I have a model 900 with the arbor sticking out both sides of the
motor. A former owner installed some sort of home made spindle on the
right hand arbor and I can't get it unscrewed. The left side arbor is
open and has right hand threads. I want to confirm that the right
hand arbor is also has right handed threads, othewise I've been trying
to tighten the accessory spindle on the right side.

RWL

On 2010-07-23, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane wrote:
I have a model 900 with the arbor sticking out both sides of the
motor. A former owner installed some sort of home made spindle on the
right hand arbor and I can't get it unscrewed. The left side arbor is
open and has right hand threads. I want to confirm that the right
hand arbor is also has right handed threads, othewise I've been trying
to tighten the accessory spindle on the right side.

I would expect it to be the opposite handedness so the
acceleration of the motor does not loosen the nut.

But I have no personal experience with a K.O. Lee.

Can you see enough of the threads (perhaps with a magnifier) to
be sure what direction it goes -- or are the threads totally covered by
the adaptor?

Good Luck,
DoN.

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open and has right hand threads. I want to confirm that the right
hand arbor is also has right handed threads, othewise I've been trying
to tighten the accessory spindle on the right side.



I would expect it to be the opposite handedness so the
acceleration of the motor does not loosen the nut.

But I have no personal experience with a K.O. Lee.

Can you see enough of the threads (perhaps with a magnifier) to
be sure what direction it goes -- or are the threads totally covered by
the adaptor?

Unfortunately, I can't see the threads on the right end. I'm
suspecting that they're right hand threads since the left hand side
where you normally expect to have left hand threads is right handed.
The motor is reversible and the shafts have a keyway with a washer
with a tooth in it to keep it from rotating.

RWL

On 23 Jul 2010 02:41:27 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2010-07-23, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane wrote:
I have a model 900 with the arbor sticking out both sides of the
motor. A former owner installed some sort of home made spindle on the
right hand arbor and I can't get it unscrewed. The left side arbor is
open and has right hand threads. I want to confirm that the right
hand arbor is also has right handed threads, othewise I've been trying
to tighten the accessory spindle on the right side.

I would expect it to be the opposite handedness so the
acceleration of the motor does not loosen the nut.

But I have no personal experience with a K.O. Lee.

Can you see enough of the threads (perhaps with a magnifier) to
be sure what direction it goes -- or are the threads totally covered by
the adaptor?

Good Luck,
DoN.

My KO Lee 300 has opposite threads on each side.

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

On 2010-07-23, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane wrote:

[ ... ]

Can you see enough of the threads (perhaps with a magnifier) to
be sure what direction it goes -- or are the threads totally covered by
the adaptor?

Unfortunately, I can't see the threads on the right end. I'm
suspecting that they're right hand threads since the left hand side
where you normally expect to have left hand threads is right handed.
The motor is reversible and the shafts have a keyway with a washer
with a tooth in it to keep it from rotating.

O.K. That makes right-hand threads pretty likely.

How much mass does the adaptor have? Is it possible that
someone started with it several turns loose on the spindle and turned on
the motor? That could rather firmly wedge it in place.

Enjoy,
DoN.

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How much mass does the adaptor have? Is it possible that
someone started with it several turns loose on the spindle and turned on
the motor? That could rather firmly wedge it in place.

I have no idea. The mass isn't that great, but I imagine turning on
the motor would indeed wedge it pretty tightly. It's also possible
that the previous owner Loc-tited the adapter on.

My problem at the moment is getting something that will grab the 2"
dia. flange on each end of the spindle without slipping. (the adapter
also has that 2" dia flange) I tried cutting a 2" hole in a 2x4 and
clamping one of those on each end like two wrenches, but the 2x4's
slip. I'm temporarily "gluing" the 2x4's on with rosin and alcohol
and hope that that grabs enough that I can put some torque on the
adapter.

RWL

On Thu, 22 Jul 2010 21:51:03 -0700, Gunner Asch

My KO Lee 300 has opposite threads on each side.

Gunner

Does it have a keyway on the arbor like the Model 900?

RWL

On Fri, 23 Jul 2010 23:40:39 -0400, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane at
PTD dot NET wrote:



How much mass does the adaptor have? Is it possible that
someone started with it several turns loose on the spindle and turned on
the motor? That could rather firmly wedge it in place.

I have no idea. The mass isn't that great, but I imagine turning on
the motor would indeed wedge it pretty tightly. It's also possible
that the previous owner Loc-tited the adapter on.

My problem at the moment is getting something that will grab the 2"
dia. flange on each end of the spindle without slipping. (the adapter
also has that 2" dia flange) I tried cutting a 2" hole in a 2x4 and
clamping one of those on each end like two wrenches, but the 2x4's
slip. I'm temporarily "gluing" the 2x4's on with rosin and alcohol
and hope that that grabs enough that I can put some torque on the
adapter.

