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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Sub panel to a sub panel
I am building a detatched garage about 75 feet from my attached
garage. I have my main panel and a sub panel beside each other in my attached garage. The sub panel only has my small upstairs heat pump/ air conditioner for a bonus room hooked to it as well as a 50 amp plug for a small welder I almost never use. Can I run a sub panel in my new detached garage/workshop from the sub panel in my current attached garage? If so, do I need another ground rod at the detached garage? If it helps, I can remove the 50 amp welding plug because I only plan to wel in the detached garage anyway. I have 200 amp service in my main panel. I think the sub panel next to it I bought was either a 50 or 100 amp panel but like I sais, the only thing on it is the 1.5 ton heat pump. It is usually turned off as the upstairs is a play room for the kids. I added the sub panel because all of the breakers in my main pannel were almost full. |
#2
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Sub panel to a sub panel
In article , stryped wrote:
I am building a detatched garage about 75 feet from my attached garage. I have my main panel and a sub panel beside each other in my attached garage. The sub panel only has my small upstairs heat pump/ air conditioner for a bonus room hooked to it as well as a 50 amp plug for a small welder I almost never use. Can I run a sub panel in my new detached garage/workshop from the sub panel in my current attached garage? Maybe. What type of cable (size, material, and number of conductors) runs from the main panel to the existing subpanel? What is the rating of the existing subpanel? Is the subpanel connected to a breaker in the main panel, and if so, what is the rating of that breaker? If so, do I need another ground rod at the detached garage? Yes. If it helps, I can remove the 50 amp welding plug because I only plan to wel in the detached garage anyway. Do so. I have 200 amp service in my main panel. I think the sub panel next to it I bought was either a 50 or 100 amp panel That makes a BIG difference. but like I sais, the only thing on it is the 1.5 ton heat pump. It is usually turned off as the upstairs is a play room for the kids. I added the sub panel because all of the breakers in my main pannel were almost full. IMO you're much better off hiring a licensed electrician. The questions you're asking -- and the fact that you failed to gather such elementary but crucial information such as the rating of the existing subpanel -- strongly suggest that you do not possess the knowledge or the skills to do this safely on your own. |
#3
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Sub panel to a sub panel
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#4
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Sub panel to a sub panel
On Jul 13, 8:30*am, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote: stryped fired this volley in news:2a8c8464-ab25- : Can I run a sub panel in my new detached garage/workshop from the sub panel in my current attached garage? Someone could. *We've watched your progress long enough to think that's not safe (for your family -- think "kids playing upstairs") for you to do. If so, do I need another ground rod at the detached garage? Two, eight feet apart in many jurisdictions. I added the sub panel because all of the breakers in my main pannel were almost full. That scares me. *It sound like you have multiple circuits stuffed into all the available connector space on every breaker. An electrician might be your best friend, here. I'm not banging on you, Stryped. *This just doesn't sound like the right project for you to undertake. LLoyd The main pannel had two spots left. I added a 100 amp breaker in the main panel to the 100 amp sub panel. the wiring between the two was the correct size for 100 amps. (I checked when I did this several years ago.) |
#5
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Sub panel to a sub panel
In article , stryped wrote:
The main pannel had two spots left. I added a 100 amp breaker in the main panel to the 100 amp sub panel. the wiring between the two was the correct size for 100 amps. (I checked when I did this several years ago.) Let's double-check, OK? Please answer all of these questions: What type of wire? What gauge? How many conductors did you run to the subpanel? What are they connected to? Does the subpanel have separate busses for neutral and ground? Are they connected to each other, or electrically separate? How are the neutral and ground busses in the subpanel connected to the main panel? |
#6
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Sub panel to a sub panel
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#7
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Sub panel to a sub panel
On Jul 13, 9:29*am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , stryped wrote: The main pannel had two spots left. I added a 100 amp breaker in the main panel to the 100 amp sub panel. the wiring between the two was the correct size for 100 amps. (I checked when I did this several years ago.) Let's double-check, OK? Please answer all of these questions: What type of wire? What gauge? How many conductors did you run to the subpanel? What are they connected to? Does the subpanel have separate busses for neutral and ground? Are they connected to each other, or electrically separate? How are the neutral and ground busses in the subpanel connected to the main panel? The sub panel is essentially a main type panel. I will have to look again at the wire, but there is a 100 amp breaker form the main panel feeding the sub pannel. The sub panel has a 100 amp main breaker also. Everythign feeds to the main panel. (ground and everything.) I will take some pictures tonight. |
#8
