![]() |
tramming a mini mill
left right is no brainer but in out or back and forth has got me
stumped.......shims is all i can think of but that can't be right enlighten me please thanks |
tramming a mini mill
I don't know what type of mill you have, but when I had RF round column
mill, I used shims underneath the column. I never did get it right (the thing had a twist in it that no amount of mount tweaking would cure), but I got it better. Regards, Peter "Wet Dog" wrote in message ... left right is no brainer but in out or back and forth has got me stumped.......shims is all i can think of but that can't be right enlighten me please thanks |
tramming a mini mill
"Wet Dog" wrote in message ... left right is no brainer but in out or back and forth has got me stumped.......shims is all i can think of but that can't be right enlighten me please thanks For us Brits, what is tramming? |
tramming a mini mill
In article ,
"John Manders" wrote: "Wet Dog" wrote in message ... left right is no brainer but in out or back and forth has got me stumped.......shims is all i can think of but that can't be right enlighten me please thanks For us Brits, what is tramming? Just Brits? Heck, for us Americans, what is tramming? -- Don Bruder - - New Email policy in effect as of Feb. 21, 2004. I respond to Email as quick as humanly possible. If you Email me and get no response, see http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd/main/contact.html Short form: I'm trashing EVERYTHING that doesn't contain a password in the subject. |
tramming a mini mill
Don Bruder wrote:
In article , "John Manders" wrote: "Wet Dog" wrote in message ... left right is no brainer but in out or back and forth has got me stumped.......shims is all i can think of but that can't be right enlighten me please thanks For us Brits, what is tramming? Just Brits? Heck, for us Americans, what is tramming? The 'art' of adjusting the spindle truly square with the X/Y axis of the table. Ken. -- http://www.rupert.net/~solar Return address supplied by 'spammotel' http://www.spammotel.com |
tramming a mini mill
|
tramming a mini mill
It's the art of adjusting most anything "truly square, or parallel, or
properly spaced, etc" as called for by the application at hand. Tools used to obtain this include surface plates, gage blocks, levels, squares, plumb lines, etc., and today, lasers. The degree of accuray needed to obtain a good 'tram' depends on the application. One use of the word is in setting up a steam locomotive suspension ... getting all the driving axles parallel and spaced the same as the holes in the siderods, and everything centered in the frame so the rods will all line up with the crossheads and cylinder/valve bores, etc. When it's properly 'trammed' everything will work smoothly. Dan Mitchell ========== Ken Davey wrote: Don Bruder wrote: In article , "John Manders" wrote: "Wet Dog" wrote in message ... left right is no brainer but in out or back and forth has got me stumped.......shims is all i can think of but that can't be right enlighten me please thanks For us Brits, what is tramming? Just Brits? Heck, for us Americans, what is tramming? The 'art' of adjusting the spindle truly square with the X/Y axis of the table. Ken. -- http://www.rupert.net/~solar Return address supplied by 'spammotel' http://www.spammotel.com |
tramming a mini mill
"John Manders" wrote in message ... "Wet Dog" wrote in message ... left right is no brainer but in out or back and forth has got me stumped.......shims is all i can think of but that can't be right enlighten me please thanks For us Brits, what is tramming? John, You're question is valid, not only in the UK, but here in the States as well. Tramming, as far as I know, is an archaic term that was applied to the application of a tramming tool to time motion on steam locomotives and other steam engines. How in hell it became the term for truing machinery is a mystery to me. I've worked in the shop (commercially) since 1957 and had never heard the term used. Only when I got online, talking with a huge number of people that run machines for pleasure, did I hear the term used. Everywhere I worked, dialing in, or sweeping, was the term used. I guess it doesn't really matter what terminology is used so long as everyone is on the same page. It appears in this instance that is not the case. Sort of reminds me of how the word " swarf" is being used. If you buy a new machine, if it's CNC and produces a lot of chips, they sell you a chip removal system, not a swarf removal system. A lathe comes with a CHIP pan, not a swarf pan. Swarf, by definition, is fine residue created by abrasion or machining. Grinding machines create swarf, lathes and mills create chips. Harold |
tramming a mini mill
A few years ago, a designer of a special machine was said to have
made the remark during testing that a few 'shims' would correct a minor problem. The VP of that division overheard him and said ".... no shims!" So the designer immediately rephrased and said "Okay, a couple of spacers..." But seriously, what's wrong with using shims? Shim stock is sold in a variety of materials ,thicknesses, and shapes. "Wet Dog" wrote in message ... left right is no brainer but in out or back and forth has got me stumped.......shims is all i can think of but that can't be right enlighten me please thanks -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =----- http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =----- |
tramming a mini mill
Wet Dog wrote in message . ..
