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Default Treadmill motor wiring diagram, anyone???

Hi,

The motor on my HF 4 x 36 belt sander went belly up after only about 6
or 8 years. Sheesh. I contacted HF for a new one and it is going to be
40-bucks plus shipping and 12 to 15 week wait. sigh

I was scrounging around under the benches and found one of the
Treadmill motors and controllers that Surplus Center used to sell.

Problem is I have a bunch of wires hanging out of the motor and no
idea who goes where.

I checked the dropbox and there is a schematic for the controller but
nothing for the wires to the motor.

Can anyone please help me with how to wire this up.

Thanks guys.

Dave
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Default Treadmill motor wiring diagram, anyone???

"bunch of wires"??? how many? does the motor have brushes? does it have a
magnet?

harbor freight motor went "belly up" - symptoms? usually it's a capacitor
or dust making the start switch inop - did you check these things? it is
much easier to fix than replace


"Dave, I can't do that" wrote in message
...
Hi,

The motor on my HF 4 x 36 belt sander went belly up after only about 6
or 8 years. Sheesh. I contacted HF for a new one and it is going to be
40-bucks plus shipping and 12 to 15 week wait. sigh

I was scrounging around under the benches and found one of the
Treadmill motors and controllers that Surplus Center used to sell.

Problem is I have a bunch of wires hanging out of the motor and no
idea who goes where.

I checked the dropbox and there is a schematic for the controller but
nothing for the wires to the motor.

Can anyone please help me with how to wire this up.

Thanks guys.

Dave



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Default Treadmill motor wiring diagram, anyone???

Most treadmill motors are DC and have 4 wires.
The 2 blue ones are the over temp breaker.
The other 2 are connected to the brushes.
Usually the connections are in series to prevent burning out the motor.
Art

"Dave, I can't do that" wrote in message
...
Hi,

The motor on my HF 4 x 36 belt sander went belly up after only about 6
or 8 years. Sheesh. I contacted HF for a new one and it is going to be
40-bucks plus shipping and 12 to 15 week wait. sigh

I was scrounging around under the benches and found one of the
Treadmill motors and controllers that Surplus Center used to sell.

Problem is I have a bunch of wires hanging out of the motor and no
idea who goes where.

I checked the dropbox and there is a schematic for the controller but
nothing for the wires to the motor.

Can anyone please help me with how to wire this up.

Thanks guys.

Dave



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Default Treadmill motor wiring diagram, anyone???

I couldn't find the schematic in the dropbox.
What is the filename?
Art

"Dave, I can't do that" wrote in message
...
Hi,

The motor on my HF 4 x 36 belt sander went belly up after only about 6
or 8 years. Sheesh. I contacted HF for a new one and it is going to be
40-bucks plus shipping and 12 to 15 week wait. sigh

I was scrounging around under the benches and found one of the
Treadmill motors and controllers that Surplus Center used to sell.

Problem is I have a bunch of wires hanging out of the motor and no
idea who goes where.

I checked the dropbox and there is a schematic for the controller but
nothing for the wires to the motor.

Can anyone please help me with how to wire this up.

Thanks guys.

Dave



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Default Treadmill motor wiring diagram, anyone???

First, you should determine what type of motor was used on the belt sander
(AC or DC), and any other info that you can find out about the motor,
especially if it was an AC induction motor.

You should determine what type of treadmill motor you have. The ones I got
from SC were 90 volt permanent magnet DC motors with a left-hand thread on
the end of the shaft (close to 1/2-13? LH thread).

You wouldn't want to try to connect a DC motor where there was an AC motor.
If the original motor wasn't a DC motor of the same voltage and speed, a DC
treadmill motor will require a DC drive, to drive and control the DC motor.

I don't have a HF belt sander, but I would expect the motor to be a low
quality Chinese AC motor (one of four types of AC motor.. ordinary AC
induction motor, a universal/brush-type motor, a split-phase AC motor, or
permanent split capacitor AC motor).

If the original motor is one of the AC motors that I just mentioned, a DC
motor is not much good to you without a DC drive.

WB
..........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html


"Dave, I can't do that" wrote in message
...
Hi,

The motor on my HF 4 x 36 belt sander went belly up after only about 6
or 8 years. Sheesh. I contacted HF for a new one and it is going to be
40-bucks plus shipping and 12 to 15 week wait. sigh

I was scrounging around under the benches and found one of the
Treadmill motors and controllers that Surplus Center used to sell.

