Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default Fast CNC & WD

Ok... my little toy mill is never going to scream like some of those
machines featured in YouTube videos, but I was able to do some much faster
than normal cutting in the last couple days. A lot of times I have to leave
the machine running when making an aluminum part while I go off and do other
things. I've found mostly I can take off .001 to .003 per pass dry cutting
with the smaller cutters at a moderate speed. .125 cutters and bigger I can
be a little bit more aggressive, but I can bog down my stepper motors. I
made a fishing bait injection mold this last week in my spare time, and
since it was just a cavity as soon as the cavity got some depth I filled it
up with WD40 and left it to run. Never a single gum up or crash in 8-10
hours of machining. Not great for some of you guys, but awesome for me.

While doing a simulation run on one pocket to see how long it would take to
run I accidently started a script halfway through. Instead of crashing it
just cut. Did a pretty good job, and since it was not trashing the piece I
just let it run from there. I could only credit the WD40 I was spraying on
the aluminum. Nothing else was different.

I finished both plates of my mold and proceeded to cut sprue vents. It's a
detailed piece so rather than cut a bunch of individual sprues I cut a long
ball milled groove the length of the mold and then cut smaller vents over to
the main vent from each major detail. Anyway, for some reason I thought I
could cut the main vent in one pass... or I got in a hurry and didn't think.
..125 diameter ball mill .0625 deep in one pass. Ordinarily I would have
jammed the cutter almost immediately, but I got nearly an inch before it
stuck and the stepper would not push it. Oops. The first part of the cut
looked as good as a finish pass. Hmmm...

I was using the jog mode to make this cut.

I decided to play. This mold is a prototype anyway. I backed up the cutter
and looked at the whole work piece and realized that the entire piece was
coated in WD-40. I started my cut again and ran it at 20 IPM and just kept
hitting it with a burst of WD every half inch. It made a very nice looking
finish quality (appearance) cut in one pass. WOW! I moved the table and
proceeded to cut my main vent on the other side. Same thing except I played
with it a little bit and held off the WD some just to see. Consistently if
I stopped spraying it would stop at about one inch of travel. If I kept
tapping my spray trigger it just zipped through the work piece. Ordinarily
for something like that I would have written a code snippet to take off
about .003 per pass and then left it to run.

I really need to get back to work on my coolant rig.

For those who deride WD as a coolant / lubricant. It does wonders on
Aluminum. I know and have seen that I get faster results with the WD, but
some of my projects have cut times so long I can't stand there and spray
regardless. I just had never realized HOW MUCH difference it makes. I am
talking an order of magnitude difference. We aren't talking a 20-50%
improvement in efficiency, but in this particular experiment nearly 2000%.

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Default Fast CNC & WD


Bob La Londe wrote:

Ok... my little toy mill is never going to scream like some of those
machines featured in YouTube videos, but I was able to do some much faster
than normal cutting in the last couple days. A lot of times I have to leave
the machine running when making an aluminum part while I go off and do other
things. I've found mostly I can take off .001 to .003 per pass dry cutting
with the smaller cutters at a moderate speed. .125 cutters and bigger I can
be a little bit more aggressive, but I can bog down my stepper motors. I
made a fishing bait injection mold this last week in my spare time, and
since it was just a cavity as soon as the cavity got some depth I filled it
up with WD40 and left it to run. Never a single gum up or crash in 8-10
hours of machining. Not great for some of you guys, but awesome for me.

While doing a simulation run on one pocket to see how long it would take to
run I accidently started a script halfway through. Instead of crashing it
just cut. Did a pretty good job, and since it was not trashing the piece I
just let it run from there. I could only credit the WD40 I was spraying on
the aluminum. Nothing else was different.

I finished both plates of my mold and proceeded to cut sprue vents. It's a
detailed piece so rather than cut a bunch of individual sprues I cut a long
ball milled groove the length of the mold and then cut smaller vents over to
the main vent from each major detail. Anyway, for some reason I thought I
could cut the main vent in one pass... or I got in a hurry and didn't think.
.125 diameter ball mill .0625 deep in one pass. Ordinarily I would have
jammed the cutter almost immediately, but I got nearly an inch before it
stuck and the stepper would not push it. Oops. The first part of the cut
looked as good as a finish pass. Hmmm...

I was using the jog mode to make this cut.

