Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default How big should a lathe chuck guard be?

I am going to make or buy a guard for the chuck on my Clausing 5914
lathe. The question is how large the guard should be.

The advertised swing is 12", although the absolute max is about 13" over
the bed.

There are two chucks and one faceplate. The chucks are 8" (3-jaw) and
10" (4-jaw), and the faceplate is 10". The 3-jaw also has big clunky
soft jaws.

The commercial units made by Flexbar are what one mostly sees. There
are two units that are plausible for this lathe. Data from Enco:

FK505-4016 is a half-circle of radius 6", is 6" wide along the bedway,
and is offered for chucks up to 8". This seems a bit too tight, even
though the guard is suggested for lathes up to 12" swing.

FK505-4017 is a half-circle of radius 8", 8" along the bedway, and is
offered for chucks up to 10". This obviously works, but the guard seems
a bit too big for the lathe, even though the guard is suggested for
lathes from 12" to 16" swing.

What experience do people have here?

Joe Gwinn
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Default How big should a lathe chuck guard be?


"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
I am going to make or buy a guard for the chuck on my Clausing 5914
lathe. The question is how large the guard should be.

The advertised swing is 12", although the absolute max is about 13" over
the bed.

There are two chucks and one faceplate. The chucks are 8" (3-jaw) and
10" (4-jaw), and the faceplate is 10". The 3-jaw also has big clunky
soft jaws.

The commercial units made by Flexbar are what one mostly sees. There
are two units that are plausible for this lathe. Data from Enco:

FK505-4016 is a half-circle of radius 6", is 6" wide along the bedway,
and is offered for chucks up to 8". This seems a bit too tight, even
though the guard is suggested for lathes up to 12" swing.

FK505-4017 is a half-circle of radius 8", 8" along the bedway, and is
offered for chucks up to 10". This obviously works, but the guard seems
a bit too big for the lathe, even though the guard is suggested for
lathes from 12" to 16" swing.

What experience do people have here?

Joe Gwinn


Better measure your swing again. My 5914 will only swing about 12 1/4" over
the ways. It's the back V way that hits first. Make the guard as tight as
you can to accept the max workpeice. 12 1/2" dia. If you buy one, the 4016
model makes sense. How often will you turn something between 12 and 12 1/4"?
You could probably tweak it to clear the extra 1/4" if you had to have it.
Tom


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Default How big should a lathe chuck guard be?

I would say that width may be more important than radius, to some
extent. You need the guard wide enough to extend at least a bit beyond
the chuck jaws. Secondly, the guard should prevent coolant from being
thrown at you, so it needs to either go lower than the chuck's
middle, or else you ned to add a rubber splash guard to it. My guard
is for lathes with 15" swing, and my lathe is 13". It seems to fit
reasonably well.

i
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Default How big should a lathe chuck guard be?

Swing does not really have much to do with the issue.

Using the largest chuck, back out the jaws until they have about half
engagement in the scroll or worm and measure that. I would go about 2"
bigger diameter than that for a 1" clearance in the worst case when
holding a large diameter. That measurement may be pretty close to the
face plate diameter.

Personally those splash guards are more trouble then they are worth
unless you are doing a lot of production turning with flood coolant.
But each to his own.

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Default How big should a lathe chuck guard be?

p.s.

The guard only helps with coolant thrown off by the chuck, until the
tool gets to the guard stuff is still being thrown around.


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Default How big should a lathe chuck guard be?

On Tue, 14 Jul 2009 10:04:47 -0700 (PDT), David41616
wrote:


Personally those splash guards are more trouble then they are worth
unless you are doing a lot of production turning with flood coolant.
But each to his own.


Agreed. My lathe came with a Flexbar shield and I never use it.

--
Ned Simmons
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Default How big should a lathe chuck guard be?

I think they are are unsafe and never use one. I do use a plexiglass shield
on a magnetic holder to prevent splash when required.
Steve

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
I am going to make or buy a guard for the chuck on my Clausing 5914
lathe. The question is how large the guard should be.

The advertised swing is 12", although the absolute max is about 13" over
the bed.

There are two chucks and one faceplate. The chucks are 8" (3-jaw) and
10" (4-jaw), and the faceplate is 10". The 3-jaw also has big clunky
soft jaws.

The commercial units made by Flexbar are what one mostly sees. There
are two units that are plausible for this lathe. Data from Enco:

FK505-4016 is a half-circle of radius 6", is 6" wide along the bedway,
and is offered for chucks up to 8". This seems a bit too tight, even
though the guard is suggested for lathes up to 12" swing.

