Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default Tapered pin or split collar

We have to replace a 6" diameter x 1.5" wide cast iron gear that has two
broken teeth. It's in the middle of a 4' long 1.25" dia. shaft. The
original gear was pinned to the shaft with a .5" taper pin through a boss on
the gear, but the pin bore was drilled and reamed by hand at the factory and
it's not centered. A mechanic wants to try to hit the tapered hole in the
shaft and I don't think that will ever work. If anything, the new pin
should go 90 degrees from the original.

My idea is to turn down the boss from 2.75" to 2.25" and saw-cut across the
boss in two places (+) and clamp the gear on the shaft with a split collar
on the bisected boss. I think it'll hold almost as good as the pin.


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Default Tapered pin or split collar

Buerste wrote:
We have to replace a 6" diameter x 1.5" wide cast iron gear that has two
broken teeth. It's in the middle of a 4' long 1.25" dia. shaft. The
original gear was pinned to the shaft with a .5" taper pin through a boss on
the gear, but the pin bore was drilled and reamed by hand at the factory and
it's not centered. A mechanic wants to try to hit the tapered hole in the
shaft and I don't think that will ever work. If anything, the new pin
should go 90 degrees from the original.

My idea is to turn down the boss from 2.75" to 2.25" and saw-cut across the
boss in two places (+) and clamp the gear on the shaft with a split collar
on the bisected boss. I think it'll hold almost as good as the pin.





put the shaft in a Bridgeport or other vertical and hold the thing with
a steady rest on each end. Line up the hole with the drill and then
slide the shaft to where you want to drill the hole... then drill it and
then ream it for the pin... Make sure you index mark the gear to the
shaft because it will only go on one way, Also make sure you ream the
hole the same way the old taper goes in the shaft

John
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Default Tapered pin or split collar


"Buerste" wrote in message
...
We have to replace a 6" diameter x 1.5" wide cast iron gear that has two
broken teeth. It's in the middle of a 4' long 1.25" dia. shaft. The
original gear was pinned to the shaft with a .5" taper pin through a boss
on the gear, but the pin bore was drilled and reamed by hand at the
factory and it's not centered. A mechanic wants to try to hit the tapered
hole in the shaft and I don't think that will ever work. If anything, the
new pin should go 90 degrees from the original.

My idea is to turn down the boss from 2.75" to 2.25" and saw-cut across
the boss in two places (+) and clamp the gear on the shaft with a split
collar on the bisected boss. I think it'll hold almost as good as the
pin.


It may hold, but you're taking a chance putting a highly-loaded chunk of
cast iron under stress while it's simultaneously under another load -- the
shear load that will appear between the inner diameter of the gear and the
split collar.

The tapered pin was there for a reason.

Why not get a steel gear to replace it? That would solve your problem; the
clamp should work fine.

--
Ed Huntress


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Default Tapered pin or split collar

Ed Huntress wrote:
wrote in message
...
We have to replace a 6" diameter x 1.5" wide cast iron gear that has two
broken teeth. It's in the middle of a 4' long 1.25" dia. shaft. The
original gear was pinned to the shaft with a .5" taper pin through a boss
on the gear, but the pin bore was drilled and reamed by hand at the
factory and it's not centered. A mechanic wants to try to hit the tapered
hole in the shaft and I don't think that will ever work. If anything, the
new pin should go 90 degrees from the original.

My idea is to turn down the boss from 2.75" to 2.25" and saw-cut across
the boss in two places (+) and clamp the gear on the shaft with a split
collar on the bisected boss. I think it'll hold almost as good as the
pin.


It may hold, but you're taking a chance putting a highly-loaded chunk of
cast iron under stress while it's simultaneously under another load -- the
shear load that will appear between the inner diameter of the gear and the
split collar.

The tapered pin was there for a reason.

Why not get a steel gear to replace it? That would solve your problem; the
clamp should work fine.



A good right winger could weld it and then say a prayer that it will
hold for ten years.


John
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Default Tapered pin or split collar


"John" wrote in message
...
Buerste wrote:
We have to replace a 6" diameter x 1.5" wide cast iron gear that has two
broken teeth. It's in the middle of a 4' long 1.25" dia. shaft. The
original gear was pinned to the shaft with a .5" taper pin through a boss
on
the gear, but the pin bore was drilled and reamed by hand at the factory
and
it's not centered. A mechanic wants to try to hit the tapered hole in
the
shaft and I don't think that will ever work. If anything, the new pin
should go 90 degrees from the original.

My idea is to turn down the boss from 2.75" to 2.25" and saw-cut across
the
boss in two places (+) and clamp the gear on the shaft with a split
collar
on the bisected boss. I think it'll hold almost as good as the pin.





put the shaft in a Bridgeport or other vertical and hold the thing with a
steady rest on each end. Line up the hole with the drill and then slide
the shaft to where you want to drill the hole... then drill it and then
ream it for the pin... Make sure you index mark the gear to the shaft
because it will only go on one way, Also make sure you ream the hole the
same way the old taper goes in the shaft

John


The shaft has 10 things on it, mostly on the left side. To remove the gear
from the right only involves 3 things. To remove the shaft and get
everything timed again is a major undertaking. But, you're idea is valid
and would work.




