Enclosure for electronic speed controller ????
I lucked up and found a source for KB Electronic DC controllers
locally that will sell to me wholesale. I had been going to buy one controller in particular, that was already in an enclosure, but he explained to me that I would be ahead in the long run buying another model with the factory installed heatsink etc already on it, as it was better than the ones yu could add a heat sink to as the components in the chassis type had the items needing cooling already attached to the heat sink, instead of just placing a heat sink against the enclosure box itself. So I bought the chassis type, but need to make a box for it. I plan on making the box out of acrylic plastic, with the back of the box cutout to allow heat sink to extend throuh outside of the box for cooling. Do you think it would be a good idea to add perhaps a 1 1/2" muffin fan or even a 3" muffin type fan to this acrylic box to pull air over the internals that the box is now enclosing and duct it oput down and over the heat sink? Or should I be able to just enclose the chassis and have the heat sink exposed to ambient air for cooling? I do need to enclose it as its going to be mounted in the lower section of my 20" bandsaws base cabinet, which does get dust etc in it. I plan on relocating the speed pot to the front of the saw for easy access just like my old controller had..... HOw much space should I leave around the chassis for air flow etc? I am driving a 1.5hp 107VAC 15 amp DC motor. Any suggestions appreciated. -- \\\|/// ( @ @ ) -----------oOOo(_)oOOo--------------- oooO ---------( )----Oooo---------------- \ ( ( ) \_) ) / (_/ The original frugal ponder ! Koi-ahoi mates.... |
Enclosure for electronic speed controller ????
Any particular reason you need an enclosure for it?
I've got a KB VFD and was going to put in an enclosure. It sounds similiar to your DC controller. It has a big heat sink in the back. The wiring goes through knock outs, so there are no exposed connections. Mine is mounted on the wall so under a cabinet so nothing can fall into it. I mounted a piece of plexiglass on the wall and cabinet at an angle so the lathe can't throw anything at it. That save me from having to buy the remote panel kit. Of course if yours have exposed connections it will need an enclosure. Wayne D. On Sat, 25 Feb 2006 16:19:32 GMT, ~Roy~ wrote: I lucked up and found a source for KB Electronic DC controllers locally that will sell to me wholesale. I had been going to buy one controller in particular, that was already in an enclosure, but he explained to me that I would be ahead in the long run buying another model with the factory installed heatsink etc already on it, as it was better than the ones yu could add a heat sink to as the components in the chassis type had the items needing cooling already attached to the heat sink, instead of just placing a heat sink against the enclosure box itself. So I bought the chassis type, but need to make a box for it. I plan on making the box out of acrylic plastic, with the back of the box cutout to allow heat sink to extend throuh outside of the box for cooling. Do you think it would be a good idea to add perhaps a 1 1/2" muffin fan or even a 3" muffin type fan to this acrylic box to pull air over the internals that the box is now enclosing and duct it oput down and over the heat sink? Or should I be able to just enclose the chassis and have the heat sink exposed to ambient air for cooling? I do need to enclose it as its going to be mounted in the lower section of my 20" bandsaws base cabinet, which does get dust etc in it. I plan on relocating the speed pot to the front of the saw for easy access just like my old controller had..... HOw much space should I leave around the chassis for air flow etc? I am driving a 1.5hp 107VAC 15 amp DC motor. Any suggestions appreciated. |
Enclosure for electronic speed controller ????
