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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Need tips on single point threading
Well, it is once again time for me to use an engine lathe to single point
thread. It seems to be something I do every couple years so I've never realy mastered it. I'm restoring a Clausing 6903 lathe that uses a varidrive. The driven sheave has a crack in it. http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/6...it_a_crack.JPG My bud tried to gas weld it with cast iron rod but it wouldn't close. http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/6903_gas_welding.JPG Not much of a picture, cell phone camera though a welding helmet. So then we tried brazing. http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/6...rning_down.JPG http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/6...wn_brazing.JPG It looks like the crack filled but since gas welding didn't work I don't feel like trusting it. There could be dirty metal in crack. So plan #2 forms. I'll replace the hub by turning it off, boring and threading sheave for a 1045 steel hub followed by loctiting with 271 and driving two pins in mating diameter. Here is a drawing. http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/C...ave_repair.pdf So last night I took a practice pass at threading to get my brain configured. Compound at 29 degrees, crossfeed set at 0, infeed with compound, hand on halfnut lever and pulling out and pulling up on lever at end of thread. I ended up blowing a pull out once. There wasn't a shoulder and if you looked at drawing their will be one. The only other thing I can think of to improve my chances is to put a dab of paint marker on shafting so I can have a timing mark to pull out. I'm open to suggestions on any other tricks to thread up to a shoulder, I've already put in an undercut and the slowest speed is 45 rpm and the machine is a Leblond servoshift so going out of gear at the last part and cranking by hand isn't an option. Thanks, Wes |
#2
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Need tips on single point threading
I works to do it backwards on my 10EE. Put cutting tool on back side, lathe
in reverse. Stop machine with 1/2 nut engaged right at shoulder, you can fiddle till its just right. Turn compound in to make cut. Turn lathe on in reverse, it threads from the shoulder out. You need a small narrow groove right at the shoulder to have a spot to advance the compound when the machine is off. |
#3
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Need tips on single point threading
"Karl Townsend" wrote:
I works to do it backwards on my 10EE. Put cutting tool on back side, lathe in reverse. Stop machine with 1/2 nut engaged right at shoulder, you can fiddle till its just right. Turn compound in to make cut. Turn lathe on in reverse, it threads from the shoulder out. You need a small narrow groove right at the shoulder to have a spot to advance the compound when the machine is off. That sounds much more likely to achieve success. Since I planned in the groove, I'm all set. Thanks, Wes |
#4
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Need tips on single point threading
Wes wrote:
Well, it is once again time for me to use an engine lathe to single point thread. It seems to be something I do every couple years so I've never realy mastered it. I'm restoring a Clausing 6903 lathe that uses a varidrive. The driven sheave has a crack in it. http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/6...it_a_crack.JPG My bud tried to gas weld it with cast iron rod but it wouldn't close. http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/6903_gas_welding.JPG Not much of a picture, cell phone camera though a welding helmet. So then we tried brazing. http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/6...rning_down.JPG http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/6...wn_brazing.JPG It looks like the crack filled but since gas welding didn't work I don't feel like trusting it. There could be dirty metal in crack. So plan #2 forms. I'll replace the hub by turning it off, boring and threading sheave for a 1045 steel hub followed by loctiting with 271 and driving two pins in mating diameter. Here is a drawing. http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/C...ave_repair.pdf So last night I took a practice pass at threading to get my brain configured. Compound at 29 degrees, crossfeed set at 0, infeed with compound, hand on halfnut lever and pulling out and pulling up on lever at end of thread. I ended up blowing a pull out once. There wasn't a shoulder and if you looked at drawing their will be one. The only other thing I can think of to improve my chances is to put a dab of paint marker on shafting so I can have a timing mark to pull out. I'm open to suggestions on any other tricks to thread up to a shoulder, I've already put in an undercut and the slowest speed is 45 rpm and the machine is a Leblond servoshift so going out of gear at the last part and cranking by hand isn't an option. A lot of guys in the magazines advocate adding a hand crank to the back side of the headstock spindle, and slowly cranking it towards the end of each pass. They use an expanding rod arrangement to lock a shaft inside the headstock tube, the shaft of course having a crank handle fitted. GWE |
