Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Default Need tips on single point threading

Well, it is once again time for me to use an engine lathe to single point
thread. It seems to be something I do every couple years so I've never
realy mastered it.

I'm restoring a Clausing 6903 lathe that uses a varidrive.

The driven sheave has a crack in it.
http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/6...it_a_crack.JPG

My bud tried to gas weld it with cast iron rod but it wouldn't close.

http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/6903_gas_welding.JPG

Not much of a picture, cell phone camera though a welding helmet.

So then we tried brazing.

http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/6...rning_down.JPG
http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/6...wn_brazing.JPG

It looks like the crack filled but since gas welding didn't work I don't
feel like trusting it. There could be dirty metal in crack. So plan #2
forms.

I'll replace the hub by turning it off, boring and threading sheave for a
1045 steel hub followed by loctiting with 271 and driving two pins in mating
diameter.

Here is a drawing.

http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/C...ave_repair.pdf

So last night I took a practice pass at threading to get my brain
configured. Compound at 29 degrees, crossfeed set at 0, infeed with
compound, hand on halfnut lever and pulling out and pulling up on lever at
end of thread.

I ended up blowing a pull out once. There wasn't a shoulder and if you
looked at drawing their will be one. The only other thing I can think of to
improve my chances is to put a dab of paint marker on shafting so I can have
a timing mark to pull out.

I'm open to suggestions on any other tricks to thread up to a shoulder, I've
already put in an undercut and the slowest speed is 45 rpm and the machine
is a Leblond servoshift so going out of gear at the last part and cranking
by hand isn't an option.

Thanks,

Wes




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Default Need tips on single point threading

I works to do it backwards on my 10EE. Put cutting tool on back side, lathe
in reverse. Stop machine with 1/2 nut engaged right at shoulder, you can
fiddle till its just right. Turn compound in to make cut. Turn lathe on in
reverse, it threads from the shoulder out. You need a small narrow groove
right at the shoulder to have a spot to advance the compound when the
machine is off.


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Default Need tips on single point threading

"Karl Townsend" wrote:

I works to do it backwards on my 10EE. Put cutting tool on back side, lathe
in reverse. Stop machine with 1/2 nut engaged right at shoulder, you can
fiddle till its just right. Turn compound in to make cut. Turn lathe on in
reverse, it threads from the shoulder out. You need a small narrow groove
right at the shoulder to have a spot to advance the compound when the
machine is off.


That sounds much more likely to achieve success. Since I planned in the
groove, I'm all set.

Thanks,

Wes
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Default Need tips on single point threading

Wes wrote:

Well, it is once again time for me to use an engine lathe to single point
thread. It seems to be something I do every couple years so I've never
realy mastered it.

I'm restoring a Clausing 6903 lathe that uses a varidrive.

The driven sheave has a crack in it.
http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/6...it_a_crack.JPG

My bud tried to gas weld it with cast iron rod but it wouldn't close.

http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/6903_gas_welding.JPG

Not much of a picture, cell phone camera though a welding helmet.

So then we tried brazing.

http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/6...rning_down.JPG
http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/6...wn_brazing.JPG

It looks like the crack filled but since gas welding didn't work I don't
feel like trusting it. There could be dirty metal in crack. So plan #2
forms.

I'll replace the hub by turning it off, boring and threading sheave for a
1045 steel hub followed by loctiting with 271 and driving two pins in mating
diameter.

Here is a drawing.

http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/C...ave_repair.pdf

So last night I took a practice pass at threading to get my brain
configured. Compound at 29 degrees, crossfeed set at 0, infeed with
compound, hand on halfnut lever and pulling out and pulling up on lever at
end of thread.

I ended up blowing a pull out once. There wasn't a shoulder and if you
looked at drawing their will be one. The only other thing I can think of to
improve my chances is to put a dab of paint marker on shafting so I can have
a timing mark to pull out.

I'm open to suggestions on any other tricks to thread up to a shoulder, I've
already put in an undercut and the slowest speed is 45 rpm and the machine
is a Leblond servoshift so going out of gear at the last part and cranking
by hand isn't an option.


