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Default Impact wrench torque

I bought what is apparently the most powerful 1/2" drive impact wrench
available IR 2135 with 1000 ftlb or torque and am still finding it
weak. The other day it would not remove the bolts that hold on my
front brake caliper bracket and sometimes it wll not remove lugnuts. I
am using it at 125psi with 50' of 3/8" hose and 1/4" M (milton) quick
connects). Would going to 3/8" qc fittings help at all? I notived a
local tire shop has the air pressure at 150 psi. Is this what is
needed? How come air tools say never to go above 90 psi?
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Default Impact wrench torque

I think there is a decimal point missing. You would not want to put a
1000 ft lbs through a 1/2" drive. A 1000 ft lbs will snap off stuck lugnuts.

mark wrote:
I bought what is apparently the most powerful 1/2" drive impact wrench
available IR 2135 with 1000 ftlb or torque and am still finding it
weak. The other day it would not remove the bolts that hold on my
front brake caliper bracket and sometimes it wll not remove lugnuts. I
am using it at 125psi with 50' of 3/8" hose and 1/4" M (milton) quick
connects). Would going to 3/8" qc fittings help at all? I notived a
local tire shop has the air pressure at 150 psi. Is this what is
needed? How come air tools say never to go above 90 psi?

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Default Impact wrench torque

On Feb 23, 9:12 am, mark wrote:
I bought what is apparently the most powerful 1/2" drive impact wrench
available IR 2135 with 1000 ftlb or torque and am still finding it
weak. The other day it would not remove the bolts that hold on my
front brake caliper bracket and sometimes it wll not remove lugnuts. I
am using it at 125psi with 50' of 3/8" hose and 1/4" M (milton) quick
connects). Would going to 3/8" qc fittings help at all? I notived a
local tire shop has the air pressure at 150 psi. Is this what is
needed? How come air tools say never to go above 90 psi?


the tire shop does not likely run the tools at 150PSI but if the shop
has or had air lifts or air tire changers they might be operating at
150psi. at the tool ports there is likely a secondary regulator to
drop it down to 90 or thereaboutsbut the entire shop can be run off of
the single two stage beast and the branch line for the tools is
regulated down further than the primary machines
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Default Impact wrench torque

In article
,
mark wrote:

I bought what is apparently the most powerful 1/2" drive impact wrench
available IR 2135 with 1000 ftlb of torque and am still finding it
weak.


What torque is your arm rated for? It seems unlikely that any human can
put a 1000# push on a handheld tool that might be 12" in diameter at
most.

Joe Gwinn


The other day it would not remove the bolts that hold on my
front brake caliper bracket and sometimes it wll not remove lugnuts. I
am using it at 125psi with 50' of 3/8" hose and 1/4" M (milton) quick
connects). Would going to 3/8" qc fittings help at all? I notived a
local tire shop has the air pressure at 150 psi. Is this what is
needed? How come air tools say never to go above 90 psi?

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Default Impact wrench torque


"mark" wrote in message
...
I bought what is apparently the most powerful 1/2" drive impact wrench
available IR 2135 with 1000 ftlb or torque and am still finding it
weak. The other day it would not remove the bolts that hold on my
front brake caliper bracket and sometimes it wll not remove lugnuts. I
am using it at 125psi with 50' of 3/8" hose and 1/4" M (milton) quick
connects). Would going to 3/8" qc fittings help at all? I notived a
local tire shop has the air pressure at 150 psi. Is this what is
needed? How come air tools say never to go above 90 psi?


Mark

In theory the bigger QC will help, I am using a IR2132 (700 ft-lb rated)
with 1/4 QC. Other things to check.
1) Is the tool oiled. Air tool oil not only makes them last longer it makes
them work better. I put in a couple of drops every time I connect up the
any of my air tools to the hose.
2) Are you using any extensions? In my experience every extension, swivel,
or adapter I put on the Impact wrench seems to reduce the force applied at
the bolt or nut.
3) Are all controls on the gun set to max? (sorry had to ask) On my IR2132
the power control only seems to affect the tightening function not the
loosening function, your may be different.
4) is you air compressor tank at the bottom of the pressure range? On tough
bolts, I run the impact wrench until the air compressor kicks on, then wait
until it stops and I have max pressure in the tank. The difference in
performance between 90 and 125 PSI is significant.

The only time my IR2132 has not been able move things was a harmonic
balancer bolt, where I needed an extension and a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter to
reach. It struggled on one very rusty set of lug nuts on a truck I bought
that the previous owner appears to run on the beach every weekend. I had to
use the cycle the compressor trick in that case.

