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Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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how would you size a hinge pin on a home built log loader arm.
Hello folks, I built a sawmill a couple years ago and all the manual
moving of logs has got me a bit depressed. Now I'm thinking about building a log loader which is basically a front loader like arm with a grapple. I haven't started designing or building this yet just thinking it out a little. At the hinge points I will be using hardened pins but I'm not sure of a couple things. 1. how to size them (if someone could point to an equation let me know) or I'll just way oversize them and forget calculating them. 2. should these pins be in bushings and if so what material should these bushing be? I've been trying to get a close look at front loaders but haven't seen any around lately LOL. Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks |
#2
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how would you size a hinge pin on a home built log loader arm.
On Mon, 27 Aug 2007 13:48:22 GMT, Modat22 wrote:
At the hinge points I will be using hardened pins but I'm not sure of a couple things. 1. how to size them (if someone could point to an equation let me know) or I'll just way oversize them and forget calculating them. 2. should these pins be in bushings and if so what material should these bushing be? Machinery's Handbook has the information you need in the section on plain bearings. Since this is a slow speed app, you're interested primarily in the load bearing (pressure) capacity of materials rather than PV (pressure x velocity) limits. Ability to run in the presence of dirt is also presumably a consideration. -- Ned Simmons |
#3
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how would you size a hinge pin on a home built log loader arm.
As an engineer, years ago, I became quite fond of the term, shamelessly
plagiarized. Find a grapple and copy it. Worth your time to look around. You'll do even better if you find two different models and take the best from each. Nearly all units like this have 1" pins. Use McMaster Carr W1 grade for the material. I've not seen bushings on backhoes and loaders. I suspect you won't on grapples either. Karl |
#4
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how would you size a hinge pin on a home built log loader arm.
On Aug 27, 6:48 am, Modat22 wrote:
Hello folks, I built a sawmill a couple years ago and all the manual moving of logs has got me a bit depressed. Now I'm thinking about building a log loader which is basically a front loader like arm with a grapple. I haven't started designing or building this yet just thinking it out a little. At the hinge points I will be using hardened pins but I'm not sure of a couple things. 1. how to size them (if someone could point to an equation let me know) or I'll just way oversize them and forget calculating them. 2. should these pins be in bushings and if so what material should these bushing be? I've been trying to get a close look at front loaders but haven't seen any around lately LOL. Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks Just don't forget the grease fittings. dennis in nca |
#5
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how would you size a hinge pin on a home built log loader arm.
On Mon, 27 Aug 2007 13:48:22 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm,
Modat22 quickly quoth: Hello folks, I built a sawmill a couple years ago and all the manual moving of logs has got me a bit depressed. Now I'm thinking about building a log loader which is basically a front loader like arm with a grapple. I haven't started designing or building this yet just thinking it out a little. At the hinge points I will be using hardened pins but I'm not sure of a couple things. 1. how to size them (if someone could point to an equation let me know) or I'll just way oversize them and forget calculating them. That's my preferred plan. Better too strong than too weak, right? Weight is the only other consideration. Find balance, Grasshoppa. 2. should these pins be in bushings and if so what material should these bushing be? These guys might be of service: http://www.backhoeplans.com/ http://www.ubuilditplans.com/webpage4_page2.htm http://cdp-backhoe.com/plans.htm Or just buy cheapies from HF. Call to find part numbers. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93167 ------ We're born hungry, wet, 'n naked, and it gets worse from there. |
#6
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how would you size a hinge pin on a home built log loader arm.
