On May 3, 9:30*pm, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 3 May 2010 09:58:56 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote the following:

I have owned a track ball since a 2000 shoulder surgery. *I wouldn't own
anything else, and am amazed at how hard some people find them to use. *They
use no desk space. *Get the wireless.

If they weren't $100, I'd like to try a Logitech Trackman Live!
handheld presentation trackball.

Regular trackballs (marble on top) require your hand and/or arm to be
lifted and moved. The Logitech Trackman Portable/Optical
Trackman/Cordless Trackman Wheel and the Microsoft Ballpoint have the
left-hand ball to be used by the thumb, -preventing- the carpal and
shoulder problems most people experience with mouse use.

Yes, it's amazing that people can't use their thumb (or palm) to move
the ball. I fell right into it and was fully up to speed within the
hour.

--
Courage is the power to let go of the familiar.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * -- Raymond Lindquist

I posted above about this, but it bears repeating. I've been using
trackballs for longer than I can remember. My weapon of choice these
days is the Microsoft Trackball Explorer. You manipulate the ball with
your index & middle fingers, and the buttons & wheel with your thumb.
THere are two other buttons (which I don't use) that you operate with
your ring finger and pinky.This is a right-handed only device.

So, I thought I ought to buy a couple more of them. They're totally
out of production, and going for over $450 on ebay. So, I'm open to
suggestions. I don't really like using the thumb to operate the ball,
as it's way easier to be precise with the fingers. And the big
Kensigntons (of which I have a couple) are too, well, big, requiring
too much hand movement. Any ideas?

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in message
. 3.70...
"Pete C." fired this volley in news:4bdf03f9$0$26859
:

Well, so far in this thread, you are the only person who likes the
touchpads... at least 12:1 so far.


'appears I'm the only one with good typing posture, too G.

LLoyd

Also, I cannot use anything but one of the chevron shaped keyboards due to
wrist and thumb problems. Can hardly type on a laptop.

Steve

visit my blog at http://cabgbypasssurgery.com watch for the book

A fool shows his annoyance at once, but a prudent man overlooks an insult.

"Wes" wrote in message
...
pyotr filipivich wrote:

I've a new (to me) laptop, and after the first long session, I went
bought a mouse. I'm considering one of the roll up keyboards, too.

If I had to use a laptop for an extended period, I'd bring an external
keyboard with me.

Wes

ditto that

(I've got no idea who said this, since the attribution was lot before I
got to it)

Question: Why did the idiot put the keyboard legs on the wrong side?
The -front- should be lifted to alleviate carpal stress, not the back.

Somebody who listened to customers instead of doctors. I pick up the
correct (front) edge of keyboards; I have yet to encounter a second
person who does so without previously having been diagnosed with carpal
tunnel stress-related problems.
--
As we enjoy great advantages from the inventions of others, we should
be glad of an opportunity to serve others by any invention of ours;
and this we should do freely and generously. (Benjamin Franklin)

Wes on Mon, 03 May 2010 18:07:59 -0400
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
pyotr filipivich wrote:

I have a network cable, but apparently one cannot simply plug it
into the two ports on computers and make a simple home network. Now
_that_ is dumb. I'm updating the Sneakernet protocols to work with a
thumb drive. "Windows - it just works."

Pins 1,2,3,6 irc are what the signal goes in and out on. You need a cross over cable.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethernet_crossover_cable .

Actually a hub or multiport repeater would be easiest.

H,mmmm, can I plug a usb cable into one machine, a hub into the
other, and then plug the USB from the one machine into the USB hub in
the other?

Well, yes, I can, but will it work the way I want it? I'd really
hate to find I'm dividing by zero and creating a black hole or a Higgs
boson generator, or some other minor catastrophe.
-
pyotr filipivich
We will drink no whiskey before its nine.
It's eight fifty eight. Close enough!

On Mon, 03 May 2010 23:47:15 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Wes on Mon, 03 May 2010 18:07:59 -0400
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
pyotr filipivich wrote:

I have a network cable, but apparently one cannot simply plug it
into the two ports on computers and make a simple home network. Now
_that_ is dumb. I'm updating the Sneakernet protocols to work with a
thumb drive. "Windows - it just works."

Pins 1,2,3,6 irc are what the signal goes in and out on. You need a cross over cable.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethernet_crossover_cable .

Actually a hub or multiport repeater would be easiest.

H,mmmm, can I plug a usb cable into one machine, a hub into the
other, and then plug the USB from the one machine into the USB hub in
the other?

Well, yes, I can, but will it work the way I want it? I'd really
hate to find I'm dividing by zero and creating a black hole or a Higgs
boson generator, or some other minor catastrophe.
-
pyotr filipivich
We will drink no whiskey before its nine.
It's eight fifty eight. Close enough!

Cant say they arent out there..but Ive never seen USB used that way
before.

Network ports..shrug..always. Serial ports, rarely

Gunner


--


"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

Gunner Asch wrote:

On Mon, 03 May 2010 23:47:15 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Wes on Mon, 03 May 2010 18:07:59 -0400
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
pyotr filipivich wrote:

I have a network cable, but apparently one cannot simply plug it
into the two ports on computers and make a simple home network. Now
_that_ is dumb. I'm updating the Sneakernet protocols to work with a
thumb drive. "Windows - it just works."

Pins 1,2,3,6 irc are what the signal goes in and out on. You need a cross over cable.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethernet_crossover_cable .

Actually a hub or multiport repeater would be easiest.

H,mmmm, can I plug a usb cable into one machine, a hub into the
other, and then plug the USB from the one machine into the USB hub in
the other?

Well, yes, I can, but will it work the way I want it? I'd really
hate to find I'm dividing by zero and creating a black hole or a Higgs
boson generator, or some other minor catastrophe.
-
pyotr filipivich
We will drink no whiskey before its nine.
It's eight fifty eight. Close enough!

Cant say they arent out there..but Ive never seen USB used that way
before.


I have a special USB to USB cable (with a processor in the middle)
made to transfer data between computers. It takes less time to install
a network card or two, and transfer the data over my network.


--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

Spehro Pefhany wrote:

I'd go with the touch pad over the little eraser nub any day, so 12:2
or 6:1 now.

David

I refuse to use a machine with a cli****s.

Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany

Hmmm... I LIKE playing with cli****i, much better response than the
little eraser nubs on laptops.

David

On May 4, 2:47*am, pyotr filipivich wrote:
Wes on Mon, 03 May 2010 18:07:59 -0400
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking *the following:

pyotr filipivich wrote:

* * * *I have a network cable, but apparently one cannot simply plug it
into the two ports on computers and make a simple home network. *Now
_that_ is dumb. *I'm updating the Sneakernet protocols to work with a
thumb drive. *"Windows - it just works."

Pins 1,2,3,6 irc are what the signal goes in and *out on. *You need a cross over cable.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethernet_crossover_cable.

Actually a hub or multiport repeater would be easiest.

* * * * H,mmmm, can I plug a usb cable into one machine, a hub into the
other, and then plug the USB from the one machine into the USB hub in
the other?

* * * * Well, yes, I can, but will it work the way I want it? *I'd really
hate to find I'm dividing by zero and creating a black hole or a Higgs
boson generator, or some other minor catastrophe.
-
pyotr filipivich
We will drink no whiskey before its nine.
It's eight fifty eight. Close enough!

USB doesn't work that way - it's a master/slave arrangement. There are
special cables that do the translation (far more complicated than a
simple ethernet crossover).

OTOH, IEEE 1394 (Firewire) is peer to peer, and you can simply plug a
cable into each computer and they'll see each other.

On Tue, 04 May 2010 03:55:22 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

On Mon, 03 May 2010 23:47:15 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Wes on Mon, 03 May 2010 18:07:59 -0400
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
pyotr filipivich wrote:

I have a network cable, but apparently one cannot simply plug it
into the two ports on computers and make a simple home network. Now
_that_ is dumb. I'm updating the Sneakernet protocols to work with a
thumb drive. "Windows - it just works."

Pins 1,2,3,6 irc are what the signal goes in and out on. You need a cross over cable.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethernet_crossover_cable .

Actually a hub or multiport repeater would be easiest.

H,mmmm, can I plug a usb cable into one machine, a hub into the
other, and then plug the USB from the one machine into the USB hub in
the other?

Well, yes, I can, but will it work the way I want it? I'd really
hate to find I'm dividing by zero and creating a black hole or a Higgs
boson generator, or some other minor catastrophe.
-
pyotr filipivich
We will drink no whiskey before its nine.
It's eight fifty eight. Close enough!

Cant say they arent out there..but Ive never seen USB used that way
before.


I have a special USB to USB cable (with a processor in the middle)
made to transfer data between computers. It takes less time to install
a network card or two, and transfer the data over my network.

How fast is it compared to networking via 10/100?

Gunner

--


"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

On May 3, 9:07*pm, rangerssuck wrote:
On May 3, 9:30*pm, Larry Jaques wrote:





On Mon, 3 May 2010 09:58:56 -0700, "Steve B"
wrote the following:

I have owned a track ball since a 2000 shoulder surgery. *I wouldn't own
anything else, and am amazed at how hard some people find them to use. *They
use no desk space. *Get the wireless.

If they weren't $100, I'd like to try a Logitech Trackman Live!
handheld presentation trackball.

Regular trackballs (marble on top) require your hand and/or arm to be
lifted and moved. The Logitech Trackman Portable/Optical
Trackman/Cordless Trackman Wheel and the Microsoft Ballpoint have the
left-hand ball to be used by the thumb, -preventing- the carpal and
shoulder problems most people experience with mouse use.

Yes, it's amazing that people can't use their thumb (or palm) to move
the ball. I fell right into it and was fully up to speed within the
hour.

--
Courage is the power to let go of the familiar.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * -- Raymond Lindquist

I posted above about this, but it bears repeating. I've been using
trackballs for longer than I can remember. My weapon of choice these
days is the Microsoft Trackball Explorer. You manipulate the ball with
your index & middle fingers, and the buttons & wheel with your thumb.
THere are two other buttons (which I don't use) that you operate with
your ring finger and pinky.This is a right-handed only device.

So, I thought I ought to buy a couple more of them. They're totally
out of production, and going for over $450 on ebay. So, I'm open to
suggestions. I don't really like using the thumb to operate the ball,
as it's way easier to be precise with the fingers. And the big
Kensigntons (of which I have a couple) are too, well, big, requiring
too much hand movement. Any ideas?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I like the Logitech Marble Mouse, not sure if it's still in
production, haven't seen one on the shelves for awhile. Used to be
about $20, probably tons more now. Ha, they've still got it as the
Trackman Marble. The ball itself is captive, snaps in and out, so
doesn't roll under the furniture if the unit gets tipped over. Ball
is at the front of an oval hand-sized lump with two buttons on either
side. Kensington also had a cheaper trackball, kind of had a manta
ray or batwing configuration. Looks like they still have it, the
Orbit. Both of these have golf-ball sized balls. For the main
machines, I use the larger(and expensive) Kensingtons. Not sure what
you mean by too much hand movement, just the fingertips of index and
middle fingers do the job for me, thumb and little finger on the
buttons. Hand hardly moves at all. I like the larger pool-ball sized
balls for more precise movement on my big machines. Good for
graphics. Except for finish wear, all of them are good for years of
service assuming the usual accumulation of dust bunnies is cleaned out
and the works are degreased once in awhile. The ball sockets are a
magnet for just about any trash, not to mention cat fuzz.

There is also a cordless mini-keyboard with a ball built in, I picked
one of those up for a media machine. Ball is in the right spot for
grabbing the unit with both hands and operating with the right thumb,
about the size of a marble. Not so great for heavy use, but OK for
picking selections off a list of files and the like. Mouse buttons
are split between right and left and are on the bottom and edges. A
relatively recent purchase, they've probably discontinued it, was too
well designed.

If you want something with absolutely no contact with anything except
your hand, look up a Gyromouse. Can be used as an optical mouse on a
flat surface, but mainly you hold it up and twist and turn it. It's
wireless and rechargeable. Has a three-axis accelerometer inside, a
trigger for the index finger, a scroll wheel and a couple of buttons
on the top. Not so hot with laptops unless the cursor travel rate is
turned way down, though.

