I need a single canoe trailer. I want to get the canoe out more, and
it's too much hassle to get it on top of my old 4wd suburban. There
are galvanized steel trailers with spring axles, then aluminum ones
with the rubber torsion axles. This is single duty, one 65 lb. canoe
with some stuff tied in.

I'm inclined to go with the aluminum version because it's lighter and
cheaper. Does anyone have experience with those rubber torsion axles?

Pete Keillor

On Sat, 24 May 2008 14:19:55 -0400, Pete Keillor
wrote:

I need a single canoe trailer. I want to get the canoe out more, and
it's too much hassle to get it on top of my old 4wd suburban. There
are galvanized steel trailers with spring axles, then aluminum ones
with the rubber torsion axles. This is single duty, one 65 lb. canoe
with some stuff tied in.

I'm inclined to go with the aluminum version because it's lighter and
cheaper. Does anyone have experience with those rubber torsion axles?

Pete Keillor

Yes, but not on a boat trailer. There's hardly anything to go
wrong, but figure in 25 years you might have to replace the boxes when
the rubber finally rots out. (But by then the whole trailer will be
trashable.) 12-inch rims are better if you have the option, lower
rolling RPM at 65 MPH is easier on bearings.

I'd go galvanized steel, the zinc should protect it for many years.
Aluminum has fatigue failure issues that steel doesn't, and corrodes
too. And when it starts to go it progresses a lot faster.

Make sure you get Bearing Buddy hubs and sealed lights. LED lights
are more money, but will take the bouncing and submersion a lot
better. And carry a spare tire and a lug wrench that fits. The car
jack will lift it, but the car spare won't fit under the fenders.

-- Bruce --

On Sat, 24 May 2008 14:19:55 -0400, Pete Keillor wrote:

I need a single canoe trailer. I want to get the canoe out more, and
it's too much hassle to get it on top of my old 4wd suburban. There are
galvanized steel trailers with spring axles, then aluminum ones with the
rubber torsion axles. This is single duty, one 65 lb. canoe with some
stuff tied in.

I've seen a no-hassle van-top canoe loader frame that slides back
and down to let you load from the rear at close to ground level,
not from the side like the Thule Kayak Hullavator, and not just
rollers like the Yakima Hully Rollers (both at
http://www.oakorchardcanoe.com/rackaccessories.php )
but don't know if it was home-made or commercial.

-jiw

Pete Keillor wrote:

I'm inclined to go with the aluminum version because it's lighter and
cheaper. Does anyone have experience with those rubber torsion axles?

Got a link to the aluminum version? I'd love to go worm dunking again in a
canoe using my econo car to get it there.

Wes

"Pete Keillor" wrote in message
...
I'm inclined to go with the aluminum version because it's lighter and
cheaper. Does anyone have experience with those rubber torsion axles?

Obviously you are thinking of buying something, but for such a light load I
find myself picturing something light, homemade, and easy to stow by hand.
Perhaps a design using junkyard motorcycle wheels and shocks?

Vaughn

On Sat, 24 May 2008 14:19:55 -0400, Pete Keillor
wrote:

I need a single canoe trailer. I want to get the canoe out more, and
it's too much hassle to get it on top of my old 4wd suburban. There
are galvanized steel trailers with spring axles, then aluminum ones
with the rubber torsion axles. This is single duty, one 65 lb. canoe
with some stuff tied in.

I'm inclined to go with the aluminum version because it's lighter and
cheaper. Does anyone have experience with those rubber torsion axles?

Pete Keillor

They have stood up well over the years on light camping trailers. I've
found them less trouble than poorly built leaf spring trailers.
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

On Sat, 24 May 2008 14:26:31 -0700, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:

On Sat, 24 May 2008 14:19:55 -0400, Pete Keillor
wrote:

I need a single canoe trailer. I want to get the canoe out more, and
it's too much hassle to get it on top of my old 4wd suburban. There
are galvanized steel trailers with spring axles, then aluminum ones
with the rubber torsion axles. This is single duty, one 65 lb. canoe
with some stuff tied in.

I'm inclined to go with the aluminum version because it's lighter and
cheaper. Does anyone have experience with those rubber torsion axles?

Pete Keillor

Yes, but not on a boat trailer. There's hardly anything to go
wrong, but figure in 25 years you might have to replace the boxes when
the rubber finally rots out. (But by then the whole trailer will be
trashable.) 12-inch rims are better if you have the option, lower
rolling RPM at 65 MPH is easier on bearings.

I'd go galvanized steel, the zinc should protect it for many years.
Aluminum has fatigue failure issues that steel doesn't, and corrodes
too. And when it starts to go it progresses a lot faster.

Make sure you get Bearing Buddy hubs and sealed lights. LED lights
are more money, but will take the bouncing and submersion a lot
better. And carry a spare tire and a lug wrench that fits. The car
jack will lift it, but the car spare won't fit under the fenders.

-- Bruce --

A canoe trailer isn't a boat trailer,(it shouldnever be submerged) and
if the Aluminum trailer is designed for 500 lb or more, a 65 lb canoe
and some gear is not going to fatique the aluminum
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

"Pete Keillor" wrote in message
...
I need a single canoe trailer. I want to get the canoe out more, and
it's too much hassle to get it on top of my old 4wd suburban. There
are galvanized steel trailers with spring axles, then aluminum ones
with the rubber torsion axles. This is single duty, one 65 lb. canoe
with some stuff tied in.

I'm inclined to go with the aluminum version because it's lighter and
cheaper. Does anyone have experience with those rubber torsion axles?