On Aug 27, 9:48 am, Modat22 wrote:
Hello folks, I built a sawmill a couple years ago and all the manual moving of logs has got me a bit depressed. Now I'm thinking about building a log loader which is basically a front loader like arm with a grapple. I haven't started designing or building this yet just thinking it out a little. At the hinge points I will be using hardened pins but I'm not sure of a couple things. 1. how to size them (if someone could point to an equation let me know) or I'll just way oversize them and forget calculating them. 2. should these pins be in bushings and if so what material should these bushing be? I've been trying to get a close look at front loaders but haven't seen any around lately LOL. Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks I built a front end loader a few years ago and got a sawmill running earlier this month. The simplest way I know to move logs is shear legs set up at one end of the sawmill track so you can lift logs out of a truck or trailer and lower and position them on the track. I used 2" pipe for the shear legs with a chain fall hanging in the center and block-and-tackles tied to large trees on either end to pull the rig from side to side. The front end loader is built on a Sears GT18 garden tractor, which is too small to lift 400 - 700Lb oak logs. It's already blown both front tires moving wet snow. I used O-1 drill rod for the pivot pins and brass water pipe for the bushings on the front end loader, although as someone else noted commercial loaders run steel on steel and grease daily. The biggest problem was retaining the pins. I TIG welded flat plates on one end and bolted the plate to the frame but several of the welds broke at the end of the heated zone. I packed the rest in charcoal and annealed them, losing a little surface finish but ending the breakage. Jim Wilkins |
#7
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how would you size a hinge pin on a home built log loader arm.
In article ,
Modat22 wrote: 1. how to size them (if someone could point to an equation let me know) or I'll just way oversize them and forget calculating them. 2. should these pins be in bushings and if so what material should these bushing be? The bigger the pin, the lower the (unit) pressure. That makes for happier bearings. My backhoe (which makes pretty good log mover with some hooks and chain) is bushed, but it's bushed with steel on most of the serious points. Some of the steering is bushed with bronze. Grease daily - partly for lube, partly to keep moving the dirt out. I rebushed some points with a steel-backed teflon bearing of very high PV from MSC. If it's bushed, even with plain steel, you just drive out the bush and put in a new one - simple. Often the bushes are also hardened, and you replace bushes and pins as a set - they may also be soft, and you replace just the bush most of the time. If it's not bushed, or (thank the idiot that had my backhoe before I was dumb enough to buy it) worn so far that the wear is outside of the bushing, you need to weld it up and line-bore it - a pain in the buttocks, specialized equipment, etc... -- Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by |
#8
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how would you size a hinge pin on a home built log loader arm.
"rigger" wrote in message oups.com... On Aug 27, 6:48 am, Modat22 wrote: Hello folks, I built a sawmill a couple years ago and all the manual moving of logs has got me a bit depressed. Now I'm thinking about building a log loader which is basically a front loader like arm with a grapple. I haven't started designing or building this yet just thinking it out a little. At the hinge points I will be using hardened pins but I'm not sure of a couple things. 1. how to size them (if someone could point to an equation let me know) or I'll just way oversize them and forget calculating them. 2. should these pins be in bushings and if so what material should these bushing be? I've been trying to get a close look at front loaders but haven't seen any around lately LOL. Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks Just don't forget the grease fittings. And just as important is to USE those grease fittings. Can't tell you how many times someone comes in the shop to have a bearing like thing bored out "because the damn thing is made so cheap, it doesn't last" only to find out that the thing hasn't seen grease since it was built....10 years ago. Mike |
#9
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how would you size a hinge pin on a home built log loader arm.
On Mon, 27 Aug 2007 22:27:16 GMT, Ecnerwal
wrote: The bigger the pin, the lower the (unit) pressure. That makes for happier bearings. My backhoe (which makes pretty good log mover with some hooks and chain) is bushed, but it's bushed with steel on most of the serious points. Some of the steering is bushed with bronze. Grease daily - partly for lube, partly to keep moving the dirt out. I rebushed some points with a steel-backed teflon bearing of very high PV from MSC. If it's bushed, even with plain steel, you just drive out the bush and put in a new one - simple. Often the bushes are also hardened, and you replace bushes and pins as a set - they may also be soft, and you replace just the bush most of the time. If it's not bushed, or (thank the idiot that had my backhoe before I was dumb enough to buy it) worn so far that the wear is outside of the bushing, you need to weld it up and line-bore it - a pain in the buttocks, specialized equipment, etc... Hadn't thought about using hardened bushings, that's a really good idea and pretty easy to do. Thanks everyone for the replies. |
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