Finished Long Parts Tumbler
 

Just wanted to thank everybody who helped me with the motor info and
everything. It's pretty much done: http://www.ejearchive.com/temp/tumbler.jpg

Just waiting for the motor to show up.

Dave

Finished Long Parts Tumbler
 

wrote:

Just wanted to thank everybody who helped me with the motor info and
everything. It's pretty much done: http://www.ejearchive.com/temp/tumbler.jpg

Just waiting for the motor to show up.

Dave

Looks nice. What are you planning to tumble in it?

Wes

Finished Long Parts Tumbler
 

I'm mainly doing 1/4" aluminum round parts, but also some 1" tube and
a few other things. All aluminum. I do thousands of them, so this is a
real time saver.

Dave

Finished Long Parts Tumbler
 

On Oct 7, 7:13 pm, wrote:
I'm mainly doing 1/4" aluminum round parts, but also some 1" tube and
a few other things. All aluminum. I do thousands of them, so this is a
real time saver.

Dave

Looks good - Are the black ends caps plumbing items.

Tim

Finished Long Parts Tumbler
 

On Oct 7, 10:40 am, TMN wrote:

Are the black ends caps plumbing items.

Yes, it's 4" ABS and caps. I would have preferred 6", but I didn't
feel like ordering it. I might have to put some texture on the sides
to minimize slippage. I'm also going to experiment with materials on
the inside walls. You need something that allows the media to stick a
little to the sides so you get a good sloshing effect. I'll probably
try some of that shower basin liner sheet stuff first.

Dave

Finished Long Parts Tumbler
 

wrote:

On Oct 7, 10:40 am, TMN wrote:


Are the black ends caps plumbing items.


Yes, it's 4" ABS and caps. I would have preferred 6", but I didn't
feel like ordering it. I might have to put some texture on the sides
to minimize slippage. I'm also going to experiment with materials on
the inside walls. You need something that allows the media to stick a
little to the sides so you get a good sloshing effect. I'll probably
try some of that shower basin liner sheet stuff first.

Dave




I tumble parts from time to time, mostly stuff that was water jetted
plates with a edge on them that has to be removed. I use a 5 gallon
bucket with a couple of wood strips screwed from the outside into wood
strips on the inside of the bucket. I put the whole thing in a lathe
with the tail stock holding the lid on the bucket.


John

Finished Long Parts Tumbler
 

On Oct 7, 11:20 am, john wrote:

I tumble parts from time to time, mostly stuff that was water jetted
plates with a edge on them that has to be removed. I use a 5 gallon
bucket with a couple of wood strips screwed from the outside into wood
strips on the inside of the bucket. I put the whole thing in a lathe
with the tail stock holding the lid on the bucket.


That's a good idea... I've thought about using the wings inside and
might try that.

Finished Long Parts Tumbler
 

On Sun, 07 Oct 2007 11:02:50 -0700, wrote:

On Oct 7, 10:40 am, TMN wrote:

Are the black ends caps plumbing items.

Yes, it's 4" ABS and caps. I would have preferred 6", but I didn't
feel like ordering it. I might have to put some texture on the sides
to minimize slippage.
How about an rubber band or section of inner tube (wheelbarrow tire?)
around each end cap?

I'm also going to experiment with materials on
the inside walls. You need something that allows the media to stick a
little to the sides so you get a good sloshing effect. I'll probably
try some of that shower basin liner sheet stuff first.

Dave


Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Finished Long Parts Tumbler
 

Finished Long Parts Tumbler
 

Pete C. wrote:

wrote:

On Oct 7, 5:08 pm, Gerald Miller wrote:


How about an rubber band or section of inner tube (wheelbarrow tire?)
around each end cap?

Yeah, that could work... I was thinking even hockey tape.


Roll on truck bed liner. Hurculiner and some Duplicolor product are
readily available.

Just snap (say) six Viton O-rings around the pipe, would be my opinion:

McMaster.com 5267T299 are $4.36 each in a two-pack, ferinstance.

Or you could super-glue O-ring stock to make a custom diameter.

--Winston

Finished Long Parts Tumbler
 

On Sun, 07 Oct 2007 11:02:50 -0700, scribed:

On Oct 7, 10:40 am, TMN wrote:

Are the black ends caps plumbing items.

Yes, it's 4" ABS and caps. I would have preferred 6", but I didn't
feel like ordering it. I might have to put some texture on the sides
to minimize slippage. I'm also going to experiment with materials on
the inside walls. You need something that allows the media to stick a
little to the sides so you get a good sloshing effect. I'll probably
try some of that shower basin liner sheet stuff first.

