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Building an axle puller- Source for hardened threaded rod/screws, andthrough-hole threaded material for same?
I could do a bit of searching and flailing about, but figured I'd get
the benefit of a similar effort by someone and improve the SNR at the same time. I'm looking for some hardened threaded rod or screws, about 12 inches long or a bit longer, maybe about 3/4 of an inch to an inch thick, along with steel sections threaded to take the screw. Idea being, weld the through threaded piece to a home-made tool that can be used to press axles out of hubs, etc etc. This would be similar to a 3-hole axle puller except it would fit onto all five lugs like the factory shop tool (subaru hubs are a bit prone to getting tweaked out of shape with a 3-hole puller, hence the dealers get a nice 5-hole puller). If the threads are formed with an eye towards high axial load (my ball- joint tool seems to have a pointed thread, maybe acme thread is good too?) that will be a big benefit, of course. I'm guessing Mcmaster may have the rod (maybe even hardened), but have not seen a through-threaded section there in my travels. A big threaded rod and coupler nut may do the trick, but hardened and with proper thread type is my preference. Thanks in advance- Dave |
Building an axle puller- Source for hardened threaded rod/screws, and through-hole threaded material for same?
"Dave__67" wrote in message ... I could do a bit of searching and flailing about, but figured I'd get the benefit of a similar effort by someone and improve the SNR at the same time. I'm looking for some hardened threaded rod or screws, about 12 inches long or a bit longer, maybe about 3/4 of an inch to an inch thick, along with steel sections threaded to take the screw. Idea being, weld the through threaded piece to a home-made tool that can be used to press axles out of hubs, etc etc. This would be similar to a 3-hole axle puller except it would fit onto all five lugs like the factory shop tool (subaru hubs are a bit prone to getting tweaked out of shape with a 3-hole puller, hence the dealers get a nice 5-hole puller). If the threads are formed with an eye towards high axial load (my ball- joint tool seems to have a pointed thread, maybe acme thread is good too?) that will be a big benefit, of course. I'm guessing Mcmaster may have the rod (maybe even hardened), but have not seen a through-threaded section there in my travels. A big threaded rod and coupler nut may do the trick, but hardened and with proper thread type is my preference. Thanks in advance- Dave Try any industrial fastener or engineering supply place. I've made/used many pullers using 3/4" & 1" threaded rod. No idea on the thread pitch other than its resonably fine..... Just grab a handful of nuts while you are there. Drill a thru hole and weld a nut on to the stud plate. To drive the threaded shaft, thread a second nut on the end and plug weld it in place. Grease or oil if heavily loaded. I've drilled cross holes in some, often a screw driver will provide enough drive to do the job or to allow rapid take up / positioning. Works for me on hubs / axles / brngs. |
Building an axle puller- Source for hardened threaded rod/screws, and through-hole threaded material for same?
Dave__67 fired this volley in news:2bc089e9-49cf-
: dea being, weld the through threaded piece to a home-made tool that can be used to press axles out of hubs, etc etc. This would be similar to a 3-hole axle puller except it would fit onto all five lugs like the factory shop tool (subaru hubs are a bit prone to getting tweaked out of shape with a 3-hole puller, hence the dealers get a nice 5-hole puller). So, why not weld an inexpensive 3-prong-er to a brake disk? LLoyd |
Building an axle puller- Source for hardened threadedrod/screws, and through-hole threaded material for same?
I do not think that you need hardened threaded rod for this
application. You will only use this puller a few dozen times, at most. i |
Building an axle puller- Source for hardened threaded rod/screws,and through-hole threaded material for same?
On Apr 21, 8:38*am, Dave__67 wrote:
... I'm looking for some hardened threaded rod or screws, about 12 inches long or a bit longer, maybe about 3/4 of an inch to an inch thick, along with steel sections threaded to take the screw.... Dave See if a forged eye bolt would do: http://www.jpbolts.co.uk/imgs/produc...f_e_m6_m12.jpg jsw |
Building an axle puller- Source for hardened threaded rod/screws, and through-hole threaded material for same?
Ignoramus9512 fired this volley in
: I do not think that you need hardened threaded rod for this application. You will only use this puller a few dozen times, at most. It has more to do with distortion under high loads than with wear, Iggy. I have a good puller I bought at retail for about $150. It has fully hardened (and tempered) parts, and I slather them up with lube on every use. Still, at about 150ft.lb. on the screw, I can see wear on the threads -- mostly in the form of the oxide coating rubbing off, but a little (tiny) amount of galling, too. I figure if that hardened screw wore like that over a dozen uses, the threads on an untreated screw would have just slid right off. LLoyd |
Building an axle puller- Source for hardened threaded rod/screws,and through-hole threaded material for same?
