I brought home a Nova Finishing vibratory tumbler. It is a 1/2 cubic
feet, 1/3 HP model. I have a few uses in mind, but here's the first
one. I have a pipe vise that looks rather rusty. Can I disassemble the
vise and use the vibratory tumbler to just tumble the parts that are
small enough and should I expect them to look nice and shiny
afterwards?

i

On Mon, 10 May 2010 13:09:33 -0500, Ignoramus20711
wrote:

I brought home a Nova Finishing vibratory tumbler. It is a 1/2 cubic
feet, 1/3 HP model. I have a few uses in mind, but here's the first
one. I have a pipe vise that looks rather rusty. Can I disassemble the
vise and use the vibratory tumbler to just tumble the parts that are
small enough and should I expect them to look nice and shiny
afterwards?

i


Of course. What will you be using as media?

Id STRONGLY recommend against using sand. While it works very well..you
will find that that vise feels very Crunchy for a long time afterwards

Gunner

--


"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

Save yourself some trouble, get a plastic barrel and fill it half full of muriatic acid 30%. Get another barrel and fill it half
full of a heavy concentration of Baking Soda. Degrease the vice, drop in acid for at last an hour, maybe overnight. Remove, rinse
with a hose and drop in the soda barrel for an hour. Remove and hose down, blow off the water with air and then oil. This works a
treat, but be careful, use rubber gloves and a face mask at least.

The answer is yes for a tumbler, but probably not for yours. I think yours is way to small. If you do, you must use the correct
media for the job.
Steve

"Ignoramus20711" wrote in message ...
I brought home a Nova Finishing vibratory tumbler. It is a 1/2 cubic
feet, 1/3 HP model. I have a few uses in mind, but here's the first
one. I have a pipe vise that looks rather rusty. Can I disassemble the
vise and use the vibratory tumbler to just tumble the parts that are
small enough and should I expect them to look nice and shiny
afterwards?

i

On 2010-05-10, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 10 May 2010 13:09:33 -0500, Ignoramus20711
wrote:

I brought home a Nova Finishing vibratory tumbler. It is a 1/2 cubic
feet, 1/3 HP model. I have a few uses in mind, but here's the first
one. I have a pipe vise that looks rather rusty. Can I disassemble the
vise and use the vibratory tumbler to just tumble the parts that are
small enough and should I expect them to look nice and shiny
afterwards?

Of course. What will you be using as media?

The tumbler came with three different media. Some look like fish food,
kind of cylindrical pellets (one box more coarse and one box fine),
and some is triangular ceramic.

Id STRONGLY recommend against using sand. While it works very well..you
will find that that vise feels very Crunchy for a long time afterwards

I would tumble it all disassembled, each piece separately, but I see
your point.

i

On 2010-05-10, Steve Lusardi wrote:

Save yourself some trouble, get a plastic barrel and fill it half
full of muriatic acid 30%. Get another barrel and fill it half full
of a heavy concentration of Baking Soda. Degrease the vice, drop in
acid for at last an hour, maybe overnight. Remove, rinse with a hose
and drop in the soda barrel for an hour. Remove and hose down, blow
off the water with air and then oil. This works a treat, but be
careful, use rubber gloves and a face mask at least.

I have a bucketful of half diluted (appx. 10%) muriatic acid.

I could pretty easily dip the vise in it, indeed.

i

The answer is yes for a tumbler, but probably not for yours. I think yours is way to small. If you do, you must use the correct
media for the job.
Steve

"Ignoramus20711" wrote in message ...
I brought home a Nova Finishing vibratory tumbler. It is a 1/2 cubic
feet, 1/3 HP model. I have a few uses in mind, but here's the first
one. I have a pipe vise that looks rather rusty. Can I disassemble the
vise and use the vibratory tumbler to just tumble the parts that are
small enough and should I expect them to look nice and shiny
afterwards?

i

On 5/10/2010 12:09 PM, Ignoramus20711 wrote:
On 2010-05-10, Steve wrote:

Save yourself some trouble, get a plastic barrel and fill it half
full of muriatic acid 30%. Get another barrel and fill it half full
of a heavy concentration of Baking Soda. Degrease the vice, drop in
acid for at last an hour, maybe overnight. Remove, rinse with a hose
and drop in the soda barrel for an hour. Remove and hose down, blow
off the water with air and then oil. This works a treat, but be
careful, use rubber gloves and a face mask at least.

