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Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
Ive mated the "utility body" I swapped for, with the trailer I
scrounged up and am now at the point I need to do something about painting, prior to wiring and bling. The utility body..your typical Reading plumbers truck body, all bins and whatnot, has badly peeling paint. While the base metal is sound..it looks nasty. What is the best way to strip off the old paint? My sandblaster buddy is busy as hell and Ive been afraid that sandblasting may warp the thin metal doors. Hitting it with a cup brush for a half day in 105F heat is also unattractive.....and is likely to put swirls in the sheet metal doors. Buy a couple gallons of paint stripper? Suggestions are gladly considered Gunner |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
"Gunner" wrote in message ... Ive mated the "utility body" I swapped for, with the trailer I scrounged up and am now at the point I need to do something about painting, prior to wiring and bling. The utility body..your typical Reading plumbers truck body, all bins and whatnot, has badly peeling paint. While the base metal is sound..it looks nasty. What is the best way to strip off the old paint? My sandblaster buddy is busy as hell and Ive been afraid that sandblasting may warp the thin metal doors. Hitting it with a cup brush for a half day in 105F heat is also unattractive.....and is likely to put swirls in the sheet metal doors. Buy a couple gallons of paint stripper? Suggestions are gladly considered Gunner Send it out to get hot dipped. Paint it quick! |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
"Tom Gardner" wrote in message Send it out to get hot dipped. Paint it quick! Man, I can't believe you don't have a brush to sell for the job. VBG My 2 cents, get a sandblaster. "The Kid" tried the paint remover a few years back, what a god awful mess. Karl |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
"Karl Townsend" wrote in message anews.com... "Tom Gardner" wrote in message Send it out to get hot dipped. Paint it quick! Man, I can't believe you don't have a brush to sell for the job. VBG My 2 cents, get a sandblaster. "The Kid" tried the paint remover a few years back, what a god awful mess. Sandblasters can dent the heck out of panels that aren't well-crowned (and even some that are). As of five or ten years ago, a favorite trick with car restorers was to use a sandblaster with crushed walnut-shell medium. -- Ed Huntress |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
Tom Gardner wrote:
Send it out to get hot dipped. Â*Paint it quick! Oh, you want Gunner's paint to fall off quicker!? Nick -- The lowcost-DRO: http://www.yadro.de |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
I vote for using a wire brush with a light touch, and don't try to strip
it, just knock off the loose stuff and then paint it with a brush. It won't look great, but it'll last awhile. Doesn't sound like much fun in the Central California heat, though. GWE |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
"Gunner" wrote in message ... Ive mated the "utility body" I swapped for, with the trailer I scrounged up and am now at the point I need to do something about painting, prior to wiring and bling. The utility body..your typical Reading plumbers truck body, all bins and whatnot, has badly peeling paint. While the base metal is sound..it looks nasty. What is the best way to strip off the old paint? My sandblaster buddy is busy as hell and Ive been afraid that sandblasting may warp the thin metal doors. Hitting it with a cup brush for a half day in 105F heat is also unattractive.....and is likely to put swirls in the sheet metal doors. Buy a couple gallons of paint stripper? Suggestions are gladly considered Gunner You might try a pressure washer, if the paint is loose. A buddy of mine had a car that had been re-painted and the "new" paint job started to peel. He spent a few bucks and a couple hours at the local car wash and had it pretty well back down to the original paint job... Jerry |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
On Aug 28, 11:07 am, Gunner wrote:
Ive mated the "utility body" I swapped for, with the trailer I scrounged up and am now at the point I need to do something about painting, prior to wiring and bling. The utility body..your typical Reading plumbers truck body, all bins and whatnot, has badly peeling paint. While the base metal is sound..it looks nasty. What is the best way to strip off the old paint? My sandblaster buddy is busy as hell and Ive been afraid that sandblasting may warp the thin metal doors. Hitting it with a cup brush for a half day in 105F heat is also unattractive.....and is likely to put swirls in the sheet metal doors. Buy a couple gallons of paint stripper? Suggestions are gladly considered Gunner I've done a whole car with stripper, one panel at a time. It's messy, it's nasty, it's FAST. I started in with a sander on the hood. A half hour later I had an overheated sander, an overheated hand and an empty box of sandpaper. Oh, and about a 1 foot square down to primer. Tough stuff, that factory paint, no matter how nasty it looked. So went over to the body shop supply, picked up a quart of aircraft finish stripper. 15 minutes after application, the paint had bubbled off and just rinsed away. You have to be ready with prep and prime, things rust quick! Sounded like frying bacon when it was doing its stuff. You might not be able to get the good stuff in CA, though, what with CARB and all. Just don't treat any more than you can prep before stuff rusts up. Protective gear strongly recommended and no plastic soles unless you like sliding around in the remains of your shoes. I tried cheaper strippers from the hardware store, they didn't even get the paint gummy. Stan |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
looked. So went over to the body shop supply, picked up a quart of
aircraft finish stripper. 15 minutes after application, the paint had bubbled off and just rinsed away. You have to be ready with prep and prime, things rust quick! Sounded like frying bacon when it was doing That's one big advantage of the So Cal desert - things don't rust for days and weeks (sometimes :-)). -- Regards, Carl Ijames carl dott ijames aat verizon dott net (remove nospm or make the obvious changes before replying) |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
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Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
On Tue, 28 Aug 2007 10:07:19 -0700, Gunner
