I'm looking at a nice little fishing boat/cruiser with a Detroit 353,
only about 1000 hours on it, runs great. I know this is one of the
more reliable diesels ever made, but I have heard some not-so-good
things about the ones that came with aluminum blocks. The boat was
built in 1987, so the engine is at least that old. The owner doesn't
know much about it.

Is there a way to tell which version it is?

Thanks,

Bob

What are you asking here? How to tell if the block is aluminum or not? Try a
magnet.
42

"Bob" wrote in message
ups.com...
I'm looking at a nice little fishing boat/cruiser with a Detroit 353,
only about 1000 hours on it, runs great. I know this is one of the
more reliable diesels ever made, but I have heard some not-so-good
things about the ones that came with aluminum blocks. The boat was
built in 1987, so the engine is at least that old. The owner doesn't
know much about it.

Is there a way to tell which version it is?

Thanks,

Bob




--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

On Aug 19, 8:54 pm, "42etus" wrote:
What are you asking here? How to tell if the block is aluminum or not? Try a
magnet.
42

"Bob" wrote in message

ups.com...

I'm looking at a nice little fishing boat/cruiser with a Detroit 353,
only about 1000 hours on it, runs great. I know this is one of the
more reliable diesels ever made, but I have heard some not-so-good
things about the ones that came with aluminum blocks. The boat was
built in 1987, so the engine is at least that old. The owner doesn't
know much about it.

Is there a way to tell which version it is?

Thanks,

Bob

--
Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com

Uh, duh --- I plead brain fart! Sometime the obvious solution just
ain't so obvious. Of course...


Anybody know what the problems with the AL block versions might be?
Haven't heard any specifics, just "don't get one with an aluminum
block".

Bob,
Just make sure to check the block and the heads separate of eachother.
It's very common for an iron block to be mated with aluminum heads.

Respects,

Rob Fraser

Fraser Competition Engines
Chicago, IL.

"Bob" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Aug 19, 8:54 pm, "42etus" wrote:
What are you asking here? How to tell if the block is aluminum or not?
Try a
magnet.
42

"Bob" wrote in message

ups.com...

I'm looking at a nice little fishing boat/cruiser with a Detroit 353,
only about 1000 hours on it, runs great. I know this is one of the
more reliable diesels ever made, but I have heard some not-so-good
things about the ones that came with aluminum blocks. The boat was
built in 1987, so the engine is at least that old. The owner doesn't
know much about it.

Is there a way to tell which version it is?

Thanks,

Bob

--
Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com

Uh, duh --- I plead brain fart! Sometime the obvious solution just
ain't so obvious. Of course...


Anybody know what the problems with the AL block versions might be?
Haven't heard any specifics, just "don't get one with an aluminum
block".

On Aug 19, 11:14 pm, "RDF" wrote:
Bob,
Just make sure to check the block and the heads separate of eachother.
It's very common for an iron block to be mated with aluminum heads.

Respects,

Rob Fraser

Fraser Competition Engines
Chicago, IL.

"Bob" wrote in message

oups.com...



On Aug 19, 8:54 pm, "42etus" wrote:
What are you asking here? How to tell if the block is aluminum or not?
Try a
magnet.
42

"Bob" wrote in message

roups.com...

I'm looking at a nice little fishing boat/cruiser with a Detroit 353,
only about 1000 hours on it, runs great. I know this is one of the
more reliable diesels ever made, but I have heard some not-so-good
things about the ones that came with aluminum blocks. The boat was
built in 1987, so the engine is at least that old. The owner doesn't
know much about it.

Is there a way to tell which version it is?

Thanks,

Bob

--
Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com

Uh, duh --- I plead brain fart! Sometime the obvious solution just
ain't so obvious. Of course...