Carl Boyd




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Default Impact wrench torque

On Feb 23, 11:56*am, MK1 wrote:
I think there is a decimal point missing. You would not want to put a
1000 ft lbs through a 1/2" drive. A 1000 ft lbs will snap off stuck lugnuts.



mark wrote:
I bought what is apparently the most powerful 1/2" drive impact wrench
available IR 2135 with 1000 ftlb or torque and am still finding it
weak. The other day it would not remove the bolts that hold on my
front brake caliper bracket and sometimes it wll not remove lugnuts. I
am using it at 125psi with 50' of 3/8" hose and 1/4" M (milton) quick
connects). Would going to 3/8" qc fittings help at all? I notived a
local tire shop has the air pressure at 150 psi. Is this what is
needed? How come air tools say never to go above 90 psi?- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Check out the specs

http://www.toolking.com/ingersollrand_ir-2135ti.aspx

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Default Impact wrench torque

On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 11:46:26 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

What torque is your arm rated for? It seems unlikely that any human can
put a 1000# push on a handheld tool that might be 12" in diameter at
most.

==============
There is a reason these are called *IMPACT* guns


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Default Impact wrench torque


"mark" wrote in message
...
I bought what is apparently the most powerful 1/2" drive impact wrench
available IR 2135 with 1000 ftlb or torque and am still finding it
weak. The other day it would not remove the bolts that hold on my
front brake caliper bracket and sometimes it wll not remove lugnuts. I
am using it at 125psi with 50' of 3/8" hose and 1/4" M (milton) quick
connects). Would going to 3/8" qc fittings help at all? I notived a
local tire shop has the air pressure at 150 psi. Is this what is
needed? How come air tools say never to go above 90 psi?



Probaby going to the 3/8 fittings would help some, but you have a high air
consumption tool there and though the pressure provided by your compressor
may be adequate likely the air flow output is not. I have an IR 231 I use
with a 2.5 HP compressor, and have had no trouble with any lugnut or
caliper bolt I've used it on. It works well on the relatively low cfm of my
compressor, much better than the cheapo CH one I had before it. Mind you,
I've used it on nothing bigger than the lugnuts of a 3/4 ton GM van.


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Default Impact wrench torque

On Feb 23, 9:12 am, mark wrote:
I bought what is apparently the most powerful 1/2" drive impact wrench
available IR 2135 with 1000 ftlb or torque and am still finding it
weak. The other day it would not remove the bolts that hold on my
front brake caliper bracket and sometimes it wll not remove lugnuts. I
am using it at 125psi with 50' of 3/8" hose and 1/4" M (milton) quick
connects). Would going to 3/8" qc fittings help at all? I notived a
local tire shop has the air pressure at 150 psi. Is this what is
needed? How come air tools say never to go above 90 psi?


http://www.irtools.com/IS/category.aspx-en-2844

someone sold you an impact with a marketing torque value the 2135's
top out at about 500 foot pounds in forward and 700 in reverse and
that will be in ideal conditions. and ideal conditions mean that your
arm doesnt twist on the impact blow
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Default Impact wrench torque

What is the difference between Nut Busting torque and traditional
torque?
I have an older I/R impact wrench that will break off 1/2 bolts all
day long on 125psi. Gotta be carefull with the one I got.
I think you need to feed it more air. larger air hose and larger
fittings, shorter air hose also.


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On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 17:16:19 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, Dan@
(Dan ) quickly quoth:

What is the difference between Nut Busting torque and traditional
torque?


Traditional torque is measured with clean, lightly lubed threads. Nut
busting torque is that which will break the corrosion of a frozen nut
and bolt/stud.

Back in my wrenchin' days, I learned to try tightening before
loosening a seemingly stuck combo. That often proved to be the winning
solution. For the oddly stubborn lots, the pipe extension on a good
breaker bar would nearly always work. For the truly stubborn bitch,
nothing worked and the stud broke with the nut intact. Sometimes
that's truly OK. Then draw in a new stud using moly grease and a pair
of washers, with the new lug nut backwards, the flat toward the
washers. Piece o' cake, duck soup.


I have an older I/R impact wrench that will break off 1/2 bolts all
day long on 125psi. Gotta be carefull with the one I got.
I think you need to feed it more air. larger air hose and larger
fittings, shorter air hose also.


Ditto. It sounds as if the hefty tool is being starved so it's not
putting out the torque it's capable of giving.

---
Every moment is a golden one
for him who has the vision to recognize it as such.
-- Henry Miller
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Default Impact wrench torque

On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 11:03:19 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm, F.
George McDuffee quickly quoth:

On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 11:46:26 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

What torque is your arm rated for? It seems unlikely that any human can
put a 1000# push on a handheld tool that might be 12" in diameter at
most.

==============
There is a reason these are called *IMPACT* guns


Yabbut, methinks the 1,000# figure is calculated using Searz Foot
Pounds. I doubt a 1/2" gun would do better than 300, with a 3/4 or 1"
drive capable of doing up to 1k.

