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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Easily cutting metric lens threads on inch lathe
Sorry for the long subject line folks,
Anyway, it seems that camera lens threads are all, or mostly all, 75mm pitch. Cutting metric threads on an inch lathe is of course a hassle. 34 TPI would be close enough but my gearbox doesn't have a 34 TPI option. Looking at the change gears that came with my lathe (which has a quick change gearbox), I figured that there must be some combination of two gears and the quick change gearbox that would get me close enough to the inch equivalent of .75mm. It turns out that I have a 30 tooth gear and a 32 tooth gear and that the ratio between these gears, times 36 TPI, which my lathe does have, results in a pitch only .0001 different than .75mm, calculated to 5 places. My lathe has two ratio settings for both the headstock gearbox and the threading gearbox. The headstock gearbox output is either 1:1 or 2:1 in relation to the spindle. The threading gearbox input is either 1:2 or 2:1. So, in order to get the .75mm pitch I set the headstock gearbox to the 2:1 ratio and the quick change (threading) gearbox to 36 TPI. The change gears are mounted so that the headstock gear is the 32 tooth gear and the quick change gearbox gear is the 30 tooth gear. The ratio between the 32 and 30 tooth gears is 1:1.06666666667. The pitch of 36 TPI is .02778 and .75 mm is .02952. 1.066666667 times 02778 is .02962, which is only .00010 more than .02952(.75mm). I'm pretty certain that all lathes with quick change gearboxes will have even ratios of spindle revs to quick change gearbox input revs, so as long as a 32 tooth gear drives a 30 tooth gear (or any set of gears with a 1:1.0666666667 ratio), through an idler or not, you should be able to cut a .75mm pitch thread and still release the halfnuts after each pass. I'm sure someone has already posted this info on usenet but I needed this today and thought it might be useful to someone else. Especially considering the ubiquity of asian lathes. Cheers, Eric |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Easily cutting metric lens threads on inch lathe
On Feb 18, 9:59*pm, wrote:
...It turns out that I have a 30 tooth gear and a 32 tooth gear and that the ratio between these gears, times 36 TPI, which my lathe does have, results in a pitch only .0001 different than .75mm, calculated to 5 places. ... Eric Good idea. My lathe's gearbox chart was missing so I made one up with a spreadsheet. I changed a copy of it to show the metric modulus for each pitch and experimented with gear ratio multipliers to get exact values. Jim Wilkins |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Easily cutting metric lens threads on inch lathe
On Thu, 19 Feb 2009 05:23:36 -0800 (PST), Jim Wilkins
wrote: On Feb 18, 9:59=A0pm, wrote: ...It turns out that I have a 30 tooth gear and a 32 tooth gear and that the ratio between these gears, times 36 TPI, which my lathe does have, results in a pitch only .0001 different than .75mm, calculated to 5 places. ... Eric Good idea. My lathe's gearbox chart was missing so I made one up with a spreadsheet. I changed a copy of it to show the metric modulus for each pitch and experimented with gear ratio multipliers to get exact values. Jim Wilkins Thanks. I hope it helps someone else out. Now that I figured that one out I'm gonna try for some other common pitches. ERS |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Easily cutting metric lens threads on inch lathe
wrote in message ... Sorry for the long subject line folks, Anyway, it seems that camera lens threads are all, or mostly all, 75mm pitch. Cutting metric threads on an inch lathe is of course a hassle. 34 TPI would be close enough but my gearbox doesn't have a 34 TPI option. Looking at the change gears that came with my lathe (which has a quick change gearbox), I figured that there must be some combination of two gears and the quick change gearbox that would get me close enough to the inch equivalent of .75mm. It turns out that I have a 30 tooth gear and a 32 tooth gear and that the ratio between these gears, times 36 TPI, which my lathe does have, results in a pitch only .0001 different than .75mm, calculated to 5 places. My lathe has two ratio settings for both the headstock gearbox and the threading gearbox. The headstock gearbox output is either 1:1 or 2:1 in relation to the spindle. The threading gearbox input is either 1:2 or 2:1. So, in order to get the .75mm pitch I set the headstock gearbox to the 2:1 ratio and the quick change (threading) gearbox to 36 TPI. The change gears are mounted so that the headstock gear is the 32 tooth gear and the quick change gearbox gear is the 30 tooth gear. The ratio between the 32 and 30 tooth gears is 1:1.06666666667. The pitch of 36 TPI is .02778 and .75 mm is .02952. 