Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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Andrew Tubbiolo
 
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Default Hardware and oil.

Hey All:

I'm in the reassembly stage of my lathe (Atlas HL-54) restoration.
I went to purchase some bolts for my rear babbit and took the front
hardware to use as a reference. The front bolts have a rating of 1035
stamped on top. The closest I could find was a ABP
F593C

Anybody know what this rating means? The label seemed to indicate a rating
of 9.9 non ferris steel. Does the rating 1035 mean a rating of 10?

Also what kind of oil does a babbit bearing want to see?

-- Andrew

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J.R. Williams
 
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Default Hardware and oil.

Andrew Tubbiolo wrote in message ...
Hey All:

I'm in the reassembly stage of my lathe (Atlas HL-54) restoration.
I went to purchase some bolts for my rear babbit and took the front
hardware to use as a reference. The front bolts have a rating of 1035
stamped on top. The closest I could find was a ABP
F593C

Anybody know what this rating means? The label seemed to indicate a rating
of 9.9 non ferris steel. Does the rating 1035 mean a rating of 10?

Also what kind of oil does a babbit bearing want to see?

-- Andrew


Andrew

Most of the markings on the common hardware store bolts are "Price
Codes" . Check the store and see how they determing the price.

JRW
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Jon Elson
 
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Default Hardware and oil.



Andrew Tubbiolo wrote:
Hey All:

I'm in the reassembly stage of my lathe (Atlas HL-54) restoration.
I went to purchase some bolts for my rear babbit and took the front
hardware to use as a reference. The front bolts have a rating of 1035
stamped on top. The closest I could find was a ABP
F593C

Anybody know what this rating means? The label seemed to indicate a rating
of 9.9 non ferris steel. Does the rating 1035 mean a rating of 10?

These bolts are not under high stress at all. Any bolt should do.

Also what kind of oil does a babbit bearing want to see?

Atlas recommends SAE 10 non-detergent. That's what I used in mine.
If the oil flows out too quickly (usually means your bearings are
badly worn or you need wicks in the oil cups) you can try SAE 20.

But, worn babbit bearings are a royal pain, so you either want to
repour the babbit or replace the headstock with a Timken bearing one.

Jon

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Stan Schaefer
 
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Default Hardware and oil.

Andrew Tubbiolo wrote in message ...
Hey All:

I'm in the reassembly stage of my lathe (Atlas HL-54) restoration.
I went to purchase some bolts for my rear babbit and took the front
hardware to use as a reference. The front bolts have a rating of 1035
stamped on top. The closest I could find was a ABP
F593C

Anybody know what this rating means? The label seemed to indicate a rating
of 9.9 non ferris steel. Does the rating 1035 mean a rating of 10?

Also what kind of oil does a babbit bearing want to see?

-- Andrew


I've never seen numbers stamped on bolt heads on SAE hardware having
anything to do with ratings, they've usually got raised dash marks at
the hex points, the more dashes, the higher the bolt grade. Probably
grade 5 would be more than adequate for your usage. What's "non
ferris" steel? Something not to be used on carnival rides?

Non-detergent oil is usually recommended if you've got an oil sump.
Spindle oil can be had from the usual industrial suppliers, MSC is one
such or you can use non-detergent SAE 20 or 30 car oil, if you can
find some. You might want to get an Atlas manual, if you can find one
and don't have one already. It should have lubricating instructions
in it.

Stan
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Andrew Tubbiolo
 
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Default Hardware and oil.

Stan Schaefer wrote:

grade 5 would be more than adequate for your usage. What's "non
ferris" steel? Something not to be used on carnival rides?


Well, sometimes my logic goes in circles!
--
Andrew



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Andrew Tubbiolo
 
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Default Hardware and oil.

Jon Elson wrote:

Atlas recommends SAE 10 non-detergent. That's what I used in mine.
If the oil flows out too quickly (usually means your bearings are
badly worn or you need wicks in the oil cups) you can try SAE 20.


Great, thanks!

But, worn babbit bearings are a royal pain, so you either want to
repour the babbit or replace the headstock with a Timken bearing one.


Which leads to another question, any word on a recommended torque to
apply to the babbit bolts? Or perhaps more qualitative, do I want to tighten
them until I can, or cannot turn the spindle by hand? In this case using the
top of the chuck or the gears to gain some moment.
--
Andrew

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