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Default Need help, 5 HP 1 ph Baldor buzzes loudly, does not spin

On Fri, 13 Jun 2008 23:21:39 -0500, Ignoramus29659
wrote:

Some facts.

1. 5 HP Single Phase Baldor motor
2. Connected to compressor pump
3. Can be easily spun by hand, not stuck
4. Connected to 240v outlet (245 volts actual)
5. Used about 30 feet of 14 gauge cable
6. ** MOTOR BUZZES LOUDLY, DOES NOT SPIN AT ALL **
7. Incoming voltage at the switch close to motor about 216 volts
during starting/buzzing
8. I opened the cover covering capacitors.
9. Found two round/cylindrical start caps and one oval/cylindrical run cap
10. During starting, voltage on the RUN cap is 197 volts
11. During starting, voltage on the START cap is only about 15 volts

This seems to point me to direction that the contacts on centrifugal
switch may be bad.

Would love to get some quicky answer.

thanks

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Sounds like the start switch. It could also be the start winding. The
centrifugal switches sometimes can get out of adjustment. The part
affixed to the motor shaft sometimes slips because of a loose screw or
impact, etc. This can prevent the contacts from closing. A quick test
of the run windings is to wrap a rope aeound the shaft, pull it
quickly to spin the motor, and then apply power as soon as the rope
comes off of the shaft. If the run winding is good the motor will
accelerate to the rated RPM. If the centrifugal switch is bad and must
be replaced, and you can't find a replacement, you can replace it with
a momentary contact switch that you push manually and release when the
motor is up to speed.
Eric
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Default Need help, 5 HP 1 ph Baldor buzzes loudly, does not spin

Some facts.

1. 5 HP Single Phase Baldor motor
2. Connected to compressor pump
3. Can be easily spun by hand, not stuck
4. Connected to 240v outlet (245 volts actual)
5. Used about 30 feet of 14 gauge cable
6. ** MOTOR BUZZES LOUDLY, DOES NOT SPIN AT ALL **
7. Incoming voltage at the switch close to motor about 216 volts
during starting/buzzing
8. I opened the cover covering capacitors.
9. Found two round/cylindrical start caps and one oval/cylindrical run cap
10. During starting, voltage on the RUN cap is 197 volts
11. During starting, voltage on the START cap is only about 15 volts

This seems to point me to direction that the contacts on centrifugal
switch may be bad.

Would love to get some quicky answer.

thanks

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Default Need help, 5 HP 1 ph Baldor buzzes loudly, does not spin


"Ignoramus29659" wrote in message
...
Some facts.

1. 5 HP Single Phase Baldor motor
2. Connected to compressor pump
3. Can be easily spun by hand, not stuck
4. Connected to 240v outlet (245 volts actual)
5. Used about 30 feet of 14 gauge cable
6. ** MOTOR BUZZES LOUDLY, DOES NOT SPIN AT ALL **
7. Incoming voltage at the switch close to motor about 216 volts
during starting/buzzing
8. I opened the cover covering capacitors.
9. Found two round/cylindrical start caps and one oval/cylindrical run cap
10. During starting, voltage on the RUN cap is 197 volts
11. During starting, voltage on the START cap is only about 15 volts

This seems to point me to direction that the contacts on centrifugal
switch may be bad.

Would love to get some quicky answer.

thanks


first guess - it's not wired correctly - for example, windings in series, or
capacitors not in circuit etc

second guess - bad caps - test them

third guess - bad centrigugal switch - remove, test, clean it



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Default Need help, 5 HP 1 ph Baldor buzzes loudly, does not spin

On 2008-06-14, Ignoramus29659 wrote:
Some facts.

1. 5 HP Single Phase Baldor motor
2. Connected to compressor pump
3. Can be easily spun by hand, not stuck
4. Connected to 240v outlet (245 volts actual)
5. Used about 30 feet of 14 gauge cable
6. ** MOTOR BUZZES LOUDLY, DOES NOT SPIN AT ALL **
7. Incoming voltage at the switch close to motor about 216 volts
during starting/buzzing
8. I opened the cover covering capacitors.
9. Found two round/cylindrical start caps and one oval/cylindrical run cap
10. During starting, voltage on the RUN cap is 197 volts
11. During starting, voltage on the START cap is only about 15 volts

This seems to point me to direction that the contacts on centrifugal
switch may be bad.