#5
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Need tips on single point threading
On Fri, 31 Aug 2007 13:46:23 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote: Wes wrote: Well, it is once again time for me to use an engine lathe to single point thread. It seems to be something I do every couple years so I've never realy mastered it. I'm restoring a Clausing 6903 lathe that uses a varidrive. The driven sheave has a crack in it. http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/6...it_a_crack.JPG My bud tried to gas weld it with cast iron rod but it wouldn't close. http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/6903_gas_welding.JPG Not much of a picture, cell phone camera though a welding helmet. So then we tried brazing. http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/6...rning_down.JPG http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/6...wn_brazing.JPG It looks like the crack filled but since gas welding didn't work I don't feel like trusting it. There could be dirty metal in crack. So plan #2 forms. I'll replace the hub by turning it off, boring and threading sheave for a 1045 steel hub followed by loctiting with 271 and driving two pins in mating diameter. Here is a drawing. http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/C...ave_repair.pdf So last night I took a practice pass at threading to get my brain configured. Compound at 29 degrees, crossfeed set at 0, infeed with compound, hand on halfnut lever and pulling out and pulling up on lever at end of thread. I ended up blowing a pull out once. There wasn't a shoulder and if you looked at drawing their will be one. The only other thing I can think of to improve my chances is to put a dab of paint marker on shafting so I can have a timing mark to pull out. I'm open to suggestions on any other tricks to thread up to a shoulder, I've already put in an undercut and the slowest speed is 45 rpm and the machine is a Leblond servoshift so going out of gear at the last part and cranking by hand isn't an option. A lot of guys in the magazines advocate adding a hand crank to the back side of the headstock spindle, and slowly cranking it towards the end of each pass. They use an expanding rod arrangement to lock a shaft inside the headstock tube, the shaft of course having a crank handle fitted. GWE ======= For one way to do this click on http://mcduffee-associates.us/machin...ndle_crank.htm One word of warning -- if possible disconnect or loosen the drive belts as the crank will whack the crap out of you or anyone in the area if you turn the lathe on. Unka' George [George McDuffee] ============ Merchants have no country. The mere spot they stand on does not constitute so strong an attachment as that from which they draw their gains. Thomas Jefferson (1743-1826), U.S. president. Letter, 17 March 1814. |
#6
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Need tips on single point threading
Hey Wes,,
If threading fully to a shoulder is absolutely necessary, then sometimes it is possible to add the shoulder later by some means. Depending on the "meat" forming the shoulder, it is possible to do a trepanning cut that allows the thread to actually go BEYOND the shoulder face. Another thought is to undercut the "nut" part so that the face of the nut contacts the shoulder, but there is a half a turn or so turned off the nut, and the shaft thread can stop a half turn "short" of the shoulder. Good luck. Take care. Brian Lawson, Bothwell, Ontario. ps....I realize the drawing was made only for your own purposes, but for the rest of us to view it is nice if all the "text" part is set in the same direction, and it is also standard practice to indicate the threaded part(s) with an arrow and text describing it, rather than just with dimensions eg. 2-1/2 - 14 TPI ----------- XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX On Fri, 31 Aug 2007 15:54:29 -0400, Wes wrote: Well, it is once again time for me to use an engine lathe to single point thread. It seems to be something I do every couple years so I've never realy mastered it. I'm restoring a Clausing 6903 lathe that uses a varidrive. The driven sheave has a crack in it. http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/6...it_a_crack.JPG My bud tried to gas weld it with cast iron rod but it wouldn't