A lot of guys in the magazines advocate adding a hand crank to the back side
of the headstock spindle, and slowly cranking it towards the end of each
pass. They use an expanding rod arrangement to lock a shaft inside the
headstock tube, the shaft of course having a crank handle fitted.

GWE
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Default Need tips on single point threading

On Fri, 31 Aug 2007 13:46:23 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote:

Wes wrote:

Well, it is once again time for me to use an engine lathe to single point
thread. It seems to be something I do every couple years so I've never
realy mastered it.

I'm restoring a Clausing 6903 lathe that uses a varidrive.

The driven sheave has a crack in it.
http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/6...it_a_crack.JPG

My bud tried to gas weld it with cast iron rod but it wouldn't close.

http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/6903_gas_welding.JPG

Not much of a picture, cell phone camera though a welding helmet.

So then we tried brazing.

http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/6...rning_down.JPG
http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/6...wn_brazing.JPG

It looks like the crack filled but since gas welding didn't work I don't
feel like trusting it. There could be dirty metal in crack. So plan #2
forms.

I'll replace the hub by turning it off, boring and threading sheave for a
1045 steel hub followed by loctiting with 271 and driving two pins in mating
diameter.

Here is a drawing.

http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/C...ave_repair.pdf

So last night I took a practice pass at threading to get my brain
configured. Compound at 29 degrees, crossfeed set at 0, infeed with
compound, hand on halfnut lever and pulling out and pulling up on lever at
end of thread.

I ended up blowing a pull out once. There wasn't a shoulder and if you
looked at drawing their will be one. The only other thing I can think of to
improve my chances is to put a dab of paint marker on shafting so I can have
a timing mark to pull out.

I'm open to suggestions on any other tricks to thread up to a shoulder, I've
already put in an undercut and the slowest speed is 45 rpm and the machine
is a Leblond servoshift so going out of gear at the last part and cranking
by hand isn't an option.


A lot of guys in the magazines advocate adding a hand crank to the back side
of the headstock spindle, and slowly cranking it towards the end of each
pass. They use an expanding rod arrangement to lock a shaft inside the
headstock tube, the shaft of course having a crank handle fitted.

GWE

=======
For one way to do this click on
http://mcduffee-associates.us/machin...ndle_crank.htm

One word of warning -- if possible disconnect or loosen the drive
belts as the crank will whack the crap out of you or anyone in
the area if you turn the lathe on.


Unka' George [George McDuffee]
============
Merchants have no country.
The mere spot they stand on
does not constitute so strong an attachment
as that from which they draw their gains.

Thomas Jefferson (1743-1826),
U.S. president. Letter, 17 March 1814.


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Default Need tips on single point threading

Hey Wes,,

If threading fully to a shoulder is absolutely necessary, then
sometimes it is possible to add the shoulder later by some means.
Depending on the "meat" forming the shoulder, it is possible to do a
trepanning cut that allows the thread to actually go BEYOND the
shoulder face.
Another thought is to undercut the "nut" part so that the face of the
nut contacts the shoulder, but there is a half a turn or so turned off
the nut, and the shaft thread can stop a half turn "short" of the
shoulder.

Good luck. Take care.

Brian Lawson,
Bothwell, Ontario.

ps....I realize the drawing was made only for your own purposes, but
for the rest of us to view it is nice if all the "text" part is set in
the same direction, and it is also standard practice to indicate the
threaded part(s) with an arrow and text describing it, rather than
just with dimensions
eg. 2-1/2 - 14 TPI -----------

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX



On Fri, 31 Aug 2007 15:54:29 -0400, Wes wrote:

Well, it is once again time for me to use an engine lathe to single point
thread. It seems to be something I do every couple years so I've never
realy mastered it.

I'm restoring a Clausing 6903 lathe that uses a varidrive.

The driven sheave has a crack in it.
http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/6...it_a_crack.JPG

My bud tried to gas weld it with cast iron rod but it wouldn't close.

http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/6903_gas_welding.JPG

Not much of a picture, cell phone camera though a welding helmet.