On Apr 21, 8:50*am, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote: Dave__67 fired this volley in news:2bc089e9-49cf- : dea being, weld the through threaded piece to a home-made tool that can be used to press axles out of hubs, etc etc. This would be similar to a 3-hole axle puller except it would fit onto all five lugs like the factory shop tool (subaru hubs are a bit prone to getting tweaked out of shape with a 3-hole puller, hence the dealers get a nice 5-hole puller). So, why not weld an inexpensive 3-prong-er to a brake disk? LLoyd I've thought of doing so, or of making a load-spreading adapter, but I've seen these be a real ******* to get loose, might be beyond the capabilities of a low-cost one, and would take almost as much work to ensure the load was really spread evenly. Dave |
Building an axle puller- Source for hardened threaded rod/screws,and through-hole threaded material for same?
On Apr 21, 8:49*am, "Royston Vasey" wrote:
"Dave__67" wrote in message ... I could do a bit of searching and flailing about, but figured I'd get the benefit of a similar effort by someone and improve the SNR at the same time. I'm looking for some hardened threaded rod or screws, about 12 inches long or a bit longer, maybe about 3/4 of an inch to an inch thick, along with steel sections threaded to take the screw. Idea being, weld the through threaded piece to a home-made tool that can be used to press axles out of hubs, etc etc. This would be similar to a 3-hole axle puller except it would fit onto all five lugs like the factory shop tool (subaru hubs are a bit prone to getting tweaked out of shape with a 3-hole puller, hence the dealers get a nice 5-hole puller). If the threads are formed with an eye towards high axial load (my ball- joint tool seems to have a pointed thread, maybe acme thread is good too?) that will be a big benefit, of course. I'm guessing Mcmaster may have the rod (maybe even hardened), but have not seen a through-threaded section there in my travels. A big threaded rod and coupler nut may do the trick, but hardened and with proper thread type is my preference. Thanks in advance- Dave Try any industrial fastener or engineering supply place. I've made/used many pullers using 3/4" & 1" threaded rod. No idea on the thread pitch other than its resonably fine..... Just grab a handful of nuts while you are there. Drill a thru hole and weld a nut on to the stud plate. To drive the threaded shaft, thread a second nut on the end and plug weld it in place. Grease or oil if heavily loaded. I've drilled cross holes in some, often a screw driver will provide enough drive to do the job or to allow rapid take up / positioning. Works for me on hubs / axles / brngs. This is my primary fallback, would prefer hardened. Dave |
Building an axle puller- Source for hardened threaded rod/screws,and through-hole threaded material for same?
On Apr 21, 9:27*am, Jim Wilkins wrote:
On Apr 21, 8:38*am, Dave__67 wrote: ... I'm looking for some hardened threaded rod or screws, about 12 inches long or a bit longer, maybe about 3/4 of an inch to an inch thick, along with steel sections threaded to take the screw.... Dave See if a forged eye bolt would do:http://www.jpbolts.co.uk/imgs/produc...f_e_m6_m12.jpg jsw That might be a good way to go, already has a big hole for my prybar to turn it. Dave |
Building an axle puller- Source for hardened threaded rod/screws,and through-hole threaded material for same?
On Apr 21, 10:09*am, Dave__67 wrote:
... See if a forged eye bolt would do: http://www.jpbolts.co.uk/imgs/produc...f_e_m6_m12.jpg jsw That might be a good way to go, already has a big hole for my prybar to turn it. Dave The problem with them is knowing which ones are higher strength steel, they aren't always marked like bolts. I got a few good used ones from a power company lineman. jsw |
Building an axle puller- Source for hardened threaded rod/screws, and through-hole threaded material for same?
On Wed, 21 Apr 2010 20:49:05 +0800, "Royston Vasey"
wrote: "Dave__67" wrote in message ... I could do a bit of searching and flailing about, but figured I'd get the benefit of a similar effort by someone and improve the SNR at the same time. I'm looking for some hardened threaded rod or screws, about 12 inches long or a bit longer, maybe about 3/4 of an inch to an inch thick, along with steel sections threaded to take the screw. Idea being, weld the through threaded piece to a home-made tool that can be used to press axles out of hubs, etc etc. This would be similar to a 3-hole axle puller except it would fit onto all five lugs like the factory shop tool (subaru hubs are a bit prone to getting tweaked out of shape with a 3-hole puller, hence the dealers get a nice 5-hole puller). If the threads are formed with an eye towards high axial load (my ball- joint tool seems to have a pointed thread, maybe acme thread is good too?) that will be a big benefit, of course. I'm guessing Mcmaster may have the rod (maybe even hardened), but have not seen a through-threaded section there in my travels. A big threaded rod and coupler nut may do the trick, but hardened and with proper thread type is my preference. Thanks in advance- Dave Try any industrial fastener or engineering supply place. I've made/used many pullers using 3/4" & 1" threaded rod. No idea on the thread pitch other than its resonably fine..... If he'll go to McMaster Carr then he can get grade b-7 threaded rod which is as good or better than a grade 8 bolt. |
Building an axle puller- Source for hardened threaded rod/screws,and through-hole threaded material for same?