Pete Keillor

I have the same situation, in fact today I had my Adirondack Guideboat (a
canoe like boat that you row) on and off the Suburban twice. Right now mine
is a PITA because I've got a few bike racks on top I have to get the boat
over. I decided to order the Thule canoe clamps (579xt), 450 Rack adapter
feet and 58" load bars. That should raise the boat high enough so that it
doesn't contact the roof, which I am handling now with those foam blocks. On
the front and back I use the bow/stern tie downs, which hook on pretty quick
and tension quickly.

One caveat on trailers, probably not that much of a factor for a sturdy
canoe: the author of Open Water Rowing points out that lightweight trailers
give a pretty bumpy ride compared to a vehicle's suspension, which could
stress some lightweight craft.

Pete Keillor wrote:

I need a single canoe trailer. I want to get the canoe out more, and
it's too much hassle to get it on top of my old 4wd suburban. There
are galvanized steel trailers with spring axles, then aluminum ones
with the rubber torsion axles. This is single duty, one 65 lb. canoe
with some stuff tied in.

I'm inclined to go with the aluminum version because it's lighter and
cheaper. Does anyone have experience with those rubber torsion axles?

Pete Keillor
Our camper is a small fibreglass "box" with that suspension. It's been
on the road for 13 years, gone through a couple of tires but otherwise
no problems. Total empty weight about 800 lbs. Been over a lot of
dirt, gravel, and some "trails" that don't even qualify as roads here
in New Mexico, as well as several trip across the country.
Aprox 50,000 mi.
...lew...

On Sun, 25 May 2008 09:31:33 -0600, Lew Hartswick
wrote:

Pete Keillor wrote:

I need a single canoe trailer. I want to get the canoe out more, and
it's too much hassle to get it on top of my old 4wd suburban. There
are galvanized steel trailers with spring axles, then aluminum ones
with the rubber torsion axles. This is single duty, one 65 lb. canoe
with some stuff tied in.

I'm inclined to go with the aluminum version because it's lighter and
cheaper. Does anyone have experience with those rubber torsion axles?

Pete Keillor
Our camper is a small fibreglass "box" with that suspension. It's been
on the road for 13 years, gone through a couple of tires but otherwise
no problems. Total empty weight about 800 lbs. Been over a lot of
dirt, gravel, and some "trails" that don't even qualify as roads here
in New Mexico, as well as several trip across the country.
Aprox 50,000 mi.
...lew...

Thanks to everybody for their input. I did find a trailer that can be
hot dipped, with 12" tires and the rubber torsion suspension as
options. I looked more closely at the aluminum model, and I don't
like the bolted assembly (tee bolts in slots in the extruded cross
section). Steel fastening hardware on aluminum seems like a problem
waiting to happen down the road. This thing will start its life
stored in a garage, so corrosion is probably not an issue now, but
when I retire, I expect to move back to the gulf coast of Texas, where
it certainly will be. Thanks again.

Pete Keillor

Lew Hartswick wrote:

Our camper is a small fibreglass "box" with that suspension. It's been
on the road for 13 years, gone through a couple of tires but otherwise
no problems. Total empty weight about 800 lbs. Been over a lot of
dirt, gravel, and some "trails" that don't even qualify as roads here
in New Mexico, as well as several trip across the country.
Aprox 50,000 mi.

Who makes that? My saturn sl1 is good for 1500 lbs, right, 800 wouldn't
scare me.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

On Sun, 25 May 2008 21:24:40 -0400, Wes wrote:

Lew Hartswick wrote:

Our camper is a small fibreglass "box" with that suspension. It's been
on the road for 13 years, gone through a couple of tires but otherwise
no problems. Total empty weight about 800 lbs. Been over a lot of
dirt, gravel, and some "trails" that don't even qualify as roads here
in New Mexico, as well as several trip across the country.
Aprox 50,000 mi.

Who makes that? My saturn sl1 is good for 1500 lbs, right, 800 wouldn't
scare me.

Wes
The Trillium and Boler are the classics of the genre - Bigfoot is
another of (i suspect) many available in the USA and Canada.
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

Wes wrote:

Lew Hartswick wrote:


Our camper is a small fibreglass "box" with that suspension. It's been
on the road for 13 years, gone through a couple of tires but otherwise
no problems. Total empty weight about 800 lbs. Been over a lot of
dirt, gravel, and some "trails" that don't even qualify as roads here
in New Mexico, as well as several trip across the country.
Aprox 50,000 mi.


Who makes that? My saturn sl1 is good for 1500 lbs, right, 800 wouldn't
scare me.

Wes

Well it's no longer made Unfortunately. It was made across the river
in Rio Rancho ( I'm in Albuquerque). I pulled it a lot with a
Saturn SW1 and the cross country was with a Plymouth van.
Too bad he went under, some promised finacing didn't come through.
...lew...

On May 25, 1:10*pm, Pete Keillor wrote:
I need a single canoe trailer. *I want to get the canoe out more, and
it's too much hassle to get it on top of my old 4wd suburban. *There
are galvanized steel trailers with spring axles, then aluminum ones
with the rubber torsion axles. *This is single duty, one 65 lb. canoe
with some stuff tied in.
Pete Keillor

Thanks to everybody for their input. *I did find a trailer that can be
hot dipped, with 12" tires and the rubber torsion suspension as
options. *I looked more closely at the aluminum model, and I don't
like the bolted assembly (tee bolts in slots in the extruded cross
section). *Steel fastening hardware on aluminum seems like a problem
waiting to happen down the road. *This thing will start its life
stored in a garage, so corrosion is probably not an issue now, but
when I retire, I expect to move back to the gulf coast of Texas, where
it certainly will be. *Thanks again.

Pete Keillor

How about a light general-purpose trailer that stores easily indoors?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90154