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Gunner[_2_] August 28th 07 06:07 PM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 
Ive mated the "utility body" I swapped for, with the trailer I
scrounged up and am now at the point I need to do something about
painting, prior to wiring and bling.

The utility body..your typical Reading plumbers truck body, all bins
and whatnot, has badly peeling paint. While the base metal is
sound..it looks nasty.

What is the best way to strip off the old paint? My sandblaster buddy
is busy as hell and Ive been afraid that sandblasting may warp the
thin metal doors. Hitting it with a cup brush for a half day in 105F
heat is also unattractive.....and is likely to put swirls in the sheet
metal doors.

Buy a couple gallons of paint stripper?

Suggestions are gladly considered

Gunner

Tom Gardner August 28th 07 06:45 PM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
Ive mated the "utility body" I swapped for, with the trailer I
scrounged up and am now at the point I need to do something about
painting, prior to wiring and bling.

The utility body..your typical Reading plumbers truck body, all bins
and whatnot, has badly peeling paint. While the base metal is
sound..it looks nasty.

What is the best way to strip off the old paint? My sandblaster buddy
is busy as hell and Ive been afraid that sandblasting may warp the
thin metal doors. Hitting it with a cup brush for a half day in 105F
heat is also unattractive.....and is likely to put swirls in the sheet
metal doors.

Buy a couple gallons of paint stripper?

Suggestions are gladly considered

Gunner


Send it out to get hot dipped. Paint it quick!



Karl Townsend August 28th 07 07:38 PM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 

"Tom Gardner" wrote in message
Send it out to get hot dipped. Paint it quick!


Man, I can't believe you don't have a brush to sell for the job. VBG

My 2 cents, get a sandblaster. "The Kid" tried the paint remover a few years
back, what a god awful mess.

Karl




Ed Huntress August 28th 07 07:40 PM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
anews.com...

"Tom Gardner" wrote in message
Send it out to get hot dipped. Paint it quick!


Man, I can't believe you don't have a brush to sell for the job. VBG

My 2 cents, get a sandblaster. "The Kid" tried the paint remover a few
years back, what a god awful mess.


Sandblasters can dent the heck out of panels that aren't well-crowned (and
even some that are). As of five or ten years ago, a favorite trick with car
restorers was to use a sandblaster with crushed walnut-shell medium.

--
Ed Huntress



Nick Mueller August 28th 07 07:47 PM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 
Tom Gardner wrote:

Send it out to get hot dipped. *Paint it quick!


Oh, you want Gunner's paint to fall off quicker!?


Nick
--
The lowcost-DRO:
http://www.yadro.de

Grant Erwin August 28th 07 07:49 PM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 
I vote for using a wire brush with a light touch, and don't try to strip
it, just knock off the loose stuff and then paint it with a brush. It won't
look great, but it'll last awhile.

Doesn't sound like much fun in the Central California heat, though.

GWE

Jerry Foster August 28th 07 11:29 PM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 

"Gunner" wrote in message
...
Ive mated the "utility body" I swapped for, with the trailer I
scrounged up and am now at the point I need to do something about
painting, prior to wiring and bling.

The utility body..your typical Reading plumbers truck body, all bins
and whatnot, has badly peeling paint. While the base metal is
sound..it looks nasty.

What is the best way to strip off the old paint? My sandblaster buddy
is busy as hell and Ive been afraid that sandblasting may warp the
thin metal doors. Hitting it with a cup brush for a half day in 105F
heat is also unattractive.....and is likely to put swirls in the sheet
metal doors.

Buy a couple gallons of paint stripper?

Suggestions are gladly considered

Gunner


You might try a pressure washer, if the paint is loose. A buddy of mine had
a car that had been re-painted and the "new" paint job started to peel. He
spent a few bucks and a couple hours at the local car wash and had it pretty
well back down to the original paint job...

Jerry



[email protected] August 29th 07 01:28 AM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 
On Aug 28, 11:07 am, Gunner wrote:
Ive mated the "utility body" I swapped for, with the trailer I
scrounged up and am now at the point I need to do something about
painting, prior to wiring and bling.

The utility body..your typical Reading plumbers truck body, all bins
and whatnot, has badly peeling paint. While the base metal is
sound..it looks nasty.

What is the best way to strip off the old paint? My sandblaster buddy
is busy as hell and Ive been afraid that sandblasting may warp the
thin metal doors. Hitting it with a cup brush for a half day in 105F
heat is also unattractive.....and is likely to put swirls in the sheet
metal doors.

Buy a couple gallons of paint stripper?

Suggestions are gladly considered

Gunner


I've done a whole car with stripper, one panel at a time. It's messy,
it's nasty, it's FAST. I started in with a sander on the hood. A
half hour later I had an overheated sander, an overheated hand and an
empty box of sandpaper. Oh, and about a 1 foot square down to
primer. Tough stuff, that factory paint, no matter how nasty it
looked. So went over to the body shop supply, picked up a quart of
aircraft finish stripper. 15 minutes after application, the paint had
bubbled off and just rinsed away. You have to be ready with prep and
prime, things rust quick! Sounded like frying bacon when it was doing
its stuff. You might not be able to get the good stuff in CA, though,
what with CARB and all. Just don't treat any more than you can prep
before stuff rusts up. Protective gear strongly recommended and no
plastic soles unless you like sliding around in the remains of your
shoes. I tried cheaper strippers from the hardware store, they didn't
even get the paint gummy.

Stan


Carl Ijames August 29th 07 03:30 AM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 
looked. So went over to the body shop supply, picked up a quart of
aircraft finish stripper. 15 minutes after application, the paint had
bubbled off and just rinsed away. You have to be ready with prep and
prime, things rust quick! Sounded like frying bacon when it was doing


That's one big advantage of the So Cal desert - things don't rust for
days and weeks (sometimes :-)).