On Apr 21, 12:58*pm, Wayne Cook wrote:
On Wed, 21 Apr 2010 20:49:05 +0800, "Royston Vasey" wrote: "Dave__67" wrote in message .... I could do a bit of searching and flailing about, but figured I'd get the benefit of a similar effort by someone and improve the SNR at the same time. I'm looking for some hardened threaded rod or screws, about 12 inches long or a bit longer, maybe about 3/4 of an inch to an inch thick, along with steel sections threaded to take the screw. Idea being, weld the through threaded piece to a home-made tool that can be used to press axles out of hubs, etc etc. This would be similar to a 3-hole axle puller except it would fit onto all five lugs like the factory shop tool (subaru hubs are a bit prone to getting tweaked out of shape with a 3-hole puller, hence the dealers get a nice 5-hole puller). If the threads are formed with an eye towards high axial load (my ball- joint tool seems to have a pointed thread, maybe acme thread is good too?) that will be a big benefit, of course. I'm guessing Mcmaster may have the rod (maybe even hardened), but have not seen a through-threaded section there in my travels. A big threaded rod and coupler nut may do the trick, but hardened and with proper thread type is my preference. Thanks in advance- Dave Try any industrial fastener or engineering supply place. I've made/used many pullers using 3/4" & 1" threaded rod. No idea on the thread pitch other than its resonably fine..... * If he'll go to McMaster Carr then he can get grade b-7 threaded rod which is as good or better than a grade 8 bolt. If he wanted to pay 30 bucks for it... Dave |
Building an axle puller- Source for hardened threaded rod/screws, and through-hole threaded material for same?
On Wed, 21 Apr 2010 18:43:00 -0700, the infamous JR North
scrawled the following: Oh, OK. Subaru used pressed-in hub/rotor assy only through '88 or so. The later ones, you just use an air hammer with a blunt nose driver. Take off the tie rod, separate the lower ball joint, Hold the rotor, and drive it out. If you're reusing the axle bearing, be gentle with the drive-out. If not, don't worry. Instead of a blunt nosed driver, since most of their axles had dimples in the end of the shaft, I used a pointed driver. The 20" punch worked well, allowing me to hold the hammer in my gut, for leverage, and the rotor with my free hand. I did mostly Hodnas, Toyonkas, and Dachsunds. -- "I think you very well may see a revolution in this country and it will not be a revolution to overthrow the government," he said. "It would be a revolution to restore government to its constitutional basis." --Rob Weaver on VoA, 4/19/10 |
Building an axle puller- Source for hardened threaded rod/screws,and through-hole threaded material for same?
spaco wrote:
Here's a company that specializes in such things: http://www.greenbaymfgco.com/catalog.php Went to "Threaded Rods": 1/4-20 is $1.90/ft, but 10-32 is _$16.90_ a foot!!??! WTF? 9 times as much? Bob |
Building an axle puller- Source for hardened threaded rod/screws,and through-hole threaded material for same?
On Apr 22, 5:26*pm, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
spaco wrote: Here's a company that specializes in such things: http://www.greenbaymfgco.com/catalog.php Went to "Threaded Rods": 1/4-20 is $1.90/ft, but 10-32 is _$16.90_ a foot!!??! *WTF? *9 times as much? Bob Exactly... Dave |
Building an axle puller- Source for hardened threaded rod/screws, and through-hole threaded material for same?
On 2010-04-22, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
spaco wrote: Here's a company that specializes in such things: http://www.greenbaymfgco.com/catalog.php Went to "Threaded Rods": 1/4-20 is $1.90/ft, but 10-32 is _$16.90_ a foot!!??! WTF? 9 times as much? Are you reading that right? What I see at $16.90 is labeled ".10-24" or 1/10"-24, based on the ".25-20" being 1/4"-20 And later on I see ".10-32" (1/10" 32) at $15.11 These are almost certainly rolled threads, and it may be more difficult to roll clean threads at that small a diameter. I do see one about 3/4 of the way down the page which is clearly labeled "10-32" and is 304 SS, not the chrome molly steel of the earlier ones. If it were not for seeing this, I would think that the ".10-24" and ".10-32" were entered by someone who does not understand screw sizing. But ".25-28" is clearly 1/4-28. I think that if you are that interested, you should call them and talk to someone who can be clear about the sizes. :-) Enjoy, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
Building an axle puller- Source for hardened threaded rod/screws, and through-hole threaded material for same?
