First time ever I had my oil changed by others, they bungled the drain plug.
2000 Chevy Silverado. It was out of town and too far away to consider
redress.

The plug is either 14mm or 9/16 inch hex head. The head seems to have a
slight taper to it. The rest of the plug is an approximate 1.5 inch
shoulder probably with a gasket. I already tried moving it by chiseling
near the edge.

I suppose my best approach at this time would be to weld on a large nut that
will fit over the hex head. I'll be using wire feed welder. Other than
disconnecting the car battery, is there any other advise before I weld?
This will be my first ever overhead weld.

Thanks,

Ivan Vegvary

On Feb 28, 6:58 pm, "Ivan Vegvary" wrote:
First time ever I had my oil changed by others, they bungled the drain plug.
2000 Chevy Silverado. It was out of town and too far away to consider
redress.

The plug is either 14mm or 9/16 inch hex head. The head seems to have a
slight taper to it. The rest of the plug is an approximate 1.5 inch
shoulder probably with a gasket. I already tried moving it by chiseling
near the edge.

I suppose my best approach at this time would be to weld on a large nut that
will fit over the hex head. I'll be using wire feed welder. Other than
disconnecting the car battery, is there any other advise before I weld?
This will be my first ever overhead weld.

Thanks,

Ivan Vegvary

Might want to disconnect the EGO sensor, too. They get buzzed
real easy. And ground the welder as close as you can to the plug. And
clean off all the oil scum from the pan, or risk a big fire. The nylon
gasket under the plug will probably burn.

Dan

Ivan Vegvary wrote:

First time ever I had my oil changed by others, they bungled the drain plug.
2000 Chevy Silverado. It was out of town and too far away to consider
redress.

The plug is either 14mm or 9/16 inch hex head. The head seems to have a
slight taper to it. The rest of the plug is an approximate 1.5 inch
shoulder probably with a gasket. I already tried moving it by chiseling
near the edge.

I suppose my best approach at this time would be to weld on a large nut that
will fit over the hex head. I'll be using wire feed welder. Other than
disconnecting the car battery, is there any other advise before I weld?
This will be my first ever overhead weld.

Thanks,

Ivan Vegvary

Might try a little application of heat from a MAPP torch and using a
good pair of vise grips first. Shouldn't be that tight or it would have
stripped out.

I use a 15mm box-end wrench to remove the drain plug on my '00
Silverado... for whatever it's worth. It does seem to have a "taper"... not
sure how they came up with that idea?
If there's any way you can pound a 15mm socket onto the plug... that's
what I would try first.
I've welded on both of my '00 Silverados and my '88 step-side without
disconnecting anything... no problems.


"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
news:6FJxj.5993$tH.2093@trndny01...
First time ever I had my oil changed by others, they bungled the drain
plug. 2000 Chevy Silverado. It was out of town and too far away to
consider redress.

The plug is either 14mm or 9/16 inch hex head. The head seems to have a
slight taper to it. The rest of the plug is an approximate 1.5 inch
shoulder probably with a gasket. I already tried moving it by chiseling
near the edge.

I suppose my best approach at this time would be to weld on a large nut
that will fit over the hex head. I'll be using wire feed welder. Other
than disconnecting the car battery, is there any other advise before I
weld? This will be my first ever overhead weld.

Thanks,

Ivan Vegvary

The MIG might be the best way, but one other thought if a socket won't
work, take a shaft collar and bore it on the lathe to fit tightly over
whats left of the head, then tighten the setscrew(s) on the collar on
the head of the plug. You might even consider machining a slight
counter bore on the end of the collar to grab the OD of the plug
flange. Then grab the collar with a pipe wrench or have a nut welded
to it. I've used the TIG/MIG method on several occasions with good
success, but not on a drain plug. Be careful while you are welding, if
the nylon washer melts before you stop the arc, you will have a fire
from oil leaking out and then a much bigger problem...

"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
news:6FJxj.5993$tH.2093@trndny01...
First time ever I had my oil changed by others, they bungled the drain
plug. 2000 Chevy Silverado. It was out of town and too far away to
consider redress.

The plug is either 14mm or 9/16 inch hex head. The head seems to have a
slight taper to it. The rest of the plug is an approximate 1.5 inch
shoulder probably with a gasket. I already tried moving it by chiseling
near the edge.

I suppose my best approach at this time would be to weld on a large nut
that will fit over the hex head. I'll be using wire feed welder. Other
than disconnecting the car battery, is there any other advise before I
weld? This will be my first ever overhead weld.

