Sheldon 10 x 56 XL (large spindle hole) lathe. What size quick change do I
need from enco for this lathe?

Will this one fit??????? This one is axa (series 100)
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PARTPG=INLMK32

This one is bxa (series 200)
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PARTPG=INLMK32

What is the difference between these two? Size? I've seen the axa tool posts
and they strike me as being on the smallish side. What is most appropriate,
and how do I know they will fit in the above lathe?

Secondly, I would like to bore and knurl when I receive this set. It is not
clear to me if the set includes the boring bar itself and the knurl
tool/knurls themselves?
If not, what ones to I order that will fit this tool post set?

Thanks
Darrin

wrace wrote:
Sheldon 10 x 56 XL (large spindle hole) lathe. What size quick change do I
need from enco for this lathe?

What is the difference between these two? Size?

AXA (100) is for "up to 12 inch", BXA (200) is for "10 to 15 inch", and
yes
the difference is size (and because of that, stiffness). The
Enco/PhaseII sets
come with knurls but no boring bars.

Even though this is not an Aloris post, we can "cheat" and use their
documentation. Their catalog at
http://www.aloris.com/pdfs/Aloris_catalog2004_FINAL.pdf
(huge, over 16M due to all the color photos) has a section on
recommended
posts for common lathes. They suggest the AXA size for your 10"
Sheldon.

I have a BXA on my 14" lathe, and still get a fair amount of chatter,
but to
be fair I believe a lot of this is coming from my crossslide and
compound.
The Aloris document suggests CXA as being appropriate for this lathe,
and
I agree on a size basis if nothing else--I had to add a 1/4" spacer
under mine
to get 1/2" bits to adjust on center. Other than that, I'm very happy
with it,
I've never even installed the lantern toolpost I got with the lathe.


HTH,
--Glenn Lyford

Secondly, I would like to bore and knurl when I receive this set.
If not, what ones to I order that will fit this tool post set?

Oh, almost forgot: Looks like the #4 holder in AXA will take a 3/4"
boring bar, or 1/2" with the adapter sleeve (could be 5/8?). The #2
holder will take any size round boring bar up to 1/2". In a pinch,
you can even use a drill bit with the flutes appropriately angled.
--Glenn Lyford

wrace wrote:
Sheldon 10 x 56 XL (large spindle hole) lathe. What size quick change do I
need from enco for this lathe?

Will this one fit??????? This one is axa (series 100)
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PARTPG=INLMK32

This one is bxa (series 200)
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PARTPG=INLMK32

What is the difference between these two? Size? I've seen the axa tool posts
and they strike me as being on the smallish side. What is most appropriate,
and how do I know they will fit in the above lathe?

Secondly, I would like to bore and knurl when I receive this set. It is not
clear to me if the set includes the boring bar itself and the knurl
tool/knurls themselves?
If not, what ones to I order that will fit this tool post set?

Thanks
Darrin




I have the same machine. I have a an AXA size and find it to be
"right". I tried a BXA size from my other machine, and while it fit, it
was big enough to seem to be "in the way" much of the time. I bought the
AXA set from this place:

http://www.billstoolcrib.com/

They had the wedge type for about the same price as everyone else has
the piston style for. They gave me free shipping, because they offered
it on their ebay page, and I asked for it. No connection, just a
satisfied customer.

My 2 cents...

Hope that helps,
Al A.

My Sheldon 11x44 uses the AXA size just fine. It would fit the 10 as it also
fits the 9 (prior posts).

The B is larger by far. One is square bottom that must fit on your compound.
A B size is to large very likely.

The other is height - the range for a tool carrier to hit center - best fit on the A.
The B is much higher.

Bigger isn't better - often won't fit at all ! Measure and look at the dimensions
on the page - catalog page not the special full item view page.

Martin

Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH & Endowment Member
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member


wrace wrote:
Sheldon 10 x 56 XL (large spindle hole) lathe. What size quick change do I
need from enco for this lathe?

Will this one fit??????? This one is axa (series 100)
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PARTPG=INLMK32

This one is bxa (series 200)
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PARTPG=INLMK32

What is the difference between these two? Size? I've seen the axa tool posts
and they strike me as being on the smallish side. What is most appropriate,
and how do I know they will fit in the above lathe?

Secondly, I would like to bore and knurl when I receive this set. It is not
clear to me if the set includes the boring bar itself and the knurl
tool/knurls themselves?
If not, what ones to I order that will fit this tool post set?

Thanks
Darrin



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Thanks guys.

The catalog says, "may need to machine t-nut". I don't see any dimensions
for the t-nut specifically, and even if there were I doubt it would make
much difference with this old lathe. I guess what I'm getting at is I
suspect I will need to modify the t-nut to fit this lathe?

If that's the case, I don't have a mill, and I don't have a 4 jaw chuck for
this lathe. Can I rig a way to "machine" the t-nut with just a three jaw??
How about grind or file the nut?

