On Jul 18, 2:17 pm, F. George McDuffee gmcduf...@mcduffee-
associates.us wrote:
On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 16:41:43 -0700, mlcorson

wrote:
I have an older Rockwell/Delta 1" x42" belt grinder and sander. The
1/8" rubber that was on the 3.5" diameter plastic drive wheel has
rotted away leaving only the wheel. I'd like to replace it with
another rubber, but I have been unable to locate a suitable
replacement. A 3" diameter inner tube might work, but what kind of
adhesive should I use? I have some cork and rubber gasket material
that I could cut and place, but it would have a seam. The drive wheel
does not come in contact with the work, so the seam may not matter. I
don't want to botch up the wheel, so I need some advice. TIA
-Mike
St. Louis, Mo

=======
From the "garage of bodge"

As one poster suggested try running with the bare drive wheel.

I tried this and when attempting a "heavy" grind the belt would
slip.

As a quick fix (about 4 years ago) I wound on a layer of black
rubber "insulation tape" (not the cloth or plastic kind). Make
sure to wind in the same direction that the belt will turn so as
to avoid having the belt try to unwrap the tape. Overlap the
tape about 1/2 the width, and you may want to build up the center
to provide additional crown if you are having problems with belt
tracking or the tendency to work to one side or the other off the
pulley.

This worked so well that I now consider this a permanent fix, and
the tape is still slightly soft.

Unka' George [George McDuffee]
============
Merchants have no country.
The mere spot they stand on
does not constitute so strong an attachment
as that from which they draw their gains.

Thomas Jefferson (1743-1826),
U.S. president. Letter, 17 March 1814.

George:
I have some of this tape. I think. There is little or no adhesive on
the tape...correct? I use it for wrapping a split bolt wire splices.
More rubber than tape. Same stuff?

"mlcorson" wrote in message
oups.com...
I have some of this tape. I think. There is little or no adhesive on
the tape...correct? I use it for wrapping a split bolt wire splices.
More rubber than tape. Same stuff?

It's called "self-sealing" or "self-vulcanizing" splicing tape. You should
_always_ have a roll in the shop. It's great for all sorts of friction
functions.

LLoyd

On Thu, 19 Jul 2007 06:34:28 -0700, mlcorson
wrote:

On Jul 18, 2:17 pm, F. George McDuffee gmcduf...@mcduffee-
associates.us wrote:
On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 16:41:43 -0700, mlcorson

wrote:
I have an older Rockwell/Delta 1" x42" belt grinder and sander. The
1/8" rubber that was on the 3.5" diameter plastic drive wheel has
rotted away leaving only the wheel. I'd like to replace it with
another rubber, but I have been unable to locate a suitable
replacement. A 3" diameter inner tube might work, but what kind of
adhesive should I use? I have some cork and rubber gasket material
that I could cut and place, but it would have a seam. The drive wheel
does not come in contact with the work, so the seam may not matter. I
don't want to botch up the wheel, so I need some advice. TIA
-Mike
St. Louis, Mo

=======
From the "garage of bodge"

As one poster suggested try running with the bare drive wheel.

I tried this and when attempting a "heavy" grind the belt would
slip.

As a quick fix (about 4 years ago) I wound on a layer of black
rubber "insulation tape" (not the cloth or plastic kind). Make
sure to wind in the same direction that the belt will turn so as
to avoid having the belt try to unwrap the tape. Overlap the
tape about 1/2 the width, and you may want to build up the center
to provide additional crown if you are having problems with belt
tracking or the tendency to work to one side or the other off the
pulley.

This worked so well that I now consider this a permanent fix, and
the tape is still slightly soft.

Unka' George [George McDuffee]
============
Merchants have no country.
The mere spot they stand on
does not constitute so strong an attachment
as that from which they draw their gains.

Thomas Jefferson (1743-1826),
U.S. president. Letter, 17 March 1814.

George:
I have some of this tape. I think. There is little or no adhesive on
the tape...correct? I use it for wrapping a split bolt wire splices.
More rubber than tape. Same stuff?
============
If it sticks to itself, yes.

When you get enough wrapped on the roller pull the tape apart and
it will stretch and thin when it tears. This will make a flatter
joint and eliminate a possible "thump" with a square cut end.

Good luck and let us know how you make out.

Unka' George [George McDuffee]
============
Merchants have no country.
The mere spot they stand on
does not constitute so strong an attachment
as that from which they draw their gains.

Thomas Jefferson (1743-1826),
U.S. president. Letter, 17 March 1814.

On Thu, 19 Jul 2007 09:45:38 -0400, with neither quill nor qualm,
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" quickly quoth:


"mlcorson" wrote in message
roups.com...
I have some of this tape. I think. There is little or no adhesive on
the tape...correct? I use it for wrapping a split bolt wire splices.
More rubber than tape. Same stuff?