Problem is I have a bunch of wires hanging out of the motor and no
idea who goes where.

I checked the dropbox and there is a schematic for the controller but
nothing for the wires to the motor.

Can anyone please help me with how to wire this up.

Thanks guys.

Dave




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Default Treadmill motor wiring diagram, anyone???

Hi William,

Yup, I checked and it is not actually the motor. Being an older one it
did not have a start-cap but a delay relay in conjunction with the
switch. It is the switch and relay that have burned up. The motor still
runs but in any direction it feels like it. Not good for a sander. grin

HF don't have the switch and relay either as they have no manual and I
have no manual and thus no part number for it.

I can't just add a cap to the motor as there is no centrifugal switch.

OK, the wires are not quit th bunch I thought. After cutting some cable
ties it turns out I have...

Black and Yellow going to the field windings.
Blue and Brown going to the tach windings
Each of the brushes have spade terminals on them and no wires as yet.

Dave
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Default Treadmill motor wiring diagram, anyone???

Hi Art,

It is in the 1998 retired folder. There are some other formats too.

http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/...s/treadmot.pdf

You might like to check my reply to William which includes...

Black and Yellow going to the field windings.
Blue and Brown going to the tach windings
Each of the brushes have spade terminals on them and no wires as yet.

Dave
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Default Treadmill motor wiring diagram, anyone???

Hi Bill,

Thanks for the reply.

The original motor was AC with a delay relay instead of start cap.
Therefore I cannot simply use a start cap as there is no centrifugal
switch in the motor. The AC motor runs fine, but I have to hand start it
to give it direction.

I'd also challenge the "cheap" statement as this thing has done 1000s of
hours work and had the switch-relay not fried I am sure it would do many
more 1000s as the motor runs smooth, cool and quiet.

The Treadmill motor that SC had gazillions of came with it's own
controller. I assumed people that were familiar with the treadmill motor
from SC would know what I am talking about. Sorry, I should have been
more specific.

The schematic in the drop box that I mentioned is for the GE controller.
I have both the GE controller and the GE DC treadmill motor. This motor
has a 5/8" shaft about 1-1/2" long and keyed 3/16" I think. It us rated
at 2hp, but given it's size and max current draw, I am guessing closer
to 3/4hp.

It is not a permanent magnet DC motor as it has windings.

Perhaps see my reply posts to William and Art as well.

Dave


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Default Treadmill motor wiring diagram, anyone???

Motor quality varies a lot when the country of origin is China. Maybe your
motor was from Taiwan.
Cheap/low quality motors is what China makes for import to the U.S. Their
motors don't need to meet any agency approval levels for safety or quality
like most other motors manufactured globally. The same goes for their other
electrical components.
Generally, the motors have no thermal protection, and the wiring is not
likely to be marked for any temperature rating.

You definitely got your money's worth out of those electrical parts, but the
other gotcha about stuff from China is, that's it's very unlikely that
repair parts will be available. I believe that most of the import
distributors just disassemble whole machines to use for repair parts, to try
to keep their customers happy.
The trouble is, when a design change takes place, an omitted part becomes
unobtainable (no 800 numbers to call in China, I guess).

Quite a few of the more recent motors from China have failed within weeks or
a couple of months from the time of purchase.

I generally keep a few spare quality motors around that I've found at garage
sales or flea markets for $5 to $10. After disassembling them for cleaning
and inspection, I'll test them and put them on a shelf for future use.

You could probably retrofit another AC motor onto your sander if there is
sufficient space. A fractional HP motor made by Dayton, Leeson, Century or
another domestic manufacturer would probably meet your requirements, if you
know what speed the original motor was.

General machine replacement motors won't require the delay relay that the
original motor needed.

For sanders, grinders and other metalworking machines it's always a good
idea to use a sealed motor that will keep the (electrically conductive) dust
and chips out.
Totally enclosed fan cooled (TEFC) motors are ideal.

There are solid-state replacement motor starting devices, for about $40 for
small motors, IIRC, but I don't remember the name of the manufacturer that I
was looking at about a year ago.

I remember seeing some open-frame treadmill motors from Surplus Center, used
to drive small lathes and drill presses. Those might be the type you have.

WB
..........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html


"Dave" wrote in message
...
Hi Bill,

Thanks for the reply.