1.066666667 times 02778 is .02962, which is only .00010 more than .02952(.75mm). I'm pretty certain that all lathes with quick change gearboxes will have even ratios of spindle revs to quick change gearbox input revs, so as long as a 32 tooth gear drives a 30 tooth gear (or any set of gears with a 1:1.0666666667 ratio), through an idler or not, you should be able to cut a .75mm pitch thread and still release the halfnuts after each pass. I'm sure someone has already posted this info on usenet but I needed this today and thought it might be useful to someone else. Especially considering the ubiquity of asian lathes. Cheers, Eric I like your thinking on the gear ratios. Be very careful about opening the half nuts as the success of that has to do with the pitch of the leadscrew, the thread dial gear, and the pitch being cut. I do not believe that your system will reliably re-engage the feed without loosing its synchronization if you allow the dial to go all the way around. A metric thread re-synchronizes with an inch leadscrew every 127 turns of the spindle so a 0.75MM thread synchronizes every 3.75 inches. If your thread dial goes around to the next starting point when you move the carriage 3.75 inches you are good to go. About the only one I know will work is 0.8MM which synchronizes every 4 inches and that is the distance for a 32T gear on a 8TPI leadscrew. Of course if you are not using a 127 tooth gear your error multiplies for each revolution of the dial also. I think the best way, if you really need to open the half-nuts, is to just watch the dial and back up the lathe so it does not go around. Don Young |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Easily cutting metric lens threads on inch lathe
"Don Young" wrote in message webinternetservicesprovideinc... wrote in message ... Sorry for the long subject line folks, Anyway, it seems that camera lens threads are all, or mostly all, 75mm pitch. Cutting metric threads on an inch lathe is of course a hassle. 34 TPI would be close enough but my gearbox doesn't have a 34 TPI option. Looking at the change gears that came with my lathe (which has a quick change gearbox), I figured that there must be some combination of two gears and the quick change gearbox that would get me close enough to the inch equivalent of .75mm. It turns out that I have a 30 tooth gear and a 32 tooth gear and that the ratio between these gears, times 36 TPI, which my lathe does have, results in a pitch only .0001 different than .75mm, calculated to 5 places. My lathe has two ratio settings for both the headstock gearbox and the threading gearbox. The headstock gearbox output is either 1:1 or 2:1 in relation to the spindle. The threading gearbox input is either 1:2 or 2:1. So, in order to get the .75mm pitch I set the headstock gearbox to the 2:1 ratio and the quick change (threading) gearbox to 36 TPI. The change gears are mounted so that the headstock gear is the 32 tooth gear and the quick change gearbox gear is the 30 tooth gear. The ratio between the 32 and 30 tooth gears is 1:1.06666666667. The pitch of 36 TPI is .02778 and .75 mm is .02952. 1.066666667 times 02778 is .02962, which is only .00010 more than .02952(.75mm). I'm pretty certain that all lathes with quick change gearboxes will have even ratios of spindle revs to quick change gearbox input revs, so as long as a 32 tooth gear drives a 30 tooth gear (or any set of gears with a 1:1.0666666667 ratio), through an idler or not, you should be able to cut a .75mm pitch thread and still release the halfnuts after each pass. I'm sure someone has already posted this info on usenet but I needed this today and thought it might be useful to someone else. Especially considering the ubiquity of asian lathes. Cheers, Eric I like your thinking on the gear ratios. Be very careful about opening the half nuts as the success of that has to do with the pitch of the leadscrew, the thread dial gear, and the pitch being cut. I do not believe that your system will reliably re-engage the feed without loosing its synchronization if you allow the dial to go all the way around. A metric thread re-synchronizes with an inch leadscrew every 127 turns of the spindle so a 0.75MM thread synchronizes every 3.75 inches. If your thread dial goes around to the next starting point when you move the carriage 3.75 inches you are good to go. About the only one I know will work is 0.8MM which synchronizes every 4 inches and that is the