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Do not buy a Harbor Freight "rock tumbler"
On Sun, 30 May 2010 15:41:05 -0500, Pete Keillor
wrote: On Sun, 30 May 2010 13:06:09 -0700, Gunner Asch wrote: On Sun, 30 May 2010 13:31:38 -0500, Pete Keillor wrote: On Sun, 30 May 2010 11:19:11 -0700, Gunner Asch wrote: On Sun, 30 May 2010 09:29:59 -0500, Ignoramus28053 wrote: On 2010-05-30, Gunner Asch wrote: What kind of Brasso are you guys talking about? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brasso OK, more exactly, do you use liquid brasso or some kind of powder? I have the liquid brasso at home. The liquid. Simply fill up a tablespoon with the stuff..maybe two..and dump it into the media if its walnut hulls, corn cobs etc etc. I am running it with Brasso now... thanks for a great tip... i Give it a couple hours at the least. Its a very fine abrasive, but it works pretty damned well. Gunner Brasso also has ammonia in it, which is the active ingredient in a lot of copper fouling bore cleaners. However, it's only at 2-3% You can google the msds. I've used exactly the same thing, Brasso on walnut hulls, for a long time for brass for reloading. I now have some stuff from Dillon. Pete Keillor What did you get and how does it work? Gunner Just their Rapid Polish 290, still in my 30 yr. old Thumler's Tumbler. It works at least as good as Brasso, doesn't have the ammonia. They claim it doesn't weaken the brass like Brasso, but I had very few case failures loading .357 brass over and over for years using Brasso. I lost my 50 lb. bag of walnut hulls in a move, so I'm using some Lyman media right now. Pete There cant be a hell of a lot of ammonia in Brasso, as Ive got brass sitting in my 2' vibratory thats been there for over a year, and it was sitting in the tumbler for nearly a year, 3 yrs ago. G Stuff must evaporate fairly quickly. Gunner -- "First Law of Leftist Debate The more you present a leftist with factual evidence that is counter to his preconceived world view and the more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot, homophobe approaches infinity. This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to the subject." Grey Ghost |
Do not buy a Harbor Freight "rock tumbler"
Pete Keillor wrote in
: On Sun, 30 May 2010 13:06:09 -0700, Gunner Asch wrote: On Sun, 30 May 2010 13:31:38 -0500, Pete Keillor wrote: On Sun, 30 May 2010 11:19:11 -0700, Gunner Asch wrote: On Sun, 30 May 2010 09:29:59 -0500, Ignoramus28053 wrote: On 2010-05-30, Gunner Asch wrote: What kind of Brasso are you guys talking about? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brasso OK, more exactly, do you use liquid brasso or some kind of powder? I have the liquid brasso at home. The liquid. Simply fill up a tablespoon with the stuff..maybe two..and dump it into the media if its walnut hulls, corn cobs etc etc. I am running it with Brasso now... thanks for a great tip... i Give it a couple hours at the least. Its a very fine abrasive, but it works pretty damned well. Gunner Brasso also has ammonia in it, which is the active ingredient in a lot of copper fouling bore cleaners. However, it's only at 2-3% You can google the msds. I've used exactly the same thing, Brasso on walnut hulls, for a long time for brass for reloading. I now have some stuff from Dillon. Pete Keillor What did you get and how does it work? Gunner Just their Rapid Polish 290, still in my 30 yr. old Thumler's Tumbler. It works at least as good as Brasso, doesn't have the ammonia. They claim it doesn't weaken the brass like Brasso, but I had very few case failures loading .357 brass over and over for years using Brasso. I lost my 50 lb. bag of walnut hulls in a move, so I'm using some Lyman media right now. You can get walnut hull media on the cheap at pet stores. It's called "lizard bedding". I'm tired of having to fish media out of flash holes, and am thinking about going to ultrasonic. I have a medium sized Branson cleaner (3/4 gal), and there are a number of home brew cleaning solutions on the web. Hornady is now selling both a cleaner & a solution to use with it. Their cleaner is just a re-labeled Gemoro, which you can buy cheaper elsewhere. Check out: http://www.6mmbr.com/ultrasonic.html Doug White Doug White |
Do not buy a Harbor Freight "rock tumbler"
On Sun, 30 May 2010 21:21:25 GMT, Doug White