It's called "self-sealing" or "self-vulcanizing" splicing tape. You should
_always_ have a roll in the shop. It's great for all sorts of friction
functions.

Are there any places which sell it for less than $19/roll?
I saw a guy at the Home Improvement Faire a few months ago who was
selling a couple rolls for $25. I was sure I could do better but then
forgot about it. The stuff does look handy.

So, who wholesales it? Oh, and what's the shelf life?
---
In Christianity, neither morality nor religion comes into contact
with reality at any point. --FRIEDRICH NIETZSCHE
-----------------------------------------------------------------

On Jul 19, 9:58 am, F. George McDuffee gmcduf...@mcduffee-
associates.us wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jul 2007 06:34:28 -0700, mlcorson



wrote:
On Jul 18, 2:17 pm, F. George McDuffee gmcduf...@mcduffee-
associates.us wrote:
On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 16:41:43 -0700, mlcorson

wrote:
I have an older Rockwell/Delta 1" x42" belt grinder and sander. The
1/8" rubber that was on the 3.5" diameter plastic drive wheel has
rotted away leaving only the wheel. I'd like to replace it with
another rubber, but I have been unable to locate a suitable
replacement. A 3" diameter inner tube might work, but what kind of
adhesive should I use? I have some cork and rubber gasket material
that I could cut and place, but it would have a seam. The drive wheel
does not come in contact with the work, so the seam may not matter. I
don't want to botch up the wheel, so I need some advice. TIA
-Mike
St. Louis, Mo

=======
From the "garage of bodge"

As one poster suggested try running with the bare drive wheel.

I tried this and when attempting a "heavy" grind the belt would
slip.

As a quick fix (about 4 years ago) I wound on a layer of black
rubber "insulation tape" (not the cloth or plastic kind). Make
sure to wind in the same direction that the belt will turn so as
to avoid having the belt try to unwrap the tape. Overlap the
tape about 1/2 the width, and you may want to build up the center
to provide additional crown if you are having problems with belt
tracking or the tendency to work to one side or the other off the
pulley.

This worked so well that I now consider this a permanent fix, and
the tape is still slightly soft.

Unka' George [George McDuffee]
============
Merchants have no country.
The mere spot they stand on
does not constitute so strong an attachment
as that from which they draw their gains.

Thomas Jefferson (1743-1826),
U.S. president. Letter, 17 March 1814.

George:
I have some of this tape. I think. There is little or no adhesive on
the tape...correct? I use it for wrapping a split bolt wire splices.
More rubber than tape. Same stuff?

============
If it sticks to itself, yes.

When you get enough wrapped on the roller pull the tape apart and
it will stretch and thin when it tears. This will make a flatter
joint and eliminate a possible "thump" with a square cut end.

Good luck and let us know how you make out.

Unka' George [George McDuffee]
============
Merchants have no country.
The mere spot they stand on
does not constitute so strong an attachment
as that from which they draw their gains.

Thomas Jefferson (1743-1826),
U.S. president. Letter, 17 March 1814.

Well, I stripped the old rubber tire off the wheel, and ran a belt
with the drive wheel naked. This seems to work. I will run it like
this until the wheel wears out or slips. When and if this no longer
works, I will try the rubber tape or just make a new drive wheel.
Thanks everyone for your suggestions.
-Mike

On Jul 20, 2:30 am, mlcorson wrote:

Well, I stripped the old rubber tire off the wheel, and ran a belt
with the drive wheel naked. This seems to work. I will run it like
this until the wheel wears out or slips. When and if this no longer
works, I will try the rubber tape or just make a new drive wheel.
Thanks everyone for your suggestions.
-Mike

I also have a Delta 42 inch belt sander. The rubber on both the drive
and idle wheels came off. Keep your eyes open. I found a couple of
plastic wheels of the same size in the dumpster of a auto hobby shop.
I had to make a new shaft so I could use one for the idle wheel. I
think they came off a auto engine and kept tension on a serpntine
belt.

Dan

Good eyes.

Perhaps - skate board wheels would do on some things...

Martin
Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
TSRA, Life; NRA LOH & Endowment Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member.
http://lufkinced.com/


wrote:
On Jul 20, 2:30 am, mlcorson wrote:

Well, I stripped the old rubber tire off the wheel, and ran a belt
with the drive wheel naked. This seems to work. I will run it like
this until the wheel wears out or slips. When and if this no longer
works, I will try the rubber tape or just make a new drive wheel.
Thanks everyone for your suggestions.
-Mike

I also have a Delta 42 inch belt sander. The rubber on both the drive
and idle wheels came off. Keep your eyes open. I found a couple of
plastic wheels of the same size in the dumpster of a auto hobby shop.
I had to make a new shaft so I could use one for the idle wheel. I
think they came off a auto engine and kept tension on a serpntine
belt.