The original motor was AC with a delay relay instead of start cap.
Therefore I cannot simply use a start cap as there is no centrifugal
switch in the motor. The AC motor runs fine, but I have to hand start it
to give it direction.

I'd also challenge the "cheap" statement as this thing has done 1000s of
hours work and had the switch-relay not fried I am sure it would do many
more 1000s as the motor runs smooth, cool and quiet.

The Treadmill motor that SC had gazillions of came with it's own
controller. I assumed people that were familiar with the treadmill motor
from SC would know what I am talking about. Sorry, I should have been more
specific.

The schematic in the drop box that I mentioned is for the GE controller. I
have both the GE controller and the GE DC treadmill motor. This motor has
a 5/8" shaft about 1-1/2" long and keyed 3/16" I think. It us rated at
2hp, but given it's size and max current draw, I am guessing closer to
3/4hp.

It is not a permanent magnet DC motor as it has windings.

Perhaps see my reply posts to William and Art as well.

Dave



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Default Treadmill motor wiring diagram, anyone???

On Sat, 10 May 2008 11:44:54 -0700 (PDT), "Dave, I can't do that"
wrote:

Hi,

The motor on my HF 4 x 36 belt sander went belly up after only about 6
or 8 years. Sheesh. I contacted HF for a new one and it is going to be
40-bucks plus shipping and 12 to 15 week wait. sigh

I was scrounging around under the benches and found one of the
Treadmill motors and controllers that Surplus Center used to sell.

Problem is I have a bunch of wires hanging out of the motor and no
idea who goes where.

I checked the dropbox and there is a schematic for the controller but
nothing for the wires to the motor.

Can anyone please help me with how to wire this up.

Thanks guys.

Dave



Geeze, Ive been trying to GIVE away 2.5hp 100vt DC treadmill motors
(NIB) for years. They only have 2 wires.

Still have a stack of about 20 , in the way.

Gunner


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Default Treadmill motor wiring diagram, anyone???

On May 10, 7:46�pm, "Wild_Bill" wrote:
Motor quality varies a lot when the country of origin is China. Maybe your
motor was from Taiwan.
Cheap/low quality motors is what China makes for import to the U.S. Their
motors don't need to meet any agency approval levels for safety or quality
like most other motors manufactured globally. The same goes for their other
electrical components.
Generally, the motors have no thermal protection, and the wiring is not
likely to be marked for any temperature rating.

You definitely got your money's worth out of those electrical parts, but the
other gotcha about stuff from China is, that's it's very unlikely that
repair parts will be available. I believe that most of the import
distributors just disassemble whole machines to use for repair parts, to try
to keep their customers happy.
The trouble is, when a design change takes place, an omitted part becomes
unobtainable (no 800 numbers to call in China, I guess).

Quite a few of the more recent motors from China have failed within weeks or
a couple of months from the time of purchase.

I generally keep a few spare quality motors around that I've found at garage
sales or flea markets for $5 to $10. After disassembling them for cleaning
and inspection, I'll test them and put them on a shelf for future use.

You could probably retrofit another AC motor onto your sander if there is
sufficient space. A fractional HP motor made by Dayton, Leeson, Century or
another domestic manufacturer would probably meet your requirements, if you
know what speed the original motor was.

General machine replacement motors won't require the delay relay that the
original motor needed.

For sanders, grinders and other metalworking machines it's always a good
idea to use a sealed motor that will keep the (electrically conductive) dust
and chips out.
Totally enclosed fan cooled (TEFC) motors are ideal.

There are solid-state replacement motor starting devices, for about $40 for
small motors, IIRC, but I don't remember the name of the manufacturer that I
was looking at about a year ago.

I remember seeing some open-frame treadmill motors from Surplus Center, used
to drive small lathes and drill presses. Those might be the type you have.

WB
.........
metalworking projectswww.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html

"Dave" wrote in message

...



Hi Bill,


Thanks for the reply.


The original motor was AC with a delay relay instead of start cap.
Therefore I cannot simply use a start cap as there is no centrifugal
switch in the motor. The AC motor runs fine, but I have to hand start it
to give it direction.


I'd also challenge the "cheap" statement as this thing has done 1000s of
hours work and had the switch-relay not fried I am sure it would do many
more 1000s as the motor runs smooth, cool and quiet.


