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fire proofing shop
I have built a two story 30' x 40' stick framed shop. The main floor
is separated into two sections, one which I plan to insulate, houses my machine tools, the other I use for welding, car repair etc. Niether area is panelled yet and I tying to decide how I should go about it. My current idea for the welding area is to cover the lower 48" with cement board ($30 for a 4 X 8 sheet) and the remainder with Aspenite covered in flame retardent paint ($11 for a 4 x 8 sheet). I do not want to use drywall because I do not want to tape it and it will get all bashed up. Does anyone have an opinion on the flame retardent paint? stan |
fire proofing shop
wrote in message oups.com... I have built a two story 30' x 40' stick framed shop. The main floor is separated into two sections, one which I plan to insulate, houses my machine tools, the other I use for welding, car repair etc. Niether area is panelled yet and I tying to decide how I should go about it. My current idea for the welding area is to cover the lower 48" with cement board ($30 for a 4 X 8 sheet) and the remainder with Aspenite covered in flame retardent paint ($11 for a 4 x 8 sheet). I do not want to use drywall because I do not want to tape it and it will get all bashed up. Does anyone have an opinion on the flame retardent paint? So called "intumescent paints" protect fairly well, but not for protracted exposure. They have a 'bubbling' agent (usually sodium silicate/metasilicate) that forms a bubbly foam layer on the surface when heat is applied. Because the silicate bubbles are in large percentage glass, they protect by forming a layer of heat-resistant insulation when fire hits the painted object. They aren't a silver bullet, but can greatly lengthen the exposure time before a wooden member becomes fully involved in the fire. If the manufacturer doesn't list the coating as being of the intumescent variety, I wouldn't trust its ability to resist flame for very long. LLoyd |
fire proofing shop
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fire proofing shop
Use 5/8" type X drywall and top it with FRP paneling. Don't bother to tape the drywall and offset the seams of the FRP from the drywall seams. All fire rated, durable and fully washable as well. Pete C. In my jurisdiction type X rock needs to be taped to meet code and presumably to keep the fire away from the studs. I would rock with at least one layer of 5/8" X D/W,fire tape the whole wall, finish tape from 4'AFF to the ceiling and run 1/4" tempered masonite along the wall sideways for impact protection. FRP or glass board would be nice but costs about $24.00 for a 4X8 sheet, ouch! There is another plastic type panel available, I think its vinyl, at about $8 a sheet. I'm going to investigate that to protect the walls in my bluing room. -- Tom Wait Barton Rifle Shop 1805 Barton Ave Suite #9 West Bend, Wisconsin 53090 (262) 306-RIFL (7435) |
fire proofing shop
Tom Wait wrote:
Use 5/8" type X drywall and top it with FRP paneling. Don't bother to tape the drywall and offset the seams of the FRP from the drywall seams. All fire rated, durable and fully washable as well. Pete C. In my jurisdiction type X rock needs to be taped to meet code and presumably to keep the fire away from the studs. I would rock with at least one layer of 5/8" X D/W,fire tape the whole wall, finish tape from 4'AFF to the ceiling and run 1/4" tempered masonite along the wall sideways for impact protection. FRP or glass board would be nice but costs about $24.00 for a 4X8 sheet, ouch! There is another plastic type panel available, I think its vinyl, at about $8 a sheet. I'm going to investigate that to protect the walls in my bluing room. -- Tom Wait Barton Rifle Shop 1805 Barton Ave Suite #9 West Bend, Wisconsin 53090 (262) 306-RIFL (7435) Yes, the FRP is rather expensive. In one place I know of they did the 4' high guard section in a high abuse area with 1/8" AL diamond plate. Pretty darned expensive, but holds up well to palette jack abuse. Pete C. |
fire proofing shop
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fire proofing shop
What Bruce said except use 5/8" rather than 1/2" only costs about $.08 a