RWL

(pssst.... you didnt hear this from me..I repair machinery...but if you
take one wheel off..you can put a pipe wrench on the shaft and it will
hold pretty good while you struggle with the other nut)


I dont know what to tell you buddy.

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

On Fri, 23 Jul 2010 23:42:23 -0400, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane at
PTD dot NET wrote:

On Thu, 22 Jul 2010 21:51:03 -0700, Gunner Asch

My KO Lee 300 has opposite threads on each side.

Gunner

Does it have a keyway on the arbor like the Model 900?

RWL

No. If it has a keyway..then there has to be some sort of a nut to hold
the adaptor that uses the key.

Sounds like you need The TOOL. WHich on many surface grinders etc
etc..is a pin spanner or clutch spanner that holds the adapter while
you break the nut off.


Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

My problem at the moment is getting something that will grab the 2"
dia. flange on each end of the spindle without slipping.

RWL


(pssst.... you didnt hear this from me..I repair machinery...but if you
take one wheel off..you can put a pipe wrench on the shaft and it will
hold pretty good while you struggle with the other nut)


Gunner

I don't know if you were pulling my leg or not. I tried a file on
them to see if they were hardened. If they were, a pipe wrench would
be safe, but they're soft, so I'm trying to hold them without marring
the spindle's flanges. The rosin "glue" didn't work to make the 2x4
"wrenches" tight enough.

Maybe the side with the adapter is loc-tited on. How hot do you have
to heat lock tite to loosen it? Can you do it with a heat gun or must
you use a torch? Do you have to turn it hot because the loc-tite
hardens again when it cools, or can you wait till the metal's cool
enough to handle?

RWL

My KO Lee 300 has opposite threads on each side.

Gunner
.....................................

Does it have a keyway on the arbor like the Model 900?

RWL
.....................................

No. If it has a keyway..then there has to be some sort of a nut to hold
the adaptor that uses the key.

Sounds like you need The TOOL. WHich on many surface grinders etc
etc..is a pin spanner or clutch spanner that holds the adapter while
you break the nut off.


Gunner
................................

I think I need to upload some pix. I don't think I'm describing it
well enough for you to envision it
I'll post a link when I have them up.

RWL

Sounds like you need The TOOL. WHich on many surface grinders etc
etc..is a pin spanner or clutch spanner that holds the adapter while
you break the nut off.

I've come to the conclusion I'm going to need a special tool too -
that pin spanner you mentioned. Not sure how to lock the right side
so that the flange can be unscrewed from the spindle. I ASSume it's
screwed on and not pressed on, and I don't know if either or both are
right hand threads or left hand threads. I was hoping someone here
might have replaced the bearings on one of these critters and would
know how to get the flanges off.

I uploaded the photos.

Here's an overview of the head I'm talking about. The head is a model
B923A. I'm not sure why, but the right hand flange is intentionally
about 1.5" farther from the motor than the left side. The former
owner put that brass collar on and it doesn't fit the banjo for the
wheel guards and I want to remove that - preferably without cutting it
off.
http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/x...eadCloseup.jpg


Here's a closeup of the right side showing the two holes in the face
of the flange. The circumference of the flange looks rough, but
that's the rosin I had wetted with alcohol to temporarily "glue" it to
the wood. The metal is still smooth and unmarred.
http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/x...attachment.jpg


Here's what I meant by trying to use 2x4's as wrenches. Even with
rosin on the circumference of the flanges, I couldn't get the wood to
grip tight enough to unscrew the flanges.
http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/x...x4wrenches.jpg

The flanges are soft, so I hated to mar the circumference with a pipe
wrench. I had tried putting a band clamp / hose clamp on the outer
surfaces and then gripping the circumference with pipe wrenches, but
no go. The pipe wrenches on hose clamps was actually the first thing
I tried before going to the wooden wrenches, but I hadn't thought to
hit the flange with Kroil before I did that, so it might be worth a
second try that way.

RWL

On 2010-07-24, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane wrote:

[ ... ]

Maybe the side with the adapter is loc-tited on. How hot do you have
to heat lock tite to loosen it? Can you do it with a heat gun or must
you use a torch? Do you have to turn it hot because the loc-tite
hardens again when it cools, or can you wait till the metal's cool
enough to handle?

From my experience -- you have to turn it hot.

Yes, a heat gun is satisfactory.

Assuming that you are *sure* which direction it turns, apply
torque while heating, and it will start moving smoothly when it gets hot
enough.

As for those split 2-4s -- can you make some split aluminum ones
instead -- cross drill through the split, and tap the far side so you
can clamp it firmly with a bolt.

I suspect that when it cools back down it will not be as strong
as it was, but still be difficult to move depending on just how heavy a
version of LocTite it is.

Good Luck,
DoN.

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On Sat, 24 Jul 2010 21:44:41 -0400, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane at
PTD dot NET wrote:



Sounds like you need The TOOL. WHich on many surface grinders etc
etc..is a pin spanner or clutch spanner that holds the adapter while
you break the nut off.

