Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
BP horizontal attachment
I've been looking for a right angle attachment for my varispeed J head.
I've googled and found some for M heads. What is the major difference between the ones for the J and the ones for the M and what can I expect to be a fair price? And by the way does anyone here have one they want to part with? cheers T.Alan |
#2
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
BP horizontal attachment
On Fri, 21 Sep 2007 10:41:59 -0700, "T.Alan Kraus"
wrote: I've been looking for a right angle attachment for my varispeed J head. I've googled and found some for M heads. What is the major difference between the ones for the J and the ones for the M and what can I expect to be a fair price? The attachment clamps on the OD of the quill and mates with the taper in the spindle. The J head has a larger quill than the M head and a different spindle taper. And by the way does anyone here have one they want to part with? I might. -- Ned Simmons |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
BP horizontal attachment
On Fri, 21 Sep 2007 15:39:43 -0400, Ned Simmons wrote:
On Fri, 21 Sep 2007 10:41:59 -0700, "T.Alan Kraus" wrote: I've been looking for a right angle attachment for my varispeed J head. I've googled and found some for M heads. What is the major difference between the ones for the J and the ones for the M and what can I expect to be a fair price? The attachment clamps on the OD of the quill and mates with the taper in the spindle. The J head has a larger quill than the M head and a different spindle taper. And by the way does anyone here have one they want to part with? I might. I am interesting in your attachment Ned. Let me know if you ever decide to part with it. i |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
BP horizontal attachment
On Fri, 21 Sep 2007 15:11:11 -0500, Ignoramus25943
wrote: On Fri, 21 Sep 2007 15:39:43 -0400, Ned Simmons wrote: On Fri, 21 Sep 2007 10:41:59 -0700, "T.Alan Kraus" wrote: And by the way does anyone here have one they want to part with? I might. I am interesting in your attachment Ned. Let me know if you ever decide to part with it. I am interested in selling the attachment, I just don't know how much of it. I have two of the RA attachments as well as a horizontal arbor and support. I keep meaning to check and see if the arbor support fits the mill I currently have. If it doesn't, I'd probably want to sell the RA attachment, arbor and support together. I'll try to check over the weekend - nudge me if you don't hear in a few days. -- Ned Simmons |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
BP horizontal attachment
On Fri, 21 Sep 2007 21:58:24 -0400, Ned Simmons wrote:
On Fri, 21 Sep 2007 15:11:11 -0500, Ignoramus25943 wrote: On Fri, 21 Sep 2007 15:39:43 -0400, Ned Simmons wrote: On Fri, 21 Sep 2007 10:41:59 -0700, "T.Alan Kraus" wrote: And by the way does anyone here have one they want to part with? I might. I am interesting in your attachment Ned. Let me know if you ever decide to part with it. I am interested in selling the attachment, I just don't know how much of it. I have two of the RA attachments as well as a horizontal arbor and support. I keep meaning to check and see if the arbor support fits the mill I currently have. If it doesn't, I'd probably want to sell the RA attachment, arbor and support together. I'll try to check over the weekend - nudge me if you don't hear in a few days. Let me know Ned. The RA attachment, is that an angle attachment? Got any N2 collets? i;A |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
BP horizontal attachment
On Fri, 21 Sep 2007 21:30:14 -0500, Ignoramus25943
wrote: Let me know Ned. The RA attachment, is that an angle attachment? Yes, RA = right angle. This is a J head angle attachment... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=270166363663 and an arbor support... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=120074171220 The arbor support clamps on the ram dovetails, which is what I need to check for fit. Got any N2 collets? N2? -- Ned Simmons |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
BP horizontal attachment
On Fri, 21 Sep 2007 22:41:11 -0400, Ned Simmons wrote:
On Fri, 21 Sep 2007 21:30:14 -0500, Ignoramus25943 wrote: Let me know Ned. The RA attachment, is that an angle attachment? Yes, RA = right angle. This is a J head angle attachment... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=270166363663 and an arbor support... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=120074171220 The arbor support clamps on the ram dovetails, which is what I need to check for fit. Got any N2 collets? N2? Oh, I misunderstood you, I thought (incorrectly) that you said that you have the variable angle attachment. I have such an attachment, but no collets for it. :-( Those are called N2 collets. In any case, I am interested in a right angle attachment. Also, just curious, what crimper do you use for crimping 10-18 gauge terminals. (mostly insulated). I am not 100% satisfied with mine. After having done a lot of Ethernet wiring with a nice Ideal RJ-45 crimper, I now want to upgrade my cheap terminal crimper to something nice also. Hence my question. By the way, the ethernet wiring upgraded my house to gigabit Ethernet. i |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