The Treadmill motor that SC had gazillions of came with it's own
controller. I assumed people that were familiar with the treadmill motor
from SC would know what I am talking about. Sorry, I should have been more
specific.


The schematic in the drop box that I mentioned is for the GE controller. I
have both the GE controller and the GE DC treadmill motor. This motor has
a 5/8" shaft about 1-1/2" long and keyed 3/16" I think. It us rated at
2hp, but given it's size and max current draw, I am guessing closer to
3/4hp.


It is not a permanent magnet DC motor as it has windings.


Perhaps see my reply posts to William and Art as well.


Dave- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


From your description it sounds like the motors I have.
I'm using one on my 12" lathe and one on my drillpress.
Here is a schematic and some info.(first two.)
http://pictures.aol.com/galleries/en...143 9539706.1

For your other motor you might try a magnetic starting relay from an
old (before 1994) GE washer.
Engineman
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Default Treadmill motor wiring diagram, anyone???


"Dave" wrote in message
...
Hi Bill,

Thanks for the reply.

The original motor was AC with a delay relay instead of start cap.
Therefore I cannot simply use a start cap as there is no centrifugal
switch in the motor. The AC motor runs fine, but I have to hand start it
to give it direction.



why don't you just add a momentary push button switch to energize the start
windings until you find a working delay relay (AKA start relay)

any decent moementary switch will work, it's cheap, and you won't be trying
to adapt motors


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Default Treadmill motor wiring diagram, anyone???

On Sat, 10 May 2008 20:19:43 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
Gunner quickly quoth:

On Sat, 10 May 2008 11:44:54 -0700 (PDT), "Dave, I can't do that"
wrote:

Hi,

The motor on my HF 4 x 36 belt sander went belly up after only about 6
or 8 years. Sheesh. I contacted HF for a new one and it is going to be
40-bucks plus shipping and 12 to 15 week wait. sigh

I was scrounging around under the benches and found one of the
Treadmill motors and controllers that Surplus Center used to sell.

Problem is I have a bunch of wires hanging out of the motor and no
idea who goes where.

I checked the dropbox and there is a schematic for the controller but
nothing for the wires to the motor.

Can anyone please help me with how to wire this up.

Thanks guys.

Dave



Geeze, Ive been trying to GIVE away 2.5hp 100vt DC treadmill motors
(NIB) for years. They only have 2 wires.

Still have a stack of about 20 , in the way.


Hehehe. I still have the three you pawned off on me on that last
visit. You said "Hey, there's still room in your truck. Take some of
these!" g

-
Gently-used Firestone tires for sale at discount!
-----------
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Default Treadmill motor wiring diagram, anyone???

On Sat, 10 May 2008 23:47:56 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 10 May 2008 20:19:43 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
Gunner quickly quoth:

On Sat, 10 May 2008 11:44:54 -0700 (PDT), "Dave, I can't do that"
wrote:

Hi,

The motor on my HF 4 x 36 belt sander went belly up after only about 6
or 8 years. Sheesh. I contacted HF for a new one and it is going to be
40-bucks plus shipping and 12 to 15 week wait. sigh

I was scrounging around under the benches and found one of the
Treadmill motors and controllers that Surplus Center used to sell.

Problem is I have a bunch of wires hanging out of the motor and no
idea who goes where.

I checked the dropbox and there is a schematic for the controller but
nothing for the wires to the motor.

Can anyone please help me with how to wire this up.

Thanks guys.

Dave



Geeze, Ive been trying to GIVE away 2.5hp 100vt DC treadmill motors
(NIB) for years. They only have 2 wires.

Still have a stack of about 20 , in the way.


Hehehe. I still have the three you pawned off on me on that last
visit. You said "Hey, there's still room in your truck. Take some of
these!" g


I actually hooked one up through a big autotransformer and a bridge
rectifier, and they run pretty good.

Gunner


-
Gently-used Firestone tires for sale at discount!
-----------

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Default Treadmill motor wiring diagram, anyone???

Hi Bill,

Thanks for the reply.

The original motor was AC with a delay relay instead of start cap.
Therefore I cannot simply use a start cap as there is no centrifugal
switch in the motor. The AC motor runs fine, but I have to hand start it
to give it direction.

I'd also challenge the "cheap" statement as this thing has done 1000s of
hours work and had the switch-relay not fried I am sure it would do many
more 1000s as the motor runs smooth, cool and quiet.