--
Regards,
Carl Ijames carl dott ijames aat verizon dott net
(remove nospm or make the obvious changes before replying)



Bob Engelhardt August 29th 07 03:48 AM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 
wrote:
I've done a whole car with stripper, one panel at a time. It's messy,
it's nasty, it's FAST. ... body shop supply, picked up a quart of
aircraft finish stripper. 15 minutes after application, the paint had
bubbled off and just rinsed away. ...


Wow - good stuff! Do you remember how much it took to do the whole car?

Bob

GeoLane at PTD dot NET August 29th 07 03:51 AM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 
On Tue, 28 Aug 2007 10:07:19 -0700, Gunner
wrote:



What is the best way to strip off the old paint? My sandblaster buddy
is busy as hell



Buy a couple gallons of paint stripper?

Suggestions are gladly considered


Never done it, but brake fluid is reported to strip paint. Knowing
your scrounging bent, maybe you could get some gallons of used brake
fluid for free from a store like AutoZone that recycles it.

RWL


Tom Gardner August 29th 07 03:58 AM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 

"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
anews.com...

"Tom Gardner" wrote in message
Send it out to get hot dipped. Paint it quick!


Man, I can't believe you don't have a brush to sell for the job. VBG

My 2 cents, get a sandblaster. "The Kid" tried the paint remover a few
years back, what a god awful mess.

Karl


Gunner's an old man, that much brushing in that heat would kill him or make
him drink too many Mountain Dews...too much caffeine!



Larry Jaques August 29th 07 04:29 AM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 
On Tue, 28 Aug 2007 10:07:19 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
Gunner quickly quoth:

Ive mated the "utility body" I swapped for, with the trailer I
scrounged up and am now at the point I need to do something about
painting, prior to wiring and bling.

The utility body..your typical Reading plumbers truck body, all bins
and whatnot, has badly peeling paint. While the base metal is
sound..it looks nasty.

What is the best way to strip off the old paint? My sandblaster buddy
is busy as hell and Ive been afraid that sandblasting may warp the
thin metal doors. Hitting it with a cup brush for a half day in 105F
heat is also unattractive.....and is likely to put swirls in the sheet
metal doors.

Buy a couple gallons of paint stripper?


A gallon of used brake fluid from the brake shop will do the trick.
Then wash with lacquer thinner ($50 for 5 gallons) and paint.

--

According to our strength of character and our clarity of vision, we will
endure, we will succeed, we will have contributed something to make life
where we were and as we lived it better, brighter, and more beautiful.
-- Frank Lloyd Wright

JR North August 29th 07 06:40 AM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 
The gnarly knotted type wire wheels 5-6" dia on a 4" angle grinder will
strip 1" swaths at a time to bare metal with little effort and heat
generation. It goes quick. Forget the brush type cones or wheels. Eye,
ear, and breathing protection required. Finish to 80 grit, prime. Finish
to 220, paint.
JR
Dweller in the cellar
stripped my whole Roadster to bare metal this way- kicks ass.
Gunner wrote:

Ive mated the "utility body" I swapped for, with the trailer I
scrounged up and am now at the point I need to do something about
painting, prior to wiring and bling.

The utility body..your typical Reading plumbers truck body, all bins
and whatnot, has badly peeling paint. While the base metal is
sound..it looks nasty.

What is the best way to strip off the old paint? My sandblaster buddy
is busy as hell and Ive been afraid that sandblasting may warp the
thin metal doors. Hitting it with a cup brush for a half day in 105F
heat is also unattractive.....and is likely to put swirls in the sheet
metal doors.

Buy a couple gallons of paint stripper?

Suggestions are gladly considered

Gunner



--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth
If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes
Doubt yourself, and the real world will eat you alive
The world doesn't revolve around you, it revolves around me
No skeletons in the closet; just decomposing corpses
--------------------------------------------------------------
Dependence is Vulnerability:
--------------------------------------------------------------
"Open the Pod Bay Doors please, Hal"
"I'm sorry, Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.."

Johnno August 29th 07 12:25 PM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 



Suggestions are gladly considered

Gunner


Gunner, I have done this using paint stripper, the trick is to tape over any
gaps and edges, and use the stripper only on the big areas, keep it out of
the cracks and crevices, and at least half an inch back from any edge. If
the stripper goes into or around a door edge, it will triple your time to
clean it up and fix the paint in there. Use newspaper on the ground under
the edges of the body, then just roll it up, no mess. Do it in the shade,
the sun dries the stripper out too fast. Hose off the rest.


Once the paint is gone from the main panels, sand the remaining bits around
the edges using an orbital or DA sander, it will dissappear in no time. Run
the sander over the main panels, to give the new paint something to stick
to, P80 or 100 grit freecut paper. Give the insides a quick rub over with
fine scotchbrite, clean it off and it's ready for paint.

I had a friend who did this quite often, he could strip the paint off a car
in a couple of hours in a dinner suit, and not get dirty. OK, the dinner
suit is an exageration, but it was amazing to watch, I just gave you his
method.

regards,
John



rustyjames August 29th 07 02:45 PM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 
On Aug 29, 7:25 am, "Johnno" jjohnson61atoptusnetdotcomdotau wrote:
Suggestions are gladly considered


Gunner


Gunner, I have done this using paint stripper, the trick is to tape over any
gaps and edges, and use the stripper only on the big areas, keep it out of
the cracks and crevices, and at least half an inch back from any edge. If
the stripper goes into or around a door edge, it will triple your time to
clean it up and fix the paint in there. Use newspaper on the ground under
the edges of the body, then just roll it up, no mess. Do it in the shade,
the sun dries the stripper out too fast. Hose off the rest.

Once the paint is gone from the main panels, sand the remaining bits around
the edges using an orbital or DA sander, it will dissappear in no time. Run
the sander over the main panels, to give the new paint something to stick
to, P80 or 100 grit freecut paper. Give the insides a quick rub over with
fine scotchbrite, clean it off and it's ready for paint.