BP horizontal attachment
I know Iggy jumped right in there, but if you are deciding to sell the
attachment and it fits a J head and has an R8 spindle, I'm interested. cheers T.Alan |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
BP horizontal attachment
Ignoramus25943 wrote:
Also, just curious, what crimper do you use for crimping 10-18 gauge terminals. (mostly insulated). I am not 100% satisfied with mine. After having done a lot of Ethernet wiring with a nice Ideal RJ-45 crimper, I now want to upgrade my cheap terminal crimper to something nice also. Hence my question. By the way, the ethernet wiring upgraded my house to gigabit Ethernet. i Iggy If that's the ratcheting type RJ45 crimper you can get a set of dies for it that does crimp on lugs. These things not only crimp the wire in the lug barrel but have a secondary die that crimps the plastic barrel part of the connector onto the wire insulation. These are becoming sort of a 'spec grade' required method in some industries such as nuclear power and the power industry in general, per a friend in that area. I have a set for my ratcheting crimpers at work and they do a very nice job but somewhat more slowly than other methods. My crimper of choice is actually one of those universal types, but a very nice one, not one of those ****ty ones that come with the 'crimp on assortment' kits. The wire stripper section is not the best but I do use the screw cutter section. I don't recall what brand they are, possibly Klien, maybe Ideal. The T&B brand crimpers do a nice job also, 'u' shaped dies for non insulated lugs and longer fatter handles for better leverage. Regards Paul -- ----------------------------------------- It's a Linux world....well, it oughta be. ----------------------------------------- |
#10
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
BP horizontal attachment
On Fri, 21 Sep 2007 23:55:19 -0500, Paul wrote:
Ignoramus25943 wrote: Also, just curious, what crimper do you use for crimping 10-18 gauge terminals. (mostly insulated). I am not 100% satisfied with mine. After having done a lot of Ethernet wiring with a nice Ideal RJ-45 crimper, I now want to upgrade my cheap terminal crimper to something nice also. Hence my question. By the way, the ethernet wiring upgraded my house to gigabit Ethernet. i Iggy If that's the ratcheting type RJ45 crimper you can get a set of dies for it that does crimp on lugs. These things not only crimp the wire in the lug barrel but have a secondary die that crimps the plastic barrel part of the connector onto the wire insulation. These are becoming sort of a 'spec grade' required method in some industries such as nuclear power and the power industry in general, per a friend in that area. I have a set for my ratcheting crimpers at work and they do a very nice job but somewhat more slowly than other methods. My crimper of choice is actually one of those universal types, but a very nice one, not one of those ****ty ones that come with the 'crimp on assortment' kits. The wire stripper section is not the best but I do use the screw cutter section. I don't recall what brand they are, possibly Klien, maybe Ideal. The T&B brand crimpers do a nice job also, 'u' shaped dies for non insulated lugs and longer fatter handles for better leverage. Paul, thanks. If you have a picture of the crimper that you like, I would love to look at it. i |
#11
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
BP horizontal attachment
Ignoramus25943 wrote:
On Fri, 21 Sep 2007 23:55:19 -0500, Paul wrote: Ignoramus25943 wrote: Also, just curious, what crimper do you use for crimping 10-18 gauge terminals. (mostly insulated). I am not 100% satisfied with mine. After having done a lot of Ethernet wiring with a nice Ideal RJ-45 crimper, I now want to upgrade my cheap terminal crimper to something nice also. Hence my question. By the way, the ethernet wiring upgraded my house to gigabit Ethernet. i Iggy If that's the ratcheting type RJ45 crimper you can get a set of dies for it that does crimp on lugs. These things not only crimp the wire in the lug barrel but have a secondary die that crimps the plastic barrel part of the connector onto the wire insulation. These are becoming sort of a 'spec grade' required method in some industries such as nuclear power and the power industry in general, per a friend in that area. I have a set for my ratcheting crimpers at work and they do a very nice job but somewhat more slowly than other methods. My crimper of choice is actually one of those universal types, but a very nice one, not one of those ****ty ones that come with the 'crimp on assortment' kits. The wire stripper section is not the best but I do use the screw cutter section. I don't recall what brand they are, possibly Klien, maybe Ideal. The T&B brand crimpers do a nice job also, 'u' shaped dies for non insulated lugs and longer fatter handles for better leverage. Paul, thanks. If you have a picture of the crimper that you like, I would love to look at it. i Well, all that stuff is at work but I'll see what I can do about ID'ing it Monday. Paul -- ----------------------------------------- It's a Linux world....well, it oughta be. ----------------------------------------- |
#12
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
BP horizontal attachment
..