Would love to get some quicky answer.



I continued based on assumption of centrifugal switch.

I opened the motor. It was very dirty inside. I think that it was
taken off a big grinder or something. But it did not look burnt.

Anyway, I cleaned centrifugal switch contacts with fine sandpaper.

Reclosed the motor.

After this I saw some signs of life, bits of movement but not much.

I then removed all drive belts and disconnected motor from pump.

The motor, now, spins at first slowly, then accelerates in 1-2 seconds
-- way too slow to be normal -- and then runs strong like a real
Baldor.

I also tried adding and removing starting capacitance, it did not seem
to make much difference.

I think that what I will do is

1. Take off the rear endbell again, and clean contacts some more
2. Try VERY carefully to measure resistance between them (hard to do)


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Default Need help, 5 HP 1 ph Baldor buzzes loudly, does not spin

Ignoramus29659 wrote:

I think that what I will do is

1. Take off the rear endbell again, and clean contacts some more
2. Try VERY carefully to measure resistance between them (hard to do)



Measure resistance of start cap. It should be infinity after a
few seconds on the meter. If not, it is bad. most common
failure of cap-start motors.

Jon


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Default Need help, 5 HP 1 ph Baldor buzzes loudly, does not spin


"Jon Elson" wrote in message
...
Ignoramus29659 wrote:

I think that what I will do is 1. Take off the rear endbell again, and
clean contacts some more
2. Try VERY carefully to measure resistance between them (hard to do)



Measure resistance of start cap. It should be infinity after a few
seconds on the meter. If not, it is bad. most common failure of
cap-start motors.

Jon


agree with Jon that symptoms sound like badly leaking start cap - try a
replacement


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Default Need help, 5 HP 1 ph Baldor buzzes loudly, does not spin

Ignoramus29659 wrote:

I think that what I will do is

1. Take off the rear endbell again, and clean contacts some more
2. Try VERY carefully to measure resistance between them (hard to do)



Iggy,

I am suprized that you don't have a dvm that measures capacitance. It is not an expensive
option on a dvm.

Wes
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Default Need help, 5 HP 1 ph Baldor buzzes loudly, does not spin

On 2008-06-14, Wes wrote:
Ignoramus29659 wrote:

I think that what I will do is

1. Take off the rear endbell again, and clean contacts some more
2. Try VERY carefully to measure resistance between them (hard to do)



Iggy,

I am suprized that you don't have a dvm that measures capacitance. It is not an expensive
option on a dvm.


I can measure capacitance, but one starting cap out of two is soldered
to the wires. Anyway, I think that I should unsolder it, add proper
female blade terminals and try measuring resistance and capacitance
then, or just replace them outright.

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Default PROGRESS Need help, 5 HP 1 ph Baldor buzzes loudly, does not spin

I kind of slept on it overnight and decided that my only progress was
due to sandpaper cleaning of start winding contacts. So I decided to
do more of it. I removed the endbell again and cleaned the contacts
with sandpaper a lot longer than the first time. After reassembly, the
motor starts like crazy!!! I will try to put belts back and retighten
them and see if the compressor works.

i
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Default Need help, 5 HP 1 ph Baldor buzzes loudly, does not spin

Bad starting cap.


Ignoramus29659 wrote:
On 2008-06-14, Ignoramus29659 wrote:
Some facts.

1. 5 HP Single Phase Baldor motor
2. Connected to compressor pump
3. Can be easily spun by hand, not stuck
4. Connected to 240v outlet (245 volts actual)
5. Used about 30 feet of 14 gauge cable
6. ** MOTOR BUZZES LOUDLY, DOES NOT SPIN AT ALL **
7. Incoming voltage at the switch close to motor about 216 volts
during starting/buzzing
8. I opened the cover covering capacitors.
9. Found two round/cylindrical start caps and one oval/cylindrical run cap
10. During starting, voltage on the RUN cap is 197 volts
11. During starting, voltage on the START cap is only about 15 volts

This seems to point me to direction that the contacts on centrifugal
switch may be bad.

Would love to get some quicky answer.



I continued based on assumption of centrifugal switch.

I opened the motor. It was very dirty inside. I think that it was
taken off a big grinder or something. But it did not look burnt.