wrote: Pete Keillor wrote in : On Sun, 30 May 2010 13:06:09 -0700, Gunner Asch wrote: On Sun, 30 May 2010 13:31:38 -0500, Pete Keillor wrote: On Sun, 30 May 2010 11:19:11 -0700, Gunner Asch wrote: On Sun, 30 May 2010 09:29:59 -0500, Ignoramus28053 wrote: On 2010-05-30, Gunner Asch wrote: What kind of Brasso are you guys talking about? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brasso OK, more exactly, do you use liquid brasso or some kind of powder? I have the liquid brasso at home. The liquid. Simply fill up a tablespoon with the stuff..maybe two..and dump it into the media if its walnut hulls, corn cobs etc etc. I am running it with Brasso now... thanks for a great tip... i Give it a couple hours at the least. Its a very fine abrasive, but it works pretty damned well. Gunner Brasso also has ammonia in it, which is the active ingredient in a lot of copper fouling bore cleaners. However, it's only at 2-3% You can google the msds. I've used exactly the same thing, Brasso on walnut hulls, for a long time for brass for reloading. I now have some stuff from Dillon. Pete Keillor What did you get and how does it work? Gunner Just their Rapid Polish 290, still in my 30 yr. old Thumler's Tumbler. It works at least as good as Brasso, doesn't have the ammonia. They claim it doesn't weaken the brass like Brasso, but I had very few case failures loading .357 brass over and over for years using Brasso. I lost my 50 lb. bag of walnut hulls in a move, so I'm using some Lyman media right now. You can get walnut hull media on the cheap at pet stores. It's called "lizard bedding". I'm tired of having to fish media out of flash holes, and am thinking about going to ultrasonic. I have a medium sized Branson cleaner (3/4 gal), and there are a number of home brew cleaning solutions on the web. Hornady is now selling both a cleaner & a solution to use with it. Their cleaner is just a re-labeled Gemoro, which you can buy cheaper elsewhere. Check out: http://www.6mmbr.com/ultrasonic.html Doug White Doug White Thanks Doug...interesting indeed. Last ultrasonic of a size I could use, was pretty damned expensive, even used, so Ive not investigated them in years. Gunner -- "First Law of Leftist Debate The more you present a leftist with factual evidence that is counter to his preconceived world view and the more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot, homophobe approaches infinity. This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to the subject." Grey Ghost |
Do not buy a Harbor Freight "rock tumbler"
"Gunner Asch" wrote in message ... [...] Ayup. It has little or no ability to remove burrs in anything hard. Add a bit more Brasso..another table spoon and it will likely remove the last bit of stains..which generally are etched into the material..just a heads up. Might not be deep..but walnut hulls have little ability to actually remove much metal. The last batch I put in a) pieces that were in corn cob before and b) pieces that I cleaned with Brasso by hand - some of them 3 times. The latter still had stains on them. The nut shells did not remove them after 7+ hours (I did not add Brasso to the shells on this occasion). I think you are right about the etching. I shall look for some of the mild plastic media and see what they can do. The next batch I shall put some steel in the nut shells. What compound do you use for steel? There is a ton of proprietary compounds out there. I hear some people just put in a bit of turtle wax. I run the silica with just water and dish- washing liquid with the predictable result of good cleaning but flash rusting. I wonder if dumping in a bit of Evaporust would work. Are you trying to deburr, destain or what? Walnut hulls are really not much good for anything as hard as steel, other than for putting a nice almost matt finish on it. Ceramics are what you need for steel. What are you trying to do with the steel? Let us know and Im sure you will have a lot of suggestions..some even good. On this occasion I am purely trying to find out what the various media will do to various pieces. Eventually I would like to deburr/remove machine marks from steel. I understand that ceramic media are pretty much the ticket but while I am hunting for a cheap source of the ceramics I am playing with whatever is at hand :-) -- Michael Koblic, Campbell River, BC |
Do not buy a Harbor Freight "rock tumbler"
On Wednesday, May 26, 2010 at 5:27:26 PM UTC-5, Ignoramus5816 wrote:
Unless you want it to break after 3 weeks, that is. What a POS. I bought it to show what rock tubling is, to my kids. I sort of knew that it is junk, and bought an extended warranty, but all it give me is the right to get another POS. i I have 3 of them the double barrel ones have had no problem with them I been running rock through them for the last yr and they are still running great. I have had no problem with them. |
Do not buy a Harbor Freight "rock tumbler"
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Do not buy a Harbor Freight "rock tumbler"
"Terry Coombs" fired this volley in news:mknpap$594$1