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Default Tapered pin or split collar

Buerste wrote:
wrote in message
...
Buerste wrote:
We have to replace a 6" diameter x 1.5" wide cast iron gear that has two
broken teeth. It's in the middle of a 4' long 1.25" dia. shaft. The
original gear was pinned to the shaft with a .5" taper pin through a boss
on
the gear, but the pin bore was drilled and reamed by hand at the factory
and
it's not centered. A mechanic wants to try to hit the tapered hole in
the
shaft and I don't think that will ever work. If anything, the new pin
should go 90 degrees from the original.

My idea is to turn down the boss from 2.75" to 2.25" and saw-cut across
the
boss in two places (+) and clamp the gear on the shaft with a split
collar
on the bisected boss. I think it'll hold almost as good as the pin.





put the shaft in a Bridgeport or other vertical and hold the thing with a
steady rest on each end. Line up the hole with the drill and then slide
the shaft to where you want to drill the hole... then drill it and then
ream it for the pin... Make sure you index mark the gear to the shaft
because it will only go on one way, Also make sure you ream the hole the
same way the old taper goes in the shaft

John


The shaft has 10 things on it, mostly on the left side. To remove the gear
from the right only involves 3 things. To remove the shaft and get
everything timed again is a major undertaking. But, you're idea is valid
and would work.




Get a Mag drill and do the same thing right on the machine.


John
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Default Tapered pin or split collar

John wrote:
Buerste wrote:
wrote in message
...
Buerste wrote:
We have to replace a 6" diameter x 1.5" wide cast iron gear that has
two
broken teeth. It's in the middle of a 4' long 1.25" dia. shaft. The
original gear was pinned to the shaft with a .5" taper pin through a
boss
on
the gear, but the pin bore was drilled and reamed by hand at the
factory
and
it's not centered. A mechanic wants to try to hit the tapered hole in
the
shaft and I don't think that will ever work. If anything, the new pin
should go 90 degrees from the original.

My idea is to turn down the boss from 2.75" to 2.25" and saw-cut across
the
boss in two places (+) and clamp the gear on the shaft with a split
collar
on the bisected boss. I think it'll hold almost as good as the pin.





put the shaft in a Bridgeport or other vertical and hold the thing
with a
steady rest on each end. Line up the hole with the drill and then slide
the shaft to where you want to drill the hole... then drill it and then
ream it for the pin... Make sure you index mark the gear to the shaft
because it will only go on one way, Also make sure you ream the hole the
same way the old taper goes in the shaft

John


The shaft has 10 things on it, mostly on the left side. To remove the
gear
from the right only involves 3 things. To remove the shaft and get
everything timed again is a major undertaking. But, you're idea is valid
and would work.




Get a Mag drill and do the same thing right on the machine.


John




another way would be to line up on the hole on the old gear mounted on a
spare shaft like in my first post, drill the shaft, remove the gear
and put the new gear on the shaft and drill.
Ream for the pin after the gear is in the new shaft.

John
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Default Tapered pin or split collar

On Thu, 29 Apr 2010 22:02:08 -0400, "Buerste"
wrote:

We have to replace a 6" diameter x 1.5" wide cast iron gear that has two
broken teeth. It's in the middle of a 4' long 1.25" dia. shaft. The
original gear was pinned to the shaft with a .5" taper pin through a boss on
the gear, but the pin bore was drilled and reamed by hand at the factory and
it's not centered. A mechanic wants to try to hit the tapered hole in the
shaft and I don't think that will ever work. If anything, the new pin
should go 90 degrees from the original.

My idea is to turn down the boss from 2.75" to 2.25" and saw-cut across the
boss in two places (+) and clamp the gear on the shaft with a split collar
on the bisected boss. I think it'll hold almost as good as the pin.


http://www.fennerdrives.com/keyless_..._bushings.aspx
or
http://www.fennerdrives.com/keyless_...torque_gt.aspx

--
Ned Simmons
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Default Tapered pin or split collar

This is not so difficult, but you must never drill another hole in the shaft....it will certainly fail. You can either remove the
shaft and place it in a Bridgeport or use a Mag drill as has been suggested, but centering the hole is essential. You cannot
center the hole with a drill, as it is tapered. You must center the hole with a tapered reamer chucked in the Bridgeport. Once
centered remove the reamer, chuck the minimum diameter drill, then slide the new gear in place over the shaft hole and drill. Then
ream the shaft and gear together to size. Replacement pins come in extended lengths, you may need one, as the new reaming
operation will cause the pin to seat deeper in the assembly.

Now, I have done this with a hand drill as well, but you have to be very careful. To do this, drill the large diameter hole on the
new gear to the minimum size on only one side of the bore. Place the gear over the hole in the shaft. Place the minimum size drill
through the hole in the gear and shaft together. Balance the center as good as you can and drill the other side of the gear in
place. Clean well and ream everything together and hope you have a taper pin the fits at right depth..
Steve


"Buerste" wrote in message ...
We have to replace a 6" diameter x 1.5" wide cast iron gear that has two broken teeth. It's in the middle of a 4' long 1.25"
dia. shaft. The original gear was pinned to the shaft with a .5" taper pin through a boss on the gear, but the pin bore was
drilled and reamed by hand at the factory and it's not centered. A mechanic wants to try to hit the tapered hole in the shaft
and I don't think that will ever work. If anything, the new pin should go 90 degrees from the original.

