What would be the best way to get it out without damaging anything.
Phillips head is buggered out. I have tried WD 40 andvice grips to no
avail.

This is on a small engine. I tried a propane torch and vice grips too
but did not work. I have aceytlene but was a little afraid I might
damage the cylinder or something?

I bought a bolt extractor from HF. Have not tried that much yet.

Jus climb into he Wayback Machine and apply antiseize to the screw
before it goes in.
JR
Dweller in the cellar


stryped wrote:
What would be the best way to get it out without damaging anything.
Phillips head is buggered out. I have tried WD 40 andvice grips to no
avail.

This is on a small engine. I tried a propane torch and vice grips too
but did not work. I have aceytlene but was a little afraid I might
damage the cylinder or something?

I bought a bolt extractor from HF. Have not tried that much yet.

--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes
Doubt yourself, and the real world will eat you alive
The world doesn't revolve around you, it revolves around me
No skeletons in the closet; just decomposing corpses
--------------------------------------------------------------
Dependence is Vulnerability:
--------------------------------------------------------------
"Open the Pod Bay Doors please, Hal"
"I'm sorry, Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.."

On Jan 16, 11:22*am, stryped wrote:
What would be the best way to get it out without damaging anything.
Phillips head is buggered out. I have tried WD 40 andvice grips to no
avail.

This is on a small engine. I tried a propane torch and vice grips too
but did not work. I have aceytlene but was a little afraid I might
damage the cylinder or something?

I bought a bolt extractor from HF. Have not tried that much yet.

You could hit the store and get a hammer-type (manual) impact driver.

http://tinyurl.com/craftsman-impact-driver

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impact_driver

You can get out a fairly well buggered phillips-head with one of these
since the bit is driven into the screw quite strongly.

Dave

On Fri, 16 Jan 2009 08:22:40 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

What would be the best way to get it out without damaging anything.
Phillips head is buggered out. I have tried WD 40 andvice grips to no
avail.

This is on a small engine. I tried a propane torch and vice grips too
but did not work. I have aceytlene but was a little afraid I might
damage the cylinder or something?

I bought a bolt extractor from HF. Have not tried that much yet.

If heat and visegrips won't budge it, a bolt-extractor won't either.
If (when) the hard bolt extractor breaks off in the bolt, you then
have a real problem.

My approaches would be:

1) drill a hole in a bit of metal, place that over the screw head,
weld it quickly with TIG, MIG or stick. That'll go so fast it won't
have time to harmfully heat up the cylinder. Then tap on the new
"handle" until it either comes out or breaks off. This often works,
partly because the short-duration intense heat on the bolt tends to
break corrosion and loosen it.

2) If (1) is impractical or doesn't work: drill out the bolt, re-tap
the hole. If you miss the center you may need to drill oversize and
shoot in a helicoil.

I definitely would not screw around with a bolt extractor,
particularly one from HF.

On Fri, 16 Jan 2009 08:22:40 -0800 (PST), stryped wrote:

What would be the best way to get it out without damaging anything.
Phillips head is buggered out. I have tried WD 40 andvice grips to no
avail.

This is on a small engine. I tried a propane torch and vice grips too
but did not work. I have aceytlene but was a little afraid I might
damage the cylinder or something?

I bought a bolt extractor from HF. Have not tried that much yet.

If there is access use a dremel to cut a slot, then use an impact driver.

You might get away with an impact driver phillips (if you have not yet
tried one) if the head is not too badly damaged.

I have found the the best way to use an impact driver is to carefully seat
the bit, carefully take up the rotational slack, and carefully hit it
REALLY REALLY HARD with a BIG hammer ("carefully" in the third step meaning
hit the end of the tool instead of my thumb).

If that does not work then if the screw is holding something on that has
some thickness, grind the head off flush with the something, then remove
the something, then go after the stump with your vicegrips.

Use some grease on the threads of the new screw.