Dave



Looks nice.

Mebbe try some of that sticky back sheet you get for not slipping on
stair treads for both the in and out. Seems pretty inexpensive, and
comes in easily cut lengths. I dinna know how the holding power is of
the sticky back is under heat though.

Been on my steps now through 4 New England winters if that is any
testament. How it holds up an a rotary deburr is another question.

Best,

Phred

Finished Long Parts Tumbler
 

On Mon, 08 Oct 2007 19:46:30 GMT, Winston
wrote:

Pete C. wrote:

wrote:

On Oct 7, 5:08 pm, Gerald Miller wrote:


How about an rubber band or section of inner tube (wheelbarrow tire?)
around each end cap?

Yeah, that could work... I was thinking even hockey tape.


Roll on truck bed liner. Hurculiner and some Duplicolor product are
readily available.

Just snap (say) six Viton O-rings around the pipe, would be my opinion:

McMaster.com 5267T299 are $4.36 each in a two-pack, ferinstance.

Or you could super-glue O-ring stock to make a custom diameter.

--Winston

Viton is great for high temp, use Buna-N it's cheaper. Polyureathane
is the ideal choice for drive belt useage.

Thank You,
Randy

Remove 333 from email address to reply.

Finished Long Parts Tumbler
 

On Oct 9, 5:45 am, Randy wrote:

Viton is great for high temp, use Buna-N it's cheaper. Polyureathane
is the ideal choice for drive belt useage.

Speaking of which, I think I screwed up on my pulleys. The ratios are
right, but I'm having a hard time finding a belt. Both pulleys are 3L,
but the motor one is 1" outer diameter. Which is quite small for bore
size. I didn't realize how small until I saw it. I just assumed that
if it was a 3L pulley, that a 3L belt would work. But I'm not sure it
will bend enough around something that small. Can I just use a flat
belt or something?

Funny, it's always the projects you thought would be easy that end up
tricky.

Dave

Finished Long Parts Tumbler
 

In article . com,
wrote:

On Oct 7, 10:40 am, TMN wrote:

Are the black ends caps plumbing items.

Yes, it's 4" ABS and caps. I would have preferred 6", but I didn't
feel like ordering it. I might have to put some texture on the sides
to minimize slippage. I'm also going to experiment with materials on
the inside walls. You need something that allows the media to stick a
little to the sides so you get a good sloshing effect. I'll probably
try some of that shower basin liner sheet stuff first.

Dave

How about first tumble something that'll scuff up the inside of the
pipe? Maybe a bunch of shattered glass and chain?

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net

Finished Long Parts Tumbler
 

Can I just use a flat belt or something?

O ring stock grips the pulleys well - I use it in a fishing rod
turning machine. Just cut to length and super glue together.

Tim

Finished Long Parts Tumbler
 

On Tue, 09 Oct 2007 21:58:43 -0700, wrote:

On Oct 9, 5:45 am, Randy wrote:

Viton is great for high temp, use Buna-N it's cheaper. Polyureathane
is the ideal choice for drive belt useage.

Speaking of which, I think I screwed up on my pulleys. The ratios are
right, but I'm having a hard time finding a belt. Both pulleys are 3L,
but the motor one is 1" outer diameter. Which is quite small for bore
size. I didn't realize how small until I saw it. I just assumed that
if it was a 3L pulley, that a 3L belt would work. But I'm not sure it
will bend enough around something that small. Can I just use a flat
belt or something?

Funny, it's always the projects you thought would be easy that end up
tricky.

Dave
There are available V belts that are notched on the inside so that
they are similar in appearance to a timing belt. These will bend
around a smaller diameter easier.
ERS

Finished Long Parts Tumbler
 

Not glass - chards. Use chunks of steel that have a bur.
Cut offs from the saw or swarf from the lathe or mill.
Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


B.B. wrote:
In article . com,
wrote:

On Oct 7, 10:40 am, TMN wrote:

Are the black ends caps plumbing items.
Yes, it's 4" ABS and caps. I would have preferred 6", but I didn't
feel like ordering it. I might have to put some texture on the sides
to minimize slippage. I'm also going to experiment with materials on
the inside walls. You need something that allows the media to stick a
little to the sides so you get a good sloshing effect. I'll probably
try some of that shower basin liner sheet stuff first.

