Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default DB connectors

On 11/04/2010 10:32 PM, Wild_Bill wrote:
The typical sub-D contacts that I'm familiar with use a different
crimper than described, Tim.

Typical contacts for commercial grade sub-D connectors are similar to
Molex contacts, but much smaller.. but they also have two sets of tabs
that form U shapes, one where the stripped wire gets crimped, and the
second set for gripping the wire's insulation.

The cross-section of the crimp area for the wire looks like the tabs
rolled in to form someting like a 3 with a radius at the opening of the 3.
The better quality crimpers will be compound-action types with
ratcheting mechanisms to insure a full cycle, and numerous brands are
good ones.. AMP, Black Box, Sargent, etc (all made in U.S.A.).

A simple scissor-type crimp tool will likely produce inconsistent
crimps.. some may be OK, others may separate from the wire or be loosely
crimped to the wire strands.

The crimper you described is generally for (fully round) machined
contacts with heavier wall thicknesses, as used in high reliability
avionics-type or aircraft circular connectors, but also used in higher
quality sub-D connectors.
Those crimpers sorta resemble a Buchanan splice crimper with an
extension tube protruding from one side (Daniels tool, etc).
The higher quality contacts are much better quality that typical
commercial grade contacts which are stamped and formed from thin sheet
brass.

You're definitely correct about not crushing the crimp areas with an
incorrect tool, as the widening of the contact will interfere with
proper installation, and the contacts are supposed to somewhat float in
the connector bodies, but have good alignment.

For myself, soldering pre-assembled connectors is quicker than crimping,
and a proper soldering job should be more reliable than crimping for
someone that doesn't have some crimping experience, and definitely more
reliable than trying to improvise a good crimp without the proper crimp
tool.


Heh -- I was unaware of the other option, most of the time that I've
spent in the presence of crimped connections has been at an aerospace
company.

Soldering is the way to go if you don't want to sign up for proper
tools. I think if I were doing the job all day, and had the right set
up, that I'd be faster crimping than soldering. But you need all those
special tools.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Do you need to implement control loops in software?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you.
See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html
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James Waldby wrote:

Links about soldering cable connectors -- containing both good
and bad advice --
http://www.matronics.com/aeroelectric/articles/dsubs/d_solder.html

That one's close, but I don't like his pictures. This one has much better
pictures:
http://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp...er%20Cups.html

And, to the original poster - it's really not that hard. There's nothing to
be afraid of - just keep your tip clean and tinned, and get a sponge sponge
if possible.

Go for it! It'll be fun!

Cheers!
Rich

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Karl Townsend wrote:
On Thu, 04 Nov 2010 18:54:04 -0700, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On 11/04/2010 04:44 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:
On Thu, 04 Nov 2010 12:19:48 -0700, Tim
wrote:

On 11/03/2010 06:51 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:
I need to make up connectors like you see on the back of a computer.
My servo amps have a couple 2 row 15 pin, a 2 row 25 pin, and a 3 row
26 pin places to connect.

I'm seeing a bewildering number of possibilities in digikey. FWIW the
connector plug I'm after is similar to this pictu
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...name=A32073-ND

or digikey part A32073-ND. I'm not after this part, just trying to
show the connector.

I'm not at all good at soldering in tight places. I much prefer
something that can be made up by crimping. I have a Molex type crimp
tool.

can someone suggest a good series of parts for this?
Crimpers for those things need to be high quality, and the decent ones
cost $$$.
I guess I'll find out. I plan to crimp them with whatever I can come
up with and then solder before inserting. Total cost was under $20 so
I'm not out much if it don't work. Plan "B" would be to hire the job
out and get the solder type.

The pins have a round barrel into which you insert the wire. The
crimper pushes four hardened pins into the barrel, dimpling it and
pressing it onto the wire. Tres fancy. Because the barrel of the pin
extends down into the hole in the housing you can't just crimp it by
crushing it -- you have to do something that'll make it grip the wire
without deforming it to the point where it won't go into its hole.

(I think the barrel is relieved where the crimper dimples it, so any
little 'outies' don't interfere with putting it into the housing).

How far out in the boonies are you? Any electronics place that deals
with DB connectors has a chance at having the crimper; if there's a
contract cable assembly guy near you he'd probably be happy to make them up.