I decided to play. This mold is a prototype anyway. I backed up the cutter
and looked at the whole work piece and realized that the entire piece was
coated in WD-40. I started my cut again and ran it at 20 IPM and just kept
hitting it with a burst of WD every half inch. It made a very nice looking
finish quality (appearance) cut in one pass. WOW! I moved the table and
proceeded to cut my main vent on the other side. Same thing except I played
with it a little bit and held off the WD some just to see. Consistently if
I stopped spraying it would stop at about one inch of travel. If I kept
tapping my spray trigger it just zipped through the work piece. Ordinarily
for something like that I would have written a code snippet to take off
about .003 per pass and then left it to run.

I really need to get back to work on my coolant rig.

For those who deride WD as a coolant / lubricant. It does wonders on
Aluminum. I know and have seen that I get faster results with the WD, but
some of my projects have cut times so long I can't stand there and spray
regardless. I just had never realized HOW MUCH difference it makes. I am
talking an order of magnitude difference. We aren't talking a 20-50%
improvement in efficiency, but in this particular experiment nearly 2000%.


I mostly cut dry on my Bridgeport. I find Kroil works well for tapping
in aluminum, for tapping in steel I use regular cutting oil.
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Default Fast CNC & WD

Pete C. wrote:
Bob La Londe wrote:



For those who deride WD as a coolant / lubricant. It does wonders on
Aluminum. I know and have seen that I get faster results with the
WD, but some of my projects have cut times so long I can't stand
there and spray regardless. I just had never realized HOW MUCH
difference it makes. I am talking an order of magnitude difference.
We aren't talking a 20-50% improvement in efficiency, but in this
particular experiment nearly 2000%.


I mostly cut dry on my Bridgeport. I find Kroil works well for tapping
in aluminum, for tapping in steel I use regular cutting oil.


I usually cut dry too , but I've been machining some pieces I recently
cast from aluminum scrap (car wheels) and it's pretty gummy . Since I have a
case of NAPA penetrating lubricant (thanks son!) I decided to try it ...
worlds of difference !
I think almost any light oil/solvent would give the same results - haven't
I heard of people using diesel fuel or kero as a cutting fluid ?
--
Snag
"90 FLHTCU "Strider"
'39 WLDD "PopCycle"
BS 132/SENS/DOF


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Default Fast CNC & WD

Bob La Londe wrote:

For those who deride WD as a coolant / lubricant. It does wonders on
Aluminum. I know and have seen that I get faster results with the WD,
but some of my projects have cut times so long I can't stand there and
spray regardless. I just had never realized HOW MUCH difference it
makes. I am talking an order of magnitude difference. We aren't
talking a 20-50% improvement in efficiency, but in this particular
experiment nearly 2000%.


WD-40 works great with AL. The problem is that
it's flammable. Nobody wants their $100k CNC
mill to go up in a cloud of flame and smoke.
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Default Fast CNC & WD

Snag wrote:
Pete C. wrote:
Bob La Londe wrote:


For those who deride WD as a coolant / lubricant. It does wonders on
Aluminum. I know and have seen that I get faster results with the
WD, but some of my projects have cut times so long I can't stand
there and spray regardless. I just had never realized HOW MUCH
difference it makes. I am talking an order of magnitude difference.
We aren't talking a 20-50% improvement in efficiency, but in this
particular experiment nearly 2000%.

I mostly cut dry on my Bridgeport. I find Kroil works well for tapping
in aluminum, for tapping in steel I use regular cutting oil.


I usually cut dry too , but I've been machining some pieces I recently
cast from aluminum scrap (car wheels) and it's pretty gummy . Since I have a
case of NAPA penetrating lubricant (thanks son!) I decided to try it ...
worlds of difference !
I think almost any light oil/solvent would give the same results - haven't
I heard of people using diesel fuel or kero as a cutting fluid ?


Were the wheels gummy, or did they have a nice heat treat to them? I
have heard that there's a world of difference to be made in the
machinability of cast aluminum just by proper heat treating. I would
assume, however, that (a) you have to start with the right stuff, (b)
you have to know what to do.

It'd be nice to know how easy it is to start with scrap aluminum that is
obviously able to take a heat treat, melt it down, cast it up, and heat
treat it. Clearly buying blocks of ready-to-cast alloy is the 'real'
way to go, but the notion of buying mowers or broken wheels for a buck a
pop and melting them down has lots more appeal.