Dave

How about first tumble something that'll scuff up the inside of the
pipe? Maybe a bunch of shattered glass and chain?


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Finished Long Parts Tumbler
 

Thanks for the help guys... Here's the final final...

http://www.ejearchive.com/temp/tumbler2.jpg

As it turns out, it doesn't need to have any grip material at all on
the edges. I roughed it up with sanding and that was good enough. A
normal belt was also good enough.

Only thing now is to sort out the inside. It seems to work without any
liner, but it's very noisy. I tried using that anti slip shelving
stuff taped in a pipe shape, but without gluing it, I think it was
just slipping around. Whatever material is used, it will have to be
glued in well. It's obviously a very hostile environment to make any
glue stay. Ideally what would be great is to have a hatch that opens
along the whole length. It's kind of a pain having to dump the stuff
out in a bucket, then put the media back in each time.

Dave

Finished Long Parts Tumbler
 

Hey Dave,

Looks super. Makes me wish In had something to tumble!

Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

On Thu, 11 Oct 2007 10:48:35 -0700, wrote:

Thanks for the help guys... Here's the final final...

http://www.ejearchive.com/temp/tumbler2.jpg

As it turns out, it doesn't need to have any grip material at all on
the edges. I roughed it up with sanding and that was good enough. A
normal belt was also good enough.

Only thing now is to sort out the inside. It seems to work without any
liner, but it's very noisy. I tried using that anti slip shelving
stuff taped in a pipe shape, but without gluing it, I think it was
just slipping around. Whatever material is used, it will have to be
glued in well. It's obviously a very hostile environment to make any
glue stay. Ideally what would be great is to have a hatch that opens
along the whole length. It's kind of a pain having to dump the stuff
out in a bucket, then put the media back in each time.

Dave

Finished Long Parts Tumbler
 

Split your tube lengthwise and get an "H" shaped gasket to seal the
seams. Use the caps to hold the sides together for rolling, then pull
the caps off and lift off the top half to get to your parts. I tried to
find an H shaped seal at www.mcmcaster.com but the best I could do is a
hollow round seal on top of a U, part 1120A312. You can cut open the
round half to make the H shape. You might even make up discs and glue
them onto each end on the inside of one tube half and always put that
side down when you open the tube, so when you pull the caps your media
doesn't spill out the ends.

--
Regards,
Carl Ijames carl dott ijames aat verizon dott net
(remove nospm or make the obvious changes before replying)

wrote in message
ps.com...
Thanks for the help guys... Here's the final final...

http://www.ejearchive.com/temp/tumbler2.jpg

As it turns out, it doesn't need to have any grip material at all on
the edges. I roughed it up with sanding and that was good enough. A
normal belt was also good enough.

Only thing now is to sort out the inside. It seems to work without any
liner, but it's very noisy. I tried using that anti slip shelving
stuff taped in a pipe shape, but without gluing it, I think it was
just slipping around. Whatever material is used, it will have to be
glued in well. It's obviously a very hostile environment to make any
glue stay. Ideally what would be great is to have a hatch that opens
along the whole length. It's kind of a pain having to dump the stuff
out in a bucket, then put the media back in each time.

Dave

Finished Long Parts Tumbler
 

Nice.

How about a bicycle tube - 18" of it or whatever. Use zip ties to
squeeze tight.

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


wrote:
Thanks for the help guys... Here's the final final...

http://www.ejearchive.com/temp/tumbler2.jpg

As it turns out, it doesn't need to have any grip material at all on
the edges. I roughed it up with sanding and that was good enough. A
normal belt was also good enough.

Only thing now is to sort out the inside. It seems to work without any
liner, but it's very noisy. I tried using that anti slip shelving
stuff taped in a pipe shape, but without gluing it, I think it was
just slipping around. Whatever material is used, it will have to be
glued in well. It's obviously a very hostile environment to make any
glue stay. Ideally what would be great is to have a hatch that opens
along the whole length. It's kind of a pain having to dump the stuff
out in a bucket, then put the media back in each time.

Dave


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Finished Long Parts Tumbler
 

wrote:

Thanks for the help guys... Here's the final final...

http://www.ejearchive.com/temp/tumbler2.jpg


Looks nice.

As I had noted, roll on truck bed liner would probably make a good
interior coating to both quiet things and give a little traction.

I think trying to make a linear hatch on something that small diameter
would be a frustrating experience with lots of leaks.

A tumbler for SCUBA tanks I recently built.

http://wpnet.us/tumbler.jpg

Pete C.