Note: I'd solder them myself, but I solder all the time. If I had to
hire it done I'd either make damn sure the guy understood crimped DB
connections, or I'd hire a kid to do the soldering and I'd stand over
him for the first few connectors to make sure they were right. If I
made more than 10 cables a year I'd probably buy a crimper -- but I make
less than 1, on average.


Thanks for the info. i can duplicate that easily. I'll drill a hole in
scrap stock to hold the pin. Then a cross hole to hold a center punch.
Put wire and pin in there and give it a slight whack for an indent.
Then solder it.

karl



Just solder them, Karl.

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Richard wrote:
Karl Townsend wrote:
On Thu, 04 Nov 2010 18:54:04 -0700, Tim Wescott
wrote:

On 11/04/2010 04:44 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:
On Thu, 04 Nov 2010 12:19:48 -0700, Tim
wrote:

On 11/03/2010 06:51 PM, Karl Townsend wrote:
I need to make up connectors like you see on the back of a computer.
My servo amps have a couple 2 row 15 pin, a 2 row 25 pin, and a 3 row
26 pin places to connect.

I'm seeing a bewildering number of possibilities in digikey. FWIW the
connector plug I'm after is similar to this pictu
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...name=A32073-ND


or digikey part A32073-ND. I'm not after this part, just trying to
show the connector.

I'm not at all good at soldering in tight places. I much prefer
something that can be made up by crimping. I have a Molex type crimp
tool.

can someone suggest a good series of parts for this?
Crimpers for those things need to be high quality, and the decent ones
cost $$$.
I guess I'll find out. I plan to crimp them with whatever I can come
up with and then solder before inserting. Total cost was under $20 so
I'm not out much if it don't work. Plan "B" would be to hire the job
out and get the solder type.
The pins have a round barrel into which you insert the wire. The
crimper pushes four hardened pins into the barrel, dimpling it and
pressing it onto the wire. Tres fancy. Because the barrel of the
pin extends down into the hole in the housing you can't just crimp it
by crushing it -- you have to do something that'll make it grip the
wire without deforming it to the point where it won't go into its hole.

(I think the barrel is relieved where the crimper dimples it, so any
little 'outies' don't interfere with putting it into the housing).

How far out in the boonies are you? Any electronics place that deals
with DB connectors has a chance at having the crimper; if there's a
contract cable assembly guy near you he'd probably be happy to make
them up.

Note: I'd solder them myself, but I solder all the time. If I had to
hire it done I'd either make damn sure the guy understood crimped DB
connections, or I'd hire a kid to do the soldering and I'd stand over
him for the first few connectors to make sure they were right. If I
made more than 10 cables a year I'd probably buy a crimper -- but I
make less than 1, on average.


Thanks for the info. i can duplicate that easily. I'll drill a hole in
scrap stock to hold the pin. Then a cross hole to hold a center punch.
Put wire and pin in there and give it a slight whack for an indent.
Then solder it.

karl



Just solder them, Karl.


I might add - solder tail connectors.
No pins to fiddle with.

http://parts.digikey.sg/1/1/572331-c...5-202r001.html
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Most High tech companies crimped. We had massive heavy duty trays
like tool boxes - but bigger - a hole 6' tall of various size of crimps.

If you solder - try not to get to much solder wicking up into the wire
as it will stiffen that point of entry and might make it hard to put on
the shell or become brittle of sorts - and crack there.

NASA and high tech companies use 'anti-skating' tools - a pliers with
a small split tube that is drilled out for the wire and also the
insulation. A perfect fit is made - clamp on - solder - the pliers or
clamp cools the wire and insulator (plastic) and prevents it from
wicking solder or making a nasty shaped / colored insulator plastic.
Normally low grade metal - e.g. pot metal - easy to drill and fit.

Martin

On 11/5/2010 1:47 PM, Tim Wescott wrote:
snip

Heh -- I was unaware of the other option, most of the time that I've
spent in the presence of crimped connections has been at an aerospace
company.

Soldering is the way to go if you don't want to sign up for proper
tools. I think if I were doing the job all day, and had the right set
up, that I'd be faster crimping than soldering. But you need all those
special tools.