So then we tried brazing.

http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/6...rning_down.JPG
http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/6...wn_brazing.JPG

It looks like the crack filled but since gas welding didn't work I don't
feel like trusting it. There could be dirty metal in crack. So plan #2
forms.

I'll replace the hub by turning it off, boring and threading sheave for a
1045 steel hub followed by loctiting with 271 and driving two pins in mating
diameter.

Here is a drawing.

http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/C...ave_repair.pdf

So last night I took a practice pass at threading to get my brain
configured. Compound at 29 degrees, crossfeed set at 0, infeed with
compound, hand on halfnut lever and pulling out and pulling up on lever at
end of thread.

I ended up blowing a pull out once. There wasn't a shoulder and if you
looked at drawing their will be one. The only other thing I can think of to
improve my chances is to put a dab of paint marker on shafting so I can have
a timing mark to pull out.

I'm open to suggestions on any other tricks to thread up to a shoulder, I've
already put in an undercut and the slowest speed is 45 rpm and the machine
is a Leblond servoshift so going out of gear at the last part and cranking
by hand isn't an option.

Thanks,

Wes



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Default Need tips on single point threading

"Robert Swinney" wrote:

Grant sez:

"A lot of guys in the magazines advocate adding a hand crank to the back side
of the headstock spindle, and slowly cranking it towards the end of each
pass. They use an expanding rod arrangement to lock a shaft inside the
headstock tube, the shaft of course having a crank handle fitted."

Yep ! Count me amongst them. I made a nice hand crank from a HF tailpipe extender to fit back side
of the headstock tube. Also made a 2nd one for the 5-C collet draw tube. They are great for
careful threading in either direction as it is almost impossible to make any speed-related mistakes.

Bob (slower is better sometimes) Swinney


Well the lathe that I have access to won't hand crank worth a chit unless I
leave it in neutral from the start. I'm curious about the lathe I'm fixing.
Since the motor and varidrive is out, I wonder if threading the whole shaft
at home using a crank is an option. I only need to turn .75" at 14 tpi.

I'll look into the feasability in the morning. It isn't like tying up the
lathe until I get done is a problem.

Any tips on making an expanding arbor for spindle? Mine is 1 3/8" id.

Wes
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Default Need tips on single point threading

Wes wrote:
"Robert Swinney" wrote:

Grant sez:

"A lot of guys in the magazines advocate adding a hand crank to the back side
of the headstock spindle, and slowly cranking it towards the end of each
pass. They use an expanding rod arrangement to lock a shaft inside the
headstock tube, the shaft of course having a crank handle fitted."

Yep ! Count me amongst them. I made a nice hand crank from a HF tailpipe extender to fit back side
of the headstock tube. Also made a 2nd one for the 5-C collet draw tube. They are great for
careful threading in either direction as it is almost impossible to make any speed-related mistakes.

Bob (slower is better sometimes) Swinney


Well the lathe that I have access to won't hand crank worth a chit unless I
leave it in neutral from the start. I'm curious about the lathe I'm fixing.
Since the motor and varidrive is out, I wonder if threading the whole shaft
at home using a crank is an option. I only need to turn .75" at 14 tpi.

I'll look into the feasability in the morning. It isn't like tying up the
lathe until I get done is a problem.

Any tips on making an expanding arbor for spindle? Mine is 1 3/8" id.


Some years ago, I improvised an expanding arbor from a Dynabolt
(is that the US term? Expanding bolt for concrete).
A strip of flat for the crank, & an old wooden handle completed it.
Worked fine.


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Default Need tips on single point threading

Wes wrote:
Well, it is once again time for me to use an engine lathe to single point
thread. It seems to be something I do every couple years so I've never
realy mastered it.



Maybe buy a friend a beer to do it then and don't bother to learn,
unless you really want to.
Randy
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Default Need tips on single point threading

Wes, there is a shop-made hand crank near the bottom of my 9x20" lathe page,
for an idea that was fairly quick to fabricate.
http://www.kwagmire.com/shop/lathe/9...cessories.html

I don't know what this type of joint/capture device is called, but I
remember it being used to secure the handlebar stem on an old bicycle.
When the center bolt is tightened, the wedge-action locks the crank arbor in
the spindle ID.