The Treadmill motor that SC had gazillions of came with it's own
controller. I assumed people that were familiar with the treadmill motor
from SC would know what I am talking about. Sorry, I should have been
more specific.

The schematic in the drop box that I mentioned is for the GE controller.
I have both the GE controller and the GE DC treadmill motor. This motor
has a 5/8" shaft about 1-1/2" long and keyed 3/16" I think. It us rated
at 2hp, but given it's size and max current draw, I am guessing closer
to 3/4hp.

It is not a permanent magnet DC motor as it has windings.

Perhaps see my reply posts to William and Art as well.

Dave

Dave......
Get a Sinpac Switch (Electronic Starting Switch) PV16 should do it.
Google for the information. I've installed lots of them and haven't
had ANY crap out yet (YET!) Replaces centrifugal actuators and
switches easily.
Ken.


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Default Treadmill motor wiring diagram, anyone???


"Dave" wrote in message
...
HF don't have the switch and relay either as
they have no manual and I have no manual and
thus no part number for it.

I can't just add a cap to the motor as there
is no centrifugal switch.


Well---yes you can. I've got an OLD chinese
bench grinder with a totally
fragged centrifugal switch. Wired in a
momentary on pushbutton switch
in place of the centrifugal. Flip toggle/push
button, wait a couple of seconds
for it to come to speed, release button. Easier
to do than describe, and
it's worked just fine for about 8 years.

Bill


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Default Treadmill motor wiring diagram, anyone???

In article ,
Dave wrote:


Black and Yellow going to the field windings.
Blue and Brown going to the tach windings
Each of the brushes have spade terminals on them and no wires as yet.


Which would tell me one can wire it either series or shunt field.

Series provides the greatest torque. The more you load it the more
current it draws until it burns up. Connect one field wire to one brush
and line leads to the other brush and other field wire. Tach leads to a
tach circuit that'll suit or leave open.

The way you describe it, it was probably shunt wired. Shunt connected
provides better speed control and easier possibility of dynamic braking.
Reduce armature current and increase field current to brake. Connect the
field wires to the appropriate terminals on a drive. Same with the
brushes. Tach wires to appropriate terminals. Use a field-loss relay!
GA,AMWIST.

Tach windings can be used, and probably were, to control speed under
varying load conditions.
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Default Treadmill motor wiring diagram, anyone???

Thanks EngineMan,

That looks to be the controller I have, but my motor has two field
winding wires, a Black and a Yellow, where do they go?

Dave
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Default Treadmill motor wiring diagram, anyone???

Hi William,

Thanks for the great suggestion, I would be happy to do that but you
have just exceeded my knowledge of electrics and electronics. grin In
anticipation of a reply like this, yesterday I measured the following.

The motor has 3 wires going inside the body, Red, White and Brown.

Red - White is 2 Ohms
Red - Brown is 6 Ohms
White - Brown is 7 Ohms

If I apply power to two wires and kick start the motor by hand after
about 3 seconds I get a steady, no load current draw of

Red - White 7 Amps
Red - Brown 3.2 Amps
White - Brown 13 Amps.

I am guessing at 7A the Red - White are 115v the running pair. So now
where do I put the momentary switch?

Thanks for all the help so far.

Dave
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Default Treadmill motor wiring diagram, anyone???

On Sun, 11 May 2008 11:06:37 -0400, John Husvar
wrote:

In article ,
Dave wrote:


Black and Yellow going to the field windings.
Blue and Brown going to the tach windings
Each of the brushes have spade terminals on them and no wires as yet.


Which would tell me one can wire it either series or shunt field.

Series provides the greatest torque. The more you load it the more
current it draws until it burns up. Connect one field wire to one brush
and line leads to the other brush and other field wire. Tach leads to a
tach circuit that'll suit or leave open.

The way you describe it, it was probably shunt wired. Shunt connected
provides better speed control and easier possibility of dynamic braking.
Reduce armature current and increase field current to brake. Connect the
field wires to the appropriate terminals on a drive. Same with the
brushes. Tach wires to appropriate terminals. Use a field-loss relay!
GA,AMWIST.

Ok. Since nobody else in the know is piping up I think I better jump
in here before something goes poof.

First off these are series wound motors. I'd have to go look to make
sure but I'm betting the brushes are already wired in (I've never seen
or heard of one that wasn't already wired properly except possibly the
need to switch the brush wires to reverse the motor). If that's not
the case then we can go into more detail.