--
Tim Wescott
Control system and signal processing consulting
www.wescottdesign.com


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Default Fast CNC & WD

On 4/21/2010 7:48 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
Ok... my little toy mill is never going to scream like some of those
machines featured in YouTube videos,


(...)

I am talking an order of magnitude difference. We aren't talking
a 20-50% improvement in efficiency, but in this particular experiment
nearly 2000%.


The active ingredient in WD appears to be Mineral Spirits available in
1 gallon jugs for less than 10 bucks from the big box stores.

So less than 8c/oz vs 30c/oz. for WD.

I would be very interested in your test results using Mineral Spirits
as a cutting fluid for aluminum.

Thanks Bob!

--Winston


--

Gary was a liar, a thief, a scoundrel and a psychologist.
He was the most redundant man I ever met.
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Tim Wescott wrote:
Snag wrote:
Pete C. wrote:
Bob La Londe wrote:


For those who deride WD as a coolant / lubricant. It does wonders
on Aluminum. I know and have seen that I get faster results with
the WD, but some of my projects have cut times so long I can't
stand there and spray regardless. I just had never realized HOW
MUCH difference it makes. I am talking an order of magnitude
difference. We aren't talking a 20-50% improvement in efficiency,
but in this particular experiment nearly 2000%.
I mostly cut dry on my Bridgeport. I find Kroil works well for
tapping in aluminum, for tapping in steel I use regular cutting oil.


I usually cut dry too , but I've been machining some pieces I
recently cast from aluminum scrap (car wheels) and it's pretty gummy
. Since I have a case of NAPA penetrating lubricant (thanks son!) I
decided to try it ... worlds of difference !
I think almost any light oil/solvent would give the same results -
haven't I heard of people using diesel fuel or kero as a cutting
fluid ?


Were the wheels gummy, or did they have a nice heat treat to them? I
have heard that there's a world of difference to be made in the
machinability of cast aluminum just by proper heat treating.


I didn't try to machine the wheels ...

I would
assume, however, that (a) you have to start with the right stuff, (b)
you have to know what to do.


The alloy of these wheels is unknown , but they were probably an a356
type alloy . They were almost certainly heat treated , just about all
aluminum is . The exception is extrusions .
Chilling the casting fresh from the sand helps , but without the proper
equipment there's small chance that a home shop will successfully heat treat
aluminum .

It'd be nice to know how easy it is to start with scrap aluminum that
is obviously able to take a heat treat, melt it down, cast it up, and
heat treat it. Clearly buying blocks of ready-to-cast alloy is the
'real' way to go, but the notion of buying mowers or broken wheels
for a buck a pop and melting them down has lots more appeal.

--
Tim Wescott
Control system and signal processing consulting
www.wescottdesign.com


I'm kinda choosy about my melts , I try not to mix sources . Every batch
of ingots is identified as to source . So far Old Chevy Head is my favorite
for post-cast machining . Extrudium is the worst ...
But it all cuts better with some lube .
--
Snag
"90 FLHTCU "Strider"
'39 WLDD "PopCycle"
BS 132/SENS/DOF


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Default Fast CNC & WD

Winston wrote:
On 4/21/2010 7:48 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
Ok... my little toy mill is never going to scream like some of those
machines featured in YouTube videos,


(...)

I am talking an order of magnitude difference. We aren't talking
a 20-50% improvement in efficiency, but in this particular experiment
nearly 2000%.


The active ingredient in WD appears to be Mineral Spirits available in
1 gallon jugs for less than 10 bucks from the big box stores.

So less than 8c/oz vs 30c/oz. for WD.

I would be very interested in your test results using Mineral Spirits
as a cutting fluid for aluminum.


Kerosene will work equally well.

--
John R. Carroll


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"John R. Carroll" wrote in message
...
Winston wrote:
On 4/21/2010 7:48 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
Ok... my little toy mill is never going to scream like some of those
machines featured in YouTube videos,


(...)

I am talking an order of magnitude difference. We aren't talking
a 20-50% improvement in efficiency, but in this particular experiment
nearly 2000%.


The active ingredient in WD appears to be Mineral Spirits available in
1 gallon jugs for less than 10 bucks from the big box stores.

So less than 8c/oz vs 30c/oz. for WD.

I would be very interested in your test results using Mineral Spirits
as a cutting fluid for aluminum.