Anyway, I cleaned centrifugal switch contacts with fine sandpaper.

Reclosed the motor.

After this I saw some signs of life, bits of movement but not much.

I then removed all drive belts and disconnected motor from pump.

The motor, now, spins at first slowly, then accelerates in 1-2 seconds
-- way too slow to be normal -- and then runs strong like a real
Baldor.

I also tried adding and removing starting capacitance, it did not seem
to make much difference.

I think that what I will do is

1. Take off the rear endbell again, and clean contacts some more
2. Try VERY carefully to measure resistance between them (hard to do)




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Default Need help, 5 HP 1 ph Baldor buzzes loudly, does not spin

Jon Elson wrote:
Ignoramus29659 wrote:

I think that what I will do is
1. Take off the rear endbell again, and clean contacts some more
2. Try VERY carefully to measure resistance between them (hard to do)



Measure resistance of start cap. It should be infinity after a few
seconds on the meter. If not, it is bad. most common failure of
cap-start motors.

Jon



Capacitor is almost certainly the problem as evidenced by Iggy's own statement, "I also
tried adding and removing starting capacitance, it did not seem to make much difference."
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Default PROGRESS Need help, 5 HP 1 ph Baldor buzzes loudly, does not spin

On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 07:32:49 -0500, Ignoramus20633
wrote:

I kind of slept on it overnight and decided that my only progress was
due to sandpaper cleaning of start winding contacts. So I decided to
do more of it. I removed the endbell again and cleaned the contacts
with sandpaper a lot longer than the first time. After reassembly, the
motor starts like crazy!!! I will try to put belts back and retighten
them and see if the compressor works.

i



I like to sleep on it as well, and often have the anser the next
morning.

by then however..she has forgotten the question....G


You done good!

particularly for the motor price of the motor alone.


I think...think I have another champion pump in my stuff


Gunner

at yoyodyne they were all veterans of the psychic wars
exiled from the eighth dimension where the winds of limbo roar"
* * * * * * *mariposa rand mair theal
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Default PROGRESS Need help, 5 HP 1 ph Baldor buzzes loudly, does not spin

On 2008-06-14, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 07:32:49 -0500, Ignoramus20633
wrote:

I kind of slept on it overnight and decided that my only progress was
due to sandpaper cleaning of start winding contacts. So I decided to
do more of it. I removed the endbell again and cleaned the contacts
with sandpaper a lot longer than the first time. After reassembly, the
motor starts like crazy!!! I will try to put belts back and retighten
them and see if the compressor works.

i



I like to sleep on it as well, and often have the anser the next
morning.

by then however..she has forgotten the question....G


You done good!

particularly for the motor price of the motor alone.


I think...think I have another champion pump in my stuff


This compressor, clearly, is someone's "work in progress" that was
never finished.

I now think that possibly the motor is underpowered for the pump. I
have a 5 HP 184T 3 phase motor, which I may try on the compressor just
to see if it is able to run the pump. If yes, then there is something
wrong with the Baldor, if no, then Baldor is fine and this compressor
needs a bigger motor.

I will check with my friend who has a 10 HP 3 phase motor, to see if
we can have a beneficial transaction.

The rotor play issue, still, is not going away. The rear bearing is in
beautiful shape and is like new. The front bearing is ****.

The reason for it, I think, is that whoever worked on this, replaced
the rear bearing but could not replace the front bearing because the
pulley was stuck. Lacking proper tools, I spent 1.5 hours today
removing it, it was very painfully frozen on the shaft.

I think that I will try to make a pulley remover tool by myself.

So I think that I have a shot at replacing bearings, I have done
exactly the same thing on a super similar Baldor.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Repl...lectric-Motor/

I unloaded this compressor and put it on casters, so I can move it
around.
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Default PROGRESS Need help, 5 HP 1 ph Baldor buzzes loudly, does not spin

On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 18:54:03 -0500, Ignoramus20633
wrote:

I now think that possibly the motor is underpowered for the pump. I
have a 5 HP 184T 3 phase motor, which I may try on the compressor just
to see if it is able to run the pump. If yes, then there is something
wrong with the Baldor, if no, then Baldor is fine and this compressor
needs a bigger motor.