left right is no brainer but in out or back and forth has got me stumped.......shims is all i can think of but that can't be right enlighten me please thanks Shims are all you have unless you want to remachine the column mount or base casting, or both. Unless the head is out of parallel with the column, which could very well be also. |
tramming a mini mill
Tramming is done with a co-axial indicator. It is common that many
Bridgeport clone mills are made with a slight tilt where the front of the table is slightly higher than the back. This is done so that when the mill wears in a bit, it will be square. This slight upward tilt will also partially compensate for work loading on the table. In any case, it usually doesn't matter. Steve "Ken Davey" wrote in message ... Don Bruder wrote: In article , "John Manders" wrote: "Wet Dog" wrote in message ... left right is no brainer but in out or back and forth has got me stumped.......shims is all i can think of but that can't be right enlighten me please thanks For us Brits, what is tramming? Just Brits? Heck, for us Americans, what is tramming? The 'art' of adjusting the spindle truly square with the X/Y axis of the table. Ken. -- http://www.rupert.net/~solar Return address supplied by 'spammotel' http://www.spammotel.com |
tramming a mini mill
"Lurker" wrote in message ... A few years ago, a designer of a special machine was said to have made the remark during testing that a few 'shims' would correct a minor problem. The VP of that division overheard him and said ".... no shims!" So the designer immediately rephrased and said "Okay, a couple of spacers..." But seriously, what's wrong with using shims? Shim stock is sold in a variety of materials ,thicknesses, and shapes. The use of shims for machine tools is sort of bush league. One of the problems of shims is if you dismantle the object, there's no guarantee the shim will be replaced, nor that it will be replaced where needed. In machine tools, you pay for precision, which can include scraping or precision grinding. Shims are a dodge to avoid doing so. That's not to say that a shim doesn't work. Of course it does. You just don't have as much control over the end result that you might have by doing it "right". Harold |
tramming a mini mill
|
tramming a mini mill
I generally agree with your statements. The term is somewhat, but not
totally, archaic; and did indeed apply to steam locomotives. It may have originated there, since an early term for railways was 'tram', and THAT usage seems to have originated in Britian. The word 'tram' evolved, becomming a widely used term for electric streetcars, both in Europe and the USA. The word is still often used today as regards underground mining and tunneling railroads. However, it also appears frequently in MANY, especially older, machine operating manuals, machine shop instruction manuals, etc.. These are not at all just those involved in railroad practice. The word may well have 'migrated' from RR shops, among the earlier heavy industries, to more general use. It still appears in such publications today, especially as regards squaring and aligning various machine axes in mills, drill presses, and the like. And, it's still MUCH in use in the steam loco fraternity, both with model locomotives and the preserved full sized ones. Personally, I've encountered the word MANY times in many places, but I will admit that I hang around with 'steam loco folks' a lot! :-) A 'Google' search turned up MANY hits, in various contexts. The word is certainly specialized, but it's FAR from 'dead'. Dan Mitchell ========== Harold & Susan Vordos wrote: "John Manders" wrote in message ... "Wet Dog" wrote in message ... left right is no brainer but in out or back and forth has got me stumped.......shims is all i can think of but that can't be right enlighten me please thanks For us Brits, what is tramming? John, You're question is valid, not only in the UK, but here in the States as well. Tramming, as far as I know, is an archaic term that was applied to the application of a tramming tool to time motion on steam locomotives and other steam engines. How in hell it became the term for truing machinery is a mystery to me. I've worked in the shop (commercially) since 1957 and had never heard the term used. Only when I got online, talking with a huge number of people that run machines for pleasure, did I hear the term used. Everywhere I worked, dialing in, or sweeping, was the term used. I guess it doesn't really matter what terminology is used so long as everyone is on the same page. It appears in this instance that is not the case. Sort of reminds me of how the word " swarf" is being used. If you buy a new machine, if it's CNC and produces a lot of chips, they sell you a chip removal system, not a swarf removal system. A lathe comes with a CHIP pan, not a swarf pan. Swarf, by definition, is fine residue created by abrasion or machining. Grinding machines create swarf, lathes and mills create chips. Harold |
tramming a mini mill
Harold & Susan Vordos writes:
Swarf, by definition, is fine residue created by abrasion or machining. Grinding machines create swarf, lathes and mills create chips. But it sounds so cool to say, "swarf". And the strings, corkscrews, and needles are not properly "chips". |
tramming a mini mill
Harold & Susan Vordos wrote:
Swarf, by definition, is fine residue created by abrasion or machining. Grinding machines create swarf, lathes and mills About a thousand years ago, when I used to cut records, the acetate gouged out by the stylus in the record lathe was refered to as "swarf". The vacuum system and jar that sucked up the cuttings was the "swarf collector". The other night I had to explain to my daughter what a "45" was. Damn I'm old. Kevin "Red Label" Gallimore -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =----- http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =----- |
tramming a mini mill
In article , Harold & Susan Vordos says...
