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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Bond. James Bond.
Well, maybe not James Bond, but a bonding question. I have just
completed building new rip fence rails for my table saw and just have one more thing to do. I need to attach a rule. I have looked at a few things but it seems that I am down to about two choices since I want this done on the cheap. Cheap meaning just a couple of bucks if possible. I know. After spending the money and doing all the work so far, why scrimp a buck or two now? But I have scrimped the whole thing and have maybe $30 invested in the rails. I don't want to spend a whole third of that amount just to attach a rule. And now, it is just the finding out how to do it. Anyway, I have been thinking about buying a refill for a standard tape measure and using the first part of it. But "bond"ing the curved spring steel to the fence rail is seeming like a problem. I will have to see if I can find a refill for one of the flat tape measures, but that is another topic. I have sacrificed an old tape measure that I had laying around that had been accidentally left out in a few rains so it got a little rusty. I knew it would come in handy for something someday. I sanded a couple of feet of the back of it down to bare metal and tried to "bond" it to a scrap of steel (the same type used for the fence rail). The first time I tried JB weld (would that be "James Bond" weld???), and the second time I used a 5 min epoxy. I currently have a third try using a "industrial" contact cement, but I am not expecting much from it. I cleaned both parts so I am sure that there was bare clean metal. The JB weld and the epoxy both seemed to work at first. The tape was stuck down flat to the metal But it didn't take very much effort to separate the tape from the steel. Little enough effort that I don't think the "bond" would last very long at all. It was easier than pulling blue painters tape off of a roll. So. How could I "bond" this steel tape measure to a piece of steel square tubing keeping the operative word "cheap" in mind? TIA, Wayne P.S. I have seen a few adhesive back rules made just for this purpose but so far have not found one that has the measurements laid out in a way that I like. Besides they are 9 bucks and up. |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Bond. James Bond.
On Thu, 20 Mar 2008 02:57:15 GMT, NoOne N Particular
wrote: Well, maybe not James Bond, but a bonding question. I have just completed building new rip fence rails for my table saw and just have one more thing to do. I need to attach a rule. I have looked at a few things but it seems that I am down to about two choices since I want this done on the cheap. Cheap meaning just a couple of bucks if possible. I know. After spending the money and doing all the work so far, why scrimp a buck or two now? But I have scrimped the whole thing and have maybe $30 invested in the rails. I don't want to spend a whole third of that amount just to attach a rule. And now, it is just the finding out how to do it. Anyway, I have been thinking about buying a refill for a standard tape measure and using the first part of it. But "bond"ing the curved spring steel to the fence rail is seeming like a problem. I will have to see if I can find a refill for one of the flat tape measures, but that is another topic. I have sacrificed an old tape measure that I had laying around that had been accidentally left out in a few rains so it got a little rusty. I knew it would come in handy for something someday. I sanded a couple of feet of the back of it down to bare metal and tried to "bond" it to a scrap of steel (the same type used for the fence rail). The first time I tried JB weld (would that be "James Bond" weld???), and the second time I used a 5 min epoxy. I currently have a third try using a "industrial" contact cement, but I am not expecting much from it. I cleaned both parts so I am sure that there was bare clean metal. The JB weld and the epoxy both seemed to work at first. The tape was stuck down flat to the metal But it didn't take very much effort to separate the tape from the steel. Little enough effort that I don't think the "bond" would last very long at all. It was easier than pulling blue painters tape off of a roll. So. How could I "bond" this steel tape measure to a piece of steel square tubing keeping the operative word "cheap" in mind? TIA, Wayne Look for a flat aluminum yardstick at Wal-Mawrt, paint stores and/or lumberyards. http://www.acehardware.com/sm-ace-al...i-1285788.html Use machine screws rather than glue. They're cheaper and work better. Try a tackle shop for stick-on rulers intended to stick on the (in)side of a boat to check fish for legal size. http://tinyurl.com/2q4u5c Either of these might be available free or close to it if they bear advertising. |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Bond. James Bond.