The center hole was drilled, the angled cut was made, then the hole was
filed at the clamping end to allow the drawbolt (allthread) to shift
sideways to allow the end piece to pull off-axis. Since the spindle
pass-thru hole is under 1" on this small lathe, filing the center hole
seemed necessary for using a 3/8" drawbolt.

The handwheel knob is a ball bearing assembly with a short piece of nylon
round stock pressed into the bore, drilled and tapped for a 1/4"-20 bolt.
I had tried using an aluminum bar with a longer offset for the crank, but it
was a bit cumbersome, and the handwheel proved to be very easy to turn while
wathching the threading operation.

The handwheel isn't left in the spindle, as it's very badly off-balance. I
pull the power cord from the wall outlet and disengage the drive belt when
using the hand crank.

For the short offset of the handwheel, and because the lathe is small, the
hand threading method doesn't require a lot of effort.

WB
..........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html


"Wes" wrote in message
...

Well the lathe that I have access to won't hand crank worth a chit unless
I
leave it in neutral from the start. I'm curious about the lathe I'm
fixing.
Since the motor and varidrive is out, I wonder if threading the whole
shaft
at home using a crank is an option. I only need to turn .75" at 14 tpi.

I'll look into the feasability in the morning. It isn't like tying up the
lathe until I get done is a problem.

Any tips on making an expanding arbor for spindle? Mine is 1 3/8" id.

Wes



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com



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Default Need tips on single point threading

Randy Replogle wrote:

Wes wrote:
Well, it is once again time for me to use an engine lathe to single point
thread. It seems to be something I do every couple years so I've never
realy mastered it.



Maybe buy a friend a beer to do it then and don't bother to learn,
unless you really want to.
Randy



Well, the lathe that works is at work. My friends near by don't have
lathes. I'm gonna do it but I figured I'd draw on the wisdom of the group
for any ideas to improve my chances.

The whole point of aquiring the lathe was to be able to build stuff. Screws
are high on the list. As soon as I get it going, I want to make a new cross
feed screw for my bridgeport but that is questions for another time....

Wes
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Default Need tips on single point threading

Mark Rand wrote:

If the lathe has a bottom speed of 45rpm, just practice a bit more. You should
be able to get better than half a turn repeatability if there aren't any
distractions.


I'm thinking a dab of paint marker on the shaft and additional lighting
would help my chances out a lot. I'll practice a bit more and get some
muscle memory going. Noticed that the lathe I'm repairing engages the half
nuts by pulling up. The one I'm using engages by pulling down. I wonder
which way of engaging the nuts is standard?

My co-worker that was showing me a few things floundered when he pulled the
wrong way out of habit. In the past he has run some very big machines
though he doesn't do machining where we work. We fix em after the operators
break them.

Wes
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Default Need tips on single point threading

"Wild_Bill" wrote:

I don't know what this type of joint/capture device is called, but I
remember it being used to secure the handlebar stem on an old bicycle.
When the center bolt is tightened, the wedge-action locks the crank arbor in
the spindle ID.


A simple wedge clamp. I've repaired enough bicycles I should have come up
with that.

Thanks

Wes
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Wes wrote:

Randy Replogle wrote:


Wes wrote:

Well, it is once again time for me to use an engine lathe to single point
thread. It seems to be something I do every couple years so I've never
realy mastered it.



Maybe buy a friend a beer to do it then and don't bother to learn,
unless you really want to.
Randy




Well, the lathe that works is at work. My friends near by don't have
lathes. I'm gonna do it but I figured I'd draw on the wisdom of the group
for any ideas to improve my chances.

The whole point of aquiring the lathe was to be able to build stuff. Screws
are high on the list. As soon as I get it going, I want to make a new cross
feed screw for my bridgeport but that is questions for another time....

Wes




Practice on a straight bar to pull out at the same point. The white
mark on the chuck will make it a lot easier to hit the same spot each
time. 45 rpm is more than one second per rev. Ive seen really
experienced lathe ops. run up to a shoulder at a lot faster rpm than that.