"Don Foreman" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 16 Jan 2009 08:22:40 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

What would be the best way to get it out without damaging anything.
Phillips head is buggered out. I have tried WD 40 andvice grips to no
avail.

This is on a small engine. I tried a propane torch and vice grips too
but did not work. I have aceytlene but was a little afraid I might
damage the cylinder or something?

I bought a bolt extractor from HF. Have not tried that much yet.

If heat and visegrips won't budge it, a bolt-extractor won't either.
If (when) the hard bolt extractor breaks off in the bolt, you then
have a real problem.

My approaches would be:

1) drill a hole in a bit of metal, place that over the screw head,
weld it quickly with TIG, MIG or stick. That'll go so fast it won't
have time to harmfully heat up the cylinder. Then tap on the new
"handle" until it either comes out or breaks off. This often works,
partly because the short-duration intense heat on the bolt tends to
break corrosion and loosen it.

Don
I have used this method many times with good success. I first tried it in
desperation on a broken aluminum water pump mounting bolt. I used to have a
collection of stuck fasteners in my toolbox that that I had won the battle
with.
Steve

On Fri, 16 Jan 2009 08:22:40 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

What would be the best way to get it out without damaging anything.
Phillips head is buggered out. I have tried WD 40 andvice grips to no
avail.

This is on a small engine. I tried a propane torch and vice grips too
but did not work. I have aceytlene but was a little afraid I might
damage the cylinder or something?

I bought a bolt extractor from HF. Have not tried that much yet.


Use an impact screwdriver as mentioned above. It can be embarrassing how
easily stuck screws come out with one...

Mark Rand
RTFM

stryped wrote:
What would be the best way to get it out without damaging anything.
Phillips head is buggered out. I have tried WD 40 andvice grips to no
avail.

This is on a small engine. I tried a propane torch and vice grips too
but did not work. I have aceytlene but was a little afraid I might
damage the cylinder or something?

I bought a bolt extractor from HF. Have not tried that much yet.

I'd be inclined to try the impact driver first as others have mentioned.
The muffler fitting I have seen on small engines that use a bolt fitment
has the bolt going through the muffler so until you remove the muffler
you can't get the heat to where the thread enters the block, heating the
screw head alone is likely to sod all good as it's too far away from the
block. If the screw head can be ground off and the muffler removed then
careful heating of the screw adjacent to the block may get enough heat
in there to help loosen it, that and and you can get some penetrating
oil at the thread. Alternating heating and application of the
penetrating oil should help free it if heat alone doesn't.

"David Billington" wrote: (clip) If the screw head can be ground off and
the muffler removed then
careful heating of the screw adjacent to the block may get enough heat in
there to help loosen it, (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
If you can grind the head off. that may release enough tension on the bolt
to let you turn it with vise grips.

The last resort method I have used, which generally works is:

Drill carefully into the center of the bolt. Correct centering errors by
leaning the pistol drill as necessary. Start with a small drill bit, and
then increase the size in steps. You will reach a diameter where there is
very slight contact between the drill and the ID of the threaded hole. At
this point you can probably pull it out like a spring with a pair of needle
nose, or clean it out with a tap. If your drilled hole is slightly off
center, then pulling it out like a spring won't happen, but you may be able
to pick it out or tap it out.

This does not require any heat.

On Fri, 16 Jan 2009 11:21:21 -0600, Don Foreman
wrote:

On Fri, 16 Jan 2009 08:22:40 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

What would be the best way to get it out without damaging anything.
Phillips head is buggered out. I have tried WD 40 andvice grips to no
avail.

This is on a small engine. I tried a propane torch and vice grips too
but did not work. I have aceytlene but was a little afraid I might
damage the cylinder or something?

I bought a bolt extractor from HF. Have not tried that much yet.

If heat and visegrips won't budge it, a bolt-extractor won't either.
If (when) the hard bolt extractor breaks off in the bolt, you then
have a real problem.

