Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work.

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sparty
 
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Default Bandsaw for metal cutting

Without spending too much money, what is a good bandsaw to cutout
designs in metal. How thick of metal can you cut? I am eventually
going to buy a plasma cutter, but would like a bandsaw as well, without
spending too much.

Thanks, James

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Tony
 
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Default Bandsaw for metal cutting

You can get a decent Do-All on ebay for $1500.


"sparty" wrote in message
oups.com...
Without spending too much money, what is a good bandsaw to cutout
designs in metal. How thick of metal can you cut? I am eventually
going to buy a plasma cutter, but would like a bandsaw as well, without
spending too much.

Thanks, James



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Default Bandsaw for metal cutting

Tony wrote:
You can get a decent Do-All on ebay for $1500.



He said without spending too much. :-)

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

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Tony
 
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Default Bandsaw for metal cutting

comon, that's just a few tanks of gas :^)


wrote in message
oups.com...
Tony wrote:
You can get a decent Do-All on ebay for $1500.



He said without spending too much. :-)

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.





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lens
 
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Default Bandsaw for metal cutting

I am in the process of making my own budget vertical metal bandsaw. I
bought an old 14" Taiwanese wood bandsaw on Craigslist. A real old one
is good because it's heavier than the newer ones. I got a 30:1 gear
reducer on ebay for about $50 shipped. With 14" saw wheels, and a 1725
RPM motor, 30:1 gets you 210 fpm if you use direct drive with some
Lovejoy couplers. That speed is just about right for general metal
cutting, but If you play with belts and pullies, you can have other
speeds too. From what I've read on the NG, trying to do the 30:1 speed
reduction with pullies alone would be too hard and would likely slip
under loads. My saw is not done yet (I need to add some bracketing to
hold the gear reducer) but I think it will do pretty well for about
$200 total cost.

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Chuck Sherwood
 
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Default Bandsaw for metal cutting


I bought an OLD delta metal/wood bandsaw for about 400.
It has multiple metal speeds and one high speed for wood.
Useable as delivered but needs a paint job.

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Default Bandsaw for metal cutting

sparty write:

Without spending too much money, what is a good bandsaw to cutout
designs in metal. How thick of metal can you cut? I am eventually
going to buy a plasma cutter, but would like a bandsaw as well, without
spending too much.

Thanks, James



Just to give you an idea: I'm using a Enco 5x6 bandsaw (about $200) to
cut curves in 1" thick aluminum: 4 to 7" long cuts, min radius about
4". Takes five or ten minutes but goes pretty easily.

Keep in mind, the blade width will limit how tight a curve you can
cut. A 4"radius is about the limit for a 1/2" blade I think.

I'm not too concerned about accuracy: usually cut curves to within a
few hundredths oversize, then finish on mill. You could cut closer
than that if you can tolerate going undersize.

The table is a little flimsy so many people modify it for a bigger
one. But it works well enough for me as is.

If you get one of these saws make sure to buy a good blade for it.

--
Drew

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sparty
 
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Default Bandsaw for metal cutting

Thanks all. Has anyone tried that one from Harbor Freight...

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=37151

That looks pretty cool and an awesome price, just not sure how good it
is. I would like to stay under the $300 range.

I would be cutting 1/4" Steel/Aluminum and thinner. Not sure I would
ever need to do anything thicker. I would like to be able to cut out
designs, like lets say the State of Texas or Michigan or something
along those lines. I have used a plasma cutter before, but don't have
the money for one right now, and would also like something like this
that can do slightly cleaner cuts in tight corners, where a plasma
cutter can't.

Thanks.