The use of shims for machine tools is sort of bush league. One of the problems of shims is if you dismantle the object, there's no guarantee the shim will be replaced, nor that it will be replaced where needed. In machine tools, you pay for precision, which can include scraping or precision grinding. Shims are a dodge to avoid doing so. That's not to say that a shim doesn't work. Of course it does. You just don't have as much control over the end result that you might have by doing it "right". It's more than just 'not right.' In this case the issue is an angular mis-alignment of the column with respect to the table. Placing a shim under *one* side of the column base means that the contact area between the two parts has been drastically reduced. That's the whole idea with fitting parts by hand-scraping, to obtain large, uniform contact areas to enhance stability and rigidity. And yes, I've personally seen asian mill-drills with just such shims installed - right from the factory! The interesting thing was, they were made of copper, and taped in place under the column!! How's that for stability? Jim ================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================== |
tramming a mini mill
In article , Harold & Susan Vordos says...
Sort of reminds me of how the word " swarf" is being used. That term has a great deal of varied use, depending on where one is from. The instructor at the voc-tech school used it all the time to describe machined chips. He was from the UK and I think that was standard use there. It is also a general term for any particulate by-product, for example the fine debris that results from flint arrowhead manufacture is indeed described as 'swarf.' Jim ================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ================================================== |
tramming a mini mill
"Harold & Susan Vordos" wrote in message ...
"Lurker" wrote in message ... A few years ago, a designer of a special machine was said to have made the remark during testing that a few 'shims' would correct a minor problem. The VP of that division overheard him and said ".... no shims!" So the designer immediately rephrased and said "Okay, a couple of spacers..." But seriously, what's wrong with using shims? Shim stock is sold in a variety of materials ,thicknesses, and shapes. The use of shims for machine tools is sort of bush league. One of the problems of shims is if you dismantle the object, there's no guarantee the shim will be replaced, nor that it will be replaced where needed. In machine tools, you pay for precision, which can include scraping or precision grinding. Shims are a dodge to avoid doing so. That's not to say that a shim doesn't work. Of course it does. You just don't have as much control over the end result that you might have by doing it "right". I'll add a little here, Harold. With the particular mill in question, the column tilts for angle milling, and there's no guarantee that the shim will be correct for any other position other than with the column square to the table. I just bought one similar but smaller, but haven't had time to lay the base and column out to see if there's a problem there, or where the head mounts to the column dovetails. I have to say, I'm impressed that such a small machine has an R-8 spindle taper, and it seems to be quite rigid for it's size. For something like model building, and with it's $279 price, it seems to be a pretty good value at first glance. Time will tell the full story. |
tramming a mini mill
Ok - I'll bite - can you describe the method -