FK505-4017 is a half-circle of radius 8", 8" along the bedway, and is
offered for chucks up to 10". This obviously works, but the guard seems
a bit too big for the lathe, even though the guard is suggested for
lathes from 12" to 16" swing.

What experience do people have here?

Joe Gwinn



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Default How big should a lathe chuck guard be?

In article ,
"Steve Lusardi" wrote:

I think they are are unsafe and never use one. I do use a plexiglass shield
on a magnetic holder to prevent splash when required.


Why are they unsafe?

The little plexiglass shield wouldn't work for me because the coolant
goes in all directions.

Joe Gwinn


"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
I am going to make or buy a guard for the chuck on my Clausing 5914
lathe. The question is how large the guard should be.

The advertised swing is 12", although the absolute max is about 13" over
the bed.

There are two chucks and one faceplate. The chucks are 8" (3-jaw) and
10" (4-jaw), and the faceplate is 10". The 3-jaw also has big clunky
soft jaws.

The commercial units made by Flexbar are what one mostly sees. There
are two units that are plausible for this lathe. Data from Enco:

FK505-4016 is a half-circle of radius 6", is 6" wide along the bedway,
and is offered for chucks up to 8". This seems a bit too tight, even
though the guard is suggested for lathes up to 12" swing.

FK505-4017 is a half-circle of radius 8", 8" along the bedway, and is
offered for chucks up to 10". This obviously works, but the guard seems
a bit too big for the lathe, even though the guard is suggested for
lathes from 12" to 16" swing.

What experience do people have here?

Joe Gwinn

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Default How big should a lathe chuck guard be?

In article
,
David41616 wrote:

Swing does not really have much to do with the issue.

Using the largest chuck, back out the jaws until they have about half
engagement in the scroll or worm and measure that. I would go about 2"
bigger diameter than that for a 1" clearance in the worst case when
holding a large diameter. That measurement may be pretty close to the
face plate diameter.


This implies that the 6" radius guard is correct. OK.


Personally those splash guards are more trouble then they are worth
unless you are doing a lot of production turning with flood coolant.
But each to his own.


I am not doing production, but I am gearing up for flood cooling, as it
seems to work far better than anything else.

Joe Gwinn
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Default How big should a lathe chuck guard be?

In article
,
David41616 wrote:

p.s.

The guard only helps with coolant thrown off by the chuck, until the
tool gets to the guard stuff is still being thrown around.


True, but most of the long-distance coolant flinging is done by the
chuck. I plan to put a little shield on the carriage if needed.

Joe Gwinn


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Default How big should a lathe chuck guard be?

In article ,
Ignoramus13927 wrote:

I would say that width may be more important than radius, to some
extent. You need the guard wide enough to extend at least a bit beyond
the chuck jaws.


Yes. I plan to mount the guard to ensure this, even if the back of the
chuck isn't fully covered. Only 1" gap between headstock and cover is
required to achieve this.


Secondly, the guard should prevent coolant from being
thrown at you, so it needs to either go lower than the chuck's
middle, or else you ned to add a rubber splash guard to it.


I do plan to add rubber skirts front and back. The 5914 has a deep chip
pan, but no backsplash shield, so the back skirt is needed.

And a rubber apron on the toolpost, covering the carriage and compound.


My guard
is for lathes with 15" swing, and my lathe is 13". It seems to fit
reasonably well.


This sounds like the FK505-4019 Flexbar guard, which is for lathes with
16-20" swing. What is the length? (This is the largest dimension,
being the diameter of the circle.)

Anyway, for the 5914, this suggests use of the larger of the two
plausible guards.

Joe Gwinn
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Default How big should a lathe chuck guard be?

In article ,
"Tom Wait" wrote:

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
I am going to make or buy a guard for the chuck on my Clausing 5914
lathe. The question is how large the guard should be.

The advertised swing is 12", although the absolute max is about 13" over
the bed.

There are two chucks and one faceplate. The chucks are 8" (3-jaw) and
10" (4-jaw), and the faceplate is 10". The 3-jaw also has big clunky
soft jaws.

The commercial units made by Flexbar are what one mostly sees. There
are two units that are plausible for this lathe. Data from Enco:

FK505-4016 is a half-circle of radius 6", is 6" wide along the bedway,
and is offered for chucks up to 8". This seems a bit too tight, even
though the guard is suggested for lathes up to 12" swing.