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Martin Eastburn wrote:

Most High tech companies crimped. We had massive heavy duty trays
like tool boxes - but bigger - a hole 6' tall of various size of crimps.

If you solder - try not to get to much solder wicking up into the wire
as it will stiffen that point of entry and might make it hard to put on
the shell or become brittle of sorts - and crack there.

NASA and high tech companies use 'anti-skating' tools - a pliers with
a small split tube that is drilled out for the wire and also the
insulation. A perfect fit is made - clamp on - solder - the pliers or
clamp cools the wire and insulator (plastic) and prevents it from
wicking solder or making a nasty shaped / colored insulator plastic.
Normally low grade metal - e.g. pot metal - easy to drill and fit.

Martin

On 11/5/2010 1:47 PM, Tim Wescott wrote:
snip

Heh -- I was unaware of the other option, most of the time that I've
spent in the presence of crimped connections has been at an aerospace
company.

Soldering is the way to go if you don't want to sign up for proper
tools. I think if I were doing the job all day, and had the right set
up, that I'd be faster crimping than soldering. But you need all those
special tools.



We used AMP air powered crimping machines. They used more air than
anything else in the factory.


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enough left over to pay them.
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On 2010-11-06, Martin Eastburn wrote:
Most High tech companies crimped. We had massive heavy duty trays
like tool boxes - but bigger - a hole 6' tall of various size of crimps.

If you solder - try not to get to much solder wicking up into the wire
as it will stiffen that point of entry and might make it hard to put on
the shell or become brittle of sorts - and crack there.


Yes -- the anti-wicking tweezers prevent this and allow some
multi-stranded flex between the back of the connector and the start of
the insulation. That reduces (but does not eliminate) vibration induced
failure. (Individual heat-shrink sleeving over the back of solder-pot
pins and the insulation will help greatly.)

NASA and high tech companies use 'anti-skating' tools - a pliers with
a small split tube that is drilled out for the wire and also the
insulation.


Anti-Wicking tweezers.

Vibration induced failure is a lot more expensive to fix if the
device is in space at the time of failure. :-)

A perfect fit is made - clamp on - solder - the pliers or
clamp cools the wire and insulator (plastic) and prevents it from
wicking solder or making a nasty shaped / colored insulator plastic.
Normally low grade metal - e.g. pot metal - easy to drill and fit.


The ones which I have mostly seen are tweezers with what looks
like a bullet shape between the tips. It splits in half, and has a
small hole at the small end to heat-sink the wire, and a larger hole
concentric with that in the rest of the "bullet" to support the
insulation, and to set a specific length of uninsulated wire after the
end of the insulation and before the solder.

I do have one pair which are not as elaborate -- a pair of plates
on the tips with just a wire diameter hole through the join. It
accomplishes the same task -- but does not support the insulation during
the soldering.

Enjoy,
DoN.

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On 2010-11-05, Karl Townsend wrote:
On 5 Nov 2010 05:42:03 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"


[ ... ]

AMP makes nice ones for individual wire crimp terminals, but the
size of the crimp is different from the Molex crimpers which I have
seen. There are very good crimpers from AMP for the purpose (go to eBay
for reasonable prices, or be sitting down for the new prices), and cheap
ones also from AMP which are not as good. (The good ones crimp double
flag pins -- one for the wire and another for supporting the insulation.
The cheap crimper crimps one set of flags at a time, and you then have
to flip it over to crimp the other half.

If you're really interested in the good crimpers -- ask and I'll
look up the number on mine. It has a nest to hold the pin in the right
position for the crimping as well.

Tycho is the current name for AMP connectors.


But most eBay auctions will be using the AMP name, because they
will be for crimpers made before the change. :-)

[ ... ]

can someone suggest a good series of parts for this?


Some possibilities above -- depending on which style of crimp
you need.

Good Luck,
DoN.


DoN, I've only got four pins to connect so the ribbon option is out.
This is a one time job so I don't want to spend a fortune. I'd like to
buy the tool on eBay, if you wouldn't mind pointing out the correct
tool.


O.K. It looks as though the one which I found on eBay for the
flag style terminals is the right one, based on checking the number on
mine.

It is a 90312-1, and IIRC was going for about $28.00 on eBay
last night. (A *very* good price for the tool.)