John

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Default Need tips on single point threading

I've been able to disengage the half nuts when the tool reaches a
1/16" cutoff tool groove by attaching a dial indicator to the ways
with the plunger touching the carriage, and watching the needle
approach one of the adjustable marker tabs.

jw



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Default Need tips on single point threading

According to Wes :

[ ... ]

Well the lathe that I have access to won't hand crank worth a chit unless I
leave it in neutral from the start.


If you're going to hang a hand crank on it, it *better* be in
neutral through the whole task.

And if you expect to be switching between hand cranked and
power, take the time to make the hand crank assembly well balanced, or
the lathe will be hopping all over the place. Ideally, I would suggest
a spring-loaded folding crank so it won't be out there bashing at your
hands or anything else which gets close when you have power applied.

Though applying power while you've got a hand crank mounted is
still asking for lots of trouble.

I'm curious about the lathe I'm fixing.
Since the motor and varidrive is out, I wonder if threading the whole shaft
at home using a crank is an option. I only need to turn .75" at 14 tpi.


It might well be. If the lathe is belt drive, disengage the pin
which transfers from the pulley to the bull gear, and leave the back
gears disengaged and you should have little trouble hand cranking. (And
be sure to back the cutting tool out of the thread before you hand crank
it back to the start position. (Though the real need for the hand crank
is when you are doing metric threading on an imperial leadscrew, where
you have to back up without disengaging the half nuts to avoid losing
your thread position.)

If it is a gearhead lathe, however, I'm not sure how to make it
totally neutral.

I'll look into the feasability in the morning. It isn't like tying up the
lathe until I get done is a problem.

Any tips on making an expanding arbor for spindle? Mine is 1 3/8" id.


Others have already suggested the expanding grip used for
bicycle handlebars. Maybe make three splits instead of two so it is a
bit better balanced.

Good Luck,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
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Default Need tips on single point threading

Jim Wilkins wrote:

I've been able to disengage the half nuts when the tool reaches a
1/16" cutoff tool groove by attaching a dial indicator to the ways
with the plunger touching the carriage, and watching the needle
approach one of the adjustable marker tabs.

jw


Thats another good way to do it, better than the one I suggested. I
forgot about that one. Let the dial go around at least a full turn so
you can get ready to pull the handle.


John
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Default Need tips on single point threading

DoN. Nichols wrote:

If it is a gearhead lathe, however, I'm not sure how to make it
totally neutral.

Good Luck,
DoN.


On the Clausing / Metosas you just put the 1 2 3 gear shift
between numbers and the spindle turns very easily,
...lew...
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Default Need tips on single point threading

On Sep 2, 2:22 am, Wes wrote:
...
Any tips on making an expanding arbor for spindle? Mine is 1 3/8" id.
Wes


I just checked - an expanding-split-ring 5C collet stop opens almost
far enough to lock into the closer tube. Wrap a sheet metal shim
around it and turn it with a socket wrench which you can remove to run
the lathe.

jw

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Default Need tips on single point threading

Jim Wilkins wrote:

I've been able to disengage the half nuts when the tool reaches a
1/16" cutoff tool groove by attaching a dial indicator to the ways
with the plunger touching the carriage, and watching the needle
approach one of the adjustable marker tabs.

jw


I told my coworker about that one and how I wanted to try it. He pulled a
little aluminum casting with some magnets glued in that his buddy made for
him with a dial indicator mounted. Sweet. I didn't have much time to check
it out but I did make a few air passes at 14 tpi 45 rpm with the indicator
and could pull out / unlock in 0.005" travel worst case.


Now where did I put my neodymium magnets, I want to make one of those for my
self.....

Wes


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Default Need tips on single point threading

On Wed, 05 Sep 2007 15:06:04 -0400, Wes
wrote:

Jim Wilkins wrote:

I've been able to disengage the half nuts when the tool reaches a
1/16" cutoff tool groove by attaching a dial indicator to the ways
with the plunger touching the carriage, and watching the needle
approach one of the adjustable marker tabs.

jw


I told my coworker about that one and how I wanted to try it. He pulled a
little aluminum casting with some magnets glued in that his buddy made for
him with a dial indicator mounted. Sweet. I didn't have much time to check
it out but I did make a few air passes at 14 tpi 45 rpm with the indicator
and could pull out / unlock in 0.005" travel worst case.