I had a friend who did this quite often, he could strip the paint off a car
in a couple of hours in a dinner suit, and not get dirty. OK, the dinner
suit is an exageration, but it was amazing to watch, I just gave you his
method.

regards,
John


That's the way I've done it using stripper. More than likely the body
is galvanized and the correct primer wasn't used if it's flaking
badly. I've even stripped entire bodies just with a single edge razor
blade/holder without stripper because the primer adhesion was so poor.


Gunner[_2_] August 29th 07 06:34 PM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 
On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 21:25:43 +1000, "Johnno"
jjohnson61atoptusnetdotcomdotau wrote:




Suggestions are gladly considered

Gunner


Gunner, I have done this using paint stripper, the trick is to tape over any
gaps and edges, and use the stripper only on the big areas, keep it out of
the cracks and crevices, and at least half an inch back from any edge. If
the stripper goes into or around a door edge, it will triple your time to
clean it up and fix the paint in there. Use newspaper on the ground under
the edges of the body, then just roll it up, no mess. Do it in the shade,
the sun dries the stripper out too fast. Hose off the rest.


Once the paint is gone from the main panels, sand the remaining bits around
the edges using an orbital or DA sander, it will dissappear in no time. Run
the sander over the main panels, to give the new paint something to stick
to, P80 or 100 grit freecut paper. Give the insides a quick rub over with
fine scotchbrite, clean it off and it's ready for paint.

I had a friend who did this quite often, he could strip the paint off a car
in a couple of hours in a dinner suit, and not get dirty. OK, the dinner
suit is an exageration, but it was amazing to watch, I just gave you his
method.

regards,
John



Thanks guys! I think Ill use the stripper method, after the sun has
gone down and the thing has cooled. I tried my heated pressure washer
(Hotsie) and it didnt do much good.

Any brand of stripper better than others, available from the big box
stores or paint supply places?

Gunner

rustyjames August 29th 07 09:35 PM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 
On Aug 29, 1:34 pm, Gunner wrote:
On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 21:25:43 +1000, "Johnno"





jjohnson61atoptusnetdotcomdotau wrote:

Suggestions are gladly considered


Gunner


Gunner, I have done this using paint stripper, the trick is to tape over any
gaps and edges, and use the stripper only on the big areas, keep it out of
the cracks and crevices, and at least half an inch back from any edge. If
the stripper goes into or around a door edge, it will triple your time to
clean it up and fix the paint in there. Use newspaper on the ground under
the edges of the body, then just roll it up, no mess. Do it in the shade,
the sun dries the stripper out too fast. Hose off the rest.


Once the paint is gone from the main panels, sand the remaining bits around
the edges using an orbital or DA sander, it will dissappear in no time. Run
the sander over the main panels, to give the new paint something to stick
to, P80 or 100 grit freecut paper. Give the insides a quick rub over with
fine scotchbrite, clean it off and it's ready for paint.


I had a friend who did this quite often, he could strip the paint off a car
in a couple of hours in a dinner suit, and not get dirty. OK, the dinner
suit is an exageration, but it was amazing to watch, I just gave you his
method.


regards,
John


Thanks guys! I think Ill use the stripper method, after the sun has
gone down and the thing has cooled. I tried my heated pressure washer
(Hotsie) and it didnt do much good.

Any brand of stripper better than others, available from the big box
stores or paint supply places?

Gunner- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Zip-Strip works good. There's also another called Clean-Strip and I
believe one or the other is available at HomeyD and Lowes. Make sure
you put it on even and thick. It's best to let it sit on as long as
possible without it drying up too much. I always used a single edge
razor blade on a holder, but you have to develop a "feel" because
it'll tend to dig into the metal. It's also very important to
neutralize the surface after you have the paint off. I just used
clean water, dried it, gave it a lacquer thinner wipe and primered.
If the body is galvanized make sure you use primer for it (I always
used Dupont Variprime) otherwise you might end up with poor adhesion
again. G/L and enjoy!


Larry Jaques August 30th 07 02:09 AM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 
On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 10:34:05 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
Gunner quickly quoth:

Thanks guys! I think Ill use the stripper method, after the sun has
gone down and the thing has cooled.



Down to 90F? ;) It was 100F here today. How melted was Taft?



I tried my heated pressure washer
(Hotsie) and it didnt do much good.


Those don't have all that much high pressure, do they? I picked up a
Karcher 3kpsi PW last month and have used it 3 times already for
clients. It was a good investment.


Any brand of stripper better than others, available from the big box
stores or paint supply places?


Jasco at the Borgs. Anything with Methylene Chloride (or was it MEK?
I forgot.) is the good stuff. It'll take off epoxies and
polyurethanes, too. It's $30/gallon, though.

Try brake fluid first, though. It's cheaper (if not free) from the
brake shop. Another way to stretch your stripper is to put a couple
layers of newsprint on top. It helps keep it from evaporating too
quickly.

--

According to our strength of character and our clarity of vision, we will
endure, we will succeed, we will have contributed something to make life
where we were and as we lived it better, brighter, and more beautiful.
-- Frank Lloyd Wright

Gunner[_2_] August 30th 07 07:28 PM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 
On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 18:09:35 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 10:34:05 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
Gunner quickly quoth:

Thanks guys! I think Ill use the stripper method, after the sun has
gone down and the thing has cooled.



Down to 90F? ;) It was 100F here today. How melted was Taft?


I dont know..Ive not been home for 3 weeks..worked straight through on
finishing up the Project...Ill be home Friday..with luck.



I tried my heated pressure washer
(Hotsie) and it didnt do much good.


Those don't have all that much high pressure, do they? I picked up a
Karcher 3kpsi PW last month and have used it 3 times already for
clients. It was a good investment.


They put out a pretty good pressure stream. Ehough to have stripped
all the paint off my old Rangers fraime ..


Any brand of stripper better than others, available from the big box
stores or paint supply places?


Jasco at the Borgs. Anything with Methylene Chloride (or was it MEK?
I forgot.) is the good stuff. It'll take off epoxies and
polyurethanes, too. It's $30/gallon, though.


Cringe.....

