Soluble oil questions
 

I opened up the sump of the cold saw today and was quite amazed by the
accumulation of sediment comprised of old coalesced water soluble oil,
with metal chips.

Drained everything and spooned the goop out as well, and made a new
mix with new oil, but I am concerned about this crap in the sump.

Specifically, will the oil solution (which looks like fat free milk)
eventually separate if the saw is not used often?

Should I replace the oil periodically? (which is dirt cheap)
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Soluble oil questions
 

"Ignoramus28420" wrote in message
...
I opened up the sump of the cold saw today and was quite amazed by the
accumulation of sediment comprised of old coalesced water soluble oil,
with metal chips.

Drained everything and spooned the goop out as well, and made a new
mix with new oil, but I am concerned about this crap in the sump.

Specifically, will the oil solution (which looks like fat free milk)
eventually separate if the saw is not used often?

Should I replace the oil periodically? (which is dirt cheap)

Well, it's cheap if you don't have to replace it often (from consumption).
Soluble oil is *at least* $20/gal, with dilution varying with
brand/application.

Separation is not an issue, I don't think, cuz even if it does, it should
mix right back up with the pump.

Bacteria is more of an issue. Two methods to use are added bacteriacides,
or fish-tank aerators. Or put the sump on a timer for periodic circulation.

Tramp oil on top may smother bacteria as well, assuming there are no
anaerobes at work.

Chances are if you can't smell it, if it dudn't taste bad g, and it
doesn't make you itch/break out, it's ok. When white soluble turns grey, I
think it's gone bad.

The amc people know about soluble oil.
Different brands are different colors -- none red, afaik. :)
Usually cream, blue, green.

--
DT



--
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Soluble oil questions
 

"Ignoramus28420" wrote in message
...
I opened up the sump of the cold saw today and was quite amazed by the
accumulation of sediment comprised of old coalesced water soluble oil,
with metal chips.
snip--

One thing you might consider is buying a sump cleaner and running it for a
few hours. You may be able to buy a quart, which is more than enough .It's
mixed with water and circulated just like coolant. It's always a good idea
to remove all traces of old coolant to avoid starting bacterial growth as
quickly as you change the coolant.

Also----try to keep tramp oil out of the sump. Keep the coolant fresh by
aeration or regular circulation and free of oil and you'll be way ahead of
the game.

Harold

Soluble oil questions
 

The sump on my CHNC was just plain awful with this when I first got it. A
complete pressure washing cleaned it up. I installed a skimmer and a cheap
aquarium pump on a timer that runs 15 minutes a day. The coolant is still
nice and clean and odor free after a year now.

Karl

Soluble oil questions
 

On 2008-10-24, DrollTroll wrote:

"Ignoramus28420" wrote in message
...
I opened up the sump of the cold saw today and was quite amazed by the
accumulation of sediment comprised of old coalesced water soluble oil,
with metal chips.

Drained everything and spooned the goop out as well, and made a new
mix with new oil, but I am concerned about this crap in the sump.

Specifically, will the oil solution (which looks like fat free milk)
eventually separate if the saw is not used often?

Should I replace the oil periodically? (which is dirt cheap)

Well, it's cheap if you don't have to replace it often (from consumption).
Soluble oil is *at least* $20/gal, with dilution varying with
brand/application.

With 20:1 dilution, and $20 per gallon, it amounts to $0.95 per gallon of
solution.

Separation is not an issue, I don't think, cuz even if it does, it should
mix right back up with the pump.

Bacteria is more of an issue. Two methods to use are added bacteriacides,
or fish-tank aerators. Or put the sump on a timer for periodic circulation.

Yea... But keep in mind DT, that this is a very small sump, not easy
to put anything in there. There is at most 1/2 gallon of liquid in
it.


Tramp oil on top may smother bacteria as well, assuming there are no
anaerobes at work.

Chances are if you can't smell it, if it dudn't taste bad g, and it
doesn't make you itch/break out, it's ok. When white soluble turns grey, I
think it's gone bad.

The amc people know about soluble oil.
Different brands are different colors -- none red, afaik. :)
Usually cream, blue, green.


I think that I will try to play it by the ear, the saw survived at
least 35 years, worked a lot, still looks and works like new, so I
will just try to open the sump once in a while.
--
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Soluble oil questions
 

"DrollTroll" wrote in message
...

"Ignoramus28420" wrote in message
...
I opened up the sump of the cold saw today and was quite amazed by the
accumulation of sediment comprised of old coalesced water soluble oil,
with metal chips.

