Tinning Copper saucepans - again!
 

I've read the previous threads on this subject and need some help
making them come together.
Bought my pure tin, tallow, and Bakers No5,
Scoured my pan with de-greaser and dipped in caustic soda to be sure of
getting rid of the grease,
Wire wooled the surface
Applied the Bakers No 5 flux by poring it in the bottom and wiping
around the sides with an old rag.
First tried to heat the pan with a blow torch - but couldn't get the
all-over heat. So put the pan on the stove.
When hot enough put a tin stick in the pan and it melted easily on the
bottom.
However the molten tin went into pools and wouldn't adhere to areas of
the pan bottom or the sides - it just flowed over these areas
Any suggestions on what to try next would be greatly appreciated
Are there any web-sites with step by step pictures ?
DO I need more heat

thanks

Denis

Tinning Copper saucepans - again!
 

In article . com,
" wrote:

However the molten tin went into pools and wouldn't adhere to areas of
the pan bottom or the sides - it just flowed over these areas
Any suggestions on what to try next would be greatly appreciated
Are there any web-sites with step by step pictures ?
DO I need more heat

Despite the fact that you are sure that you've cleaned everything
perfectly, evidence (tin flowing over areas of the pan) would suggest
that you have not, or that you have allowed them to become oxidised
again after cleaning. More heat is more often a problem than a solution
in soldering (of which tinning is a specialised branch) - in fact,
overheating areas is one way to make them not take tin.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

Tinning Copper saucepans - again!
 

Putting the pan on the stove to heat it could cause cleaned
surfaces to become oxidized. Can you suspend it above the
burner to heat it up?


Ecnerwal wrote:

Despite the fact that you are sure that you've cleaned everything
perfectly, evidence (tin flowing over areas of the pan) would suggest
that you have not, or that you have allowed them to become oxidised
again after cleaning. More heat is more often a problem than a solution
in soldering (of which tinning is a specialised branch) - in fact,
overheating areas is one way to make them not take tin.

Tinning Copper saucepans - again!
 

you are working too hard - just put in a spoonfull or two of plumbers
flux (the acid stuff that come s in tubs), heat the pan on the stove
and scrub with steel wool (while it's hot enough to melt the tinning)
when everything is covered, wipe with a paper towel to spread tin
evenly and let cool, then wash off hte acid flux

I've done this, it works fine, takes just a few minutes - didn't do
any fancy cleaning either

On 21 Feb 2006 00:51:43 -0800, "
wrote:

I've read the previous threads on this subject and need some help
making them come together.
Bought my pure tin, tallow, and Bakers No5,
Scoured my pan with de-greaser and dipped in caustic soda to be sure of
getting rid of the grease,
Wire wooled the surface
Applied the Bakers No 5 flux by poring it in the bottom and wiping
around the sides with an old rag.
First tried to heat the pan with a blow torch - but couldn't get the
all-over heat. So put the pan on the stove.
When hot enough put a tin stick in the pan and it melted easily on the
bottom.
However the molten tin went into pools and wouldn't adhere to areas of
the pan bottom or the sides - it just flowed over these areas
Any suggestions on what to try next would be greatly appreciated
Are there any web-sites with step by step pictures ?
DO I need more heat

thanks

Denis
Bill

www.wbnoble.com

to contact me, do not reply to this message,
instead correct this address and use it

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Tinning Copper saucepans - again!