Try brake fluid first, though. It's cheaper (if not free) from the
brake shop. Another way to stretch your stripper is to put a couple
layers of newsprint on top. It helps keep it from evaporating too
quickly.



Not a bad idea!

Gunner

Larry Jaques August 30th 07 11:58 PM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 
On Thu, 30 Aug 2007 11:28:16 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
Gunner quickly quoth:

On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 18:09:35 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:


Down to 90F? ;) It was 100F here today. How melted was Taft?


I dont know..Ive not been home for 3 weeks..worked straight through on
finishing up the Project...Ill be home Friday..with luck.


Ooh, a good paycheck this month, eh?


I tried my heated pressure washer
(Hotsie) and it didnt do much good.


Those don't have all that much high pressure, do they? I picked up a
Karcher 3kpsi PW last month and have used it 3 times already for
clients. It was a good investment.


They put out a pretty good pressure stream. Ehough to have stripped
all the paint off my old Rangers fraime ..


The last Hotsie I used put out more steam than it did pressure. I'd
give it maybe 500psi.


Any brand of stripper better than others, available from the big box
stores or paint supply places?


Jasco at the Borgs. Anything with Methylene Chloride (or was it MEK?
I forgot.) is the good stuff. It'll take off epoxies and
polyurethanes, too. It's $30/gallon, though.


Cringe.....


But that $30 saves you at least a full day's work.


Try brake fluid first, though. It's cheaper (if not free) from the
brake shop. Another way to stretch your stripper is to put a couple
layers of newsprint on top. It helps keep it from evaporating too
quickly.


Not a bad idea!


Which, the brake fluid or the newsprint?

------------------------------------------
Do the voices in my head bother you?
------------------------------------------

Too_Many_Tools August 31st 07 12:19 AM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 
On Aug 29, 6:25 am, "Johnno" jjohnson61atoptusnetdotcomdotau wrote:
Suggestions are gladly considered


Gunner


Gunner, I have done this using paint stripper, the trick is to tape over any
gaps and edges, and use the stripper only on the big areas, keep it out of
the cracks and crevices, and at least half an inch back from any edge. If
the stripper goes into or around a door edge, it will triple your time to
clean it up and fix the paint in there. Use newspaper on the ground under
the edges of the body, then just roll it up, no mess. Do it in the shade,
the sun dries the stripper out too fast. Hose off the rest.

Once the paint is gone from the main panels, sand the remaining bits around
the edges using an orbital or DA sander, it will dissappear in no time. Run
the sander over the main panels, to give the new paint something to stick
to, P80 or 100 grit freecut paper. Give the insides a quick rub over with
fine scotchbrite, clean it off and it's ready for paint.

I had a friend who did this quite often, he could strip the paint off a car
in a couple of hours in a dinner suit, and not get dirty. OK, the dinner
suit is an exageration, but it was amazing to watch, I just gave you his
method.

regards,
John


Good technique...thanks for sharing.

TMT


Too_Many_Tools August 31st 07 12:23 AM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 
On Aug 29, 12:34 pm, Gunner wrote:
On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 21:25:43 +1000, "Johnno"





jjohnson61atoptusnetdotcomdotau wrote:

Suggestions are gladly considered


Gunner


Gunner, I have done this using paint stripper, the trick is to tape over any
gaps and edges, and use the stripper only on the big areas, keep it out of
the cracks and crevices, and at least half an inch back from any edge. If
the stripper goes into or around a door edge, it will triple your time to
clean it up and fix the paint in there. Use newspaper on the ground under
the edges of the body, then just roll it up, no mess. Do it in the shade,
the sun dries the stripper out too fast. Hose off the rest.


Once the paint is gone from the main panels, sand the remaining bits around
the edges using an orbital or DA sander, it will dissappear in no time. Run
the sander over the main panels, to give the new paint something to stick
to, P80 or 100 grit freecut paper. Give the insides a quick rub over with
fine scotchbrite, clean it off and it's ready for paint.


I had a friend who did this quite often, he could strip the paint off a car
in a couple of hours in a dinner suit, and not get dirty. OK, the dinner
suit is an exageration, but it was amazing to watch, I just gave you his
method.


regards,
John


Thanks guys! I think Ill use the stripper method, after the sun has
gone down and the thing has cooled. I tried my heated pressure washer
(Hotsie) and it didnt do much good.

Any brand of stripper better than others, available from the big box
stores or paint supply places?

Gunner- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Apply the stripper and cover it with anything to slow
evaporation...newspaper, wax paper...even a old sheet....just don't
put it back on your bed...;).

Hot weather causes the stripper to evaporate far too quickly.

Also if you are goingt to spray paint, wait for it to cool down...I
have had many finishes ruined by painting when it was too hot...call
me impatient.

TMT


Too_Many_Tools August 31st 07 12:26 AM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 
On Aug 29, 8:09 pm, Larry Jaques
wrote:
On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 10:34:05 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
Gunner quickly quoth:

Thanks guys! I think Ill use the stripper method, after the sun has
gone down and the thing has cooled.


Down to 90F? ;) It was 100F here today. How melted was Taft?

I tried my heated pressure washer
(Hotsie) and it didnt do much good.


Those don't have all that much high pressure, do they? I picked up a
Karcher 3kpsi PW last month and have used it 3 times already for
clients. It was a good investment.

Any brand of stripper better than others, available from the big box
stores or paint supply places?


Jasco at the Borgs. Anything with Methylene Chloride (or was it MEK?
I forgot.) is the good stuff. It'll take off epoxies and
polyurethanes, too. It's $30/gallon, though.

Try brake fluid first, though. It's cheaper (if not free) from the
brake shop. Another way to stretch your stripper is to put a couple
layers of newsprint on top. It helps keep it from evaporating too
quickly.

--

According to our strength of character and our clarity of vision, we will
endure, we will succeed, we will have contributed something to make life
where we were and as we lived it better, brighter, and more beautiful.
-- Frank Lloyd Wright


Anything with Methylene Chloride (or was it MEK?
I forgot.) is the good stuff.


