I have a brand-spankin'-new Kurt D675 vise (no oopses yet) and I needed a way to
do angled slots. I found this swivel base on eBay
http://cgi.ebay.com/KURT-SWIVEL-BASE...QQcmdZViewItem
BUT...my little brain doesn't see how this fits, it seems like I need some other
part. I confess, I didn't take the vise off of the mill because it's within
half a thou of perfect and somebody's got a job in process. I picked-up a
cheapie 4" swivel vise at the local store for the immediate job and actually,
it's pretty nice! But, I wonder if the attachment for the Kurt would be a good
investment and if I would just leave it on all the time or is there a downside
to that.

Why is it that the better and better your tooling gets, the more complex,
intricate and difficult your designs get...it seems were always on the edge of
the capabilities of out stuff. I'm afraid I'll loose my simplistic thinking.

"Tom Gardner" wrote:

I have a brand-spankin'-new Kurt D675 vise (no oopses yet) and I needed a way to
do angled slots. I found this swivel base on eBay
http://cgi.ebay.com/KURT-SWIVEL-BASE...QQcmdZViewItem
BUT...my little brain doesn't see how this fits, it seems like I need some other
part. I confess, I didn't take the vise off of the mill because it's within
half a thou of perfect and somebody's got a job in process. I picked-up a
cheapie 4" swivel vise at the local store for the immediate job and actually,
it's pretty nice! But, I wonder if the attachment for the Kurt would be a good
investment and if I would just leave it on all the time or is there a downside
to that.

That round thing in the center is a pin that fits a hole in the bottom of
your vise. There is a tee slot groove milled around the diameter of the
base that matches up with the tee slot holes in your vise.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

I picked-up a cheapie 4" swivel vise at the local store for the immediate job
and actually, it's pretty nice...


Where did you get it Tom, at Production Tool or JTS Machinery? I have the 4"
vise from JTS and like it a lot also.

--
Dennis

The answer to your question: I do keep the swivel under the vise.

The only downside for me is that I loose the height of the swivel
between the quill and the table. It has gotten in the way a couple of
times. Then I take the whole thing off and install the old bridgeport
vise.

Pete Stanaitis
---------------------
Tom Gardner wrote:
I have a brand-spankin'-new Kurt D675 vise (no oopses yet) and I needed a way to
do angled slots. I found this swivel base on eBay
http://cgi.ebay.com/KURT-SWIVEL-BASE...QQcmdZViewItem
BUT...my little brain doesn't see how this fits, it seems like I need some other
part. I confess, I didn't take the vise off of the mill because it's within
half a thou of perfect and somebody's got a job in process. I picked-up a
cheapie 4" swivel vise at the local store for the immediate job and actually,
it's pretty nice! But, I wonder if the attachment for the Kurt would be a good
investment and if I would just leave it on all the time or is there a downside
to that.

Why is it that the better and better your tooling gets, the more complex,
intricate and difficult your designs get...it seems were always on the edge of
the capabilities of out stuff. I'm afraid I'll loose my simplistic thinking.

Most shops I've seen leave it in place, some pull it. Up side is that it
is always ready, downside is the 1-1/4" or so less effective knee
height and perhaps a little less rigidity.

Tom Gardner wrote:
I have a brand-spankin'-new Kurt D675 vise (no oopses yet) and I needed a way to
do angled slots. I found this swivel base on eBay
http://cgi.ebay.com/KURT-SWIVEL-BASE...QQcmdZViewItem
BUT...my little brain doesn't see how this fits, it seems like I need some other
part. I confess, I didn't take the vise off of the mill because it's within
half a thou of perfect and somebody's got a job in process. I picked-up a
cheapie 4" swivel vise at the local store for the immediate job and actually,
it's pretty nice! But, I wonder if the attachment for the Kurt would be a good
investment and if I would just leave it on all the time or is there a downside
to that.

Why is it that the better and better your tooling gets, the more complex,
intricate and difficult your designs get...it seems were always on the edge of
the capabilities of out stuff. I'm afraid I'll loose my simplistic thinking.

"DT" wrote in message
news:c6ydncKrsM5hu3nanZ2dnUVZ_rLinZ2d@wideopenwest .com...
I picked-up a cheapie 4" swivel vise at the local store for the immediate job
and actually, it's pretty nice...


Where did you get it Tom, at Production Tool or JTS Machinery? I have the 4"
vise from JTS and like it a lot also.

--
Dennis


Latch Supply on St.Clair.

Tom Gardner wrote:
I have a brand-spankin'-new Kurt D675 vise (no oopses yet) and I needed a way to
do angled slots. I found this swivel base on eBay
http://cgi.ebay.com/KURT-SWIVEL-BASE...QQcmdZViewItem
BUT...my little brain doesn't see how this fits, it seems like I need some other
part. I confess, I didn't take the vise off of the mill because it's within
half a thou of perfect and somebody's got a job in process. I picked-up a
cheapie 4" swivel vise at the local store for the immediate job and actually,
it's pretty nice! But, I wonder if the attachment for the Kurt would be a good
investment and if I would just leave it on all the time or is there a downside
to that.