Finished Long Parts Tumbler
 

That's what's great about this NG... Everybody is a real problem
solver.

You might be onto something with that split idea Carl. I'll have to
look into it.

And Pete... Yes, I forgot to mention the spray-on idea you had. I just
wasn't quite sure how I was going to get it evenly inside the tube. I
learned a little more today... I found rubber end caps that have the
stainless bands. I just took off the bands and they work a lot better
than the ABS caps. They're easier to get on and off, totally water
proof, more quiet, and also provide more friction than you could ever
need. In fact, too much friction... They started wearing down the
shaft hose. I had to put tape on them to stop the chaffing. They also
have these "testing" caps, where they have a cap with a rubber cork
below it, and then a screw in the middle to expand the rubber. But
those are even with the pipe size, so the whole pipe would be rolling.

I'm not a diver... Why do tanks need to be tumbled?

I also found this pipe insulation tape to put inside. It's like 2"
wide foamy stuff with very sticky backing. I actually didn't think it
would stay on, but it's was still stuck perfectly after running it 3
hours.

Dave

Finished Long Parts Tumbler
 

On Thu, 11 Oct 2007 23:13:40 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
quickly quoth:

That's what's great about this NG... Everybody is a real problem
solver.

You might be onto something with that split idea Carl. I'll have to
look into it.

And Pete... Yes, I forgot to mention the spray-on idea you had. I just
wasn't quite sure how I was going to get it evenly inside the tube. I

What about the liquid rubber dip stuff? Buy 3 cans and pour it in the
tube, rotating it while it coats the inside. Pour the rest back into a
can and save it for pliers and other tool handles.
http://tinyurl.com/3bhvlu

Or try the brush-on rubber membrane goop used for waterproofing under
tiles in the shower. http://tinyurl.com/2poufh

--
Reading well is one of the great pleasures that solitude can afford you.
-- Harold Bloom, O Magazine, April 2003

Finished Long Parts Tumbler
 

Finished Long Parts Tumbler
 

On Oct 12, 6:18 am, "Pete C." wrote:

If a tank gets moisture and resulting corrosion inside you tumble them
with an abrasive slurry inside to clean them so they can be fully
inspected to be sure the corrosion didn't damage the tank enough to make
it unsafe (3,000 PSI for the typical aluminum 80cf tanks = potential big
boom).

That's why I think the truck coating would be good, it's designed to
bond tightly and is resilient so it should take some abuse.

Ahh... OK, that makes sense.

Yeah, I'll checkout the truck stuff when the tape wears out.

Larry, I did think about the tool rubber stuff. The guy at the store
didn't seem to think it would stick enough though. But that other
rubber stuff might be an option.

Dave

Finished Long Parts Tumbler
 

On Fri, 12 Oct 2007 11:15:42 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
quickly quoth:

On Oct 12, 6:18 am, "Pete C." wrote:

If a tank gets moisture and resulting corrosion inside you tumble them
with an abrasive slurry inside to clean them so they can be fully
inspected to be sure the corrosion didn't damage the tank enough to make
it unsafe (3,000 PSI for the typical aluminum 80cf tanks = potential big
boom).

That's why I think the truck coating would be good, it's designed to
bond tightly and is resilient so it should take some abuse.

Undercoating?


Ahh... OK, that makes sense.

Yeah, I'll checkout the truck stuff when the tape wears out.

Larry, I did think about the tool rubber stuff. The guy at the store
didn't seem to think it would stick enough though. But that other
rubber stuff might be an option.

Scuff the inside of the tube to give it some tooth, then clean it
thoroughly with a good solvent.

--
Reading well is one of the great pleasures that solitude can afford you.
-- Harold Bloom, O Magazine, April 2003

Finished Long Parts Tumbler
 

Not undercoating - the bed liners on pickups that are sprayed on.
Real nice and tough!
Martin

Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


Larry Jaques wrote:
On Fri, 12 Oct 2007 11:15:42 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
quickly quoth:

On Oct 12, 6:18 am, "Pete C." wrote:

If a tank gets moisture and resulting corrosion inside you tumble them
with an abrasive slurry inside to clean them so they can be fully
inspected to be sure the corrosion didn't damage the tank enough to make
it unsafe (3,000 PSI for the typical aluminum 80cf tanks = potential big
boom).

That's why I think the truck coating would be good, it's designed to
bond tightly and is resilient so it should take some abuse.

Undercoating?


Ahh... OK, that makes sense.