True...and it will screw up your liver fast.

And if your liver already problems..some of us drink too much...it
won't take much to put you six feet under.

Use protection....really.

TMT


Too_Many_Tools August 31st 07 12:40 AM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 
On Aug 30, 1:28 pm, Gunner wrote:
On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 18:09:35 -0700, Larry Jaques

wrote:
On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 10:34:05 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
Gunner quickly quoth:


Thanks guys! I think Ill use the stripper method, after the sun has
gone down and the thing has cooled.


Down to 90F? ;) It was 100F here today. How melted was Taft?


I dont know..Ive not been home for 3 weeks..worked straight through on
finishing up the Project...Ill be home Friday..with luck.



I tried my heated pressure washer
(Hotsie) and it didnt do much good.


Those don't have all that much high pressure, do they? I picked up a
Karcher 3kpsi PW last month and have used it 3 times already for
clients. It was a good investment.


They put out a pretty good pressure stream. Ehough to have stripped
all the paint off my old Rangers fraime ..



Any brand of stripper better than others, available from the big box
stores or paint supply places?


Jasco at the Borgs. Anything with Methylene Chloride (or was it MEK?
I forgot.) is the good stuff. It'll take off epoxies and
polyurethanes, too. It's $30/gallon, though.


Cringe.....

Try brake fluid first, though. It's cheaper (if not free) from the
brake shop. Another way to stretch your stripper is to put a couple
layers of newsprint on top. It helps keep it from evaporating too
quickly.


Not a bad idea!

Gunner


Actually if you apply stripper, cover with a sheet, cover with wax
paper, let it work, drink Mountain Dew, then move the stripper
impegnanted sheet to the next part, repeat...the stripper will go a
very long way...the Mountain Dew well I can't do miracles.

Oh yeah about methylene chloride, don't use it if you are
pregnant. ;)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dichloromethane

TMT


Ed Huntress August 31st 07 01:21 AM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 

"Too_Many_Tools" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Aug 29, 12:34 pm, Gunner wrote:
On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 21:25:43 +1000, "Johnno"





jjohnson61atoptusnetdotcomdotau wrote:

Suggestions are gladly considered


Gunner


Gunner, I have done this using paint stripper, the trick is to tape over
any
gaps and edges, and use the stripper only on the big areas, keep it out
of
the cracks and crevices, and at least half an inch back from any edge.
If
the stripper goes into or around a door edge, it will triple your time
to
clean it up and fix the paint in there. Use newspaper on the ground
under
the edges of the body, then just roll it up, no mess. Do it in the
shade,
the sun dries the stripper out too fast. Hose off the rest.


Once the paint is gone from the main panels, sand the remaining bits
around
the edges using an orbital or DA sander, it will dissappear in no time.
Run
the sander over the main panels, to give the new paint something to
stick
to, P80 or 100 grit freecut paper. Give the insides a quick rub over
with
fine scotchbrite, clean it off and it's ready for paint.


I had a friend who did this quite often, he could strip the paint off a
car
in a couple of hours in a dinner suit, and not get dirty. OK, the dinner
suit is an exageration, but it was amazing to watch, I just gave you his
method.


regards,
John


Thanks guys! I think Ill use the stripper method, after the sun has
gone down and the thing has cooled. I tried my heated pressure washer
(Hotsie) and it didnt do much good.

Any brand of stripper better than others, available from the big box
stores or paint supply places?

Gunner- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Apply the stripper and cover it with anything to slow
evaporation...newspaper, wax paper...even a old sheet....just don't
put it back on your bed...;).

Hot weather causes the stripper to evaporate far too quickly.


I cover methylene chloride stripper, and my homemade lye-based house
stripper, with cheap polyethylene drop cloths -- the 99-cent kind. It works
very well.

--
Ed Huntress



Gunner[_2_] August 31st 07 01:28 AM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 
On Thu, 30 Aug 2007 15:58:52 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 30 Aug 2007 11:28:16 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
Gunner quickly quoth:

On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 18:09:35 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:


Down to 90F? ;) It was 100F here today. How melted was Taft?


I dont know..Ive not been home for 3 weeks..worked straight through on
finishing up the Project...Ill be home Friday..with luck.


Ooh, a good paycheck this month, eh?


Frankly..Ive made more on the Project in 4 months..than I grossed all
of last year..or really close.

My creditors are in love with me.



I tried my heated pressure washer
(Hotsie) and it didnt do much good.

Those don't have all that much high pressure, do they? I picked up a
Karcher 3kpsi PW last month and have used it 3 times already for
clients. It was a good investment.


They put out a pretty good pressure stream. Ehough to have stripped
all the paint off my old Rangers fraime ..


The last Hotsie I used put out more steam than it did pressure. I'd
give it maybe 500psi.


This is not a steamer..but a HOT water pressure washer. Or the
injector is adjusted wrongly.


Any brand of stripper better than others, available from the big box
stores or paint supply places?

Jasco at the Borgs. Anything with Methylene Chloride (or was it MEK?
I forgot.) is the good stuff. It'll take off epoxies and
polyurethanes, too. It's $30/gallon, though.


Cringe.....


But that $30 saves you at least a full day's work.


True indeed.


Try brake fluid first, though. It's cheaper (if not free) from the
brake shop. Another way to stretch your stripper is to put a couple
layers of newsprint on top. It helps keep it from evaporating too
quickly.


Not a bad idea!


Which, the brake fluid or the newsprint?


Both of course!!

Gunner


------------------------------------------
Do the voices in my head bother you?
------------------------------------------


Gunner[_2_] August 31st 07 01:29 AM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 
On Thu, 30 Aug 2007 16:26:08 -0700, Too_Many_Tools
wrote:

.some of us drink too much...it


TMT


That explains much

Gunner, teetotaler

Too_Many_Tools August 31st 07 01:34 AM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 
On Aug 30, 1:28 pm, Gunner wrote:
On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 18:09:35 -0700, Larry Jaques

wrote:
On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 10:34:05 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
Gunner quickly quoth:


Thanks guys! I think Ill use the stripper method, after the sun has
gone down and the thing has cooled.


