Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 23
Default My Taig is Wearing Out - Upgrade Etc...

On 11/27/2010 05:48 PM, Bob La Londe wrote:
I think I have a design for a Z-axis retrofit for it all worked out, and
I have a question or request for clarification from some of you guys who
have built, retrofit, or modified your own machines. Everybody says you
need a brake on the Z-axis if you use a ballscrew or it will backdrive.


I can't speak to the necessity of a brake, but how about
counter-weighting it so there is no force required for it to stay put.
It will increase the inertial load, but that is probably less of a
problem on the Z axis.

BobH
  #2   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 347
Default My Taig is Wearing Out - Upgrade Etc...

My Taig is wearing out. I've had it for just over two years and I would
guess its seen well over 1000 hours of run time. Probably over 2000. I
should probably save my time and energy and just jerk the spindle and
steppers for a new machine, but I hate to waste it completely. Its biggest
problem since day one has always been the quality of its Z-axis.

I think I have a design for a Z-axis retrofit for it all worked out, and I
have a question or request for clarification from some of you guys who have
built, retrofit, or modified your own machines. Everybody says you need a
brake on the Z-axis if you use a ballscrew or it will backdrive. How much
force does it take to back drive? I know the answer is probably "it
depends", but I was looking for a more general answer.

A. Next to nothing. (stop driving it and the weight of the ball nut alone
will fall with no load)
B. A gentle push. (it takes some force, but the weight of the ball nut
isn't going to back drive.
C. A firm push. (you can get it moving with the ball of your thumb and
your carriage weight will definitely make it fall.)

My other thought is that with a very light weight spindle and carriage would
the power of a 380oz stepper motor be adequate to hold it in place? Then
just apply a simple relay operated friction brake or even a manual one when
the power shuts off for the motor.

Ok, upon afterthought that last part kinda answers itself. If the motor can
move the carriage adequately (steppers are rated in holding not moving
force) with out stalling under cutting load then it should have no problem
holding it while idling.

Note: A 380 oz stepper motor is a very adequate drive for most
applications. It takes real force with your hand against the table to stall
one, and you can't do it by grabbing the shaft with your thumb and
forefinger except maybe at speeds in excess of its rating.

  #3   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,581
Default My Taig is Wearing Out - Upgrade Etc...

On Sat, 27 Nov 2010 10:48:24 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

My Taig is wearing out. I've had it for just over two years and I would
guess its seen well over 1000 hours of run time. Probably over 2000. I
should probably save my time and energy and just jerk the spindle and
steppers for a new machine, but I hate to waste it completely. Its biggest
problem since day one has always been the quality of its Z-axis.


A thought, coming from a person interested in but not yet working with
CNC mills, but coming from a mechanical background: Are you
lubricating it sufficiently and frequently and is the interface
adjusted firmly/properly?

What's wearing?
a) the leadscrew and nut
b) the table and ways
c) the column and ways
d) all of the above


Note: A 380 oz stepper motor is a very adequate drive for most
applications. It takes real force with your hand against the table to stall


I've seen kits made with 185 and 270oz motors, so 380 oughta work.


one, and you can't do it by grabbing the shaft with your thumb and
forefinger except maybe at speeds in excess of its rating.


Caution Kids: Don't try this at home. (DUH!)

--
Education should provide the tools for a widening and deepening
of life, for increased appreciation of all one sees or experiences.
It should equip a person to live life well, to understand what is
happening around him, for to live life well one must live life with
awareness. -- Louis L'Amour
  #4   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,286
Default My Taig is Wearing Out - Upgrade Etc...

On Sat, 27 Nov 2010 10:48:24 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

My Taig is wearing out. I've had it for just over two years and I would
guess its seen well over 1000 hours of run time. Probably over 2000. I
should probably save my time and energy and just jerk the spindle and
steppers for a new machine, but I hate to waste it completely. Its biggest
problem since day one has always been the quality of its Z-axis.