I bought a used DC controller off ebay for use with a 1.5hp 180v DC
permanent magnet Baldor, doing a retrofit on an old, cheap offshore BP knockoff. The same controller could run a 90v DC motor and/or one with field windings. Finally I can go slow enough! I was worried about metal chips, etc. getting onto the controller but I was also worried about cooling, as it didn't have an integral fan. I ended up mounting it in an old steel electrical disconnect panel, which I put on the wall near the input plug in.... well away from the mill and small chips (or dust in your case).... and ran the motor power cable and low voltage control wires up to the mill. I added an electronic tach also, so my control box on the mill has start/stop, fwd/rev, variable speed pot, coolant switch and the tach readout. The surface area of the metal box increases the heat sink capability and I've had no problem with heat. I have a couple of VFDs good up to 3hp that incorporate built-in fans already. The smaller hp models of the same brand name don't have the fans. al. I recently bought a second new controller (off ebay) to run a duplicate motor I have. It also has no cooling fan. "~Roy~" wrote in message ... I lucked up and found a source for KB Electronic DC controllers locally that will sell to me wholesale. I had been going to buy one controller in particular, that was already in an enclosure, but he explained to me that I would be ahead in the long run buying another model with the factory installed heatsink etc already on it, as it was better than the ones yu could add a heat sink to as the components in the chassis type had the items needing cooling already attached to the heat sink, instead of just placing a heat sink against the enclosure box itself. So I bought the chassis type, but need to make a box for it. I plan on making the box out of acrylic plastic, with the back of the box cutout to allow heat sink to extend throuh outside of the box for cooling. Do you think it would be a good idea to add perhaps a 1 1/2" muffin fan or even a 3" muffin type fan to this acrylic box to pull air over the internals that the box is now enclosing and duct it oput down and over the heat sink? Or should I be able to just enclose the chassis and have the heat sink exposed to ambient air for cooling? I do need to enclose it as its going to be mounted in the lower section of my 20" bandsaws base cabinet, which does get dust etc in it. I plan on relocating the speed pot to the front of the saw for easy access just like my old controller had..... HOw much space should I leave around the chassis for air flow etc? I am driving a 1.5hp 107VAC 15 amp DC motor. Any suggestions appreciated. -- \\\|/// ( @ @ ) -----------oOOo(_)oOOo--------------- oooO ---------( )----Oooo---------------- \ ( ( ) \_) ) / (_/ The original frugal ponder ! Koi-ahoi mates.... |
Enclosure for electronic speed controller ????
Well I have a box full of all kinds of muffin fans, some 120VAC and others a mix of varous DC voltages, and installing a fan in a acrylic enclosure would not incurr any additional $$, and can only be an additional benefit since heat is a killer of electronics. I am just thinking of how much space I need to allow around the enclosure I make. I am sort of limited in space as to where it will be mounted, and its certainly not the cleanest environment, so thats why I was thinking adding a fan with filter for the internals in additon to relying on the heatsink which will stick out the back of the enclosure. I intend to make the lid sealed with a rubber gasket to further keep chips etc out of it, so a typical electrical panel type box would not be suitable. unless it wa a standard enclosure with no knock outs etc that was designed to be totally water resistemnt. My chassis is 2" high from the back plate, (not counting the heat sink out the back as its not going to be included in the box) and measures 6.25" x 5.65" in size,. So do you think an enclosure with 1" space all aroond the chassis itself would be ok? 8.25" x 7.65" x 3". I am thinking of pulling air through the enclosures bottom through a filter and directing the exhaust out and over the heat sink on the back. Probably overkill but I want to ensure the controller has a decent environement. Instalal insturctions are quite bland in mounting it other than saying it needs to be in a place with no chance of dirt and liquids getting on it........nothing in reagds to how much space needs to be around it. On Sat, 25 Feb 2006 10:10:40 -0700, "Al MacDonald" wrote: I bought a used DC controller off ebay for use with a 1.5hp 180v DC permanent magnet Baldor, doing a retrofit on an old, cheap offshore BP knockoff. The same controller could run a 90v DC motor and/or one with field windings. Finally I can go slow enough! I was worried about metal chips, etc. getting onto the controller but I was also worried about cooling, as it didn't have an integral fan. I ended up mounting it in an old steel electrical disconnect panel, which I put on the wall near the input plug in.... well away from the mill and small chips (or dust in your case).... and ran the motor power cable and low voltage control wires up to the mill. I added an electronic tach also, so my control box on the mill has start/stop, fwd/rev, variable speed pot, coolant switch and the tach readout. The surface area of the metal box increases the heat sink capability and I've had no problem with heat. I have a couple of VFDs good up to 3hp that incorporate built-in fans already. The smaller hp models of the same brand name don't have the fans. al. I recently bought a second new controller (off ebay) to run a duplicate motor I have. It also has no cooling fan. "~Roy~" wrote in message . .. I lucked up and found a source for KB Electronic DC controllers locally that will sell to me wholesale. I had been going to buy one controller in particular, that was already in an enclosure, but he explained to me that I would be ahead in the long run buying another model with the factory installed heatsink etc already on it, as it was better than the ones yu could add a heat sink to as the components in the chassis type had the items needing cooling already attached to the heat sink, instead of just placing a heat sink against the enclosure box itself. So I bought the chassis type, but need to make a box for it. I plan on making the box out of acrylic plastic, with the back of the box cutout to allow heat sink to extend throuh outside of the box for cooling. Do you think it would be a good idea to add perhaps a 1 1/2" muffin fan or even a 3" muffin type fan to this acrylic box to pull air over the internals that the box is now enclosing and duct it oput down and over the heat sink? Or should I be able to just enclose the chassis and have the heat sink exposed to ambient air for cooling? I do need to enclose it as its going to be mounted in the lower section of my 20" bandsaws base cabinet, which does get dust etc in it. I plan on relocating the speed pot to the front of the saw for easy access just like my old controller had..... HOw much space should I leave around the chassis for air flow etc? I am driving a 1.5hp 107VAC 15 amp DC motor. Any suggestions appreciated. -- \\\|/// ( @ @ ) -----------oOOo(_)oOOo--------------- oooO ---------( )----Oooo---------------- \ ( ( ) \_) ) / (_/ The original frugal ponder ! Koi-ahoi mates.... -- \\\|/// ( @ @ ) -----------oOOo(_)oOOo--------------- oooO ---------( )----Oooo---------------- \ ( ( ) \_) ) / (_/ The original frugal ponder ! Koi-ahoi mates.... |
Enclosure for electronic speed controller ????