Anybody know what the problems with the AL block versions might be?
Haven't heard any specifics, just "don't get one with an aluminum
block".- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'm not sure if detroit had any engines with aluminum heads, and I'm
amazed to know they did produce a diesel with an aluminum block.
I would say that the majority of problems would be electrolisis (sp)
eating away the block especially if raw water cooling in salt water.
also the problem with mis matching materials (AL block, copper gasket,
and cast iron head) would be the expansion and contraction issue witht
he aluminum eventually wearing the head gaskets out. But don't know
that for a fact.

Wow, a 3-53 in a boat"? 159 cubic inches!

is this for a gen set? or the main engine?

"Tim" wrote in message
ps.com...
On Aug 19, 11:14 pm, "RDF" wrote:
Bob,
Just make sure to check the block and the heads separate of eachother.
It's very common for an iron block to be mated with aluminum heads.

Respects,

Rob Fraser

Fraser Competition Engines
Chicago, IL.

"Bob" wrote in message

oups.com...



On Aug 19, 8:54 pm, "42etus" wrote:
What are you asking here? How to tell if the block is aluminum or not?
Try a
magnet.
42

"Bob" wrote in message

roups.com...

I'm looking at a nice little fishing boat/cruiser with a Detroit
353,
only about 1000 hours on it, runs great. I know this is one of the
more reliable diesels ever made, but I have heard some not-so-good
things about the ones that came with aluminum blocks. The boat was
built in 1987, so the engine is at least that old. The owner
doesn't
know much about it.

Is there a way to tell which version it is?

Thanks,

Bob

--
Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com

Uh, duh --- I plead brain fart! Sometime the obvious solution just
ain't so obvious. Of course...

Anybody know what the problems with the AL block versions might be?
Haven't heard any specifics, just "don't get one with an aluminum
block".- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'm not sure if detroit had any engines with aluminum heads, and I'm
amazed to know they did produce a diesel with an aluminum block.
I would say that the majority of problems would be electrolisis (sp)
eating away the block especially if raw water cooling in salt water.
also the problem with mis matching materials (AL block, copper gasket,
and cast iron head) would be the expansion and contraction issue witht
he aluminum eventually wearing the head gaskets out. But don't know
that for a fact.

Wow, a 3-53 in a boat"? 159 cubic inches!




Yes, but it being a 2 Cycle multiply that by 2 and add a blower.
Steve





is this for a gen set? or the main engine?

On Aug 19, 10:35 pm, Tim wrote:
On Aug 19, 11:14 pm, "RDF" wrote:





Bob,
Just make sure to check the block and the heads separate of eachother.
It's very common for an iron block to be mated with aluminum heads.

Respects,

Rob Fraser

Fraser Competition Engines
Chicago, IL.

"Bob" wrote in message

roups.com...

On Aug 19, 8:54 pm, "42etus" wrote:
What are you asking here? How to tell if the block is aluminum or not?
Try a
magnet.
42

"Bob" wrote in message

roups.com...

I'm looking at a nice little fishing boat/cruiser with a Detroit 353,
only about 1000 hours on it, runs great. I know this is one of the
more reliable diesels ever made, but I have heard some not-so-good
things about the ones that came with aluminum blocks. The boat was
built in 1987, so the engine is at least that old. The owner doesn't
know much about it.

Is there a way to tell which version it is?

Thanks,

Bob

--
Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com

Uh, duh --- I plead brain fart! Sometime the obvious solution just
ain't so obvious. Of course...

Anybody know what the problems with the AL block versions might be?
Haven't heard any specifics, just "don't get one with an aluminum
block".- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'm not sure if detroit had any engines with aluminum heads, and I'm
amazed to know they did produce a diesel with an aluminum block.
I would say that the majority of problems would be electrolisis (sp)
eating away the block especially if raw water cooling in salt water.
also the problem with mis matching materials (AL block, copper gasket,
and cast iron head) would be the expansion and contraction issue witht
he aluminum eventually wearing the head gaskets out. But don't know
that for a fact.