I think I have a design for a Z-axis retrofit for it all worked out, and I
have a question or request for clarification from some of you guys who have
built, retrofit, or modified your own machines. Everybody says you need a
brake on the Z-axis if you use a ballscrew or it will backdrive. How much
force does it take to back drive? I know the answer is probably "it
depends", but I was looking for a more general answer.

A. Next to nothing. (stop driving it and the weight of the ball nut alone
will fall with no load)
B. A gentle push. (it takes some force, but the weight of the ball nut
isn't going to back drive.
C. A firm push. (you can get it moving with the ball of your thumb and
your carriage weight will definitely make it fall.)

My other thought is that with a very light weight spindle and carriage would
the power of a 380oz stepper motor be adequate to hold it in place? Then
just apply a simple relay operated friction brake or even a manual one when
the power shuts off for the motor.

Ok, upon afterthought that last part kinda answers itself. If the motor can
move the carriage adequately (steppers are rated in holding not moving
force) with out stalling under cutting load then it should have no problem
holding it while idling.

Note: A 380 oz stepper motor is a very adequate drive for most
applications. It takes real force with your hand against the table to stall
one, and you can't do it by grabbing the shaft with your thumb and
forefinger except maybe at speeds in excess of its rating.


There's not a Z brake on my knee mill machine. The Z axis is just a
quill.

Bob, if you've used the Taig this much; its time for you to move up
to something like Iggy's mill. You'll be able to make the parts in 1/4
of the time and the machine will last 20 years.

Just my two cents

Karl

  #5   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,392
Default My Taig is Wearing Out - Upgrade Etc...

Bob La Londe writes:

Everybody says you need a
brake on the Z-axis if you use a ballscrew or it will backdrive.


That makes no sense. If you have a motor controlling the axis, then the
motor provides the braking. If you are running free (manual control with a
quill lever) then your hand or the spindle lock provides the braking.

Stepper motors are neither economical or appropriate for motion control
when significant force is required as is the case for CNC metalworking.
Servomotors are the proper element. Steppers' only virtue is relative
simplicity, but this is obviated by Geckodrive controllers and the like.


  #6   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 28
Default My Taig is Wearing Out - Upgrade Etc...

On 2010-11-27, Karl Townsend wrote:

Bob, if you've used the Taig this much; its time for you to move up
to something like Iggy's mill. You'll be able to make the parts in 1/4
of the time and the machine will last 20 years.


Also may increase your general happiness!!!

i
  #7   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,746
Default My Taig is Wearing Out - Upgrade Etc...


Richard J Kinch wrote:

Bob La Londe writes:

Everybody says you need a
brake on the Z-axis if you use a ballscrew or it will backdrive.


That makes no sense. If you have a motor controlling the axis, then the
motor provides the braking. If you are running free (manual control with a
quill lever) then your hand or the spindle lock provides the braking.


It makes plenty of sense, and all the medium and larger machines
incorporate a mechanical power-to-release brake on the Z axis. Without
this, when the machine is powered off, the servo is no longer providing
a braking effect and the pneumatic or hydraulic head counterbalance is
no longer operating the head will drop down until it contacts something
to stop it, such as expensive tooling, fixtures, etc.


Stepper motors are neither economical or appropriate for motion control
when significant force is required as is the case for CNC metalworking.
Servomotors are the proper element. Steppers' only virtue is relative
simplicity, but this is obviated by Geckodrive controllers and the like.


This is simply not true. Steppers produce a lot more torque than you
apparently think, with even small 23 size units producing over 600
oz-in. Coupled with any reasonable leadscrew / ballscrew pitch that
translates into plenty of force for smaller machines. Since smaller
machines also don't have high HP spindles, the stepper drive is well
matched to the cutting rates that the spindle can handle.
  #8   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,286
Default My Taig is Wearing Out - Upgrade Etc...


Stepper motors are neither economical or appropriate for motion control
when significant force is required as is the case for CNC metalworking.
Servomotors are the proper element. Steppers' only virtue is relative
simplicity, but this is obviated by Geckodrive controllers and the like.