Thanks,

Ivan Vegvary

I would strike the plug several times really hard on the face with a heavy
hammer to help loosen it and use a tight fitting six-point impact socket
with a strong and long pull handle. Grind the face of the socket if needed
to remove the bevel. Dress the hex on the plug if needed for a good fit.
Then press the socket tightly in place and pull. You will either remove the
plug or the center hex will twist off. I don't think welding on a nut would
be any stronger than the hex itself.

Don Young

On Fri, 29 Feb 2008 01:58:26 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, "Ivan
Vegvary" quickly quoth:

First time ever I had my oil changed by others, they bungled the drain plug.
2000 Chevy Silverado. It was out of town and too far away to consider
redress.

The plug is either 14mm or 9/16 inch hex head. The head seems to have a
slight taper to it. The rest of the plug is an approximate 1.5 inch
shoulder probably with a gasket. I already tried moving it by chiseling
near the edge.

I suppose my best approach at this time would be to weld on a large nut that
will fit over the hex head. I'll be using wire feed welder. Other than
disconnecting the car battery, is there any other advise before I weld?

Yeah, make sure there is no oil anywhere around the outside of the pan
or plug where you're welding. Thin layers ignite pretty quickly. Keep
a fire extingisher handy, too. If you have it, you won't need it.


This will be my first ever overhead weld.

What? You don't have 11" vise grips, pipe wrenches, etc?
Condolences on the little problem.

Suggestion: install a magnetic drain plug in its place once it's out.

--
An idealist believes the short run doesn't count. A cynic believes
the long run doesn't matter. A realist believes that what is done
or left undone in the short run determines the long run.
-- Sydney J. Harris

On Thu, 28 Feb 2008 20:45:21 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm,
"David Courtney" quickly quoth:

I use a 15mm box-end wrench to remove the drain plug on my '00
Silverado... for whatever it's worth. It does seem to have a "taper"... not
sure how they came up with that idea?

It being a Chebby, that question is self-explanatory.

--
An idealist believes the short run doesn't count. A cynic believes
the long run doesn't matter. A realist believes that what is done
or left undone in the short run determines the long run.
-- Sydney J. Harris

In article ,
"Pete C." wrote:

Several Co's including Sears sell a set of OD "easy outs" They are
driven over the rounded nut or bolt and turned off. I have a set but
have never had to use it. Good luck.

Chuck P.

On 2008-02-29, Don Young wrote:

"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
news:6FJxj.5993$tH.2093@trndny01...
First time ever I had my oil changed by others, they bungled the drain
plug. 2000 Chevy Silverado. It was out of town and too far away to
consider redress.

The plug is either 14mm or 9/16 inch hex head. The head seems to have a

mine is 13mm. 2007 Silverado Classic (really a 2006)

slight taper to it. The rest of the plug is an approximate 1.5 inch
shoulder probably with a gasket. I already tried moving it by chiseling
near the edge.

Do you have a good wrench? (maybe 13mm)

Can you try putting it firmly on the bolt's head, and tapping on it
gently with a small hammer or some such, to get the bolt to start turning?

I suppose my best approach at this time would be to weld on a large nut
that will fit over the hex head.

kind of a dangerous thing to do when it is in a possibly aluminum
casing.

I'll be using wire feed welder. Other
than disconnecting the car battery, is there any other advise before I
weld? This will be my first ever overhead weld.

Thanks,

Ivan Vegvary

I would strike the plug several times really hard on the face with a heavy
hammer to help loosen it and use a tight fitting six-point impact socket
with a strong and long pull handle. Grind the face of the socket if needed
to remove the bevel. Dress the hex on the plug if needed for a good fit.
Then press the socket tightly in place and pull. You will either remove the
plug or the center hex will twist off. I don't think welding on a nut would
be any stronger than the hex itself.

Don Young

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 29 Feb 2008 01:58:26 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, "Ivan

Suggestion: install a magnetic drain plug in its place once it's out.

It being a Chebby... the stock plug is magnetic.. ;-}

On Thu, 28 Feb 2008 22:03:43 -0600, "David Courtney"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 29 Feb 2008 01:58:26 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, "Ivan

Suggestion: install a magnetic drain plug in its place once it's out.

