Clamping V blocks onto 2-3-4 blocks
 

I've had to diddle around trying to clamp a V block down onto a 2-3-4
block while keeping said collection square to the spindle

Actual use was drilling for a scope mount on a Stevens Favorite single
shot. I left the action on the barrel and used a Kant-Twist clamp
(w/poly jaws) to hold the action against an angle plate (keeps the
barrel lined up at right angles to the action). But I had to use blocks
to raise the v blocks high enough for the tang to clear the table (the
tang was actually down in a T slot).

So how can you clamp down v blocks onto 2-3-4 blocks and still remain
square to the spindle?

Clamping V blocks onto 2-3-4 blocks
 

On Mon, 11 Feb 2008 10:18:49 -0600, Louis Ohland wrote:

I've had to diddle around trying to clamp a V block down onto a 2-3-4
block while keeping said collection square to the spindle

Actual use was drilling for a scope mount on a Stevens Favorite single
shot. I left the action on the barrel and used a Kant-Twist clamp
(w/poly jaws) to hold the action against an angle plate (keeps the
barrel lined up at right angles to the action). But I had to use blocks
to raise the v blocks high enough for the tang to clear the table (the
tang was actually down in a T slot).

So how can you clamp down v blocks onto 2-3-4 blocks and still remain
square to the spindle?

Loctite.

Clamping V blocks onto 2-3-4 blocks
 

Interesting use of adhesives. How is the residue removed after the
machining is complete? Will applying force in shear be enough to free
the blocks?

_ wrote:
On Mon, 11 Feb 2008 10:18:49 -0600, Louis Ohland wrote:

I've had to diddle around trying to clamp a V block down onto a 2-3-4
block while keeping said collection square to the spindle

Actual use was drilling for a scope mount on a Stevens Favorite single
shot. I left the action on the barrel and used a Kant-Twist clamp
(w/poly jaws) to hold the action against an angle plate (keeps the
barrel lined up at right angles to the action). But I had to use blocks
to raise the v blocks high enough for the tang to clear the table (the
tang was actually down in a T slot).

So how can you clamp down v blocks onto 2-3-4 blocks and still remain
square to the spindle?

Loctite.

Clamping V blocks onto 2-3-4 blocks
 

On Mon, 11 Feb 2008 10:45:44 -0600, Louis Ohland wrote:

_ wrote:
On Mon, 11 Feb 2008 10:18:49 -0600, Louis Ohland wrote:

I've had to diddle around trying to clamp a V block down onto a 2-3-4
block while keeping said collection square to the spindle

Actual use was drilling for a scope mount on a Stevens Favorite single
shot. I left the action on the barrel and used a Kant-Twist clamp
(w/poly jaws) to hold the action against an angle plate (keeps the
barrel lined up at right angles to the action). But I had to use blocks
to raise the v blocks high enough for the tang to clear the table (the
tang was actually down in a T slot).

So how can you clamp down v blocks onto 2-3-4 blocks and still remain
square to the spindle?

Loctite.

Interesting use of adhesives. How is the residue removed after the
machining is complete? Will applying force in shear be enough to free
the blocks?


Oh, did you want to be able to take them apart after? (chuckle).

(I corrected your posting error for you.)

Clamping V blocks onto 2-3-4 blocks
 

I thought of making some finger clamps to pull down the V block, but
that doesn't answer how to keep things square while tightening things down.

_ wrote:
On Mon, 11 Feb 2008 10:45:44 -0600, Louis Ohland wrote:

_ wrote:
On Mon, 11 Feb 2008 10:18:49 -0600, Louis Ohland wrote:

I've had to diddle around trying to clamp a V block down onto a 2-3-4
block while keeping said collection square to the spindle

Actual use was drilling for a scope mount on a Stevens Favorite single
shot. I left the action on the barrel and used a Kant-Twist clamp
(w/poly jaws) to hold the action against an angle plate (keeps the
barrel lined up at right angles to the action). But I had to use blocks
to raise the v blocks high enough for the tang to clear the table (the
tang was actually down in a T slot).