Down to 90F? ;) It was 100F here today. How melted was Taft?


I dont know..Ive not been home for 3 weeks..worked straight through on
finishing up the Project...Ill be home Friday..with luck.



I tried my heated pressure washer
(Hotsie) and it didnt do much good.


Those don't have all that much high pressure, do they? I picked up a
Karcher 3kpsi PW last month and have used it 3 times already for
clients. It was a good investment.


They put out a pretty good pressure stream. Ehough to have stripped
all the paint off my old Rangers fraime ..



Any brand of stripper better than others, available from the big box
stores or paint supply places?


Jasco at the Borgs. Anything with Methylene Chloride (or was it MEK?
I forgot.) is the good stuff. It'll take off epoxies and
polyurethanes, too. It's $30/gallon, though.


Cringe.....

Try brake fluid first, though. It's cheaper (if not free) from the
brake shop. Another way to stretch your stripper is to put a couple
layers of newsprint on top. It helps keep it from evaporating too
quickly.


Not a bad idea!

Gunner


Actually if you apply stripper, cover with a sheet, cover with wax
paper, let it work, drink Mountain Dew, then move the stripper
impegnanted sheet to the next part, repeat...the stripper will go a
very long way...the Mountain Dew well I can't do miracles....yet.

Oh yeah about methylene chloride, don't use it if you are
pregnant. ;)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dichloromethane

TMT


Larry Jaques August 31st 07 01:53 PM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 
On Thu, 30 Aug 2007 17:28:04 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
Gunner quickly quoth:

On Thu, 30 Aug 2007 15:58:52 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 30 Aug 2007 11:28:16 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
Gunner quickly quoth:

On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 18:09:35 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:


Down to 90F? ;) It was 100F here today. How melted was Taft?

I dont know..Ive not been home for 3 weeks..worked straight through on
finishing up the Project...Ill be home Friday..with luck.


Ooh, a good paycheck this month, eh?


Frankly..Ive made more on the Project in 4 months..than I grossed all
of last year..or really close.

My creditors are in love with me.


If you're that rich now, you should -have- any more creditors. Hmm,
unless that's how you met the tall panter the other night...


This is not a steamer..but a HOT water pressure washer. Or the
injector is adjusted wrongly.


Oh, OK. I've heard about dem jobbers but haven't seen one yet.


Not a bad idea!


Which, the brake fluid or the newsprint?


Both of course!!


Bueno, bwana. Have fun!

------------------------------------------
Do the voices in my head bother you?
------------------------------------------

Michael A. Terrell August 31st 07 03:36 PM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 
Larry Jaques wrote:

Do the voices in my head bother you?



After reading THIS newsgroup full of trolls, political wackos,
anti-America idiots and assholes that don't know NOT to pick up a red
hot horse shoe?? Get real!


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

Gunner[_2_] August 31st 07 06:05 PM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 
On Fri, 31 Aug 2007 05:53:04 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 30 Aug 2007 17:28:04 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
Gunner quickly quoth:

On Thu, 30 Aug 2007 15:58:52 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Thu, 30 Aug 2007 11:28:16 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
Gunner quickly quoth:

On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 18:09:35 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

Down to 90F? ;) It was 100F here today. How melted was Taft?

I dont know..Ive not been home for 3 weeks..worked straight through on
finishing up the Project...Ill be home Friday..with luck.

Ooh, a good paycheck this month, eh?


Frankly..Ive made more on the Project in 4 months..than I grossed all
of last year..or really close.

My creditors are in love with me.


If you're that rich now, you should -have- any more creditors. Hmm,
unless that's how you met the tall panter the other night...


Not rich, not even well off..but working on paying off at least 5 yrs
worth of back medical bills, property taxes and so forth. When its
gone..Ill be back to being broke, but Ill have positioned myself a bit
better off as far as rolling stock and needed work tools and gotten a
few creditors off my back.


This is not a steamer..but a HOT water pressure washer. Or the
injector is adjusted wrongly.


Oh, OK. I've heard about dem jobbers but haven't seen one yet.


Not a bad idea!

Which, the brake fluid or the newsprint?


Both of course!!


Bueno, bwana. Have fun!

------------------------------------------
Do the voices in my head bother you?
------------------------------------------

Thanks!

Gunner

Bruce L. Bergman September 2nd 07 08:44 AM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 
On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 18:09:35 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

Try brake fluid first, though. It's cheaper (if not free) from the
brake shop. Another way to stretch your stripper is to put a couple
layers of newsprint on top. It helps keep it from evaporating too
quickly.


I would NOT use brake fluid as a paint stripper or for anything
other than it's intended use in a brake system.

Chemical Paint Strippers can be neutralized (read the label) and
after being neutralized they stop stripping paint and don't harm the
environment too much.

But AFAIK you can't neutralize brake fluid, and it's still going to
give the folks at the regional sewer plant a headache when that slug
of contaminated sewage comes through. And if you hose the effluent
into a storm drain you're going to cause a world of hurt to the
critters that live in that creek.

-- Bruce --


Larry Jaques September 2nd 07 12:37 PM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 
On Sun, 02 Sep 2007 00:44:39 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
Bruce L. Bergman quickly quoth:

On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 18:09:35 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

Try brake fluid first, though. It's cheaper (if not free) from the
brake shop. Another way to stretch your stripper is to put a couple
layers of newsprint on top. It helps keep it from evaporating too
quickly.


I would NOT use brake fluid as a paint stripper or for anything
other than it's intended use in a brake system.


This looks just like a legal disclaimer, Bruce. ;)


Chemical Paint Strippers can be neutralized (read the label) and
after being neutralized they stop stripping paint and don't harm the
environment too much.


Other than at refinishing businesses where recycling is a reality,
I've never known anyone to attempt to neutralize paint stripper, and
I've seen a lot of stripping in 54 years.