---
Every moment is a golden one
for him who has the vision to recognize it as such.
-- Henry Miller
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Default Impact wrench torque

mark wrote:
I bought what is apparently the most powerful 1/2" drive impact wrench
available IR 2135 with 1000 ftlb or torque and am still finding it
weak. The other day it would not remove the bolts that hold on my
front brake caliper bracket and sometimes it wll not remove lugnuts. I
am using it at 125psi with 50' of 3/8" hose and 1/4" M (milton) quick
connects). Would going to 3/8" qc fittings help at all? I notived a
local tire shop has the air pressure at 150 psi. Is this what is
needed? How come air tools say never to go above 90 psi?



It may sound stupid, but check the reverse lever/button. I have had
occassions where my impact driver wouldn't work properly only to find
that the reverse lever wasn't all the way over and air was leaking.
With all the other racket you couldn't hear it.

Jim
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Default Impact wrench torque

Brent, an impact wrench doesn't impart a reverse moment to your arm or
hand that equals the torque being applied to the fastener. It's the
hammering that applies the elevated torque.
Personally I only use the impact wrench rarely. I use my torque
wrenches a lot. I torque a lot of turbine casing bolting and we heat
and tension most of them. It is a very interesting process.

someone sold you an impact with a marketing torque value the 2135's
top out at about 500 foot pounds in forward and 700 in reverse and
that will be in ideal conditions. and ideal conditions mean that your
arm doesnt twist on the impact blow


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Default Impact wrench torque

mark wrote:
I bought what is apparently the most powerful 1/2" drive impact wrench
available IR 2135 with 1000 ftlb or torque and am still finding it
weak. The other day it would not remove the bolts that hold on my
front brake caliper bracket and sometimes it wll not remove lugnuts. I
am using it at 125psi with 50' of 3/8" hose and 1/4" M (milton) quick
connects). Would going to 3/8" qc fittings help at all? I notived a
local tire shop has the air pressure at 150 psi. Is this what is
needed? How come air tools say never to go above 90 psi?


I was just looking at the specs for the 2135TiMAX and noticed that the
specs say minimum hose size is 3/8", but the air inlet is only 1/4".
Air consumption is listed as 5 cfm, but it does not give an air pressure.

Anyway, if the air inlet is 1/4", why would it help to put on 3/8" qc?

Wayne


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Default Impact wrench torque

"Brent" wrote in message
...


the tire shop does not likely run the tools at 150PSI but if the shop
has or had air lifts or air tire changers they might be operating at
150psi. at the tool ports there is likely a secondary regulator to
drop it down to 90 or thereaboutsbut the entire shop can be run off of
the single two stage beast and the branch line for the tools is
regulated down further than the primary machines


Don't bet on that!
I worked at a shop years back and all the air was at 175 PSI. You had a
tough time even connecting a standard QD. You sure did not want to get your
hand stuck between the handle of an air ratchet and the engine block!
Greg

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"NoOne N Particular" wrote: (clip)Anyway, if the air inlet is 1/4", why
would it help to put on 3/8" qc?
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1.) You are aware that pipe sizes and hose sizes are not directly
convertible?
B.) The inlet to the tool is not as long as a hose so its size is not as
critical.


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"NoOne N Particular" wrote in message
news


I was just looking at the specs for the 2135TiMAX and noticed that the
specs say minimum hose size is 3/8", but the air inlet is only 1/4". Air
consumption is listed as 5 cfm, but it does not give an air pressure.

Anyway, if the air inlet is 1/4", why would it help to put on 3/8" qc?

Wayne


The spec give average air consumption. It is like rating duty cycle on a
welder. In reality the actual consumption may be two three times as much.
A QD is slightly restrictive. The 1/4" inlet will probably flow more than
the 1/4" QD will. I would try the impact with a larger hose and QD, or a
much shorter hose. One thing you can do is to see what the pressure drop is
at the tool fitting. Add a air pressure gauge at the tool and see what it
reads while using the tool. If it drops very little, maybe 5 PSI, your hose
and fittings are good. If it drop say 15-20 PSI you need more air, bigger
hose!
Greg

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On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 09:52:17 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 11:03:19 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm, F.
George McDuffee quickly quoth:

On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 11:46:26 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

What torque is your arm rated for? It seems unlikely that any human can
put a 1000# push on a handheld tool that might be 12" in diameter at
most.

==============
There is a reason these are called *IMPACT* guns


Yabbut, methinks the 1,000# figure is calculated using Searz Foot
Pounds. I doubt a 1/2" gun would do better than 300, with a 3/4 or 1"
drive capable of doing up to 1k.

=================
From limited experience but having done it, a 1/2 inch gun on
90-100 PSI w/ adequate flow will shear off a "normal" automotive
lugnut/stud (or lug bolt) if the nut jams or rusts on.


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On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 06:12:46 -0800 (PST), mark
wrote:

I bought what is apparently the most powerful 1/2" drive impact wrench
available IR 2135 with 1000 ftlb or torque and am still finding it
weak. The other day it would not remove the bolts that hold on my
front brake caliper bracket and sometimes it wll not remove lugnuts. I
am using it at 125psi with 50' of 3/8" hose and 1/4" M (milton) quick
connects). Would going to 3/8" qc fittings help at all? I notived a
local tire shop has the air pressure at 150 psi. Is this what is
needed? How come air tools say never to go above 90 psi?