My approaches would be:

1) drill a hole in a bit of metal, place that over the screw head,
weld it quickly with TIG, MIG or stick. That'll go so fast it won't
have time to harmfully heat up the cylinder. Then tap on the new
"handle" until it either comes out or breaks off. This often works,
partly because the short-duration intense heat on the bolt tends to
break corrosion and loosen it.

2) If (1) is impractical or doesn't work: drill out the bolt, re-tap
the hole. If you miss the center you may need to drill oversize and
shoot in a helicoil.

I definitely would not screw around with a bolt extractor,
particularly one from HF.


Pop the head off the bolt and remove the muffler - then heat the bolt
where it goes into the block, tap the enfd of the cut-off bolt with a
light hammer, quench the bolt, and spray a GOOD penetrant like Kroil
or "MouseMilk" on it. Heat it again and twist it out with a stud
extractor or vice-grips.

On Jan 16, 11:32*am, "Up North" wrote:
"Don Foreman" wrote in message

...





On Fri, 16 Jan 2009 08:22:40 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

What would be the best way to get it out without damaging anything.
Phillips head is buggered out. I have tried WD 40 andvice grips to no
avail.

This is on a small engine. I tried a propane torch and vice grips too
but did not work. I have aceytlene but was a little afraid I might
damage the cylinder or something?

I bought a bolt extractor from HF. Have not tried that much yet.

If heat and visegrips won't budge it, a bolt-extractor won't either.
If (when) the hard bolt extractor breaks off in the bolt, you then
have a real problem.

My approaches would be:

1) *drill a hole in a bit of metal, place that over the screw head,
weld it quickly with TIG, MIG or stick. *That'll go so fast it won't
have time to harmfully heat up the cylinder. *Then tap on the new
"handle" until it either comes out or breaks off. *This often works,
partly because the short-duration intense heat on the bolt tends to
break corrosion and loosen it.

Don
*I have used this method many times with good success. I first tried it in
desperation on a broken aluminum water pump mounting bolt. I used to have a
collection of stuck fasteners in my toolbox that that I had won the battle
with.
Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Can I weld a nut on the head?

"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...

"David Billington" wrote: (clip) If the screw head can be ground off and
the muffler removed then
careful heating of the screw adjacent to the block may get enough heat
in there to help loosen it, (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
If you can grind the head off. that may release enough tension on the bolt
to let you turn it with vise grips.

The last resort method I have used, which generally works is:

Drill carefully into the center of the bolt. Correct centering errors by
leaning the pistol drill as necessary. Start with a small drill bit, and
then increase the size in steps. You will reach a diameter where there is
very slight contact between the drill and the ID of the threaded hole. At
this point you can probably pull it out like a spring with a pair of
needle nose, or clean it out with a tap. If your drilled hole is slightly
off center, then pulling it out like a spring won't happen, but you may be
able to pick it out or tap it out.

This does not require any heat.

As a last-ditch method, I'm with you on drilling them out. I've broken off a
few exhaust-manifold and muffler-clamp bolts with my hammer-driven impact
driver. And those bolts are usually mush after a few years of cycling in all
that heat. I've wound up drilling out a couple of them, on a Honda
motorcycle and on a Volkswagen, with the method you describe.

--
Ed Huntress

Ed Huntress wrote:
"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...

"David Billington" wrote: (clip) If the screw head can be ground off and
the muffler removed then

careful heating of the screw adjacent to the block may get enough heat
in there to help loosen it, (clip)

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
If you can grind the head off. that may release enough tension on the bolt
to let you turn it with vise grips.

The last resort method I have used, which generally works is:

Drill carefully into the center of the bolt. Correct centering errors by
leaning the pistol drill as necessary. Start with a small drill bit, and
then increase the size in steps. You will reach a diameter where there is
very slight contact between the drill and the ID of the threaded hole. At
this point you can probably pull it out like a spring with a pair of
needle nose, or clean it out with a tap. If your drilled hole is slightly
off center, then pulling it out like a spring won't happen, but you may be
able to pick it out or tap it out.

