Engine repair (?) mystery
 

The patient is a Homelite generator with an 8hp Briggs engine. From the
number of repair shop stickers on it, one would guess that it had been
professionally maintained. I removed the carburetor to clean it, and
discovered that the choke had been disabled by cutting off the lever
arm, center punching the shaft to deform metal to fix the choke in the
open position, and filing the shaft flush with the carbruetor body. The
remaining shaft on the lever arm was also filed flat, and the tension
screw on the arm was used to attach the lever arm to the carb body to
give the appearance of the choke being operational. The workmanship on
what was done is good. But why would anyone do it? There would be many
other ways to lock the choke open without sawing anything.

All I can imagine is an old guy putting it back together saying "this'll
make em scratch their heads".

I'm down to to the basement to make up a choke extention.


Kevin Gallimore

Engine repair (?) mystery
 

On Feb 9, 7:42 am, axolotl wrote:
The patient is a Homelite generator with an 8hp Briggs engine. From the
number of repair shop stickers on it, one would guess that it had been
professionally maintained. I removed the carburetor to clean it, and
discovered that the choke had been disabled by cutting off the lever
arm, center punching the shaft to deform metal to fix the choke in the
open position, and filing the shaft flush with the carbruetor body. The
remaining shaft on the lever arm was also filed flat, and the tension
screw on the arm was used to attach the lever arm to the carb body to
give the appearance of the choke being operational. The workmanship on
what was done is good. But why would anyone do it? There would be many
other ways to lock the choke open without sawing anything.

All I can imagine is an old guy putting it back together saying "this'll
make em scratch their heads".

I'm down to to the basement to make up a choke extention.

Kevin Gallimore

IF the engine has a priming pump button with a rubber cover, etc. then
it doesn't need the choke. The carb may be a replacement unit that
doesn't quite measure up.

Paul

Engine repair (?) mystery
 

Were you the gent looking for manuals? If so I have them.
Greg

Engine repair (?) mystery
 

Greg O wrote:
Were you the gent looking for manuals? If so I have them.


It was I. It is very kind of you to dig them out. My address is real.

Thanks again,

Kevin Gallimore

Engine repair (?) mystery
 

The patient is a Homelite generator with an 8hp Briggs engine. From the
number of repair shop stickers on it, one would guess that it had been
professionally maintained. I removed the carburetor to clean it, and
discovered that the choke had been disabled by cutting off the lever
arm, center punching the shaft to deform metal to fix the choke in the
open position, and filing the shaft flush with the carbruetor body. The
remaining shaft on the lever arm was also filed flat, and the tension
screw on the arm was used to attach the lever arm to the carb body to
give the appearance of the choke being operational. The workmanship on
what was done is good. But why would anyone do it? There would be many
other ways to lock the choke open without sawing anything.

All I can imagine is an old guy putting it back together saying "this'll
make em scratch their heads".

I'm down to to the basement to make up a choke extention.


Kevin Gallimore
Possibly vibration was a problem, making the choke go closed - and a
fix would be to lock the chock open and simply close off the air
intake for starting.?? ?? ??
Ken.

Engine repair (?) mystery
 

Ken Sterling wrote:
The patient is a Homelite generator with an 8hp Briggs engine. From the
number of repair shop stickers on it, one would guess that it had been
professionally maintained. I removed the carburetor to clean it, and
discovered that the choke had been disabled by cutting off the lever
arm, center punching the shaft to deform metal to fix the choke in the
open position, and filing the shaft flush with the carbruetor body. The
remaining shaft on the lever arm was also filed flat, and the tension
screw on the arm was used to attach the lever arm to the carb body to
give the appearance of the choke being operational. The workmanship on
what was done is good. But why would anyone do it? There would be many
other ways to lock the choke open without sawing anything.

All I can imagine is an old guy putting it back together saying "this'll
make em scratch their heads".

I'm down to to the basement to make up a choke extention.


Kevin Gallimore
Possibly vibration was a problem, making the choke go closed - and a
fix would be to lock the chock open and simply close off the air
intake for starting.?? ?? ??
Ken.

Well , I don't know Jack about Homelite's , but my MAXA is dead . For
now , at least . Old unit , that I got when my dad passed . It has never
idled down properly, always surged under light/no load . It uses a
Tecumseh 8hp motor , and I always figured it was a blocked idle/low
speed passage .It's never been an issue , since it is usually under at
least 50% load when in use . Last time I tested it (too long ago ...)
it ****ed the gas out almost as fast as I poured it in . Turns out the
float is holed , so I went ahead and put the kit I bought (also too long
ago ...) in the carb. Fer sure there's no blocked passages now ! Too
bad that in a city this size (Memphis Tn.) you can't buy a replacement
float after noon on a Saturday .
Assuming I can make it to the small engine place before they close
Monday ...
--
Snag , now why did I feel the need to fix that genset TODAY ?

Engine repair (?) mystery
 

Ken Sterling wrote:
The patient is a Homelite generator with an 8hp Briggs engine. From the
number of repair shop stickers on it, one would guess that it had been
professionally maintained. I removed the carburetor to clean it, and
discovered that the choke had been disabled by cutting off the lever
arm, center punching the shaft to deform metal to fix the choke in the
open position, and filing the shaft flush with the carbruetor body. The
remaining shaft on the lever arm was also filed flat, and the tension
screw on the arm was used to attach the lever arm to the carb body to
give the appearance of the choke being operational. The workmanship on
what was done is good. But why would anyone do it? There would be many
other ways to lock the choke open without sawing anything.