wrote: What is the best way to strip off the old paint? My sandblaster buddy is busy as hell Buy a couple gallons of paint stripper? Suggestions are gladly considered Never done it, but brake fluid is reported to strip paint. Knowing your scrounging bent, maybe you could get some gallons of used brake fluid for free from a store like AutoZone that recycles it. RWL |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
"Karl Townsend" wrote in message anews.com... "Tom Gardner" wrote in message Send it out to get hot dipped. Paint it quick! Man, I can't believe you don't have a brush to sell for the job. VBG My 2 cents, get a sandblaster. "The Kid" tried the paint remover a few years back, what a god awful mess. Karl Gunner's an old man, that much brushing in that heat would kill him or make him drink too many Mountain Dews...too much caffeine! |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
On Tue, 28 Aug 2007 10:07:19 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
Gunner quickly quoth: Ive mated the "utility body" I swapped for, with the trailer I scrounged up and am now at the point I need to do something about painting, prior to wiring and bling. The utility body..your typical Reading plumbers truck body, all bins and whatnot, has badly peeling paint. While the base metal is sound..it looks nasty. What is the best way to strip off the old paint? My sandblaster buddy is busy as hell and Ive been afraid that sandblasting may warp the thin metal doors. Hitting it with a cup brush for a half day in 105F heat is also unattractive.....and is likely to put swirls in the sheet metal doors. Buy a couple gallons of paint stripper? A gallon of used brake fluid from the brake shop will do the trick. Then wash with lacquer thinner ($50 for 5 gallons) and paint. -- According to our strength of character and our clarity of vision, we will endure, we will succeed, we will have contributed something to make life where we were and as we lived it better, brighter, and more beautiful. -- Frank Lloyd Wright |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
The gnarly knotted type wire wheels 5-6" dia on a 4" angle grinder will
strip 1" swaths at a time to bare metal with little effort and heat generation. It goes quick. Forget the brush type cones or wheels. Eye, ear, and breathing protection required. Finish to 80 grit, prime. Finish to 220, paint. JR Dweller in the cellar stripped my whole Roadster to bare metal this way- kicks ass. Gunner wrote: Ive mated the "utility body" I swapped for, with the trailer I scrounged up and am now at the point I need to do something about painting, prior to wiring and bling. The utility body..your typical Reading plumbers truck body, all bins and whatnot, has badly peeling paint. While the base metal is sound..it looks nasty. What is the best way to strip off the old paint? My sandblaster buddy is busy as hell and Ive been afraid that sandblasting may warp the thin metal doors. Hitting it with a cup brush for a half day in 105F heat is also unattractive.....and is likely to put swirls in the sheet metal doors. Buy a couple gallons of paint stripper? Suggestions are gladly considered Gunner -- -------------------------------------------------------------- Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth If you're not the lead dog, the view never changes Doubt yourself, and the real world will eat you alive The world doesn't revolve around you, it revolves around me No skeletons in the closet; just decomposing corpses -------------------------------------------------------------- Dependence is Vulnerability: -------------------------------------------------------------- "Open the Pod Bay Doors please, Hal" "I'm sorry, Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that.." |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
Suggestions are gladly considered Gunner Gunner, I have done this using paint stripper, the trick is to tape over any gaps and edges, and use the stripper only on the big areas, keep it out of the cracks and crevices, and at least half an inch back from any edge. If the stripper goes into or around a door edge, it will triple your time to clean it up and fix the paint in there. Use newspaper on the ground under the edges of the body, then just roll it up, no mess. Do it in the shade, the sun dries the stripper out too fast. Hose off the rest. Once the paint is gone from the main panels, sand the remaining bits around the edges using an orbital or DA sander, it will dissappear in no time. Run the sander over the main panels, to give the new paint something to stick to, P80 or 100 grit freecut paper. Give the insides a quick rub over with fine scotchbrite, clean it off and it's ready for paint. I had a friend who did this quite often, he could strip the paint off a car in a couple of hours in a dinner suit, and not get dirty. OK, the dinner suit is an exageration, but it was amazing to watch, I just gave you his method. regards, John |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
On Aug 29, 7:25 am, "Johnno" jjohnson61atoptusnetdotcomdotau wrote:
Suggestions are gladly considered Gunner Gunner, I have done this using paint stripper, the trick is to tape over any gaps and edges, and use the stripper only on the big areas, keep it out of the cracks and crevices, and at least half an inch back from any edge. If the stripper goes into or around a door edge, it will triple your time to clean it up and fix the paint in there. Use newspaper on the ground under the edges of the body, then just roll it up, no mess. Do it in the shade, the sun dries the stripper out too fast. Hose off the rest. Once the paint is gone from the main panels, sand the remaining bits around the edges using an orbital or DA sander, it will dissappear in no time. Run the sander over the main panels, to give the new paint something to stick to, P80 or 100 grit freecut paper. Give the insides a quick rub over with fine scotchbrite, clean it off and it's ready for paint. I had a friend who did this quite often, he could strip the paint off a car in a couple of hours in a dinner suit, and not get dirty. OK, the dinner suit is an exageration, but it was amazing to watch, I just gave you his method. regards, John That's the way I've done it using stripper. More than likely the body is galvanized and the correct primer wasn't used if it's flaking badly. I've even stripped entire bodies just with a single edge razor blade/holder without stripper because the primer adhesion was so poor. |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 21:25:43 +1000, "Johnno"