This is simply not true. Steppers produce a lot more torque than you
apparently think, with even small 23 size units producing over 600
oz-in. Coupled with any reasonable leadscrew / ballscrew pitch that
translates into plenty of force for smaller machines. Since smaller
machines also don't have high HP spindles, the stepper drive is well
matched to the cutting rates that the spindle can handle.


For all but the smallest machines, I also believe servos are far
superior. That 600 oz-in is 3 ft-lb, most anyone turns manual handles
harder than that. Exceed that for even a sec and the machine looses
steps and ruins the part.

Now my bias against steppers is based on bitter experience. When the
bandit control died on my knee mill, I had to go to steppers as no
cheap PC control using servos existed at that time. Even after
upgrading to high performance 2000 oz-in steppers I continually lost
steps and ruined parts. I had to make parts at 1/4 speed and watch it
like a hawk.

So, I watched eBay and bought a high dollar control for cheap. Then
put those bandit servos back on with encoders. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!
Don't know why I put up with steppers for two years.

Now today, with EMC2 well developed, it makes no sense to go stepper.
You get a free control with position feedback and a strong user base
for support.

Just my two cents.

Karl
  #9   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,344
Default My Taig is Wearing Out - Upgrade Etc...

"Bob La Londe" wrote:

I think I have a design for a Z-axis retrofit for it all worked out, and I
have a question or request for clarification from some of you guys who have
built, retrofit, or modified your own machines. Everybody says you need a
brake on the Z-axis if you use a ballscrew or it will backdrive. How much
force does it take to back drive? I know the answer is probably "it
depends", but I was looking for a more general answer.



I've worked on VMC's that used brakes and one that used a chain with pig iron for a
counter balance. See if a counter weight, simple as a pulley, cable and a balancing
weight will do. Oh, I was responsible for a waterjet cell that used an air counter
balance but it had a brake in case we lost air pressure.

Air cylinder and pressure regulator might be the easiest way to go. This isn't a danger
to life app like full sized machines.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller
  #10   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,746
Default My Taig is Wearing Out - Upgrade Etc...


Karl Townsend wrote:

Stepper motors are neither economical or appropriate for motion control
when significant force is required as is the case for CNC metalworking.
Servomotors are the proper element. Steppers' only virtue is relative
simplicity, but this is obviated by Geckodrive controllers and the like.


This is simply not true. Steppers produce a lot more torque than you
apparently think, with even small 23 size units producing over 600
oz-in. Coupled with any reasonable leadscrew / ballscrew pitch that
translates into plenty of force for smaller machines. Since smaller
machines also don't have high HP spindles, the stepper drive is well
matched to the cutting rates that the spindle can handle.


For all but the smallest machines, I also believe servos are far
superior. That 600 oz-in is 3 ft-lb, most anyone turns manual handles
harder than that. Exceed that for even a sec and the machine looses
steps and ruins the part.

Now my bias against steppers is based on bitter experience. When the
bandit control died on my knee mill, I had to go to steppers as no
cheap PC control using servos existed at that time.


When was this? EMC and Mach3 have both been around for quite a while.

Even after
upgrading to high performance 2000 oz-in steppers I continually lost
steps and ruined parts. I had to make parts at 1/4 speed and watch it
like a hawk.


It sounds like you had some tuning and/or drivetrain issues.


So, I watched eBay and bought a high dollar control for cheap. Then
put those bandit servos back on with encoders. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!
Don't know why I put up with steppers for two years.

Now today, with EMC2 well developed, it makes no sense to go stepper.
You get a free control with position feedback and a strong user base
for support.


You can go servo with position feedback with Mach3, EMC or EMC2, and
with any of them it still makes sense to use steppers for smaller
machines and particularly machines with minimal force requirements such
as plasma cutters.


  #11   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,746
Default My Taig is Wearing Out - Upgrade Etc...


Wes wrote:

"Bob La Londe" wrote:

I think I have a design for a Z-axis retrofit for it all worked out, and I
have a question or request for clarification from some of you guys who have
built, retrofit, or modified your own machines. Everybody says you need a
brake on the Z-axis if you use a ballscrew or it will backdrive. How much
force does it take to back drive? I know the answer is probably "it
depends", but I was looking for a more general answer.


