resisting or "masking off" the weld arc, with copper? or with?
 

I need to make a piece of sheet steel .250 thick, roughly postcard
sized, with a square-edged "through-slot" (perforation) in the center of
it approx .0625 wide by .750 long. in my shop, the easiest way would be
to weld two pieces together at both ends, grind flush, and leave the
slot 'open' in the center. can I stick a small sheet or copper in the
'desired open spot' and expect it to resist the 'buzzbox arc', when I'm
using 6011 rod? what about sheet aluminum? or is there something better?

what'll -resist- the arc temperature, not melt, and stay square? getting
the inside ends square again with a tiny jewelers file could take hours....

thanks guys for tips and ideas :-)

toolie

resisting or "masking off" the weld arc, with copper? or with?
 

"dave" wrote in message
news:fC_7g.59150$IZ2.34290@dukeread07...
I need to make a piece of sheet steel .250 thick, roughly postcard sized,
with a square-edged "through-slot" (perforation) in the center of it approx
.0625 wide by .750 long. in my shop, the easiest way would be to weld two
pieces together at both ends, grind flush, and leave the slot 'open' in the
center. can I stick a small sheet or copper in the 'desired open spot' and
expect it to resist the 'buzzbox arc', when I'm using 6011 rod? what about
sheet aluminum? or is there something better?

what'll -resist- the arc temperature, not melt, and stay square? getting
the inside ends square again with a tiny jewelers file could take
hours....

thanks guys for tips and ideas :-)

toolie

I've successfully used copper flatbar for backing up thin metal when mig
welding. Works well, I'm not sure if it will work the way you want - try it!
Ally might "spit" or spatter more than copper.
rob

resisting or "masking off" the weld arc, with copper? or with?
 

Aluminum will just melt out. I'd try the copper bar but leave it long
out both sides to give it some heat disapating ability.

The correct way to do this is have an EDM shop do the hole. Not expensive.

dave wrote:

I need to make a piece of sheet steel .250 thick, roughly postcard
sized, with a square-edged "through-slot" (perforation) in the center of
it approx .0625 wide by .750 long. in my shop, the easiest way would be
to weld two pieces together at both ends, grind flush, and leave the
slot 'open' in the center. can I stick a small sheet or copper in the
'desired open spot' and expect it to resist the 'buzzbox arc', when I'm
using 6011 rod? what about sheet aluminum? or is there something better?

what'll -resist- the arc temperature, not melt, and stay square? getting
the inside ends square again with a tiny jewelers file could take hours....

thanks guys for tips and ideas :-)

toolie

resisting or "masking off" the weld arc, with copper? or with?
 

dave wrote:
I need to make a piece of sheet steel .250 thick, roughly postcard
sized, with a square-edged "through-slot" (perforation) in the center of
it approx .0625 wide by .750 long. in my shop, the easiest way would be
to weld two pieces together at both ends, grind flush, and leave the
slot 'open' in the center.

thanks guys for tips and ideas :-)

toolie

I would use a hacksaw blade to clean up the ends of the slot. Or maybe
stack two blades to get more width.

Dan

resisting or "masking off" the weld arc, with copper? or with?
 

dave wrote:
I need to make a piece of sheet steel .250 thick, roughly postcard
sized, with a square-edged "through-slot" (perforation) in the center of
it approx .0625 wide by .750 long. in my shop, the easiest way would be
to weld two pieces together at both ends, grind flush, and leave the
slot 'open' in the center. can I stick a small sheet or copper in the
'desired open spot' and expect it to resist the 'buzzbox arc', when I'm
using 6011 rod? what about sheet aluminum? or is there something better?

what'll -resist- the arc temperature, not melt, and stay square? getting
the inside ends square again with a tiny jewelers file could take hours....

thanks guys for tips and ideas :-)

toolie
I've tried something like this with copper sheet, the equivalent
thickness of 16ga. It burned along with everything else. THe other
posters mentioned a copper bar. I would think that that is the better
way to go.

--
Gary Brady
Austin, TX
www.powdercoatoven.4t.com

resisting or "masking off" the weld arc, with copper? or with?
 

dave wrote:

what'll -resist- the arc temperature, not melt, and stay square? getting
the inside ends square again with a tiny jewelers file could take hours....

Forget about copper. It will melt away if you hit it directly with the
arc.
You can use copper if it is underneath the weld and you want / need to
conduct the heat away.
And yes, you can weld copper to steel with an arc. I have done it
(willingly) and it works perfect.
Also, don't you care about the distortion you will get with welding
sheet metal?

A (not so comfortable) suggestion would be tungsten.
Conclusion:
forget it, file it!


Nick
--
Motor Modelle // Engine Models
http://www.motor-manufaktur.de
DIY-DRO // Eigenbau-Digitalanzeige
http://www.yadro.de

resisting or "masking off" the weld arc, with copper? or with?
 

Conclusion:
forget it, file it!

Might I suggest a nibbler?

GWE

resisting or "masking off" the weld arc, with copper? or with?
 

Using a nibbler on a 1/16" slot in 1/4" plate?? Ohhhhh, I want to see
that nibbler!

Grant Erwin wrote:

Conclusion:
forget it, file it!


Might I suggest a nibbler?

GWE