distance for a 32T gear on a 8TPI leadscrew. Of course if you are not using a 127 tooth gear your error multiplies for each revolution of the dial also. I think the best way, if you really need to open the half-nuts, is to just watch the dial and back up the lathe so it does not go around. Don Young I noticed on another group that you indicated your success at opening the half nuts was due to you actually cutting a 36TPI thread. Because of the gear change you are actually cutting a 33 3/4 TPI thread. Your thread dial will work for this if its gear has teeth equal to 4 times the leadscrew pitch and you always use the same point on the dial. This requires 4 inches for the gear to go around and will work correctly for threads that are a multiple of 1/4 TPI. Good work!! Don Young |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Easily cutting metric lens threads on inch lathe
Don Young wrote:
"Don Young" wrote in message webinternetservicesprovideinc... wrote in message ... Sorry for the long subject line folks, Anyway, it seems that camera lens threads are all, or mostly all, 75mm pitch. Cutting metric threads on an inch lathe is of course a hassle. 34 TPI would be close enough but my gearbox doesn't have a 34 TPI option. Looking at the change gears that came with my lathe (which has a quick change gearbox), I figured that there must be some combination of two gears and the quick change gearbox that would get me close enough to the inch equivalent of .75mm. It turns out that I have a 30 tooth gear and a 32 tooth gear and that the ratio between these gears, times 36 TPI, which my lathe does have, results in a pitch only .0001 different than .75mm, calculated to 5 places. My lathe has two ratio settings for both the headstock gearbox and the threading gearbox. The headstock gearbox output is either 1:1 or 2:1 in relation to the spindle. The threading gearbox input is either 1:2 or 2:1. So, in order to get the .75mm pitch I set the headstock gearbox to the 2:1 ratio and the quick change (threading) gearbox to 36 TPI. The change gears are mounted so that the headstock gear is the 32 tooth gear and the quick change gearbox gear is the 30 tooth gear. The ratio between the 32 and 30 tooth gears is 1:1.06666666667. The pitch of 36 TPI is .02778 and .75 mm is .02952. 1.066666667 times 02778 is .02962, which is only .00010 more than .02952(.75mm). I'm pretty certain that all lathes with quick change gearboxes will have even ratios of spindle revs to quick change gearbox input revs, so as long as a 32 tooth gear drives a 30 tooth gear (or any set of gears with a 1:1.0666666667 ratio), through an idler or not, you should be able to cut a .75mm pitch thread and still release the halfnuts after each pass. I'm sure someone has already posted this info on usenet but I needed this today and thought it might be useful to someone else. Especially considering the ubiquity of asian lathes. Cheers, Eric I like your thinking on the gear ratios. Be very careful about opening the half nuts as the success of that has to do with the pitch of the leadscrew, the thread dial gear, and the pitch being cut. I do not believe that your system will reliably re-engage the feed without loosing its synchronization if you allow the dial to go all the way around. A metric thread re-synchronizes with an inch leadscrew every 127 turns of the spindle so a 0.75MM thread synchronizes every 3.75 inches. If your thread dial goes around to the next starting point when you move the carriage 3.75 inches you are good to go. About the only one I know will work is 0.8MM which synchronizes every 4 inches and that is the distance for a 32T gear on a 8TPI leadscrew. Of course if you are not using a 127 tooth gear your error multiplies for each revolution of the dial also. I think the best way, if you really need to open the half-nuts, is to just watch the dial and back up the lathe so it does not go around. Don Young I noticed on another group that you indicated your success at opening the half nuts was due to you actually cutting a 36TPI thread. Because of the gear change you are actually cutting a 33 3/4 TPI thread. Your thread dial will work for this if its gear has teeth equal to 4 times the leadscrew pitch and you always use the same point on the dial. This requires 4 inches for the gear to go around and will work correctly for threads that are a multiple of 1/4 TPI. Good work!! Don Young Has anyone any idea how/if these threads (in particular the 0.75mm one for lens filters) might be cut on a Myford ML7 (NOT a Super7) with a gearbox? Dave (UK) |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Easily cutting metric lens threads on inch lathe