Don't think bigger motor, think smaller drive sheave - if the motor
was swapped they might have just grabbed whatever pulley was handy and
fit, or swapped the pulley off a 7-1/2 HP motor. The compressor head
may run at 5 HP fine - but slower.

The pump heads have various HP requirements depending on how fast
you spin them, which is a factor of the drive and driven pulleys.
Smaller drive pulley or larger pump pulley = slower pump speed = less
HP draw but also less CFM.

If it is a single belt, get an adjustable motor sheave and attach a
clamp ammeter to the power line, and you can dial in the max nameplate
amps as the compressor approaches the pressure switch cut-off setting.
Twin belts you just have to swap sheaves to get close but not over.

-- Bruce --

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Default PROGRESS Need help, 5 HP 1 ph Baldor buzzes loudly, does not spin

On 2008-06-15, Bruce L Bergman wrote:
On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 18:54:03 -0500, Ignoramus20633
wrote:

I now think that possibly the motor is underpowered for the pump. I
have a 5 HP 184T 3 phase motor, which I may try on the compressor just
to see if it is able to run the pump. If yes, then there is something
wrong with the Baldor, if no, then Baldor is fine and this compressor
needs a bigger motor.


Don't think bigger motor, think smaller drive sheave - if the motor
was swapped they might have just grabbed whatever pulley was handy and
fit, or swapped the pulley off a 7-1/2 HP motor. The compressor head
may run at 5 HP fine - but slower.

The pump heads have various HP requirements depending on how fast
you spin them, which is a factor of the drive and driven pulleys.
Smaller drive pulley or larger pump pulley = slower pump speed = less
HP draw but also less CFM.

If it is a single belt, get an adjustable motor sheave and attach a
clamp ammeter to the power line, and you can dial in the max nameplate
amps as the compressor approaches the pressure switch cut-off setting.
Twin belts you just have to swap sheaves to get close but not over.



This is a four belt pulley and the motor pulley seems quite small
already...

see second picture here

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Champion-Compressor/

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Default PROGRESS Need help, 5 HP 1 ph Baldor buzzes loudly, does not spin

On Sun, 15 Jun 2008 00:33:53 -0500, Ignoramus20633
wrote:

On 2008-06-15, Bruce L Bergman wrote:
On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 18:54:03 -0500, Ignoramus20633
wrote:

I now think that possibly the motor is underpowered for the pump. I
have a 5 HP 184T 3 phase motor, which I may try on the compressor just
to see if it is able to run the pump. If yes, then there is something
wrong with the Baldor, if no, then Baldor is fine and this compressor
needs a bigger motor.


Don't think bigger motor, think smaller drive sheave - if the motor
was swapped they might have just grabbed whatever pulley was handy and
fit, or swapped the pulley off a 7-1/2 HP motor. The compressor head
may run at 5 HP fine - but slower.

The pump heads have various HP requirements depending on how fast
you spin them, which is a factor of the drive and driven pulleys.
Smaller drive pulley or larger pump pulley = slower pump speed = less
HP draw but also less CFM.

If it is a single belt, get an adjustable motor sheave and attach a
clamp ammeter to the power line, and you can dial in the max nameplate
amps as the compressor approaches the pressure switch cut-off setting.
Twin belts you just have to swap sheaves to get close but not over.



This is a four belt pulley and the motor pulley seems quite small
already...

see second picture here

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Champion-Compressor/



Ah..no..thats a pretty good sized pully, particularly for that
motor/pump combination.

Id drop it at least 1" in diameter.

Ive a deVillbis about the same size, with a 230 3ph 5hp motor on it,
with a pully that size..and it starts a bit slow if the unloader
doesnt **** right off the bad.


Gunner

at yoyodyne they were all veterans of the psychic wars
exiled from the eighth dimension where the winds of limbo roar"
* * * * * * *mariposa rand mair theal
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Default PROGRESS Need help, 5 HP 1 ph Baldor buzzes loudly, does not spin

On 2008-06-15, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 15 Jun 2008 00:33:53 -0500, Ignoramus20633
wrote:

On 2008-06-15, Bruce L Bergman wrote:
On Sat, 14 Jun 2008 18:54:03 -0500, Ignoramus20633
wrote:

I now think that possibly the motor is underpowered for the pump. I
have a 5 HP 184T 3 phase motor, which I may try on the compressor just
to see if it is able to run the pump. If yes, then there is something
wrong with the Baldor, if no, then Baldor is fine and this compressor
needs a bigger motor.