But AFAIK you can't neutralize brake fluid, and it's still going to
give the folks at the regional sewer plant a headache when that slug
of contaminated sewage comes through. And if you hose the effluent
into a storm drain you're going to cause a world of hurt to the
critters that live in that creek.


I've also never known anyone rude enough to flush it. Most chem
strippers will evaporate and the paint rehardens. It's always trashed.
Ida thunk he'd simply wad up the newspapers and trash 'em like
everyone else. YMOV

--
"Not always right, but never uncertain." --Heinlein
-=-=-

Ed Huntress September 2nd 07 02:11 PM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 02 Sep 2007 00:44:39 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
Bruce L. Bergman quickly quoth:

On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 18:09:35 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

Try brake fluid first, though. It's cheaper (if not free) from the
brake shop. Another way to stretch your stripper is to put a couple
layers of newsprint on top. It helps keep it from evaporating too
quickly.


I would NOT use brake fluid as a paint stripper or for anything
other than it's intended use in a brake system.


This looks just like a legal disclaimer, Bruce. ;)


Chemical Paint Strippers can be neutralized (read the label) and
after being neutralized they stop stripping paint and don't harm the
environment too much.


Other than at refinishing businesses where recycling is a reality,
I've never known anyone to attempt to neutralize paint stripper, and
I've seen a lot of stripping in 54 years.


In large volume operations, methylene chloride is "neutralized" with
household chlorine bleach. I have no idea what the chemistry is. In small
applications, like a car, the stuff is so volatile that it's probably going
to evaporate before you can "neutralize" it. I've always used TSP to wash it
off, on the recommendation of a manufacturer of the stuff who I called about
it 30 years ago. Old info, and worth double-checking.



But AFAIK you can't neutralize brake fluid, and it's still going to
give the folks at the regional sewer plant a headache when that slug
of contaminated sewage comes through. And if you hose the effluent
into a storm drain you're going to cause a world of hurt to the
critters that live in that creek.


I've also never known anyone rude enough to flush it. Most chem
strippers will evaporate and the paint rehardens. It's always trashed.
Ida thunk he'd simply wad up the newspapers and trash 'em like
everyone else. YMOV


Brake fluid will not evaporate. If you have some that evaporates and you put
it in your car, you're going to crash. d8-)

It's non-volatile, toxic, and pernicious as hell. There are few worse things
you can throw in the trash or allow to get into a storm sewer. It's a bitch
to get the last bit of film from the stuff off of a surface. I would never
consider using it on anything I was going to paint.

Regarding methylene chloride, the big danger is that it causes the
generation of carbon monoxide in your blood, if you inhale a lot of it. It
can cause heart attacks. Use it outdoors and downwind.

Today's commercial strippers can consist of all kinds of weird chemicals.
Here's a pretty good rundown of strippers sold to consumers. It applies to
use on wood, but those are the strippers you're going to find on store
shelves, anyway:

http://www.woodzone.com/articles/paint_stripper.htm

--
Ed Huntress



[email protected] September 2nd 07 03:54 PM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 
On Aug 28, 8:48 pm, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
wrote:
I've done a whole car with stripper, one panel at a time. It's messy,
it's nasty, it's FAST. ... body shop supply, picked up a quart of
aircraft finish stripper. 15 minutes after application, the paint had
bubbled off and just rinsed away. ...


Wow - good stuff! Do you remember how much it took to do the whole car?

Bob


I think I went through the better part of a gallon can over the
summer. Was a VW Squareback, I could take body panels off, hang them
up and do what I needed to do one at a time. Badly weathered paint,
worn through to the primer in a lot of places, but it still stuck very
wel!

Stan


Larry Jaques September 3rd 07 12:53 AM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 
On Sun, 2 Sep 2007 09:11:28 -0400, with neither quill nor qualm, "Ed
Huntress" quickly quoth:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 02 Sep 2007 00:44:39 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
Bruce L. Bergman quickly quoth:

On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 18:09:35 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

Try brake fluid first, though. It's cheaper (if not free) from the
brake shop. Another way to stretch your stripper is to put a couple
layers of newsprint on top. It helps keep it from evaporating too
quickly.

I would NOT use brake fluid as a paint stripper or for anything
other than it's intended use in a brake system.


This looks just like a legal disclaimer, Bruce. ;)


Chemical Paint Strippers can be neutralized (read the label) and
after being neutralized they stop stripping paint and don't harm the
environment too much.


Other than at refinishing businesses where recycling is a reality,
I've never known anyone to attempt to neutralize paint stripper, and
I've seen a lot of stripping in 54 years.


In large volume operations, methylene chloride is "neutralized" with
household chlorine bleach. I have no idea what the chemistry is. In small
applications, like a car, the stuff is so volatile that it's probably going
to evaporate before you can "neutralize" it. I've always used TSP to wash it
off, on the recommendation of a manufacturer of the stuff who I called about
it 30 years ago. Old info, and worth double-checking.



But AFAIK you can't neutralize brake fluid, and it's still going to
give the folks at the regional sewer plant a headache when that slug
of contaminated sewage comes through. And if you hose the effluent
into a storm drain you're going to cause a world of hurt to the
critters that live in that creek.


I've also never known anyone rude enough to flush it. Most chem
strippers will evaporate and the paint rehardens. It's always trashed.
Ida thunk he'd simply wad up the newspapers and trash 'em like
everyone else. YMOV


Brake fluid will not evaporate. If you have some that evaporates and you put
it in your car, you're going to crash. d8-)


I said "most chem strippers will evaporate". I know brake fluid
doesn't.


It's non-volatile, toxic, and pernicious as hell. There are few worse things
you can throw in the trash or allow to get into a storm sewer. It's a bitch


What's worse: 5 gallons of thinners in the air or half a gallon of
glycol-ether-based brake fluid in the dump? I wonder what the
chemical result of it breaking down paint is, what it turns into. Less
harmful, one might hope?


to get the last bit of film from the stuff off of a surface. I would never
consider using it on anything I was going to paint.