Stan

Gunner Asch wrote:

On Tue, 04 May 2010 03:55:22 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

On Mon, 03 May 2010 23:47:15 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

Wes on Mon, 03 May 2010 18:07:59 -0400
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
pyotr filipivich wrote:

I have a network cable, but apparently one cannot simply plug it
into the two ports on computers and make a simple home network. Now
_that_ is dumb. I'm updating the Sneakernet protocols to work with a
thumb drive. "Windows - it just works."

Pins 1,2,3,6 irc are what the signal goes in and out on. You need a cross over cable.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethernet_crossover_cable .

Actually a hub or multiport repeater would be easiest.

H,mmmm, can I plug a usb cable into one machine, a hub into the
other, and then plug the USB from the one machine into the USB hub in
the other?

Well, yes, I can, but will it work the way I want it? I'd really
hate to find I'm dividing by zero and creating a black hole or a Higgs
boson generator, or some other minor catastrophe.
-
pyotr filipivich
We will drink no whiskey before its nine.
It's eight fifty eight. Close enough!

Cant say they arent out there..but Ive never seen USB used that way
before.


I have a special USB to USB cable (with a processor in the middle)
made to transfer data between computers. It takes less time to install
a network card or two, and transfer the data over my network.

How fast is it compared to networking via 10/100?


Slow. The only advantage is that 'John Q. Idiot' can plug it in and
load the software without opening a computer case. It was in a load of
computer debris that was donated with a computer, several years ago.
The only thing useful is the long USB cable with a built in repeater.

I'll see if I can find it, and who made it.


--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

pyotr filipivich writes:

H,mmmm, can I plug a usb cable into one machine, a hub into the
other, and then plug the USB from the one machine into the USB hub in
the other?

Well, yes, I can, but will it work the way I want it? I'd really
hate to find I'm dividing by zero and creating a black hole or a Higgs
boson generator, or some other minor catastrophe.

Actually, you can't. The cables are designed with an upstream and a
downstream end; a hub will only have a single upstream port. This isn't
the place to get in to a long discussion of the USB protocol
(there's an introduction at
http://www.cs.nmsu.edu/~pfeiffer/cla...urrentsem=s06),
but it was deliberately designed that way.

There are devices called USB bridges that can be used to connect two
computers, but they are almost entirely unlike hubs.
--
As we enjoy great advantages from the inventions of others, we should
be glad of an opportunity to serve others by any invention of ours;
and this we should do freely and generously. (Benjamin Franklin)

Gunner Asch on Tue, 04 May 2010 08:36:15 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:


I have a special USB to USB cable (with a processor in the middle)
made to transfer data between computers. It takes less time to install
a network card or two, and transfer the data over my network.

How fast is it compared to networking via 10/100?

Oh, you're responding to someone else. But I can set up a
sneakernet in less than an hour - including the debugging. I'm a half
hour minimum from the nearest store, or friend with a "parts drawer",
so, it currently works for me. Nota bene "for me".

Gunner
-
pyotr filipivich
We will drink no whiskey before its nine.
It's eight fifty eight. Close enough!

"RAM³" on 04 May 2010 00:14:45 GMT typed
in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
Wes wrote in
:

pyotr filipivich wrote:

I have a network cable, but apparently one cannot simply plug it
into the two ports on computers and make a simple home network. Now
_that_ is dumb. I'm updating the Sneakernet protocols to work with a
thumb drive. "Windows - it just works."

Pins 1,2,3,6 irc are what the signal goes in and out on. You need a
cross over cable.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethernet_crossover_cable .

Actually a hub or multiport repeater would be easiest.

Wes


A "crossover"/"data transfer" cable can be had for relatively little.

"relatively little" depends on whose relative just died. B-)

I got mine at a Wal-Mart but just about any moderately-stocked office

Wally world wants $40 - I said "I'm sure I can find a less
expensive alternative". Sneakernet has served me well over the
decades.
supply or computer outlet should have them.
-
pyotr filipivich
We will drink no whiskey before its nine.
It's eight fifty eight. Close enough!

pyotr filipivich wrote:

"RAM³" on 04 May 2010 00:14:45 GMT typed
in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
Wes wrote in
:

pyotr filipivich wrote:

I have a network cable, but apparently one cannot simply plug it
into the two ports on computers and make a simple home network. Now
_that_ is dumb. I'm updating the Sneakernet protocols to work with a
thumb drive. "Windows - it just works."

Pins 1,2,3,6 irc are what the signal goes in and out on. You need a
cross over cable.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethernet_crossover_cable .

Actually a hub or multiport repeater would be easiest.

Wes


A "crossover"/"data transfer" cable can be had for relatively little.

"relatively little" depends on whose relative just died. B-)

I got mine at a Wal-Mart but just about any moderately-stocked office

Wally world wants $40 - I said "I'm sure I can find a less
expensive alternative". Sneakernet has served me well over the
decades.

Order up an item# 3638535 Ethernet crossover adapter from Frys.com for
$3.99. This is a little female-male RJ45 block with crossover wiring so
you can put it on the end of any normal Ethernet cable to make it a
crossover cable. You can also buy dedicated crossover cables for $6-$10
in normal and retractable versions, but the little adapter will be the
cheapest and most versatile.

"Ed Huntress" wrote:

A corded keyboard and mouse go in my shoulder bag with my laptop. I'd rather
used the mouse on my knee than use a freaking touchpad. And those keyboards
are ridiculous if you write for a living.

I would suspect you would have strong preferences in a keyboard since it is obvious, you
can write and I know you get paid by the word.

I keep an old dead keyboard around just to remind me what a good one feels like. It is
one of those that go click before the key bottoms out.

For surfing the Web, though, they're fine.

I hang out at a local library near work when my gun club has a meeting to kill time
between getting out of work and meeting time. The LT keyboard is good enough for that
since I'm usually surfing or drawing something which is mostly mouse driven. For some
reason my optical mouse doesn't like their table surfaces. Only place I have had that
problem so far.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

pyotr filipivich wrote:

"RAM³" on 04 May 2010 00:14:45 GMT typed
in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
Wes wrote in
:

pyotr filipivich wrote:

I have a network cable, but apparently one cannot simply plug it
into the two ports on computers and make a simple home network. Now
_that_ is dumb. I'm updating the Sneakernet protocols to work with a
thumb drive. "Windows - it just works."