On Mar 19, 4:57 pm, NoOne N Particular wrote:
Well, maybe not James Bond, but a bonding question. I have just completed building new rip fence rails for my table saw and just have one more thing to do. I need to attach a rule. I have looked at a few things but it seems that I am down to about two choices since I want this done on the cheap. Cheap meaning just a couple of bucks if possible. I know. After spending the money and doing all the work so far, why scrimp a buck or two now? But I have scrimped the whole thing and have maybe $30 invested in the rails. I don't want to spend a whole third of that amount just to attach a rule. And now, it is just the finding out how to do it. Anyway, I have been thinking about buying a refill for a standard tape measure and using the first part of it. But "bond"ing the curved spring steel to the fence rail is seeming like a problem. I will have to see if I can find a refill for one of the flat tape measures, but that is another topic. I have sacrificed an old tape measure that I had laying around that had been accidentally left out in a few rains so it got a little rusty. I knew it would come in handy for something someday. I sanded a couple of feet of the back of it down to bare metal and tried to "bond" it to a scrap of steel (the same type used for the fence rail). The first time I tried JB weld (would that be "James Bond" weld???), and the second time I used a 5 min epoxy. I currently have a third try using a "industrial" contact cement, but I am not expecting much from it. I cleaned both parts so I am sure that there was bare clean metal. The JB weld and the epoxy both seemed to work at first. The tape was stuck down flat to the metal But it didn't take very much effort to separate the tape from the steel. Little enough effort that I don't think the "bond" would last very long at all. It was easier than pulling blue painters tape off of a roll. So. How could I "bond" this steel tape measure to a piece of steel square tubing keeping the operative word "cheap" in mind? TIA, Wayne P.S. I have seen a few adhesive back rules made just for this purpose but so far have not found one that has the measurements laid out in a way that I like. Besides they are 9 bucks and up. I admit they seem a bit overpriced. http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=432 Karl |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Bond. James Bond.
On Thu, 20 Mar 2008 02:57:15 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, NoOne
N Particular quickly quoth: Well, maybe not James Bond, but a bonding question. I have just completed building new rip fence rails for my table saw and just have one more thing to do. I need to attach a rule. Try Lee Valley for sticky rules. http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,43513,43517 Harbor Fright also used to carry them but I can't find them today. But speaking of James Bond, anyone ever used one of these? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96164 I'm looking at the picture and trying to figure out how they get the little bastid to -do- all that. -- Death is more universal than life; everyone dies but not everyone lives. -- A. Sachs |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Bond. James Bond.
On Thu, 20 Mar 2008 05:09:48 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote: I admit they seem a bit overpriced. http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=432 Karl I don't know how durable they are, but I've bought stick-on tape measures in fabric stores for cheap. Singer was the manufacturer (OK, distributor), IIRC. I used them on an optical bench, where wear wasn't much of an issue. Joe |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Bond. James Bond.
wrote in message ... On Mar 19, 4:57 pm, NoOne N Particular wrote: Well, maybe not James Bond, but a bonding question. I have just completed building new rip fence rails for my table saw and just have one more thing to do. I need to attach a rule. I have looked at a few things but it seems that I am down to about two choices since I want this done on the cheap. Cheap meaning just a couple of bucks if possible. I know. After spending the money and doing all the work so far, why scrimp a buck or two now? But I have scrimped the whole thing and have maybe $30 invested in the rails. I don't want to spend a whole third of that amount just to attach a rule. And now, it is just the finding out how to do it. Anyway, I have been thinking about buying a refill for a standard tape measure and using the first part of it. But "bond"ing the curved spring steel to the fence rail is seeming like a problem. I will have to see if I can find a refill for one of the flat tape measures, but that is another topic. I have sacrificed an old tape measure that I had laying around that had been accidentally left out in a few rains so it got a little rusty. I knew it would come in handy for something someday. I sanded a couple of feet of the back of it down to bare metal and tried to "bond" it to a scrap of steel (the same type used for the fence rail). The first time I tried JB weld (would that be "James Bond" weld???), and the second time I used a 5 min epoxy. I currently have a third try using a "industrial" contact cement, but I am not expecting much from it. I cleaned both parts so I am sure that there was bare clean metal. The JB weld and the epoxy both seemed to work at first. The tape was stuck down flat to the metal But it didn't take very much effort to separate the tape from the steel. Little enough effort that I don't think the "bond" would last very long at all. It was easier than pulling blue painters tape off of a roll. So. How could I "bond" this steel tape measure to a piece of steel square tubing keeping the operative word "cheap" in mind? TIA, Wayne P.S. I have seen a few adhesive back rules made just for this purpose but so far have not found one that has the measurements laid out in a way that I like. Besides they are 9 bucks and up. I admit they seem a bit overpriced. http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=432 Karl $5.05, right to left model at http://www.woodzone.com/ 48" Probably work ok. wws |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Bond. James Bond.