Also, just curious, what crimper do you use for crimping 10-18 gauge terminals. (mostly insulated). I am not 100% satisfied with mine. After having done a lot of Ethernet wiring with a nice Ideal RJ-45 crimper, I now want to upgrade my cheap terminal crimper to something nice also. Hence my question. By the way, the ethernet wiring upgraded my house to gigabit Ethernet \ I Not the fanciest but I use a Klein WT111A I think is the number. Use it at least weekly for the last 30 years. Worn but sill does well. Bob AZ |
#13
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
BP horizontal attachment
On Sat, 22 Sep 2007 00:21:40 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm, Bob
AZ quickly quoth: . Also, just curious, what crimper do you use for crimping 10-18 gauge terminals. (mostly insulated). I am not 100% satisfied with mine. After having done a lot of Ethernet wiring with a nice Ideal RJ-45 crimper, I now want to upgrade my cheap terminal crimper to something nice also. Hence my question. By the way, the ethernet wiring upgraded my house to gigabit Ethernet \ I Not the fanciest but I use a Klein WT111A I think is the number. Use it at least weekly for the last 30 years. Worn but sill does well. I was curious and tried to google that crimper but couldn't find it. WWII issue, eh? g Here's another Klein tool I never thought I'd see. Do they still even -make- beverage bottles like that? http://www.mytoolstore.com/klein/promobev.html -- EXPLETIVE: A balm, usually applied verbally in hindsight, which somehow eases those pains and indignities following our every deficiency in foresight. |
#14
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
BP horizontal attachment
T.Alan Kraus wrote:
I've been looking for a right angle attachment for my varispeed J head. I've googled and found some for M heads. What is the major difference between the ones for the J and the ones for the M and what can I expect to be a fair price? And by the way does anyone here have one they want to part with? cheers T.Alan I have a right angle attachment and TWO of the outboard arbor supports, both of which fit a BP. I also have I believe 4 horizontal arbors. I picked up this stuff at a show a few years back and have never used it. I am definitely willing to sell the stuff. But I don't have time to even think about it right now - I'm on a critical welding job working 7 14s until today and then I'm off for a week in Montana. Grant |
#15
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
BP horizontal attachment
Grant, when you return, lets deal, I'm interested. Happy hunting if
that's what your doing in Montana. cheers T.Alan I have a right angle attachment and TWO of the outboard arbor supports, both of which fit a BP. I also have I believe 4 horizontal arbors. I picked up this stuff at a show a few years back and have never used it. I am definitely willing to sell the stuff. But I don't have time to even think about it right now - I'm on a critical welding job working 7 14s until today and then I'm off for a week in Montana. Grant |
#16
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
BP horizontal attachment
According to Ignoramus25943 :
[ ... ] Also, just curious, what crimper do you use for crimping 10-18 gauge terminals. (mostly insulated). I am not 100% satisfied with mine. For *insulated* terminals in that range, I use two crimpers by AMP. The Heavyhead one for 10-12 gauge (yellow insulation and handle dip), and one of the lighter ones for 16-18 gauge (blue insulation, blue and green color dips on the handles). There is a slight overlap between that and the next size down 16-22 (red insulation and handle dip). Often the handle dip is worn off except on the inside of the handles. The newer Heavyhead ones are also often marked 16-14 -- but that is for a specially insulated one -- double insulation, I think, so it is a proper fit. All should be marked "P.I.D.G" ("Post Insulated Diamond Grip" is what that stands for), and works best with genuine AMP terminals, which are designed to firmly grip the insulation -- with a three-position adjustment for the insulation crimp size. For *uninsulated* terminals -- you want a separate set of crimpers, tailored for the uninsulated terminals. I don't use those, so I can't suggest the proper crimpers for those. This e-bay auction: 200153890891 has a strange one. The head looks like a heavy-head crimper, but the extra length of the handles suggests that it is modified for a different terminal size -- perhaps 6 gauge based on the number shown. O.K. 290163350835 is the normal heavy-head crimper, and the starting bid is a nice one at least. This one: 7597766347 is the 22-16 gauge one (Red insulation), but it is an auction for five of them, so you'll have to pick the best and sell off the rest, I guess -- or give the rest to friends. This one: 330068726166 is the 14-16 gauge (blue/green