The controller should be fairly simple since you know where the
schematics are, I'd have to look them up myself before I could tell
you more and I'm the one who drew them.

Tach windings can be used, and probably were, to control speed under
varying load conditions.


Definitely in this case since the controller is triac based (in
other words it's just a fancy light dimmer). You might want to look at
the schematics before assuming this is a standard controller.


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Default Treadmill motor wiring diagram, anyone???

Hi Wayne,

Thanks for the schematics way back then. This is the controller that was
supplied with the motor so I assume it is the correct one. I had put
them away boxed together.

I popped one of the brush carriers out and there is no connection to
anything internally. The spade terminal on the carrier is the only
available spot for a connection, but to where?

It is possible that back in 2000 when I had this running, I had been
instructed by someone on RCM to rewire it so I could use a reversing switch.

Would that have involved the field wiring and brush connections?

Also I want this to run CCW ONLY, and it looks like the brush-angle
orientation suggests CW rotation.

Maybe, getting the old motor for the sander back into service with the
momentary switch is going to be the best bet. If I can get some wiring
instructions on that, I will be happy. See my reply this morning to
William for Ohms and Amps.

Dave
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Default Treadmill motor wiring diagram, anyone???


"Dave" wrote in message
. ..
Hi William,

Thanks for the great suggestion, I would be happy to do that but you have
just exceeded my knowledge of electrics and electronics. grin In
anticipation of a reply like this, yesterday I measured the following.

The motor has 3 wires going inside the body, Red, White and Brown.

Red - White is 2 Ohms
Red - Brown is 6 Ohms
White - Brown is 7 Ohms

If I apply power to two wires and kick start the motor by hand after about
3 seconds I get a steady, no load current draw of

Red - White 7 Amps
Red - Brown 3.2 Amps
White - Brown 13 Amps.

I am guessing at 7A the Red - White are 115v the running pair. So now
where do I put the momentary switch?

Thanks for all the help so far.

Dave



ok, try wiring it as follows

White wire - hook to power
Red wire - hook to on/off switch
other side of on/off switch - hook to power
Brown wire - hook to momentary switch
Other side of momentary switch - hook to red wire

test it, if it works and seems to run normally, then it's done. if it
sounds like it's working "hard", then it's not right - try other
combinations - if it doesn't start right, try connecting the momentary
switch to white instead of red, but I'm reasonably sure the above is correct


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Default Treadmill motor wiring diagram, anyone???

Thanks William, very much appreciated. I currently have the Red and
White connected to the Mains switch (both lines switched) and it has a
propensity to start and run CCW.

If it starts from a standstill, it gives a growl for about 1/3 second,
Amps shoot to about 13 then it runs CCW at 7A.

Surprisingly if I load the pulley light to moderately, Amps drop to
about 6.5. If I increase load to high then it goes back up to around 9A
at stall. Beats me but then I don't know much about this stuff.

I will go try the wiring you suggested and I think the following
suggestion will be the right one.

Brown wire - hook to momentary switch
Other side of momentary switch - hook to red wire


Thanks so much again.

Dave
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Default Treadmill motor wiring diagram, anyone???

On Sun, 11 May 2008 11:06:37 -0400, John Husvar
wrote:
In article ,
Dave wrote:


Black and Yellow going to the field windings.
Blue and Brown going to the tach windings
Each of the brushes have spade terminals on them and no wires as yet.


Which would tell me one can wire it either series or shunt field.

Series provides the greatest torque. The more you load it the more
current it draws until it burns up. Connect one field wire to one brush
and line leads to the other brush and other field wire. Tach leads to a
tach circuit that'll suit or leave open.

The way you describe it, it was probably shunt wired. Shunt connected
provides better speed control and easier possibility of dynamic braking.
Reduce armature current and increase field current to brake. Connect the
field wires to the appropriate terminals on a drive. Same with the
brushes. Tach wires to appropriate terminals. Use a field-loss relay!
GA,AMWIST.

Tach windings can be used, and probably were, to control speed under
varying load conditions.


You /really/ need the tach winding and motor controller for series
wound connected motors, and doubly so if it will ever be operating
unattended for even a few moments. Because if the load goes away with
full voltage applied that motor will gladly spin up to "Infinity RPM"
- or up to the armature (or attached equipment) self-destruct speed,
whichever comes first.