I have a bucketful of half diluted (appx. 10%) muriatic acid.

I could pretty easily dip the vise in it, indeed.

Keep everyone upwind of the bucket Iggy!

DAMHIKT. Dayum!

--Winston

On 2010-05-10, Ignoramus20711 wrote:
On 2010-05-10, Steve Lusardi wrote:

Save yourself some trouble, get a plastic barrel and fill it half
full of muriatic acid 30%. Get another barrel and fill it half full
of a heavy concentration of Baking Soda. Degrease the vice, drop in
acid for at last an hour, maybe overnight. Remove, rinse with a hose
and drop in the soda barrel for an hour. Remove and hose down, blow
off the water with air and then oil. This works a treat, but be
careful, use rubber gloves and a face mask at least.

I have a bucketful of half diluted (appx. 10%) muriatic acid.

I could pretty easily dip the vise in it, indeed.


What I forgot to mention is two things:

1) Rusted things look very weird when they come out of a muriatic acid
bath. I derusted a few things in muriatic acid, the key is wash them
in soda right away and then bake in oven or barbeque immediately so
they dry before rusting, then oil. Everything comes out looking very
strange, looking more like potmetal than like steel.

2) I wanted to try and see how the tumbler works. I thought that it
might make those vise parts look kind of nice.

i

On May 10, 11:54*am, "Steve Lusardi" wrote:
Save yourself some trouble, get a plastic barrel and fill it half full of muriatic acid 30%. Get another barrel and fill it half
full of a heavy concentration of Baking Soda. Degrease the vice, drop in acid for at last an hour, maybe overnight. Remove, rinse
with a hose and drop in the soda barrel for an hour. Remove and hose down, blow off the water with air and then oil.

I'd substitute 'wax' for oil. You'll want to heat the parts to dry
'em,
and while they're hot, brush some beeswax (or cheese wax, or
paraffin wax if that's all you've got); it'll fill all those little
etch pits
with something that won't attract moisture and start rusting again.

The acid removes blueing and (protective) black oxide as well as
that crumbly brown rust.

Good point......Iggy, think shotgun!
Steve

"whit3rd" wrote in message ...
On May 10, 11:54 am, "Steve Lusardi" wrote:
Save yourself some trouble, get a plastic barrel and fill it half full of muriatic acid 30%. Get another barrel and fill it half
full of a heavy concentration of Baking Soda. Degrease the vice, drop in acid for at last an hour, maybe overnight. Remove,
rinse
with a hose and drop in the soda barrel for an hour. Remove and hose down, blow off the water with air and then oil.

I'd substitute 'wax' for oil. You'll want to heat the parts to dry
'em,
and while they're hot, brush some beeswax (or cheese wax, or
paraffin wax if that's all you've got); it'll fill all those little
etch pits
with something that won't attract moisture and start rusting again.

The acid removes blueing and (protective) black oxide as well as
that crumbly brown rust.

On Mon, 10 May 2010 14:09:12 -0500, Ignoramus20711
wrote:

On 2010-05-10, Steve Lusardi wrote:

Save yourself some trouble, get a plastic barrel and fill it half
full of muriatic acid 30%. Get another barrel and fill it half full
of a heavy concentration of Baking Soda. Degrease the vice, drop in
acid for at last an hour, maybe overnight. Remove, rinse with a hose
and drop in the soda barrel for an hour. Remove and hose down, blow
off the water with air and then oil. This works a treat, but be
careful, use rubber gloves and a face mask at least.

I have a bucketful of half diluted (appx. 10%) muriatic acid.

I could pretty easily dip the vise in it, indeed.

That will indeed work well enough. But it will take a while longer to
clean up.


Gunner


i

The answer is yes for a tumbler, but probably not for yours. I think yours is way to small. If you do, you must use the correct
media for the job.
Steve

"Ignoramus20711" wrote in message ...
I brought home a Nova Finishing vibratory tumbler. It is a 1/2 cubic
feet, 1/3 HP model. I have a few uses in mind, but here's the first
one. I have a pipe vise that looks rather rusty. Can I disassemble the
vise and use the vibratory tumbler to just tumble the parts that are
small enough and should I expect them to look nice and shiny
afterwards?

i


--


"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

"Ignoramus20711" wrote...
I brought home a Nova Finishing vibratory tumbler. It is a 1/2 cubic
feet, 1/3 HP model. I have a few uses in mind, but here's the first
one. I have a pipe vise that looks rather rusty. Can I disassemble the
vise and use the vibratory tumbler to just tumble the parts that are
small enough and should I expect them to look nice and shiny
afterwards?