Pins 1,2,3,6 irc are what the signal goes in and out on. You need a
cross over cable.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethernet_crossover_cable .

Actually a hub or multiport repeater would be easiest.

Wes


A "crossover"/"data transfer" cable can be had for relatively little.

"relatively little" depends on whose relative just died. B-)

I got mine at a Wal-Mart but just about any moderately-stocked office

Wally world wants $40 - I said "I'm sure I can find a less
expensive alternative". Sneakernet has served me well over the
decades.


http://www.cyberguys.com/product-det...productid=5663

$4.09 each, or 10 or more at $3.89 each.


--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

"Pete C." on Tue, 04 May 2010 14:29:30 -0500
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

pyotr filipivich wrote:

"RAM³" on 04 May 2010 00:14:45 GMT typed
in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
Wes wrote in
:

pyotr filipivich wrote:

I have a network cable, but apparently one cannot simply plug it
into the two ports on computers and make a simple home network. Now
_that_ is dumb. I'm updating the Sneakernet protocols to work with a
thumb drive. "Windows - it just works."

Pins 1,2,3,6 irc are what the signal goes in and out on. You need a
cross over cable.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethernet_crossover_cable .

Actually a hub or multiport repeater would be easiest.

Wes


A "crossover"/"data transfer" cable can be had for relatively little.

"relatively little" depends on whose relative just died. B-)

I got mine at a Wal-Mart but just about any moderately-stocked office

Wally world wants $40 - I said "I'm sure I can find a less
expensive alternative". Sneakernet has served me well over the
decades.

Order up an item# 3638535 Ethernet crossover adapter from Frys.com for
$3.99. This is a little female-male RJ45 block with crossover wiring so
you can put it on the end of any normal Ethernet cable to make it a
crossover cable. You can also buy dedicated crossover cables for $6-$10
in normal and retractable versions, but the little adapter will be the
cheapest and most versatile.

Cool. Now I've a reason for a field trip.
-
pyotr filipivich
We will drink no whiskey before its nine.
It's eight fifty eight. Close enough!

"Wes" wrote in message
...
"Ed Huntress" wrote:

A corded keyboard and mouse go in my shoulder bag with my laptop. I'd
rather
used the mouse on my knee than use a freaking touchpad. And those
keyboards
are ridiculous if you write for a living.

I would suspect you would have strong preferences in a keyboard since it
is obvious, you
can write and I know you get paid by the word.

I keep an old dead keyboard around just to remind me what a good one feels
like. It is
one of those that go click before the key bottoms out.

Yeah. I used a Northgate Omni Key 101 for years, a writer's favorite, until
it finally died. It clicked. I miss that sucker, but I've gotten used to the
run-of-the-mill Dells, and I have a Logitech compact, but full-sized one
that I keep in my bag. They're good enough.


For surfing the Web, though, they're fine.

I hang out at a local library near work when my gun club has a meeting to
kill time
between getting out of work and meeting time. The LT keyboard is good
enough for that
since I'm usually surfing or drawing something which is mostly mouse
driven. For some
reason my optical mouse doesn't like their table surfaces. Only place I
have had that
problem so far.

I have a glass-topped dining room table, and whenever I try to use the
optical mouse on it, I'm reminded that light goes right through glass. g

I've found a few surfaces that don't work with the optical. It needs some
texture or color contrast.

--
Ed Huntress


Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

On Tue, 04 May 2010 11:15:33 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

"RAM³" on 04 May 2010 00:14:45 GMT typed
in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
Wes wrote in
:

pyotr filipivich wrote:

I have a network cable, but apparently one cannot simply plug it
into the two ports on computers and make a simple home network. Now
_that_ is dumb. I'm updating the Sneakernet protocols to work with a
thumb drive. "Windows - it just works."

Pins 1,2,3,6 irc are what the signal goes in and out on. You need a
cross over cable.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethernet_crossover_cable .

Actually a hub or multiport repeater would be easiest.

Wes


A "crossover"/"data transfer" cable can be had for relatively little.

"relatively little" depends on whose relative just died. B-)

I got mine at a Wal-Mart but just about any moderately-stocked office

Wally world wants $40 - I said "I'm sure I can find a less
expensive alternative". Sneakernet has served me well over the
decades.
supply or computer outlet should have them.
-
pyotr filipivich
We will drink no whiskey before its nine.
It's eight fifty eight. Close enough!
RJ45 plugs are about $0.12 each and Cat5E cable is about $0.06 a
foot.

One end is orange/white orange, green/white blue, blue/white green
Brown/white brown, and the other end has the orange and green pairs
reversed. (one is wired to "A" and the other to "B".

I can buy 8 foot ready made crossovers from my supplier for $8. Same
price as a straight through.

pyotr filipivich wrote:
Wes

A "crossover"/"data transfer" cable can be had for relatively little.

Wally world wants $40 - I said "I'm sure I can find a less
expensive alternative". Sneakernet has served me well over the
decades.


Look at monoprice.com. (Watch for line wrap.)


usb crossover-style cable for data transfer:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=103&cp_id=10303&cs_id=1030305&p_i d=6748&seq=1&format=2
$ 14.11 each


ethernet crossover cable

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10208&cs_id=1020815&p_i d=287&seq=1&format=2
$ 00.82 each


adapter to turn straight network cable into crossover

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10208&cs_id=1020815&p_i d=5088&seq=1&format=2
$ 2.84 each

Plus shipping.



technomaNge
--
I am a racist.

I am a racist because I think this should be a country of law abiding
citizens instead of a country where people with power get away with
anything they want.

I am a racist because I want the rights guanteed by the constitution to
apply to citizens, non-citizens have a limited set of rights that are
granted temporarily. If non-citizens break our laws they go home.

I am a racist because I want my taxes to pay for strong defence of this
country, not abortions or social programs.

I am a racist because I believe any politician foolish enough to ask for
a poll before taking a position should follow the results of that poll.
People didn't want the healthcare reform, it got passed anyway.

I am a racist because I believe a politician should live up to campaign
promises.

I am a racist because I believe public officials must be responsible for
their decisions.

I am a racist because I believe tolerance means when you say Allah I can
hear it as Jesus and when I say Jesus you can hear it as Allah. If it
doesn't work that way on your side, you aren't tolerant.