Snippage
Look for a flat aluminum yardstick at Wal-Mawrt, paint stores and/or lumberyards. http://www.acehardware.com/sm-ace-al...i-1285788.html Use machine screws rather than glue. They're cheaper and work better. Try a tackle shop for stick-on rulers intended to stick on the (in)side of a boat to check fish for legal size. http://tinyurl.com/2q4u5c Either of these might be available free or close to it if they bear advertising. I have seen a couple of the aluminum yardsticks. Most of the ones that I have seen are wider than I have room for and I guess there are two more things that I should have mentioned. 1)- I am looking for 48" and 2)- I haven't seen any rulers or "yardsticks" that long that are thin enough. The fence would then ride on the ruler instead of the fence rails. Now the tackle shop stick on rulers. Hmmmm. I just don't know about trying to find an accurate ruler in a fishing supply store. :-) HONEST OFFICER, MY RULER SAYS IT IS OVER LEGAL SIZE!! Seriously though. I wonder how accurate they would be. Thanks anyway. Wayne |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Bond. James Bond.
I admit they seem a bit overpriced. http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=432 Karl I have seen these and it may come down to one of those. I think they are $8.99 at Rockler, but their's are yellow. Thanks, Wayne |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Bond. James Bond.
Joe wrote:
On Thu, 20 Mar 2008 05:09:48 -0700 (PDT), " wrote: I admit they seem a bit overpriced. http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=432 Karl I don't know how durable they are, but I've bought stick-on tape measures in fabric stores for cheap. Singer was the manufacturer (OK, distributor), IIRC. I used them on an optical bench, where wear wasn't much of an issue. Joe Actually my wife suggested one of those, but I would also question the accuracy with them. Thanks, Wayne |
#10
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Bond. James Bond.
SNIPPAGE
Karl $5.05, right to left model at http://www.woodzone.com/ 48" Probably work ok. wws I will look into those too. Thanks, Wayne |
#11
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Bond. James Bond.
Larry Jaques wrote:
On Thu, 20 Mar 2008 02:57:15 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, NoOne N Particular quickly quoth: Well, maybe not James Bond, but a bonding question. I have just completed building new rip fence rails for my table saw and just have one more thing to do. I need to attach a rule. Try Lee Valley for sticky rules. http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,43513,43517 Harbor Fright also used to carry them but I can't find them today. But speaking of James Bond, anyone ever used one of these? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96164 I'm looking at the picture and trying to figure out how they get the little bastid to -do- all that. -- Death is more universal than life; everyone dies but not everyone lives. -- A. Sachs The Lee Valley rule looks ok, but according to their website it costs $8 bucks to send a $6.50 tape so we are back near $15 total!!!! Thanks anyway, Wayne |
#12
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Bond. James Bond.
On Mar 19, 9:57*pm, NoOne N Particular wrote:
Well, maybe not James Bond, but a bonding question. *I have just completed building new rip fence rails for my table saw and just have one more thing to do. *I need to attach a rule. So. *How could I "bond" this steel tape measure to a piece of steel square tubing keeping the operative word "cheap" in mind? TIA, Wayne P.S. *I have seen a few adhesive back rules made just for this purpose but so far have not found one that has the measurements laid out in a way that I like. *Besides they are 9 bucks and up. Starrett sell a variety of adhesive-backed steel tapes - various lengths, left to right and right to left, English and metric. Hard to imagine they wouldn't have what you want. Don't know about the prices. John Martin |
#13
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Bond. James Bond.
On Thu, 20 Mar 2008 18:23:36 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
NoOne N Particular quickly quoth: Larry Jaques wrote: On Thu, 20 Mar 2008 02:57:15 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, NoOne N Particular quickly quoth: Well, maybe not James Bond, but a bonding question. I have just completed building new rip fence rails for my table saw and just have one more thing to do. I need to attach a rule. Try Lee Valley for sticky rules. http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,43513,43517 Harbor Fright also used to carry them but I can't find them today. But speaking of James Bond, anyone ever used one of these? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96164 I'm looking at the picture and trying to figure out how they get the little bastid to -do- all that. -- Death is more universal than life; everyone dies but not everyone lives. -- A. Sachs The Lee Valley rule looks ok, but according to their website it costs $8 bucks to send a $6.50 tape so we are back near $15 total!!!! No, no, no, no, no. You've got it all wrong, Wayne. Any good tool collector knows that if you purchase dozens of different tools at one time, the shipping fee is distributed so that shipping on any given tool is only 15 cents. Stock up! LVT is great stuff. (They were a really great deal before Shrub's US dollar went into the dumpster.) -- Death is more universal than life; everyone dies but not everyone lives. -- A. Sachs |
#14
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Bond. James Bond.