It being a Chebby... the stock plug is magnetic.. ;-}

The one on my Poncho isn't. It's long and looks like it should be
magnetic, but if it is it's not strong enough to pick up iron filings
------

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
news:6FJxj.5993$tH.2093@trndny01...
First time ever I had my oil changed by others, they bungled the drain
plug. 2000 Chevy Silverado. It was out of town and too far away to
consider redress.

The plug is either 14mm or 9/16 inch hex head. The head seems to have a
slight taper to it. The rest of the plug is an approximate 1.5 inch
shoulder probably with a gasket. I already tried moving it by chiseling
near the edge.

I suppose my best approach at this time would be to weld on a large nut
that will fit over the hex head. I'll be using wire feed welder. Other
than disconnecting the car battery, is there any other advise before I
weld? This will be my first ever overhead weld.

Thanks,

Ivan Vegvary

When overhead welding with a MIG, increase the wire speed a bit so the
molten globule does not drip back down the wire. Try to keep about a 60
degree angle between wire and work, and not have a 90 degree angle. For the
welding part, that's about all I can add. Clean everything as good as you
can, and that includes paint, oil, dirt, etc. An electric wire brush even
one on a drill motor is good, too.

Steve

"Don Young" wrote:


"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
news:6FJxj.5993$tH.2093@trndny01...

I would strike the plug several times really hard on the face with a heavy
hammer to help loosen it and use a tight fitting six-point impact socket
with a strong and long pull handle. Grind the face of the socket if needed
to remove the bevel. Dress the hex on the plug if needed for a good fit.
Then press the socket tightly in place and pull. You will either remove the
plug or the center hex will twist off. I don't think welding on a nut would
be any stronger than the hex itself.

Don Young


An addition to what Don suggested would be to use a breaker bar with a small
hydraulic jack under it to keep the socket from camming off as you apply
torque to fastener.


Wes

On Thu, 28 Feb 2008 23:56:55 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm,
clare at snyder.on.ca quickly quoth:

On Thu, 28 Feb 2008 22:03:43 -0600, "David Courtney"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
. ..
On Fri, 29 Feb 2008 01:58:26 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, "Ivan

Suggestion: install a magnetic drain plug in its place once it's out.

It being a Chebby... the stock plug is magnetic.. ;-}

The one on my Poncho isn't. It's long and looks like it should be
magnetic, but if it is it's not strong enough to pick up iron filings

Que es este "Poncho", gringo? Early Chebbies had long shanks which
weren't magnetic. (My first job, fresh out of tech school, was at a
Chebby dealership. Starting with the "replace all motor mounts, adding
holddown cables 'cuz they break" campaign, I learned real quickly what
brand of auto -not- to buy. Dad was a Ford man and I saw why.)

--
An idealist believes the short run doesn't count. A cynic believes
the long run doesn't matter. A realist believes that what is done
or left undone in the short run determines the long run.
-- Sydney J. Harris

On Fri, 29 Feb 2008 01:58:26 GMT, "Ivan Vegvary"
wrote:

First time ever I had my oil changed by others, they bungled the drain plug.
2000 Chevy Silverado. It was out of town and too far away to consider
redress.

The plug is either 14mm or 9/16 inch hex head. The head seems to have a
slight taper to it. The rest of the plug is an approximate 1.5 inch
shoulder probably with a gasket. I already tried moving it by chiseling
near the edge.

I suppose my best approach at this time would be to weld on a large nut that
will fit over the hex head. I'll be using wire feed welder. Other than
disconnecting the car battery, is there any other advise before I weld?
This will be my first ever overhead weld.

Thanks,

Ivan Vegvary


Have you tried the application of a 14" pipe wrench to the offending
item?
Carefully sized and held firmly in place with a bottle jack, this
method can remove even the most solidly stuck drainplug.

Just remember..righty tightly lefty loosey.

Gunner, been there, done that.

"Ivan Vegvary" wrote in message
news:6FJxj.5993$tH.2093@trndny01...
First time ever I had my oil changed by others, they bungled the drain
plug. 2000 Chevy Silverado. It was out of town and too far away to
consider redress.
snip
Ivan Vegvary

If it's not leaking you could leave it in place and use one of these
www.mityvac.com/pages/products_fee.asp to change your oil in the future.
they work well, a farmer friend of mine has a similar tool and has been
using it for years (thousands of hours on machines and 100,000 of miles on
autos) he says it saves mileage on his back.

the silver lining---reason for a new tool

YMMV

Andrew

Ivan Vegvary wrote:
First time ever I had my oil changed by others, they bungled the drain plug.
2000 Chevy Silverado. It was out of town and too far away to consider
redress.