So how can you clamp down v blocks onto 2-3-4 blocks and still remain
square to the spindle?
Loctite.

Interesting use of adhesives. How is the residue removed after the
machining is complete? Will applying force in shear be enough to free
the blocks?


Oh, did you want to be able to take them apart after? (chuckle).

(I corrected your posting error for you.)

Clamping V blocks onto 2-3-4 blocks
 

Louis Ohland wrote:

I've had to diddle around trying to clamp a V block down onto a 2-3-4
block while keeping said collection square to the spindle

Actual use was drilling for a scope mount on a Stevens Favorite single
shot. I left the action on the barrel and used a Kant-Twist clamp
(w/poly jaws) to hold the action against an angle plate (keeps the
barrel lined up at right angles to the action). But I had to use blocks
to raise the v blocks high enough for the tang to clear the table (the
tang was actually down in a T slot).

Could you have taken the slab sided action (assuming) and clamped that into
your mill vise and then indicated the barrel to horizontal? Then place a
support under where you are drilling?

I have a Stevens miserable loader that I've relined and just need to cut off
the barrel and crown. I didn't get grandma's gun so I bought one that
needed a bit of work so I'd have one for myself.

Wes

Clamping V blocks onto 2-3-4 blocks
 

On Feb 11, 11:18*am, Louis Ohland wrote:
...
* *So how can you clamp down v blocks onto 2-3-4 blocks and still remain
square to the spindle?

I use these things
https://travers.com/htdocs/pdf/0653cat.pdf
or a drill press vise to hold Vee blocks in messy setups. The vee
block can be raised on an adjustable parallel and the vise can be
clamped to the table.

Or make a vee block out of aluminum or such and drill and tap it as
necessary for custom setups. I cast mine from scrap hard solder in a
wooden mold.

Jim Wilkins

Clamping V blocks onto 2-3-4 blocks
 

On Mon, 11 Feb 2008 12:59:44 -0600, Louis Ohland
wrote:

I thought of making some finger clamps to pull down the V block, but
that doesn't answer how to keep things square while tightening things down.

_ wrote:

If these are the tapped and drilled blocks, could you use a
combination of your finger clamps or custom clamps pulled in by a cap
screw in the tapped holes and locating dowels in the untapped holes?
There's a clamp on my lathe saddle which looks about right, it has a
long tail to the support surface, a short clamping surface, and the
one hole for the clamp screw between, inverted of course. Something
like that sized to fit in the v block slot and rest its tail on the
2-3-4 block would work if the tapped holes were in an advantageous
location.

Then you could indicate the v blocks before and after tightening. I'm
assuming that the angle plate keeps the action vertical, and therefore
the barrel and the v blocks are square to the Z axis, and could be
indicated square to the x axis when clamping to the table. Is the
barrel untapered where it rests in the v-blocks? If so, seems like it
should work.

Pete Keillor

On Mon, 11 Feb 2008 10:45:44 -0600, Louis Ohland wrote:

_ wrote:
On Mon, 11 Feb 2008 10:18:49 -0600, Louis Ohland wrote:

I've had to diddle around trying to clamp a V block down onto a 2-3-4
block while keeping said collection square to the spindle

Actual use was drilling for a scope mount on a Stevens Favorite single
shot. I left the action on the barrel and used a Kant-Twist clamp
(w/poly jaws) to hold the action against an angle plate (keeps the
barrel lined up at right angles to the action). But I had to use blocks
to raise the v blocks high enough for the tang to clear the table (the
tang was actually down in a T slot).

So how can you clamp down v blocks onto 2-3-4 blocks and still remain
square to the spindle?
snip

Clamping V blocks onto 2-3-4 blocks
 

Interesting, I suppose using brass stock to protect the action from
scratches would work. That would keep the action reasonably square to
the spindle.