I am a racist because I believe all Americans have equal opportunity.
Equalizing wealth is not a function of government.

On May 4, 6:30*pm, "Ed Huntress" wrote:
"Wes" wrote in message

...

"Ed Huntress" wrote:

A corded keyboard and mouse go in my shoulder bag with my laptop. I'd
rather
used the mouse on my knee than use a freaking touchpad. And those
keyboards
are ridiculous if you write for a living.

I would suspect you would have strong preferences in a keyboard since it
is obvious, you
can write and I know you get paid by the word.

I keep an old dead keyboard around just to remind me what a good one feels
like. *It is
one of those that go click before the key bottoms out.

Yeah. I used a Northgate Omni Key 101 for years, a writer's favorite, until
it finally died. It clicked. I miss that sucker, but I've gotten used to the
run-of-the-mill Dells, and I have a Logitech compact, but full-sized one
that I keep in my bag. They're good enough.



For surfing the Web, though, they're fine.

I hang out at a local library near work when my gun club has a meeting to
kill time
between getting out of work and meeting time. *The LT keyboard is good
enough for that
since I'm usually surfing or drawing something which is mostly mouse
driven. *For some
reason my optical mouse doesn't like their table surfaces. *Only place I
have had that
problem so far.

I have a glass-topped dining room table, and whenever I try to use the
optical mouse on it, I'm reminded that light goes right through glass. g

I've found a few surfaces that don't work with the optical. It needs some
texture or color contrast.

--
Ed Huntress





Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." *Dick Anthony Heller

I still have a couple of northgates. THere's a guy out there in web
land who repairs them and sells refurbished keyboards, as well as
replacement parts. There's never been a better keyboard, IMHO.

"rangerssuck" wrote in message
...
On May 4, 6:30 pm, "Ed Huntress" wrote:
"Wes" wrote in message

...

"Ed Huntress" wrote:

A corded keyboard and mouse go in my shoulder bag with my laptop. I'd
rather
used the mouse on my knee than use a freaking touchpad. And those
keyboards
are ridiculous if you write for a living.

I would suspect you would have strong preferences in a keyboard since it
is obvious, you
can write and I know you get paid by the word.

I keep an old dead keyboard around just to remind me what a good one
feels
like. It is
one of those that go click before the key bottoms out.

Yeah. I used a Northgate Omni Key 101 for years, a writer's favorite,
until
it finally died. It clicked. I miss that sucker, but I've gotten used to
the
run-of-the-mill Dells, and I have a Logitech compact, but full-sized one
that I keep in my bag. They're good enough.



For surfing the Web, though, they're fine.

I hang out at a local library near work when my gun club has a meeting
to
kill time
between getting out of work and meeting time. The LT keyboard is good
enough for that
since I'm usually surfing or drawing something which is mostly mouse
driven. For some
reason my optical mouse doesn't like their table surfaces. Only place I
have had that
problem so far.

I have a glass-topped dining room table, and whenever I try to use the
optical mouse on it, I'm reminded that light goes right through glass. g

I've found a few surfaces that don't work with the optical. It needs some
texture or color contrast.

--
Ed Huntress





Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

I still have a couple of northgates. THere's a guy out there in web
land who repairs them and sells refurbished keyboards, as well as
replacement parts. There's never been a better keyboard, IMHO.

Certainly none that I've ever tried.

--
Ed Huntress

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2010-05-04, Ed Huntress wrote:

[ ... ]

Yeah. I used a Northgate Omni Key 101 for years, a writer's favorite,
until
it finally died. It clicked. I miss that sucker, but I've gotten used to
the
run-of-the-mill Dells, and I have a Logitech compact, but full-sized one
that I keep in my bag. They're good enough.

What failed on it? Did you ever try to fix it? Mine still
works. Built like a tank.

It was so long ago that I don't remember, Don. It was a very busy time for
me, writing freelance and trying to keep my head above water, and I had no
patience for fooling around with a bad keyboard.


[ ... ]

I have a glass-topped dining room table, and whenever I try to use the
optical mouse on it, I'm reminded that light goes right through glass.
g

I've found a few surfaces that don't work with the optical. It needs some
texture or color contrast.

Sun used to supply their optical mice with a sort of bluish hard
mousepad with a fine grid structure in it. The older ones used different
LED colors for the different axes -- red for one, IR for the other, and
if you turned the mouse pad 90 degrees, it would behave in a crazy
manner, so people at school computer centers sometimes used that as a
trick to "reserve" a workstation for their use. Everyone else would try
it, find that the mouse behaved strangely, and look for another
computers. When the originator came back, he would sit down, turn the
keypad back to the proper orientation, and work happily. :-)

A computer legend that will live on because of people like you, Don. d8-)


The later optical mice used a different grid, though it looked
similar, it was not orientation sensitive.

Really good mice -- but awkward to use on the arm of a La-Z-Boy
recliner, while a TrackMan Wheel, Velcroed to the arm, works fine. :-)

As it happens, I use a laptop no more than 10% of the time. I have a very
comfortable writing position at my homemade desk, a nice wide screen for
comparing documents, and a desktop machine that meets my modest computing
needs. The laptop is mostly for when I just have to get out of the f***ing
house and work somewhere else. So the little mouse works most of the time
for me.

--
Ed Huntress

"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2010-05-04, pyotr filipivich wrote:
Wes on Mon, 03 May 2010 18:07:59 -0400
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
pyotr filipivich wrote:

I have a network cable, but apparently one cannot simply plug it
into the two ports on computers and make a simple home network. Now
_that_ is dumb. I'm updating the Sneakernet protocols to work with a
thumb drive. "Windows - it just works."

[ ... ]

Actually a hub or multiport repeater would be easiest.

H,mmmm, can I plug a usb cable into one machine, a hub into the
other, and then plug the USB from the one machine into the USB hub in
the other?

Well, yes, I can, but will it work the way I want it? I'd really
hate to find I'm dividing by zero and creating a black hole or a Higgs
boson generator, or some other minor catastrophe.

I strongly doubt that you could make it work unless you are
into writing USB driver software. Unless you can find someone who
wrote it and is offering it for sale or for free.

Just pick up a little 4-port ethernet hub. The software is
there for you in just about any OS which will run in the hardware with
the ethernet ports installed.