The crimp notch marked 28-24 is for the blue dot marked pins
(male and female) for the D series connectors.

The crimp notch marked 24-20 is for the red dot marked pins.

I rubbed blue and red paint into the stamped markings for the
sizes so I would remember which was which.

An example (with a Mouser part number) for one (female, 28-24 ga
wire -- blue dot) is 571-665059 for the female pins. This should get
you to the right page in the catalog to find the others. Digi-Key
number for the same pin is 800 344-5339. (I happen to have bags of pins
from both sources in the same bin in the hinged-lidded drawer.)

Sometimes I buy the pins from one or the other -- sometimes I
buy a bag full at a hamfest. Depends on luck. I like to keep quite a
few pins handy for emergency need.

The cheap one which crimps one set of flags at a time is
AMP(Tycho) part number 29004-1. That one you would probably get from
Mouser or DigiKey.

The fancy crimper (made by Daniels) for the machined terminals
has AMP's part number 601966-1, and Daniels' part number M22520/2-01

The bushing nest in it at the moment is marked M22520/2-08, but
IIRC, that was for a pin made by Canon, not AMP. It has a table on its
label which shows which setting for the black crimp depth dial should be
used for each different size of wire.

I've got a data sheet which shows which size of gauge pins to
use for checking each setting. (Just in case you wind up with one. The
auction last night was at about $55.00 IIRC -- not counting the
necessary bushing nest.

Sel # Go No-Go
======================
1 0.0130 0.0180
2 0.0160 0.0210
3 0.0190 0.0240
4 0.0220 0.0270
5 0.0260 0.0310
6 0.0300 0.0350
7 0.0340 0.0390
8 0.0390 0.0440

See my other response to your other post.


Check the number in *my* other post from last night to make sure
that the number on the crimper was 90312-1. If so -- go for it. Then
e-mail me with questions about how the pins should be oriented when
crimping.

Good Luck,
DoN.

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On 2010-11-05, Karl Townsend wrote:
...
Some possibilities above -- depending on which style of crimp
you need.

Good Luck,
DoN.


DoN, I've only got four pins to connect so the ribbon option is out.
This is a one time job so I don't want to spend a fortune. I'd like to
buy the tool on eBay, if you wouldn't mind pointing out the correct
tool.

See my other response to your other post.

Karl


DoN, I've been surfing for crimp tool and found this:
http://www.dataaccessories.com/dsub.html

The pins sure look like a molex type to me on the page. Anyway, I'll
pop for $50 if this solves my little problem.


They are smaller than the Molex pins -- so your existing crimper
won't do. But the one which I found on eBay last night (and just
confirmed by looking at my crimper tonight in the previous article) is
the right one.

Looks as though you can get the pins in as few as 100 per page
for $9.50.

You also want the T3001 insertion/extraction tool. The copper
colored end (red handle) is for insertion, the silver colored end (white
handle) is for extraction. It is split and will pass over the wire to
reach down and release the pin from the grip of the connector body.

I'm not sure about the T3002 crimp tool however. It looks
pretty cheap, but might do what you need. Hmm ... $42.50! Go for the
eBay one - it is much better, and only around $28.00 last night (well
under $29.00 at least). (I didn't bookmark the auction, so I'm not sure
whether the price is still valid.) Try for that first, at least.

I see the 9-pin, 15-pin, 25-pin, 37-pin and 50-pin (most
mis-named with "DB" at the beginning. This is correct only for the DB25
(the 'B' is for the size of the shell. "DA" is the 15-pin, "DB" is the
common 25-pin which caused all the confusion, "DC" is the 37-pin, "DD"
is the 50-pin, and "DE" is the 9-pin (it got named after the others had
been in production for a while, which is why it is out of sequence. :-)

The prices on the connectors look pretty good. (Actually *very*
good.)

You'll still want to get backshells for them of some flavor.
What flavor may depend on the style of wire you are feeding into it.

Good Luck,
DoN.

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....
The prices on the connectors look pretty good. (Actually *very*
good.)

You'll still want to get backshells for them of some flavor.
What flavor may depend on the style of wire you are feeding into it.

Good Luck,
DoN.


Thanks DoN. Let me win a crimper auction and then see the mouser
parts. I'll confer with you BEFORE making another move.