Consider this- indicate the vise so it's 90 degrees to the X axis, put
the V blocks up so the barrel is horizontal, tighten the vise so the
action is tight.

This would be OK for drilling with no side forces, up next to the
action, but milling for a dovetail would make me wonder how rigid it
would be without fastening the barrel and V blocks down.

Wes wrote:
Louis Ohland wrote:

I've had to diddle around trying to clamp a V block down onto a 2-3-4
block while keeping said collection square to the spindle

Actual use was drilling for a scope mount on a Stevens Favorite single
shot. I left the action on the barrel and used a Kant-Twist clamp
(w/poly jaws) to hold the action against an angle plate (keeps the
barrel lined up at right angles to the action). But I had to use blocks
to raise the v blocks high enough for the tang to clear the table (the
tang was actually down in a T slot).

Could you have taken the slab sided action (assuming) and clamped that into
your mill vise and then indicated the barrel to horizontal? Then place a
support under where you are drilling?

I have a Stevens miserable loader that I've relined and just need to cut off
the barrel and crown. I didn't get grandma's gun so I bought one that
needed a bit of work so I'd have one for myself.

Wes

Clamping V blocks onto 2-3-4 blocks
 

This barrel was untapered thankfully, or I would have had to of used
centers or angles.

Not sure if the 2-3-4 block holes are tapped, but that could be fixed.
Perhaps drilling the V blocks for cap screws that would screw into the
2-3-4 block.

Use a "set screw" from the side of the 2-3-4 block to adjust the block
before tightening it down. Indicate on the side of the V block to insure
that it is lined up.

Pete Keillor wrote:
On Mon, 11 Feb 2008 12:59:44 -0600, Louis Ohland
wrote:

I thought of making some finger clamps to pull down the V block, but
that doesn't answer how to keep things square while tightening things down.

_ wrote:

If these are the tapped and drilled blocks, could you use a
combination of your finger clamps or custom clamps pulled in by a cap
screw in the tapped holes and locating dowels in the untapped holes?
There's a clamp on my lathe saddle which looks about right, it has a
long tail to the support surface, a short clamping surface, and the
one hole for the clamp screw between, inverted of course. Something
like that sized to fit in the v block slot and rest its tail on the
2-3-4 block would work if the tapped holes were in an advantageous
location.

Then you could indicate the v blocks before and after tightening. I'm
assuming that the angle plate keeps the action vertical, and therefore
the barrel and the v blocks are square to the Z axis, and could be
indicated square to the x axis when clamping to the table. Is the
barrel untapered where it rests in the v-blocks? If so, seems like it
should work.

Pete Keillor

On Mon, 11 Feb 2008 10:45:44 -0600, Louis Ohland wrote:

_ wrote:
On Mon, 11 Feb 2008 10:18:49 -0600, Louis Ohland wrote:

I've had to diddle around trying to clamp a V block down onto a 2-3-4
block while keeping said collection square to the spindle

Actual use was drilling for a scope mount on a Stevens Favorite single
shot. I left the action on the barrel and used a Kant-Twist clamp
(w/poly jaws) to hold the action against an angle plate (keeps the
barrel lined up at right angles to the action). But I had to use blocks
to raise the v blocks high enough for the tang to clear the table (the
tang was actually down in a T slot).

So how can you clamp down v blocks onto 2-3-4 blocks and still remain
square to the spindle?
snip

Clamping V blocks onto 2-3-4 blocks
 

Louis Ohland wrote:

Not sure if the 2-3-4 block holes are tapped, but that could be fixed.

Not easily I'd expect since the blocks should be hardened and ground,
making tapping them after the fact difficult.

Clamping V blocks onto 2-3-4 blocks
 

Louis Ohland wrote:

This would be OK for drilling with no side forces, up next to the
action, but milling for a dovetail would make me wonder how rigid it
would be without fastening the barrel and V blocks down.

Are you putting both scope mounts and iron sights on it? If so the front
dove tail would need support.