If you're not in a hurry, I'd recommend electolytic rust removal - I was
pretty sceptical, so tried it on a small drill chuck that was rusted solid,
a couple of days in a washing soda (sodium carbonate) bath, chuck connected
to the -ve of a 12v DC supply (max. 5 Amps was all I had around), an old
steel exhaust clamp to the +ve as the "sacrificial" anode, and it's a) rust
free; b)freely rotating; c) back to the original steel surface (apart from
the pitting that was already there - nothing can replace the steel it
lost!).
Once it's cleaned up, oil/wax as normal after a bit of oven time to dry it
off, as the surface will be vulnerable to rust otherwise.

I did find I had to clean the crud off the anode fairly regularly, a quick
wire brushing every time I passed, but much more pleasant than messing with
strong acids etc! I'm told that a carbon rod works just as well but doesn't
fur up, so when I can find some I'll try that instead.

HTH,
Dave H.
--
(The engineer formerly known as Homeless)

"Rules are for the obedience of fools, and the guidance of wise men" -
Douglas Bader

On 2010-05-10, Dave H. wrote:
If you're not in a hurry, I'd recommend electolytic rust removal - I was
pretty sceptical, so tried it on a small drill chuck that was rusted solid,
a couple of days in a washing soda (sodium carbonate) bath, chuck connected
to the -ve of a 12v DC supply (max. 5 Amps was all I had around), an old
steel exhaust clamp to the +ve as the "sacrificial" anode, and it's a) rust
free; b)freely rotating; c) back to the original steel surface (apart from
the pitting that was already there - nothing can replace the steel it
lost!).
Once it's cleaned up, oil/wax as normal after a bit of oven time to dry it
off, as the surface will be vulnerable to rust otherwise.

I did find I had to clean the crud off the anode fairly regularly, a quick
wire brushing every time I passed, but much more pleasant than messing with
strong acids etc! I'm told that a carbon rod works just as well but doesn't
fur up, so when I can find some I'll try that instead.

I did it once and did not like it, it was messy. This vise has a lot
of nooks and innards that may not be cleaned properly. But, I might as
well try, as the weather is nice.


i

We use a couple of tumblers at work mostly to deburr little 304SS brackets
and stuff, with cylindrical ceramic media 1/4" diameter with the ends cut at
a 45 deg bevel so the ends are pretty sharp. Twenty minutes or so rounds
the edges and smoothes everything out, and leaves the surface covered with
little "dings" that you really can't feel but can see. These are 1-4" by
1-4"-ish, 20 and 16 ga, sized pieces. If something is too heavy it drops to
the bottom and doesn't "tumble", so you will have to experiment with yours
to see what the limit is - I doubt if the vise body itself will work. I've
done some small pieces of hot rolled and cold rolled with scale and rust
(just before we were throwing away the media so I didn't get screamed at
:-)), and it took off the rust but didn't really cut the scale. Our media
won't go into small holes, but smaller media cuts a lot slower. Those flat
triangles would probably be better if you have small nooks and crannies.
Anyway, should work for the hardware but not the body and the moveable jaw.

-----
Regards,
Carl Ijames

"Ignoramus20711" wrote in message
...
I brought home a Nova Finishing vibratory tumbler. It is a 1/2 cubic
feet, 1/3 HP model. I have a few uses in mind, but here's the first
one. I have a pipe vise that looks rather rusty. Can I disassemble the
vise and use the vibratory tumbler to just tumble the parts that are
small enough and should I expect them to look nice and shiny
afterwards?

i

On Mon, 10 May 2010 22:55:09 +0100, "Dave H."
wrote:


"Ignoramus20711" wrote...
I brought home a Nova Finishing vibratory tumbler. It is a 1/2 cubic
feet, 1/3 HP model. I have a few uses in mind, but here's the first
one. I have a pipe vise that looks rather rusty. Can I disassemble the
vise and use the vibratory tumbler to just tumble the parts that are
small enough and should I expect them to look nice and shiny
afterwards?