Don't think bigger motor, think smaller drive sheave - if the motor
was swapped they might have just grabbed whatever pulley was handy and
fit, or swapped the pulley off a 7-1/2 HP motor. The compressor head
may run at 5 HP fine - but slower.

The pump heads have various HP requirements depending on how fast
you spin them, which is a factor of the drive and driven pulleys.
Smaller drive pulley or larger pump pulley = slower pump speed = less
HP draw but also less CFM.

If it is a single belt, get an adjustable motor sheave and attach a
clamp ammeter to the power line, and you can dial in the max nameplate
amps as the compressor approaches the pressure switch cut-off setting.
Twin belts you just have to swap sheaves to get close but not over.



This is a four belt pulley and the motor pulley seems quite small
already...

see second picture here

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Champion-Compressor/



Ah..no..thats a pretty good sized pully, particularly for that
motor/pump combination.

Id drop it at least 1" in diameter.

Ive a deVillbis about the same size, with a 230 3ph 5hp motor on it,
with a pully that size..and it starts a bit slow if the unloader
doesnt **** right off the bad.


Dropping the pulley size is kind of the easiest solution, I gotta
agree, a few dozen bucks and I would be done.

By the way, I left this compressor pressurized to 22.5 PSI over night
and the pressure in the tank did not drop even by a fraction of
PSI. Which I consider to be good news. This means the tank does not
leak.

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to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
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Default PROGRESS Need help, 5 HP 1 ph Baldor buzzes loudly, does not spin

On Sun, 15 Jun 2008 09:17:11 -0500, Ignoramus25555
wrote:
On 2008-06-15, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 15 Jun 2008 00:33:53 -0500, Ignoramus20633
wrote:


This is a four belt pulley and the motor pulley seems quite small
already...

see second picture here

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Champion-Compressor/


Ah..no..thats a pretty good sized pully, particularly for that
motor/pump combination.

Id drop it at least 1" in diameter.

Ive a deVillbis about the same size, with a 230 3ph 5hp motor on it,
with a pully that size..and it starts a bit slow if the unloader
doesnt **** right off the bad.


Dropping the pulley size is kind of the easiest solution, I gotta
agree, a few dozen bucks and I would be done.


Start it and run it up all the way to cutoff while watching the
motor amps. Except for the start surge, it should stay below or at
the motor nameplate amps.

If it's way over and the motor is grunting, try loosening the motor
mounts and the belts till they slip a little and the amps drop down to
nameplate, and see how it works then.

You can NOT leave the belts loose like that, but it's a good way to
tell the motor sheave is way too big. Then you get the Champion
charts for that pump head, and it will tell you the required Pump RPM
for 5 HP worth of work, and the motor sheave diameter you need to
reach it. Easy Peasy.

Looks like it has a centrifugal unloader system, the gadget on the
end of the crankshaft, and the tubing to the check valves. Make sure
that is releasing properly - if there's any head pressure at all until
the motor reaches full speed, you won't get it started.

By the way, I left this compressor pressurized to 22.5 PSI over night
and the pressure in the tank did not drop even by a fraction of
PSI. Which I consider to be good news. This means the tank does not
leak.


Still a good idea to depressurize it and take a look inside the NPT
inspection port plugs on the end shells with a flashlight. And probe
the bottom of the tank from the inside through the hole with a long
piece of 1/4" rod stock. If you feel big rust pits...

-- Bruce --

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Default PROGRESS Need help, 5 HP 1 ph Baldor buzzes loudly, does not spin

On 2008-06-16, Bruce L Bergman wrote:
On Sun, 15 Jun 2008 09:17:11 -0500, Ignoramus25555
wrote:
On 2008-06-15, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 15 Jun 2008 00:33:53 -0500, Ignoramus20633
wrote:


This is a four belt pulley and the motor pulley seems quite small
already...

see second picture here

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Champion-Compressor/

Ah..no..thats a pretty good sized pully, particularly for that
motor/pump combination.

Id drop it at least 1" in diameter.

Ive a deVillbis about the same size, with a 230 3ph 5hp motor on it,
with a pully that size..and it starts a bit slow if the unloader
doesnt **** right off the bad.