I had to think for a while to imagine how a tapered barrel lies in a vee
block. My brain told me a line of contact on both side but until I took
tapered line up punch and vee blockto verify, I wasn't ready to bet myself
money on it.


Can you support the action in the mill vise and then clamp your vee block to
an angle plate at the barrel end?

Wes

Clamping V blocks onto 2-3-4 blocks
 

Mm. Well, thanks for raining on my parade...

If they would be difficult to tap, then I could use bolts to pass
through, and T nuts tapped for the bolt size.

Pete C. wrote:
Louis Ohland wrote:
Not sure if the 2-3-4 block holes are tapped, but that could be fixed.

Not easily I'd expect since the blocks should be hardened and ground,
making tapping them after the fact difficult.

Clamping V blocks onto 2-3-4 blocks
 

Wes wrote:
Are you putting both scope mounts and iron sights on it? If so the front
dove tail would need support.

Dad uses a scope. Eyes aren't good enough for iron.

In this case, the barrel was straight (thank God!) It's a match barrel,
and it loves the hell out of Yellow Jackets from Remington. Sorta odd,
YJs are not IMHO the classical match ammo in any stretch of the
imagination.

Dad simply turned the action 180 and reclamped it to the angle plate to
mill out the dovetail for the forearm hanger.

I had to think for a while to imagine how a tapered barrel lies in a vee
block. My brain told me a line of contact on both side but until I took
tapered line up punch and vee block to verify, I wasn't ready to bet myself
money on it.

The end of a tapered barrel will touch the sides of a V block at three
points at the most, depending on whether the block is square to the
table or on a angle plate. On an angle plate, the barrel will touch at
each side of the v, along the circumference of the barrel, and at a
point on the lower front edge of the muzzle (not exactly, but this is
machining, not rocket science).

Can you support the action in the mill vise and then clamp your vee block to
an angle plate at the barrel end?

Sure, you could, but how is one to determine if the bore is parallel to
the table?

Clamping V blocks onto 2-3-4 blocks
 

Louis Ohland wrote:

Can you support the action in the mill vise and then clamp your vee block to
an angle plate at the barrel end?

Sure, you could, but how is one to determine if the bore is parallel to
the table?

In this case the barrel is straight. You could use an indicol and test
indicator to tram the side and then top of barrel. A level would get it
close enough up and down also for this application.

If you have an edge finder, you can use it to kick off at both ends of
barrel until you have the barrel aligned with the table long axis.

If you only have a piece of smooth rod you can clamp in the spindle, use
that and feelers to check clearance on side from one extreme to another and
then the top. The lenght of that barrel is working in your favor.

Feelers can be paper or whatever you got to work with.

HTH,

Wes

Clamping V blocks onto 2-3-4 blocks
 

Well, that does it for a straight barrel. Taper?


Wes wrote:
Louis Ohland wrote:

Can you support the action in the mill vise and then clamp your vee block to
an angle plate at the barrel end?
Sure, you could, but how is one to determine if the bore is parallel to
the table?

In this case the barrel is straight. You could use an indicol and test
indicator to tram the side and then top of barrel. A level would get it
close enough up and down also for this application.

If you have an edge finder, you can use it to kick off at both ends of
barrel until you have the barrel aligned with the table long axis.

If you only have a piece of smooth rod you can clamp in the spindle, use
that and feelers to check clearance on side from one extreme to another and
then the top. The lenght of that barrel is working in your favor.

Feelers can be paper or whatever you got to work with.

HTH,

Wes

Clamping V blocks onto 2-3-4 blocks
 

Louis Ohland wrote:

Well, that does it for a straight barrel. Taper?


I thought about that a bit. I'm embarrassed to admit that indicating a
close fitting mandrill or stub sticking out of muzzle is the best I can come
up with at the moment. When turning a stub, two separated rings of contact
vs the whole lenght in barrel is the way to go.

Wes