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Sub panel to a sub panel
"stryped" wrote in message ... I am building a detatched garage about 75 feet from my attached garage. I have my main panel and a sub panel beside each other in my attached garage. The sub panel only has my small upstairs heat pump/ air conditioner for a bonus room hooked to it as well as a 50 amp plug for a small welder I almost never use. Can I run a sub panel in my new detached garage/workshop from the sub panel in my current attached garage? If so, do I need another ground rod at the detached garage? If it helps, I can remove the 50 amp welding plug because I only plan to wel in the detached garage anyway. I have 200 amp service in my main panel. I think the sub panel next to it I bought was either a 50 or 100 amp panel but like I sais, the only thing on it is the 1.5 ton heat pump. It is usually turned off as the upstairs is a play room for the kids. I added the sub panel because all of the breakers in my main pannel were almost full. Make a hole in the main panel for another sub panel, just like you did before. Move a couple of circuits to the other sub if necessary. Yes you will need a main panel, ground rods and fused disconnect at the new shop. I'd leave the welding plug for possible future use. It only matters if you try to use it while heavily loaded on other circuits, but if everything is fused/breakered correctly you should still be safe. |
#9
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Sub panel to a sub panel
stryped wrote:
I am building a detatched garage about 75 feet from my attached garage. I have my main panel and a sub panel beside each other in my attached garage. The sub panel only has my small upstairs heat pump/ air conditioner for a bonus room hooked to it as well as a 50 amp plug for a small welder I almost never use. Can I run a sub panel in my new detached garage/workshop from the sub panel in my current attached garage? How did that truck engine overhaul work out? |
#10
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Sub panel to a sub panel
On Jul 13, 10:08*am, Jim Stewart wrote:
stryped wrote: I am building a detatched garage about 75 feet from my attached garage. I have my main panel and a sub panel beside each other in my attached garage. The sub panel only has my small upstairs heat pump/ air conditioner for a bonus room hooked to it as well as a 50 amp plug for a small welder I almost never use. Can I run a sub panel in my new detached garage/workshop from the sub panel in my current attached garage? How did that truck engine overhaul work out? Great. I am sellign it as we speak. It runs like a scalded dog. (it is fairly fast). the only thing I have noticed is after sittign overnight when starting it there is some lifter ticking that goes away after about 5 seconds. For what it is worth. I ask alot of questions here but all of my projects (knock on wood) have turned out ok, (That is why I ask alot of questions, to make sure everythign is right.). The tiller is still runnign too by the way |
#11
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Sub panel to a sub panel
On Jul 13, 10:01*am, "Tim" wrote:
"stryped" wrote in message ... I am building a detatched garage about 75 feet from my attached garage. I have my main panel and a sub panel beside each other in my attached garage. The sub panel only has my small upstairs heat pump/ air conditioner for a bonus room hooked to it as well as a 50 amp plug for a small welder I almost never use. Can I run a sub panel in my new detached garage/workshop from the sub panel in my current attached garage? If so, do I need another ground rod at the detached garage? If it helps, I can remove the 50 amp welding plug because I only plan to wel in the detached garage anyway. I have 200 amp service in my main panel. I think the sub panel next to it I bought was either a 50 or 100 amp panel but like I sais, the only thing on it is the 1.5 ton heat pump. It is usually turned off as the upstairs is a play room for the kids. I added the sub panel because all of the breakers in my main pannel were almost full. Make a hole in the main panel for another sub panel, just like you did before. Move a couple of circuits to the other sub if necessary. *Yes you will need a main panel, ground rods and fused disconnect at the new shop. I'd leave the welding plug for possible future use. It only matters if you try to use it while heavily loaded on other circuits, but if everything is fused/breakered correctly you should still be safe.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - is there a reason to run the second sub from the main panel rather than the 1st sub panel? Do I need a disconnect on top of having a panel in the attached garage with a main breaker? Where would I put it, on the outside of the building? |
#12
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Sub panel to a sub panel
"stryped" wrote in message ... -is there a reason to run the second sub from the main panel rather -than the 1st sub panel? Yes, you want your load to come through the 200 amp main breaker if you have a 200 amp meter can and service. Connecting up stream or bypassing the 200 amp main could allow you to overload the service. -Do I need a disconnect on top of having a panel in the attached garage -with a main breaker? Where would I put it, on the outside of the -building? I'm not certain what the codes say, but a disconnect on the outside of your main service panel could be a good idea just before you go underground. When you come up to the new service, a fused disconnect shouldn't be necessary if you come through the wall, and immediately in to your new panel. If you cannot locate your new main panel, just inside the wall from your service entrance, then yes, a fused disconnect would be a must. |
#13
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Sub panel to a sub panel
What Lloyd said.