Kerosene will work equally well.

--
John R. Carroll



John, I think I remember you're a pro machinist from AMC. I used to lurk
there till the OT made it useless. Anyway, I use toilet water (water and 6%
soluble oil) on AL - flood on the CHNC lathe and heavy zero fog mist on the
mill. I used to use oil in the CHNC but didn't like the mess in the shop.
Just curious, does anybody use kerosene in machines like this? It would
slowly evaporate and not leave an oil film on everything.

Karl


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Default Fast CNC & WD

Karl Townsend wrote:
"John R. Carroll" wrote in message
...
Winston wrote:
On 4/21/2010 7:48 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
Ok... my little toy mill is never going to scream like some of
those machines featured in YouTube videos,

(...)

I am talking an order of magnitude difference. We aren't talking
a 20-50% improvement in efficiency, but in this particular
experiment nearly 2000%.

The active ingredient in WD appears to be Mineral Spirits available
in 1 gallon jugs for less than 10 bucks from the big box stores.

So less than 8c/oz vs 30c/oz. for WD.

I would be very interested in your test results using Mineral
Spirits as a cutting fluid for aluminum.


Kerosene will work equally well.



John, I think I remember you're a pro machinist from AMC. I used to
lurk there till the OT made it useless. Anyway, I use toilet water
(water and 6% soluble oil) on AL - flood on the CHNC lathe and heavy
zero fog mist on the mill. I used to use oil in the CHNC but didn't
like the mess in the shop. Just curious, does anybody use kerosene in
machines like this? It would slowly evaporate and not leave an oil
film on everything.


Vegetable oil or, if you can get it, real cutting oil.

http://www.blaser.com/index.cfm?type=land

See Vascomill 22. It's one of the premium cutting oils for milling machines
these days.
You can't really convert a machine from soluble to oil, however. Not without
some major contortions.
Even then, a big milling machine will take a couple hundred gallons and VM22
is expensive, about $20.00 per gallon.
You would want to clean it and dry everything our disassembled just to get
started.

Wes could probably tell you what they use on his job.

--
John R. Carroll





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Default Fast CNC & WD

On Wed, 21 Apr 2010 10:27:22 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:

snip

I mostly cut dry on my Bridgeport. I find Kroil works well for tapping
in aluminum, for tapping in steel I use regular cutting oil.



Never thought of using Kroil as a _lube_

Thanks for the idea!
rgentry at oz dot net
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On Apr 21, 10:48*am, "Bob La Londe" wrote:
Ok... *my little toy mill is never going to scream like some of those
machines featured in YouTube videos, but I was able to do some much faster
than normal cutting in the last couple days. *A lot of times I have to leave
the machine running when making an aluminum part while I go off and do other
things. *I've found mostly I can take off .001 to .003 per pass dry cutting
with the smaller cutters at a moderate speed. *.125 cutters and bigger I can
be a little bit more aggressive, but I can bog down my stepper motors. *I
made a fishing bait injection mold this last week in my spare time, and
since it was just a cavity as soon as the cavity got some depth I filled it
up with WD40 and left it to run. *Never a single gum up or crash in 8-10
hours of machining. *Not great for some of you guys, but awesome for me..

While doing a simulation run on one pocket to see how long it would take to
run I accidently started a script halfway through. *Instead of crashing it
just cut. *Did a pretty good job, and since it was not trashing the piece I
just let it run from there. *I could only credit the WD40 I was spraying on
the aluminum. *Nothing else was different.

I finished both plates of my mold and proceeded to cut sprue vents. *It's a
detailed piece so rather than cut a bunch of individual sprues I cut a long
ball milled groove the length of the mold and then cut smaller vents over to
the main vent from each major detail. *Anyway, for some reason I thought I
could cut the main vent in one pass... or I got in a hurry and didn't think.
.125 diameter ball mill .0625 deep in one pass. *Ordinarily I would have
jammed the cutter almost immediately, but I got nearly an inch before it
stuck and the stepper would not push it. *Oops. *The first part of the cut
looked as good as a finish pass. *Hmmm...

I was using the jog mode to make this cut.