This is why large (100+ HP) traction motors aren't connected through
belts or gearboxes - the motorman might not be fast enough to kill the
main power before the excitement really starts...

-- Bruce --

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Default Treadmill motor wiring diagram. William!!

Woohooo William, the belt sander lives again.

Thanks, that did the trick. The first try was wired as described, the
motor just growled. I swapped the momentary switch wire to the Neutral
side of the mains and bingo. Starts in an instant, CCW every time.

Thank you so much for suggesting a momentary switch to replace the
relay. I would never have thought of it.

I had a suitable switch in the scrap box. I purchased a $20 box of mixed
switches from one of the surplus places and as it turns out I got three
robust momentary in the batch. A no cost repair, my favorite.

I am guessing this cheap Chinese motor will last another 10 years. g

Thanks also to all who offered help with the treadmill motor. I'd still
like to know how to wire it just in case I need to use it the future.

Dave


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Default Treadmill motor wiring diagram, anyone???

On May 11, 8:22�am, Dave wrote:
Thanks EngineMan,

That looks to be the controller I have, but my motor has two field
winding wires, a Black and a Yellow, where do they go?

Dave


This motor is intended to be series connected so you'd connect one
field wire to M1, the other to a grey wire and the other grey wire to
M2.
The relationship between the two determines direction of rotation.
Engineman
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Default Treadmill motor wiring diagram, anyone???

From what it sounds like, you're not connecting this motor directly to AC
power, are you? It certainly sounds like a DC motor from what I can glean
from the thread. If so, NO AC!!!

Ron





"Dave" wrote in message
...
Thanks William, very much appreciated. I currently have the Red and White
connected to the Mains switch (both lines switched) and it has a
propensity to start and run CCW.

If it starts from a standstill, it gives a growl for about 1/3 second,
Amps shoot to about 13 then it runs CCW at 7A.

Surprisingly if I load the pulley light to moderately, Amps drop to about
6.5. If I increase load to high then it goes back up to around 9A at
stall. Beats me but then I don't know much about this stuff.

I will go try the wiring you suggested and I think the following
suggestion will be the right one.

Brown wire - hook to momentary switch
Other side of momentary switch - hook to red wire


Thanks so much again.

Dave



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Default Treadmill motor wiring diagram. William!!


"Dave" wrote in message
...
Woohooo William, the belt sander lives again.

Thanks, that did the trick. The first try was wired as described, the
motor just growled. I swapped the momentary switch wire to the Neutral
side of the mains and bingo. Starts in an instant, CCW every time.

Thank you so much for suggesting a momentary switch to replace the relay.
I would never have thought of it.

I had a suitable switch in the scrap box. I purchased a $20 box of mixed
switches from one of the surplus places and as it turns out I got three
robust momentary in the batch. A no cost repair, my favorite.

I am guessing this cheap Chinese motor will last another 10 years. g

Thanks also to all who offered help with the treadmill motor. I'd still
like to know how to wire it just in case I need to use it the future.

Dave


glad to be of service -- if the windings dont' get destroyed, there is
almost no failure mode for an AC induction motor - bearings can go bad, but
they are cheap to replace, the starter can go bad, as you saw, but it's not
hard to work around, and if there is a capacitor, it can (and will) go bad
but is easy to change.

the moral here is to fix rather than replace with something different. It's
not too hard.


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Default Treadmill motor wiring diagram, anyone???

On Sun, 11 May 2008 09:50:45 -0700, Dave wrote:

Hi Wayne,

Thanks for the schematics way back then. This is the controller that was
supplied with the motor so I assume it is the correct one. I had put
them away boxed together.

I popped one of the brush carriers out and there is no connection to
anything internally. The spade terminal on the carrier is the only
available spot for a connection, but to where?

It is possible that back in 2000 when I had this running, I had been
instructed by someone on RCM to rewire it so I could use a reversing switch.

Would that have involved the field wiring and brush connections?

Yep.

Also I want this to run CCW ONLY, and it looks like the brush-angle
orientation suggests CW rotation.


Yes they're biased for one direction so I wouldn't recommend
extended running in reverse.

As for wiring it's pretty simple. Take one of the field windings and
run it to one of the brushes. Then take the other brush and field
winding to the controller. Swap either the field or the brush pair
(not both) to reverse.
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Default Treadmill motor DOA!