Martin Steve Lusardi wrote: Tramming is done with a co-axial indicator. It is common that many Bridgeport clone mills are made with a slight tilt where the front of the table is slightly higher than the back. This is done so that when the mill wears in a bit, it will be square. This slight upward tilt will also partially compensate for work loading on the table. In any case, it usually doesn't matter. Steve "Ken Davey" wrote in message ... Don Bruder wrote: In article , "John Manders" wrote: "Wet Dog" wrote in message m... left right is no brainer but in out or back and forth has got me stumped.......shims is all i can think of but that can't be right enlighten me please thanks For us Brits, what is tramming? Just Brits? Heck, for us Americans, what is tramming? The 'art' of adjusting the spindle truly square with the X/Y axis of the table. Ken. -- http://www.rupert.net/~solar Return address supplied by 'spammotel' http://www.spammotel.com -- Martin Eastburn, Barbara Eastburn @ home at Lion's Lair with our computer NRA LOH, NRA Life NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder |
tramming a mini mill
axolotl wrote:
Harold & Susan Vordos wrote: Swarf, by definition, is fine residue created by abrasion or machining. Grinding machines create swarf, lathes and mills About a thousand years ago, when I used to cut records, the acetate gouged out by the stylus in the record lathe was refered to as "swarf". The vacuum system and jar that sucked up the cuttings was the "swarf collector". The other night I had to explain to my daughter what a "45" was. Damn I'm old. Kevin "Red Label" Gallimore -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =----- http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =----- Trick question, Old Kevin? How many grooves are on a 45? Richard |
tramming a mini mill
"Lennie the Lurker" wrote in message om... "Harold & Susan Vordos" wrote in message ... "Lurker" wrote in message ... A few years ago, a designer of a special machine was said to have made the remark during testing that a few 'shims' would correct a minor problem. The VP of that division overheard him and said ".... no shims!" So the designer immediately rephrased and said "Okay, a couple of spacers..." But seriously, what's wrong with using shims? Shim stock is sold in a variety of materials ,thicknesses, and shapes. The use of shims for machine tools is sort of bush league. One of the problems of shims is if you dismantle the object, there's no guarantee the shim will be replaced, nor that it will be replaced where needed. In machine tools, you pay for precision, which can include scraping or precision grinding. Shims are a dodge to avoid doing so. That's not to say that a shim doesn't work. Of course it does. You just don't have as much control over the end result that you might have by doing it "right". I'll add a little here, Harold. With the particular mill in question, the column tilts for angle milling, and there's no guarantee that the shim will be correct for any other position other than with the column square to the table. Excellent point! The bottom line is there's no substitute for making and assembling parts properly. It is almost a given, if you start out wrong, every time you turn your attention to fixing one problem, it tends to make another one worse. I just bought one similar but smaller, but haven't had time to lay the base and column out to see if there's a problem there, or where the head mounts to the column dovetails. I have to say, I'm impressed that such a small machine has an R-8 spindle taper, and it seems to be quite rigid for it's size. For something like model building, and with it's $279 price, it seems to be a pretty good value at first glance. Time will tell the full story. It would have to be a pretty bad story to not be worth the price. What type machine are you talking about? Harold |
tramming a mini mill
Richard Lamb wrote in message ... Trick question, Old Kevin? How many grooves are on a 45? Richard That depends. Is it a new 45, or one that has been played, over and over, on a portable record player with a five pound stylus, at one of my brother's "twist til you puke" parties? Paul K. Dickman |
tramming a mini mill
"Harold & Susan Vordos" wrote in message ...