jjohnson61atoptusnetdotcomdotau wrote: Suggestions are gladly considered Gunner Gunner, I have done this using paint stripper, the trick is to tape over any gaps and edges, and use the stripper only on the big areas, keep it out of the cracks and crevices, and at least half an inch back from any edge. If the stripper goes into or around a door edge, it will triple your time to clean it up and fix the paint in there. Use newspaper on the ground under the edges of the body, then just roll it up, no mess. Do it in the shade, the sun dries the stripper out too fast. Hose off the rest. Once the paint is gone from the main panels, sand the remaining bits around the edges using an orbital or DA sander, it will dissappear in no time. Run the sander over the main panels, to give the new paint something to stick to, P80 or 100 grit freecut paper. Give the insides a quick rub over with fine scotchbrite, clean it off and it's ready for paint. I had a friend who did this quite often, he could strip the paint off a car in a couple of hours in a dinner suit, and not get dirty. OK, the dinner suit is an exageration, but it was amazing to watch, I just gave you his method. regards, John Thanks guys! I think Ill use the stripper method, after the sun has gone down and the thing has cooled. I tried my heated pressure washer (Hotsie) and it didnt do much good. Any brand of stripper better than others, available from the big box stores or paint supply places? Gunner |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
On Aug 29, 1:34 pm, Gunner wrote:
On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 21:25:43 +1000, "Johnno" jjohnson61atoptusnetdotcomdotau wrote: Suggestions are gladly considered Gunner Gunner, I have done this using paint stripper, the trick is to tape over any gaps and edges, and use the stripper only on the big areas, keep it out of the cracks and crevices, and at least half an inch back from any edge. If the stripper goes into or around a door edge, it will triple your time to clean it up and fix the paint in there. Use newspaper on the ground under the edges of the body, then just roll it up, no mess. Do it in the shade, the sun dries the stripper out too fast. Hose off the rest. Once the paint is gone from the main panels, sand the remaining bits around the edges using an orbital or DA sander, it will dissappear in no time. Run the sander over the main panels, to give the new paint something to stick to, P80 or 100 grit freecut paper. Give the insides a quick rub over with fine scotchbrite, clean it off and it's ready for paint. I had a friend who did this quite often, he could strip the paint off a car in a couple of hours in a dinner suit, and not get dirty. OK, the dinner suit is an exageration, but it was amazing to watch, I just gave you his method. regards, John Thanks guys! I think Ill use the stripper method, after the sun has gone down and the thing has cooled. I tried my heated pressure washer (Hotsie) and it didnt do much good. Any brand of stripper better than others, available from the big box stores or paint supply places? Gunner- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Zip-Strip works good. There's also another called Clean-Strip and I believe one or the other is available at HomeyD and Lowes. Make sure you put it on even and thick. It's best to let it sit on as long as possible without it drying up too much. I always used a single edge razor blade on a holder, but you have to develop a "feel" because it'll tend to dig into the metal. It's also very important to neutralize the surface after you have the paint off. I just used clean water, dried it, gave it a lacquer thinner wipe and primered. If the body is galvanized make sure you use primer for it (I always used Dupont Variprime) otherwise you might end up with poor adhesion again. G/L and enjoy! |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 10:34:05 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
Gunner quickly quoth: Thanks guys! I think Ill use the stripper method, after the sun has gone down and the thing has cooled. Down to 90F? ;) It was 100F here today. How melted was Taft? I tried my heated pressure washer (Hotsie) and it didnt do much good. Those don't have all that much high pressure, do they? I picked up a Karcher 3kpsi PW last month and have used it 3 times already for clients. It was a good investment. Any brand of stripper better than others, available from the big box stores or paint supply places? Jasco at the Borgs. Anything with Methylene Chloride (or was it MEK? I forgot.) is the good stuff. It'll take off epoxies and polyurethanes, too. It's $30/gallon, though. Try brake fluid first, though. It's cheaper (if not free) from the brake shop. Another way to stretch your stripper is to put a couple layers of newsprint on top. It helps keep it from evaporating too quickly. -- According to our strength of character and our clarity of vision, we will endure, we will succeed, we will have contributed something to make life where we were and as we lived it better, brighter, and more beautiful. -- Frank Lloyd Wright |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 18:09:35 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote: On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 10:34:05 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm, Gunner quickly quoth: Thanks guys! I think Ill use the stripper method, after the sun has gone down and the thing has cooled. Down to 90F? ;) It was 100F here today. How melted was Taft? I dont know..Ive not been home for 3 weeks..worked straight through on finishing up the Project...Ill be home Friday..with luck. I tried my heated pressure washer (Hotsie) and it didnt do much good. Those don't have all that much high pressure, do they? I picked up a Karcher 3kpsi PW last month and have used it 3 times already for clients. It was a good investment. They put out a pretty good pressure stream. Ehough to have stripped all the paint off my old Rangers fraime .. Any brand of stripper better than others, available from the big box stores or paint supply places? Jasco at the Borgs. Anything with Methylene Chloride (or was it MEK? I forgot.) is the good stuff. It'll take off epoxies and polyurethanes, too. It's $30/gallon, though. Cringe..... Try brake fluid first, though. It's cheaper (if not free) from the brake shop. Another way to stretch your stripper is to put a couple layers of newsprint on top. It helps keep it from evaporating too quickly. Not a bad idea! Gunner |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
On Thu, 30 Aug 2007 11:28:16 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