Dropping the pulley size is kind of the easiest solution, I gotta
agree, a few dozen bucks and I would be done.


Start it and run it up all the way to cutoff while watching the
motor amps. Except for the start surge, it should stay below or at
the motor nameplate amps.

If it's way over and the motor is grunting, try loosening the motor
mounts and the belts till they slip a little and the amps drop down to
nameplate, and see how it works then.

You can NOT leave the belts loose like that, but it's a good way to
tell the motor sheave is way too big. Then you get the Champion
charts for that pump head, and it will tell you the required Pump RPM
for 5 HP worth of work, and the motor sheave diameter you need to
reach it. Easy Peasy.

Looks like it has a centrifugal unloader system, the gadget on the
end of the crankshaft, and the tubing to the check valves. Make sure
that is releasing properly - if there's any head pressure at all until
the motor reaches full speed, you won't get it started.

By the way, I left this compressor pressurized to 22.5 PSI over night
and the pressure in the tank did not drop even by a fraction of
PSI. Which I consider to be good news. This means the tank does not
leak.


Still a good idea to depressurize it and take a look inside the NPT
inspection port plugs on the end shells with a flashlight. And probe
the bottom of the tank from the inside through the hole with a long
piece of 1/4" rod stock. If you feel big rust pits...


I will talk to whatever is left of Champion today, will let you know.
If I can get the inspection port to open, with the wrenches that I
have, I will look in there.

The main plan for now is to replace this 6" pulley with a 4.55"
pulley from McMaster-Carr.

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Default PROGRESS Need help, 5 HP 1 ph Baldor buzzes loudly, does not spin

On Mon, 16 Jun 2008 07:00:57 -0500, Ignoramus21958
wrote:

On 2008-06-16, Bruce L Bergman wrote:
On Sun, 15 Jun 2008 09:17:11 -0500, Ignoramus25555
wrote:
On 2008-06-15, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sun, 15 Jun 2008 00:33:53 -0500, Ignoramus20633
wrote:


This is a four belt pulley and the motor pulley seems quite small
already...

see second picture here

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Champion-Compressor/

Ah..no..thats a pretty good sized pully, particularly for that
motor/pump combination.

Id drop it at least 1" in diameter.

Ive a deVillbis about the same size, with a 230 3ph 5hp motor on it,
with a pully that size..and it starts a bit slow if the unloader
doesnt **** right off the bad.

Dropping the pulley size is kind of the easiest solution, I gotta
agree, a few dozen bucks and I would be done.


Start it and run it up all the way to cutoff while watching the
motor amps. Except for the start surge, it should stay below or at
the motor nameplate amps.

If it's way over and the motor is grunting, try loosening the motor
mounts and the belts till they slip a little and the amps drop down to
nameplate, and see how it works then.

You can NOT leave the belts loose like that, but it's a good way to
tell the motor sheave is way too big. Then you get the Champion
charts for that pump head, and it will tell you the required Pump RPM
for 5 HP worth of work, and the motor sheave diameter you need to
reach it. Easy Peasy.

Looks like it has a centrifugal unloader system, the gadget on the
end of the crankshaft, and the tubing to the check valves. Make sure
that is releasing properly - if there's any head pressure at all until
the motor reaches full speed, you won't get it started.

By the way, I left this compressor pressurized to 22.5 PSI over night
and the pressure in the tank did not drop even by a fraction of
PSI. Which I consider to be good news. This means the tank does not
leak.


Still a good idea to depressurize it and take a look inside the NPT
inspection port plugs on the end shells with a flashlight. And probe
the bottom of the tank from the inside through the hole with a long
piece of 1/4" rod stock. If you feel big rust pits...


I will talk to whatever is left of Champion today, will let you know.
If I can get the inspection port to open, with the wrenches that I
have, I will look in there.


be aware that the last compressor tank i inspected, took a 36" pipe
wrench and a 6' snipe on the end of it, with my fat ass bouncing out
on the end of it to get that 2" pipe plug to start moving. I had to
replace the plug as it chewed up the wrench flats pretty good.

The main plan for now is to replace this 6" pulley with a 4.55"
pulley from McMaster-Carr.


at yoyodyne they were all veterans of the psychic wars
exiled from the eighth dimension where the winds of limbo roar"
* * * * * * *mariposa rand mair theal


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