It would have to be a pretty bad story to not be worth the price. What type machine are you talking about? Harold THis one http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=47158 I'd like to see the rack on the column a little longer, but at the price, I can't complain if it works at all. I've taken one cut with it on a piece of scrap, and it seems to be pretty solid for small cutters and small work. MY guess is that with the variable speed, a 1/2" endmill and a light cut are about where you're going to run out of power in steel. Aluminum or brass, possibly a bit more. One other item I've picked up and found useful, MicroMark sells a tool post grinder for the 7 X mini lathes for $100. Replaces the compound slide, so no taper grinding, and has the base machined so you can't swivel it on the compound. Took five minutes in the surface grinder to remove the step on the base, still won't grind tapers, but it works well. Taking off the step lets the belt guard clear the tailstock, wheel ends up dressed with an angle, but that's of no consequence. Not something if you're in a hurry, but for my use, it works well. |
tramming a mini mill
"Lennie the Lurker" wrote in message om... "Harold & Susan Vordos" wrote in message ... It would have to be a pretty bad story to not be worth the price. What type machine are you talking about? Harold THis one http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=47158 I'd like to see the rack on the column a little longer, but at the price, I can't complain if it works at all. I've taken one cut with it on a piece of scrap, and it seems to be pretty solid for small cutters and small work. MY guess is that with the variable speed, a 1/2" endmill and a light cut are about where you're going to run out of power in steel. Aluminum or brass, possibly a bit more. One other item I've picked up and found useful, MicroMark sells a tool post grinder for the 7 X mini lathes for $100. Replaces the compound slide, so no taper grinding, and has the base machined so you can't swivel it on the compound. Took five minutes in the surface grinder to remove the step on the base, still won't grind tapers, but it works well. Taking off the step lets the belt guard clear the tailstock, wheel ends up dressed with an angle, but that's of no consequence. Not something if you're in a hurry, but for my use, it works well. Hey, not a bad looking machine for the bucks. Mind you, I'm not a fan of round column machines, but at that price, it lets the guy in that otherwise may not have a shot at a small machine. I can see where a hobbyist that has limited funds could be well served by that little sucker! Just don't expect the performance of a Gorton from it. Harold |
tramming a mini mill
Richard Lamb wrote:
Trick question, Old Kevin? How many grooves are on a 45? Not sure what the trick is- one per side just like an LP. If you mean what is the pitch, it varies. The leadscrew servo speed is controlled by the signal from the preview head on the tape deck- if the music is louder, the deviation is greater and the groove pitch is wider. Kevin Gallimore -----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =----- http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! -----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =----- |
tramming a mini mill
"Harold & Susan Vordos" wrote in message ...
Hey, not a bad looking machine for the bucks. Mind you, I'm not a fan of round column machines, but at that price, it lets the guy in that otherwise may not have a shot at a small machine. I can see where a hobbyist that has limited funds could be well served by that little sucker! Just don't expect the performance of a Gorton from it. Harold OOOOOPS! my mistake, or their catalog is screwed up. The price is right but the mill looks like: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44991 Either it was on sale, or they goofed and gave me the next one bigger, either way, I won't say anything. They're both dovetail columns, but I'm pretty sure I'll find something out of square that will have to be taken care of. Not sure how I'll square it up yet, probably either grind or scrape it square. It looks more rigid than it really is, the column has one nut on about a 1" stud to hold it, but all I want it for is small stuff anyhow. Kinda interesting, on a bench 30" by 5 feet, one could have a pretty good small machining facility, with the small mill, one of the 7 X 12 lathes and a small drill press and bench grinder. And for less than $1000 to boot. THinking about it, it might have been mislabeled right from the factory, but I'm still not going to cry. |
tramming a mini mill
"Lennie the Lurker" wrote in message om... "Harold & Susan Vordos" wrote in message ... Hey, not a bad looking machine for the bucks. Mind you, I'm not a fan of round column machines, but at that price, it lets the guy in that otherwise may not have a shot at a small machine. I can see where a hobbyist that has limited funds could be well served by that little sucker! Just don't expect the performance of a Gorton from it. Harold OOOOOPS! my mistake, or their catalog is screwed up. The price is right but the mill looks like: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44991 Either it was on sale, or they goofed and gave me the next one bigger, either way, I won't say anything. They're both dovetail columns, but I'm pretty sure I'll find something out of square that will have to be taken care of. Not sure how I'll square it up yet, probably either grind or scrape it square. It looks more rigid than it really is, the column has one nut on about a 1" stud to hold it, but all I want it for is small stuff anyhow. Kinda interesting, on a bench 30" by 5 feet, one could have a pretty good small machining