What Doug said. FWIW: My shop uses the cheapest available (usu. on sale) 4 ft. fluorescent fixtures, mounted 2 each over major machine tools. Additional spot lighting on each machine tool is turned on as needed. Recommend you get the services of a licensed electrician for bulk of electrical specks and design, even if you do the work yourself. This may prevent grief from the electrical inspector. In the same regard, be sure to obtain a building permit as required in your area. Bob Swinney |
#14
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Sub panel to a sub panel
On Jul 13, 10:42*am, "Tim" wrote:
"stryped" wrote in message ... -is there a reason to run the second sub from the main panel rather -than the 1st sub panel? Yes, you want your load to come through the 200 amp main breaker if you have a 200 amp meter can and service. Connecting up stream or bypassing the 200 amp main could allow you to overload the service. -Do I need a disconnect on top of having a panel in the attached garage -with a main breaker? Where would I put it, on the outside of the -building? I'm not certain what the codes say, but a disconnect on the outside of your main service panel could be a good idea just before you go underground. When you come up to the new service, a fused disconnect shouldn't be necessary if you come through the wall, and immediately in to your new panel. If you cannot locate your new main panel, just inside the wall from your service entrance, then yes, a fused disconnect would be a must. What size panel for the new garage would I need? (If my home service is 200 amps, and my current sub panel is 100 amps?) Can I put another 100 amp panel in my new garage/shop? I will have to route the cable under the house (crawl space) and outside under a deck to a ditch to the new shop. So you are sayign a disconnect where the wite comes out of the house? (Which would be under the deck). B the way, I will have to disconnect somethignin the main panel to give me space for the extra sub panel. If there is not enough slack to move it over. (wire wise). What can I do? |
#15
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Sub panel to a sub panel
In article , stryped wrote:
On Jul 13, 9:29=A0am, (Doug Miller) wrote: In article = ..com, stryped wrote: The main pannel had two spots left. I added a 100 amp breaker in the main panel to the 100 amp sub panel. the wiring between the two was the correct size for 100 amps. (I checked when I did this several years ago.) Let's double-check, OK? Please answer all of these questions: What type of wire? What gauge? How many conductors did you run to the subpanel? What are they connected to? Does the subpanel have separate busses for neutral and ground? Are they connected to each other, or electrically separate? How are the neutral and ground busses in the subpanel connected to the ma= in panel? The sub panel is essentially a main type panel. If you installed it the same way as a main panel is installed, then you installed it wrong. I will have to look again at the wire, but there is a 100 amp breaker form the main panel feeding the sub pannel. The sub panel has a 100 amp main breaker also. And is the subpanel rated for 100A? Everythign feeds to the main panel. (ground and everything.) I will take some pictures tonight. That's fine, but make sure to answer the questions too -- we won't be able to tell wire type or gauge from photographs. |
#16
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Sub panel to a sub panel
In article , "Tim" wrote:
"stryped" wrote in message ... -is there a reason to run the second sub from the main panel rather -than the 1st sub panel? Yes, you want your load to come through the 200 amp main breaker if you have a 200 amp meter can and service. Connecting up stream or bypassing the 200 amp main could allow you to overload the service. ??? The 1st subpanel is fed from the main; if he feeds the second subpanel from the first, he's still feeding from the main anyway. There's no danger of overloading the service. And *assuming* that the breaker protecting the feed from the main to the first subpanel is properly sized for the conductors, there's no danger of overloading that feed either. |
#17
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Sub panel to a sub panel
In article , stryped wrote:
B the way, I will have to disconnect somethignin the main panel to give me space for the extra sub panel. If there is not enough slack to move it over. (wire wise). What can I do? What can you do? Hire an electrician. Please. You're in over your head. The safety of your family is at stake. |
#18
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Sub panel to a sub panel