FK505-4017 is a half-circle of radius 8", 8" along the bedway, and is
offered for chucks up to 10". This obviously works, but the guard seems
a bit too big for the lathe, even though the guard is suggested for
lathes from 12" to 16" swing.

What experience do people have here?

Joe Gwinn


Better measure your swing again. My 5914 will only swing about 12 1/4" over
the ways. It's the back V way that hits first. Make the guard as tight as
you can to accept the max workpeice. 12 1/2" dia. If you buy one, the 4016
model makes sense. How often will you turn something between 12 and 12 1/4"?
You could probably tweak it to clear the extra 1/4" if you had to have it.


Right you are. It's 6-3/32 inches from center (the center pip on a
piece of steel in a 5C collet) to the near edge of the rear V rail.

Why is it necessary to make the guard as tight as possible?

Joe Gwinn
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Default How big should a lathe chuck guard be?

On Jul 15, 5:14*am, Joseph Gwinn wrote:

Why are they unsafe?


Wait until the first time a bunch of swarf suddenly wraps around the
tool, work and chuck and start whipping snot out of the guard. If you
insist on using one make sure it is solidly mounted and you are always
using chip breaker tooling.

Would love to hear your report in about 6 months time.

Dave

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Default How big should a lathe chuck guard be?


"Joseph Gwinn" wrote

Why is it necessary to make the guard as tight as possible?


I don't think it's necessary, just desirable to keep the stray coolant from
spraying out from under the cover. I haven't used a guard on a lathe in
decades but think about one when I ponder flood coolant. I'll be adding a
chip/splash shield on the rear of the pan soon. The flood coolant follows
and then I presume the chuck guard. Let us know how it all works out. Post
pics if possible somewhere.
Tom


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Default How big should a lathe chuck guard be?

In article
,
David41616 wrote:

On Jul 15, 5:14*am, Joseph Gwinn wrote:

Why are they unsafe?


Wait until the first time a bunch of swarf suddenly wraps around the
tool, work and chuck and start whipping snot out of the guard. If you
insist on using one make sure it is solidly mounted and you are always
using chip breaker tooling.


Aside from some damage to the guard, this actually sounds like an
advantage to me. If that long chip didn't hit the guard, it would hit
something else, like me.


Would love to hear your report in about 6 months time.


Sure.

Actually, with the coolant I've been getting very long chips when
parting 1018 off. If under power feed, often it's one big chip, if I
don't interfere. These chips are not that heavy, but can be quite
sharp-edged. And I have already had cases of flailing-nest syndrome.



Joe Gwinn


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Default How big should a lathe chuck guard be?

In article ,
"Tom Wait" wrote:

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote

Why is it necessary to make the guard as tight as possible?


I don't think it's necessary, just desirable to keep the stray coolant from
spraying out from under the cover. I haven't used a guard on a lathe in
decades but think about one when I ponder flood coolant. I'll be adding a
chip/splash shield on the rear of the pan soon. The flood coolant follows
and then I presume the chuck guard.


Escaping coolant is why Iggy put a rubber skirt on the front of his
guard, and why one installs the guard such that the guard reaches past
the tips of the chuck jaws. I plan to do both.

And, "chuck jaws" has to include those big clunky soft jaws, which also
are a danger because of their propensity to clip the lathe operator.
Man would that hurt.


Let us know how it all works out. Post pics if possible somewhere.


Sure.

Joe Gwinn
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Default How big should a lathe chuck guard be?

On Wed, 15 Jul 2009 10:23:41 -0700 (PDT), David41616
wrote:

On Jul 15, 5:14*am, Joseph Gwinn wrote:

Why are they unsafe?


Wait until the first time a bunch of swarf suddenly wraps around the
tool, work and chuck and start whipping snot out of the guard. If you
insist on using one make sure it is solidly mounted and you are always
using chip breaker tooling.

Would love to hear your report in about 6 months time.

Dave


I use the factory Hardinge splash guard on both the HLV-H and the
TFB...flood cooling and use them both all the time. I use high sulpher
oil in both lathes at 1800-3000 rmp..and it sure saves cleaning up a
hell of a mess.

Gunner

"Lenin called them "useful idiots," those people living in
liberal democracies who by giving moral and material support
to a totalitarian ideology in effect were braiding the rope that
would hang them. Why people who enjoyed freedom and prosperity worked
passionately to destroy both is a fascinating question, one still with us
today. Now the useful idiots can be found in the chorus of appeasement,
reflexive anti-Americanism, and sentimental idealism trying to inhibit
the necessary responses to another freedom-hating ideology, radical Islam"

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