handle dip, blue insulation). But the price is a bit steep ($90.00 BIN, paypal required) Same for this -- with an even steeper price: 330078502270 Keep watching eBay for the various sizes -- but the three I listed will cover most needs. Avoid the "Type F" ones -- they are for a special type of uninsulated. It has two pairs of flags. The ones closer to the terminal crimp onto the wire, and those at the end crimp onto the insulation. They are mostly used for crimp-on pins, though I have seen crimp-on terminals using the same things -- it is just more difficult to find the good terminals for them. And remember -- matching the crimper to the terminal and the wire size is required for a really reliable crimp. This is why I have a bucket of crimpers which I have difficulty lifting when it is full. (And this does not include the hydraulic ones plus dies for the #8 through #2 range and the 0 through 4/0 range. -- yes, I now have the full set. :-) There are lots of specialized crimpers by AMP as well, including ones which will crimp the braid and the center pin on coax connector inserts, and ones which will crimp a ferrule to make wire connections to the braid on shielded wires of various types. Good Luck, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#17
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
BP horizontal attachment
DoN, thanks a lot, great post. I think that I will simply monitor the
crimpers category like I do with AC drives category (a lot of insanity is going on in the latter). Thank you very much for getting me started. i |
#18
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
BP horizontal attachment
On Fri, 21 Sep 2007 22:26:28 -0500, Ignoramus25943
wrote: In any case, I am interested in a right angle attachment. I finally got around to rounding up the various parts and checking the fit of the arbor support on my mill. Email me and I'll tell you what I've got. Also, just curious, what crimper do you use for crimping 10-18 gauge terminals. (mostly insulated). I am not 100% satisfied with mine. I use a T&B crimper like this most often... http://www.tnb.com/ps/fulltilt/index.cgi?part=wt145a I have a several of the AMP crimpers that DoN mentioned, and while they do an excellent job, I wouldn't want to make too many terminations in 10-12 wire with one. The design seems perfect for causing a repetitive stress injury. I use the smaller ones for D-sub pins and CPC connectors quite a lot, and even they are a bit awkward. -- Ned Simmons |
#19
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
BP horizontal attachment
According to Ned Simmons :
[ ... ] I have a several of the AMP crimpers that DoN mentioned, and while they do an excellent job, I wouldn't want to make too many terminations in 10-12 wire with one. The design seems perfect for causing a repetitive stress injury. There are electric, pneumatic, or hydraulic ones using the same crimp head if you are doing a lot of terminals at one sitting -- e.g. production line work. I even saw one which was battery powered hydraulic on eBay recently -- Bundy, but with the AMP crimp head for the 10-12 ga terminals. I use the smaller ones for D-sub pins and CPC connectors quite a lot, and even they are a bit awkward. I've had no problems with any of the smaller ones -- but then I don't sit all day crimping terminals. And for the larger terminals -- 8 through 2 Ga, and 1/0 through 4/0 -- I have an electrically powered hydraulic system. Enjoy, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#21
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
BP horizontal attachment
|
#22
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
BP horizontal attachment
According to Joseph Gwinn :
In article , (DoN. Nichols) wrote: [ ... ] And for the larger terminals -- 8 through 2 Ga, and 1/0 through 4/0 -- I have an electrically powered hydraulic system. I had to attach two terminals to #6 stranded wire many years ago, in the late 1960s. There wasn't space for a mechanical (sidebolt) terminal, and I didn't have a crimper, so I bought the crimp terminals (which were made of copper) and simply soldered them to the wire with a torch and plumbers solder and flux, wiped the flux off with a paper towel, and insulated the barrel with heavy heat-shrink tubing. That can work -- but it can be a bad choice if the terminal is subjected to vibration. The solder wicks up to the insulation and stops right there, and any flex from the vibration is concentrated in that one spot -- resulting in eventual failure at that point. The crimped terminals leave a bit more length of solder-free wire, so the flex occurs over a longer stretch, and the wire lasts longer. And the *good* crimped terminals -- the pre-insulated ones with a P.I.D.G. crimper will collapse the rear of the insulation sleeve to grip the insulation, thus reducing the flex at the terminal. In particular, the AMP terminals for the P.I.D.G. (Pre Insulated Diamond Grip) have a sleeve of metal shim stock around the terminal barrel and inside the insulation, with the last bit folded back to the edge points towards the terminal. This bites into the insulation to grip it more firmly than possible by just collapsing the plastic insulation to form a grip. This is why these terminals are particularly preferred for aircraft applications -- when it is quite awkward if certain electrical connections fail while you are aloft -- and they *never* seem to fail on the ground. :-) Enjoy, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#23