When you are trying to push high power through air tools, the
resistance of the air line and couplers becomes critically important.
It's just like trying to run a 1000 HP dragster, but feed it fuel with
a stock VW Bug fuel pump - it just can't flow fast enough.

Do an experiment - try moving the compressor close to the car, or
vice versa. Take all the couplings out of the system - put the 3/8"
hose straight into the gun, and the other end into a 3/8 full-flow
ball valve and right into the air receiver tank.

That should be nearly free (no parts) and prove the problem.

If it does, that's the time to upgrade your air piping in the shop
to get from the tank to your workplace with a big pipe and as little
extra crap in the way as you can.

3/4" Type K extra-heavy or Type L heavy copper pipe (Not M) with as
few elbows as possible save for drip legs on each drop - your tee goes
UP from the main line before going over to the wall and down. (The
water stays in the main line, which is sloped to a drain valve.) 1/2"
or better high-flow filter-regulator-lubricator (rated for the CFM
flow of the wrench with a cushion), 1/2" QD couplings, 1/2" hoses.

* * * * * * * *

WARNING: DO NOT USE PVC PLASTIC PIPE FOR COMPRESSED AIR!! EVER!!
Even as a temporary system or for experimenting, as it tends to get
left in service far longer than intended. Hit or twist PVC pipe under
pressure and it shatters and goes "Boom!" People get hit by the
flying shrapnel and can be hurt, blinded, or occasionally killed.

* * * * * * * *

If you can't do this, consider a 5-gallon or better receiver tank as
an accumulator right next to the workplace and the impact wrench - put
the biggest hose you can from the wrench to the accumulator, and then
plumb that to your regular compressor. It will give you a burst of
full flow and full power to break the nuts loose, then you'll hit the
existing air system restrictions.

And even if you have a little "2 Sears Horsepower" portable air
compressor, throw as much air receiver tank gallonage on as you can.
The impact only needs 5 seconds of full-flow air to get that nut
moving - so what if it takes 15 minutes for the compressor to build it
back up...

The tools usually say 90 PSI Max because the internal pieces of the
hammers and anvils for the impact system start breaking if you use too
much force. They will take being used with a moderate overpressure
for a while, but do it constantly and you will see internal failures
far before their time.

-- Bruce --



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Default Impact wrench torque


"mark" wrote in message
...
I bought what is apparently the most powerful 1/2" drive impact wrench
available IR 2135 with 1000 ftlb or torque and am still finding it
weak. The other day it would not remove the bolts that hold on my
front brake caliper bracket and sometimes it wll not remove lugnuts. I
am using it at 125psi with 50' of 3/8" hose and 1/4" M (milton) quick
connects). Would going to 3/8" qc fittings help at all? I notived a
local tire shop has the air pressure at 150 psi. Is this what is
needed? How come air tools say never to go above 90 psi?


When my impact seems weak I give it a shot of air tool oil. It works
wonders.
Steve


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Default Impact wrench torque

We ran a steam pump this week on a steam hose. We were connected to
110 psi steam manifold then ran a 50' 3/4" steam hose. The
conglomeration of fittings we came up with was a mixture of 3/4" and
1" fittings going up and down in size. Three elbows I think. With all
the vales wide open, we only had 40 psi at the little turbine. We just
wanted to run it a little and it ran fine, but there sure was a lot of
pressure drop there.
In theory, if you ran long enough 1/4" hoses, the gun wouldn't run at
all. Use big hose and then a short whip, 6' of 3/8" at the gun will
help tremendously. Of course, 1/2" hose is expensive.
We ran a steam pump this week on a steam hose. We were connected to
110 psi steam manifold then ran a 50' 3/4" steam hose. The
conglomeration of fittings we came up with was a mixture of 3/4" and
1" fittings going up and down in size. Three elbows I think. With all
the vales wide open, we only had 40 psi at the little turbine. We just
wanted to run it a little and it ran fine, but there sure was a lot of
pressure drop there.
In theory, if you ran long enough 1/4" hoses, the gun wouldn't run at
all. Use big hose and then a short whip, 6' of 3/8" at the gun will
help tremendously. Of course, 1/2" hose is expensive.

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Default Impact wrench torque


"Bruce L. Bergman" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 06:12:46 -0800 (PST), mark
wrote:

I bought what is apparently the most powerful 1/2" drive impact wrench
available IR 2135 with 1000 ftlb or torque and am still finding it
weak. The other day it would not remove the bolts that hold on my
front brake caliper bracket and sometimes it wll not remove lugnuts. I
am using it at 125psi with 50' of 3/8" hose and 1/4" M (milton) quick
connects). Would going to 3/8" qc fittings help at all? I notived a
local tire shop has the air pressure at 150 psi. Is this what is
needed? How come air tools say never to go above 90 psi?