Drained everything and spooned the goop out as well, and made a new
mix with new oil, but I am concerned about this crap in the sump.

Specifically, will the oil solution (which looks like fat free milk)
eventually separate if the saw is not used often?

Should I replace the oil periodically? (which is dirt cheap)

Well, it's cheap if you don't have to replace it often (from consumption).
Soluble oil is *at least* $20/gal, with dilution varying with
brand/application.

Separation is not an issue, I don't think, cuz even if it does, it should
mix right back up with the pump.

Bacteria is more of an issue. Two methods to use are added bacteriacides,
or fish-tank aerators. Or put the sump on a timer for periodic
circulation.

Tramp oil on top may smother bacteria as well, assuming there are no
anaerobes at work.

The smelly ones are mostly anaerobic. Aerobic bacteria don't smell as much.
I think the bacteria that cause problems in miscable ("soluble") oil are
mostly anaerobic, IIRC.


Chances are if you can't smell it, if it dudn't taste bad g, and it
doesn't make you itch/break out, it's ok. When white soluble turns grey,
I think it's gone bad.

The amc people know about soluble oil.
Different brands are different colors -- none red, afaik. :)

But pink. Cincinnati Milacron's stuff was pink. It looked like someone had
puked into a tank of Pepto Bismol.

--
Ed Huntress

Soluble oil questions
 

"Ignoramus28420" wrote in message
...
I opened up the sump of the cold saw today and was quite amazed by the
accumulation of sediment comprised of old coalesced water soluble oil,
with metal chips.

Drained everything and spooned the goop out as well, and made a new
mix with new oil, but I am concerned about this crap in the sump.

Specifically, will the oil solution (which looks like fat free milk)
eventually separate if the saw is not used often?

It's very similar to milk. Both are suspensions of miscable fats in water.


Should I replace the oil periodically? (which is dirt cheap)
--
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to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
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Soluble oil questions
 

Whatever you do, be sure to drain it, clean it throughly, and disinfect
it occasionally. This summer I had to deal with 3 CNC machine sumps that
had been neglected for a couple of years. Think hazmat squad with
biohazard suits level of problem.

Ignoramus28420 wrote:
I opened up the sump of the cold saw today and was quite amazed by the
accumulation of sediment comprised of old coalesced water soluble oil,
with metal chips.

Drained everything and spooned the goop out as well, and made a new
mix with new oil, but I am concerned about this crap in the sump.

Specifically, will the oil solution (which looks like fat free milk)
eventually separate if the saw is not used often?

Should I replace the oil periodically? (which is dirt cheap)

Soluble oil questions
 

On Fri, 24 Oct 2008 09:21:54 -0500, RoyJ
wrote:

Whatever you do, be sure to drain it, clean it throughly, and disinfect
it occasionally. This summer I had to deal with 3 CNC machine sumps that
had been neglected for a couple of years. Think hazmat squad with
biohazard suits level of problem.

This is the reason I wear a Do-rag or a ball cap when sticking my head
inside a machine..Ive had open running sores within hours of having
some of those old coolants driping in my head without covering....

Gunner


Ignoramus28420 wrote:
I opened up the sump of the cold saw today and was quite amazed by the
accumulation of sediment comprised of old coalesced water soluble oil,
with metal chips.

Drained everything and spooned the goop out as well, and made a new
mix with new oil, but I am concerned about this crap in the sump.

Specifically, will the oil solution (which looks like fat free milk)
eventually separate if the saw is not used often?

Should I replace the oil periodically? (which is dirt cheap)

Whenever a Liberal utters the term "Common Sense approach"....grab your
wallet, your ass, and your guns because the sombitch is about to do
something damned nasty to all three of them.

Soluble oil questions
 

I opened up the sump of the cold saw today and was quite amazed

Drained everything and spooned the goop out as well, and made a new
mix with new oil, but I am concerned about this crap in the sump.

Should I replace the oil periodically? (which is dirt cheap)

With 20:1 dilution, and $20 per gallon, it amounts to $0.95 per gallon of
solution.

Although it's cheap, you can make your own (which as a fellow scrounge, may
appeal to you). The recipe was in the Home Shop Machinist some time back in
the early 80s. I don't have the recipe / proportions at hand, but having
made a batch at the time, the secret was to make a concentrated detergent
solution and then slowly add the oil to it while stirring. It didn't work
if you tried to put the detergent solution into the oil.

RWL