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
BP horizontal attachment
"DoN. Nichols" wrote:
According to Joseph Gwinn : In article , (DoN. Nichols) wrote: [ ... ] And for the larger terminals -- 8 through 2 Ga, and 1/0 through 4/0 -- I have an electrically powered hydraulic system. I had to attach two terminals to #6 stranded wire many years ago, in the late 1960s. There wasn't space for a mechanical (sidebolt) terminal, and I didn't have a crimper, so I bought the crimp terminals (which were made of copper) and simply soldered them to the wire with a torch and plumbers solder and flux, wiped the flux off with a paper towel, and insulated the barrel with heavy heat-shrink tubing. That can work -- but it can be a bad choice if the terminal is subjected to vibration. The solder wicks up to the insulation and stops right there, and any flex from the vibration is concentrated in that one spot -- resulting in eventual failure at that point. The crimped terminals leave a bit more length of solder-free wire, so the flex occurs over a longer stretch, and the wire lasts longer. And the *good* crimped terminals -- the pre-insulated ones with a P.I.D.G. crimper will collapse the rear of the insulation sleeve to grip the insulation, thus reducing the flex at the terminal. In particular, the AMP terminals for the P.I.D.G. (Pre Insulated Diamond Grip) have a sleeve of metal shim stock around the terminal barrel and inside the insulation, with the last bit folded back to the edge points towards the terminal. This bites into the insulation to grip it more firmly than possible by just collapsing the plastic insulation to form a grip. This is why these terminals are particularly preferred for aircraft applications -- when it is quite awkward if certain electrical connections fail while you are aloft -- and they *never* seem to fail on the ground. :-) Enjoy, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- In my experience, the biggest problem with failure of crimped terminals is that the installer did not use a proper crimping device, or the unit was not calibrated with a go no go gauge. The cheap stamped out crimping might be ok for household use but they spring and don't do a secure crimp. A good T & B forged crimping tool is a lot better way to go than the stamped ones if you can find one used in good shape. The best crimpers are the ones that have a racheting system that will not release until the proper pressure is put on the crimped terminal, but these crimping tools must be checked periodicly with a go no/go gauge. Overcrimping is as bad as under crimped terminal. Overcrimping cuts the wire and although the terminal looks like a good crimp a number of wires are cut and the terminal is held on mostly by the insulation. On the high end crimping tools, there are identification marks that are on the crimper that leave the same mark on the crimped terminal so the inspector can tell if the terminal was crimped with the right tool. John |
#24
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
BP horizontal attachment
On Fri, 28 Sep 2007 21:16:44 -0400, John wrote:
go than the stamped ones if you can find one used in good shape. The best crimpers are the ones that have a racheting system that will not release until the proper pressure is put on the crimped terminal, but these crimping tools must be checked periodicly with a go no/go gauge. I used such a ratcheting crimper when I was installing Cat6 cabling as part of upgrade of my house to Gigabit Ethernet. I was very impressed with the consistency and quality. i |
#26
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
BP horizontal attachment
Don - must use your Anti-skating tools that keep the stranded wire