Gunner quickly quoth: On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 18:09:35 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote: Down to 90F? ;) It was 100F here today. How melted was Taft? I dont know..Ive not been home for 3 weeks..worked straight through on finishing up the Project...Ill be home Friday..with luck. Ooh, a good paycheck this month, eh? I tried my heated pressure washer (Hotsie) and it didnt do much good. Those don't have all that much high pressure, do they? I picked up a Karcher 3kpsi PW last month and have used it 3 times already for clients. It was a good investment. They put out a pretty good pressure stream. Ehough to have stripped all the paint off my old Rangers fraime .. The last Hotsie I used put out more steam than it did pressure. I'd give it maybe 500psi. Any brand of stripper better than others, available from the big box stores or paint supply places? Jasco at the Borgs. Anything with Methylene Chloride (or was it MEK? I forgot.) is the good stuff. It'll take off epoxies and polyurethanes, too. It's $30/gallon, though. Cringe..... But that $30 saves you at least a full day's work. Try brake fluid first, though. It's cheaper (if not free) from the brake shop. Another way to stretch your stripper is to put a couple layers of newsprint on top. It helps keep it from evaporating too quickly. Not a bad idea! Which, the brake fluid or the newsprint? ------------------------------------------ Do the voices in my head bother you? ------------------------------------------ |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
On Aug 29, 6:25 am, "Johnno" jjohnson61atoptusnetdotcomdotau wrote:
Suggestions are gladly considered Gunner Gunner, I have done this using paint stripper, the trick is to tape over any gaps and edges, and use the stripper only on the big areas, keep it out of the cracks and crevices, and at least half an inch back from any edge. If the stripper goes into or around a door edge, it will triple your time to clean it up and fix the paint in there. Use newspaper on the ground under the edges of the body, then just roll it up, no mess. Do it in the shade, the sun dries the stripper out too fast. Hose off the rest. Once the paint is gone from the main panels, sand the remaining bits around the edges using an orbital or DA sander, it will dissappear in no time. Run the sander over the main panels, to give the new paint something to stick to, P80 or 100 grit freecut paper. Give the insides a quick rub over with fine scotchbrite, clean it off and it's ready for paint. I had a friend who did this quite often, he could strip the paint off a car in a couple of hours in a dinner suit, and not get dirty. OK, the dinner suit is an exageration, but it was amazing to watch, I just gave you his method. regards, John Good technique...thanks for sharing. TMT |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
On Aug 29, 12:34 pm, Gunner wrote:
On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 21:25:43 +1000, "Johnno" jjohnson61atoptusnetdotcomdotau wrote: Suggestions are gladly considered Gunner Gunner, I have done this using paint stripper, the trick is to tape over any gaps and edges, and use the stripper only on the big areas, keep it out of the cracks and crevices, and at least half an inch back from any edge. If the stripper goes into or around a door edge, it will triple your time to clean it up and fix the paint in there. Use newspaper on the ground under the edges of the body, then just roll it up, no mess. Do it in the shade, the sun dries the stripper out too fast. Hose off the rest. Once the paint is gone from the main panels, sand the remaining bits around the edges using an orbital or DA sander, it will dissappear in no time. Run the sander over the main panels, to give the new paint something to stick to, P80 or 100 grit freecut paper. Give the insides a quick rub over with fine scotchbrite, clean it off and it's ready for paint. I had a friend who did this quite often, he could strip the paint off a car in a couple of hours in a dinner suit, and not get dirty. OK, the dinner suit is an exageration, but it was amazing to watch, I just gave you his method. regards, John Thanks guys! I think Ill use the stripper method, after the sun has gone down and the thing has cooled. I tried my heated pressure washer (Hotsie) and it didnt do much good. Any brand of stripper better than others, available from the big box stores or paint supply places? Gunner- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Apply the stripper and cover it with anything to slow evaporation...newspaper, wax paper...even a old sheet....just don't put it back on your bed...;). Hot weather causes the stripper to evaporate far too quickly. Also if you are goingt to spray paint, wait for it to cool down...I have had many finishes ruined by painting when it was too hot...call me impatient. TMT |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
On Aug 29, 8:09 pm, Larry Jaques
wrote: On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 10:34:05 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm, Gunner quickly quoth: Thanks guys! I think Ill use the stripper method, after the sun has gone down and the thing has cooled. Down to 90F? ;) It was 100F here today. How melted was Taft? I tried my heated pressure washer (Hotsie) and it didnt do much good. Those don't have all that much high pressure, do they? I picked up a Karcher 3kpsi PW last month and have used it 3 times already for clients. It was a good investment. Any brand of stripper better than others, available from the big box stores or paint supply places? Jasco at the Borgs. Anything with Methylene Chloride (or was it MEK? I forgot.) is the good stuff. It'll take off epoxies and polyurethanes, too. It's $30/gallon, though. Try brake fluid first, though. It's cheaper (if not free) from the brake shop. Another way to stretch your stripper is to put a couple layers of newsprint on top. It helps keep it from evaporating too quickly. -- According to our strength of character and our clarity of vision, we will endure, we will succeed, we will have contributed something to make life where we were and as we lived it better, brighter, and more beautiful. -- Frank Lloyd Wright Anything with Methylene Chloride (or was it MEK? I forgot.) is the good stuff. True...and it will screw up your liver fast. And if your liver already problems..some of us drink too much...it won't take much to put you six feet under. Use protection....really. TMT |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
On Aug 30, 1:28 pm, Gunner wrote:
On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 18:09:35 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote: On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 10:34:05 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm, Gunner quickly quoth: Thanks guys! I think Ill use the stripper method, after the sun has gone down and the thing has cooled. Down to 90F? ;) It was 100F here today. How melted was Taft? I dont know..Ive not been home for 3 weeks..worked straight through on finishing up the Project...Ill be home Friday..with luck. I tried my heated pressure washer (Hotsie) and it didnt do much good. Those don't have all that much high pressure, do they? I picked up a Karcher 3kpsi PW last month and have used it 3 times already for clients. It was a good investment. They put out a pretty good pressure stream. Ehough to have stripped all the paint off my old Rangers fraime .. Any brand of stripper better than others, available from the big box stores or paint supply places? Jasco at the Borgs. Anything with Methylene Chloride (or was it MEK? I forgot.) is the good stuff. It'll take off epoxies and polyurethanes, too. It's $30/gallon, though. Cringe..... Try brake fluid first, though. It's cheaper (if not free) from the brake shop. Another way to stretch your stripper is to put a couple layers of newsprint on top. It helps keep it from evaporating too quickly. Not a bad idea! Gunner Actually if you apply stripper, cover with a sheet, cover with wax paper, let it work, drink Mountain Dew, then move the stripper impegnanted sheet to the next part, repeat...the stripper will go a very long way...the Mountain Dew well I can't do miracles. Oh yeah about methylene chloride, don't use it if you are pregnant. ;) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dichloromethane TMT |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
"Too_Many_Tools" wrote in message ups.com... On Aug 29, 12:34 pm, Gunner wrote: On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 21:25:43 +1000, "Johnno" jjohnson61atoptusnetdotcomdotau wrote: Suggestions are gladly considered Gunner Gunner, I have done this using paint stripper, the trick is to tape over any gaps and edges, and use the stripper only on the big areas, keep it out of the cracks and crevices, and at least half an inch back from any edge. If the stripper goes into or around a door edge, it will triple your time to clean it up and fix the paint in there. Use newspaper on the ground under the edges of the body, then just roll it up, no mess. Do it in the shade, the sun dries the stripper out too fast. Hose off the rest. Once the paint is gone from the main panels, sand the remaining bits around the edges using an orbital or DA sander, it will dissappear in no time. Run the sander over the main panels, to give the new paint something to stick to, P80 or 100 grit freecut paper. Give the insides a quick rub over with fine scotchbrite, clean it off and it's ready for paint. I had a friend who did this quite often, he could strip the paint off a car in a couple of hours in a dinner suit, and not get dirty. OK, the dinner suit is an exageration, but it was amazing to watch, I just gave you his method. regards, John Thanks guys! I think Ill use the stripper method, after the sun has gone down and the thing has cooled. I tried my heated pressure washer (Hotsie) and it didnt do much good. Any brand of stripper better than others, available from the big box stores or paint supply places? Gunner- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Apply the stripper and cover it with anything to slow evaporation...newspaper, wax paper...even a old sheet....just don't put it back on your bed...;). Hot weather causes the stripper to evaporate far too quickly. I cover methylene chloride stripper, and my homemade lye-based house stripper, with cheap polyethylene drop cloths -- the 99-cent kind. It works very well. -- Ed Huntress |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
On Thu, 30 Aug 2007 15:58:52 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote: On Thu, 30 Aug 2007 11:28:16 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm, Gunner quickly quoth: On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 18:09:35 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote: Down to 90F? ;) It was 100F here today. How melted was Taft? I dont know..Ive not been home for 3 weeks..worked straight through on finishing up the Project...Ill be home Friday..with luck. Ooh, a good paycheck this month, eh? Frankly..Ive made more on the Project in 4 months..than I grossed all of last year..or really close. My creditors are in love with me. I tried my heated pressure washer (Hotsie) and it didnt do much good. Those don't have all that much high pressure, do they? I picked up a Karcher 3kpsi PW last month and have used it 3 times already for clients. It was a good investment. They put out a pretty good pressure stream. Ehough to have stripped all the paint off my old Rangers fraime .. The last Hotsie I used put out more steam than it did pressure. I'd give it maybe 500psi. This is not a steamer..but a HOT water pressure washer. Or the injector is adjusted wrongly. Any brand of stripper better than others, available from the big box stores or paint supply places? Jasco at the Borgs. Anything with Methylene Chloride (or was it MEK? I forgot.) is the good stuff. It'll take off epoxies and polyurethanes, too. It's $30/gallon, though. Cringe..... But that $30 saves you at least a full day's work. True indeed. Try brake fluid first, though. It's cheaper (if not free) from the brake shop. Another way to stretch your stripper is to put a couple layers of newsprint on top. It helps keep it from evaporating too quickly. Not a bad idea! Which, the brake fluid or the newsprint? Both of course!! Gunner ------------------------------------------ Do the voices in my head bother you? ------------------------------------------ |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
On Thu, 30 Aug 2007 16:26:08 -0700, Too_Many_Tools
wrote: .some of us drink too much...it TMT That explains much Gunner, teetotaler |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
On Aug 30, 1:28 pm, Gunner wrote:
On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 18:09:35 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote: On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 10:34:05 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm, Gunner quickly quoth: Thanks guys! I think Ill use the stripper method, after the sun has gone down and the thing has cooled. Down to 90F? ;) It was 100F here today. How melted was Taft? I dont know..Ive not been home for 3 weeks..worked straight through on finishing up the Project...Ill be home Friday..with luck. I tried my heated pressure washer (Hotsie) and it didnt do much good. Those don't have all that much high pressure, do they? I picked up a Karcher 3kpsi PW last month and have used it 3 times already for clients. It was a good investment. They put out a pretty good pressure stream. Ehough to have stripped all the paint off my old Rangers fraime .. Any brand of stripper better than others, available from the big box stores or paint supply places? Jasco at the Borgs. Anything with Methylene Chloride (or was it MEK? I forgot.) is the good stuff. It'll take off epoxies and polyurethanes, too. It's $30/gallon, though. Cringe..... Try brake fluid first, though. It's cheaper (if not free) from the brake shop. Another way to stretch your stripper is to put a couple layers of newsprint on top. It helps keep it from evaporating too quickly. Not a bad idea! Gunner Actually if you apply stripper, cover with a sheet, cover with wax paper, let it work, drink Mountain Dew, then move the stripper impegnanted sheet to the next part, repeat...the stripper will go a very long way...the Mountain Dew well I can't do miracles....yet. Oh yeah about methylene chloride, don't use it if you are pregnant. ;) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dichloromethane TMT |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
On Thu, 30 Aug 2007 17:28:04 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
Gunner quickly quoth: On Thu, 30 Aug 2007 15:58:52 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote: On Thu, 30 Aug 2007 11:28:16 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm, Gunner quickly quoth: On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 18:09:35 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote: Down to 90F? ;) It was 100F here today. How melted was Taft? I dont know..Ive not been home for 3 weeks..worked straight through on finishing up the Project...Ill be home Friday..with luck. Ooh, a good paycheck this month, eh? Frankly..Ive made more on the Project in 4 months..than I grossed all of last year..or really close. My creditors are in love with me. If you're that rich now, you should -have- any more creditors. Hmm, unless that's how you met the tall panter the other night... This is not a steamer..but a HOT water pressure washer. Or the injector is adjusted wrongly. Oh, OK. I've heard about dem jobbers but haven't seen one yet. Not a bad idea! Which, the brake fluid or the newsprint? Both of course!! Bueno, bwana. Have fun! ------------------------------------------ Do the voices in my head bother you? ------------------------------------------ |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
Larry Jaques wrote:
Do the voices in my head bother you? After reading THIS newsgroup full of trolls, political wackos, anti-America idiots and assholes that don't know NOT to pick up a red hot horse shoe?? Get real! -- Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to prove it. Member of DAV #85. Michael A. Terrell Central Florida |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
On Fri, 31 Aug 2007 05:53:04 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote: On Thu, 30 Aug 2007 17:28:04 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm, Gunner quickly quoth: On Thu, 30 Aug 2007 15:58:52 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote: On Thu, 30 Aug 2007 11:28:16 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm, Gunner quickly quoth: On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 18:09:35 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote: Down to 90F? ;) It was 100F here today. How melted was Taft? I dont know..Ive not been home for 3 weeks..worked straight through on finishing up the Project...Ill be home Friday..with luck. Ooh, a good paycheck this month, eh? Frankly..Ive made more on the Project in 4 months..than I grossed all of last year..or really close. My creditors are in love with me. If you're that rich now, you should -have- any more creditors. Hmm, unless that's how you met the tall panter the other night... Not rich, not even well off..but working on paying off at least 5 yrs worth of back medical bills, property taxes and so forth. When its gone..Ill be back to being broke, but Ill have positioned myself a bit better off as far as rolling stock and needed work tools and gotten a few creditors off my back. This is not a steamer..but a HOT water pressure washer. Or the injector is adjusted wrongly. Oh, OK. I've heard about dem jobbers but haven't seen one yet. Not a bad idea! Which, the brake fluid or the newsprint? Both of course!! Bueno, bwana. Have fun! ------------------------------------------ Do the voices in my head bother you? ------------------------------------------ Thanks! Gunner |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 18:09:35 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote: Try brake fluid first, though. It's cheaper (if not free) from the brake shop. Another way to stretch your stripper is to put a couple layers of newsprint on top. It helps keep it from evaporating too quickly. I would NOT use brake fluid as a paint stripper or for anything other than it's intended use in a brake system. Chemical Paint Strippers can be neutralized (read the label) and after being neutralized they stop stripping paint and don't harm the environment too much. But AFAIK you can't neutralize brake fluid, and it's still going to give the folks at the regional sewer plant a headache when that slug of contaminated sewage comes through. And if you hose the effluent into a storm drain you're going to cause a world of hurt to the critters that live in that creek. -- Bruce -- |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
On Sun, 02 Sep 2007 00:44:39 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm,