I decided to play. *This mold is a prototype anyway. *I backed up the cutter
and looked at the whole work piece and realized that the entire piece was
coated in WD-40. *I started my cut again and ran it at 20 IPM and just kept
hitting it with a burst of WD every half inch. *It made a very nice looking
finish quality (appearance) cut in one pass. *WOW! *I moved the table and
proceeded to cut my main vent on the other side. *Same thing except I played
with it a little bit and held off the WD some just to see. *Consistently if
I stopped spraying it would stop at about one inch of travel. *If I kept
tapping my spray trigger it just zipped through the work piece. *Ordinarily
for something like that I would have written a code snippet to take off
about .003 per pass and then left it to run.

I really need to get back to work on my coolant rig.

For those who deride WD as a coolant / lubricant. *It does wonders on
Aluminum. *I know and have seen that I get faster results with the WD, but
some of my projects have cut times so long I can't stand there and spray
regardless. *I just had never realized HOW MUCH difference it makes. *I am
talking an order of magnitude difference. *We aren't talking a 20-50%
improvement in efficiency, but in this particular experiment nearly 2000%..


Not the strangest lube...
I forget what its used on, but the hot-ticket for lubing some type of
metal was carbon-tet... tapping aluminum?
Milk is another good one for some op on some metal (memory not good
before the coffee does its work...)

Dave
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On 4/21/2010 1:16 PM, John R. Carroll wrote:
Winston wrote:
On 4/21/2010 7:48 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
Ok... my little toy mill is never going to scream like some of those
machines featured in YouTube videos,


(...)

I am talking an order of magnitude difference. We aren't talking
a 20-50% improvement in efficiency, but in this particular experiment
nearly 2000%.


The active ingredient in WD appears to be Mineral Spirits available in
1 gallon jugs for less than 10 bucks from the big box stores.

So less than 8c/oz vs 30c/oz. for WD.

I would be very interested in your test results using Mineral Spirits
as a cutting fluid for aluminum.


Kerosene will work equally well.


Does that mean I could use diesel fuel at $3.40 a gallon
(or less than 3c per oz.)?

--Winston


--

Gary was a liar, a thief, a scoundrel and a psychologist.
He was the most redundant man I ever met.
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Winston wrote:
On 4/21/2010 1:16 PM, John R. Carroll wrote:
Winston wrote:
On 4/21/2010 7:48 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
Ok... my little toy mill is never going to scream like some of
those machines featured in YouTube videos,

(...)

I am talking an order of magnitude difference. We aren't talking
a 20-50% improvement in efficiency, but in this particular
experiment nearly 2000%.

The active ingredient in WD appears to be Mineral Spirits available
in 1 gallon jugs for less than 10 bucks from the big box stores.

So less than 8c/oz vs 30c/oz. for WD.

I would be very interested in your test results using Mineral
Spirits as a cutting fluid for aluminum.


Kerosene will work equally well.


Does that mean I could use diesel fuel at $3.40 a gallon
(or less than 3c per oz.)?


Yes, it does.
The smell is awful because of the volatile's however and there is "stuff" in
fuels that can be problematic in the long run.

What you can't do is use this stuff either pumped or misted.
Brushing it on or squirting it from a bottle is fine.
You will be making a bomb if you create a mist cloud in your garage.

Sinker EDM machines used to use Dielectric Kerosine.

--
John R. Carroll


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On 4/22/2010 7:59 AM, John R. Carroll wrote:
Winston wrote:


(Cheap substitutes for WD-40 as a cutting oil for aluminum)

Does that mean I could use diesel fuel at $3.40 a gallon
(or less than 3c per oz.)?


Yes, it does.
The smell is awful because of the volatile's however and there is "stuff" in
fuels that can be problematic in the long run.


I had no idea there were so many. Wow!
http://www.epa.gov/oms/regs/fuels/additive/web-gas.htm

What you can't do is use this stuff either pumped or misted.
Brushing it on or squirting it from a bottle is fine.
You will be making a bomb if you create a mist cloud in your garage.


I shall try deodorized kero in a squirt bottle next time I am sawing aluminum.

Thanks!

--Winston

--

Gary was a liar, a thief, a scoundrel and a psychologist.
He was the most redundant man I ever met.


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Winston wrote:
On 4/22/2010 7:59 AM, John R. Carroll wrote:
Winston wrote:


(Cheap substitutes for WD-40 as a cutting oil for aluminum)

Does that mean I could use diesel fuel at $3.40 a gallon
(or less than 3c per oz.)?