Thanks

"Martin H. Eastburn" wrote in message
...
My Sheldon 11x44 uses the AXA size just fine. It would fit the 10 as it
also
fits the 9 (prior posts).

In article JF36g.14302$O_6.5601@trnddc08, says...
Thanks guys.

The catalog says, "may need to machine t-nut". I don't see any dimensions
for the t-nut specifically, and even if there were I doubt it would make
much difference with this old lathe. I guess what I'm getting at is I
suspect I will need to modify the t-nut to fit this lathe?

That's a very safe assumption.


If that's the case, I don't have a mill, and I don't have a 4 jaw chuck for
this lathe. Can I rig a way to "machine" the t-nut with just a three jaw??
How about grind or file the nut?

One way around butchering the t-nut until you come up with a way to do
the job properly is to cut out a rectangle from a piece of stock that'll
fit in the wide part of the t and fasten a stud to that. One
complication is that I think the AXA uses an unusual stud size (9/16
UNF?). I used a 1/2" stud welded into a piece of flat stock when I
mounted my used AXA until I got around to making a proper t-nut and
stud.

Ned Simmons

wrace wrote:
The catalog says, "may need to machine t-nut". I don't see any dimensions
for the t-nut specifically, and even if there were I doubt it would make
much difference with this old lathe. I guess what I'm getting at is I
suspect I will need to modify the t-nut to fit this lathe?

If that's the case, I don't have a mill, and I don't have a 4 jaw chuck for
this lathe. Can I rig a way to "machine" the t-nut with just a three jaw??
How about grind or file the nut?


If it's just length and width, a grinder or a belt sander will work
fine. If it's too thick, it becomes a little harder. I used a 4-jaw for
that part, before I had a mill. I guess you could thin it on a belt
sander, but it's difficult to keep the thickness uniform. Still, it's
not a precision thing, and if you destroy it, it's a simple matter to
make a new one from scrap.

The catalog says, "may need to machine t-nut".

How about grind or file the nut?

I used a hacksaw and a file. Works fine.
--Glenn Lyford

"wrace" wrote in message
news:JF36g.14302$O_6.5601@trnddc08...
Thanks guys.

The catalog says, "may need to machine t-nut". I don't see any dimensions
for the t-nut specifically, and even if there were I doubt it would make
much difference with this old lathe. I guess what I'm getting at is I
suspect I will need to modify the t-nut to fit this lathe?

If that's the case, I don't have a mill, and I don't have a 4 jaw chuck
for this lathe. Can I rig a way to "machine" the t-nut with just a three
jaw?? How about grind or file the nut?

The T-nut is basically a flat, T-shaped plate that fits into the slot of
your compound rest. The nut should be a reasonably close fit to that slot
(e.g., a few hundreths of an inch -- but it isn't too critical). It should
be as thick as possible. That is, the full height of the T-slot on the
compound with a couple of hundreth's play. Also, make one that is the full
size of the slot, when seen from above. The idea of making it as big as you
can is for increased holding power, increased stiffness, and decreased
likelyhood that it will move while working. None of these dimensions are
critical.
I don't see how a four-jaw chuck would help you at all -- unless you
intended to make the nut round, which would greatly reduce its strength. If
you were to be satisfied with this reduced holding power of a round nut,
then make a new one directly on the lathe. You don't need a four-jaw.
This is a good excuse to buy a milling vice for your lathe.
If you're going to do it by hand, I suggest a hack-saw (or, if you
have one, a metal-cutting band saw) for the rough work and then finish off
by hand with a file. I wouldn't use a grinder or a belt sander, much too
messy and too sloppy. Filing by hand may seem laborious, but it really
doesn't take all that long.

Boris

--

-------------------------------------
Boris Beizer Ph.D.
1232 Glenbrook Road
Huntingdon Valley, PA 19006

TEL: 215-572-5580
FAX: 215-886-0144
Email bsquare "at" earthlink.net

------------------------------------------

I had to mill mine the T bar that fits the compound is just over sided on purpose.

Find a shop in town or a friend. Is there a club to join ? - might be handy.


Martin

Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH & Endowment Member
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member


wrace wrote:
Thanks guys.

The catalog says, "may need to machine t-nut". I don't see any dimensions
for the t-nut specifically, and even if there were I doubt it would make
much difference with this old lathe. I guess what I'm getting at is I
suspect I will need to modify the t-nut to fit this lathe?

If that's the case, I don't have a mill, and I don't have a 4 jaw chuck for
this lathe. Can I rig a way to "machine" the t-nut with just a three jaw??
How about grind or file the nut?

Thanks

"Martin H. Eastburn" wrote in message
...

My Sheldon 11x44 uses the AXA size just fine. It would fit the 10 as it
also
fits the 9 (prior posts).




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According to wrace :
Thanks guys.