facility, with the small mill, one of the 7 X 12 lathes and a small drill press and bench grinder. And for less than $1000 to boot. THinking about it, it might have been mislabeled right from the factory, but I'm still not going to cry. Yep, I can see by the new link that they are dovetailed columns. The first link, at a glance, was easy to miss. A friend, years ago, bought a little tabletop CNC mill that was built much like these little guys are. I'm thinking they're leaps and bounds ahead of the round column machines. If you got the larger model for the price you said, you'd have been nuts to turn it down. I think both of us know the difficulty of doing small work on large machines. The setup you described could make a hobbyist doing small work quite pleased. I'd be interested in hearing what you have to go through to get yours up and running properly. Harold |
tramming a mini mill
Hey Harold--
I purchased the same machine the 15th of this month. after about 6 hours the muffin fan on the power supply conked out. Called Harbor Freight and instead of just sending the fan they are sending the whole power supply assy. In the meantime I purchased a small $6.98 fan and tied it to the power supply with the cover removed so could still use the mill until the power supply arrives. Otherwise no gripes yet. Been using router bits on wood and yesterday I received the end mills and other hardware that I had ordered from grizzley. So now can try it out on metal. "Harold & Susan Vordos" wrote in message ... "Lennie the Lurker" wrote in message om... "Harold & Susan Vordos" wrote in message ... Hey, not a bad looking machine for the bucks. Mind you, I'm not a fan of round column machines, but at that price, it lets the guy in that otherwise may not have a shot at a small machine. I can see where a hobbyist that has limited funds could be well served by that little sucker! Just don't expect the performance of a Gorton from it. Harold OOOOOPS! my mistake, or their catalog is screwed up. The price is right but the mill looks like: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44991 Either it was on sale, or they goofed and gave me the next one bigger, either way, I won't say anything. They're both dovetail columns, but I'm pretty sure I'll find something out of square that will have to be taken care of. Not sure how I'll square it up yet, probably either grind or scrape it square. It looks more rigid than it really is, the column has one nut on about a 1" stud to hold it, but all I want it for is small stuff anyhow. Kinda interesting, on a bench 30" by 5 feet, one could have a pretty good small machining facility, with the small mill, one of the 7 X 12 lathes and a small drill press and bench grinder. And for less than $1000 to boot. THinking about it, it might have been mislabeled right from the factory, but I'm still not going to cry. Yep, I can see by the new link that they are dovetailed columns. The first link, at a glance, was easy to miss. A friend, years ago, bought a little tabletop CNC mill that was built much like these little guys are. I'm thinking they're leaps and bounds ahead of the round column machines. If you got the larger model for the price you said, you'd have been nuts to turn it down. I think both of us know the difficulty of doing small work on large machines. The setup you described could make a hobbyist doing small work quite pleased. I'd be interested in hearing what you have to go through to get yours up and running properly. Harold |
tramming a mini mill
"Roger" wrote in message news:Tu9ic.11951$c%3.8782@okepread02... Hey Harold-- I purchased the same machine the 15th of this month. after about 6 hours the muffin fan on the power supply conked out. Called Harbor Freight and instead of just sending the fan they are sending the whole power supply assy. In the meantime I purchased a small $6.98 fan and tied it to the power supply with the cover removed so could still use the mill until the power supply arrives. Otherwise no gripes yet. Been using router bits on wood and yesterday I received the end mills and other hardware that I had ordered from grizzley. So now can try it out on metal. Cool! I'll be interested in hearing how well it handles metals, too. A comment on HF. Lots of guys tend to bad mouth the place, and many refuse to go there. While I'm far from enamored with the bulk of their products, I've found that they fill a very important role in my life. Example. I purchased a set of combination wrenches from 1-1/2" up to 2" in size. Cost a whole $20. They appear to be well heat treated and chrome plated, and have already bailed me out one time when I needed a larger sized wrench that I otherwise would not have possessed. At this point I consider they were free. I couldn't have purchased the size needed for that amount, not even from Sears. One trip to the store in Portland, OR, I found 50 pound boxes of glass bead for blasting, surplus American made stuff, for only $20/box. Roughly half retail, with no shipping fee or sales tax. I strongly suggest guys check the place. They have many products that, while often inferior in quality and performance, work well enough to get you through in a pinch, that one time you need a given tool and will never use it again, and the price as compared to Made in USA is often but a small fraction. Americans have effectively killed their place in the manufacturing world by outlandish demands in wages and benefits, so we might just as well benefit by the results when we can. My motto is, when appropriate, buy Chinese. The key word is "when appropriate". You'll notice my Gerstner is filled with Starrett. Harold |
All times are GMT +1. The time now is 11:23 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 DIYbanter