Yes, it does.
The smell is awful because of the volatile's however and there is
"stuff" in fuels that can be problematic in the long run.


I had no idea there were so many. Wow!
http://www.epa.gov/oms/regs/fuels/additive/web-gas.htm

What you can't do is use this stuff either pumped or misted.
Brushing it on or squirting it from a bottle is fine.
You will be making a bomb if you create a mist cloud in your garage.


I shall try deodorized kero in a squirt bottle next time I am sawing
aluminum.


Oil will work better with a saw because it stays with the blade better.
Sulferized cutting oil is the best, lard based is pretty good and even plain
motor oil works pretty well.

--
John R. Carroll


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On 4/22/2010 8:31 AM, John R. Carroll wrote:
Winston wrote:
On 4/22/2010 7:59 AM, John R. Carroll wrote:
Winston wrote:


(Cheap substitutes for WD-40 as a cutting oil for aluminum)

Does that mean I could use diesel fuel at $3.40 a gallon
(or less than 3c per oz.)?

Yes, it does.
The smell is awful because of the volatile's however and there is
"stuff" in fuels that can be problematic in the long run.


I had no idea there were so many. Wow!
http://www.epa.gov/oms/regs/fuels/additive/web-gas.htm

What you can't do is use this stuff either pumped or misted.
Brushing it on or squirting it from a bottle is fine.
You will be making a bomb if you create a mist cloud in your garage.


I shall try deodorized kero in a squirt bottle next time I am sawing
aluminum.


Oil will work better with a saw because it stays with the blade better.
Sulferized cutting oil is the best, lard based is pretty good and even plain
motor oil works pretty well.


Cool! Thanks!

--Winston


--

Gary was a liar, a thief, a scoundrel and a psychologist.
He was the most redundant man I ever met.
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Karl Townsend wrote:

John, I think I remember you're a pro machinist from AMC. I used to lurk
there till the OT made it useless. Anyway, I use toilet water (water and 6%
soluble oil) on AL - flood on the CHNC lathe and heavy zero fog mist on the
mill. I used to use oil in the CHNC but didn't like the mess in the shop.
Just curious, does anybody use kerosene in machines like this? It would
slowly evaporate and not leave an oil film on everything.


You mean like this...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NRg2f_gwkQE
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On Apr 22, 1:15*pm, Jim Stewart wrote:
Karl Townsend wrote:
John, I think I remember you're a pro machinist from AMC. I used to lurk
there till the OT made it useless. Anyway, I use toilet water (water and 6%
soluble oil) on AL - flood on the CHNC lathe and heavy zero fog mist on the
mill. *I used to use oil in the CHNC but didn't like the mess in the shop.
Just curious, does anybody use kerosene in machines like this? It would
slowly evaporate and not leave an oil film on everything.


You mean like this...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NRg2f_gwkQE


They're lucky the pretty white vaporized kero after the first flash
didn't ignite.


Dave
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"Dave__67" wrote in message
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On Apr 22, 1:15 pm, Jim Stewart wrote:
Karl Townsend wrote:
John, I think I remember you're a pro machinist from AMC. I used to lurk
there till the OT made it useless. Anyway, I use toilet water (water and
6%
soluble oil) on AL - flood on the CHNC lathe and heavy zero fog mist on
the
mill. I used to use oil in the CHNC but didn't like the mess in the
shop.
Just curious, does anybody use kerosene in machines like this? It would
slowly evaporate and not leave an oil film on everything.


You mean like this...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NRg2f_gwkQE


They're lucky the pretty white vaporized kero after the first flash
didn't ignite.


Dave


FWIW, and in general terms, lubricants for machining aluminum are used
mostly to improve surface finish. A rigid machine with any horsepower at all
doesn't need the lubrication for the purpose of reducing cutting forces --
although a small or light machine may.

And using a flood of miscible oil, while a common thing, is done more for
chip control than for cooling. It can improve finish, especially when you're
using low- or zero-rake carbides.

The really old, traditional cutting fluid for aluminum is kerosene, although
it was typically brushed on or dripped, not flooded. It does make a mess
but, again, it can improve surface finish.

I use lard oil when I need a good finish, on my 65-year-old South Bend 10L.
Like most old toolroom and small-shop operations used to do, I brush it on.
I also have a homemade drip can, but I seldom feel the need to use it. More
often, I machine it dry with HSS cutters.

--
Ed Huntress


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