On Jul 13, 12:37*pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , stryped wrote: On Jul 13, 9:29=A0am, (Doug Miller) wrote: In article = ..com, stryped wrote: The main pannel had two spots left. I added a 100 amp breaker in the main panel to the 100 amp sub panel. the wiring between the two was the correct size for 100 amps. (I checked when I did this several years ago.) Let's double-check, OK? Please answer all of these questions: What type of wire? What gauge? How many conductors did you run to the subpanel? What are they connected to? Does the subpanel have separate busses for neutral and ground? Are they connected to each other, or electrically separate? How are the neutral and ground busses in the subpanel connected to the ma= in panel? The sub panel is essentially a main type panel. If you installed it the same way as a main panel is installed, then you installed it wrong. I will have to look again at the wire, but there is a 100 amp breaker form the main panel feeding the sub pannel. The sub panel has a 100 amp main breaker also. And is the subpanel rated for 100A? Everythign feeds to the main panel. (ground and everything.) I will take some pictures tonight. That's fine, but make sure to answer the questions too -- we won't be able to tell wire type or gauge from photographs.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - What do you mean if I installed it the same as the main panel it is wrong? I put a (rated) 100 am sub panel right next to the main panel. There is a 100 amp breaker in the main panel feeding the sub panel and also a 100 amp main breaker in the sub panel. the ground in the sub runs to the grounding bus in the main panel. |
#19
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Sub panel to a sub panel
In article , stryped wrote:
What do you mean if I installed it the same as the main panel it is wrong? Code requires the main and neutral bus bars to be bonded together in the main panel, and requires them to be electrically *isolated* in subpanels. |
#20
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Sub panel to a sub panel
On 2009-07-13, Doug Miller wrote:
In article , stryped wrote: What do you mean if I installed it the same as the main panel it is wrong? Code requires the main and neutral bus bars to be bonded together in the main panel, and requires them to be electrically *isolated* in subpanels. Do you mean ground and neutral? i |
#21
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Sub panel to a sub panel
In article , Ignoramus20849 wrote:
On 2009-07-13, Doug Miller wrote: In article , stryped wrote: What do you mean if I installed it the same as the main panel it is wrong? Code requires the main and neutral bus bars to be bonded together in the main panel, and requires them to be electrically *isolated* in subpanels. Do you mean ground and neutral? OOPS!! Yes, I do. Thanks for catching that. |
#22
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Sub panel to a sub panel
In article , stryped wrote:
What do you mean if I installed it the same as the main panel it is wrong? Code requires the ground and neutral bus bars to be bonded together in the main panel, and requires them to be electrically *isolated* in subpanels. |
#23
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Sub panel to a sub panel
On Jul 13, 2:22*pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , stryped wrote: What do you mean if I installed it the same as the main panel it is wrong? Code requires the ground and neutral bus bars to be bonded together in the main panel, and requires them to be electrically *isolated* in subpanels. To be honest I cant rememebr I will have to look if they are isolated in the sub panel. How is the connection between the two "isolated"? |
#24
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Sub panel to a sub panel
On Mon, 13 Jul 2009 12:37:15 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote: On Jul 13, 2:22*pm, (Doug Miller) wrote: In article , stryped wrote: What do you mean if I installed it the same as the main panel it is wrong? Code requires the ground and neutral bus bars to be bonded together in the main panel, and requires them to be electrically *isolated* in subpanels. To be honest I cant rememebr I will have to look if they are isolated in the sub panel. How is the connection between the two "isolated"? It has been a long time... Used to be a screw with a paper tag attached to it by the ground and neutral connections. Tag said to install screw to bond ground to neutral or similar words. Leave said screw out if you don't want the two bonded (shrug). -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b Remove no.spam for email |
#25
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Sub panel to a sub panel
In article , stryped wrote:
On Jul 13, 2:22=A0pm, (Doug Miller) wrote: In article .= com, stryped wrote: What do you mean if I installed it the same as the main panel it is wrong? Code requires the ground and neutral bus bars to be bonded together in the main panel, and requires them to be electrically *isolated* in subpanels. To be honest I cant rememebr I will have to look if they are isolated in the sub panel. How is the connection between the two "isolated"? "Isolated" means not connected electrically. One of the busses will be bolted or screwed directly to the box -- that's the ground bar. The other one will be mounted to the box with plastic insulators -- that's the neutral bar. In a main panel, the two bars MUST be electrically connected to each other, either by means of a jumper wire or bar connecting them, or by means of a screw driven through the neutral bar and into the box, to provide metal-to-metal contact. In a subpanel, the two bars MUST NOT be electrically connected. Thus, if you installed the subpanel "the same as the main panel" then you installed it incorrectly -- and dangerously. |
#26
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Sub panel to a sub panel
In article , Leon Fisk wrote:
On Mon, 13 Jul 2009 12:37:15 -0700 (PDT), stryped wrote: On Jul 13, 2:22*pm, (Doug Miller) wrote: In article , stryped wrote: What do you mean if I installed it the same as the main panel it is wrong? Code requires the ground and neutral bus bars to be bonded together in the main panel, and requires them to be electrically *isolated* in subpanels. To be honest I cant rememebr I will have to look if they are isolated in the sub panel. How is the connection between the two "isolated"? It has been a long time... Used to be a screw with a paper tag attached to it by the ground and neutral connections. Tag said to install screw to bond ground to neutral or similar words. Leave said screw out if you don't want the two bonded (shrug). I've seen some panels -- granted, not recently -- that shipped with the bonding screw already installed, with instructions to take it out if the panel would be used as a subpanel. And the absence of a bonding screw does *not* mean that the two bars are isolated. There might be a bonding *jumper* instead: in a main panel, Code permits bonding the neutral bar to the box directly, or to the ground bar. |
#27
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Sub panel to a sub panel
On Mon, 13 Jul 2009 08:29:52 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote: On Jul 13, 10:01Â*am, "Tim" wrote: "stryped" wrote in message ... I am building a detatched garage about 75 feet from my attached garage. I have my main panel and a sub panel beside each other in my attached garage. The sub panel only has my small upstairs heat pump/ air conditioner for a bonus room hooked to it as well as a 50 amp plug for a small welder I almost never use. Can I run a sub panel in my new detached garage/workshop from the sub panel in my current attached garage? If so, do I need another ground rod at the detached garage? If it helps, I can remove the 50 amp welding plug because I only plan to wel in the detached garage anyway. I have 200 amp service in my main panel. I think the sub panel next to it I bought was either a 50 or 100 amp panel but like I sais, the only thing on it is the 1.5 ton heat pump. It is usually turned off as the upstairs is a play room for the kids. I added the sub panel because all of the breakers in my main pannel were almost full. Make a hole in the main panel for another sub panel, just like you did before. Move a couple of circuits to the other sub if necessary. Â*Yes you will need a main panel, ground rods and fused disconnect at the new shop. I'd leave the welding plug for possible future use. It only matters if you try to use it while heavily loaded on other circuits, but if everything is fused/breakered correctly you should still be safe.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - is there a reason to run the second sub from the main panel rather than the 1st sub panel? Do I need a disconnect on top of having a panel in the attached garage with a main breaker? Where would I put it, on the outside of the building? If the main panel in the separate garage is within a few feet of the door and is, again, a main panel type with it's own main breaker no other disconnect is required. Running the second sub from the main panel WOULD be the preferred method. Fewer connections between the meter and the load that way. Each series connection is a possible point of resistance, and therefore voltage drop. |
#28
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Sub panel to a sub panel
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#29
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Sub panel to a sub panel
On Mon, 13 Jul 2009 10:42:02 -0500, "Tim" wrote:
"stryped" wrote in message ... -is there a reason to run the second sub from the main panel rather -than the 1st sub panel? Yes, you want your load to come through the 200 amp main breaker if you have a 200 amp meter can and service. Connecting up stream or bypassing the 200 amp main could allow you to overload the service. Pardon? The first sub is protected by the main as well as the 100 amp distribution breaker. Connecting the second sub to that could not contribute to overloading the service. However, it would be better to bypass that second panel and put the outbuilding feed directly on the main breaker panel -Do I need a disconnect on top of having a panel in the attached garage -with a main breaker? Where would I put it, on the outside of the -building? I'm not certain what the codes say, but a disconnect on the outside of your main service panel could be a good idea just before you go underground. When you come up to the new service, a fused disconnect shouldn't be necessary if you come through the wall, and immediately in to your new panel. If you cannot locate your new main panel, just inside the wall from your service entrance, then yes, a fused disconnect would be a must. |