On Thu, 22 Apr 2010 11:45:08 -0700, the infamous JR North
scrawled the following: You did a Dachsund? Compliant, but a little small for you, eh? JR (topposting corrected by snipping text underneath) My motto: Tight is Right. wink -- ....in order that a man may be happy, it is necessary that he should not only be capable of his work, but a good judge of his work. -- John Ruskin |
Building an axle puller- Source for hardened threaded rod/screws,and through-hole threaded material for same?
DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2010-04-22, Bob Engelhardt wrote: spaco wrote: Here's a company that specializes in such things: http://www.greenbaymfgco.com/catalog.php Went to "Threaded Rods": 1/4-20 is $1.90/ft, but 10-32 is _$16.90_ a foot!!??! WTF? 9 times as much? Are you reading that right? What I see at $16.90 is labeled ".10-24" or 1/10"-24, based on the ".25-20" being 1/4"-20 Oops - you're right. It is quite clearly .10 - they are all decimal'ly sized. Having never seen a .10-32 size, my subconscious was sure that it was 10-32 and my conscious went along G. Being such a unusual size does explain some of the cost difference, but still ... ... I think that if you are that interested, you should call them and talk to someone who can be clear about the sizes. :-) Well, I have to admit that the web page is pretty clear, if you're willing to read what's actually there G. Thanks, Bob BTW - your reply is a good example of what sets RCM apart from the riffraff of Usenet. You replied "Are you reading that right?", when I clearly was NOT reading it right. On so many NG's it would have been "You dumb ****, READ the ****ing listing, it says _.10_. Get it? POINT 10." |
Building an axle puller- Source for hardened threaded rod/screws, and through-hole threaded material for same?
On 2010-04-23, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
DoN. Nichols wrote: [ ... ] Are you reading that right? What I see at $16.90 is labeled ".10-24" or 1/10"-24, based on the ".25-20" being 1/4"-20 Oops - you're right. It is quite clearly .10 - they are all decimal'ly sized. Having never seen a .10-32 size, my subconscious was sure that it was 10-32 and my conscious went along G. Being such a unusual size does explain some of the cost difference, but still ... But it is such an *uncommon* size -- especially with 24 or 32 TPI that I tend to not believe it. I am more likely to believe that whoever wrote the web page did not really understand thread sizes, and especially the difference between number sizes and fractional inch sizes. ... I think that if you are that interested, you should call them and talk to someone who can be clear about the sizes. :-) Well, I have to admit that the web page is pretty clear, if you're willing to read what's actually there G. It is clear -- but hard to believe. That is why I suggest that you talk to someone there who can explain what is *really* meant. (Maybe it will prompt them to fix the web page. How many people do a search for a 1.250x8 thread instead of a 1-1/4x8? It probably loses them a lot of potential customers. Thanks, Bob BTW - your reply is a good example of what sets RCM apart from the riffraff of Usenet. You replied "Are you reading that right?", when I clearly was NOT reading it right. On so many NG's it would have been "You dumb ****, READ the ****ing listing, it says _.10_. Get it? POINT 10." I see no point in insulting anyone. Errors like that are easy enough to make -- and if the font size on the browser is small enough, you might not even *see* the '.' before the number. (I tend to run my browser at 150% magnification most of the time, and use a fairly large monitor as well. I'm sure that I've made enough similar mistakes in my life -- and it is not yet over, even. (I hope :-) Enjoy, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
Building an axle puller- Source for hardened threaded rod/screws,and through-hole threaded material for same?
On Apr 23, 7:49*am, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
... Oops - you're right. *It is quite clearly .10 - they are all decimal'ly sized. *Having never seen a .10-32 size, my subconscious was sure that it was 10-32 and my conscious went along G. *Being such a unusual size does explain some of the cost difference, but still ... Bob A .10 - 24 thread fails the sanity check that long experience has taught me to apply. Numbered screw threads are given as decimal sizes on mil-spec drawings, 0.190-32 for #10-32 for example. But 0.10" is #3, the standard threads are 48 and 56 tpi. A standard 24 tpi thread form would cut away over half the diameter. You think #6-32 is weak? jsw |
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