Wow, a 3-53 in a boat"? 159 cubic inches!

is this for a gen set? or the main engine?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Tim --

Yep, they used to be pretty common main engines in small workboats and
utility craft, now mostly used for deck engines and gen sets. The
marine engine configuration produces just over 100 hp naturally
aspirated.

Bob

Bob wrote:
Wow, a 3-53 in a boat"? 159 cubic inches!

is this for a gen set? or the main engine?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Tim --

Yep, they used to be pretty common main engines in small workboats and
utility craft, now mostly used for deck engines and gen sets. The
marine engine configuration produces just over 100 hp naturally
aspirated.

Bob

Interesting. I know the old 6-71 "jimmy" was a 426 CID and was rated
at 238 hp in a standard (not marine) configuration. So I'm amazed that
the little 3-53 can obtain 100hp.

On Sun, 19 Aug 2007 20:43:25 -0700, Bob wrote:

I'm looking at a nice little fishing boat/cruiser with a Detroit 353,
only about 1000 hours on it, runs great. I know this is one of the
more reliable diesels ever made, but I have heard some not-so-good
things about the ones that came with aluminum blocks. The boat was
built in 1987, so the engine is at least that old. The owner doesn't
know much about it.

Is there a way to tell which version it is?

Thanks,

Bob

Dunno about Detroit Diesel in particular, but in general I know that an
aluminum block engine will last forever if it's designed right
(i.e. if it's not a Vega engine) and it's maintained right. "Maintained
right" for an Al block engine requires a lot more attention to the
coolant than Fe block engines, which is why so many die early deaths in
automotive applications.

If, as mentioned in another post, they're running salt water through it's
veins you can probably take it as "not designed right".

--
Tim Wescott
Control systems and communications consulting
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Need to learn how to apply control theory in your embedded system?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" by Tim Wescott
Elsevier/Newnes, http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html

Tim Wescott wrote:
Dunno about Detroit Diesel in particular, but in general I know that an
aluminum block engine will last forever if it's designed right
(i.e. if it's not a Vega engine) and it's maintained right. "Maintained
right" for an Al block engine requires a lot more attention to the
coolant than Fe block engines, which is why so many die early deaths in
automotive applications.
The Vega was an aluminum block and cast iron head, a particularly odd
combination. If you allowed it to overheat, even a LITTLE, like stuck in
traffic, it would warp the head. A little hotter and the head would
crack. And, of course, no iron liners, just silicon-aluminum with the
aluminum etched back in the bores.

Jon

Jon Elson wrote:


Tim Wescott wrote:
Dunno about Detroit Diesel in particular, but in general I know that an
aluminum block engine will last forever if it's designed right
(i.e. if it's not a Vega engine) and it's maintained right. "Maintained
right" for an Al block engine requires a lot more attention to the
coolant than Fe block engines, which is why so many die early deaths in
automotive applications.
The Vega was an aluminum block and cast iron head, a particularly odd
combination. If you allowed it to overheat, even a LITTLE, like stuck in
traffic, it would warp the head. A little hotter and the head would
crack. And, of course, no iron liners, just silicon-aluminum with the
aluminum etched back in the bores.

It was, I believe, the cylinder bores that were usually at fault -- they
worked well in theory, but if you got the slightest scuff in the bore
it'd go through the nitriding and then the whole thing would wear out
exceedingly fast.

Any time anyone needs to know the difference between "inexpensive" and
"cheap", just park a Vega next to a VW bug and give them a guided tour.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

Do you need to implement control loops in software?
"Applied Control Theory for Embedded Systems" gives you just what it says.
See details at http://www.wescottdesign.com/actfes/actfes.html

What size is the hull and what material is it made of?

b


"Bob" wrote in message
ups.com...
I'm looking at a nice little fishing boat/cruiser with a Detroit 353,
only about 1000 hours on it, runs great. I know this is one of the
more reliable diesels ever made, but I have heard some not-so-good
things about the ones that came with aluminum blocks. The boat was
built in 1987, so the engine is at least that old. The owner doesn't
know much about it.