If you can't do this, consider a 5-gallon or better receiver tank as
an accumulator right next to the workplace and the impact wrench - put
the biggest hose you can from the wrench to the accumulator, and then
plumb that to your regular compressor. It will give you a burst of
full flow and full power to break the nuts loose, then you'll hit the
existing air system restrictions.


-- Bruce --


I use a small air brake tank salvaged from a military water buffalo for just
that. The tank is something like 6" in diameter and 8" long with ports on
each bell end. I have quick disconnects on each end and the air wrench
attaches right to the tank. I use this setup on my 3/4" impact and it makes
ALL the difference. With this setup I don't have to upgrade my 3/8" air
line for the 3/4" impact wrench. It's kinda neat listening to the tank
refill after each trigger pull, which proves that the air line is undersized
/ overly restricted for the amount of air being demanded.


Shawn


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On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 06:12:46 -0800 (PST), mark
wrote:

I bought what is apparently the most powerful 1/2" drive impact wrench
available IR 2135 with 1000 ftlb or torque and am still finding it
weak. The other day it would not remove the bolts that hold on my
front brake caliper bracket and sometimes it wll not remove lugnuts. I
am using it at 125psi with 50' of 3/8" hose and 1/4" M (milton) quick
connects). Would going to 3/8" qc fittings help at all? I notived a
local tire shop has the air pressure at 150 psi. Is this what is
needed? How come air tools say never to go above 90 psi?



On that IR impact, 3/8 fittings and 150psi WILL help. So will 1/2"
hose at that length. The 2135 is a decent impact, but I still like my
OLD CP better (can't remember for sure but I think it is a 734?) It is
slower than the IR but I have found it more effective, while braking
fewer studs. Just my experience.

--
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On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 08:37:42 -0800 (PST), Brent
wrote:

On Feb 23, 9:12 am, mark wrote:
I bought what is apparently the most powerful 1/2" drive impact wrench
available IR 2135 with 1000 ftlb or torque and am still finding it
weak. The other day it would not remove the bolts that hold on my
front brake caliper bracket and sometimes it wll not remove lugnuts. I
am using it at 125psi with 50' of 3/8" hose and 1/4" M (milton) quick
connects). Would going to 3/8" qc fittings help at all? I notived a
local tire shop has the air pressure at 150 psi. Is this what is
needed? How come air tools say never to go above 90 psi?


the tire shop does not likely run the tools at 150PSI but if the shop
has or had air lifts or air tire changers they might be operating at
150psi. at the tool ports there is likely a secondary regulator to
drop it down to 90 or thereaboutsbut the entire shop can be run off of
the single two stage beast and the branch line for the tools is
regulated down further than the primary machines



I never reduced the pressure on my impacts from the 150 shop line
pressure. Mine DID have a "power" adjustment that allowed me to dial
the wrench back for assembling, and dial it up for dissassembling.

The 1000 ft lb spec is instantanious torque, not average or mean
torque, and the high shock torque is what an "IMPACT" wrench is all
about. And yes, if a 1/2" wheel stud is severely rusted to the nut,
the impact WILL twist off the stud. So you punch it out and put in a
new one, with a new nut. That's how the job has to be done sometimes.

--
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Default Impact wrench torque

On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 11:46:26 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

In article
,
mark wrote:

I bought what is apparently the most powerful 1/2" drive impact wrench
available IR 2135 with 1000 ftlb of torque and am still finding it
weak.


What torque is your arm rated for? It seems unlikely that any human can
put a 1000# push on a handheld tool that might be 12" in diameter at
most.

Joe Gwinn


The mass of the wrench absorbs the "instantanious torque" or "impact".
Mean torque, or average torque, may be as little as 100-150 ft lbs and
still have a 1000 ft lb rating - without stretching things at all (or
very little)


The other day it would not remove the bolts that hold on my
front brake caliper bracket and sometimes it wll not remove lugnuts. I
am using it at 125psi with 50' of 3/8" hose and 1/4" M (milton) quick
connects). Would going to 3/8" qc fittings help at all? I notived a
local tire shop has the air pressure at 150 psi. Is this what is
needed? How come air tools say never to go above 90 psi?



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Default Impact wrench torque

On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 09:52:17 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 11:03:19 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm, F.
George McDuffee quickly quoth:

On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 11:46:26 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

What torque is your arm rated for? It seems unlikely that any human can
put a 1000# push on a handheld tool that might be 12" in diameter at
most.

==============
There is a reason these are called *IMPACT* guns


Yabbut, methinks the 1,000# figure is calculated using Searz Foot
Pounds. I doubt a 1/2" gun would do better than 300, with a 3/4 or 1"
drive capable of doing up to 1k.