close. http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/6903_gas_welding.JPG Not much of a picture, cell phone camera though a welding helmet. So then we tried brazing. http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/6...rning_down.JPG http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/6...wn_brazing.JPG It looks like the crack filled but since gas welding didn't work I don't feel like trusting it. There could be dirty metal in crack. So plan #2 forms. I'll replace the hub by turning it off, boring and threading sheave for a 1045 steel hub followed by loctiting with 271 and driving two pins in mating diameter. Here is a drawing. http://wess.freeshell.org/clausing/C...ave_repair.pdf So last night I took a practice pass at threading to get my brain configured. Compound at 29 degrees, crossfeed set at 0, infeed with compound, hand on halfnut lever and pulling out and pulling up on lever at end of thread. I ended up blowing a pull out once. There wasn't a shoulder and if you looked at drawing their will be one. The only other thing I can think of to improve my chances is to put a dab of paint marker on shafting so I can have a timing mark to pull out. I'm open to suggestions on any other tricks to thread up to a shoulder, I've already put in an undercut and the slowest speed is 45 rpm and the machine is a Leblond servoshift so going out of gear at the last part and cranking by hand isn't an option. Thanks, Wes |
#7
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Need tips on single point threading
"Robert Swinney" wrote:
Grant sez: "A lot of guys in the magazines advocate adding a hand crank to the back side of the headstock spindle, and slowly cranking it towards the end of each pass. They use an expanding rod arrangement to lock a shaft inside the headstock tube, the shaft of course having a crank handle fitted." Yep ! Count me amongst them. I made a nice hand crank from a HF tailpipe extender to fit back side of the headstock tube. Also made a 2nd one for the 5-C collet draw tube. They are great for careful threading in either direction as it is almost impossible to make any speed-related mistakes. Bob (slower is better sometimes) Swinney Well the lathe that I have access to won't hand crank worth a chit unless I leave it in neutral from the start. I'm curious about the lathe I'm fixing. Since the motor and varidrive is out, I wonder if threading the whole shaft at home using a crank is an option. I only need to turn .75" at 14 tpi. I'll look into the feasability in the morning. It isn't like tying up the lathe until I get done is a problem. Any tips on making an expanding arbor for spindle? Mine is 1 3/8" id. Wes |
#8
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Need tips on single point threading
Wes wrote:
"Robert Swinney" wrote: Grant sez: "A lot of guys in the magazines advocate adding a hand crank to the back side of the headstock spindle, and slowly cranking it towards the end of each pass. They use an expanding rod arrangement to lock a shaft inside the headstock tube, the shaft of course having a crank handle fitted." Yep ! Count me amongst them. I made a nice hand crank from a HF tailpipe extender to fit back side of the headstock tube. Also made a 2nd one for the 5-C collet draw tube. They are great for careful threading in either direction as it is almost impossible to make any speed-related mistakes. Bob (slower is better sometimes) Swinney Well the lathe that I have access to won't hand crank worth a chit unless I leave it in neutral from the start. I'm curious about the lathe I'm fixing. Since the motor and varidrive is out, I wonder if threading the whole shaft at home using a crank is an option. I only need to turn .75" at 14 tpi. I'll look into the feasability in the morning. It isn't like tying up the lathe until I get done is a problem. Any tips on making an expanding arbor for spindle? Mine is 1 3/8" id. Some years ago, I improvised an expanding arbor from a Dynabolt (is that the US term? Expanding bolt for concrete). A strip of flat for the crank, & an old wooden handle completed it. Worked fine. |
#9
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Need tips on single point threading
Wes wrote:
Well, it is once again time for me to use an engine lathe to single point thread. It seems to be something I do every couple years so I've never realy mastered it. Maybe buy a friend a beer to do it then and don't bother to learn, unless you really want to. Randy |
#10
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Need tips on single point threading
Wes, there is a shop-made hand crank near the bottom of my 9x20" lathe page,