The volume of air in the enclosure is irrelevant. What
you want to avoid is heat buildup in any part of the controller. So if you flow enough air in and out of the enclosure, the temperature in the enclosure will be the same as the abient temperature outside the enclosure. So air flow over the heat sink is important. If there are vent holes in the controller for the rest of the electronics, make sure air flows there also. Otherwise make sure there is enough airflow around the whole controller to avoid heat buildup inside the controller. Wayne D. On Sat, 25 Feb 2006 17:56:58 GMT, ~Roy~ wrote: Well I have a box full of all kinds of muffin fans, some 120VAC and others a mix of varous DC voltages, and installing a fan in a acrylic enclosure would not incurr any additional $$, and can only be an additional benefit since heat is a killer of electronics. I am just thinking of how much space I need to allow around the enclosure I make. I am sort of limited in space as to where it will be mounted, and its certainly not the cleanest environment, so thats why I was thinking adding a fan with filter for the internals in additon to relying on the heatsink which will stick out the back of the enclosure. I intend to make the lid sealed with a rubber gasket to further keep chips etc out of it, so a typical electrical panel type box would not be suitable. unless it wa a standard enclosure with no knock outs etc that was designed to be totally water resistemnt. My chassis is 2" high from the back plate, (not counting the heat sink out the back as its not going to be included in the box) and measures 6.25" x 5.65" in size,. So do you think an enclosure with 1" space all aroond the chassis itself would be ok? 8.25" x 7.65" x 3". I am thinking of pulling air through the enclosures bottom through a filter and directing the exhaust out and over the heat sink on the back. Probably overkill but I want to ensure the controller has a decent environement. Instalal insturctions are quite bland in mounting it other than saying it needs to be in a place with no chance of dirt and liquids getting on it........nothing in reagds to how much space needs to be around it. |
Enclosure for electronic speed controller ????
On Sat, 25 Feb 2006 14:08:14 -0600, Wayne
wrote: The volume of air in the enclosure is irrelevant. What you want to avoid is heat buildup in any part of the controller. So if you flow enough air in and out of the enclosure, the temperature in the enclosure will be the same as the abient temperature outside the enclosure. So air flow over the heat sink is important. If there are vent holes in the controller for the rest of the electronics, make sure air flows there also. Otherwise make sure there is enough airflow around the whole controller to avoid heat buildup inside the controller. Wayne D. On Sat, 25 Feb 2006 17:56:58 GMT, ~Roy~ wrote: Well I have a box full of all kinds of muffin fans, some 120VAC and snip I put lots of vfd's in enclosures. Some are in classified areas, others aren't. I use a free download from Hoffman to calculate whether or not I'll have a problem. Here's the link: http://www.hoffmanonline.com/Technic...adTherSoft.htm Most of the time, it's not a problem, plus I monitor and alarm the heat sink temperatures in my control software. Larger drives, or lots of drives in one cabinet require more cooling. In my Z-purged enclosures (flammable areas) I usually use a water cooled heat exchanger. Just don't allow it to freeze. When we shipped some skids back from out of state, the guys prepping for the move didn't blow out the exchangers, so they froze and I had up to three inches of water in a box with a bunch of electronics. We had to drain the swamp then dry the boxes with fans. Actually, we didn't lose anything except the exchangers themselves. Pete Keillor |
Enclosure for electronic speed controller ????
