Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Ping Iggy...
Well, I'm not sure what I was smoking, but having the pressure switch
wired into FWD & DCM, I am getting the motor starting up and staying running with the cutout switch on or off. http://www.driveswarehouse.com/docum...spede/PC1M.pdf The paramaters are correct in 0-20 and 2-00, so I'm not sure what I'm missing. 0-20 is b00001 2-00 is 0 Help? |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Ping Iggy...
On 2007-12-23, Todd Rich wrote:
Well, I'm not sure what I was smoking, but having the pressure switch wired into FWD & DCM, I am getting the motor starting up and staying running with the cutout switch on or off. http://www.driveswarehouse.com/docum...spede/PC1M.pdf The paramaters are correct in 0-20 and 2-00, so I'm not sure what I'm missing. 0-20 is b00001 2-00 is 0 Help? I think that you have it programmed for a separate STOP operation or something. i |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Ping Iggy...
Ignoramus19045 wrote:
On 2007-12-23, Todd Rich wrote: Well, I'm not sure what I was smoking, but having the pressure switch wired into FWD & DCM, I am getting the motor starting up and staying running with the cutout switch on or off. http://www.driveswarehouse.com/docum...spede/PC1M.pdf The paramaters are correct in 0-20 and 2-00, so I'm not sure what I'm missing. 0-20 is b00001 2-00 is 0 Help? I think that you have it programmed for a separate STOP operation or something. i Well, I guess I'll call them up Wednesday and see if they can point me in the right direction. Btw I was doing the oil change yesterday and it was pretty bad. I let it drain overnight, and I'll put in the fresh oil today. A little slowed down by two migraines. Doesn't appear to be any oil filters to change. Todd |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Ping Iggy...
Todd Rich wrote:
Well, I'm not sure what I was smoking, but having the pressure switch wired into FWD & DCM, I am getting the motor starting up and staying running with the cutout switch on or off. http://www.driveswarehouse.com/docum...spede/PC1M.pdf The paramaters are correct in 0-20 and 2-00, so I'm not sure what I'm missing. 0-20 is b00001 2-00 is 0 Help? Check the setting of 0-19, the factory default is '0' which only allows control from the keypad or the comm port, try setting 0-19 to '1' which should give control from the keypad or external terminals such as FWD. Regards Paul -- ----------------------------------------- It's a Linux world....well, it oughta be. ----------------------------------------- |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Ping Iggy...
On Mon, 24 Dec 2007 19:11:01 +0000 (UTC), Todd Rich
wrote: Ignoramus19045 wrote: On 2007-12-23, Todd Rich wrote: Well, I'm not sure what I was smoking, but having the pressure switch wired into FWD & DCM, I am getting the motor starting up and staying running with the cutout switch on or off. http://www.driveswarehouse.com/docum...spede/PC1M.pdf The paramaters are correct in 0-20 and 2-00, so I'm not sure what I'm missing. 0-20 is b00001 2-00 is 0 Help? I think that you have it programmed for a separate STOP operation or something. i Well, I guess I'll call them up Wednesday and see if they can point me in the right direction. Btw I was doing the oil change yesterday and it was pretty bad. I let it drain overnight, and I'll put in the fresh oil today. A little slowed down by two migraines. Doesn't appear to be any oil filters to change. Todd Whats the issue? Ive missed most of this thread. On many/most VFDs, you would hook the RF switch to the NC pressure switch. When its below the cut off pressure, the switch remains closed, telling the VFD to run the motor. At cut off, the switch opens, the VFD stops running the motor and it coasts to a stop. No need to program in Stop in this application. What am I missing? Gunner, user of VFDs nearly daily "Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire. Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us) off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give them self determination under "play nice" rules. Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you for torturing the cat." Gunner |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Ping Iggy...
"Todd Rich" wrote in message ... Well, I guess I'll call them up Wednesday and see if they can point me in the right direction. Btw I was doing the oil change yesterday and it was pretty bad. I let it drain overnight, and I'll put in the fresh oil today. A little slowed down by two migraines. Doesn't appear to be any oil filters to change. Todd Nope yours was/is a "pre oil filter" version of the pump. Mine has a spin on automotive type filter on it, you can't miss it:-) Did you ever figure out what that thing is on the tank that the air line enters? is it some kind of cooler or a water trap?? William |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Ping Iggy...
Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 24 Dec 2007 19:11:01 +0000 (UTC), Todd Rich (snip) Well, I guess I'll call them up Wednesday and see if they can point me in the right direction. Btw I was doing the oil change yesterday and it was pretty bad. I let it drain overnight, and I'll put in the fresh oil today. A little slowed down by two migraines. Doesn't appear to be any oil filters to change. Todd Whats the issue? Ive missed most of this thread. Mainly that I couldn't seem to turn on the terminal block that reads the pressure switch. Another poster pointed me to the proper paramater. Though it is supposed to take 9 quarts of oil and it only took about 8, so I think I've got at least a quart of sludge in the bottom of the case. On many/most VFDs, you would hook the RF switch to the NC pressure switch. When its below the cut off pressure, the switch remains closed, telling the VFD to run the motor. At cut off, the switch opens, the VFD stops running the motor and it coasts to a stop. No need to program in Stop in this application. Yep, works that way here too. What am I missing? Just that it had an paramater that I didn't notice that tells it where it takes the commands from. If you don't turn on the terminal block, it can't read the pressure switch. Gunner, user of VFDs nearly daily This is the one I'm using: http://www.driveswarehouse.com/Drive...D/PC1-150.html Seems to do a dandy job of phase-converting too. Ramp-up is nice as smooth and the lights don't fliker at all. Running a 15HP motor. Todd |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Ping Iggy...