for an idea that was fairly quick to fabricate. http://www.kwagmire.com/shop/lathe/9...cessories.html I don't know what this type of joint/capture device is called, but I remember it being used to secure the handlebar stem on an old bicycle. When the center bolt is tightened, the wedge-action locks the crank arbor in the spindle ID. The center hole was drilled, the angled cut was made, then the hole was filed at the clamping end to allow the drawbolt (allthread) to shift sideways to allow the end piece to pull off-axis. Since the spindle pass-thru hole is under 1" on this small lathe, filing the center hole seemed necessary for using a 3/8" drawbolt. The handwheel knob is a ball bearing assembly with a short piece of nylon round stock pressed into the bore, drilled and tapped for a 1/4"-20 bolt. I had tried using an aluminum bar with a longer offset for the crank, but it was a bit cumbersome, and the handwheel proved to be very easy to turn while wathching the threading operation. The handwheel isn't left in the spindle, as it's very badly off-balance. I pull the power cord from the wall outlet and disengage the drive belt when using the hand crank. For the short offset of the handwheel, and because the lathe is small, the hand threading method doesn't require a lot of effort. WB .......... metalworking projects www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html "Wes" wrote in message ... Well the lathe that I have access to won't hand crank worth a chit unless I leave it in neutral from the start. I'm curious about the lathe I'm fixing. Since the motor and varidrive is out, I wonder if threading the whole shaft at home using a crank is an option. I only need to turn .75" at 14 tpi. I'll look into the feasability in the morning. It isn't like tying up the lathe until I get done is a problem. Any tips on making an expanding arbor for spindle? Mine is 1 3/8" id. Wes -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com |
#11
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Need tips on single point threading
Randy Replogle wrote:
Wes wrote: Well, it is once again time for me to use an engine lathe to single point thread. It seems to be something I do every couple years so I've never realy mastered it. Maybe buy a friend a beer to do it then and don't bother to learn, unless you really want to. Randy Well, the lathe that works is at work. My friends near by don't have lathes. I'm gonna do it but I figured I'd draw on the wisdom of the group for any ideas to improve my chances. The whole point of aquiring the lathe was to be able to build stuff. Screws are high on the list. As soon as I get it going, I want to make a new cross feed screw for my bridgeport but that is questions for another time.... Wes |
#12
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Need tips on single point threading
Mark Rand wrote:
If the lathe has a bottom speed of 45rpm, just practice a bit more. You should be able to get better than half a turn repeatability if there aren't any distractions. I'm thinking a dab of paint marker on the shaft and additional lighting would help my chances out a lot. I'll practice a bit more and get some muscle memory going. Noticed that the lathe I'm repairing engages the half nuts by pulling up. The one I'm using engages by pulling down. I wonder which way of engaging the nuts is standard? My co-worker that was showing me a few things floundered when he pulled the wrong way out of habit. In the past he has run some very big machines though he doesn't do machining where we work. We fix em after the operators break them. Wes |
#13
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Need tips on single point threading
"Wild_Bill" wrote:
I don't know what this type of joint/capture device is called, but I remember it being used to secure the handlebar stem on an old bicycle. When the center bolt is tightened, the wedge-action locks the crank arbor in the spindle ID. A simple wedge clamp. I've repaired enough bicycles I should have come up with that. Thanks Wes |
#14
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Need tips on single point threading
Wes wrote: Randy Replogle wrote: Wes wrote: Well, it is once again time for me to use an engine lathe to single point thread. It seems to be something I do every couple years so I've never realy mastered it. Maybe buy a friend a beer to do it then and don't bother to learn, unless you really want to. Randy Well, the lathe that works is at work. My friends near by don't have lathes. I'm gonna do it but I figured I'd draw on the wisdom of the group for any ideas to improve my chances. The whole point of aquiring the lathe was to be able to build stuff. Screws are high on the list. As soon as I get it going, I want to make a new cross feed screw for my bridgeport but that is questions for another time.... Wes Practice on a straight bar to pull out at the same point. The white mark on the chuck will make it a lot easier to hit the same spot each time. 45 rpm is more than one second per rev. Ive seen really experienced lathe ops. run up to a shoulder at a lot faster rpm than that. John |