If you're not in a hurry, I'd recommend electolytic rust removal - I was
pretty sceptical, so tried it on a small drill chuck that was rusted solid,
a couple of days in a washing soda (sodium carbonate) bath, chuck connected
to the -ve of a 12v DC supply (max. 5 Amps was all I had around), an old
steel exhaust clamp to the +ve as the "sacrificial" anode, and it's a) rust
free; b)freely rotating; c) back to the original steel surface (apart from
the pitting that was already there - nothing can replace the steel it
lost!).
Once it's cleaned up, oil/wax as normal after a bit of oven time to dry it
off, as the surface will be vulnerable to rust otherwise.

I did find I had to clean the crud off the anode fairly regularly, a quick
wire brushing every time I passed, but much more pleasant than messing with
strong acids etc! I'm told that a carbon rod works just as well but doesn't
fur up, so when I can find some I'll try that instead.

HTH,
Dave H.

I use a 5vt dc power supply. 11 amps and a square poly tub, with steel
plates series connected around the inside of the tub with a flat in the
bottom as well.

Hang Stuff from a rod across the top.

Ive done micrometers, mill bits, drill bits, lathe parts, old engine
parts from the desert and all sorts of Stuff.

Works pretty damned well. But you HAVE to make sure the part is totally
emersed..or it will etch a line along the "water line"

Gunner

--


"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

On 2010-05-10, Carl Ijames wrote:
We use a couple of tumblers at work mostly to deburr little 304SS brackets
and stuff, with cylindrical ceramic media 1/4" diameter with the ends cut at
a 45 deg bevel so the ends are pretty sharp. Twenty minutes or so rounds
the edges and smoothes everything out, and leaves the surface covered with
little "dings" that you really can't feel but can see. These are 1-4" by
1-4"-ish, 20 and 16 ga, sized pieces. If something is too heavy it drops to
the bottom and doesn't "tumble", so you will have to experiment with yours
to see what the limit is - I doubt if the vise body itself will work. I've

Yes, the body will not work. I think that I will just throw this into
the muriatic acid bucket and will play with something else in the
tumbler.

done some small pieces of hot rolled and cold rolled with scale and rust
(just before we were throwing away the media so I didn't get screamed at
:-)), and it took off the rust but didn't really cut the scale. Our media
won't go into small holes, but smaller media cuts a lot slower. Those flat
triangles would probably be better if you have small nooks and crannies.
Anyway, should work for the hardware but not the body and the moveable jaw.

OK, I am sure that I will find some uses for it. Does tumbling ruin threads
on bolts?

i

"Ignoramus20711" wrote in message
...
On 2010-05-10, Carl Ijames wrote:
We use a couple of tumblers at work mostly to deburr little 304SS
brackets
and stuff, with cylindrical ceramic media 1/4" diameter with the ends cut
at
a 45 deg bevel so the ends are pretty sharp. Twenty minutes or so rounds
the edges and smoothes everything out, and leaves the surface covered
with
little "dings" that you really can't feel but can see. These are 1-4" by
1-4"-ish, 20 and 16 ga, sized pieces. If something is too heavy it drops
to
the bottom and doesn't "tumble", so you will have to experiment with
yours
to see what the limit is - I doubt if the vise body itself will work.
I've

Yes, the body will not work. I think that I will just throw this into
the muriatic acid bucket and will play with something else in the
tumbler.

done some small pieces of hot rolled and cold rolled with scale and rust
(just before we were throwing away the media so I didn't get screamed at
:-)), and it took off the rust but didn't really cut the scale. Our media
won't go into small holes, but smaller media cuts a lot slower. Those
flat
triangles would probably be better if you have small nooks and crannies.
Anyway, should work for the hardware but not the body and the moveable
jaw.

OK, I am sure that I will find some uses for it. Does tumbling ruin
threads
on bolts?


Have you considered Evaporust? Easy to use, safer than muriatic acid,
re-useable...

--
Michael Koblic,
Campbell River, BC

....
I have a bucketful of half diluted (appx. 10%) muriatic acid.

I could pretty easily dip the vise in it, indeed.


What I forgot to mention is two things:

1) Rusted things look very weird when they come out of a muriatic acid
bath. I derusted a few things in muriatic acid, the key is wash them
in soda right away and then bake in oven or barbeque immediately so
they dry before rusting, then oil. Everything comes out looking very
strange, looking more like potmetal than like steel.