I've worked on VMC's that used brakes and one that used a chain with pig iron for a
counter balance. See if a counter weight, simple as a pulley, cable and a balancing
weight will do. Oh, I was responsible for a waterjet cell that used an air counter
balance but it had a brake in case we lost air pressure.

Air cylinder and pressure regulator might be the easiest way to go. This isn't a danger
to life app like full sized machines.


Auto type gas-springs work pretty well on small machines. I use a pair
of them with a cable and pulley 2:1 ratio setup to counterbalance the
head on my cnc mini mill.
  #12   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,286
Default My Taig is Wearing Out - Upgrade Etc...


Now my bias against steppers is based on bitter experience. When the
bandit control died on my knee mill, I had to go to steppers as no
cheap PC control using servos existed at that time.


When was this? EMC and Mach3 have both been around for quite a while.



My beloved Bandit, that I had upgraded to 300K memory died in early
97. The machine was down for a whole year before I got it running with
steppers and a DOS control called AHHA. Good control for its time and
I learned a lot about refitting machines. I bought a failed Camsoft
refit of a Mazak M4 lathe in 2000 and was totally in over my head
figuring out what was done wrong so I put the servos back on the
Excello to learn Camsoft. Don't remember the exact time anymore, must
have been about March 2001 when it finally ran with servos again. I
got the M4 running in 2003 and upgraded in 2004. 2005 and 2006 and
into 2007 were spent on a hardinge CHNC that started as a pile o'
parts. 2008 I did another fella's knee mill. 2009 I started a plasma
cutter and ran into tons of other stuff and didn't finish. This
year,the kid bought a new place and asked me to get his Matsuura
running.

The times aren't perfect, but its a general summary of'my refit hobby.
The hobby is active maybe two months a year,I still have to work for a
living. And I have to fish with most of my free time. You got to have
your priorities.

Karl
  #13   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,584
Default My Taig is Wearing Out - Upgrade Etc...

On 2010-11-27, Bob La Londe wrote:
My Taig is wearing out. I've had it for just over two years and I would
guess its seen well over 1000 hours of run time. Probably over 2000. I
should probably save my time and energy and just jerk the spindle and
steppers for a new machine, but I hate to waste it completely. Its biggest
problem since day one has always been the quality of its Z-axis.


Since you are talking about a Z-axis -- I presume that you mean
the Taig mill, not the Taig lathe (which is what I have)..

I think I have a design for a Z-axis retrofit for it all worked out, and I
have a question or request for clarification from some of you guys who have
built, retrofit, or modified your own machines. Everybody says you need a
brake on the Z-axis if you use a ballscrew or it will backdrive. How much
force does it take to back drive? I know the answer is probably "it
depends", but I was looking for a more general answer.

A. Next to nothing. (stop driving it and the weight of the ball nut alone
will fall with no load)
B. A gentle push. (it takes some force, but the weight of the ball nut
isn't going to back drive.
C. A firm push. (you can get it moving with the ball of your thumb and
your carriage weight will definitely make it fall.)


Yes -- "it depends".

A ball nut on a vertical ball screw will move under its own
weight -- and accelerate rapidly.

However -- this is not counting the various frictions involved.
How good are the ways -- and how tight are the gibs? What about how the
stepper motor forces get to either the ball screw or the ball nut? (I
know that the X-axis and Z-axis on the Bridgeport BOSS-3 rotate the ball
nut around a stationary ball screw. And in the Z-axis, the ball screw
is hollow around the quill so it pushes the quill centrally on axis.

Depending on the size of the stepper motor -- it may have enough
torque just from its internal magnetism to resist the falling weight of
the Z-axis -- even with no power applied. Certainly power applied to
one pole should be sufficient to prevent motion unless something else is
seriously wrong.

My other thought is that with a very light weight spindle and carriage would
the power of a 380oz stepper motor be adequate to hold it in place? Then
just apply a simple relay operated friction brake or even a manual one when
the power shuts off for the motor.