The catalog says, "may need to machine t-nut". I don't see any dimensions
for the t-nut specifically,

It is likely to be just a rectangular slab of steel, with a hole
drilled and tapped in it to accept the bolt which secures the toolpst to
the compound. The dimensions are simply large enough to allow it to be
fit to any lathe for which the given toolpost is a reasonable fit.

And you'll need to measure the dimensions of the T-slot in your
own compound to determine what size to make the T-nut into.

and even if there were I doubt it would make
much difference with this old lathe. I guess what I'm getting at is I
suspect I will need to modify the t-nut to fit this lathe?

That is correct. For some commonly available lathes, it is
possible to spend a little more and buy a T-nut properly sized for your
lathe.

If that's the case, I don't have a mill, and I don't have a 4 jaw chuck for
this lathe. Can I rig a way to "machine" the t-nut with just a three jaw??
How about grind or file the nut?

A good file, and a good bench vise should be sufficient, if
somewhat slow.

What kind of grinder did you have in mind? An angle grinder?
That might do, with a file to square up the shoulders of the T-nut. It
will need to be about the full thickness from the top of the compound to
the bottom of the T-slot (minus a bit to allow it to be easily slid into
place and removed at need). The width at the bottom should be a bit
smaller than the width of the bottom of the T-slot, and the width of the
top should be a bit smaller than the width of the top of the T-slot.
The shoulders should be so placed that the top of the T-nut can't quite
be drawn up to contact the toolpost before the shoulders firmly hit the
tops of the bottom slot.

I think that a bench grinder would not be a good choice for the
job.

Good Luck,
DoN.
--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Boris Beizer wrote:
"wrace" wrote in message
news:JF36g.14302$O_6.5601@trnddc08...
Thanks guys.

The catalog says, "may need to machine t-nut". I don't see any dimensions
for the t-nut specifically, and even if there were I doubt it would make
much difference with this old lathe. I guess what I'm getting at is I
suspect I will need to modify the t-nut to fit this lathe?

If that's the case, I don't have a mill, and I don't have a 4 jaw chuck
for this lathe. Can I rig a way to "machine" the t-nut with just a three
jaw?? How about grind or file the nut?

The T-nut is basically a flat, T-shaped plate that fits into the slot of
your compound rest. The nut should be a reasonably close fit to that slot
(e.g., a few hundreths of an inch -- but it isn't too critical). It should
be as thick as possible. That is, the full height of the T-slot on the
compound with a couple of hundreth's play. Also, make one that is the full
size of the slot, when seen from above. The idea of making it as big as you
can is for increased holding power, increased stiffness, and decreased
likelyhood that it will move while working. None of these dimensions are
critical.
I don't see how a four-jaw chuck would help you at all -- unless you
intended to make the nut round, which would greatly reduce its strength. If
you were to be satisfied with this reduced holding power of a round nut,
then make a new one directly on the lathe. You don't need a four-jaw.

I bought a 100-series Phase II set on the $89 Enco deal, to fit my 9"
Logan. The T-nut plate was too large in every dimension. Fixed that in
the lathe. Here's what I did:

1 Chucked Tp stud into 3-jaw with plate attached, faced off to needed
thickness.
2 Reversed plate to face off top portion so it would extend to just
below the surface of the compound.
3 As I had no milling capability, I then turned the step into a rounded
boss to fit the narrower top portion of the compound slot.
4 Scribed lines for width of lower portion, ground sides to fit the
width of the lower slot.
5 Installed toopost.

Not ideal, but it's worked fine for several years now.
2 Chucked plate

"Rex B" wrote in message
...

Boris Beizer wrote:
"wrace" wrote in message
news:JF36g.14302$O_6.5601@trnddc08...
Thanks guys.

I bought a 100-series Phase II set on the $89 Enco deal, to fit my 9"
Logan. The T-nut plate was too large in every dimension. Fixed that in
the lathe. Here's what I did:

1 Chucked snip a workable procedure 5 Installed toopost.

Not ideal, but it's worked fine for several years now.

True, not ideal, but a fair compromise. Not as bad as a fully round nut
and almost as strong as a "proper" fully rectangular nut. I 'd change it
though, as follows:

4 Scribed lines for width of lower portion, cut sidesoff with hacksaw to
fit the
width of the lower slot and filed to a nice finish.

I just don't like to use grinders for anything but sharpening tools or if
available, for high-precision finishing. Grinders just aren't for hogging
metal off.

Boris

--

-------------------------------------
Boris Beizer Ph.D.
1232 Glenbrook Road
Huntingdon Valley, PA 19006

TEL: 215-572-5580
FAX: 215-886-0144
Email bsquare "at" earthlink.net

------------------------------------------

Boris Beizer wrote:
I just don't like to use grinders for anything but sharpening tools or if
available, for high-precision finishing. Grinders just aren't for hogging
metal off.

Well, to be perfectly accurate, I think I used a belt/disc sander rather
than a grinder. Whatever, it's worked well enough that I have not
replaced it, though I now have a milling machine as well as a lathe
milling attachment.