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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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Welding rod question...
On Wed, 13 Feb 2008 20:49:44 -0500, "Al A."
wrote: Hi all, Here is the application: The steel backstop at our local shooting club's indoor range is an "elevator" style trap. Over the years the areas right behind where the targets hang seem "erode". The theory is that the metal work hardens from the repeated impacts and then bits of metal start to chip out, causing roughness and pits that then interferes the proper operation of the trap. This happens over the course of years, and in the past, we have ground out the rough spots and welded over the area, followed by grinding the welds flat and smooth again. Works great. We now need to do a few areas again, and the question has come up as to what type of rod to use. I'm not sure what was used last time, the guy who did it is no around to ask. I'm pretty sure it was something garden variety like 6011 or something similar, but some have suggested using a "hardfacing" type rod for greater longevity. (the guy who suggested that faces a lot of 'dozer blades and the like) What do some of the experts here suggest? Any ideas? Other info: -Backstop plates are a bit less than 3/4" thick, were once part of a backstop in an old National Guard barricks. No idea of the precise composition. -"Pits" in the plates are mostly 1/16" or less deep. -Used for lead handgun shooting only and .22 rifle. No jacketed stuff, etc. -We have access to fairly serious welder and an experienced man to use it. -just looking for some informed opinions, so that we can try to make an (at least slightly) educated decision. Thanks! -AL Hardfacing wire, if possible. Gunner "Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire. Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us) off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give them self determination under "play nice" rules. Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you for torturing the cat." Gunner |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Welding rod question...
On Wed, 13 Feb 2008 22:37:05 -0800, Ernie Leimkuhler
wrote: In article , "Al A." wrote: Hi all, Here is the application: The steel backstop at our local shooting club's indoor range is an "elevator" style trap. Over the years the areas right behind where the targets hang seem "erode". The theory is that the metal work hardens from the repeated impacts and then bits of metal start to chip out, causing roughness and pits that then interferes the proper operation of the trap. This happens over the course of years, and in the past, we have ground out the rough spots and welded over the area, followed by grinding the welds flat and smooth again. Works great. We now need to do a few areas again, and the question has come up as to what type of rod to use. I'm not sure what was used last time, the guy who did it is no around to ask. I'm pretty sure it was something garden variety like 6011 or something similar, but some have suggested using a "hardfacing" type rod for greater longevity. (the guy who suggested that faces a lot of 'dozer blades and the like) What do some of the experts here suggest? Any ideas? Other info: -Backstop plates are a bit less than 3/4" thick, were once part of a backstop in an old National Guard barricks. No idea of the precise composition. -"Pits" in the plates are mostly 1/16" or less deep. -Used for lead handgun shooting only and .22 rifle. No jacketed stuff, etc. -We have access to fairly serious welder and an experienced man to use it. -just looking for some informed opinions, so that we can try to make an (at least slightly) educated decision. Thanks! -AL I would not go as far as hardfacing rod, because it might spall off the base metal under impact, but I would go for a slightly stronger rod than normal. 8018 or 9018 would be a bit stronger than standard rod. They wont spall with handgun or 22 bullets. Been there, done that. Used hardfacing wire in a mig. Never had to do it again. Gunner "Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire. Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us) off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give them self determination under "play nice" rules. Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you for torturing the cat." Gunner |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Welding rod question...
Hi all,
Here is the application: The steel backstop at our local shooting club's indoor range is an "elevator" style trap. Over the years the areas right behind where the targets hang seem "erode". The theory is that the metal work hardens from the repeated impacts and then bits of metal start to chip out, causing roughness and pits that then interferes the proper operation of the trap. This happens over the course of years, and in the past, we have ground out the rough spots and welded over the area, followed by grinding the welds flat and smooth again. Works great. We now need to do a few areas again, and the question has come up as to what type of rod to use. I'm not sure what was used last time, the guy who did it is no around to ask. I'm pretty sure it was something garden variety like 6011 or something similar, but some have suggested using a "hardfacing" type rod for greater longevity. (the guy who suggested that faces a lot of 'dozer blades and the like) What do some of the experts here suggest? Any ideas? Other info: -Backstop plates are a bit less than 3/4" thick, were once part of a backstop in an old National Guard barricks. No idea of the precise composition. -"Pits" in the plates are mostly 1/16" or less deep. -Used for lead handgun shooting only and .22 rifle. No jacketed stuff, etc. -We have access to fairly serious welder and an experienced man to use it. -just looking for some informed opinions, so that we can try to make an (at least slightly) educated decision. Thanks! -AL |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Welding rod question...