Is there a way to tell which version it is?

Thanks,

Bob

On Aug 20, 10:41 am, Bob wrote:

Yep, they used to be pretty common main engines in small workboats and
utility craft, now mostly used for deck engines and gen sets. The
marine engine configuration produces just over 100 hp naturally
aspirated.

Bob-

Bob, by searching around the typical listings on a naturally aspirated
3-53 is about 75 hp. Which I feel is more realistic. I could be
wrong, though.

http://www.usedboats.com/index.php?s...istoryback =1

"Tim" wrote in message
ps.com...
On Aug 20, 10:41 am, Bob wrote:

Yep, they used to be pretty common main engines in small workboats and
utility craft, now mostly used for deck engines and gen sets. The
marine engine configuration produces just over 100 hp naturally
aspirated.

Bob-

Bob, by searching around the typical listings on a naturally aspirated
3-53 is about 75 hp. Which I feel is more realistic. I could be
wrong, though.

http://www.usedboats.com/index.php?s...istoryback =1


http://www.adieselengine.com/new_page_1.htm
shows 101 hp for the 3-53 and 175 for the 3-53T And since it shows a T I
would assume turbocharged. As the 6-71 with a blower was a 6V-71. the same
blower that was used for years on dragsters and driven via a Gilmer belt.

On Mon, 20 Aug 2007 10:00:33 -0700, Tim wrote:

Interesting. I know the old 6-71 "jimmy" was a 426 CID and was rated
at 238 hp in a standard (not marine) configuration. So I'm amazed that
the little 3-53 can obtain 100hp.

The naturally aspirated (non-turbocharged) 6-71 can produce up to 320
hp depending on the injectors used. I have the Johnson & Towers 280
hp version on my trawler.

On Mon, 20 Aug 2007 10:00:33 -0700, Tim wrote:


Bob wrote:
Wow, a 3-53 in a boat"? 159 cubic inches!

is this for a gen set? or the main engine?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Tim --

Yep, they used to be pretty common main engines in small workboats and
utility craft, now mostly used for deck engines and gen sets. The
marine engine configuration produces just over 100 hp naturally
aspirated.

Bob

Interesting. I know the old 6-71 "jimmy" was a 426 CID and was rated
at 238 hp in a standard (not marine) configuration. So I'm amazed that
the little 3-53 can obtain 100hp.

If you have worked around the 71 series and somebody lights off a 53
you'll figure out real quick how they got that horsepower. They were
real screamers for their day.

The only ones I worked on were in 5 ton yard cranes but I believe
there was a turbo option for them also.





Bruce in Bangkok
(brucepaigeATgmailDOTcom)

On Aug 20, 11:03 pm, "Calif Bill" wrote:
"Tim" wrote in message

ps.com...

On Aug 20, 10:41 am, Bob wrote:

Yep, they used to be pretty common main engines in small workboats and
utility craft, now mostly used for deck engines and gen sets. The
marine engine configuration produces just over 100 hp naturally
aspirated.

Bob-

Bob, by searching around the typical listings on a naturally aspirated
3-53 is about 75 hp. Which I feel is more realistic. I could be
wrong, though.

http://www.usedboats.com/index.php?s...om§ion=search&....

http://www.adieselengine.com/new_page_1.htm
shows 101 hp for the 3-53 and 175 for the 3-53T And since it shows a T I
would assume turbocharged. As the 6-71 with a blower was a 6V-71. the same
blower that was used for years on dragsters and driven via a Gilmer belt.

Oh OK, I see they're pushing it up to 2800 rpm, instead of the
customary 2100 max. That might be the clue to the 100 hp.

On Aug 20, 11:09 pm, Wayne.B wrote:
On Mon, 20 Aug 2007 10:00:33 -0700, Tim wrote:
Interesting. I know the old 6-71 "jimmy" was a 426 CID and was rated
at 238 hp in a standard (not marine) configuration. So I'm amazed that
the little 3-53 can obtain 100hp.