#15
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Need tips on single point threading
I've been able to disengage the half nuts when the tool reaches a
1/16" cutoff tool groove by attaching a dial indicator to the ways with the plunger touching the carriage, and watching the needle approach one of the adjustable marker tabs. jw |
#16
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Need tips on single point threading
According to Wes :
[ ... ] Well the lathe that I have access to won't hand crank worth a chit unless I leave it in neutral from the start. If you're going to hang a hand crank on it, it *better* be in neutral through the whole task. And if you expect to be switching between hand cranked and power, take the time to make the hand crank assembly well balanced, or the lathe will be hopping all over the place. Ideally, I would suggest a spring-loaded folding crank so it won't be out there bashing at your hands or anything else which gets close when you have power applied. Though applying power while you've got a hand crank mounted is still asking for lots of trouble. I'm curious about the lathe I'm fixing. Since the motor and varidrive is out, I wonder if threading the whole shaft at home using a crank is an option. I only need to turn .75" at 14 tpi. It might well be. If the lathe is belt drive, disengage the pin which transfers from the pulley to the bull gear, and leave the back gears disengaged and you should have little trouble hand cranking. (And be sure to back the cutting tool out of the thread before you hand crank it back to the start position. (Though the real need for the hand crank is when you are doing metric threading on an imperial leadscrew, where you have to back up without disengaging the half nuts to avoid losing your thread position.) If it is a gearhead lathe, however, I'm not sure how to make it totally neutral. I'll look into the feasability in the morning. It isn't like tying up the lathe until I get done is a problem. Any tips on making an expanding arbor for spindle? Mine is 1 3/8" id. Others have already suggested the expanding grip used for bicycle handlebars. Maybe make three splits instead of two so it is a bit better balanced. Good Luck, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
#17
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Need tips on single point threading
Jim Wilkins wrote:
I've been able to disengage the half nuts when the tool reaches a 1/16" cutoff tool groove by attaching a dial indicator to the ways with the plunger touching the carriage, and watching the needle approach one of the adjustable marker tabs. jw Thats another good way to do it, better than the one I suggested. I forgot about that one. Let the dial go around at least a full turn so you can get ready to pull the handle. John |
#18
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Need tips on single point threading
DoN. Nichols wrote:
If it is a gearhead lathe, however, I'm not sure how to make it totally neutral. Good Luck, DoN. On the Clausing / Metosas you just put the 1 2 3 gear shift between numbers and the spindle turns very easily, ...lew... |
#19
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Need tips on single point threading
On Sep 2, 2:22 am, Wes wrote:
... Any tips on making an expanding arbor for spindle? Mine is 1 3/8" id. Wes I just checked - an expanding-split-ring 5C collet stop opens almost far enough to lock into the closer tube. Wrap a sheet metal shim around it and turn it with a socket wrench which you can remove to run the lathe. jw |
#20
Posted to rec.crafts.metalworking
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Need tips on single point threading
Jim Wilkins wrote:
I've been able to disengage the half nuts when the tool reaches a 1/16" cutoff tool groove by attaching a dial indicator to the ways with the plunger touching the carriage, and watching the needle approach one of the adjustable marker tabs. jw I told my coworker about that one and how I wanted to try it. He pulled a little aluminum casting with some magnets glued in that his buddy made for him with a dial indicator mounted. Sweet. I didn't have much time to check it out but I did make a few air passes at 14 tpi 45 rpm with the indicator and could pull out / unlock in 0.005" travel worst case. Now where did I put my neodymium magnets, I want to make one of those for my self..... Wes |
#21
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Need tips on single point threading
On Wed, 05 Sep 2007 15:06:04 -0400, Wes