On Feb 20, 10:47*pm, "Davebt" wrote:
Has anyone any idea how/if these threads (in particular the 0.75mm one for lens filters) might be cut on a Myford ML7 (NOT a Super7) with a gearbox? Dave *(UK)- 0.75mm = 0.0295275" 0.0295275" * 127/120 = 0.0312499" modulus, 1/0.0312499 = 32.000064 TPI. Set the gearbox for 32 TPI with a 127/120 compound in the train instead of an idler. 120 and 127 tooth, 16DP change gears cost around $100 apiece in the USA. 100 is better for the standard screw pitches. I found 120 with the spreadsheet method mentioned in a previous post. Jim Wilkins |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Easily cutting metric lens threads on inch lathe
On Sat, 21 Feb 2009 03:47:20 -0000, "Davebt"
wrote: Don Young wrote: "Don Young" wrote in message webinternetservicesprovideinc... wrote in message ... Sorry for the long subject line folks, Anyway, it seems that camera lens threads are all, or mostly all, 75mm pitch. Cutting metric threads on an inch lathe is of course a hassle. 34 TPI would be close enough but my gearbox doesn't have a 34 TPI option. Looking at the change gears that came with my lathe (which has a quick change gearbox), I figured that there must be some combination of two gears and the quick change gearbox that would get me close enough to the inch equivalent of .75mm. It turns out that I have a 30 tooth gear and a 32 tooth gear and that the ratio between these gears, times 36 TPI, which my lathe does have, results in a pitch only .0001 different than .75mm, calculated to 5 places. My lathe has two ratio settings for both the headstock gearbox and the threading gearbox. The headstock gearbox output is either 1:1 or 2:1 in relation to the spindle. The threading gearbox input is either 1:2 or 2:1. So, in order to get the .75mm pitch I set the headstock gearbox to the 2:1 ratio and the quick change (threading) gearbox to 36 TPI. The change gears are mounted so that the headstock gear is the 32 tooth gear and the quick change gearbox gear is the 30 tooth gear. The ratio between the 32 and 30 tooth gears is 1:1.06666666667. The pitch of 36 TPI is .02778 and .75 mm is .02952. 1.066666667 times 02778 is .02962, which is only .00010 more than .02952(.75mm). I'm pretty certain that all lathes with quick change gearboxes will have even ratios of spindle revs to quick change gearbox input revs, so as long as a 32 tooth gear drives a 30 tooth gear (or any set of gears with a 1:1.0666666667 ratio), through an idler or not, you should be able to cut a .75mm pitch thread and still release the halfnuts after each pass. I'm sure someone has already posted this info on usenet but I needed this today and thought it might be useful to someone else. Especially considering the ubiquity of asian lathes. Cheers, Eric I like your thinking on the gear ratios. Be very careful about opening the half nuts as the success of that has to do with the pitch of the leadscrew, the thread dial gear, and the pitch being cut. I do not believe that your system will reliably re-engage the feed without loosing its synchronization if you allow the dial to go all the way around. A metric thread re-synchronizes with an inch leadscrew every 127 turns of the spindle so a 0.75MM thread synchronizes every 3.75 inches. If your thread dial goes around to the next starting point when you move the carriage 3.75 inches you are good to go. About the only one I know will work is 0.8MM which synchronizes every 4 inches and that is the distance for a 32T gear on a 8TPI leadscrew. Of course if you are not using a 127 tooth gear your error multiplies for each revolution of the dial also. I think the best way, if you really need to open the half-nuts, is to just watch the dial and back up the lathe so it does not go around. Don Young I noticed on another group that you indicated your success at opening the half nuts was due to you actually cutting a 36TPI thread. Because of the gear change you are actually cutting a 33 3/4 TPI thread. Your thread dial will work for this if its gear has teeth equal to 4 times the leadscrew pitch and you always use the same point on the dial. This requires 4 inches for the gear to go around and will work correctly for threads that are a multiple of 1/4 TPI. Good work!! Don Young Has anyone any idea how/if these threads (in particular the 0.75mm one for lens filters) might be cut on a Myford ML7 (NOT a Super7) with a gearbox? Dave (UK) ------------- Calculation of the required gears is the easy part. Given that these threads are generally to a shoulder and that you cannot disengage the half nut when using inch/metric change gears you will most likely want to get or make a spindle hand crank for