If there are no cutting forces, probably the internal magnetic
fields will hold the motor stationary enough -- even without power.

Ok, upon afterthought that last part kinda answers itself. If the motor can
move the carriage adequately (steppers are rated in holding not moving
force) with out stalling under cutting load then it should have no problem
holding it while idling.


Yes -- and as I said above -- likely with power off, the
permanent magnet fields in at least some steppers may be sufficient to
resist the force of gravity. First off -- with no Z-axis leadscrew and
nut installed, does the weight of the head move it on the ways? If not,
you should be fine with no power one. But once cutting forces come into
play, things like the spiral of the flutes can affect how much feed is
applied to the Z-axis by the spindle. (And, of course, a left-hand
spiral would generate up forces instead of down.)

Note: A 380 oz stepper motor is a very adequate drive for most
applications. It takes real force with your hand against the table to stall
one, and you can't do it by grabbing the shaft with your thumb and
forefinger except maybe at speeds in excess of its rating.


Then probably good enough to hold the ball screws. The usual
reason for warnings about ball screws is for a manual machine where
cutting forces can back-drive the ball screw unless you have a hand on
the wheel for each axis. (Hmm ... three hands ... ??? :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
  #14   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 347
Default My Taig is Wearing Out - Upgrade Etc...

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 27 Nov 2010 10:48:24 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:


Bob, if you've used the Taig this much; its time for you to move up
to something like Iggy's mill. You'll be able to make the parts in 1/4
of the time and the machine will last 20 years.


I'm working on that.
http://www.yumabassman.com/bulletinb... 5b&mode=view

Meet Metal Nibbler Three.

Just my two cents


50,000¢ but close.



  #15   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,392
Default My Taig is Wearing Out - Upgrade Etc...

Pete C. writes:

Steppers produce a lot more torque than you
apparently think, with even small 23 size units producing over 600
oz-in. Coupled with any reasonable leadscrew / ballscrew pitch that
translates into plenty of force for smaller machines.


You confuse torque and linear force with power. Yes, you can gear up or
down to any torque you like. But power is what counts: force times distance
per time, which is to say the capacity to complete useful work when
integrated over time.

Steppers are inherently weak. Their dismal torque ratings are only
delivered at very slow speeds, which is to say, at limited power. Some
motion control tasks require little power, and steppers will do, but for
metalworking, you need power: the ability to accelerate quickly and push
rapidly against resistance.



  #16   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,286
Default My Taig is Wearing Out - Upgrade Etc...

On Sun, 28 Nov 2010 00:39:27 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 27 Nov 2010 10:48:24 -0700, "Bob La Londe"
wrote:


Bob, if you've used the Taig this much; its time for you to move up
to something like Iggy's mill. You'll be able to make the parts in 1/4
of the time and the machine will last 20 years.


I'm working on that.
http://www.yumabassman.com/bulletinb... 5b&mode=view

Meet Metal Nibbler Three.

Just my two cents


50,000¢ but close.


That's right, I remember your post. An old Hurco will be a FINE
machine.

Karl

  #17   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 347
Default My Taig is Wearing Out - Upgrade Etc...

"Richard J Kinch" wrote in message
. ..
Pete C. writes:

Steppers produce a lot more torque than you
apparently think, with even small 23 size units producing over 600
oz-in. Coupled with any reasonable leadscrew / ballscrew pitch that
translates into plenty of force for smaller machines.


You confuse torque and linear force with power. Yes, you can gear up or
down to any torque you like. But power is what counts: force times
distance
per time, which is to say the capacity to complete useful work when
integrated over time.

Steppers are inherently weak. Their dismal torque ratings are only
delivered at very slow speeds, which is to say, at limited power. Some
motion control tasks require little power, and steppers will do, but for
metalworking, you need power: the ability to accelerate quickly and push
rapidly against resistance.