The first thing to come up on an eBay search for "ethernet hub"
is:

190393069147

a four-port hub 10BaseT (the older, slower form) for $1.99 (but only 20
minutes to go, so probably gone by the time you see this.

Here's a faster five-port one:

130387027304

starting at $0.01 (and $17.00 shipping. :-)

If USB sneakernet is fast enough for you, the 10Base-T speed would
be blazingly fast by comparison.

Anything which will work with 100BaseT will also work with
10BaseT -- just be slower.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

There is certainly no need for a hub if you are only trying to connect
two machines. A regular crossover cable will do the job just fine. A hub
won't save you from having to configure your network settings either, so
no advantage. Also these days nobody used hubs anyway since switches are
cheap. I keep a little Linksys SD205 5 port 10/100 switch on hand for
quick network setups.

Ed Huntress wrote:

"Wes" wrote in message
...
"Ed Huntress" wrote:

A corded keyboard and mouse go in my shoulder bag with my laptop. I'd
rather
used the mouse on my knee than use a freaking touchpad. And those
keyboards
are ridiculous if you write for a living.

I would suspect you would have strong preferences in a keyboard since it
is obvious, you
can write and I know you get paid by the word.

I keep an old dead keyboard around just to remind me what a good one feels
like. It is
one of those that go click before the key bottoms out.

Yeah. I used a Northgate Omni Key 101 for years, a writer's favorite, until
it finally died. It clicked. I miss that sucker, but I've gotten used to the
run-of-the-mill Dells, and I have a Logitech compact, but full-sized one
that I keep in my bag. They're good enough.


For surfing the Web, though, they're fine.

I hang out at a local library near work when my gun club has a meeting to
kill time
between getting out of work and meeting time. The LT keyboard is good
enough for that
since I'm usually surfing or drawing something which is mostly mouse
driven. For some
reason my optical mouse doesn't like their table surfaces. Only place I
have had that
problem so far.

I have a glass-topped dining room table, and whenever I try to use the
optical mouse on it, I'm reminded that light goes right through glass. g

I've found a few surfaces that don't work with the optical. It needs some
texture or color contrast.

I've found that on those problem surfaces, a plain old piece of paper
works just fine as a mousepad.

"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2010-05-04, Ed Huntress wrote:

[ ... ]

Yeah. I used a Northgate Omni Key 101 for years, a writer's favorite, until
it finally died. It clicked. I miss that sucker, but I've gotten used to the
run-of-the-mill Dells, and I have a Logitech compact, but full-sized one
that I keep in my bag. They're good enough.

What failed on it? Did you ever try to fix it? Mine still
works. Built like a tank.

[ ... ]

I have a glass-topped dining room table, and whenever I try to use the
optical mouse on it, I'm reminded that light goes right through glass. g

I've found a few surfaces that don't work with the optical. It needs some
texture or color contrast.

Sun used to supply their optical mice with a sort of bluish hard
mousepad with a fine grid structure in it. The older ones used different
LED colors for the different axes -- red for one, IR for the other, and
if you turned the mouse pad 90 degrees, it would behave in a crazy
manner, so people at school computer centers sometimes used that as a
trick to "reserve" a workstation for their use. Everyone else would try
it, find that the mouse behaved strangely, and look for another
computers. When the originator came back, he would sit down, turn the
keypad back to the proper orientation, and work happily. :-)

The later optical mice used a different grid, though it looked
similar, it was not orientation sensitive.

The current optical mice use a camera and image processing. They do not
require any special mousepad and only have issues with perfectly smooth,
texture and contrast free surfaces. A piece of paper makes a suitable
mousepad in such cases.

"Pete C." wrote in message
ter.com...

Ed Huntress wrote:

"Wes" wrote in message
...
"Ed Huntress" wrote:

A corded keyboard and mouse go in my shoulder bag with my laptop. I'd
rather
used the mouse on my knee than use a freaking touchpad. And those
keyboards
are ridiculous if you write for a living.

I would suspect you would have strong preferences in a keyboard since
it
is obvious, you
can write and I know you get paid by the word.

I keep an old dead keyboard around just to remind me what a good one
feels
like. It is
one of those that go click before the key bottoms out.

Yeah. I used a Northgate Omni Key 101 for years, a writer's favorite,
until
it finally died. It clicked. I miss that sucker, but I've gotten used to
the
run-of-the-mill Dells, and I have a Logitech compact, but full-sized one
that I keep in my bag. They're good enough.


For surfing the Web, though, they're fine.

I hang out at a local library near work when my gun club has a meeting
to
kill time
between getting out of work and meeting time. The LT keyboard is good
enough for that
since I'm usually surfing or drawing something which is mostly mouse
driven. For some
reason my optical mouse doesn't like their table surfaces. Only place
I
have had that
problem so far.

I have a glass-topped dining room table, and whenever I try to use the
optical mouse on it, I'm reminded that light goes right through glass.
g

I've found a few surfaces that don't work with the optical. It needs some
texture or color contrast.

I've found that on those problem surfaces, a plain old piece of paper
works just fine as a mousepad.

You know, I've tried that, with mixed success. A smooth piece of quality
paper doesn't work with my (Microsoft and Logitech) mice. Any ordinary paper
works OK, but not great.

I usually grab an advertising flyer or something like that when I'm working
at the glass-topped table. Those work fine.

--
Ed Huntress

On Wed, 5 May 2010 10:52:06 -0400
"Ed Huntress" wrote:

"rangerssuck" wrote in message
...

I still have a couple of northgates. THere's a guy out there in web
land who repairs them and sells refurbished keyboards, as well as
replacement parts. There's never been a better keyboard, IMHO.

Certainly none that I've ever tried.

Focus FK-2001, typing on one right now, nice and clicky-clunky

I found this one at a St Vincent de Paul Thrift Store for ~$2.
I have two others stashed away but they don't have an extra
key where the newer keyboards put the left side Windows Logo
key. Using Linux now anyway which really doesn't use that key
for much. Had to replace the old AT cable & connector with a PS2 one,
but that isn't a very big deal. Never tried a Northgate, but I'm sure
it would be better than any of the crap they call a keyboard
nowadays...