Wuss. ;) Quick cleanup: wipe dry, wash with soap and water, dry
again, and spray and wipe with cleaner. Berryman's B-12 takes it off
quickly and easily, even from porous brake shoes. I've also used
naphtha and/or lacquer thinner (my most-used cleaner) after brake
jobs. On non-porous metal, it's a quick deal. Soap and water take 99%
of it off and the thinner takes the last 1% film. Not a prob.

B-12 contains toluene, methanol, heptanes, and acetone. Don't breathe
it deeply, either.


Regarding methylene chloride, the big danger is that it causes the
generation of carbon monoxide in your blood, if you inhale a lot of it. It
can cause heart attacks. Use it outdoors and downwind.


Absolutely. That's nastyass stuff.


Today's commercial strippers can consist of all kinds of weird chemicals.
Here's a pretty good rundown of strippers sold to consumers. It applies to
use on wood, but those are the strippers you're going to find on store
shelves, anyway:

http://www.woodzone.com/articles/paint_stripper.htm


Informative. Danke.

--
"Not always right, but never uncertain." --Heinlein
-=-=-

Ed Huntress September 3rd 07 01:59 AM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 2 Sep 2007 09:11:28 -0400, with neither quill nor qualm, "Ed
Huntress" quickly quoth:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
. ..
On Sun, 02 Sep 2007 00:44:39 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
Bruce L. Bergman quickly quoth:

On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 18:09:35 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

Try brake fluid first, though. It's cheaper (if not free) from the
brake shop. Another way to stretch your stripper is to put a couple
layers of newsprint on top. It helps keep it from evaporating too
quickly.

I would NOT use brake fluid as a paint stripper or for anything
other than it's intended use in a brake system.

This looks just like a legal disclaimer, Bruce. ;)


Chemical Paint Strippers can be neutralized (read the label) and
after being neutralized they stop stripping paint and don't harm the
environment too much.

Other than at refinishing businesses where recycling is a reality,
I've never known anyone to attempt to neutralize paint stripper, and
I've seen a lot of stripping in 54 years.


In large volume operations, methylene chloride is "neutralized" with
household chlorine bleach. I have no idea what the chemistry is. In small
applications, like a car, the stuff is so volatile that it's probably
going
to evaporate before you can "neutralize" it. I've always used TSP to wash
it
off, on the recommendation of a manufacturer of the stuff who I called
about
it 30 years ago. Old info, and worth double-checking.



But AFAIK you can't neutralize brake fluid, and it's still going to
give the folks at the regional sewer plant a headache when that slug
of contaminated sewage comes through. And if you hose the effluent
into a storm drain you're going to cause a world of hurt to the
critters that live in that creek.

I've also never known anyone rude enough to flush it. Most chem
strippers will evaporate and the paint rehardens. It's always trashed.
Ida thunk he'd simply wad up the newspapers and trash 'em like
everyone else. YMOV


Brake fluid will not evaporate. If you have some that evaporates and you
put
it in your car, you're going to crash. d8-)


I said "most chem strippers will evaporate". I know brake fluid
doesn't.


It's non-volatile, toxic, and pernicious as hell. There are few worse
things
you can throw in the trash or allow to get into a storm sewer. It's a
bitch


What's worse: 5 gallons of thinners in the air or half a gallon of
glycol-ether-based brake fluid in the dump?


I'd go for the thinners in the air, if you went gallon-for-gallon. In that
10:1 ratio you propose, I couldn't guess.

I wonder what the
chemical result of it breaking down paint is, what it turns into. Less
harmful, one might hope?


Ya' got me. Chemistry makes my head hurt.



to get the last bit of film from the stuff off of a surface. I would never
consider using it on anything I was going to paint.


Wuss. ;) Quick cleanup: wipe dry, wash with soap and water, dry
again, and spray and wipe with cleaner. Berryman's B-12 takes it off
quickly and easily, even from porous brake shoes. I've also used
naphtha and/or lacquer thinner (my most-used cleaner) after brake
jobs. On non-porous metal, it's a quick deal. Soap and water take 99%
of it off and the thinner takes the last 1% film. Not a prob.

B-12 contains toluene, methanol, heptanes, and acetone. Don't breathe
it deeply, either.


Regarding methylene chloride, the big danger is that it causes the
generation of carbon monoxide in your blood, if you inhale a lot of it. It
can cause heart attacks. Use it outdoors and downwind.


Absolutely. That's nastyass stuff.


Today's commercial strippers can consist of all kinds of weird chemicals.
Here's a pretty good rundown of strippers sold to consumers. It applies to
use on wood, but those are the strippers you're going to find on store
shelves, anyway:

http://www.woodzone.com/articles/paint_stripper.htm


Informative. Danke.

--
"Not always right, but never uncertain." --Heinlein
-=-=-


--
Ed Huntress



Gerald Miller September 3rd 07 02:23 AM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 
Best paint stripper I ever found was trichlorethylene. Drop the
painted item into a pan of tri' , wait a half hour and lift the item
out sans paint.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

Gunner Asch[_2_] September 3rd 07 05:16 AM

Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
 
On Sun, 02 Sep 2007 00:44:39 -0700, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:

On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 18:09:35 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

Try brake fluid first, though. It's cheaper (if not free) from the
brake shop. Another way to stretch your stripper is to put a couple
layers of newsprint on top. It helps keep it from evaporating too
quickly.


I would NOT use brake fluid as a paint stripper or for anything
other than it's intended use in a brake system.

Chemical Paint Strippers can be neutralized (read the label) and
after being neutralized they stop stripping paint and don't harm the
environment too much.

But AFAIK you can't neutralize brake fluid, and it's still going to
give the folks at the regional sewer plant a headache when that slug
of contaminated sewage comes through. And if you hose the effluent
into a storm drain you're going to cause a world of hurt to the
critters that live in that creek.

-- Bruce --



Bruce..sewer? Creek? This is Taft, one of the armpits of the world.

We have creeks...called "oil ditches"

Gunner



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