Yabbut, yathinks wrong.
---
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for him who has the vision to recognize it as such.
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Default Impact wrench torque

bernouli equations will give you the formal answer to your query - a less
formal answer is 'pressure drop"



"NoOne N Particular" wrote in message
news
mark wrote:
I bought what is apparently the most powerful 1/2" drive impact wrench
available IR 2135 with 1000 ftlb or torque and am still finding it
weak. The other day it would not remove the bolts that hold on my
front brake caliper bracket and sometimes it wll not remove lugnuts. I
am using it at 125psi with 50' of 3/8" hose and 1/4" M (milton) quick
connects). Would going to 3/8" qc fittings help at all? I notived a
local tire shop has the air pressure at 150 psi. Is this what is
needed? How come air tools say never to go above 90 psi?


I was just looking at the specs for the 2135TiMAX and noticed that the
specs say minimum hose size is 3/8", but the air inlet is only 1/4". Air
consumption is listed as 5 cfm, but it does not give an air pressure.

Anyway, if the air inlet is 1/4", why would it help to put on 3/8" qc?

Wayne




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Default Impact wrench torque

NoOne N Particular writes:

I was just looking at the specs for the 2135TiMAX and noticed that the
specs say minimum hose size is 3/8", but the air inlet is only
1/4". Air consumption is listed as 5 cfm, but it does not give an air
pressure.

Anyway, if the air inlet is 1/4", why would it help to put on 3/8" qc?


Because you're having a lot of air available upstream of a relatively
short section that's only 1/4".
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Default Impact wrench torque

On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 21:07:01 -0500, with neither quill nor qualm,
clare at snyder.on.ca quickly quoth:

On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 09:52:17 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:


Yabbut, methinks the 1,000# figure is calculated using Searz Foot
Pounds. I doubt a 1/2" gun would do better than 300, with a 3/4 or 1"
drive capable of doing up to 1k.


Yabbut, yathinks wrong.


That was deep and enlightening. snort

OK, checking online, CP (my recollection of the finest product) shows
their top of the line 1/2" impact gun, the CP 749-2, putting out 625
ft# of torque. That amazes me.

I still think the 1000# is a bunch of marketing ****. Air gun
technology doesn't appear to have changed much since I was using them
on a daily basis.

---
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for him who has the vision to recognize it as such.
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Default Impact wrench torque

In article ,
clare at snyder.on.ca wrote:

On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 11:46:26 -0500, Joseph Gwinn
wrote:

In article
,
mark wrote:

I bought what is apparently the most powerful 1/2" drive impact wrench
available IR 2135 with 1000 ftlb of torque and am still finding it
weak.


What torque is your arm rated for? It seems unlikely that any human can
put a 1000# push on a handheld tool that might be 12" in diameter at
most.

Joe Gwinn


The mass of the wrench absorbs the "instantanious torque" or "impact".
Mean torque, or average torque, may be as little as 100-150 ft lbs and
still have a 1000 ft lb rating - without stretching things at all (or
very little)


OK, makes sense. Same theory as the traditional striking wrenches. But
the wrench must be pretty heavy to achieve such a number.

But I still suspect that the 1000# may be a better measure of their
marketing versus their impact wrenches. The instantaneous peak torque
one will achieve will depend on how stiff the nut assembly in question
is. I assume that this is measured while trying to twist a piece of hex
stock welded to an anvil-sized hunk of iron. A better measure might be
the rotational inertia of the hammer assembly plus the rotational speed
at impact, combined into the angular momentum at impact. Such a measure
would be more useful in deciding the relative strength of an impact
wrench.

Hmm. The above metric won't work. A very light hammer moving fast will
have a large angular momentum, but will be ineffectual in breaking stuck
fasteners loose - the hammer will just bounce. The surface may become
battered, but the nut won't turn. The hammer must be heavy, just as
when using a handheld hammer to force something apart by banging on it.

Or a handheld hammer-activated impact wrench. I always used at least a
two-pound hammer, sometimes five pound. The objective was to use a
sufficiently large hammer that one blow would reliably do the job. This
is how I got aluminum screws out of aluminum castings without damage, to
get the alternator cover off of 1970s Japanese bikes. You got one
chance before the #2 phillips screw was mangled beyond hope. They came
loose with a very loud Crack!

This requires some thought. There must be a metric that captures the
effect of hammer weight on effectiveness.

Joe Gwinn


The other day it would not remove the bolts that hold on my
front brake caliper bracket and sometimes it wll not remove lugnuts. I
am using it at 125psi with 50' of 3/8" hose and 1/4" M (milton) quick
connects). Would going to 3/8" qc fittings help at all? I notived a
local tire shop has the air pressure at 150 psi. Is this what is
needed? How come air tools say never to go above 90 psi?

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Default Impact wrench torque

We use an IR 2135 to remove the center lug nut on a Porsche. These get
torqued to 340 foot pounds and left for a while, I figure breakaway
torque is around 500 foot pounds for removal. It won't do that on the
little compressor even if I charge it up to full 120 psi before pulling
the trigger. We usually do that job off of a N2 bottle regulated at 150
psi. Even then it takes a few moments to see it start to loosen and move.