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Gunner
 
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Default Bandsaw for metal cutting

On 25 Jan 2006 00:56:04 -0800, "lens" wrote:

I am in the process of making my own budget vertical metal bandsaw. I
bought an old 14" Taiwanese wood bandsaw on Craigslist. A real old one
is good because it's heavier than the newer ones. I got a 30:1 gear
reducer on ebay for about $50 shipped. With 14" saw wheels, and a 1725
RPM motor, 30:1 gets you 210 fpm if you use direct drive with some
Lovejoy couplers. That speed is just about right for general metal
cutting, but If you play with belts and pullies, you can have other
speeds too. From what I've read on the NG, trying to do the 30:1 speed
reduction with pullies alone would be too hard and would likely slip
under loads. My saw is not done yet (I need to add some bracketing to
hold the gear reducer) but I think it will do pretty well for about
$200 total cost.


Using a 3ph motor and a VFD can get you some speed ranges that are
very nice.

Gunner

"Deep in her heart, every moslem woman yearns to show us her tits"
John Griffin
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Peter Grey
 
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Default Bandsaw for metal cutting




"sparty" wrote in message
oups.com...
Thanks all. Has anyone tried that one from Harbor Freight...

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=37151

That looks pretty cool and an awesome price, just not sure how good it
is. I would like to stay under the $300 range.

I would be cutting 1/4" Steel/Aluminum and thinner. Not sure I would
ever need to do anything thicker. I would like to be able to cut out
designs, like lets say the State of Texas or Michigan or something
along those lines.


This is the unit that Tony recommended in his earlier post. The 4x6 bandsaw
site he pointed out would be good reading for you.

I have one of the HF units and it has served admirably over the last couple
of years. The table is small, and the whole thing is a little low for
continuous use as a vertical, but a new stand would be an easy project. I
use mine mostly as a horizontal and it works fine. About 10% of the time I
wish it had the capacity to handle larger stock (how large is your "State of
Texas"?), but obviously YMMV.

I paid $169 for mine and it's been well worth it.

Peter


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Mike Berger
 
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Default Bandsaw for metal cutting

I wondered about the usefulness of a big vertical bandsaw.
I have the Enco Turn-Pro 7x12 gearhead saw. It specs a
3/4" blade. As far as I can tell, you can't use a narrower
blade on this style saw. Is that correct?

A 3/4" wide blade isn't going to let me cut precise small
curves!

wrote:
ve or ten minutes but goes pretty easily.

Keep in mind, the blade width will limit how tight a curve you can
cut. A 4"radius is about the limit for a 1/2" blade I think.

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sparty
 
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Default Bandsaw for metal cutting

When I say cutting a State out, I figure about 4 to 8 inches square.

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Default Bandsaw for metal cutting

Mike Berger wrote:

I wondered about the usefulness of a big vertical bandsaw.
I have the Enco Turn-Pro 7x12 gearhead saw. It specs a
3/4" blade. As far as I can tell, you can't use a narrower
blade on this style saw. Is that correct?

A 3/4" wide blade isn't going to let me cut precise small
curves!


Eh, I just checked:
http://americanmachinetools.com/how_to_use_bandsaw.htm

A 1/2" blade will cut a min radius of 2.5" (not 4" as I said). A 3/4"
blade should get you down to about 5.5".

Don't know about the Enco 7x12 but there is no way to use a smaller
blade on the 5x6.

--
Drew



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Wayne Cook
 
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Default Bandsaw for metal cutting

On Wed, 25 Jan 2006 22:10:06 GMT, wrote:

Mike Berger wrote:

I wondered about the usefulness of a big vertical bandsaw.
I have the Enco Turn-Pro 7x12 gearhead saw. It specs a
3/4" blade. As far as I can tell, you can't use a narrower
blade on this style saw. Is that correct?

A 3/4" wide blade isn't going to let me cut precise small
curves!


Eh, I just checked:
http://americanmachinetools.com/how_to_use_bandsaw.htm

A 1/2" blade will cut a min radius of 2.5" (not 4" as I said). A 3/4"
blade should get you down to about 5.5".

Don't know about the Enco 7x12 but there is no way to use a smaller
blade on the 5x6.