Dan


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On Jul 19, 8:59 pm, " wrote:
On Jul 20, 2:30 am, mlcorson wrote:

Well, I stripped the old rubber tire off the wheel, and ran a belt
with the drive wheel naked. This seems to work. I will run it like
this until the wheel wears out or slips. When and if this no longer
works, I will try the rubber tape or just make a new drive wheel.
Thanks everyone for your suggestions.
-Mike

I also have a Delta 42 inch belt sander. The rubber on both the drive
and idle wheels came off. Keep your eyes open. I found a couple of
plastic wheels of the same size in the dumpster of a auto hobby shop.
I had to make a new shaft so I could use one for the idle wheel. I
think they came off a auto engine and kept tension on a serpntine
belt.

Dan

Dan:
I just got this Rockwell 1970's sander. It has a 3/4hp, 3420 rpm motor
on it. This seems very fast to me. What size is your machine side V
pulley? What rpm is your motor? I went to the Delta/Rockwell website
and found the specs. They call for a 3400+ rpm motor. My machine may
have the wrong size V pulley. Any information is appreciated. Thanks.
_mike

On Jul 20, 4:39 pm, mlcorson wrote:

I just got this Rockwell 1970's sander. It has a 3/4hp, 3420 rpm motor
on it. This seems very fast to me. What size is your machine side V
pulley? What rpm is your motor? I went to the Delta/Rockwell website
and found the specs. They call for a 3400+ rpm motor. My machine may
have the wrong size V pulley. Any information is appreciated. Thanks.
_mike

My motor looks to be the original motor, has a Rockwell id plate on
it. It is 1/2 hp 3450 rpm. The motor has a pulley that is just
slightly bigger than the pulley that drives the belt. OD of the motor
pulley is about 3 inches.

Hope that helps.

Dan

On Jul 20, 1:16 pm, " wrote:
On Jul 20, 4:39 pm, mlcorson wrote:

I just got this Rockwell 1970's sander. It has a 3/4hp, 3420 rpm motor
on it. This seems very fast to me. What size is your machine side V
pulley? What rpm is your motor? I went to the Delta/Rockwell website
and found the specs. They call for a 3400+ rpm motor. My machine may
have the wrong size V pulley. Any information is appreciated. Thanks.
_mike

My motor looks to be the original motor, has a Rockwell id plate on
it. It is 1/2 hp 3450 rpm. The motor has a pulley that is just
slightly bigger than the pulley that drives the belt. OD of the motor
pulley is about 3 inches.

Hope that helps.

Dan

Yes, helps a lot. It matches my machine. I was going to put on a
larger pulley on the machine, but now I won't. Thanks!
-Mike

On Jul 20, 1:16 pm, " wrote:
On Jul 20, 4:39 pm, mlcorson wrote:

I just got this Rockwell 1970's sander. It has a 3/4hp, 3420 rpm motor
on it. This seems very fast to me. What size is your machine side V
pulley? What rpm is your motor? I went to the Delta/Rockwell website
and found the specs. They call for a 3400+ rpm motor. My machine may
have the wrong size V pulley. Any information is appreciated. Thanks.
_mike

My motor looks to be the original motor, has a Rockwell id plate on
it. It is 1/2 hp 3450 rpm. The motor has a pulley that is just
slightly bigger than the pulley that drives the belt. OD of the motor
pulley is about 3 inches.

Hope that helps.

Dan

George and Dan:
I've wrapped the drive wheel with rubber tape (thanks George). Worked
great. I replaced my back idler wheel with a skate board wheel (Thanks
Martin). Everything is working beautifully. However, I still would
like to have some variability in the belt speed.
The grinder is mounted on a vertical tube stand with the motor
attached to the tube below the grinder. The following options seem
practical. I have an variable speed spring loaded pulley that I
removed from one of my folding machines. The spring loaded motor
pulley (was on the motor) seemed to work by increasing/decreasing the
tension on the belt. I'd have to engineer a tensioning device to make
the pulley work in a 3rd position on the belt. Make sense? The other
way is to use 2 cone pulleys, one on the motor and one on the
machine. I'd "hang" the motor on a hinge and use the weight of the
motor to put tension on the belt. That way the motor is simply lifted
to release the belt tension, and change the pulley arrangement.
Downside to any of these approaches? What about a static cone pulley
in a 3rd position? How would I move the cone to align with the belt?
My first observation is that there is very little room for a larger
pulley on the machine side. Maybe room for a 4". Honestly, I don't
know think I have the skills to construct an idler with a shaft and
bearing. I'd have to find something and adapt it my use. What think?
-Mike

replying to mlcorson, Farmer wrote:
1 1/2" schedule 40 PVC pipe for a back idler. Use a layer of gorilla tape on
the bearing to fit tightly inside the pipe. I used a 1" length of pipe.

--
for full context, visit https://www.polytechforum.com/metalw...eel-65400-.htm