This does not require any heat.


As a last-ditch method, I'm with you on drilling them out. I've broken off a
few exhaust-manifold and muffler-clamp bolts with my hammer-driven impact
driver. And those bolts are usually mush after a few years of cycling in all
that heat. I've wound up drilling out a couple of them, on a Honda
motorcycle and on a Volkswagen, with the method you describe.

--
Ed Huntress



I've done the drilling out on various occasions and it works well
especially if the drill is kept central. I wonder in this circumstance
though, if when the tension is released on the screw, whether the screw
will come straight out as it is in a hot area it may not corrode.

One time I was helping a mate change a cam belt and we could not undo a
socket cap screw holding the tensioner in place as the socket was
damaged. No matter what we did to try and keep the drive bit in the hex
it was ejected when we applied torque. In the end we gave up for the
evening and went down the pub for some beers. The next morning I removed
the head of the cap screw with a carbide burr and that did the trick,
the remains of the screw in the block could be undone with my fingers as
it was not seized and showed no signs of corrosion.

Leo Sez:

"Drill carefully into the center of the bolt. Correct centering errors by
leaning the pistol drill as necessary. . . . . ."

Good solution, I'm sure. But the OP didn't say if he had clearance over the bolt in which to run a
drill. In that case, fall back on Don's suggestion to weld on a piece of metal for a wrench to get
hold of.

Bob Swinney


"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...

"David Billington" wrote: (clip) If the screw head can be ground off and
the muffler removed then
careful heating of the screw adjacent to the block may get enough heat in
there to help loosen it, (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
If you can grind the head off. that may release enough tension on the bolt
to let you turn it with vise grips.

The last resort method I have used, which generally works is:

Start with a small drill bit, and
then increase the size in steps. You will reach a diameter where there is
very slight contact between the drill and the ID of the threaded hole. At
this point you can probably pull it out like a spring with a pair of needle
nose, or clean it out with a tap. If your drilled hole is slightly off
center, then pulling it out like a spring won't happen, but you may be able
to pick it out or tap it out.

This does not require any heat.

Drill carefully into the center of the bolt. Correct centering errors by
leaning the pistol drill as necessary. Start with a small drill bit, and
then increase the size in steps. You will reach a diameter where there is
very slight contact between the drill and the ID of the threaded hole. At
this point you can probably pull it out like a spring with a pair of needle
nose, or clean it out with a tap. If your drilled hole is slightly off
center, then pulling it out like a spring won't happen, but you may be able
to pick it out or tap it out.

This does not require any heat.

When i do this, I use left handed drills. nearly always, the drill
catches and screws the fastener right out.

Karl

On Jan 16, 3:11*pm, stryped wrote:
Can I weld a nut on the head?

You certainly have my permission. Whether or not you actually CAN is
another issue. I would grind and brush the screw head shiny and clean
out the nut with a tap, or better drill out the threads to get a clean
metal surface.

MIG works, I use it to fill up drilled out spot welds, but try it on a
different nut and bolt first to convince yourself you can fill the
hole with solid steel instead of flux, since you can't see the puddle.
An easy-running arc rod like 7014 might work well for you too. I tried
both to weld drilled retainer plates onto the ends of pivot pins for
my bucket loader, then found TIG to be best, mostly because it
annealed the drill rod pin further and didn't leave a brittle area.

Jim Wilkins

On Jan 16, 10:22*am, stryped wrote:
What would be the best way to get it out without damaging anything.
Phillips head is buggered out. I have tried WD 40 andvice grips to no
avail.

This is on a small engine. I tried a propane torch and vice grips too
but did not work. I have aceytlene but was a little afraid I might
damage the cylinder or something?

I bought a bolt extractor from HF. Have not tried that much yet.

You are getting good advice that I can't add to.

Let us know what works.

Good luck!