Bruce L. Bergman quickly quoth: On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 18:09:35 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote: Try brake fluid first, though. It's cheaper (if not free) from the brake shop. Another way to stretch your stripper is to put a couple layers of newsprint on top. It helps keep it from evaporating too quickly. I would NOT use brake fluid as a paint stripper or for anything other than it's intended use in a brake system. This looks just like a legal disclaimer, Bruce. ;) Chemical Paint Strippers can be neutralized (read the label) and after being neutralized they stop stripping paint and don't harm the environment too much. Other than at refinishing businesses where recycling is a reality, I've never known anyone to attempt to neutralize paint stripper, and I've seen a lot of stripping in 54 years. But AFAIK you can't neutralize brake fluid, and it's still going to give the folks at the regional sewer plant a headache when that slug of contaminated sewage comes through. And if you hose the effluent into a storm drain you're going to cause a world of hurt to the critters that live in that creek. I've also never known anyone rude enough to flush it. Most chem strippers will evaporate and the paint rehardens. It's always trashed. Ida thunk he'd simply wad up the newspapers and trash 'em like everyone else. YMOV -- "Not always right, but never uncertain." --Heinlein -=-=- |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message ... On Sun, 02 Sep 2007 00:44:39 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm, Bruce L. Bergman quickly quoth: On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 18:09:35 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote: Try brake fluid first, though. It's cheaper (if not free) from the brake shop. Another way to stretch your stripper is to put a couple layers of newsprint on top. It helps keep it from evaporating too quickly. I would NOT use brake fluid as a paint stripper or for anything other than it's intended use in a brake system. This looks just like a legal disclaimer, Bruce. ;) Chemical Paint Strippers can be neutralized (read the label) and after being neutralized they stop stripping paint and don't harm the environment too much. Other than at refinishing businesses where recycling is a reality, I've never known anyone to attempt to neutralize paint stripper, and I've seen a lot of stripping in 54 years. In large volume operations, methylene chloride is "neutralized" with household chlorine bleach. I have no idea what the chemistry is. In small applications, like a car, the stuff is so volatile that it's probably going to evaporate before you can "neutralize" it. I've always used TSP to wash it off, on the recommendation of a manufacturer of the stuff who I called about it 30 years ago. Old info, and worth double-checking. But AFAIK you can't neutralize brake fluid, and it's still going to give the folks at the regional sewer plant a headache when that slug of contaminated sewage comes through. And if you hose the effluent into a storm drain you're going to cause a world of hurt to the critters that live in that creek. I've also never known anyone rude enough to flush it. Most chem strippers will evaporate and the paint rehardens. It's always trashed. Ida thunk he'd simply wad up the newspapers and trash 'em like everyone else. YMOV Brake fluid will not evaporate. If you have some that evaporates and you put it in your car, you're going to crash. d8-) It's non-volatile, toxic, and pernicious as hell. There are few worse things you can throw in the trash or allow to get into a storm sewer. It's a bitch to get the last bit of film from the stuff off of a surface. I would never consider using it on anything I was going to paint. Regarding methylene chloride, the big danger is that it causes the generation of carbon monoxide in your blood, if you inhale a lot of it. It can cause heart attacks. Use it outdoors and downwind. Today's commercial strippers can consist of all kinds of weird chemicals. Here's a pretty good rundown of strippers sold to consumers. It applies to use on wood, but those are the strippers you're going to find on store shelves, anyway: http://www.woodzone.com/articles/paint_stripper.htm -- Ed Huntress |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
On Aug 28, 8:48 pm, Bob Engelhardt wrote:
wrote: I've done a whole car with stripper, one panel at a time. It's messy, it's nasty, it's FAST. ... body shop supply, picked up a quart of aircraft finish stripper. 15 minutes after application, the paint had bubbled off and just rinsed away. ... Wow - good stuff! Do you remember how much it took to do the whole car? Bob I think I went through the better part of a gallon can over the summer. Was a VW Squareback, I could take body panels off, hang them up and do what I needed to do one at a time. Badly weathered paint, worn through to the primer in a lot of places, but it still stuck very wel! Stan |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
On Sun, 2 Sep 2007 09:11:28 -0400, with neither quill nor qualm, "Ed
Huntress" quickly quoth: "Larry Jaques" wrote in message .. . On Sun, 02 Sep 2007 00:44:39 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm, Bruce L. Bergman quickly quoth: On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 18:09:35 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote: Try brake fluid first, though. It's cheaper (if not free) from the brake shop. Another way to stretch your stripper is to put a couple layers of newsprint on top. It helps keep it from evaporating too quickly. I would NOT use brake fluid as a paint stripper or for anything other than it's intended use in a brake system. This looks just like a legal disclaimer, Bruce. ;) Chemical Paint Strippers can be neutralized (read the label) and after being neutralized they stop stripping paint and don't harm the environment too much. Other than at refinishing businesses where recycling is a reality, I've never known anyone to attempt to neutralize paint stripper, and I've seen a lot of stripping in 54 years. In large volume operations, methylene chloride is "neutralized" with household chlorine bleach. I have no idea what the chemistry is. In small applications, like a car, the stuff is so volatile that it's probably going to evaporate before you can "neutralize" it. I've always used TSP to wash it off, on the recommendation of a manufacturer of the stuff who I called about it 30 years ago. Old info, and worth double-checking. But AFAIK you can't neutralize brake fluid, and it's still going to give the folks at the regional sewer plant a headache when that slug of contaminated sewage comes through. And if you hose the effluent into a storm drain you're going to cause a world of hurt to the critters that live in that creek. I've also never known anyone rude enough to flush it. Most chem strippers will evaporate and the paint rehardens. It's always trashed. Ida thunk he'd simply wad up the newspapers and trash 'em like everyone else. YMOV Brake fluid will not evaporate. If you have some that evaporates and you put it in your car, you're going to crash. d8-) I said "most chem strippers will evaporate". I know brake fluid doesn't. It's non-volatile, toxic, and pernicious as hell. There are few worse things you can throw in the trash or allow to get into a storm sewer. It's a bitch What's worse: 5 gallons of thinners in the air or half a gallon of glycol-ether-based brake fluid in the dump? I wonder what the chemical result of it breaking down paint is, what it turns into. Less harmful, one might hope? to get the