free from wicking. That is mil spec requirement since lets say years before the moon. :-) Martin Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/ DoN. Nichols wrote: According to Joseph Gwinn : In article , (DoN. Nichols) wrote: [ ... ] And for the larger terminals -- 8 through 2 Ga, and 1/0 through 4/0 -- I have an electrically powered hydraulic system. I had to attach two terminals to #6 stranded wire many years ago, in the late 1960s. There wasn't space for a mechanical (sidebolt) terminal, and I didn't have a crimper, so I bought the crimp terminals (which were made of copper) and simply soldered them to the wire with a torch and plumbers solder and flux, wiped the flux off with a paper towel, and insulated the barrel with heavy heat-shrink tubing. That can work -- but it can be a bad choice if the terminal is subjected to vibration. The solder wicks up to the insulation and stops right there, and any flex from the vibration is concentrated in that one spot -- resulting in eventual failure at that point. The crimped terminals leave a bit more length of solder-free wire, so the flex occurs over a longer stretch, and the wire lasts longer. And the *good* crimped terminals -- the pre-insulated ones with a P.I.D.G. crimper will collapse the rear of the insulation sleeve to grip the insulation, thus reducing the flex at the terminal. In particular, the AMP terminals for the P.I.D.G. (Pre Insulated Diamond Grip) have a sleeve of metal shim stock around the terminal barrel and inside the insulation, with the last bit folded back to the edge points towards the terminal. This bites into the insulation to grip it more firmly than possible by just collapsing the plastic insulation to form a grip. This is why these terminals are particularly preferred for aircraft applications -- when it is quite awkward if certain electrical connections fail while you are aloft -- and they *never* seem to fail on the ground. :-) Enjoy, DoN. ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#27
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
BP horizontal attachment
We had a set of drawers cabinet - roll around in the R&D lab - that held
drawers in the bottom of different sizes of crimpers and the other dozen held the crimp dies for the many handles. Martin Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/ Ignoramus18262 wrote: On Fri, 28 Sep 2007 21:16:44 -0400, John wrote: go than the stamped ones if you can find one used in good shape. The best crimpers are the ones that have a racheting system that will not release until the proper pressure is put on the crimped terminal, but these crimping tools must be checked periodicly with a go no/go gauge. I used such a ratcheting crimper when I was installing Cat6 cabling as part of upgrade of my house to Gigabit Ethernet. I was very impressed with the consistency and quality. i ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#28
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
BP horizontal attachment
According to John :
"DoN. Nichols" wrote: [ ... ] And the *good* crimped terminals -- the pre-insulated ones with a P.I.D.G. crimper will collapse the rear of the insulation sleeve to grip the insulation, thus reducing the flex at the terminal. In particular, the AMP terminals for the P.I.D.G. (Pre Insulated Diamond Grip) have a sleeve of metal shim stock around the terminal barrel and inside the insulation, with the last bit folded back to the edge points towards the terminal. This bites into the insulation to grip it more firmly than possible by just collapsing the plastic insulation to form a grip. [ ... ] In my experience, the biggest problem with failure of crimped terminals is that the installer did not use a proper crimping device, or the unit was not calibrated with a go no go gauge. The cheap stamped out crimping might be ok for household use but they spring and don't do a secure crimp. They are -- at best -- emergency field repair tools, and the crimp should be re-done with a proper tool when you are back home (or wherever the proper tool is). A good T & B forged crimping tool is a lot better way to go than the stamped ones if you can find one used in good shape. The best crimpers are the ones that have a racheting system that will not release until the proper pressure is put on the crimped terminal, This describes the AMP tools which I was suggesting upthread. but these crimping tools must be checked periodicly with a go no/go gauge. Overcrimping is as bad as under crimped terminal. Overcrimping cuts the wire and although the terminal looks like a good crimp a number of wires are cut and the terminal is held on mostly by the insulation. On the high end crimping tools, there are identification marks that are on the crimper that leave the same mark on the crimped terminal so the inspector can tell if the terminal was crimped with the right tool. Right -- red (22-16 ga) is one dot, blue (16-14 ga) is two dots, yellow (12-10 ga) is back to one dot, but there is sufficient difference in size so there is no way that a terminal crimped with one size of one dot tool instead of the proper one dot tool would pass the simplest visual inspection. Once you get past 10 ga, the rest (all hydraulic in my set) emboss the actual gauge number in the insulation barrel, because it is now big enough to read easily. Enjoy, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#29