square foot more, gives the code level fire protection you want. A 30' x 8' wall in fire code rated rock is only an extra $20 Bruce L. Bergman wrote: On 11 May 2006 11:13:15 -0700, wrote: I have built a two story 30' x 40' stick framed shop. The main floor is separated into two sections, one which I plan to insulate, houses my machine tools, the other I use for welding, car repair etc. Niether area is panelled yet and I tying to decide how I should go about it. My current idea for the welding area is to cover the lower 48" with cement board ($30 for a 4 X 8 sheet) and the remainder with Aspenite covered in flame retardent paint ($11 for a 4 x 8 sheet). I do not want to use drywall because I do not want to tape it and it will get all bashed up. Does anyone have an opinion on the flame retardent paint? If you want true fireproofing, there's nothing better than good old gypsum drywall. Use 5/8" installed properly, with fire rated doors and closers and no unprotected penetrations, gets you a two hour rated firewall. Unless you are WAY out in the sticks, the Fire Department can get there before it spreads. Rather than spend a lot of money on the cement board I'd drywall the entire room in plain 1/2", tape the joints - it doesn't have to be three coats all sanded down and pretty, but I would still mud over the screws and one coat over the joints, a fast sand to knock the high spots down, and now you are fireproof. Hit it with one heavy coat of PVA Drywall Primer/Sealer so any liquids that make it through don't soak in and stain or wreck the drywall. And then for armor against abuse panel over the top of the drywall walls with 1/4" or better plywood or hardboard. Screw it to the studs like the drywall, finish the corners with simple pine molding, and coat with the fire retardant paint to keep little sparks from sticking. And if you manage to dent it, you change a sheet. And if anyone ever decides to build a new bigger shop and turn the old shop into a guest house, it's mostly done. Just strip the plywood, patch the nail holes, and give the joints a second coat. Or fill the big divots and hit it with the spray texture gun, the spatter texture hides a lot of little sins. -- Bruce -- |
fire proofing shop
As others have said, use drywall. If you don't know how or don't
want to tape, hire it done or use fire tape: http://www.eztapingsystem.com/fire_tape.htm You can install a layer of wafer board under the drywall. This will provide an abuse resistant wall which will allow you to fasten screws, cabinets, tool racks, etc anywhere you want. Cement board (Durock, Wonder Board) will not give you a very useable wall surface and would require taping or sealing to protect the studs in a fire. I'm not sure what aspenite is. I wouldn't spend the money on intumescent paint. How are you protecting the second floor? Fires go up long before they go sideways. ______________________________ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) wrote in message oups.com... I have built a two story 30' x 40' stick framed shop. The main floor is separated into two sections, one which I plan to insulate, houses my machine tools, the other I use for welding, car repair etc. Niether area is panelled yet and I tying to decide how I should go about it. My current idea for the welding area is to cover the lower 48" with cement board ($30 for a 4 X 8 sheet) and the remainder with Aspenite covered in flame retardent paint ($11 for a 4 x 8 sheet). I do not want to use drywall because I do not want to tape it and it will get all bashed up. Does anyone have an opinion on the flame retardent paint? stan |
fire proofing shop
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fire proofing shop
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fire proofing shop
Hi Pete
Thanks for the response, what is FRP paneling? stan |
fire proofing shop
Hi Bruce
Upon reflection I think you are right. I hate the idea of all the plaster dust around my machines, but I will just have to tarp everything up. Part of my problem is that I haven't gotten the framing or electrical inspections done yet. What I should really do is do the work required to pass the inspections first (get engineering drawings stamped for the gambrel roof framing, make the stairs to the top floor etc.) stan |
fire proofing shop
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fire proofing shop
Anthony wrote:
Make sure to put down some industrial rubber baseboard, and silicon the crack to the floor. Ouch, my ass hurts just thinking about that! g Joe |
fire proofing shop
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fire proofing shop
Pete C might have it - but there are drywalls that are used as firewalls between
shops (garages) and the house, and behind wood stoves... It isn't cement wall - but it is a fire rated wall. Talk to the local lumber yard and see what they have. Martin Martin Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH & Endowment Member NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member Pete C. wrote: wrote: I have built a two story 30' x 40' stick framed shop. The main floor is separated into two sections, one which I plan to insulate, houses my machine tools, the other I use for welding, car repair etc. Niether area is panelled yet and I tying to decide how I should go about it. My current idea for the welding area is to cover the lower 48" with cement board ($30 for a 4 X 8 sheet) and the remainder with Aspenite covered in flame retardent paint ($11 for a 4 x 8 sheet). I do not want to use drywall because I do not want to tape it and it will get all bashed up. Does anyone have an opinion on the flame retardent paint? stan Use 5/8" type X drywall and top it with FRP paneling. Don't bother to tape the drywall and offset the seams of the FRP from the drywall seams. All fire rated, durable and fully washable as well. Pete C. ----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==---- http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---- |