last bit of film from the stuff off of a surface. I would never consider using it on anything I was going to paint. Wuss. ;) Quick cleanup: wipe dry, wash with soap and water, dry again, and spray and wipe with cleaner. Berryman's B-12 takes it off quickly and easily, even from porous brake shoes. I've also used naphtha and/or lacquer thinner (my most-used cleaner) after brake jobs. On non-porous metal, it's a quick deal. Soap and water take 99% of it off and the thinner takes the last 1% film. Not a prob. B-12 contains toluene, methanol, heptanes, and acetone. Don't breathe it deeply, either. Regarding methylene chloride, the big danger is that it causes the generation of carbon monoxide in your blood, if you inhale a lot of it. It can cause heart attacks. Use it outdoors and downwind. Absolutely. That's nastyass stuff. Today's commercial strippers can consist of all kinds of weird chemicals. Here's a pretty good rundown of strippers sold to consumers. It applies to use on wood, but those are the strippers you're going to find on store shelves, anyway: http://www.woodzone.com/articles/paint_stripper.htm Informative. Danke. -- "Not always right, but never uncertain." --Heinlein -=-=- |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message ... On Sun, 2 Sep 2007 09:11:28 -0400, with neither quill nor qualm, "Ed Huntress" quickly quoth: "Larry Jaques" wrote in message . .. On Sun, 02 Sep 2007 00:44:39 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm, Bruce L. Bergman quickly quoth: On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 18:09:35 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote: Try brake fluid first, though. It's cheaper (if not free) from the brake shop. Another way to stretch your stripper is to put a couple layers of newsprint on top. It helps keep it from evaporating too quickly. I would NOT use brake fluid as a paint stripper or for anything other than it's intended use in a brake system. This looks just like a legal disclaimer, Bruce. ;) Chemical Paint Strippers can be neutralized (read the label) and after being neutralized they stop stripping paint and don't harm the environment too much. Other than at refinishing businesses where recycling is a reality, I've never known anyone to attempt to neutralize paint stripper, and I've seen a lot of stripping in 54 years. In large volume operations, methylene chloride is "neutralized" with household chlorine bleach. I have no idea what the chemistry is. In small applications, like a car, the stuff is so volatile that it's probably going to evaporate before you can "neutralize" it. I've always used TSP to wash it off, on the recommendation of a manufacturer of the stuff who I called about it 30 years ago. Old info, and worth double-checking. But AFAIK you can't neutralize brake fluid, and it's still going to give the folks at the regional sewer plant a headache when that slug of contaminated sewage comes through. And if you hose the effluent into a storm drain you're going to cause a world of hurt to the critters that live in that creek. I've also never known anyone rude enough to flush it. Most chem strippers will evaporate and the paint rehardens. It's always trashed. Ida thunk he'd simply wad up the newspapers and trash 'em like everyone else. YMOV Brake fluid will not evaporate. If you have some that evaporates and you put it in your car, you're going to crash. d8-) I said "most chem strippers will evaporate". I know brake fluid doesn't. It's non-volatile, toxic, and pernicious as hell. There are few worse things you can throw in the trash or allow to get into a storm sewer. It's a bitch What's worse: 5 gallons of thinners in the air or half a gallon of glycol-ether-based brake fluid in the dump? I'd go for the thinners in the air, if you went gallon-for-gallon. In that 10:1 ratio you propose, I couldn't guess. I wonder what the chemical result of it breaking down paint is, what it turns into. Less harmful, one might hope? Ya' got me. Chemistry makes my head hurt. to get the last bit of film from the stuff off of a surface. I would never consider using it on anything I was going to paint. Wuss. ;) Quick cleanup: wipe dry, wash with soap and water, dry again, and spray and wipe with cleaner. Berryman's B-12 takes it off quickly and easily, even from porous brake shoes. I've also used naphtha and/or lacquer thinner (my most-used cleaner) after brake jobs. On non-porous metal, it's a quick deal. Soap and water take 99% of it off and the thinner takes the last 1% film. Not a prob. B-12 contains toluene, methanol, heptanes, and acetone. Don't breathe it deeply, either. Regarding methylene chloride, the big danger is that it causes the generation of carbon monoxide in your blood, if you inhale a lot of it. It can cause heart attacks. Use it outdoors and downwind. Absolutely. That's nastyass stuff. Today's commercial strippers can consist of all kinds of weird chemicals. Here's a pretty good rundown of strippers sold to consumers. It applies to use on wood, but those are the strippers you're going to find on store shelves, anyway: http://www.woodzone.com/articles/paint_stripper.htm Informative. Danke. -- "Not always right, but never uncertain." --Heinlein -=-=- -- Ed Huntress |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
Best paint stripper I ever found was trichlorethylene. Drop the
painted item into a pan of tri' , wait a half hour and lift the item out sans paint. Gerry :-)} London, Canada |
Best way to strip flaking paint on a trailer body and sheetmetal
On Sun, 02 Sep 2007 00:44:39 -0700, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote: On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 18:09:35 -0700, Larry Jaques wrote: Try brake fluid first, though. It's cheaper (if not free) from the brake shop. Another way to stretch your stripper is to put a couple layers of newsprint on top. It helps keep it from evaporating too quickly. I would NOT use brake fluid as a paint stripper or for anything other than it's intended use in a brake system. Chemical Paint Strippers can be neutralized (read the label) and after being neutralized they stop stripping paint and don't harm the environment too much. But AFAIK you can't neutralize brake fluid, and it's still going to give the folks at the regional sewer plant a headache when that slug of contaminated sewage comes through. And if you hose the effluent into a storm drain you're going to cause a world of hurt to the critters that live in that creek. -- Bruce -- Bruce..sewer? Creek? This is Taft, one of the armpits of the world. We have creeks...called "oil ditches" Gunner |
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