While at first glance, hardfacing seems like a good idea, it might be worth
considering that the plate needs a bit of resilience, as the bullets impacting it expend an awful lot of inertia in a small spot, and some "give" or flex might be in order, too. This might depend on exactly the composition of the substrate. I've never shot at this type of backstop. All the ones I've had experience with (that were NOT 1" armor plate) had smaller plates attached, in a manner that they gave slightly and absorbed the impact, and then deflected the bullet to the main plate, which, in turn, deflected it into the sand-trap. Flash "Al A." wrote in message . .. Hi all, Here is the application: The steel backstop at our local shooting club's indoor range is an "elevator" style trap. Over the years the areas right behind where the targets hang seem "erode". The theory is that the metal work hardens from the repeated impacts and then bits of metal start to chip out, causing roughness and pits that then interferes the proper operation of the trap. This happens over the course of years, and in the past, we have ground out the rough spots and welded over the area, followed by grinding the welds flat and smooth again. Works great. We now need to do a few areas again, and the question has come up as to what type of rod to use. I'm not sure what was used last time, the guy who did it is no around to ask. I'm pretty sure it was something garden variety like 6011 or something similar, but some have suggested using a "hardfacing" type rod for greater longevity. (the guy who suggested that faces a lot of 'dozer blades and the like) What do some of the experts here suggest? Any ideas? Other info: -Backstop plates are a bit less than 3/4" thick, were once part of a backstop in an old National Guard barricks. No idea of the precise composition. -"Pits" in the plates are mostly 1/16" or less deep. -Used for lead handgun shooting only and .22 rifle. No jacketed stuff, etc. -We have access to fairly serious welder and an experienced man to use it. -just looking for some informed opinions, so that we can try to make an (at least slightly) educated decision. Thanks! -AL |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Welding rod question...
What is an "Elevator style" trap?
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#6
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Welding rod question...
On Sun, 17 Feb 2008 08:50:49 -0700, Lew Hartswick
wrote: Al A. wrote: The trap in question is a copy of one marketed by Caswell about 25 years ago. I'm not sure if they still sell one like it. -AL I think the Caswell trap design I saw back about then (I was working on a target scoring device at that time) used a vertical cylindrical section for the energy disapating. This was for an individual firing position Anyone in this thread ever hear of "Accubar" ? ...lew... Wernt they the "rams horn" bullet traps"? Gunner "Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire. Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us) off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give them self determination under "play nice" rules. Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you for torturing the cat." Gunner |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Welding rod question...
In article ,
"Al A." wrote: Hi all, Here is the application: The steel backstop at our local shooting club's indoor range is an "elevator" style trap. Over the years the areas right behind where the targets hang seem "erode". The theory is that the metal work hardens from the repeated impacts and then bits of metal start to chip out, causing roughness and pits that then interferes the proper operation of the trap. This happens over the course of years, and in the past, we have ground out the rough spots and welded over the area, followed by grinding the welds flat and smooth again. Works great. We now need to do a few areas again, and the question has come up as to what type of rod to use. I'm not sure what was used last time, the guy who did it is no around to ask. I'm pretty sure it was something garden variety like 6011 or something similar, but some have suggested using a "hardfacing" type rod for greater longevity. (the guy who suggested that faces a lot of 'dozer blades and the like) What do some of the experts here suggest? Any ideas? Other info: -Backstop plates are a bit less than 3/4" thick, were once part of a backstop in an old National Guard barricks. No idea of the precise composition. -"Pits" in the plates are mostly 1/16" or less deep. -Used for lead handgun shooting only and .22 rifle. No jacketed stuff, etc. -We have access to fairly serious welder and an experienced man to use it. -just looking for some informed opinions, so that we can try to make an (at least slightly) educated decision. Thanks! -AL I would not go as far as hardfacing rod, because it might spall off the base metal under impact, but I would go for a slightly stronger rod than normal. 8018 or 9018 would be a bit stronger than standard rod. |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Welding rod question...