Now where did I put my neodymium magnets, I want to make one of those for my
self.....


That sounds simple enough Wes, rather than re-inventing the
wheel how about some pictures of it when you get a minute.

It sounds like it would be useful to have around for various
tasks.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
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Default Need tips on single point threading

On Wed, 05 Sep 2007 15:06:04 -0400, Wes wrote:

Jim Wilkins wrote:

I've been able to disengage the half nuts when the tool reaches a
1/16" cutoff tool groove by attaching a dial indicator to the ways
with the plunger touching the carriage, and watching the needle
approach one of the adjustable marker tabs.

jw


I told my coworker about that one and how I wanted to try it. He pulled a
little aluminum casting with some magnets glued in that his buddy made for
him with a dial indicator mounted. Sweet. I didn't have much time to check
it out but I did make a few air passes at 14 tpi 45 rpm with the indicator
and could pull out / unlock in 0.005" travel worst case.


Now where did I put my neodymium magnets, I want to make one of those for my
self.....

Wes

=======
or click on
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...ProductID=2531
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?P...MITEM=891-5401
http://www.wttool.com/product-exec/p...Indicator_Back
http://www.hhip.com/products/product...tID=401-0005-5
http://www.phase2plus.com/details.as...cators&i d=95

for some more ideas see
http://www.statecollegecentral.com/m...the/MLA-8.html
http://cgi.ebay.com/13-Jet-Lathe-Dia...QQcmdZViewItem
http://www.homemetalshopclub.org/news/apr02/apr02.html
scroll down about 2/3 and also see cross slide travel indicator.
This is good when you "snap retract" the tool out of the cut and
need to go back to the propper depth for another pass.

You do know about setting the compound for 28/29 degrees and
using this to set the depth so you cut only on the leading edge
of the tool?


Unka' George [George McDuffee]
============
Merchants have no country.
The mere spot they stand on
does not constitute so strong an attachment
as that from which they draw their gains.

Thomas Jefferson (1743-1826),
U.S. president. Letter, 17 March 1814.
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Default Need tips on single point threading

On Sep 5, 3:24 pm, Leon Fisk wrote:
On Wed, 05 Sep 2007 15:06:04 -0400, Wes
wrote:





Jim Wilkins wrote:


I've been able to disengage the half nuts when the tool reaches a
1/16" cutoff tool groove by attaching a dial indicator to the ways
with the plunger touching the carriage, and watching the needle
approach one of the adjustable marker tabs.


jw


I told my coworker about that one and how I wanted to try it. He pulled a
little aluminum casting with some magnets glued in that his buddy made for
him with a dial indicator mounted. Sweet. I didn't have much time to check
it out but I did make a few air passes at 14 tpi 45 rpm with the indicator
and could pull out / unlock in 0.005" travel worst case.


Now where did I put my neodymium magnets, I want to make one of those for my
self.....


That sounds simple enough Wes, rather than re-inventing the
wheel how about some pictures of it when you get a minute.

It sounds like it would be useful to have around for various
tasks.

--
Leon Fisk


http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...ProductID=1642

jw


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Default Need tips on single point threading

Leon Fisk wrote:

That sounds simple enough Wes, rather than re-inventing the
wheel how about some pictures of it when you get a minute.

It sounds like it would be useful to have around for various
tasks.



http://wess.freeshell.org/usenet/rec...icator_vga.jpg

Lost part of it so
http://wess.freeshell.org/usenet/rec...se_closeup.jpg

Those partial threads are because I took my first pass and realized the last
user of the lathe hand screwed the compound full forward and jamned it to
take out play in the screw. When I cranked it back and reset over first
pass that made the point where the indicator would hit 12 o'clock some
distance back.

I had no problem stopping and pulling out 0.005 inch travel.

I have a base of my own roughed out, need to pick up some magnets and epoxy
tomorrow.

Wes

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Default Need tips on single point threading

On Fri, 07 Sep 2007 09:59:08 -0400, Wes
wrote:

Leon Fisk wrote:

That sounds simple enough Wes, rather than re-inventing the
wheel how about some pictures of it when you get a minute.