Yeah, I'll checkout the truck stuff when the tape wears out.

Larry, I did think about the tool rubber stuff. The guy at the store
didn't seem to think it would stick enough though. But that other
rubber stuff might be an option.

Scuff the inside of the tube to give it some tooth, then clean it
thoroughly with a good solvent.


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Finished Long Parts Tumbler
 

How is your generator doing?

i

On 2007-10-17, James Lerch wrote:
On Sat, 06 Oct 2007 22:10:49 -0700, wrote:

Just wanted to thank everybody who helped me with the motor info and
everything. It's pretty much done: http://www.ejearchive.com/temp/tumbler.jpg

Neat, what are you going to use for media? (that's the part that
always made me skip any tumbler / vibratory toys..errr tools)

Finished Long Parts Tumbler
 

On 2007-10-18, James Lerch wrote:
On Wed, 17 Oct 2007 12:23:12 -0500, Ignoramus27577
wrote:

How is your generator doing?


So far so good. It does what I hoped it would do (keep the HVAC and
Lights running).

However, if i had to do it again, I'd select a 4cyl engine. With the
single cylinder engine running 60hz @ 1800rpm equals 1 power stroke
every 4 cycles. The big flywheel helps smooth this out, but my
SmartUPS are too "Smart" and see the fluctuating frequency and refuse
to switch over to "utility power" when the HVAC is running.

Its not the end of the world, but does require I shut the "data
center" down, pull the Smartups out of the loop, and power up the
"data center" again... (kinda annoying.) I might look at getting a
little 3kw Honda inverter gen to power the "data center"

The alternative of course would be to build a 5 cyl radial Diesel to
power the genset :)

I have the same problem with my 2 cylinder Onan DJE. I am not 100%
sure why my UPSes do not like it. Could be frequency or could be
something else.

i

Finished Long Parts Tumbler
 

On 2007-10-18, James Lerch wrote:
On Thu, 18 Oct 2007 09:58:47 -0500, Ignoramus1624
wrote:

I have the same problem with my 2 cylinder Onan DJE. I am not 100%
sure why my UPSes do not like it. Could be frequency or could be
something else.

I've done a lot of research and I am confident the issue is the
slightly fluctuating frequency between power strokes. If I unload the
generator, the Ups will switch to utility power over a fairly wide
range of frequencies. 58 - 62hz

Jim, thanks for a nice post, I saved it in my archive of notes. It
makes total sense. I can live with this issue, but, as you say, it is
annoying.

i

Finished Long Parts Tumbler
 

I've considered all kinds of odd ways to try and "fix" the issue, but
haven't implemented any of them yet because it just works as-is for
the most part..

Oh, here's a short list of my "odd" ideas

A) Active rotor power control to modulate the output voltage in real
time to fix both voltage AND frequency fluctuations. Not a very
efficient fix, but I think it might work.

B) Mechanical weights on the flywheel that extend during a power
stroke, and retract during the compression stroke in an attempt to
keep the flywheel rpm constant..

C) Various stupid electro-mechanical tricks to make clean 60hz 120vac
@ 1.4Kw at the Smartups outlet
1) Rectify to DC, invert back to AC
2) Dc motor powering small generator
3) several large induction motors with massive flywheels
attached to line power... For bonus points, enclose flywheels in a
vacuum chamber to reduce losses... :)

You left out my favorite from that discussion on s.e.d, an elliptical
and/or offcenter pulley on the motor to maintain constant generator
speed. :-) I know the optimum shape would change with load, but it
would look so neat.

--
Regards,
Carl Ijames carl dott ijames aat verizon dott net
(remove nospm or make the obvious changes before replying)

Finished Long Parts Tumbler
 

On Oct 17, 10:19 am, James Lerch
Neat, what are you going to use for media? (that's the part that
always made me skip anytumbler/ vibratory toys..errr tools)

The main parts I'm doing are 1/4" aluminum round pieces. For that,
I've found that small river pebbles about 1/8" to 3/16" work best.
It's filled with 1/3 pebbles and water, plus a little soap. About 2
hours later they're shinny and smooth. I'm sure walnut shells would
make them even better. I've tried a couple larger hollow tubes, but it
doesn't work as well on those. I think the tubes fill with the media
and the weight makes the parts slam down and get small dents from the
media. I ended up using pvc shower basin liner inside. I also switched
to using screw tight test plugs on the ends instead of caps. I cut the
tops off rubber caps and just used the ring sides on the pipe to work
as the gripping surface to turn.