Perhaps when hogging out with larger cutters, but for detail work with tiny
cutters they generate more than enough speed and "force." The trick is to
find an optimum feed, depth of cut, approach, and width of pass to get
fairly decent material removal without breaking cutters. An 1/8" or larger
cutter can crash the machine, but a 380oz stepper has enough force to break
anything smaller in a heart beat when you go for too much. For some of what
I am doing an 1/8 cutter is very large. The only time I really wish for
more force and bigger cutters is when making larger parts to modify the
machine itself like different spindle mounts or motor mounts.

When I get the Hurco going it will get to do all those big parts.







  #18   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 169
Default My Taig is Wearing Out - Upgrade Etc...


"Richard J Kinch" wrote in message
. ..
Bob La Londe writes:

Everybody says you need a
brake on the Z-axis if you use a ballscrew or it will backdrive.


That makes no sense. If you have a motor controlling the axis, then the
motor provides the braking. If you are running free (manual control with
a
quill lever) then your hand or the spindle lock provides the braking.

Stepper motors are neither economical or appropriate for motion control
when significant force is required as is the case for CNC metalworking.
Servomotors are the proper element. Steppers' only virtue is relative
simplicity, but this is obviated by Geckodrive controllers and the like.


I think that steppers have a place in CNC mills used for metalworking so
long as an appropriate system design target and approach is used. They've
been working fine for me during the past 3 years or so on an 1100-lb
commercial mill. No lost steps that I'm aware of.

  #19   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,148
Default My Taig is Wearing Out - Upgrade Etc...

On 11/27/2010 11:48 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
My Taig is wearing out. I've had it for just over two years and I would
guess its seen well over 1000 hours of run time. Probably over 2000. I
should probably save my time and energy and just jerk the spindle and
steppers for a new machine, but I hate to waste it completely. Its
biggest problem since day one has always been the quality of its Z-axis.

I think I have a design for a Z-axis retrofit for it all worked out, and
I have a question or request for clarification from some of you guys who
have built, retrofit, or modified your own machines. Everybody says you
need a brake on the Z-axis if you use a ballscrew or it will backdrive.
How much force does it take to back drive? I know the answer is probably
"it depends", but I was looking for a more general answer.

I have put a ballscrew on a minimill (I think equivalent to and X2) and
have had no problems with it dropping when power is off. This is with a
servo, even, not a stepper. So, I would not worry about this with a
reasonably fine thread pitch. If you do it with a 2 TPI ballscrew, then
it could be a problem.

You can use springs to reduce the weight of the Z to help the motor.

Jon
  #20   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,148
Default My Taig is Wearing Out - Upgrade Etc...

On 11/27/2010 02:27 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:

Bob, if you've used the Taig this much; its time for you to move up
to something like Iggy's mill. You'll be able to make the parts in 1/4
of the time and the machine will last 20 years.

twenty years? Hmmm, MY Bridgeport was made in 1938, and was in a
production shop for the aerospace industry until about 1982. So, that's
44 years of real production, and then 28 years of lighter use.
Yes, it has detectable wear in the X and Z slides, but it is really not
that bad, yet. One of these days I'd like to scrape the ways, but I
can't afford to have it out of service for 9 months or more. So, I just
use it.

Jon


  #21   Report Post  
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 347
Default My Taig is Wearing Out - Upgrade Etc...

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
news
The times aren't perfect, but its a general summary of'my refit hobby.
The hobby is active maybe two months a year,I still have to work for a
living. And I have to fish with most of my free time. You got to have
your priorities.



Missed that the first time. Fishing definitely cuts into my time for
playing in the shop too. In fact I need to go re-spool a couple flipping
sticks right now.

Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Any Taig Wizards Bob La Londe Metalworking 3 April 18th 09 03:15 AM
Taig Mill T-Slot Size [email protected] Metalworking 1 March 24th 06 06:44 AM
Taig Mill Spindle Removal Terry Metalworking 2 June 15th 05 09:53 PM
taig mill Cliff Metalworking 0 February 28th 05 10:14 AM
UK suppliers (Taig Mill) Tim Auton Metalworking 12 July 29th 04 06:56 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 07:48 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"