It sounds like it would be useful to have around for various
tasks.



http://wess.freeshell.org/usenet/rec...icator_vga.jpg

Lost part of it so
http://wess.freeshell.org/usenet/rec...se_closeup.jpg

Those partial threads are because I took my first pass and realized the last
user of the lathe hand screwed the compound full forward and jamned it to
take out play in the screw. When I cranked it back and reset over first
pass that made the point where the indicator would hit 12 o'clock some
distance back.

I had no problem stopping and pulling out 0.005 inch travel.

I have a base of my own roughed out, need to pick up some magnets and epoxy
tomorrow.



Thanks Wes.

I'll probably end up making something for myself and it is
always nice to see what others have thought up first. I
usually end up with something slightly different, a
combination of the easiest/best ideas and some of my own
input.

--
Leon Fisk
Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b
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Default Need tips on single point threading

Leon Fisk wrote:

I have a base of my own roughed out, need to pick up some magnets and epoxy
tomorrow.



Thanks Wes.

I'll probably end up making something for myself and it is
always nice to see what others have thought up first. I
usually end up with something slightly different, a
combination of the easiest/best ideas and some of my own
input.


That is what makes it yours.

I remembered I had some round ceramic magnets that I stuck to the side of my
snowblower years ago so I wouldn't loose them. I've stared at them for
close to a decade wondering when am I going to yank the package off and use
them. I must have got them cheap

My co-workers base had hard drive magnents in it that made it way hard to
bump the indicator. One ceramic magnet holds it against the indicator
spring, three seemed just about right.

The only aluminum I had was a piece of previously used 2" round stock so I
turned it into some flat stock. Aluminum on a bridgeport with carbide is
like cutting whipped cream.

I used a two flute end mill to make pockets for the magnets.

http://wess.freeshell.org/usenet/rec...agnet_side.jpg

Pardon the crappy cell phone picture but it is what I had to work with atm.
Since my indicator has a lug on back and no barrel to clamp on the top I had
to do it this way.

http://wess.freeshell.org/usenet/rec...se_profile.jpg

That is an Enco indicator. So old it was made in Japan back when we
outsourced there.

My taps and epoxy are at work so I'll finish this up during lunch or in the
morning after I get back from a machine tool auction.

I need to google up info on a Kemp Smith Horizontal and a John Steptoe
shaper.

Wes
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Default Need tips on single point threading

Brian Lawson wrote:

Hey Wes,,

If threading fully to a shoulder is absolutely necessary, then
sometimes it is possible to add the shoulder later by some means.
Depending on the "meat" forming the shoulder, it is possible to do a
trepanning cut that allows the thread to actually go BEYOND the
shoulder face.


I'm considering adding a ring against the shoulder to get full length
engagement of threads. I'm still practicing my ID / OD threading skills
since I do not want to damage the article I'm trying to fix.

Wes
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Default Need tips on single point threading

Jim Wilkins wrote:

I've been able to disengage the half nuts when the tool reaches a
1/16" cutoff tool groove by attaching a dial indicator to the ways
with the plunger touching the carriage, and watching the needle
approach one of the adjustable marker tabs.

jw



This indicator idea has been working great. Thanks a bunch.

Today I did some ID threading on some scrap using the indicator to work
things out. I was cutting 20tpi for an ID thread to mate with a 5C collet.
I was hitting my pullout in about a one or two thou. I was thinking of
going up a step on speed but why push it.

Since I had practiced a bunch doing OD threading, I was developing muscle
memory of pulling out CCW as I disengaged the half nuts.

So my first thought of mounting the bar insert up facing me was discarded
for insert down, backside of part. I don't want to have to do a CW pullout
since my muscles just got trained to go CCW and I really hate reversing
reflexes if I can.

I really don't need to see the insert to ID thread, now CCW is the way to
pull out when I hit 12 o'clock on indicator and when I decided I wanted to
look at insert it was easy since the bar was on an Aloris post.

The other nice thing is that the compound did not need to be changed from
the angle it was at of OD threading.

Wes



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