#30
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Sub panel to a sub panel
On Mon, 13 Jul 2009 11:33:43 -0700 (PDT), stryped
wrote: What do you mean if I installed it the same as the main panel it is wrong? I put a (rated) 100 am sub panel right next to the main panel. There is a 100 amp breaker in the main panel feeding the sub panel and also a 100 amp main breaker in the sub panel. the ground in the sub runs to the grounding bus in the main panel. One of the 100 amp breakers is redundant. Won't hurt anything but not required if the panels are side by side. |
#31
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Sub panel to a sub panel
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#32
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Sub panel to a sub panel
In article , David Lesher wrote:
(Doug Miller) writes: In a subpanel, the two bars MUST NOT be electrically connected. I don't claim to know the code, but if this is a standalone building, I'd verify the same rule applied. I believe it does but... This applies to any subpanel, regardless of whether it's in a separate building or not. If he installs a separate _service entrance_ in the new building instead -- that is, *not* fed from his existing service -- then it would be a main panel. |
#33
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Sub panel to a sub panel
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#34
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Sub panel to a sub panel
Specifically the 100A breaker in the subpanel is redundant. The 100A breaker in the main panel is required, to provide overcurrent protection for the feeder to the subpanel. In his new building, he needs both: one whichever panel the feeder is taken from (to protect the feeder), and one in the subpanel in the new building (to provide a disconnect for that building). Doug et al There is an exception in the NEC for this. If the feed from the main panel is from a 60 AMP or smaller breaker, a main in the sub panel is not required. Also some AHJs have made the exception moot by other requirements. The additional/new panel can be rated at larger then 60 Amps also. Mine is 125 amp. Gives me 20 spaces I think it is. This makes the panel a 60 Amp though. My neutral and ground are separated and I have a 10" ground bar also. Habitable structure or not, also makes a difference. Bob AZ |
#35
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Sub panel to a sub panel
wrote in message ... On Mon, 13 Jul 2009 10:42:02 -0500, "Tim" wrote: "stryped" wrote in message ... -is there a reason to run the second sub from the main panel rather -than the 1st sub panel? Yes, you want your load to come through the 200 amp main breaker if you have a 200 amp meter can and service. Connecting up stream or bypassing the 200 amp main could allow you to overload the service. Pardon? The first sub is protected by the main as well as the 100 amp distribution breaker. Connecting the second sub to that could not contribute to overloading the service. However, it would be better to bypass that second panel and put the outbuilding feed directly on the main breaker panel I think you miss read me. The first sub is protected by a 100, I was say don't bypass the 200 amp main in the main panel, or come off the meter can. The service entrance is should only be wired for 200 amp, and feeding a 200 amp panel and a 100 panel off the meter could result in drawing 300 amps through the service. |
#36
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Sub panel to a sub panel
"stryped" wrote in message ... On Jul 13, 10:42 am, "Tim" wrote: "stryped" wrote in message -What size panel for the new garage would I need? (If my home service -is 200 amps, and my current sub panel is 100 amps?) Can I put another -100 amp panel in my new garage/shop? Yes. Just remember if your collective load cannot exceed 200 amps. That's why you want all your loads to come through the original main breaker. -l have to route the cable under the house (crawl space) and -outside under a deck to a ditch to the new shop. So you are sayign a -disconnect where the wite comes out of the house? (Which would be -under the deck). Probably not, but I don't recall what the codes say. -B the way, I will have to disconnect somethignin the main panel to -give me space for the extra sub panel. If there is not enough slack to -move it over. (wire wise). What can I do? Splice it. |
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