2) I wanted to try and see how the tumbler works. I thought that it
might make those vise parts look kind of nice.

i

Phosphoric acid is a better choice. It leaves a surface just like a primer
coat on the metal. Actually retards further rusting. its the active
ingredient in many rust products from naval jelly to rusty metal primer. Buy
it as "lime away" for $4/gal at farm fleet stores.

Karl

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
anews.com...
...
I have a bucketful of half diluted (appx. 10%) muriatic acid.

I could pretty easily dip the vise in it, indeed.


What I forgot to mention is two things:

1) Rusted things look very weird when they come out of a muriatic acid
bath. I derusted a few things in muriatic acid, the key is wash them
in soda right away and then bake in oven or barbeque immediately so
they dry before rusting, then oil. Everything comes out looking very
strange, looking more like potmetal than like steel.

2) I wanted to try and see how the tumbler works. I thought that it
might make those vise parts look kind of nice.

i

Phosphoric acid is a better choice. It leaves a surface just like a primer
coat on the metal. Actually retards further rusting. its the active
ingredient in many rust products from naval jelly to rusty metal primer.
Buy it as "lime away" for $4/gal at farm fleet stores.

Karl


Well, actually Lime Away, CLR and other hard water stain removers use citric
and sulfamic acids. They are much less hazardous. Naval Jelly and many
others sold for rust removal do have phosphoric acid.

On 2010-05-11, Karl Townsend wrote:
Phosphoric acid is a better choice. It leaves a surface just like a primer
coat on the metal. Actually retards further rusting. its the active
ingredient in many rust products from naval jelly to rusty metal primer. Buy
it as "lime away" for $4/gal at farm fleet stores.

That would be a good excuse to go to a Farm and Fleet store. Does it
evaporate, like muriatic? I suppose I can dissolve it in water?

i

Karl Townsend wrote:
Phosphoric acid is a better choice. It leaves a surface just like a primer
coat on the metal. Actually retards further rusting. its the active
ingredient in many rust products from naval jelly to rusty metal primer. Buy
it as "lime away" for $4/gal at farm fleet stores.

Would that be "Runnings Farm & Fleet", "Norby's Farm Fleet", "Blain's
Farm & Fleet", "Mills Fleet Farm", some other farm fleet unknown to
Google? Just what does the "fleet" part refer to? Truck fleet? How
did farms & fleets come to be associated? Just curious.

Anyhow, none of these farm fleet stores have "lime away", at least that
they'll admit to on the web G. Trying to find it gets worse: there
is a "Lime A Way" (3 words) that's sulfumic acid & "Lime Away" that's
phosphoric. And the places selling them don't always get the name right
(different manufacturers). Worse yet: it's "Lime Away" on the MSDS at
the manufacturer's, but called "Lime Way" on their product list:
http://ritekem.thomasnet.com/viewite...r=10&forward=1


About the only place I could find Lime Away (Way) was at the
manufacturer, Rite-Kem. Where they had 4 gallons for $64. $4/gal is a
REALLY good price - I got a gallon of plain phosphoric acid for $15 from
a local dairy farmer & have never seen much better online.

But I much prefer muriatic - it's faster & keeps forever. The
phosphoric crystallized and became ineffective (after couple years(?)).

My $.02,
Bob

Michael Koblic wrote:
Have you considered Evaporust? Easy to use, safer than muriatic acid,
re-useable...

.... expensive. Bob

Muriatic acid is the only common acid that evaporates; they all dissolve in
water. I think the EvapoRust works great and no worries about pH before it
goes down the drain.

Threads look like burrs to tumbler media, so if the media is aggressive
enough to be removing burrs that size they will flatten and smooth the
threads, too. Polishing media shouldn't do any damage.

-----
Regards,
Carl Ijames

"Ignoramus20711" wrote in message
...
On 2010-05-11, Karl Townsend wrote:
Phosphoric acid is a better choice. It leaves a surface just like a
primer
coat on the metal. Actually retards further rusting. its the active
ingredient in many rust products from naval jelly to rusty metal primer.
Buy
it as "lime away" for $4/gal at farm fleet stores.

That would be a good excuse to go to a Farm and Fleet store. Does it
evaporate, like muriatic? I suppose I can dissolve it in water?

i

Tractor Supply Co TSC is a large chain that has similar products that a Farm
& Fleet would have.