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
BP horizontal attachment
According to Martin H. Eastburn :
Don - must use your Anti-skating tools that keep the stranded wire free from wicking. That is mil spec requirement since lets say years before the moon. :-) You mean anti-wicking tweezers? Yes, but I don't think that I have seen any large enough for the 6 ga wire which he described as having soldered terminals to -- and he certainly did not mention the use of such tooling. If you *must* use solder -- such as when connecting to the solder-tail terminals on a relay socket or something similar, then the anti-wicking tools are mandatory -- at least in any kind of application where the assembly is subject to vibration, and a person's life depends on the circuit continuing to function. Enjoy, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#30
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
BP horizontal attachment
Yea them - several terms I suppose. My George C. Marshall Space Flight Center
booklet from Quality division circa 1961 gives them a general term of Heat Shunt. Can be wide tweeters or the custom sets by gage wire as Don mentioned. The skating term - is Air force. Solder wicks up the strands - or skates. (I suppose). You could wrap a bunch of tin foil tightly around the end - Martin Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/ DoN. Nichols wrote: According to Martin H. Eastburn : Don - must use your Anti-skating tools that keep the stranded wire free from wicking. That is mil spec requirement since lets say years before the moon. :-) You mean anti-wicking tweezers? Yes, but I don't think that I have seen any large enough for the 6 ga wire which he described as having soldered terminals to -- and he certainly did not mention the use of such tooling. If you *must* use solder -- such as when connecting to the solder-tail terminals on a relay socket or something similar, then the anti-wicking tools are mandatory -- at least in any kind of application where the assembly is subject to vibration, and a person's life depends on the circuit continuing to function. Enjoy, DoN. ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
#31
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
BP horizontal attachment
|
#32
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
|
|||
|
|||
BP horizontal attachment
In article ,
"Martin H. Eastburn" wrote: That is logical - often done in cooler areas. How about silver solder. The lower temp versions are just perfect. Then if the joint gets hot due to heat sinking an arc the joint will be solid for a higher duty cycle. But the insulation will have long since burned away? The code, which is very conservative, allowed use of soft solder. I asked a friend who is an electrician and contractor if solder was still allowed by the code, and he said that he believes it still is. My copy of the code is old, so I cannot check. Joe Gwinn Martin Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/ Joseph Gwinn wrote: In article , (DoN. Nichols) wrote: According to Ned Simmons : [ ... ] I have a several of the AMP crimpers that DoN mentioned, and while they do an excellent job, I wouldn't want to make too many terminations in 10-12 wire with one. The design seems perfect for causing a repetitive stress injury. There are electric, pneumatic, or hydraulic ones using the same crimp head if you are doing a lot of terminals at one sitting -- e.g. production line work. I even saw one which was battery powered hydraulic on eBay recently -- Bundy, but with the AMP crimp head for the 10-12 ga terminals. I use the smaller ones for D-sub pins and CPC connectors quite a lot, and even they are a bit awkward. I've had no problems with any of the smaller ones -- but then I don't sit all day crimping terminals. And for the larger terminals -- 8 through 2 Ga, and 1/0 through 4/0 -- I have an electrically powered hydraulic system. I had to attach two terminals to #6 stranded wire many years ago, in the late 1960s. There wasn't space for a mechanical (sidebolt) terminal, and I didn't have a crimper, so I bought the crimp terminals (which were made of copper) and simply soldered them to the wire with a torch and plumbers solder and flux, wiped the flux off with a paper towel, and insulated the barrel with heavy heat-shrink tubing. The design of the crimp terminals made a dandy solder-pot terminal, so it was easy. I don't recall the details, but I probably pre-tinned the wire and the socket, assembled them, and sweated them together. Code still allowed solder then; don't know if code still allows solder. Joe Gwinn ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
opening attachment | Electronics Repair | |||
Hornamill attachment | Metalworking | |||
Copy attachment? | Woodturning | |||
THIS ATTACHMENT CONTAINS A VIRUS | Woodturning | |||
Logan taper attachment attachment | Metalworking |