I suspect you need larger hoses. I have a 3" cutoff tool that runs fine
in the shop, does not work at all well in the garage even though the
only difference is 50' of 1/2" ID copper pipe.

mark wrote:
I bought what is apparently the most powerful 1/2" drive impact wrench
available IR 2135 with 1000 ftlb or torque and am still finding it
weak. The other day it would not remove the bolts that hold on my
front brake caliper bracket and sometimes it wll not remove lugnuts. I
am using it at 125psi with 50' of 3/8" hose and 1/4" M (milton) quick
connects). Would going to 3/8" qc fittings help at all? I notived a
local tire shop has the air pressure at 150 psi. Is this what is
needed? How come air tools say never to go above 90 psi?

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Default Impact wrench torque

On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 21:00:11 -0500, clare at snyder.on.ca wrote:

I never reduced the pressure on my impacts from the 150 shop line
pressure. Mine DID have a "power" adjustment that allowed me to dial
the wrench back for assembling, and dial it up for dissassembling.


/RHETORICAL
How do you get accurate torque when assembling with an impact wrench?

The wheel nuts on my car require 81lb-ft of torque (put the wheels on today
after a brake job) they assemble and disassemble easily by hand. A shop uses
an impact wrench on them and they don't until they've undone them and re-done
them with a torque wrench! The crankshaft pulley needs 200lb-ft. Also a manual
job, just use a longer handle.


I can understand the use of an impact wrench for undoing truck wheel nuts, but
with anything less than 400 lb-ft I would question the use of power tools for
assembly. Much above that and I would be using a crane and balance. For large
bolts, I would be expecting to use either hydraulic bolts or heated bolts and
a micrometer, per the drawings.
/RHETORICAL


Am I being excessively picky?


Mark Rand
RTFM
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Default Impact wrench torque

The GOOD shops have a torque stick instead of an extension bar, it
breaks loose at a specified (but somewhat inaccurate) measurement. Then
torque it up properly by hand with a calibrated torque wrench. The
mediocre shops use the torque stick alone. The bad shops have a bubble
gum brain impact wrench jockey pull the trigger until it is "good and tight"

I don't look down on a shop that uses an impact wrench for assembly as
long as they had start the bolts and had torque them afterward. It does
save a lot of time when doing a lot of similar bolts eg on the engine.

Mark Rand wrote:
On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 21:00:11 -0500, clare at snyder.on.ca wrote:

I never reduced the pressure on my impacts from the 150 shop line
pressure. Mine DID have a "power" adjustment that allowed me to dial
the wrench back for assembling, and dial it up for dissassembling.


/RHETORICAL
How do you get accurate torque when assembling with an impact wrench?

The wheel nuts on my car require 81lb-ft of torque (put the wheels on today
after a brake job) they assemble and disassemble easily by hand. A shop uses
an impact wrench on them and they don't until they've undone them and re-done
them with a torque wrench! The crankshaft pulley needs 200lb-ft. Also a manual
job, just use a longer handle.


I can understand the use of an impact wrench for undoing truck wheel nuts, but
with anything less than 400 lb-ft I would question the use of power tools for
assembly. Much above that and I would be using a crane and balance. For large
bolts, I would be expecting to use either hydraulic bolts or heated bolts and
a micrometer, per the drawings.
/RHETORICAL


Am I being excessively picky?


Mark Rand
RTFM

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Default Impact wrench torque

On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 21:35:30 +0000, Mark Rand
wrote:

On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 21:00:11 -0500, clare at snyder.on.ca wrote:

I never reduced the pressure on my impacts from the 150 shop line
pressure. Mine DID have a "power" adjustment that allowed me to dial
the wrench back for assembling, and dial it up for dissassembling.


/RHETORICAL
How do you get accurate torque when assembling with an impact wrench?

The wheel nuts on my car require 81lb-ft of torque (put the wheels on today
after a brake job) they assemble and disassemble easily by hand. A shop uses
an impact wrench on them and they don't until they've undone them and re-done
them with a torque wrench! The crankshaft pulley needs 200lb-ft. Also a manual
job, just use a longer handle.


I can understand the use of an impact wrench for undoing truck wheel nuts, but
with anything less than 400 lb-ft I would question the use of power tools for
assembly. Much above that and I would be using a crane and balance. For large
bolts, I would be expecting to use either hydraulic bolts or heated bolts and
a micrometer, per the drawings.
/RHETORICAL


Am I being excessively picky?


Mark Rand
RTFM

Assembly with an impact is strictly a "speed" thing.
With the proper "torque stick" and the proper technique, it is
possible to "torque" a wheel nut accurately with an impact
wrench(within less than 10%)
I have, for decades, made a practice of putting the wheels on with the
impact wrench, then going around and checking the torque on ALL the
studs with the torque wrench before letting the car out of the shop.

I generally check my own vehicles again after 50-100 miles of driving.