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
Remove no.spam for email

On Wed, 05 May 2010 10:40:02 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2010-05-04, Ed Huntress wrote:

[ ... ]

Yeah. I used a Northgate Omni Key 101 for years, a writer's favorite, until
it finally died. It clicked. I miss that sucker, but I've gotten used to the
run-of-the-mill Dells, and I have a Logitech compact, but full-sized one
that I keep in my bag. They're good enough.

What failed on it? Did you ever try to fix it? Mine still
works. Built like a tank.

[ ... ]

I have a glass-topped dining room table, and whenever I try to use the
optical mouse on it, I'm reminded that light goes right through glass. g

I've found a few surfaces that don't work with the optical. It needs some
texture or color contrast.

Sun used to supply their optical mice with a sort of bluish hard
mousepad with a fine grid structure in it. The older ones used different
LED colors for the different axes -- red for one, IR for the other, and
if you turned the mouse pad 90 degrees, it would behave in a crazy
manner, so people at school computer centers sometimes used that as a
trick to "reserve" a workstation for their use. Everyone else would try
it, find that the mouse behaved strangely, and look for another
computers. When the originator came back, he would sit down, turn the
keypad back to the proper orientation, and work happily. :-)

The later optical mice used a different grid, though it looked
similar, it was not orientation sensitive.

The current optical mice use a camera and image processing. They do not
require any special mousepad and only have issues with perfectly smooth,
texture and contrast free surfaces. A piece of paper makes a suitable
mousepad in such cases.

Why is it that hotel operators think transparent glass would be a
splendid material for a hotel room work desk?

Spehro Pefhany wrote:

On Wed, 05 May 2010 10:40:02 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2010-05-04, Ed Huntress wrote:

[ ... ]

Yeah. I used a Northgate Omni Key 101 for years, a writer's favorite, until
it finally died. It clicked. I miss that sucker, but I've gotten used to the
run-of-the-mill Dells, and I have a Logitech compact, but full-sized one
that I keep in my bag. They're good enough.

What failed on it? Did you ever try to fix it? Mine still
works. Built like a tank.

[ ... ]

I have a glass-topped dining room table, and whenever I try to use the
optical mouse on it, I'm reminded that light goes right through glass. g

I've found a few surfaces that don't work with the optical. It needs some
texture or color contrast.

Sun used to supply their optical mice with a sort of bluish hard
mousepad with a fine grid structure in it. The older ones used different
LED colors for the different axes -- red for one, IR for the other, and
if you turned the mouse pad 90 degrees, it would behave in a crazy
manner, so people at school computer centers sometimes used that as a
trick to "reserve" a workstation for their use. Everyone else would try
it, find that the mouse behaved strangely, and look for another
computers. When the originator came back, he would sit down, turn the
keypad back to the proper orientation, and work happily. :-)

The later optical mice used a different grid, though it looked
similar, it was not orientation sensitive.

The current optical mice use a camera and image processing. They do not
require any special mousepad and only have issues with perfectly smooth,
texture and contrast free surfaces. A piece of paper makes a suitable
mousepad in such cases.

Why is it that hotel operators think transparent glass would be a
splendid material for a hotel room work desk?

Because the glass doesn't get burn marks from smokers leaving cigs on
the table in the non-smoking room. They also don't get the dings and
gouges that a wood top does. Grab a page from the guide book, often nice
paper with threads and whatnot and it works well as a mousepad.

"Pete C." on Wed, 05 May 2010 10:36:11 -0500
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:


starting at $0.01 (and $17.00 shipping. :-)

If USB sneakernet is fast enough for you, the 10Base-T speed would
be blazingly fast by comparison.

Anything which will work with 100BaseT will also work with
10BaseT -- just be slower.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

There is certainly no need for a hub if you are only trying to connect
two machines. A regular crossover cable will do the job just fine. A hub
won't save you from having to configure your network settings either, so
no advantage. Also these days nobody used hubs anyway since switches are
cheap. I keep a little Linksys SD205 5 port 10/100 switch on hand for
quick network setups.

Thanks for the advice. My main problem, it may turnout, is a dead
card. The OS (WinXP) sees fully functional ports and hubs, according
to device manager - but nothing works in them.

OT3H - wireless card has been suggested. May take a look at that.
-
pyotr filipivich
We will drink no whiskey before its nine.
It's eight fifty eight. Close enough!

On 5 May 2010 05:04:45 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote:

On 2010-05-04, pyotr filipivich wrote:
Wes on Mon, 03 May 2010 18:07:59 -0400
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
pyotr filipivich wrote:

I have a network cable, but apparently one cannot simply plug it
into the two ports on computers and make a simple home network. Now
_that_ is dumb. I'm updating the Sneakernet protocols to work with a
thumb drive. "Windows - it just works."

[ ... ]

Actually a hub or multiport repeater would be easiest.

H,mmmm, can I plug a usb cable into one machine, a hub into the
other, and then plug the USB from the one machine into the USB hub in
the other?

Well, yes, I can, but will it work the way I want it? I'd really
hate to find I'm dividing by zero and creating a black hole or a Higgs
boson generator, or some other minor catastrophe.

I strongly doubt that you could make it work unless you are
into writing USB driver software. Unless you can find someone who
wrote it and is offering it for sale or for free.

Just pick up a little 4-port ethernet hub. The software is
there for you in just about any OS which will run in the hardware with
the ethernet ports installed.

The first thing to come up on an eBay search for "ethernet hub"
is:

190393069147

a four-port hub 10BaseT (the older, slower form) for $1.99 (but only 20
minutes to go, so probably gone by the time you see this.

Here's a faster five-port one:

130387027304

starting at $0.01 (and $17.00 shipping. :-)

If USB sneakernet is fast enough for you, the 10Base-T speed would
be blazingly fast by comparison.

Anything which will work with 100BaseT will also work with
10BaseT -- just be slower.

Good Luck,
DoN.
USB file transfer IS possible - lots of companies advertise and sell
the cables, and I believe it is directly supported by Win XP. (Windows
EZ Transfer)
The cable has a driver chip of some sort in it though - not a simple
"twisted cable" connection.

On Wed, 05 May 2010 13:25:57 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

"Pete C." on Wed, 05 May 2010 10:36:11 -0500
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:


starting at $0.01 (and $17.00 shipping. :-)

If USB sneakernet is fast enough for you, the 10Base-T speed would
be blazingly fast by comparison.