William wrote:
"Todd Rich" wrote in message (snip) Btw I was doing the oil change yesterday and it was pretty bad. I let it drain overnight, and I'll put in the fresh oil today. A little slowed down by two migraines. Doesn't appear to be any oil filters to change. Todd Nope yours was/is a "pre oil filter" version of the pump. Mine has a spin on automotive type filter on it, you can't miss it:-) Yeah, I've seen it in photos in Quincy's literature. No sign of it on mine. However I put in 8 quarts and the dipstick read almost full, so I think I've got about a quart of sludge still at the bottom despite trying to blow it out. I figure I won't run that long on this oil change and run it a while before draining it again. Did you ever figure out what that thing is on the tank that the air line enters? is it some kind of cooler or a water trap?? Not sure. And it doesn't go directly in, the air pipe comes out the back and then goes in the tank on the upper back side. I'll take some closer photos and post them. Or just give Quincy a call and see what they have to say. Only obvious things are a vent valve and a small screw valve of some kind at the base. William Todd |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Ping Iggy...
Paul wrote:
Todd Rich wrote: (snip) Help? Check the setting of 0-19, the factory default is '0' which only allows control from the keypad or the comm port, try setting 0-19 to '1' which should give control from the keypad or external terminals such as FWD. That was it! Thank you. I think I'm going to get a better switch though, I want something I can lock-out if needs be. 3 works as well as 1. I just have to remember on 1 that I don't want to put it in keypad mode and then press run if I want it to run from the pressure switch. PU light off and it works exactly as I was hoping to. Turn the switch on an it starts. Leave it on and when the contacts open at 120psi, it shuts off. Drop it to 90psi and it starts up. Turn the switch off and it stays off. However it looks like I might want to see if I can set it up with a larger range. I'm only supposed to let it start 6 times an hour and while my draw might be high, it is intermittent. And it looks like my unloaders are starter types, not continuous run types. At least they didn't kick in before 190psi when I let it run up high. Regards Paul Thanks again! That really helped! Todd |
#10
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Ping Iggy...
Todd Rich wrote:
Paul wrote: Todd Rich wrote: (snip) Help? Check the setting of 0-19, the factory default is '0' which only allows control from the keypad or the comm port, try setting 0-19 to '1' which should give control from the keypad or external terminals such as FWD. That was it! Thank you. I think I'm going to get a better switch though, I want something I can lock-out if needs be. 3 works as well as 1. I just have to remember on 1 that I don't want to put it in keypad mode and then press run if I want it to run from the pressure switch. PU light off and it works exactly as I was hoping to. Turn the switch on an it starts. Leave it on and when the contacts open at 120psi, it shuts off. Drop it to 90psi and it starts up. Turn the switch off and it stays off. However it looks like I might want to see if I can set it up with a larger range. I'm only supposed to let it start 6 times an hour and while my draw might be high, it is intermittent. And it looks like my unloaders are starter types, not continuous run types. At least they didn't kick in before 190psi when I let it run up high. Regards Paul Thanks again! That really helped! Todd Todd Glad that did it, most of the time the factory defaults are sane enough to get simple applications going relatively easily, but sometimes not. A '3' in 0-19 might be better than a '1' as it locks out the keypad for control inputs. As this is a compressor and should only run 'FWD' I'd suggest setting 1-21 to '1' to disable 'REV'. If this drive came to you new and unmolested the factory defaults should be enforce, if it was used previously I'd go through and check all the settings, or just use the 'reset to factory defaults' function (you'll have to change back anything you setup already). If you expect the drive to do motor overcurrent protection, (you most likely need this) you'll have to enter the motor nameplate full load amps in 5-00. Some drives require this entry to run but others don't, also check 5-03, 'Number of Poles'. The factory default is '4' which is correct for a nominal 1800 rpm motor (most likely what your compressor motor is). Maybe you've been through these last settings already, if so ignore this last Regards Paul -- ----------------------------------------- It's a Linux world....well, it oughta be. ----------------------------------------- |
#11
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
Ping Iggy...
Paul wrote:
(snip) Glad that did it, most of the time the factory defaults are sane enough to get simple applications going relatively easily, but sometimes not. A '3' in 0-19 might be better than a '1' as it locks out the keypad for control inputs. As this is a compressor and should only run 'FWD' I'd suggest setting 1-21 to '1' to disable 'REV'. I was considering it, and will probably set it to disable REV today. If this drive came to you new and unmolested the factory defaults should be enforce, if it was used previously I'd go through and check all the settings, or just use the 'reset to factory defaults' function (you'll have to change back anything you setup already). If you expect the drive to do motor overcurrent protection, (you most likely need this) you'll have to enter the motor nameplate full load amps in 5-00. Some drives require this entry to run but others don't, also check 5-03, 'Number of Poles'. The factory default is '4' which is correct for a nominal 1800 rpm motor (most likely what your compressor motor is). Maybe you've been through these last settings already, if so ignore this last Yep, the drive came brand new. I'm not sure why I'm missing a lot of these setting. The input is probably due to just not understanding what I was reading. However I should have notice 5-00, and will enter today when I get a chance. My other VFD has a whole block of data that needed to be entered in from the motor's dataplate. And yes, it is an 1800 rpm notor. And thanks for the input. While I'm not necessarily *happy* with having mistakes pointed out to me, I would much rather that happen than to go on wandering in ignorance. Regards Paul Todd |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Ping - Iggy.. | Metalworking | |||
Ping Iggy VFD News | Metalworking | |||
Ping: Iggy | Metalworking |