The plug is either 14mm or 9/16 inch hex head. The head seems to have a
slight taper to it. The rest of the plug is an approximate 1.5 inch
shoulder probably with a gasket. I already tried moving it by chiseling
near the edge.

I suppose my best approach at this time would be to weld on a large nut that
will fit over the hex head. I'll be using wire feed welder. Other than
disconnecting the car battery, is there any other advise before I weld?
This will be my first ever overhead weld.
Drain the oil first. Oh, that might be hard. Somebody had a
bit on the net about working on a Delorean or something, and
they dented the oil pan. So, they welded a nut on the pan to
pull it out, but that caused an oil/gas vapor explosion inside
the crankcase and blew off both rocker arm covers! So, heating
the outside of the pan might not be such a good idea. No way
could you weld it with gallons of water inside the pan, I don't
know about oil, but I suspect it will be very hard to get it hot
enough to weld without boiling a huge amount of oil on the inside.

Jon

On Feb 29, 12:19*pm, Jon Elson wrote:
Ivan Vegvary wrote:
...
Drain the oil first. *Oh, that might be hard. ...
Jon

How about putting a big tray underneath and removing the pan? Then you
could drill out the plug.

Jim Wilkins

"Gunner" wrote: (clip) Just remember..righty tightly lefty loosey.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Is that for screw threads, or your political philosophy?

"Jim Wilkins" wrote: How about putting a big tray underneath and removing
the pan? Then you
could drill out the plug.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
If I decided to remove the pan, I would start by drilling a hole in the plug
to let out the oil. Actually, what I would do is drill a hole in the pan to
drain it, and then weld it up later. Once the pan is off, if the plug is
hard to remove, you could drill successively larger holes in it, and then
finally clean up the threads with a tap.

On Fri, 29 Feb 2008 06:23:31 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 28 Feb 2008 23:56:55 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm,
clare at snyder.on.ca quickly quoth:

On Thu, 28 Feb 2008 22:03:43 -0600, "David Courtney"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 29 Feb 2008 01:58:26 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, "Ivan

Suggestion: install a magnetic drain plug in its place once it's out.

It being a Chebby... the stock plug is magnetic.. ;-}

The one on my Poncho isn't. It's long and looks like it should be
magnetic, but if it is it's not strong enough to pick up iron filings

Que es este "Poncho", gringo? Early Chebbies had long shanks which
weren't magnetic. (My first job, fresh out of tech school, was at a
Chebby dealership. Starting with the "replace all motor mounts, adding
holddown cables 'cuz they break" campaign, I learned real quickly what
brand of auto -not- to buy. Dad was a Ford man and I saw why.)

Canadian Ponchos had the same problem. You must be about my age,
because I installed a lot of those check cables in my early years
too!!!
I was a "mopar man" in those years.
Since then I've shifted to Toyota, then I owned 4 fords and a Poncho,
with a few quasi-mopars fitted in between (they had Mitsu-****ty
engines in them)
Currently intermittently fixing/driving a 1994 Pontiac Trans Sport 3.8
and a 1996 Mystique 2.5. ANd fixing the daughter's '98 Neon.

Between them I have not been suffering any withdrawal pains from
leavoing the automotive repair business almost 19 years ago.


--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Fri, 29 Feb 2008 15:31:06 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm,
clare at snyder.on.ca quickly quoth:

On Fri, 29 Feb 2008 06:23:31 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

Que es este "Poncho", gringo? Early Chebbies had long shanks which
weren't magnetic. (My first job, fresh out of tech school, was at a
Chebby dealership. Starting with the "replace all motor mounts, adding
holddown cables 'cuz they break" campaign, I learned real quickly what
brand of auto -not- to buy. Dad was a Ford man and I saw why.)

Canadian Ponchos had the same problem. You must be about my age,
because I installed a lot of those check cables in my early years
too!!!

I'm of 1953 vintage. You? I still don't find anything but messicans
and rain gear when I google "poncho". Got a link?


I was a "mopar man" in those years.

Condolences.


Since then I've shifted to Toyota, then I owned 4 fords and a Poncho,
with a few quasi-mopars fitted in between (they had Mitsu-****ty
engines in them)

I'm becoming a Toyota man, too. I love this Tundra. With 1040 miles,
it's still only getting 14.3mpg. sigh I trust it'll do better on the
way to NorCal this summer. The 14.3 is all town driving with the
smaller V-8, the 4.7L.