The naturally aspirated (non-turbocharged) 6-71 can produce up to 320
hp depending on the injectors used. I have the Johnson & Towers 280
hp version on my trawler.

I didn't realize that Wayne. Thanks!

But then again when I was talking the lower hp ranges, I was
mentioning "standard" version of the engines, too.

Bob,

What size is the hull and of what material is it made?

Thanks


"jusme" wrote in message
...
What size is the hull and what material is it made of?

b


"Bob" wrote in message
ups.com...
I'm looking at a nice little fishing boat/cruiser with a Detroit 353,
only about 1000 hours on it, runs great. I know this is one of the
more reliable diesels ever made, but I have heard some not-so-good
things about the ones that came with aluminum blocks. The boat was
built in 1987, so the engine is at least that old. The owner doesn't
know much about it.

Is there a way to tell which version it is?

Thanks,

Bob

On Aug 21, 11:35 am, "jusme" wrote:
Bob,

What size is the hull and of what material is it made?

Thanks

"jusme" wrote in message

...



What size is the hull and what material is it made of?

b

"Bob" wrote in message
oups.com...
I'm looking at a nice little fishing boat/cruiser with a Detroit 353,
only about 1000 hours on it, runs great. I know this is one of the
more reliable diesels ever made, but I have heard some not-so-good
things about the ones that came with aluminum blocks. The boat was
built in 1987, so the engine is at least that old. The owner doesn't
know much about it.

Is there a way to tell which version it is?

Thanks,

Bob- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's an ex-Coast Guard 27' utility boat. Hull is in excellent
condition, deck was spongy, but deck and house have been
professionally replaced and look nice. It's in running condition, but
needs to have the cabin fitted out and equipment (which is present)
reinstalled. Haven't seen the underwater profile yet, but am assuming
with that power it will run at semi-displacement speeds, which is fine
for me.

Bob

Thanks for the info, Bob.

I had a forty footer, steel-hulled trawler with a 3-53 in it and loved it.
In a trawler, the 3-53 is a great engine.


"Bob" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Aug 21, 11:35 am, "jusme" wrote:
Bob,

What size is the hull and of what material is it made?

Thanks

"jusme" wrote in message

...



What size is the hull and what material is it made of?

b

"Bob" wrote in message
oups.com...
I'm looking at a nice little fishing boat/cruiser with a Detroit 353,
only about 1000 hours on it, runs great. I know this is one of the
more reliable diesels ever made, but I have heard some not-so-good
things about the ones that came with aluminum blocks. The boat was
built in 1987, so the engine is at least that old. The owner doesn't
know much about it.

Is there a way to tell which version it is?

Thanks,

Bob- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It's an ex-Coast Guard 27' utility boat. Hull is in excellent
condition, deck was spongy, but deck and house have been
professionally replaced and look nice. It's in running condition, but
needs to have the cabin fitted out and equipment (which is present)
reinstalled. Haven't seen the underwater profile yet, but am assuming
with that power it will run at semi-displacement speeds, which is fine
for me.

Bob

My 3-53 had an emergency shut-down, which was a spring-loaded damper door
that when tripped, it shut off the air from the 'blower'.


"JohnM" wrote in message
m...
Eisboch wrote:
"JohnM" wrote in message
m...

All two-stroke Detroits have a blower. It's necessary to the operation
of the engine, does the job that crankcase pressure does in a little
two-stroke. On the inline motors it mounts on the side of the block.

John

If a "blower" is defined by you as a turbo (i.e. .., device to increase
air flow into the cylinders), then you are in error. I know several
people with 2 stroke DD 6-71's. Some are naturally aspirated, some have
turbos (blowers).

Eisboch

Find a cutaway picture of a Detroit Diesel, you'll see what the blower
does and you can figure out how. Don't pay no 'tention to turbos, a turbo
isn't a blower. A naturally aspirated Detroit two-stroke has a blower.

John