I got a Chinese Kurk knock-off some years ago, it came with the swivel.
The first cut I made with it, the vise was vibrating like crazy. So,
I took off the swivel, bolted the vise directly to the table, and
haven't used it since. Unless you will always make light cuts with the
swivel, you will not be very happy with it at all. I'm not talking
about a slight vibration, I could SEE the vise rocking from side to side!
Maybe the Kurt is stiffer in some way, but I doubt it is a great
improvement on the knock-off, as cast iron is fairly cheap.

Jon

I never notice any of this vibration with my Kurt swivel.
What kind of cuts do you take? I will often take a 40 thou full cut
with a 1 1/2" face mill.

Pete Stanaitis.
------------------------


I got a Chinese Kurk knock-off some years ago, it came with the swivel.
The first cut I made with it, the vise was vibrating like crazy. So, I
took off the swivel, bolted the vise directly to the table, and haven't
used it since. Unless you will always make light cuts with the swivel,
you will not be very happy with it at all. I'm not talking about a
slight vibration, I could SEE the vise rocking from side to side!
Maybe the Kurt is stiffer in some way, but I doubt it is a great
improvement on the knock-off, as cast iron is fairly cheap.

Jon

I sold a bunch of these and yes, something like that should fit. The
vise has a hole in the bottom in the middle to go over the protruding
round piece in the base.

Even better are swiveling and tilting vises. I have one by Palmgren, a
6" vise that swivels on a round base (like the one shown) and also
tilts to up to 45 degrees. It is very solid and much more so than the
chinese tilting imports.

i

I picked-up a cheapie 4" swivel vise at the local store for the immediate
job and actually, it's pretty nice...


Where did you get it Tom, at Production Tool or JTS Machinery? I have the 4"
vise from JTS and like it a lot also.


Latch Supply on St.Clair.


Neat, a place I wasn't aware of. What all do they have there?


--
Dennis

On 2008-03-21, Jon Elson wrote:


Tom Gardner wrote:
I have a brand-spankin'-new Kurt D675 vise (no oopses yet) and I needed a way to
do angled slots. I found this swivel base on eBay

I got a Chinese Kurk knock-off some years ago, it came with the swivel.

A "Kurk" -- they couldn't even copy the name right? :-)

The first cut I made with it, the vise was vibrating like crazy. So,
I took off the swivel, bolted the vise directly to the table, and
haven't used it since. Unless you will always make light cuts with the
swivel, you will not be very happy with it at all. I'm not talking
about a slight vibration, I could SEE the vise rocking from side to side!

Hmm ... the things which matter he

1) The pin allows the vise to fully bottom on the swivel base.

2) There are no chips resting on and no dings in the swivel base
(which would otherwise hold part of the vise too high.

3) The T-bolts in the swivel base fit well, stick up through the ears
of the main vise body, and have proper sized flanged nuts firmly
tightened onto them to hold the vise body firmly onto the swivel
base.

4) The swivel base is likewise chip free in its interface with the
table, and firmly held down with proper T-studs and flanged nuts.

5) The swivel base should be checked for warpage before bolting
it down. If it is warped, especially in such a way as to hold
the sections between the hold-down ears clear of the table, it
could indeed rock.

6) And -- which I should have put as the first item, the alignment
keys in the bottom of the main vise body should be removed, and
replaced on the bottom of the swivel base -- or just set aside.
If they are left on the main vise body, they may hold the vise
a bit clear of the swivel base and thus allow it to rock.

Maybe the Kurt is stiffer in some way, but I doubt it is a great
improvement on the knock-off, as cast iron is fairly cheap.

Or -- maybe one or more of the points above needed seeing to.

I've had good results with a swivel base on both a 4" Kurt clone
and a 3" Kurt clone -- with rather heavy cuts in a horizontal spindle
milling machine.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Tom - My Kurt vice sits right one. There are lugs that screw in the bottoms and
they fit the mill table slots. Tram to the jaws and you can move the vise
off-and-on as long as the slots are true and you leave the lugs on.

Before I buy a rotating base - I'd look at one at MSC or some place - kurt site
for a catalog. That might be missing a top plate that fits the vise.

I have a catalog, but it is on a disk among tons of other files.

Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


Tom Gardner wrote:
I have a brand-spankin'-new Kurt D675 vise (no oopses yet) and I needed a way to
do angled slots. I found this swivel base on eBay
http://cgi.ebay.com/KURT-SWIVEL-BASE...QQcmdZViewItem
BUT...my little brain doesn't see how this fits, it seems like I need some other
part. I confess, I didn't take the vise off of the mill because it's within
half a thou of perfect and somebody's got a job in process. I picked-up a
cheapie 4" swivel vise at the local store for the immediate job and actually,
it's pretty nice! But, I wonder if the attachment for the Kurt would be a good
investment and if I would just leave it on all the time or is there a downside
to that.