TMT

"stryped" wrote in message
...
What would be the best way to get it out without damaging anything.
Phillips head is buggered out. I have tried WD 40 andvice grips to no
avail.

This is on a small engine. I tried a propane torch and vice grips too
but did not work. I have aceytlene but was a little afraid I might
damage the cylinder or something?

I bought a bolt extractor from HF. Have not tried that much yet.

Hammer impact driver. Worked well on the old Kawasaki motorcycle motor when
the case screws corroded in.

On Fri, 16 Jan 2009 12:11:31 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

On Jan 16, 11:32*am, "Up North" wrote:
"Don Foreman" wrote in message

...





On Fri, 16 Jan 2009 08:22:40 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

What would be the best way to get it out without damaging anything.
Phillips head is buggered out. I have tried WD 40 andvice grips to no
avail.

This is on a small engine. I tried a propane torch and vice grips too
but did not work. I have aceytlene but was a little afraid I might
damage the cylinder or something?

I bought a bolt extractor from HF. Have not tried that much yet.

If heat and visegrips won't budge it, a bolt-extractor won't either.
If (when) the hard bolt extractor breaks off in the bolt, you then
have a real problem.

My approaches would be:

1) *drill a hole in a bit of metal, place that over the screw head,
weld it quickly with TIG, MIG or stick. *That'll go so fast it won't
have time to harmfully heat up the cylinder. *Then tap on the new
"handle" until it either comes out or breaks off. *This often works,
partly because the short-duration intense heat on the bolt tends to
break corrosion and loosen it.

Don
*I have used this method many times with good success. I first tried it in
desperation on a broken aluminum water pump mounting bolt. I used to have a
collection of stuck fasteners in my toolbox that that I had won the battle
with.
Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Can I weld a nut on the head?

Sure, but Clare's approach might be better. I somehow overlooked that
it was a muffler screw.

stryped wrote:

What would be the best way to get it out without damaging anything.
Phillips head is buggered out. I have tried WD 40 andvice grips to no
avail.

This is on a small engine. I tried a propane torch and vice grips too
but did not work. I have aceytlene but was a little afraid I might
damage the cylinder or something?

I bought a bolt extractor from HF. Have not tried that much yet.

Can you grind the head off the screw and then remove the muffler?

Wes

On Fri, 16 Jan 2009 22:38:14 -0600, Don Foreman
wrote:

On Fri, 16 Jan 2009 12:11:31 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

On Jan 16, 11:32Â*am, "Up North" wrote:
"Don Foreman" wrote in message

...





On Fri, 16 Jan 2009 08:22:40 -0800 (PST), stryped
wrote:

What would be the best way to get it out without damaging anything.
Phillips head is buggered out. I have tried WD 40 andvice grips to no
avail.

This is on a small engine. I tried a propane torch and vice grips too
but did not work. I have aceytlene but was a little afraid I might
damage the cylinder or something?

I bought a bolt extractor from HF. Have not tried that much yet.

If heat and visegrips won't budge it, a bolt-extractor won't either.
If (when) the hard bolt extractor breaks off in the bolt, you then
have a real problem.

My approaches would be:

1) Â*drill a hole in a bit of metal, place that over the screw head,
weld it quickly with TIG, MIG or stick. Â*That'll go so fast it won't
have time to harmfully heat up the cylinder. Â*Then tap on the new
"handle" until it either comes out or breaks off. Â*This often works,
partly because the short-duration intense heat on the bolt tends to
break corrosion and loosen it.

Don
Â*I have used this method many times with good success. I first tried it in
desperation on a broken aluminum water pump mounting bolt. I used to have a
collection of stuck fasteners in my toolbox that that I had won the battle
with.
Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Can I weld a nut on the head?

Sure, but Clare's approach might be better. I somehow overlooked that
it was a muffler screw.
I've used the method MANY times in the last 40-some years and it
USUALLY works.

"David Billington"wrote:
I'd be inclined to try the impact driver first as others have mentioned.

