Burning project of the moment is a dead fuel gauge sys on the ol'
farm tractor. 70's vintage IHC lots of german made cast iron for
those appreciating that type of stuff.. Anyhow I condemened the
origional components and with a Napa gauge and sending unit kit
I can get it to work ok but I get a higher reading on the gauge then
is indicated..IOW the gauge reads 1/2 full when it should read empty.

Any tricks to get around this that anyone like to share? Some sort
of E magic or is it a case of throw away and try again.. I did do
some neat metalworking to replicate the OEM sender....hate to waste
that.. ED

On Thu, 21 Feb 2008 07:13:52 -0700, ED
wrote:

Burning project of the moment is a dead fuel gauge sys on the ol'
farm tractor. 70's vintage IHC lots of german made cast iron for
those appreciating that type of stuff.. Anyhow I condemened the
origional components and with a Napa gauge and sending unit kit
I can get it to work ok but I get a higher reading on the gauge then
is indicated..IOW the gauge reads 1/2 full when it should read empty.

Any tricks to get around this that anyone like to share? Some sort
of E magic or is it a case of throw away and try again.. I did do
some neat metalworking to replicate the OEM sender....hate to waste
that.. ED

Even if you got both the sender and gauge from NAPA on the same
order, somebody botched it reading the catalog and they didn't give
you a matched set - go back and raise a ruckus if necessary.

There are a dozen different resistance range systems for gas gauges,
including from memory the most popular 260-0 ohms, 72-0 ohms, 0-90
ohms (backwards - 0 at full 90 at empty)...

The gauge companies make multiple identical-looking gauges for the
various systems, only the part numbers are different - so you can put
a Stewart-Warner or VDO cluster in a car with a GM or Chrysler or
Toyota or Mercedes (or whatever) factory sender without dropping the
tank and changing the sender. Or senders for dual tanks.

If it's an aftermarket 2-1/8" style gauge it's probably a lot easier
to change the gauge end, once you figure out the one you really need.
If you are trying to use a factory gauge movement in an instrument
cluster, then you have to change to the right sender range.

Never heard of any "magic bullets" to fix that mismatch, and they
would probably cost more than the right gauge movement.

-- Bruce --

On Thu, 21 Feb 2008 08:07:12 -0800, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:

On Thu, 21 Feb 2008 07:13:52 -0700, ED
wrote:




Many thanks, I was looking over at Egauges maybe should have gone
there instead. , The box says its a 240-33 resistance. It is a
standard 2 1/8 style.


In a past life I used to pull the needle off and reset it on Toyotas
to get them to read right....never had one comeback dealer tech
trick.. ED

It's simply a matter of extended empty angle VS full tank angle of the
float rod. If the sender and gauge are matched, You just adjust/modify
the float length to either match the original(Which may or may not be
correct...). Better to eyeball the installed height of the sender base
to the full level of the fuel, and go from there. The object is to have
the gauge read accurately towards empty. If you can't configure it both
ways for some reason, it's no biggy if it stays on full for 1/4 tank,
and then accurately reads down to empty from there. Being sold by Napa,
I suspect the gauge and sender are not matched from your description. If
so, tweaking the dimensions won't help.
JR
Dweller in the cellar


ED wrote:




Burning project of the moment is a dead fuel gauge sys on the ol'
farm tractor. 70's vintage IHC lots of german made cast iron for
those appreciating that type of stuff.. Anyhow I condemened the
origional components and with a Napa gauge and sending unit kit
I can get it to work ok but I get a higher reading on the gauge then
is indicated..IOW the gauge reads 1/2 full when it should read empty.

Any tricks to get around this that anyone like to share? Some sort
of E magic or is it a case of throw away and try again.. I did do
some neat metalworking to replicate the OEM sender....hate to waste
that.. ED

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No skeletons in the closet; just decomposing corpses
--------------------------------------------------------------
Dependence is Vulnerability:
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nick hull wrote:
In article ,
ED wrote:

Burning project of the moment is a dead fuel gauge sys on the ol'
farm tractor. 70's vintage IHC lots of german made cast iron for
those appreciating that type of stuff.. Anyhow I condemened the
origional components and with a Napa gauge and sending unit kit
I can get it to work ok but I get a higher reading on the gauge then
is indicated..IOW the gauge reads 1/2 full when it should read empty.

Any tricks to get around this that anyone like to share? Some sort
of E magic or is it a case of throw away and try again.. I did do
some neat metalworking to replicate the OEM sender....hate to waste
that.. ED

Sounds like the sender is not matched to the gauge.
Is there a calibration routine?

In article ,
ED wrote:

Burning project of the moment is a dead fuel gauge sys on the ol'
farm tractor. 70's vintage IHC lots of german made cast iron for
those appreciating that type of stuff.. Anyhow I condemened the
origional components and with a Napa gauge and sending unit kit
I can get it to work ok but I get a higher reading on the gauge then
is indicated..IOW the gauge reads 1/2 full when it should read empty.

Any tricks to get around this that anyone like to share? Some sort
of E magic or is it a case of throw away and try again.. I did do
some neat metalworking to replicate the OEM sender....hate to waste
that.. ED

When I needed a new fuel gage for an old 66 Chrysler I got a digital
readout type. Can be adjusted after installation at the meter, have
been happy with that,

Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/