On Thu, 20 Mar 2008 18:06:52 -0700, NoOne N Particular
wrote: Snippage Look for a flat aluminum yardstick at Wal-Mawrt, paint stores and/or lumberyards. http://www.acehardware.com/sm-ace-al...i-1285788.html Use machine screws rather than glue. They're cheaper and work better. Try a tackle shop for stick-on rulers intended to stick on the (in)side of a boat to check fish for legal size. http://tinyurl.com/2q4u5c Either of these might be available free or close to it if they bear advertising. I have seen a couple of the aluminum yardsticks. Most of the ones that I have seen are wider than I have room for and I guess there are two more things that I should have mentioned. 1)- I am looking for 48" and 2)- I haven't seen any rulers or "yardsticks" that long that are thin enough. The fence would then ride on the ruler instead of the fence rails. Get yourself the first four feet of a fifty foot steel tape - the kind with a crank on the side of the case. Flat, 1/2" wide, 0.003" thick, finish of your choice - stainless,white, or yellow. Gerry :-)} London, Canada |
#15
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Bond. James Bond.
SNIPPAGE Stock up! LVT is great stuff. (They were a really great deal before Shrub's US dollar went into the dumpster.) One of the reasons that I have to do this on the cheap is because of that very reason. Last time I went to Rockler's was to get some simple knobs and I left $200 later without the knobs. But I had some kool stuff. I even needed SOME of it. NEEDED! HAD TO HAVE IT! Yeah! I needed ALL of it. Unfortunately, my budget is now blown for the rest of the year and I don't really have money to buy wood. :-) Wayne I need to find a way to stop buying gas. In two days I spent $160 on gas for my cars. $98 for diesel fuel in my pickup and $62 for my car. Ouch. |
#16
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Bond. James Bond.
NoOne N Particular wrote: SNIPPAGE Stock up! LVT is great stuff. (They were a really great deal before Shrub's US dollar went into the dumpster.) One of the reasons that I have to do this on the cheap is because of that very reason. Last time I went to Rockler's was to get some simple knobs and I left $200 later without the knobs. But I had some kool stuff. I even needed SOME of it. NEEDED! HAD TO HAVE IT! Yeah! I needed ALL of it. Unfortunately, my budget is now blown for the rest of the year and I don't really have money to buy wood. :-) I've been picking up oddball pallets that the dealers don't want. I've picked up several 10 ' and 12' foot, and the place has plenty more. I am going to use some of it for workbenches. -- aioe.org is home to cowards and terrorists Add this line to your news proxy nfilter.dat file * drop Path:*aioe.org!not-for-mail to drop all aioe.org traffic. http://improve-usenet.org/index.html |
#17
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Bond. James Bond.
On Fri, 21 Mar 2008 03:17:24 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, NoOne
N Particular quickly quoth: SNIPPAGE Stock up! LVT is great stuff. (They were a really great deal before Shrub's US dollar went into the dumpster.) One of the reasons that I have to do this on the cheap is because of that very reason. Last time I went to Rockler's was to get some simple knobs and I left $200 later without the knobs. But I had some kool stuff. I even needed SOME of it. NEEDED! HAD TO HAVE IT! Yeah! I needed ALL of it. Unfortunately, my budget is now blown for the rest of the year and I don't really have money to buy wood. :-) OK, you're off the hook for now. I need to find a way to stop buying gas. In two days I spent $160 on gas for my cars. $98 for diesel fuel in my pickup and $62 for my car. Ouch. An old buddy of mine was working for a motor home manufacturer where he bought a small water pump. He installed it with a switch in his trunk and had a 120' inlet hose and 6' outlet. His GTO had the gas cap under the license plate. His neighbor, a mean guy, parked his morot home close to my buddy's driveway so the inlet hose reached. When my buddy needed gas to feed the 3 hungry deuces on the 389 motor, he'd visit the neighbor's motor home. I absolutely don't recommend this; instead I recommend installing a locking gas cap on each of your vehicles. I need to do the same thing for my new truck. The old Ford has two, one for each tank. -- The ultimate result of shielding men from the effects of folly is to fill the world with fools. --Herbert Spencer, English Philosopher (1820-1903) |
#18
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Bond. James Bond.
I absolutely don't recommend this; instead I recommend installing a locking gas cap on each of your vehicles. I need to do the same thing for my new truck. The old Ford has two, one for each tank. I'm not sure if locking gas caps are necessary on newer vehicles anymore. The manufacturers have been installing anti-siphon devices in them for 15 or 20 years now. At least Ford (my 1999 pickup) has. I haven't tried my car yet which is a 93 Lexus. But I had a 94 Chrysler New Yorker that took a header (so to speak) just after filling the tank. I tried several things to get my gas out including disconnecting the output line from the fuel pump and running it into a container and then turning on the switch. A couple of other things too. I gave up and called a couple of dealers and told them my situation. They both said that the only way to get the gas out would be to remove the tank. I finally went and spent $15 on a plastic siphon pump (supposedly made for siphoning gas), took the sending unit out of the tank, and siphoned out my $30 (more like $50 at todays prices) worth of gas. Wayne Oh yeah. I did put the sending unit back in. :-) |
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