fire proofing shop
"Stuart Wheaton" wrote in message ... wrote: My current idea for the welding area is to cover the lower 48" with cement board ($30 for a 4 X 8 sheet) and the remainder with Aspenite covered in flame retardent paint ($11 for a 4 x 8 sheet). I do not want to use drywall because I do not want to tape it and it will get all bashed up. Does anyone have an opinion on the flame retardent paint? I recently got accused of not being able to read, because I deliberately ignored part of a request, and gave my own answer. But did everyone miss the question here? He didn't ask if we had suggestions about how to flame-proof his shop, he asked, "Does anyone have an opinion on the flame retardent paint?" Does anyone have experience with it? I gave him a tech overview of the product, but I've only ever used it once. LLoyd |
fire proofing shop
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:
"Stuart Wheaton" wrote in message ... wrote: My current idea for the welding area is to cover the lower 48" with cement board ($30 for a 4 X 8 sheet) and the remainder with Aspenite covered in flame retardent paint ($11 for a 4 x 8 sheet). I do not want to use drywall because I do not want to tape it and it will get all bashed up. Does anyone have an opinion on the flame retardent paint? I recently got accused of not being able to read, because I deliberately ignored part of a request, and gave my own answer. I'll accuse you of it again, But did everyone miss the question here? He didn't ask if we had suggestions about how to flame-proof his shop, he asked, "Does anyone have an opinion on the flame retardent paint?" I did give him exactly that and you chose to CUT that part of my answer. Does anyone have experience with it? I gave him a tech overview of the product, but I've only ever used it once. I gave him a review and a link to a supplier, we use it every day, But you cut that too. Sure I gave him a few other ideas to think of, but I did answer his question, so why were you quoting my post? Stuart |
fire proofing shop
Thanks for the link, I will see if this is available in Canada.
stan |
fire proofing shop
Hi
Any information related to the topic is useful as far as I am concerned. stan |
fire proofing shop
wrote in message ups.com... Hi Bruce Upon reflection I think you are right. I hate the idea of all the plaster dust around my machines, but I will just have to tarp everything up. Part of my problem is that I haven't gotten the framing or electrical inspections done yet. What I should really do is do the work required to pass the inspections first (get engineering drawings stamped for the gambrel roof framing, make the stairs to the top floor etc.) stan Dust from cutting cement (wonderboard) type panels would be even worse. |
fire proofing shop
wrote in message oups.com... I have built a two story 30' x 40' stick framed shop. The main floor is separated into two sections, one which I plan to insulate, houses my machine tools, the other I use for welding, car repair etc. Niether area is panelled yet and I tying to decide how I should go about it. My current idea for the welding area is to cover the lower 48" with cement board ($30 for a 4 X 8 sheet) and the remainder with Aspenite covered in flame retardent paint ($11 for a 4 x 8 sheet). I do not want to use drywall because I do not want to tape it and it will get all bashed up. Does anyone have an opinion on the flame retardent paint? stan We had to coat some columns with a fire retardant paint about four years ago. Got the stuff from Sherwin-Williams, it was a special order and not cheap. Very heavy bodied paint, rather difficult to work with even for an experienced painter. |
fire proofing shop
On Sat, 13 May 2006 22:20:38 -0400, "ATP*"
wrote: wrote in message oups.com... Hi Bruce Upon reflection I think you are right. I hate the idea of all the plaster dust around my machines, but I will just have to tarp everything up. Part of my problem is that I haven't gotten the framing or electrical inspections done yet. What I should really do is do the work required to pass the inspections first (get engineering drawings stamped for the gambrel roof framing, make the stairs to the top floor etc.) stan Dust from cutting cement (wonderboard) type panels would be even worse. Had a guy help me hang, tape and finish th' sheetrock in th' kids room last summer. He never sanded th' mud, instead he used a damp sponge to smooth it prior to paint. He said it doesn't matter how long it's been dried, years even, and it still works. Clean up was a breeze. Snarl |