@dont-email.me: They're also supposed to work really well to ball mill homemade black powder . Not even close, Terry. The minimum 'correct' load for media to properly ball mill (anything) is 50% full, with 25% of the empty volume in material to be ground. Typically, amateur BP-makers use hardened lead media -- about 1/2" in diamter for that particular 'tumbler'. When filled with 5lb of that lead, the thing will hardly turn over, much less turn at the optimum speed (about 90rpm) for that 4-7/8" i.d. jar. It requires re-work of the support bearings AND the motor's being replaced in order to mill continually at the proper speed. Some of those folks who report that "it works fine" are also reporting milling times as long as 24 hours. At the proper speed and charging factors, it will produce better-than-commercial BP in 2-1/2 to 4 hours. Lloyd (who wrote the book on it "Ball Milling Theory and Practice for the Amateur Pyrotechnician") |
Do not buy a Harbor Freight "rock tumbler"
On Wed, 03 Jun 2015 16:58:48 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote: "Terry Coombs" fired this volley in news:mknpap$594$1 : They're also supposed to work really well to ball mill homemade black powder . Not even close, Terry. The minimum 'correct' load for media to properly ball mill (anything) is 50% full, with 25% of the empty volume in material to be ground. Typically, amateur BP-makers use hardened lead media -- about 1/2" in diamter for that particular 'tumbler'. When filled with 5lb of that lead, the thing will hardly turn over, much less turn at the optimum speed (about 90rpm) for that 4-7/8" i.d. jar. It requires re-work of the support bearings AND the motor's being replaced in order to mill continually at the proper speed. Some of those folks who report that "it works fine" are also reporting milling times as long as 24 hours. At the proper speed and charging factors, it will produce better-than-commercial BP in 2-1/2 to 4 hours. Lloyd (who wrote the book on it "Ball Milling Theory and Practice for the Amateur Pyrotechnician") And here I am, useing the ones I buy Saturday mornings to clean up rusty treasures with "play sand" then sift them out with a "super ventilated" cookie tin (a square cookie tin with a section of fine expanded stainless installed in the inverted lid), works great except that the sand tends to get compacted into rusty sockets. --- Gerry :-)} London,Canada |
Do not buy a Harbor Freight "rock tumbler"
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
"Terry Coombs" fired this volley in news:mknpap$594$1 @dont-email.me: They're also supposed to work really well to ball mill homemade black powder . Not even close, Terry. The minimum 'correct' load for media to properly ball mill (anything) is 50% full, with 25% of the empty volume in material to be ground. Typically, amateur BP-makers use hardened lead media -- about 1/2" in diamter for that particular 'tumbler'. When filled with 5lb of that lead, the thing will hardly turn over, much less turn at the optimum speed (about 90rpm) for that 4-7/8" i.d. jar. It requires re-work of the support bearings AND the motor's being replaced in order to mill continually at the proper speed. Some of those folks who report that "it works fine" are also reporting milling times as long as 24 hours. At the proper speed and charging factors, it will produce better-than-commercial BP in 2-1/2 to 4 hours. Lloyd (who wrote the book on it "Ball Milling Theory and Practice for the Amateur Pyrotechnician") I did not realize they were that far down in quality . I gotta get back on my ball mill project , got all the major pieces cast and/or machined , just gotta start stickin' stuff together . -- Snag |
Do not buy a Harbor Freight "rock tumbler"
I once was at a multi-spindle screw machine shop, they were making stainless steel nuts from hex bar. To deburr the parts they put them in a cement mixer and let them run for hours, MAN IT WAS LOUD !!!!!!
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Do not buy a Harbor Freight "rock tumbler"
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
"Terry Coombs" fired this volley in news:mknpap$594$1 @dont-email.me: They're also supposed to work really well to ball mill homemade black powder . Not even close, Terry. The minimum 'correct' load for media to properly ball mill (anything) is 50% full, with 25% of the empty volume in material to be ground. Typically, amateur BP-makers use hardened lead media -- about 1/2" in diamter for that particular 'tumbler'. When filled with 5lb of that lead, the thing will hardly turn over, much less turn at the optimum speed (about 90rpm) for that 4-7/8" i.d. jar. It requires re-work of the support bearings AND the motor's being replaced in order to mill continually at the proper speed. Some of those folks who report that "it works fine" are also reporting milling times as long as 24 hours. At the proper speed and charging factors, it will produce better-than-commercial BP in 2-1/2 to 4 hours. Lloyd (who wrote the book on it "Ball Milling Theory and Practice for the Amateur Pyrotechnician") Yep you did : http://www.rocketsaway.com/pyrotechn...ponenburgh.pdf -- Steve W. |
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