I'm trying to attach a 6" scale DRO (a Mitutoyo Digimatic) to my BP clone
Kondia.

Does anyone have a picture of what worked for them or any good advice. I
can think of a couple different ways to do it but I'm sure the ideal
solution has allready been found.

Thanks.

(Philippe Habib) wrote in message ...
I'm trying to attach a 6" scale DRO (a Mitutoyo Digimatic) to my BP clone
Kondia.

Does anyone have a picture of what worked for them or any good advice. I
can think of a couple different ways to do it but I'm sure the ideal
solution has allready been found.

Thanks.

I sent you some pictures of an installation.
If you need any more views, or explanation, just ask.

It sure seems like a good way to do it, desighned by SWI or Bridgeport.

Pete

I would happily send you a pic if it would help but I put mine on my
Smithy 3-in-1 not a BP. The most important thing is to get it
accurately lined up parallel with the axis of the mill.

Ted

"Philippe Habib" wrote in message
news
I'm trying to attach a 6" scale DRO (a Mitutoyo Digimatic) to my BP clone
Kondia.

I've got the 6" Mitutoyo quill DRO on my Kondia variable speed BP clone.
IIRC, the only
thing I had to do that was not in the instructions was to mill a shallow
slot in the back of the
supplied aluminum mounting bar. The slot is for clearance for the sliding
block on the quill feed
mechanism. Only need to be .050" deep or so, or you could shim the mount
block. It binds
if you don't do one or the other.

Bill

I don't have a supplied mounting bar. Just the digimatic. The hard part
for me is how to attach to the round part with the hole in it that goes
up and down. The photo Pete sent me shows a pin that goes into the hole.
I guess I could make a pin that is a very tight fit into that hole and it
would work. The other option is a two part clamp that would grip that
round part.

In any event, thank you to Pete and Ted for the responses.

In article , "Bill Marrs"
wrote:

"Philippe Habib" wrote in message
news
I'm trying to attach a 6" scale DRO (a Mitutoyo Digimatic) to my BP clone
Kondia.

I've got the 6" Mitutoyo quill DRO on my Kondia variable speed BP clone.
IIRC, the only
thing I had to do that was not in the instructions was to mill a shallow
slot in the back of the
supplied aluminum mounting bar. The slot is for clearance for the sliding
block on the quill feed
mechanism. Only need to be .050" deep or so, or you could shim the mount
block. It binds
if you don't do one or the other.

Bill

I don't have a supplied mounting bar. Just the digimatic. The hard part
for me is how to attach to the round part with the hole in it that goes
up and down. The photo Pete sent me shows a pin that goes into the hole.
I guess I could make a pin that is a very tight fit into that hole and it
would work. The other option is a two part clamp that would grip that
round part.

The pin that goes into the hole has a slot milled into for about half it's
length. On the end that goes into the hole, not the end that attaches to
the DRO. There is a setscrew at an angle that spreads the split and expands
the split end inside the hole. E-mail me if you want a good photo of the
arrangement.

Bill Marrs

(Philippe Habib) wrote in message ...
I don't have a supplied mounting bar. Just the digimatic. The hard part
for me is how to attach to the round part with the hole in it that goes
up and down. The photo Pete sent me shows a pin that goes into the hole.
I guess I could make a pin that is a very tight fit into that hole and it
would work. The other option is a two part clamp that would grip that
round part.

In any event, thank you to Pete and Ted for the responses.


The pin IS half of the two part clamp that grips the round part!
I tried to show/and explain that in the second set of pictures.
I'm Not too good with explanations.

It does not have to grip tightly into the hole, it is pulled sideways
by the SHCS to grip the round thing with the mount for the scale
slider.

In other words, the piece that clamps against the round thing
is what attatches to the scale slider.
The round pin that goes into the round thing is pulled
sideways, to clamp the piece against the round thing...

I can send more pictures, or disassemble it if needed.
Once you see how it works, it is _SO_ simple to make...
Easier than any other ideas.

Let me know if you need more pictures.

Pete

I think I get it enough to make something that will work one of two ways.

1. turn a round pin that fits snugly into the hole. cut a slit into the
portion that goes into the hole along the long axis. Have a setscrew at
an angle to the slit that will force the slit open and make a tighter
fit.

2. Turn that same pin and also make something that will fit around the
part that goes up and down with the quill. Draw the two together with a
screw so the pin can't move.

In either case, the moving part of the dro attaches to that pin.

If I still seem like i don't get it, a picture would be great.

Whatever I wind up doing, I'll photograph it and put it in the dropox for
the next guy.

I really appreciate the help and I'd like to do what I can to pass on the
favor to the next guy.

In article ,
(Pete Logghe) wrote:

(Philippe Habib) wrote in message
...
I don't have a supplied mounting bar. Just the digimatic. The hard part
for me is how to attach to the round part with the hole in it that goes
up and down. The photo Pete sent me shows a pin that goes into the hole.
I guess I could make a pin that is a very tight fit into that hole and it
would work. The other option is a two part clamp that would grip that
round part.