threading. The threading tool will also be critical given the small size of the thread. More than likely you will need to grind a special tool with one side straight and the other side 30 degrees for a 60 degree included angle. This will let you get up next to the shoulder. for an example see http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct...tnumber=607918 Be sure to set the compound/top-slide to 29 to 30 degrees and advance the tool using this so the bulk of the cut is to the front. It can also be helpful to cut a relief all the way around the part next to the shoulder, one thread wide. For some ideas on the hand crank see http://mcduffee-associates.us/machin...ndle_crank.htm Be very careful not to turn the lathe on with the crank installed. It will whack the c**p out of you and/or shake the lathe off its table/mounting pads. On the Emco we always popped the spindle belt off [after the first time]. a cross slide stop may also be helpful. see http://mcduffee-associates.us/machining/thrdstp01.htm Use the crosslide to retract the tool to crank back to the start position. A stop will help avoid loss of zero. Good luck and let the group know how you make out and any shortcuts you discover. Unka' George [George McDuffee] ------------------------------------------- He that will not apply new remedies, must expect new evils: for Time is the greatest innovator: and if Time, of course, alter things to the worse, and wisdom and counsel shall not alter them to the better, what shall be the end? Francis Bacon (1561-1626), English philosopher, essayist, statesman. Essays, "Of Innovations" (1597-1625). |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Easily cutting metric lens threads on inch lathe
On Thu, 19 Feb 2009 22:20:53 -0600, "Don Young"
wrote: "Don Young" wrote in message dwebinternetservicesprovideinc... wrote in message ... Sorry for the long subject line folks, Anyway, it seems that camera lens threads are all, or mostly all, 75mm pitch. Cutting metric threads on an inch lathe is of course a hassle. 34 TPI would be close enough but my gearbox doesn't have a 34 TPI option. Looking at the change gears that came with my lathe (which has a quick change gearbox), I figured that there must be some combination of two gears and the quick change gearbox that would get me close enough to the inch equivalent of .75mm. It turns out that I have a 30 tooth gear and a 32 tooth gear and that the ratio between these gears, times 36 TPI, which my lathe does have, results in a pitch only .0001 different than .75mm, calculated to 5 places. My lathe has two ratio settings for both the headstock gearbox and the threading gearbox. The headstock gearbox output is either 1:1 or 2:1 in relation to the spindle. The threading gearbox input is either 1:2 or 2:1. So, in order to get the .75mm pitch I set the headstock gearbox to the 2:1 ratio and the quick change (threading) gearbox to 36 TPI. The change gears are mounted so that the headstock gear is the 32 tooth gear and the quick change gearbox gear is the 30 tooth gear. The ratio between the 32 and 30 tooth gears is 1:1.06666666667. The pitch of 36 TPI is .02778 and .75 mm is .02952. 1.066666667 times 02778 is .02962, which is only .00010 more than .02952(.75mm). I'm pretty certain that all lathes with quick change gearboxes will have even ratios of spindle revs to quick change gearbox input revs, so as long as a 32 tooth gear drives a 30 tooth gear (or any set of gears with a 1:1.0666666667 ratio), through an idler or not, you should be able to cut a .75mm pitch thread and still release the halfnuts after each pass. I'm sure someone has already posted this info on usenet but I needed this today and thought it might be useful to someone else. Especially considering the ubiquity of asian lathes. Cheers, Eric I like your thinking on the gear ratios. Be very careful about opening the half nuts as the success of that has to do with the pitch of the leadscrew, the thread dial gear, and the pitch being cut. I do not believe that your system will reliably re-engage the feed without loosing its synchronization if you allow the dial to go all the way around. A metric thread re-synchronizes with an inch leadscrew every 127 turns of the spindle so a 0.75MM thread synchronizes every 3.75 inches. If your thread dial goes around to the next starting point when you move the carriage 3.75 inches you are good to go. About the only one I know will work is 0.8MM which synchronizes every 4 inches and that is the distance for a 32T gear on a 8TPI leadscrew. Of course if you are not using a 127 tooth gear your error multiplies for each revolution of the dial also. I think the best