fire proofing shop
wrote in message ... On Sat, 13 May 2006 22:20:38 -0400, "ATP*" wrote: wrote in message oups.com... Hi Bruce Upon reflection I think you are right. I hate the idea of all the plaster dust around my machines, but I will just have to tarp everything up. Part of my problem is that I haven't gotten the framing or electrical inspections done yet. What I should really do is do the work required to pass the inspections first (get engineering drawings stamped for the gambrel roof framing, make the stairs to the top floor etc.) stan Dust from cutting cement (wonderboard) type panels would be even worse. Had a guy help me hang, tape and finish th' sheetrock in th' kids room last summer. He never sanded th' mud, instead he used a damp sponge to smooth it prior to paint. He said it doesn't matter how long it's been dried, years even, and it still works. Clean up was a breeze. Snarl I've heard that trick. I tried it and didn't like it. The sponge is not a clean straight edge. It left a lot of marks, but probably OK for a shop wall. A good (pro) taper/finisher does very little sanding. A smooth finish is accomplished with the knife. Tom |
fire proofing shop
On Sun, 14 May 2006 19:02:12 GMT, "Tom Wait"
wrote: wrote in message .. . On Sat, 13 May 2006 22:20:38 -0400, "ATP*" wrote: wrote in message oups.com... Hi Bruce Upon reflection I think you are right. I hate the idea of all the plaster dust around my machines, but I will just have to tarp everything up. Part of my problem is that I haven't gotten the framing or electrical inspections done yet. What I should really do is do the work required to pass the inspections first (get engineering drawings stamped for the gambrel roof framing, make the stairs to the top floor etc.) stan Dust from cutting cement (wonderboard) type panels would be even worse. Had a guy help me hang, tape and finish th' sheetrock in th' kids room last summer. He never sanded th' mud, instead he used a damp sponge to smooth it prior to paint. He said it doesn't matter how long it's been dried, years even, and it still works. Clean up was a breeze. Snarl I've heard that trick. I tried it and didn't like it. The sponge is not a clean straight edge. It left a lot of marks, but probably OK for a shop wall. This guy's done it for a long time and it shows in th' quality of his work. I wanted a smooth finish and that's what I got... sans sheetrock dust. A good (pro) taper/finisher does very little sanding. A smooth finish is accomplished with the knife. You're right, but weren't any of those kinda guys handy at th' time. Seems to happen that way consistently when I'm looking for sheetrock help. Like right now actually. Snarl |
fire proofing shop
wrote in message ... On Sun, 14 May 2006 19:02:12 GMT, "Tom Wait" wrote: wrote in message .. . On Sat, 13 May 2006 22:20:38 -0400, "ATP*" wrote: wrote in message oups.com... Hi Bruce Upon reflection I think you are right. I hate the idea of all the plaster dust around my machines, but I will just have to tarp everything up. Part of my problem is that I haven't gotten the framing or electrical inspections done yet. What I should really do is do the work required to pass the inspections first (get engineering drawings stamped for the gambrel roof framing, make the stairs to the top floor etc.) stan Dust from cutting cement (wonderboard) type panels would be even worse. Had a guy help me hang, tape and finish th' sheetrock in th' kids room last summer. He never sanded th' mud, instead he used a damp sponge to smooth it prior to paint. He said it doesn't matter how long it's been dried, years even, and it still works. Clean up was a breeze. Snarl I've heard that trick. I tried it and didn't like it. The sponge is not a clean straight edge. It left a lot of marks, but probably OK for a shop wall. This guy's done it for a long time and it shows in th' quality of his work. I wanted a smooth finish and that's what I got... sans sheetrock dust. A good (pro) taper/finisher does very little sanding. A smooth finish is accomplished with the knife. You're right, but weren't any of those kinda guys handy at th' time. Seems to happen that way consistently when I'm looking for sheetrock help. Like right now actually. Snarl Yup, just holler 'HELP' while standing next to a pile of rock and all your pals make like cockroaches when the light goes on. BTDT Tom |
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