On Sat, 25 Feb 2006 22:29:52 -0500, Pete Keillor
wrote: On Sat, 25 Feb 2006 14:08:14 -0600, Wayne wrote: The volume of air in the enclosure is irrelevant. What you want to avoid is heat buildup in any part of the controller. So if you flow enough air in and out of the enclosure, the temperature in the enclosure will be the same as the abient temperature outside the enclosure. So air flow over the heat sink is important. If there are vent holes in the controller for the rest of the electronics, make sure air flows there also. Otherwise make sure there is enough airflow around the whole controller to avoid heat buildup inside the controller. Wayne D. On Sat, 25 Feb 2006 17:56:58 GMT, ~Roy~ wrote: Well I have a box full of all kinds of muffin fans, some 120VAC and snip I put lots of vfd's in enclosures. Some are in classified areas, others aren't. I use a free download from Hoffman to calculate whether or not I'll have a problem. Here's the link: http://www.hoffmanonline.com/Technic...adTherSoft.htm Most of the time, it's not a problem, plus I monitor and alarm the heat sink temperatures in my control software. Larger drives, or lots of drives in one cabinet require more cooling. In my Z-purged enclosures (flammable areas) I usually use a water cooled heat exchanger. Just don't allow it to freeze. When we shipped some skids back from out of state, the guys prepping for the move didn't blow out the exchangers, so they froze and I had up to three inches of water in a box with a bunch of electronics. We had to drain the swamp then dry the boxes with fans. Actually, we didn't lose anything except the exchangers themselves. Pete Keillor I thought I'd add that most of the older drives (AB 1336's) are electrically noisy if you're doing networking and I/O in the same enclosure. Adding chokes to the motor leads helps. The new drives (AB Powerflex) are much better shielded, but I usually add chokes to them, too. I usually avoid doing any I/O in the same enclosure if possible, but networked drives are nice. Pete Keillor |
Enclosure for electronic speed controller ????
Noise probably wil not be an issue with powering a bandsaw.
On Sat, 25 Feb 2006 22:35:55 -0500, Pete Keillor wrote: On Sat, 25 Feb 2006 22:29:52 -0500, Pete Keillor wrote: On Sat, 25 Feb 2006 14:08:14 -0600, Wayne wrote: The volume of air in the enclosure is irrelevant. What you want to avoid is heat buildup in any part of the controller. So if you flow enough air in and out of the enclosure, the temperature in the enclosure will be the same as the abient temperature outside the enclosure. So air flow over the heat sink is important. If there are vent holes in the controller for the rest of the electronics, make sure air flows there also. Otherwise make sure there is enough airflow around the whole controller to avoid heat buildup inside the controller. Wayne D. On Sat, 25 Feb 2006 17:56:58 GMT, ~Roy~ wrote: Well I have a box full of all kinds of muffin fans, some 120VAC and snip I put lots of vfd's in enclosures. Some are in classified areas, others aren't. I use a free download from Hoffman to calculate whether or not I'll have a problem. Here's the link: http://www.hoffmanonline.com/Technic...adTherSoft.htm Most of the time, it's not a problem, plus I monitor and alarm the heat sink temperatures in my control software. Larger drives, or lots of drives in one cabinet require more cooling. In my Z-purged enclosures (flammable areas) I usually use a water cooled heat exchanger. Just don't allow it to freeze. When we shipped some skids back from out of state, the guys prepping for the move didn't blow out the exchangers, so they froze and I had up to three inches of water in a box with a bunch of electronics. We had to drain the swamp then dry the boxes with fans. Actually, we didn't lose anything except the exchangers themselves. Pete Keillor I thought I'd add that most of the older drives (AB 1336's) are electrically noisy if you're doing networking and I/O in the same enclosure. Adding chokes to the motor leads helps. The new drives (AB Powerflex) are much better shielded, but I usually add chokes to them, too. I usually avoid doing any I/O in the same enclosure if possible, but networked drives are nice. Pete Keillor -- \\\|/// ( @ @ ) -----------oOOo(_)oOOo--------------- oooO ---------( )----Oooo---------------- \ ( ( ) \_) ) / (_/ The original frugal ponder ! Koi-ahoi mates.... |
Enclosure for electronic speed controller ????
Hi roy we use about 50 kbic -125s a year who is your source ?
|
Enclosure for electronic speed controller ????