On truck wheel nuts a "geared" torque wrench is often used (planetary
drive multiplier)

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Default Impact wrench torque

On 2008-02-24, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
clare at snyder.on.ca wrote:


[ ... ]

The mass of the wrench absorbs the "instantanious torque" or "impact".
Mean torque, or average torque, may be as little as 100-150 ft lbs and
still have a 1000 ft lb rating - without stretching things at all (or
very little)


OK, makes sense. Same theory as the traditional striking wrenches. But
the wrench must be pretty heavy to achieve such a number.


Another factor is that the "wrench" which is struck benefits
from being light, as long as it is sufficiently rigid. IIRC, these were
advertised as being titanium, which is light but rigid. So make the
part which is struck to transmit torque to the actual wrench socket as
light as possible (titanium), and the hammer part as massive as possible
(tungsten?) for maximum transfer of energy to the nut.

Enjoy,
DoN.

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Default Impact wrench torque


clare at snyder.on.ca wrote in message
...
On Sun, 24 Feb 2008 21:35:30 +0000, Mark Rand
wrote:

On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 21:00:11 -0500, clare at snyder.on.ca wrote:

I never reduced the pressure on my impacts from the 150 shop line
pressure. Mine DID have a "power" adjustment that allowed me to dial
the wrench back for assembling, and dial it up for dissassembling.


/RHETORICAL
How do you get accurate torque when assembling with an impact wrench?

The wheel nuts on my car require 81lb-ft of torque (put the wheels on
today
after a brake job) they assemble and disassemble easily by hand. A shop
uses
an impact wrench on them and they don't until they've undone them and
re-done
them with a torque wrench! The crankshaft pulley needs 200lb-ft. Also a
manual
job, just use a longer handle.


I can understand the use of an impact wrench for undoing truck wheel nuts,
but
with anything less than 400 lb-ft I would question the use of power tools
for
assembly. Much above that and I would be using a crane and balance. For
large
bolts, I would be expecting to use either hydraulic bolts or heated bolts
and
a micrometer, per the drawings.
/RHETORICAL


Am I being excessively picky?


Mark Rand
RTFM

Assembly with an impact is strictly a "speed" thing.
With the proper "torque stick" and the proper technique, it is
possible to "torque" a wheel nut accurately with an impact
wrench(within less than 10%)
I have, for decades, made a practice of putting the wheels on with the
impact wrench, then going around and checking the torque on ALL the
studs with the torque wrench before letting the car out of the shop.

I generally check my own vehicles again after 50-100 miles of driving.

On truck wheel nuts a "geared" torque wrench is often used (planetary
drive multiplier)

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I have seen shops use a torque wrench after an impact wrench but they only
checked that the torque wrench would click in the tightening direction. In
other words, they did not check that the lugs might already be too tight
after using the impact wrench.

Effective use of a torque wrench in loosening tight fittings requires that
the whole assembly be very rigid. It takes only a short extension or a thin
socket to reduce the power significantly.

Don Young


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Default Impact wrench torque


"RoyJ" wrote in message
...
We use an IR 2135 to remove the center lug nut on a Porsche. These get
torqued to 340 foot pounds and left for a while, I figure breakaway torque
is around 500 foot pounds for removal. It won't do that on the little
compressor even if I charge it up to full 120 psi before pulling the
trigger. We usually do that job off of a N2 bottle regulated at 150 psi.
Even then it takes a few moments to see it start to loosen and move.

I suspect you need larger hoses. I have a 3" cutoff tool that runs fine in
the shop, does not work at all well in the garage even though the only
difference is 50' of 1/2" ID copper pipe.


when I pull those wheel nuts off my 356, I use a 3/4 inch breaker bar and a
10 ft length of 1 inch pipe -the pipe will usually bend but it takes it off
nicely - I suspect more than 500 ft/lbs. I had one of those nuts unscrew
once, shearing the cotter and working it into the threads - this allowed the
wheel to separate from the car, taking the brake drum with it - I was going
down hill at the time and trailed an impressive rooster tail of sparks as
the shock tower ground down on the freeway - never did figure out why it was
able to shear the cotter pin, but I will always remember the feeling of
torque steer that preceeded the final separation by about 5 seconds. Oh,
and with the old 356, when the rear wheel goes you have no brakes (single
hydraulic system), no emergency brake (mechanical differential) and no way
to downshift to slow down (because of the differential) so you just get to
ride it out - it's quite a feeling.



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Default Impact wrench torque

Don Young wrote:


I have seen shops use a torque wrench after an impact wrench but they only
checked that the torque wrench would click in the tightening direction. In
other words, they did not check that the lugs might already be too tight
after using the impact wrench.

Effective use of a torque wrench in loosening tight fittings requires that
the whole assembly be very rigid. It takes only a short extension or a thin
socket to reduce the power significantly.

Don Young


There are "calibrated" extensions, too, that limit the torque by being
of different diameters. Harbour freight probably sells them in the US,
but I know that Princess Auto in Canada does.

Cheers
Trevor Jones

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