In any event, thank you to Pete and Ted for the responses.


The pin IS half of the two part clamp that grips the round part!
I tried to show/and explain that in the second set of pictures.
I'm Not too good with explanations.

It does not have to grip tightly into the hole, it is pulled sideways
by the SHCS to grip the round thing with the mount for the scale
slider.

In other words, the piece that clamps against the round thing
is what attatches to the scale slider.
The round pin that goes into the round thing is pulled
sideways, to clamp the piece against the round thing...

I can send more pictures, or disassemble it if needed.
Once you see how it works, it is _SO_ simple to make...
Easier than any other ideas.

Let me know if you need more pictures.

Pete

(Philippe Habib) wrote in message ...
I think I get it enough to make something that will work one of two ways.

1. turn a round pin that fits snugly into the hole. cut a slit into the
portion that goes into the hole along the long axis. Have a setscrew at
an angle to the slit that will force the slit open and make a tighter
fit.


No.
The pin just fits loosley into the hole in the "round thing" as you
named it.
There is NO need to have a slit in the pin. There is no need to have a
setscrew in the pin.

Gosh, I even took it apart, and took pictures of it. What you can't
see in the pictures does not exist.


2. Turn that same pin and also make something that will fit around the
part that goes up and down with the quill. Draw the two together with a
screw so the pin can't move.


The part that goes up and down with the quill is what you nicnamed the
"round thing" I have been very carefull to consistently refer to it
like that.

The piece that wraps against the "round thing" is just a peice of metal
with a v-notch that approximately matches the "round thing"
We'll call it the V-block.

The V-block is what attatches to the DRO slider.

There is a screw through the V-block to the end of the pin.
The pin will be pulled slightly crooked. That's OK!

The screw through the v-block, into the pin is what draws the
V-block tightly against the "round thing"

The pin just has to Just sort of fit into the "round thing"

The V-block will line up with the "round thing' because it is a
V-block. The Pin is used more like a claw, to grab a handy hole
in the "round thing" and hang on.

You do NOT want to try to use the pin to attatch to the DRO slider.
It is too hard to MAKE IT wnat to be lined up.

Teh V-block will naturally line up.

In either case, the moving part of the dro attaches to that pin.


NO. see above.

If I still seem like i don't get it, a picture would be great.


I took it apart, and took all the pictures I could think of.

Whatever I wind up doing, I'll photograph it and put it in the dropox for
the next guy.


You are welcome to re-format the pictures I took.
I didn't know how many should have been needed, or how much resolution
was appropriate.

I'm not sure what else to take a picture of...

Maybe these words will help to make it clearer.

It's much simpler than your last post describes.

Hope that helps.
Pete

I think I finally got it. Thanks for the patience and the help.

The slit and expansion is how the mount that someone else has is made.

I really appreciate all of the time you spent helping me out.

Contributions like this is what makes this newsgroup so good.

In article ,
(Pete Logghe) wrote:

(Philippe Habib) wrote in message
...
I think I get it enough to make something that will work one of two ways.

1. turn a round pin that fits snugly into the hole. cut a slit into the
portion that goes into the hole along the long axis. Have a setscrew at
an angle to the slit that will force the slit open and make a tighter
fit.


No.
The pin just fits loosley into the hole in the "round thing" as you
named it.
There is NO need to have a slit in the pin. There is no need to have a
setscrew in the pin.

Gosh, I even took it apart, and took pictures of it. What you can't
see in the pictures does not exist.


2. Turn that same pin and also make something that will fit around the
part that goes up and down with the quill. Draw the two together with a
screw so the pin can't move.


The part that goes up and down with the quill is what you nicnamed the
"round thing" I have been very carefull to consistently refer to it
like that.

The piece that wraps against the "round thing" is just a peice of metal
with a v-notch that approximately matches the "round thing"
We'll call it the V-block.

The V-block is what attatches to the DRO slider.

There is a screw through the V-block to the end of the pin.
The pin will be pulled slightly crooked. That's OK!

The screw through the v-block, into the pin is what draws the
V-block tightly against the "round thing"

The pin just has to Just sort of fit into the "round thing"

The V-block will line up with the "round thing' because it is a
V-block. The Pin is used more like a claw, to grab a handy hole
in the "round thing" and hang on.

You do NOT want to try to use the pin to attatch to the DRO slider.
It is too hard to MAKE IT wnat to be lined up.

Teh V-block will naturally line up.

In either case, the moving part of the dro attaches to that pin.


NO. see above.

If I still seem like i don't get it, a picture would be great.


I took it apart, and took all the pictures I could think of.

Whatever I wind up doing, I'll photograph it and put it in the dropox for
the next guy.


You are welcome to re-format the pictures I took.
I didn't know how many should have been needed, or how much resolution
was appropriate.

I'm not sure what else to take a picture of...

Maybe these words will help to make it clearer.

It's much simpler than your last post describes.

Hope that helps.
Pete