wrote: Jim Wilkins wrote: I've been able to disengage the half nuts when the tool reaches a 1/16" cutoff tool groove by attaching a dial indicator to the ways with the plunger touching the carriage, and watching the needle approach one of the adjustable marker tabs. jw I told my coworker about that one and how I wanted to try it. He pulled a little aluminum casting with some magnets glued in that his buddy made for him with a dial indicator mounted. Sweet. I didn't have much time to check it out but I did make a few air passes at 14 tpi 45 rpm with the indicator and could pull out / unlock in 0.005" travel worst case. Now where did I put my neodymium magnets, I want to make one of those for my self..... That sounds simple enough Wes, rather than re-inventing the wheel how about some pictures of it when you get a minute. It sounds like it would be useful to have around for various tasks. -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b Remove no.spam for email |
#22
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Need tips on single point threading
On Wed, 05 Sep 2007 15:06:04 -0400, Wes wrote:
Jim Wilkins wrote: I've been able to disengage the half nuts when the tool reaches a 1/16" cutoff tool groove by attaching a dial indicator to the ways with the plunger touching the carriage, and watching the needle approach one of the adjustable marker tabs. jw I told my coworker about that one and how I wanted to try it. He pulled a little aluminum casting with some magnets glued in that his buddy made for him with a dial indicator mounted. Sweet. I didn't have much time to check it out but I did make a few air passes at 14 tpi 45 rpm with the indicator and could pull out / unlock in 0.005" travel worst case. Now where did I put my neodymium magnets, I want to make one of those for my self..... Wes ======= or click on http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...ProductID=2531 http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?P...MITEM=891-5401 http://www.wttool.com/product-exec/p...Indicator_Back http://www.hhip.com/products/product...tID=401-0005-5 http://www.phase2plus.com/details.as...cators&i d=95 for some more ideas see http://www.statecollegecentral.com/m...the/MLA-8.html http://cgi.ebay.com/13-Jet-Lathe-Dia...QQcmdZViewItem http://www.homemetalshopclub.org/news/apr02/apr02.html scroll down about 2/3 and also see cross slide travel indicator. This is good when you "snap retract" the tool out of the cut and need to go back to the propper depth for another pass. You do know about setting the compound for 28/29 degrees and using this to set the depth so you cut only on the leading edge of the tool? Unka' George [George McDuffee] ============ Merchants have no country. The mere spot they stand on does not constitute so strong an attachment as that from which they draw their gains. Thomas Jefferson (1743-1826), U.S. president. Letter, 17 March 1814. |
#23
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Need tips on single point threading
On Sep 5, 3:24 pm, Leon Fisk wrote:
On Wed, 05 Sep 2007 15:06:04 -0400, Wes wrote: Jim Wilkins wrote: I've been able to disengage the half nuts when the tool reaches a 1/16" cutoff tool groove by attaching a dial indicator to the ways with the plunger touching the carriage, and watching the needle approach one of the adjustable marker tabs. jw I told my coworker about that one and how I wanted to try it. He pulled a little aluminum casting with some magnets glued in that his buddy made for him with a dial indicator mounted. Sweet. I didn't have much time to check it out but I did make a few air passes at 14 tpi 45 rpm with the indicator and could pull out / unlock in 0.005" travel worst case. Now where did I put my neodymium magnets, I want to make one of those for my self..... That sounds simple enough Wes, rather than re-inventing the wheel how about some pictures of it when you get a minute. It sounds like it would be useful to have around for various tasks. -- Leon Fisk http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...ProductID=1642 jw |
#24
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Need tips on single point threading
Leon Fisk wrote:
That sounds simple enough Wes, rather than re-inventing the wheel how about some pictures of it when you get a minute. It sounds like it would be useful to have around for various tasks. http://wess.freeshell.org/usenet/rec...icator_vga.jpg Lost part of it so http://wess.freeshell.org/usenet/rec...se_closeup.jpg Those partial threads are because I took my first pass and realized the last user of the lathe hand screwed the compound full forward and jamned it to take out play in the screw. When I cranked it back and reset over first pass that made the point where the indicator would hit 12 o'clock some distance back. I had no problem stopping and pulling out 0.005 inch travel. I have a base of my own roughed out, need to pick up some magnets and epoxy tomorrow. Wes |
#25
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Need tips on single point threading
On Fri, 07 Sep 2007 09:59:08 -0400, Wes