Anything which will work with 100BaseT will also work with
10BaseT -- just be slower.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

There is certainly no need for a hub if you are only trying to connect
two machines. A regular crossover cable will do the job just fine. A hub
won't save you from having to configure your network settings either, so
no advantage. Also these days nobody used hubs anyway since switches are
cheap. I keep a little Linksys SD205 5 port 10/100 switch on hand for
quick network setups.

Thanks for the advice. My main problem, it may turnout, is a dead
card. The OS (WinXP) sees fully functional ports and hubs, according
to device manager - but nothing works in them.

OT3H - wireless card has been suggested. May take a look at that.
-
pyotr filipivich
We will drink no whiskey before its nine.
It's eight fifty eight. Close enough!

USB 3,4 and 5 port cards are available for less than $15

If you cant get one, I could probably find and send you one.

Gunner

--


"First Law of Leftist Debate
The more you present a leftist with factual evidence
that is counter to his preconceived world view and the
more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without
losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot,
homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned
race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to
the subject." Grey Ghost

Gunner Asch on Fri, 07 May 2010 09:53:31 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Wed, 05 May 2010 13:25:57 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

"Pete C." on Wed, 05 May 2010 10:36:11 -0500
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:


starting at $0.01 (and $17.00 shipping. :-)

If USB sneakernet is fast enough for you, the 10Base-T speed would
be blazingly fast by comparison.

Anything which will work with 100BaseT will also work with
10BaseT -- just be slower.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

There is certainly no need for a hub if you are only trying to connect
two machines. A regular crossover cable will do the job just fine. A hub
won't save you from having to configure your network settings either, so
no advantage. Also these days nobody used hubs anyway since switches are
cheap. I keep a little Linksys SD205 5 port 10/100 switch on hand for
quick network setups.

Thanks for the advice. My main problem, it may turnout, is a dead
card. The OS (WinXP) sees fully functional ports and hubs, according
to device manager - but nothing works in them.

OT3H - wireless card has been suggested. May take a look at that.
-
pyotr filipivich
We will drink no whiskey before its nine.
It's eight fifty eight. Close enough!

USB 3,4 and 5 port cards are available for less than $15

I may have to get another one. I think I may have broken the
little plastic gizmo which holds the socket in the sprocket.

Right now, I've got the thumb drive set up with a series of batch
files - I found Robocopy.exe does all the things I have wished
hardcopy would do. Oh, yes, now I are big damn guru type! (The Grand
Guru is the guy who has one more trick than you.)

If you cant get one, I could probably find and send you one.

Thanks, but I think I'll ransack my buddy's collection, next time
I'm over there.

tschus
pyotr
-
pyotr filipivich
We will drink no whiskey before its nine.
It's eight fifty eight. Close enough!

Gunner Asch on Fri, 07 May 2010 09:53:31 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Wed, 05 May 2010 13:25:57 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

"Pete C." on Wed, 05 May 2010 10:36:11 -0500
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:


starting at $0.01 (and $17.00 shipping. :-)

If USB sneakernet is fast enough for you, the 10Base-T speed would
be blazingly fast by comparison.

Anything which will work with 100BaseT will also work with
10BaseT -- just be slower.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

There is certainly no need for a hub if you are only trying to connect
two machines. A regular crossover cable will do the job just fine. A hub
won't save you from having to configure your network settings either, so
no advantage. Also these days nobody used hubs anyway since switches are
cheap. I keep a little Linksys SD205 5 port 10/100 switch on hand for
quick network setups.

Thanks for the advice. My main problem, it may turnout, is a dead
card. The OS (WinXP) sees fully functional ports and hubs, according
to device manager - but nothing works in them.

OT3H - wireless card has been suggested. May take a look at that.
-
pyotr filipivich
We will drink no whiskey before its nine.
It's eight fifty eight. Close enough!

USB 3,4 and 5 port cards are available for less than $15

If you cant get one, I could probably find and send you one.

Oh, and the cool part, I found an Ethernet hub in my pile of
stuff. It hadn't sold at the rummage sale.

now to find the fiddly bits - power supply, cables...
-
pyotr filipivich
We will drink no whiskey before its nine.
It's eight fifty eight. Close enough!

pyotr filipivich on Mon, 10 May 2010 00:51:44
-0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
Gunner Asch on Fri, 07 May 2010 09:53:31 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Wed, 05 May 2010 13:25:57 -0700, pyotr filipivich
wrote:

"Pete C." on Wed, 05 May 2010 10:36:11 -0500
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:


starting at $0.01 (and $17.00 shipping. :-)

If USB sneakernet is fast enough for you, the 10Base-T speed would
be blazingly fast by comparison.

Anything which will work with 100BaseT will also work with
10BaseT -- just be slower.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

There is certainly no need for a hub if you are only trying to connect
two machines. A regular crossover cable will do the job just fine. A hub
won't save you from having to configure your network settings either, so
no advantage. Also these days nobody used hubs anyway since switches are
cheap. I keep a little Linksys SD205 5 port 10/100 switch on hand for
quick network setups.

Thanks for the advice. My main problem, it may turnout, is a dead
card. The OS (WinXP) sees fully functional ports and hubs, according
to device manager - but nothing works in them.

OT3H - wireless card has been suggested. May take a look at that.
-
pyotr filipivich
We will drink no whiskey before its nine.
It's eight fifty eight. Close enough!

USB 3,4 and 5 port cards are available for less than $15

I may have to get another one. I think I may have broken the
little plastic gizmo which holds the socket in the sprocket.

Right now, I've got the thumb drive set up with a series of batch
files - I found Robocopy.exe does all the things I have wished
hardcopy would do.

that's suppose to be "Xcopy". Blasted spell checkers.

Oh, yes, now I are big damn guru type! (The Grand
Guru is the guy who has one more trick than you.)

If you cant get one, I could probably find and send you one.

Thanks, but I think I'll ransack my buddy's collection, next time
I'm over there.

tschus
pyotr
-
pyotr filipivich
We will drink no whiskey before its nine.
It's eight fifty eight. Close enough!
-
pyotr filipivich
We will drink no whiskey before its nine.
It's eight fifty eight. Close enough!