Searching on the TSC site, phosphoric returns a Milkstone Remover & Acid
Rinse
(phosphoric acid solution) for $12/gallon.
Searching acid returns Muriatic acid $5/gallon.

--
WB
..........


"Bob Engelhardt" wrote in message
...

Would that be "Runnings Farm & Fleet", "Norby's Farm Fleet", "Blain's Farm
& Fleet", "Mills Fleet Farm", some other farm fleet unknown to Google?
Just what does the "fleet" part refer to? Truck fleet? How did farms &
fleets come to be associated? Just curious.

Anyhow, none of these farm fleet stores have "lime away", at least that
they'll admit to on the web G. Trying to find it gets worse: there is
a "Lime A Way" (3 words) that's sulfumic acid & "Lime Away" that's
phosphoric. And the places selling them don't always get the name right
(different manufacturers). Worse yet: it's "Lime Away" on the MSDS at
the manufacturer's, but called "Lime Way" on their product list:
http://ritekem.thomasnet.com/viewite...r=10&forward=1

About the only place I could find Lime Away (Way) was at the manufacturer,
Rite-Kem. Where they had 4 gallons for $64. $4/gal is a REALLY good
price - I got a gallon of plain phosphoric acid for $15 from a local dairy
farmer & have never seen much better online.

But I much prefer muriatic - it's faster & keeps forever. The phosphoric
crystallized and became ineffective (after couple years(?)).

My $.02,
Bob

What's that Lassie? You say that anorton fell down the old
rec.crafts.metalworking mine and will die if we don't mount a rescue
by Mon, 10 May 2010 18:52:29 -0700:


"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
tanews.com...
...
I have a bucketful of half diluted (appx. 10%) muriatic acid.

I could pretty easily dip the vise in it, indeed.


What I forgot to mention is two things:

1) Rusted things look very weird when they come out of a muriatic acid
bath. I derusted a few things in muriatic acid, the key is wash them
in soda right away and then bake in oven or barbeque immediately so
they dry before rusting, then oil. Everything comes out looking very
strange, looking more like potmetal than like steel.

2) I wanted to try and see how the tumbler works. I thought that it
might make those vise parts look kind of nice.

i

Phosphoric acid is a better choice. It leaves a surface just like a primer
coat on the metal. Actually retards further rusting. its the active
ingredient in many rust products from naval jelly to rusty metal primer.
Buy it as "lime away" for $4/gal at farm fleet stores.

Karl


Well, actually Lime Away, CLR and other hard water stain removers use citric
and sulfamic acids. They are much less hazardous. Naval Jelly and many
others sold for rust removal do have phosphoric acid.

used to have phosphoric in it, but not any more.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calcium_Lime_Rust
--

Dan H.
northshore MA.

Just an update. I took the vise apart and put most of its parts into a
muriatic acid bucket, which I keep in the backyard for just this
purpose. The only items I did not put in the acid, are screws, nuts
and the big pressing screw, which cannot be removed from the yoke. I
will just wirebrush those.

The tumbler is working pretty well, but I think that putting rusted
vise parts in it is asking for too much. I am tumbling an assortment
of various stuff just to see how well it works.

i

On Mon, 10 May 2010 22:28:11 -0400, Bob Engelhardt
wrote the following:

Michael Koblic wrote:
Have you considered Evaporust? Easy to use, safer than muriatic acid,
re-useable...

... expensive. Bob

Muriatic: $4/gal and a pool supply. Must be neutralized, can't use
indoors or all your machines rust like hell, etc.

Evapo-Rust: $20/gal at HF, peerhaps a wee bit safer. (I need to try
that the next time I need a deruster for something. Reviews here are
rosy.)

--
You will find that the mere resolve not to be useless,
and the honest desire to help other people, will, in
the quickest and delicatest ways, improve yourself.
-- John Ruskin

On 2010-05-12, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 10 May 2010 22:28:11 -0400, Bob Engelhardt
wrote the following:

Michael Koblic wrote:
Have you considered Evaporust? Easy to use, safer than muriatic acid,
re-useable...

... expensive. Bob

Muriatic: $4/gal and a pool supply. Must be neutralized, can't use
indoors or all your machines rust like hell, etc.

Evapo-Rust: $20/gal at HF, peerhaps a wee bit safer. (I need to try
that the next time I need a deruster for something. Reviews here are
rosy.)

I keep and use muriatic acid outdoors. I reuse it many times.

i