My idea is to turn down the boss from 2.75" to 2.25" and saw-cut across the boss in two places (+) and clamp the gear on the
shaft with a split collar on the bisected boss. I think it'll hold almost as good as the pin.


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Default Tapered pin or split collar

On Thu, 29 Apr 2010 22:02:08 -0400, "Buerste" wrote:

We have to replace a 6" diameter x 1.5" wide cast iron gear that has two
broken teeth. It's in the middle of a 4' long 1.25" dia. shaft. The
original gear was pinned to the shaft with a .5" taper pin through a boss on
the gear, but the pin bore was drilled and reamed by hand at the factory and
it's not centered. A mechanic wants to try to hit the tapered hole in the
shaft and I don't think that will ever work. If anything, the new pin
should go 90 degrees from the original.


length of 1.25" bar clamped to V block high enough for gear to slide on,
sticking out far enough for pin holes in boss to be clear of bar. Sat loose.
on mill table. Taper pin reamer in collet in mill. Put gear on bar. Align gear
with reamer in collar. Clamp V block to table. Remove old gear. slide new gear
on. Dab of Loctite or nut + washer to retain on bar. Step drill hole, ream.
Finish ream in place. Done :-)

It has worked for me!


Regards
Mark Rand
RTFM


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Default Tapered pin or split collar

On 2010-04-30, John wrote:
Buerste wrote:
We have to replace a 6" diameter x 1.5" wide cast iron gear that has two
broken teeth. It's in the middle of a 4' long 1.25" dia. shaft. The
original gear was pinned to the shaft with a .5" taper pin through a boss on
the gear, but the pin bore was drilled and reamed by hand at the factory and
it's not centered. A mechanic wants to try to hit the tapered hole in the
shaft and I don't think that will ever work. If anything, the new pin
should go 90 degrees from the original.

My idea is to turn down the boss from 2.75" to 2.25" and saw-cut across the
boss in two places (+) and clamp the gear on the shaft with a split collar
on the bisected boss. I think it'll hold almost as good as the pin.





put the shaft in a Bridgeport or other vertical and hold the thing with
a steady rest on each end. Line up the hole with the drill and then
slide the shaft to where you want to drill the hole... then drill it and
then ream it for the pin... Make sure you index mark the gear to the
shaft because it will only go on one way, Also make sure you ream the
hole the same way the old taper goes in the shaft


How about put the taper pin reamer in the collet or chuck, and
use it to position the original hole properly under the spindle (and
clamp firmly). Then slide the gear in place and drill the pilot hole
and ream it to fit with the original hole -- probably ream just a little
deeper and use a longer taper pin. (hmm ... you may need an extension
on the drill bit and on the reamer to reach with a 16" diameter gear,
depending on how long the boss is.

Good luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
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Default Tapered pin or split collar

John wrote:
Ed Huntress wrote:
wrote in message
...
We have to replace a 6" diameter x 1.5" wide cast iron gear that has two
broken teeth. It's in the middle of a 4' long 1.25" dia. shaft. The
original gear was pinned to the shaft with a .5" taper pin through a
boss
on the gear, but the pin bore was drilled and reamed by hand at the
factory and it's not centered. A mechanic wants to try to hit the
tapered
hole in the shaft and I don't think that will ever work. If anything,
the
new pin should go 90 degrees from the original.

My idea is to turn down the boss from 2.75" to 2.25" and saw-cut across
the boss in two places (+) and clamp the gear on the shaft with a split
collar on the bisected boss. I think it'll hold almost as good as the
pin.


It may hold, but you're taking a chance putting a highly-loaded chunk of
cast iron under stress while it's simultaneously under another load --
the
shear load that will appear between the inner diameter of the gear and
the
split collar.

The tapered pin was there for a reason.

Why not get a steel gear to replace it? That would solve your problem;
the
clamp should work fine.



A good right winger could weld it and then say a prayer that it will
hold for ten years.

And a left winger could pass a stimulus bill to pay
disadvantaged people to turn the shaft by hand...



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Default Tapered pin or split collar

"Buerste" wrote:

We have to replace a 6" diameter x 1.5" wide cast iron gear that has two
broken teeth. It's in the middle of a 4' long 1.25" dia. shaft. The
original gear was pinned to the shaft with a .5" taper pin through a boss on
the gear, but the pin bore was drilled and reamed by hand at the factory and
it's not centered. A mechanic wants to try to hit the tapered hole in the
shaft and I don't think that will ever work. If anything, the new pin
should go 90 degrees from the original.

My idea is to turn down the boss from 2.75" to 2.25" and saw-cut across the
boss in two places (+) and clamp the gear on the shaft with a split collar
on the bisected boss. I think it'll hold almost as good as the pin.


So what was the outcome?

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller
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