Currently intermittently fixing/driving a 1994 Pontiac Trans Sport 3.8
and a 1996 Mystique 2.5. ANd fixing the daughter's '98 Neon.

GM? Feh! Take a peek at the last few decades of GMs in the Consumer
Reports. Hondas and Toyotas are all top notch, while GMs are in the
bottom of the league -every- year. Ford, Lexus, and Mercenary Bends
aren't bad.


Between them I have not been suffering any withdrawal pains from
leavoing the automotive repair business almost 19 years ago.

I had fun in the '90 F-150 until last December. I retired from the
automotive repair business in late '85 with an upper back injury.

Hey, I actually got some metalworking done today. I have to get that
damned mill out of the Ford so I'm building a stand for it. (Yes,
Gunner, it's the li'l horizontal I put there from your house a year
and a half ago. That tarp was just about gone but still waterproof.)
big sigh I had a chance to finally test the welds on the HF crane
and they held for the 400+ pounds of the little mill. Bueno.

Anywho, before the incoming storm got blowing so bad I couldn't weld,
I got the top cut, welded together, and drilled for the mill base. I'm
using some beefy 2x1/4" angle. I forgot to buy the 1" angle for the
leg stabilizers, darnit. Maybe Monday.


--
An idealist believes the short run doesn't count. A cynic believes
the long run doesn't matter. A realist believes that what is done
or left undone in the short run determines the long run.
-- Sydney J. Harris

Jon Elson wrote:

Ivan Vegvary wrote:

First time ever I had my oil changed by others, they bungled the drain
plug. 2000 Chevy Silverado. It was out of town and too far away to
consider redress.

The plug is either 14mm or 9/16 inch hex head. The head seems to have
a slight taper to it. The rest of the plug is an approximate 1.5 inch
shoulder probably with a gasket. I already tried moving it by
chiseling near the edge.

I suppose my best approach at this time would be to weld on a large
nut that will fit over the hex head. I'll be using wire feed welder.
Other than disconnecting the car battery, is there any other advise
before I weld? This will be my first ever overhead weld.

Drain the oil first. Oh, that might be hard. Somebody had a bit on the
net about working on a Delorean or something, and they dented the oil
pan. So, they welded a nut on the pan to pull it out, but that caused
an oil/gas vapor explosion inside the crankcase and blew off both rocker
arm covers! So, heating the outside of the pan might not be such a good
idea. No way could you weld it with gallons of water inside the pan, I
don't know about oil, but I suspect it will be very hard to get it hot
enough to weld without boiling a huge amount of oil on the inside.

Jon

Did it take the dent out of the pan?

On Fri, 29 Feb 2008 19:55:52 GMT, "Leo Lichtman"
wrote:


"Gunner" wrote: (clip) Just remember..righty tightly lefty loosey.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Is that for screw threads, or your political philosophy?

Both of course. Most of the sluts I know are Democrats.

Chuckle

Gunner

On Feb 29, 3:02 pm, "Leo Lichtman"
wrote:
"Jim Wilkins" wrote: How about putting a big tray underneath and removing

the pan? Then you
could drill out the plug.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
If I decided to remove the pan, I would start by drilling a hole in the plug
to let out the oil. Actually, what I would do is drill a hole in the pan to
drain it, and then weld it up later. Once the pan is off, if the plug is
hard to remove, you could drill successively larger holes in it, and then
finally clean up the threads with a tap.

Many newer steel pans are made with laminated metal for sound
reduction, two very thin layers of steel with a mastic like material
in between. (AKA Quiet metal) Can be welded, but takes a very light
touch with the TIG, and can make a mess if you are not very careful.
Where I work, we dyno new engines, and often the pans must be fitted
with bungs for oil temp, supply return etc. Often we find it easier
to use a bulkhead type fitting with sealing washers or O rings to get
a seal, rather tthan welding on a fitting. If you tap an empty oil pan
with a hammer, and it sounds totally "dead", it's probably pressed out
of quiet metal. I believe the GM Duramax Diesel uses quiet metal.
Don't know about the GM gas engines.

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 29 Feb 2008 19:55:52 GMT, "Leo Lichtman"
wrote:


"Gunner" wrote: (clip) Just remember..righty tightly lefty loosey.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Is that for screw threads, or your political philosophy?

Both of course. Most of the sluts I know are Democrats.

Chuckle

Gunner

They used to be Republicans, but then they met you. The horror, the
horror...

--
Ed Huntress