I've come to the conclusion I'm going to need a special tool too -
that pin spanner you mentioned. Not sure how to lock the right side
so that the flange can be unscrewed from the spindle. I ASSume it's
screwed on and not pressed on, and I don't know if either or both are
right hand threads or left hand threads. I was hoping someone here
might have replaced the bearings on one of these critters and would
know how to get the flanges off.

I uploaded the photos.

Here's an overview of the head I'm talking about. The head is a model
B923A. I'm not sure why, but the right hand flange is intentionally
about 1.5" farther from the motor than the left side. The former
owner put that brass collar on and it doesn't fit the banjo for the
wheel guards and I want to remove that - preferably without cutting it
off.
http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/x...eadCloseup.jpg


Here's a closeup of the right side showing the two holes in the face
of the flange. The circumference of the flange looks rough, but
that's the rosin I had wetted with alcohol to temporarily "glue" it to
the wood. The metal is still smooth and unmarred.
http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/x...attachment.jpg


Here's what I meant by trying to use 2x4's as wrenches. Even with
rosin on the circumference of the flanges, I couldn't get the wood to
grip tight enough to unscrew the flanges.
http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/x...x4wrenches.jpg

The flanges are soft, so I hated to mar the circumference with a pipe
wrench. I had tried putting a band clamp / hose clamp on the outer
surfaces and then gripping the circumference with pipe wrenches, but
no go. The pipe wrenches on hose clamps was actually the first thing
I tried before going to the wooden wrenches, but I hadn't thought to
hit the flange with Kroil before I did that, so it might be worth a
second try that way.

RWL

I have KO Lee 300 with the same or close to the same head on it.

When I got it..both flanges had pipe wrench marks.

Sometimes..you do what you gotta do, carefully and keep a file handy for
afterwards. But the pin spanner is something you really need, no matter
what. Fairly easy to make btw..just use something better than nails for
hte pins. Dowel pins are good


Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

On Sun, 25 Jul 2010 10:23:22 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sat, 24 Jul 2010 21:44:41 -0400, GeoLane at PTD dot NET GeoLane at
PTD dot NET wrote:



Sounds like you need The TOOL. WHich on many surface grinders etc
etc..is a pin spanner or clutch spanner that holds the adapter while
you break the nut off.

I've come to the conclusion I'm going to need a special tool too -
that pin spanner you mentioned. Not sure how to lock the right side
so that the flange can be unscrewed from the spindle. I ASSume it's
screwed on and not pressed on, and I don't know if either or both are
right hand threads or left hand threads. I was hoping someone here
might have replaced the bearings on one of these critters and would
know how to get the flanges off.

I uploaded the photos.

Here's an overview of the head I'm talking about. The head is a model
B923A. I'm not sure why, but the right hand flange is intentionally
about 1.5" farther from the motor than the left side. The former
owner put that brass collar on and it doesn't fit the banjo for the
wheel guards and I want to remove that - preferably without cutting it
off.
http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/x...eadCloseup.jpg


Here's a closeup of the right side showing the two holes in the face
of the flange. The circumference of the flange looks rough, but
that's the rosin I had wetted with alcohol to temporarily "glue" it to
the wood. The metal is still smooth and unmarred.
http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/x...attachment.jpg


Here's what I meant by trying to use 2x4's as wrenches. Even with
rosin on the circumference of the flanges, I couldn't get the wood to
grip tight enough to unscrew the flanges.
http://i749.photobucket.com/albums/x...x4wrenches.jpg

The flanges are soft, so I hated to mar the circumference with a pipe
wrench. I had tried putting a band clamp / hose clamp on the outer
surfaces and then gripping the circumference with pipe wrenches, but
no go. The pipe wrenches on hose clamps was actually the first thing
I tried before going to the wooden wrenches, but I hadn't thought to
hit the flange with Kroil before I did that, so it might be worth a
second try that way.

RWL

I have KO Lee 300 with the same or close to the same head on it.

When I got it..both flanges had pipe wrench marks.

Sometimes..you do what you gotta do, carefully and keep a file handy for
afterwards. But the pin spanner is something you really need, no matter
what. Fairly easy to make btw..just use something better than nails for
hte pins. Dowel pins are good


Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch


Parts manuals for the K.O. Lee, B923 Motor Assembly, part No. B923A,
are available for downloading on the Web...
Try http://www.kolee.com/PARTSMANUALS/ta...5/Default.aspx
for one source.

I believe that the part you are attempting to remove is called a
"Wheel Flange" and the outer washer, which you do not show, is called
a "Keyed Wheel Flange". Looking at several other K.O. Lee grinders
this use of a keyed outer wheel flange appears to be common with these
machines.

Cheers,

John D. Slocomb
(jdslocombatgmail)

replying to GeoLane at PTD dot NET, rwilliams wrote:
I realize this is an old thread but, did you ever get the flanges off the
motor shaft/spindle?. I am facing the same problem.
Thanks,
Bob

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