Why is it that the better and better your tooling gets, the more complex,
intricate and difficult your designs get...it seems were always on the edge of
the capabilities of out stuff. I'm afraid I'll loose my simplistic thinking.




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"DT" wrote in message
news:17udnbkrfssKynnanZ2dnUVZ_tPinZ2d@wideopenwest .com...

I picked-up a cheapie 4" swivel vise at the local store for the immediate
job and actually, it's pretty nice...


Where did you get it Tom, at Production Tool or JTS Machinery? I have the 4"
vise from JTS and like it a lot also.


Latch Supply on St.Clair.


Neat, a place I wasn't aware of. What all do they have there?


--
Dennis


They used to be a used equipment dealer and have downsized into general machine
shop supply. They still have a good selection of used tooling and they have
just about anything a production shop could need. Their prices are very good
and they can get you anything you want. Their staff isn't the most
knowledgeable but do OK.

spaco wrote:
I never notice any of this vibration with my Kurt swivel.
What kind of cuts do you take? I will often take a 40 thou full cut
with a 1 1/2" face mill.
Well, I assumed that the same factory cloned the vis and swivel,
but that could be totally wrong. The vise was a VERY well-made
piece, and I still use it, and am totally happy with it. I take
heavy cuts from time to time, and have never had much trouble
with it unless I'm taking cuts at the very limits of my
Bridgeport. I did have a piece slide in the vise once, but that
was after the head started to swing on the swivel, and it was
"sucking" in the workpiece. I hit the off switch and dived for
cover.

But, the swivel part must not have been made to the same
standards, or maybe there was some swarf between vise and
swivel, allowing it to rock. But, I've never put the swivel
base back on.

Jon

DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2008-03-21, Jon Elson wrote:


Tom Gardner wrote:

I have a brand-spankin'-new Kurt D675 vise (no oopses yet) and I needed a way to
do angled slots. I found this swivel base on eBay


I got a Chinese Kurk knock-off some years ago, it came with the swivel.


A "Kurk" -- they couldn't even copy the name right? :-)
Nah, I couldn't even TYPE right! The plate has fallen off, but
it had some Chinese name on it.

2) There are no chips resting on and no dings in the swivel base
(which would otherwise hold part of the vise too high.

I'll bet there may have been some chips there. the pin was
binding in the vise body, so I had great difficulty separating
the two, and they've never been together again.

6) And -- which I should have put as the first item, the alignment
keys in the bottom of the main vise body should be removed, and
replaced on the bottom of the swivel base -- or just set aside.
If they are left on the main vise body, they may hold the vise
a bit clear of the swivel base and thus allow it to rock.

The keys hang way out beyond the swivel, so they can't interfere.

Maybe the Kurt is stiffer in some way, but I doubt it is a great
improvement on the knock-off, as cast iron is fairly cheap.


Or -- maybe one or more of the points above needed seeing to.

I've had good results with a swivel base on both a 4" Kurt clone
and a 3" Kurt clone -- with rather heavy cuts in a horizontal spindle
milling machine.
This is the 6" model, and I wish I had a bigger one, but I
wouldn't want to lift it. Anyway, now that I have CNC, I don't
NEED the swivel anymore, so I don't care what the problem was.

Jon

On 2008-03-23, Jon Elson wrote:
DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2008-03-21, Jon Elson wrote:

[ ... ]

2) There are no chips resting on and no dings in the swivel base
(which would otherwise hold part of the vise too high.

I'll bet there may have been some chips there. the pin was
binding in the vise body, so I had great difficulty separating
the two, and they've never been together again.

Hmm ... if the pin was binding, perhaps the vise body did not
set down far enough -- held up by the pin, and thus pulling up part of
the swivel ring.

6) And -- which I should have put as the first item, the alignment
keys in the bottom of the main vise body should be removed, and
replaced on the bottom of the swivel base -- or just set aside.
If they are left on the main vise body, they may hold the vise
a bit clear of the swivel base and thus allow it to rock.

The keys hang way out beyond the swivel, so they can't interfere.

O.K.

[ ... ]

I've had good results with a swivel base on both a 4" Kurt clone
and a 3" Kurt clone -- with rather heavy cuts in a horizontal spindle
milling machine.
This is the 6" model, and I wish I had a bigger one, but I
wouldn't want to lift it. Anyway, now that I have CNC, I don't
NEED the swivel anymore, so I don't care what the problem was.

The horizontal is a small one a Nichols, and the swivel base for
the 4" Kurt clone projects far enough off the edge of the table to limit
the Y-travel. With the vise alone, there is no problem. There is only
one T-slot in the table, so there is no option to mount the swivel base
in a different T-slot to avoid the intereference.

The 3" clone fits with no interference, so it was what I used
until I got a genuine Nichols milling vise which is closer to 5" grip
and on a swivel, but with no interference. Also -- the swivel base has
a vernier scale to allow angle setting to 15 minutes IIRC. The Kurt
clone does not even zero properly. :-)

I do have a 6" genuine Kurt (those are more affordable than the
smaller ones), but no swivel base for it, because that machine was a CNC
machine, too.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---