There is 11018 welding rod, which is for welding armor plate. I would
try that. i |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Welding rod question...
I use 10018 on targets. It can be tough as if there is a lot of metal,
pre-heating might be needed. But 90 or 100 18 is great. Martin Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/ Gunner Asch wrote: On Wed, 13 Feb 2008 22:37:05 -0800, Ernie Leimkuhler wrote: In article , "Al A." wrote: Hi all, Here is the application: The steel backstop at our local shooting club's indoor range is an "elevator" style trap. Over the years the areas right behind where the targets hang seem "erode". The theory is that the metal work hardens from the repeated impacts and then bits of metal start to chip out, causing roughness and pits that then interferes the proper operation of the trap. This happens over the course of years, and in the past, we have ground out the rough spots and welded over the area, followed by grinding the welds flat and smooth again. Works great. We now need to do a few areas again, and the question has come up as to what type of rod to use. I'm not sure what was used last time, the guy who did it is no around to ask. I'm pretty sure it was something garden variety like 6011 or something similar, but some have suggested using a "hardfacing" type rod for greater longevity. (the guy who suggested that faces a lot of 'dozer blades and the like) What do some of the experts here suggest? Any ideas? Other info: -Backstop plates are a bit less than 3/4" thick, were once part of a backstop in an old National Guard barricks. No idea of the precise composition. -"Pits" in the plates are mostly 1/16" or less deep. -Used for lead handgun shooting only and .22 rifle. No jacketed stuff, etc. -We have access to fairly serious welder and an experienced man to use it. -just looking for some informed opinions, so that we can try to make an (at least slightly) educated decision. Thanks! -AL I would not go as far as hardfacing rod, because it might spall off the base metal under impact, but I would go for a slightly stronger rod than normal. 8018 or 9018 would be a bit stronger than standard rod. They wont spall with handgun or 22 bullets. Been there, done that. Used hardfacing wire in a mig. Never had to do it again. Gunner "Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire. Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us) off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give them self determination under "play nice" rules. Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you for torturing the cat." Gunner |
#10
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Welding rod question...
Dan wrote:
What is an "Elevator style" trap? Dan, Sorry for the delay in my reply. To answer your question: On the most common style trap, I'm sure you know, the backstop plates are at a 45 degree angle to the ground, with the "floor end" of the plates furthest from the firing point. That way the bullets are deflected towards the floor, and are generally stopped in a sand bed or something similar. An Elevator style trap is one in which the plates that form the backstop are angled the opposite way, the end that rests on the floor is closest to firing line. The plates are not quite at a 45 degree angle and are not quite flat. The plate has a slight but definite bow to it. The way it works is that when a bullet hits the plate, the bullet deforms and essentially skids up the face of the plate. at the top end of the plate is a funnel-like opening that guides the bullet into a round chamber (it is a pipe, actually), where it zips around over 270 degrees, and hits a fixed stopping plate. The round chamber helps to expend some of the bullets energy, and also contains the now-splattered lead. Subsequent shots will knock the lead fragments out of the pipe, where they slide down the face of the plate and are caught by a small trough at the floor. Works great, and there is no sifting through nasty dirty sand to recover the lead. The trap in question is a copy of one marketed by Caswell about 25 years ago. I'm not sure if they still sell one like it. -AL |
#11
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Welding rod question...
Al A. wrote:
The trap in question is a copy of one marketed by Caswell about 25 years ago. I'm not sure if they still sell one like it. -AL I think the Caswell trap design I saw back about then (I was working on a target scoring device at that time) used a vertical cylindrical section for the energy disapating. This was for an individual firing position Anyone in this thread ever hear of "Accubar" ? ...lew... |
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