All I can imagine is an old guy putting it back together saying "this'll
make em scratch their heads".

I'm down to to the basement to make up a choke extention.


Kevin Gallimore
Possibly vibration was a problem, making the choke go closed - and a
fix would be to lock the chock open and simply close off the air
intake for starting.?? ?? ??
Ken.

Well , I don't know Jack about Homelite's , but my MAXA is dead . For
now , at least . Old unit , that I got when my dad passed . It has never
idled down properly, always surged under light/no load . It uses a
Tecumseh 8hp motor , and I always figured it was a blocked idle/low
speed passage .It's never been an issue , since it is usually under at
least 50% load when in use . Last time I tested it (too long ago ...)
it ****ed the gas out almost as fast as I poured it in . Turns out the
float is holed , so I went ahead and put the kit I bought (also too long
ago ...) in the carb. Fer sure there's no blocked passages now ! Too
bad that in a city this size (Memphis Tn.) you can't buy a replacement
float after noon on a Saturday .
Assuming I can make it to the small engine place before they close
Monday ...
--
Snag , now why did I feel the need to fix that genset TODAY ?
Old enough unit to have a brass float??? If so, a little dab of
solder fixes it (after ya get the gas out first, of course). G
Ken.

Engine repair (?) mystery
 

Ken Sterling wrote:
Ken Sterling wrote:
The patient is a Homelite generator with an 8hp Briggs engine. From the
number of repair shop stickers on it, one would guess that it had been
professionally maintained. I removed the carburetor to clean it, and
discovered that the choke had been disabled by cutting off the lever
arm, center punching the shaft to deform metal to fix the choke in the
open position, and filing the shaft flush with the carbruetor body. The
remaining shaft on the lever arm was also filed flat, and the tension
screw on the arm was used to attach the lever arm to the carb body to
give the appearance of the choke being operational. The workmanship on
what was done is good. But why would anyone do it? There would be many
other ways to lock the choke open without sawing anything.

All I can imagine is an old guy putting it back together saying "this'll
make em scratch their heads".

I'm down to to the basement to make up a choke extention.


Kevin Gallimore
Possibly vibration was a problem, making the choke go closed - and a
fix would be to lock the chock open and simply close off the air
intake for starting.?? ?? ??
Ken.

Well , I don't know Jack about Homelite's , but my MAXA is dead . For
now , at least . Old unit , that I got when my dad passed . It has never
idled down properly, always surged under light/no load . It uses a
Tecumseh 8hp motor , and I always figured it was a blocked idle/low
speed passage .It's never been an issue , since it is usually under at
least 50% load when in use . Last time I tested it (too long ago ...)
it ****ed the gas out almost as fast as I poured it in . Turns out the
float is holed , so I went ahead and put the kit I bought (also too long
ago ...) in the carb. Fer sure there's no blocked passages now ! Too
bad that in a city this size (Memphis Tn.) you can't buy a replacement
float after noon on a Saturday .
Assuming I can make it to the small engine place before they close
Monday ...
--
Snag , now why did I feel the need to fix that genset TODAY ?
Old enough unit to have a brass float??? If so, a little dab of
solder fixes it (after ya get the gas out first, of course). G
Ken.

Yeah , I did solder the hole , I thought . Actually it looks like a
fatigue crack from vibration . Cleaned it and the rest of the parts up
in my gallon can of carb cleaner . Got it all ready to reassemble and
there's liquid in the float again . They only cost a few bucks , so I'll
wait until tomorrow . I don't feel so bad about it , this is the first
service it's got since I got it in '98 . And it was very well used
before I got it . Dad carried it on his refrigeration service truck for
several years ...
--
Snag

Engine repair (?) mystery
 

"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
.. .
Ken Sterling wrote:
Yeah , I did solder the hole , I thought . Actually it looks like a
fatigue crack from vibration . Cleaned it and the rest of the parts up in
my gallon can of carb cleaner . Got it all ready to reassemble and there's
liquid in the float again .

Old time mechanics would boil the float in water to drive out any leftover
fuel. Use a hotplate and work outdoors.

-Carl (rapidly becoming an old time mechanic)

Engine repair (?) mystery
 

Carl Byrns wrote:
"Terry Coombs" wrote in message
.. .
Ken Sterling wrote:
Yeah , I did solder the hole , I thought . Actually it looks like a
fatigue crack from vibration . Cleaned it and the rest of the parts up in
my gallon can of carb cleaner . Got it all ready to reassemble and there's
liquid in the float again .

Old time mechanics would boil the float in water to drive out any leftover
fuel. Use a hotplate and work outdoors.

-Carl (rapidly becoming an old time mechanic)


Oh , I had all the fuel out , yup , sure did . Heated it until all
the fuel was gone . I just ain't as good a solderer as I usetabe . Not
such a big deal , I wasn't really expecting to seal the leak , but I had
to try . In fact , since it was a fatigue crack , I wasn't trying all
that hard . Cuz next thing ya know , I'm halfway thru a power outage and
it develops another crack ... for six bucks or so , a new float is cheap
peace of mind .
--
Snag , cuz when ya really NEED a generator ...