Hi,

Well, I wired the treadmill motor as described by several people. Ran
the wires to the controller as described, applied power and behold she
runs. I ran the speed up and woohooo, she runs fast.

A total of 30 seconds of blissful triumph and it suddenly coasted to a
stop. Never to start again. My guess is I fried something in the
controller. Yes, I know I had to wind the knob back to the start to
re-start it.

Oh, well, I think I paid 40-bucks for the motor and control back in
2000. I guess the motor is still fine, but no smoke, no noise just a
silent run down. grin Nothing overly warm on the control.

Thanks to all who tried to help with this.

Dave


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Default Treadmill motor DOA!

On Mon, 12 May 2008 16:29:22 -0700, Dave wrote:

Hi,

Well, I wired the treadmill motor as described by several people. Ran
the wires to the controller as described, applied power and behold she
runs. I ran the speed up and woohooo, she runs fast.

A total of 30 seconds of blissful triumph and it suddenly coasted to a
stop. Never to start again. My guess is I fried something in the
controller. Yes, I know I had to wind the knob back to the start to
re-start it.

Oh, well, I think I paid 40-bucks for the motor and control back in
2000. I guess the motor is still fine, but no smoke, no noise just a
silent run down. grin Nothing overly warm on the control.

Thanks to all who tried to help with this.

Dave

Look for a bad solder connection on the power device. I had to
resolder mine to make it work the first time. Cannot remember exactly
where, but it was in the power circuit.
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Default Treadmill motor DOA!

Sweep the pot. Check the loop from the rpm sensor in the motor.
JR
Dweller in the cellar

On Mon, 12 May 2008 16:29:22 -0700, Dave wrote:

Hi,

Well, I wired the treadmill motor as described by several people. Ran
the wires to the controller as described, applied power and behold she
runs. I ran the speed up and woohooo, she runs fast.

A total of 30 seconds of blissful triumph and it suddenly coasted to a
stop. Never to start again. My guess is I fried something in the
controller. Yes, I know I had to wind the knob back to the start to
re-start it.

Oh, well, I think I paid 40-bucks for the motor and control back in
2000. I guess the motor is still fine, but no smoke, no noise just a
silent run down. grin Nothing overly warm on the control.

Thanks to all who tried to help with this.

Dave

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Default Treadmill motor DOA!

On Tue, 13 May 2008 18:23:59 -0700, JR North
wrote:

Sweep the pot. Check the loop from the rpm sensor in the motor.
JR
Dweller in the cellar

On Mon, 12 May 2008 16:29:22 -0700, Dave wrote:

Hi,


Check for bad solder joints on the SCR or whatever the output device
is, as well as all through the power circuit.

Well, I wired the treadmill motor as described by several people. Ran
the wires to the controller as described, applied power and behold she
runs. I ran the speed up and woohooo, she runs fast.

A total of 30 seconds of blissful triumph and it suddenly coasted to a
stop. Never to start again. My guess is I fried something in the
controller. Yes, I know I had to wind the knob back to the start to
re-start it.

Oh, well, I think I paid 40-bucks for the motor and control back in
2000. I guess the motor is still fine, but no smoke, no noise just a
silent run down. grin Nothing overly warm on the control.

Thanks to all who tried to help with this.

Dave


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Default Treadmill motor DOA!

On Mon, 12 May 2008 16:29:22 -0700, Dave wrote:

Hi,

Well, I wired the treadmill motor as described by several people. Ran
the wires to the controller as described, applied power and behold she
runs. I ran the speed up and woohooo, she runs fast.

A total of 30 seconds of blissful triumph and it suddenly coasted to a
stop. Never to start again. My guess is I fried something in the
controller. Yes, I know I had to wind the knob back to the start to
re-start it.

Oh, well, I think I paid 40-bucks for the motor and control back in
2000. I guess the motor is still fine, but no smoke, no noise just a
silent run down. grin Nothing overly warm on the control.

Thanks to all who tried to help with this.

Dave


your treadmill motor is a DC motor. Take the motor, hook it to your car
battery - it ought to run. If it does, something happened in the
controller. If it doesn't, check that the brushes aren't stuck.


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Default Treadmill motor DOA!

On May 13, 11:23 pm, "William Noble" wrote:

Hi William,

Yup, the motor still runs. It must definitely be the control. I have
put it all away now and will look at it if I ever need to make the
controller work.

Thanks to all.

Dave
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