way, if you really need to open the half-nuts, is to just watch the dial and back up the lathe so it does not go around. Don Young I noticed on another group that you indicated your success at opening the half nuts was due to you actually cutting a 36TPI thread. Because of the gear change you are actually cutting a 33 3/4 TPI thread. Your thread dial will work for this if its gear has teeth equal to 4 times the leadscrew pitch and you always use the same point on the dial. This requires 4 inches for the gear to go around and will work correctly for threads that are a multiple of 1/4 TPI. Good work!! Don Young Greetings Don, I do engage the half nuts only at the number 1 position every time. I should have said that the QC gearbox was set at 36 TPI and I was actually cutting close to 34 TPI as you noted. Cheers, Eric |
#10
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Easily cutting metric lens threads on inch lathe
Don Young wrote:
"Don Young" wrote in message webinternetservicesprovideinc... wrote in message ... Sorry for the long subject line folks, Anyway, it seems that camera lens threads are all, or mostly all, 75mm pitch. Cutting metric threads on an inch lathe is of course a hassle. 34 TPI would be close enough but my gearbox doesn't have a 34 TPI option. Looking at the change gears that came with my lathe (which has a quick change gearbox), I figured that there must be some combination of two gears and the quick change gearbox that would get me close enough to the inch equivalent of .75mm. It turns out that I have a 30 tooth gear and a 32 tooth gear and that the ratio between these gears, times 36 TPI, which my lathe does have, results in a pitch only .0001 different than .75mm, calculated to 5 places. My lathe has two ratio settings for both the headstock gearbox and the threading gearbox. The headstock gearbox output is either 1:1 or 2:1 in relation to the spindle. The threading gearbox input is either 1:2 or 2:1. So, in order to get the .75mm pitch I set the headstock gearbox to the 2:1 ratio and the quick change (threading) gearbox to 36 TPI. The change gears are mounted so that the headstock gear is the 32 tooth gear and the quick change gearbox gear is the 30 tooth gear. The ratio between the 32 and 30 tooth gears is 1:1.06666666667. The pitch of 36 TPI is .02778 and .75 mm is .02952. 1.066666667 times 02778 is .02962, which is only .00010 more than .02952(.75mm). I'm pretty certain that all lathes with quick change gearboxes will have even ratios of spindle revs to quick change gearbox input revs, so as long as a 32 tooth gear drives a 30 tooth gear (or any set of gears with a 1:1.0666666667 ratio), through an idler or not, you should be able to cut a .75mm pitch thread and still release the halfnuts after each pass. I'm sure someone has already posted this info on usenet but I needed this today and thought it might be useful to someone else. Especially considering the ubiquity of asian lathes. Cheers, Eric I like your thinking on the gear ratios. Be very careful about opening the half nuts as the success of that has to do with the pitch of the leadscrew, the thread dial gear, and the pitch being cut. I do not believe that your system will reliably re-engage the feed without loosing its synchronization if you allow the dial to go all the way around. A metric thread re-synchronizes with an inch leadscrew every 127 turns of the spindle so a 0.75MM thread synchronizes every 3.75 inches. If your thread dial goes around to the next starting point when you move the carriage 3.75 inches you are good to go. About the only one I know will work is 0.8MM which synchronizes every 4 inches and that is the distance for a 32T gear on a 8TPI leadscrew. Of course if you are not using a 127 tooth gear your error multiplies for each revolution of the dial also. I think the best way, if you really need to open the half-nuts, is to just watch the dial and back up the lathe so it does not go around. Don Young I noticed on another group that you indicated your success at opening the half nuts was due to you actually cutting a 36TPI thread. Because of the gear change you are actually cutting a 33 3/4 TPI thread. Your thread dial will work for this if its gear has teeth equal to 4 times the leadscrew pitch and you always use the same point on the dial. This requires 4 inches for the gear to go around and will work correctly for threads that are a multiple of 1/4 TPI. Good work!! Don Young Has anyone any idea how/if these threads (in particular the 0.75mm one for lens filters) might be cut on a Myford ML7 (NOT a Super7) with a gearbox? Dave (UK) |
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