Karl






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Crikey.. even if Karl isn't near a city, he could've taken a bus to where
there is one of those Shack stores, and gotten enough sub-D parts (and
crimper, insert/extraction halfassed tools) for some of his connectors,
certainly enough for some tests.
Or.. even pre-assembled, insulated jumper leads,
Or.. bought pre-assembled sub-D cables from various sources, cut them in
half (two connecting cables from one) and spliced them in with wire nuts,
which require very little skill.

Instead of having someone solder for him, Karl should pay someone to teach
him how to solder properly, and then he would know something worthwhile that
will be of real use for himself in the future.
Folks with an "I can't learn" attitude deserve to fail.

I learned basic soldering in junior high school (sheetmetal and circuit
board), so attaining the skill of soldering isn't difficult.
Flame heated soldering coppers for sheetmetal.. not even as simple as using
a big several-hundred watt electric iron or a Weller soldering gun.

This present situation is what I was saying a couple of weeks ago.. several
users that post in RCM make the simplest tasks so GD dramatic.

They ask for help, then do some stupid **** that they guess is a solution,
so they look even more helpless/needy.. what a fuctup game.
And this fairly simple task hasn't even gotten started yet.

And in another week or so, they'll have another immediate CRISIS that they
just need a little help with.

He goes on to claim that he may learn from his mistakes.. signs of that
transformation don't seem to be present.

Karl.. find those spare backup motors yet?

This kind of electrical stuff isn't difficult unless you make it that way.

I recently gained the knowledge needed to properly fabricate some mil-spec
avionics connectors which I had no previous experience with, so I do know
what I'm talking about.
Some research time was involved, but time well spent, and expected.

--
WB
..........


"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
...

DAMNIT!!!

I should have waited to hear from you. The school of hard knocks is a
good teacher 'cause you seldom forget the lesson.

I'll go back and try for the eBay auctions you suggested.

I "had" hoped to complete this little task quickly so I could test run
the servos. Not going to happen now.

Looking at your other posts, it looks like I still need to buy pins. I
thought the mouser offer had everything i needed for one connection -
wrong again.

OK, let me get the right crimper and see the mouser shipment. Then,
I'll double check with you on what else I need.

Thanks for all your excellent advice.

Karl


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I just recently became aware of the high quality machined contacts for sub-D
connectors.
It turns out that the contacts' part numbers are the same as the contacts
used in some of the circular Amphenol, Bendix, Matrix etc connectors, such
as those utilized by aerospace avionics equipment.

Hand crimping can get old fast even with quality hand tools. Making a
fixture that can allow the hand crimper to be bench mounted would be a bit
easier, having only to swing one handle instead of repeatedly squeezing
handles together.
Also, having a surface to rest the "feed" hand on allow for easier placement
of the contact and the wire end.

I've worked in instrument assembly fabrication, and even with a foot
switch-actuated AMP terminating machine, it's fairly monotonous. I remember
the lighting fixture on that machine didn't help to see the termination area
behind a clear safety shield.

I'm quite sure that soldering the PT06 type circular connectors with their
fixed position, exposed solder cups is a lot easier than poking terminated
rear-loaded wires into empty connector bodies with environmental sealing.

An organized work area is paramount to frustration-free assembly of most any
multi-contact, miniature connector. The manufacturers' manuals may contain
the info regarding a secure holder for the connector, and logical direction
to install the wires.. but I found that very good lighting, a magnifier lamp
and an enlarged drawing with clearly marked hole designations makes assembly
fairly easy and very likely mistake-proof.

Having an adjustable holder or some other arrangement to support the wires
while having the prepped ends held near the connector is a major convenience
and prevents disruptions.

If I ever needed to do a lot of connector wiring, I have hot wire strippers,
resistance soldering and conventional soldering stations and a wide variety
of hand crimpers, but I'd prefer to solder wires to contacts whenever the
wire bundles have the neccessary support/strain relief to prevent vibration
fatigue.
Crimping generally has more significance when power connectors carry more
current.

--
WB
..........


"Tim Wescott" wrote in message
...

Heh -- I was unaware of the other option, most of the time that I've spent
in the presence of crimped connections has been at an aerospace company.

