polyurethane chuck jaws for a lathe
 

I'm facing the ends of some 303 SS TGP and wandering if having jaws
made from polturethane would grip the stock well enough.

Anyone try this??

I cover the jaws with electrical tape now so they don't stratch the
stock.

I did another job where I had to turn and thread the ends 1/2-13 with
a geometric type head, think they'd work for that? The tape trick
did.

I've seen Poly used for press brake dies, so.....

polyurethane chuck jaws for a lathe
 

wrote in message
...
I'm facing the ends of some 303 SS TGP and wandering if having jaws
made from polturethane would grip the stock well enough.

Anyone try this??

I cover the jaws with electrical tape now so they don't stratch the
stock.

I did another job where I had to turn and thread the ends 1/2-13 with
a geometric type head, think they'd work for that? The tape trick
did.

I've seen Poly used for press brake dies, so.....

I'd suggest that if the cuts were light enough, you might get away with
plastic. Problem is it's ability to cold flow---which it might do under
enough pressure. Not the best of all worlds.

I get the idea you can mount soft jaws---otherwise you wouldn't be talking
about using plastic.

Any reason why you don't use either aluminum or steel? Properly
machined, they'll run, for all practical purposes, dead nuts (.0005"), and
won't mark your work. It is a good idea if the body diameter being gripped
be constant on all pieces. My policy is to hold that diameter to +/- .001"
maximum, to assure concentricity.

If you're not familiar with soft jaws, but are able to use them, speak up.
There's some information readily available for those that are not familiar.

Harold

polyurethane chuck jaws for a lathe
 

polyurethane chuck jaws for a lathe
 

On Mon, 26 Nov 2007 05:41:29 GMT, "Harold and Susan Vordos"
wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
I'm facing the ends of some 303 SS TGP and wandering if having jaws
made from polturethane would grip the stock well enough.

Anyone try this??

I cover the jaws with electrical tape now so they don't stratch the
stock.

I did another job where I had to turn and thread the ends 1/2-13 with
a geometric type head, think they'd work for that? The tape trick
did.

I've seen Poly used for press brake dies, so.....

I'd suggest that if the cuts were light enough, you might get away with
plastic. Problem is it's ability to cold flow---which it might do under
enough pressure. Not the best of all worlds.

I get the idea you can mount soft jaws---otherwise you wouldn't be talking
about using plastic.

Any reason why you don't use either aluminum or steel? Properly
machined, they'll run, for all practical purposes, dead nuts (.0005"), and
won't mark your work. It is a good idea if the body diameter being gripped
be constant on all pieces. My policy is to hold that diameter to +/- .001"
maximum, to assure concentricity.

If you're not familiar with soft jaws, but are able to use them, speak up.
There's some information readily available for those that are not familiar.

Harold

I might give aluminum a try since I have it on hand. I was thinking
plastic because these are 24" long 3/4" dia. and I only like to open
the chuck just enough to slide them in/out. 200 pcs BTW.

Thank You,
Randy

Remove 333 from email address to reply.

polyurethane chuck jaws for a lathe
 

In article ,
Randy wrote:

I'm facing the ends of some 303 SS TGP and wandering if having jaws
made from polturethane would grip the stock well enough.
....
I might give aluminum a try since I have it on hand. I was thinking
plastic because these are 24" long 3/4" dia. and I only like to open
the chuck just enough to slide them in/out. 200 pcs BTW.

Sounds like a good job for a collet.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

polyurethane chuck jaws for a lathe
 

"Randy" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 26 Nov 2007 05:41:29 GMT, "Harold and Susan Vordos"
wrote:


wrote in message
. ..
I'm facing the ends of some 303 SS TGP and wandering if having jaws
made from polturethane would grip the stock well enough.

Anyone try this??

I cover the jaws with electrical tape now so they don't stratch the
stock.

I did another job where I had to turn and thread the ends 1/2-13 with
a geometric type head, think they'd work for that? The tape trick
did.

I've seen Poly used for press brake dies, so.....

I'd suggest that if the cuts were light enough, you might get away with
plastic. Problem is it's ability to cold flow---which it might do under
enough pressure. Not the best of all worlds.

I get the idea you can mount soft jaws---otherwise you wouldn't be talking
about using plastic.

Any reason why you don't use either aluminum or steel? Properly
machined, they'll run, for all practical purposes, dead nuts (.0005"),
and
won't mark your work. It is a good idea if the body diameter being
gripped
be constant on all pieces. My policy is to hold that diameter to +/-
.001"
maximum, to assure concentricity.

If you're not familiar with soft jaws, but are able to use them, speak up.
There's some information readily available for those that are not
familiar.

Harold

I might give aluminum a try since I have it on hand. I was thinking
plastic because these are 24" long 3/4" dia. and I only like to open
the chuck just enough to slide them in/out. 200 pcs BTW.

Thank You,
Randy

A fine finish on the jaws, coupled with a tiny radius on the outside edge
should prevent any marking. I see your problem, the length must be passed
without longitudinal marking. Any doubts, hit all sharp edges with some 180
polishing cloth to remove whiskers. Soft jaws will work-----and if all
you're doing is facing, and maybe cutting a chamfer, even if the material
varies a little more than a thou in diameter, you should still get good
results. If you have to hold concentricity----could be questionable if
size varies. You'll come to discover that this method will hold your
material far better than a collet, assuming you make the length of
engagement reasonably long in length. I use soft jaws in place of
hardened jaws routinely---for that reason.

Harold