wrote: Leon Fisk wrote: That sounds simple enough Wes, rather than re-inventing the wheel how about some pictures of it when you get a minute. It sounds like it would be useful to have around for various tasks. http://wess.freeshell.org/usenet/rec...icator_vga.jpg Lost part of it so http://wess.freeshell.org/usenet/rec...se_closeup.jpg Those partial threads are because I took my first pass and realized the last user of the lathe hand screwed the compound full forward and jamned it to take out play in the screw. When I cranked it back and reset over first pass that made the point where the indicator would hit 12 o'clock some distance back. I had no problem stopping and pulling out 0.005 inch travel. I have a base of my own roughed out, need to pick up some magnets and epoxy tomorrow. Thanks Wes. I'll probably end up making something for myself and it is always nice to see what others have thought up first. I usually end up with something slightly different, a combination of the easiest/best ideas and some of my own input. -- Leon Fisk Grand Rapids MI/Zone 5b Remove no.spam for email |
#26
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Need tips on single point threading
Leon Fisk wrote:
I have a base of my own roughed out, need to pick up some magnets and epoxy tomorrow. Thanks Wes. I'll probably end up making something for myself and it is always nice to see what others have thought up first. I usually end up with something slightly different, a combination of the easiest/best ideas and some of my own input. That is what makes it yours. I remembered I had some round ceramic magnets that I stuck to the side of my snowblower years ago so I wouldn't loose them. I've stared at them for close to a decade wondering when am I going to yank the package off and use them. I must have got them cheap My co-workers base had hard drive magnents in it that made it way hard to bump the indicator. One ceramic magnet holds it against the indicator spring, three seemed just about right. The only aluminum I had was a piece of previously used 2" round stock so I turned it into some flat stock. Aluminum on a bridgeport with carbide is like cutting whipped cream. I used a two flute end mill to make pockets for the magnets. http://wess.freeshell.org/usenet/rec...agnet_side.jpg Pardon the crappy cell phone picture but it is what I had to work with atm. Since my indicator has a lug on back and no barrel to clamp on the top I had to do it this way. http://wess.freeshell.org/usenet/rec...se_profile.jpg That is an Enco indicator. So old it was made in Japan back when we outsourced there. My taps and epoxy are at work so I'll finish this up during lunch or in the morning after I get back from a machine tool auction. I need to google up info on a Kemp Smith Horizontal and a John Steptoe shaper. Wes |
#27
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Need tips on single point threading
Brian Lawson wrote:
Hey Wes,, If threading fully to a shoulder is absolutely necessary, then sometimes it is possible to add the shoulder later by some means. Depending on the "meat" forming the shoulder, it is possible to do a trepanning cut that allows the thread to actually go BEYOND the shoulder face. I'm considering adding a ring against the shoulder to get full length engagement of threads. I'm still practicing my ID / OD threading skills since I do not want to damage the article I'm trying to fix. Wes |
#28
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Need tips on single point threading
Jim Wilkins wrote:
I've been able to disengage the half nuts when the tool reaches a 1/16" cutoff tool groove by attaching a dial indicator to the ways with the plunger touching the carriage, and watching the needle approach one of the adjustable marker tabs. jw This indicator idea has been working great. Thanks a bunch. Today I did some ID threading on some scrap using the indicator to work things out. I was cutting 20tpi for an ID thread to mate with a 5C collet. I was hitting my pullout in about a one or two thou. I was thinking of going up a step on speed but why push it. Since I had practiced a bunch doing OD threading, I was developing muscle memory of pulling out CCW as I disengaged the half nuts. So my first thought of mounting the bar insert up facing me was discarded for insert down, backside of part. I don't want to have to do a CW pullout since my muscles just got trained to go CCW and I really hate reversing reflexes if I can. I really don't need to see the insert to ID thread, now CCW is the way to pull out when I hit 12 o'clock on indicator and when I decided I wanted to look at insert it was easy since the bar was on an Aloris post. The other nice thing is that the compound did not need to be changed from the angle it was at of OD threading. Wes |
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