Soldering is the way to go if you don't want to sign up for proper tools.
I think if I were doing the job all day, and had the right set up, that
I'd be faster crimping than soldering. But you need all those special
tools.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Do you need to implement control loops in software?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" was written for you.
See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html


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Your email server rejected me. so, we'll stay here.

Karl
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On Nov 4, 4:44*pm, Karl Townsend
wrote:
On Thu, 04 Nov 2010 12:19:48 -0700, Tim Wescott
wrote:


I'm not at all good at soldering in tight places. I much prefer
something that can be made up by crimping. I have a Molex type crimp
tool.


can someone suggest a good series of parts for this?


Crimpers for those things need to be high quality, and the decent ones
cost $$$.


I guess I'll find out. I plan to crimp them with whatever I can come
up with and then solder before inserting. Total cost was under $20 so
I'm not out much if it don't work. Plan "B" would be to hire the job
out and get the solder type.


Crimping is VERY RELIABLE and soldering doesn't help (in fact,
the crimp terminals are too easy to solder; adding solder can easily
make them the wrong shape to fit). The crimp requirement, though,
is a good fitting crimp tool AND the exact stranded-wire size range.

Exactly what size IS the stranded wire you're using?

With a Molex crimp tool, you will want to use only Molex crimp pins,
and shells. It might take a magnifier to seat the pin in the crimper
correctly, and to get the wire in the hole just right...
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whit3rd wrote:

Crimping is VERY RELIABLE and soldering doesn't help (in fact,
the crimp terminals are too easy to solder; adding solder can easily
make them the wrong shape to fit).



People need to learn that you don't need a huge blob of solder. Take
a look at a surface mount IC to see just how little it takes. The big
problem is most people use cheap crap solder, and the wrong heat. Then
they cheap out even more and don't use a drop of mild RMA flux.


--
Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.


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Default DB connectors

In article ,
James Waldby wrote:

On Fri, 05 Nov 2010 06:49:29 -0500, Karl Townsend wrote:
Karl Townsend wrote:
DoN wrote:

...
Some possibilities above -- depending on which style of crimp
you need.


DoN, I've only got four pins to connect so the ribbon option is out.
This is a one time job so I don't want to spend a fortune. I'd like to
buy the tool on eBay, if you wouldn't mind pointing out the correct
tool.

...
DoN, I've been surfing for crimp tool and found this:
http://www.dataaccessories.com/dsub.html

The pins sure look like a molex type to me on the page. Anyway, I'll pop
for $50 if this solves my little problem.


The T3002 D-Sub Crimp Tool (last item at that link) probably is what
DoN referred to as a "scissors type" crimp tool. IIRC, he suggested
it won't work well in comparison with Daniels or AMP crimpers when
they are used with correct pins. (Daniels are in several current
ebay auctions, eg 150511878340 and 190461084132.)

Anyhow, to the point. I have a crimp tool like T3002 and male and
female pins like are sold at the link, plus DB9 and DB25 shells for
same and have had bad luck with them. For example, loose wires in
crimp, pins not retained in shell, bent pins.

For the few cables and low pin-counts you've mentioned, try solder
cup connectors. Sacrifice half a dozen connectors for soldering
practice -- eg make up several short gender changers and jumpers or
test sets. Slide inch-long pieces of 1/10" heat shrink tubing onto
each wire before connecting it, and some 1/4" over all the wires,
also before connecting. See links below for details.

What gauge are the wires? How long is each of them? Do you
need to terminate the wires in place, or can you string a
pre-constructed cable? Do you know what kind of signal the
wires carry? (Eg, servo voltage or current, switch closures,
pulse train, serial RS232/422/488)

Links about soldering cable connectors -- containing both good
and bad advice --
http://www.matronics.com/aeroelectric/articles/dsubs/d_solder.html
http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/xlr_cable.html
http://www.gearslutz.com/board/geeks...ering-tips.htm
l
http://www.controlbooth.com/forums/s...dering-xlr.htm
l


The classic solution to soldering connector pins in place, where access
to inner pins is difficult, is resistance soldering. The "iron" looks
like a big tweezer. Clamp the solder cup, press the foot switch, feed
the solder by hand. The tweezer passes a large current through the cup,
heating it. The tweezer itself does not get hot, so adjacent wires are
not melted.

Here is an example:
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=7090010.


Joe Gwinn
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