The KBs with a flat (aluminum) mounting plate mount nicely when
fastened to the back of a metal enclosure (heatsink compound applied). The metal enclosure provides the additional cooling surface. An optional procedure is to add a large finned heatsink to the back of the metal enclosure to provide even more heat dissipation (assuming ambient air is cool). With the enclosure closed or sealed, the module stays clean and cool. The KB website may have more info related to mounting and ventilation, and other drive manufacturers' websites may also. Generally, the circuit board components don't need cooling in normal operating conditions, but the components that are fastened to the heatsink need to have their heat dissipated away from them, into the area's natural air currents. With a factory installed finned heatsink, the design includes adequate heat dissipation from the fins, in most cases, assuming that there is some air movement over the fins. A plastic enclosure wouldn't be my first choice for mounting a power-dissipating circuit, but a small fan for ventilation would be an appropriate measure. If you were to ask opinions of whether pushing air in, or drawing air out, is more effective, I'm sure it would be a lively discussion. I've seen both of those methods strongly insisted and defended before. I believe your KB drive has better over-current and current surge protection than your other drive had. The manufacturer's installation/setup adjustments should cover the limit adjustments. Having a amp meter (or a heavy duty current shunt with a meter) to monitor the load current, for a couple of test runs will allow you to make sure that the drive is operating within it's intended range. A GE drive that I have, came with a finned heatsink, but only the SCR pack was attached to the heatsink, so I cut a clearance hole in the back of the enclosure, fastened the heatsink to the outside rear surface of the enclosure, and then re-mounted the SCR pack to the heatsink as it had been originally mounted. This method ensures that the circuit is kept clean, and that the power device has better heat dissipation characteristics, as the metal enclosure effectively increases the heatsink area. The KB drive I have, has more than just the power device attached to the finned heatsink, so I won't be using the same method to enclose it. When I get around to using it, I'll probably just install it in a ventilated enclosure, away from sources of stray conductive material. I don't anticipate that any additional ventilation methods will be required. A metal box (with louvers, for example) should be adequate, since almost any environment has naturally occurring air currents. With the module factory installed on a heatsink, mounted completely within an unvented enclosure, the enclosure's surface area isn't effectively coupled to the module's heatsink. This type of installation should have some type of cooling fan or cooling air movement added to the enclosure. WB ............... ~Roy~ wrote: I lucked up and found a source for KB Electronic DC controllers locally that will sell to me wholesale. I had been going to buy one controller in particular, that was already in an enclosure, but he explained to me that I would be ahead in the long run buying another model with the factory installed heatsink etc already on it, as it was better than the ones yu could add a heat sink to as the components in the chassis type had the items needing cooling already attached to the heat sink, instead of just placing a heat sink against the enclosure box itself. So I bought the chassis type, but need to make a box for it. I plan on making the box out of acrylic plastic, with the back of the box cutout to allow heat sink to extend throuh outside of the box for cooling. Do you think it would be a good idea to add perhaps a 1 1/2" muffin fan or even a 3" muffin type fan to this acrylic box to pull air over the internals that the box is now enclosing and duct it oput down and over the heat sink? Or should I be able to just enclose the chassis and have the heat sink exposed to ambient air for cooling? I do need to enclose it as its going to be mounted in the lower section of my 20" bandsaws base cabinet, which does get dust etc in it. I plan on relocating the speed pot to the front of the saw for easy access just like my old controller had..... HOw much space should I leave around the chassis for air flow etc? I am driving a 1.5hp 107VAC 15 amp DC motor. Any suggestions appreciated. |
Enclosure for electronic speed controller ????
Just a local company here that used to go by the name of Industrial
Supply Co. It has since changed names. When KB gave me the name of the company I was at aloss as I had never heard it before, something like Command Control, but they gave me the phone number. I called them and got directions, and wound up at the old Industrial Supply place...Same folks, just different name....I can;t say what the exact name is off the top of my head, and my receipts etc are in my truck outside and its raining cats and dogs for the last 10 hours...... On 25 Feb 2006 22:10:51 -0800, "tim" wrote: Hi roy we use about 50 kbic -125s a year who is your source ? -- \\\|/// ( @ @ ) -----------oOOo(_)oOOo--------------- oooO ---------( )----Oooo---------------- \ ( ( ) \_) ) / (_/ The original frugal ponder ! Koi-ahoi mates.... |
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