I've still got the impact driver I bought from Kmart 25 year ago; it's
survived to tell it's tale and still gets pulled out whenever needed, little
red metal case and all.

Jon

On 2009-01-18, Jon Danniken wrote:
"David Billington"wrote:
I'd be inclined to try the impact driver first as others have mentioned.

I've still got the impact driver I bought from Kmart 25 year ago; it's
survived to tell it's tale and still gets pulled out whenever needed, little
red metal case and all.

Mine, from Sears, perhaps 35 years ago still gets used
occasionally -- but the plastic pouch is disintegrating -- no such
thing as a metal case for that one. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2009-01-18, Jon Danniken wrote:
"David Billington"wrote:
I'd be inclined to try the impact driver first as others have mentioned.

I've still got the impact driver I bought from Kmart 25 year ago; it's
survived to tell it's tale and still gets pulled out whenever needed,
little
red metal case and all.

Mine, from Sears, perhaps 35 years ago still gets used
occasionally -- but the plastic pouch is disintegrating -- no such
thing as a metal case for that one. :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

I have the same one, bought at about the same time. My plastic pouch is
still in one piece. But I'm a cheapskate who expects to die with almost
everything he bought. d8-)

--
Ed Huntress

"Ed Huntress" wrote: (clip) I'm a cheapskate who expects to die with
almost
everything he bought. d8-)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I once saw a Tee-shirt advertising an estate liquidation business with the
slogan: "They couldn't take it with them, but you can."

"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...

"Ed Huntress" wrote: (clip) I'm a cheapskate who expects to die with
almost
everything he bought. d8-)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I once saw a Tee-shirt advertising an estate liquidation business with the
slogan: "They couldn't take it with them, but you can."

Ha-ha! That reminds me of a cartoon I saw in a magazine years ago. And old
guy was driving through the pearly gates into heaven in his Cadillac
convertible, smoking a cigar and with a bevy of scantily clad young girls
hanging all over him and piled in the back seat.

One guy with wings is looking at this, turns and says to another one, "I
just always *assumed* you couldn't take it with you!"

--
Ed Huntress

At my stepfather's funeral one of his old friends brought out a half-
empty bottle of Southern Comfort they had shared, gave a nice talk
about the good companionship, and left the bottle in the casket.

jw

Jim Wilkins wrote in news:a9966ebf-5a86-489a-8930-
:

At my stepfather's funeral one of his old friends brought out a half-
empty bottle of Southern Comfort they had shared, gave a nice talk
about the good companionship, and left the bottle in the casket.

jw


That man was -definitely- a -Good Friend-! GRIN

On 19 Jan 2009 18:18:59 GMT, "RAM³" wrote:

Jim Wilkins wrote in news:a9966ebf-5a86-489a-8930-
:

At my stepfather's funeral one of his old friends brought out a half-
empty bottle of Southern Comfort they had shared, gave a nice talk
about the good companionship, and left the bottle in the casket.

jw


That man was -definitely- a -Good Friend-! GRIN


Indeed.

I placed a much beloved hunting knife in an old friends coffin that he
had admired for years. Asked me many times, that if I didnt need it
anymore, to give it to him. When he died, much of the joy went out of
hunting, didnt have anyone to hunt with anymore...so I gave it to him to
take on his heavenly hunting trip.


The widow hugged me for it and its with him today.

Several people I know, took their daily carry gun with them, all tucked
way in their usual carry place. And fully loaded.




Whenever a Liberal utters the term "Common Sense approach"....grab your
wallet, your ass, and your guns because the sombitch is about to do
something damned nasty to all three of them.

"Jim Wilkins" wrote: At my stepfather's funeral one of his old friends
brought out a half-
empty bottle of Southern Comfort they had shared, gave a nice talk
about the good companionship, and left the bottle in the casket.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Various friends pass by the casket, and a number of them put money in. The
last guy in line counts the money, takes it, and puts in a check.