A real vertical can use what ever width blades up to max size. The
horizontals are limited to one blade width.
Wayne Cook
Shamrock, TX
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
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Mike Berger
 
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Default Bandsaw for metal cutting

That's a great page. Thanks for the reference!

wrote:

Eh, I just checked:
http://americanmachinetools.com/how_to_use_bandsaw.htm

A 1/2" blade will cut a min radius of 2.5" (not 4" as I said). A 3/4"
blade should get you down to about 5.5".

Don't know about the Enco 7x12 but there is no way to use a smaller
blade on the 5x6.

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Fast Freddy
 
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Default wood to metal bandsaw?

I have a question about metal cutting bandsaws. Specifically, converting a
wood cutting bandsaw to cut metal. I got one real cheap at a garage sale. It
is a chinese-made 14" saw. Since I'm an absolute retard when it comes to
wood-working I needed to slow the blade speed way down. Using the stock
pulleys at the slowest setting I put on a metal cutting blade and grabbed a
piece of 1/4 inch plate to try it. Well, sparks fly and the blade burns up
immediately. So, I spend about a half day machining a bearing carrier,
bracket and shaft to reduce the speed. Bigger pulleys and smaller pulleys.
All out of stuff hanging around the shop, so no money spent yet. I even had
the right size belts. Got the speed down to 125 rpm. Run out, buy a new
blade at harbor freight, install it, grab the metal, and burn the blade up.
So I finally do the math and with 14 inch wheels I'm doing 500 fpm, way too
high for cutting metal, right? At least according to the sticker on my sheap
horizontal band saw. Probably need about 50 fpm, right?

Any suggestions for a cheap and dirty way to reduce the speed will be
greatly appreciated, as will any comments about metal-cutting bandsaws and
fpm and blade tooth counts, etc. It seems as if I can get this thing working
right I can make all kinds of cool stuff.

BTW, the reason I want an upright bandsaw is cause the 4X6 cheapie doesn't
have a large enough throat. Plus it is at a better height for working
without hurting an old man's back.

I've pretty much been a lurker around this NG, but I can truly say I've
learned a lot reading this stuff.


Fred
www.flamesbyfred.com




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John Martin
 
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Default wood to metal bandsaw?


Fast Freddy wrote:
I have a question about metal cutting bandsaws. Specifically, converting a
wood cutting bandsaw to cut metal. I got one real cheap at a garage sale. It
is a chinese-made 14" saw. Since I'm an absolute retard when it comes to
wood-working I needed to slow the blade speed way down. Using the stock
pulleys at the slowest setting I put on a metal cutting blade and grabbed a
piece of 1/4 inch plate to try it. Well, sparks fly and the blade burns up
immediately. So, I spend about a half day machining a bearing carrier,
bracket and shaft to reduce the speed. Bigger pulleys and smaller pulleys.
All out of stuff hanging around the shop, so no money spent yet. I even had
the right size belts. Got the speed down to 125 rpm. Run out, buy a new
blade at harbor freight, install it, grab the metal, and burn the blade up.
So I finally do the math and with 14 inch wheels I'm doing 500 fpm, way too
high for cutting metal, right? At least according to the sticker on my sheap
horizontal band saw. Probably need about 50 fpm, right?

Any suggestions for a cheap and dirty way to reduce the speed will be
greatly appreciated, as will any comments about metal-cutting bandsaws and
fpm and blade tooth counts, etc. It seems as if I can get this thing working
right I can make all kinds of cool stuff.

BTW, the reason I want an upright bandsaw is cause the 4X6 cheapie doesn't
have a large enough throat. Plus it is at a better height for working
without hurting an old man's back.

I've pretty much been a lurker around this NG, but I can truly say I've
learned a lot reading this stuff.


Fred
www.flamesbyfred.com


Check the archives - there have been plenty of discussions on this.

For cutting steel, you need to be much slower. You can get there with
V belts and jackshafts, but if your final drive to the saw is by belt
you may find it slips under the heavy torque required by a steel
cutting saw. Chain drive or a gearbox would be better.

John Martin

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Roy
 
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Default wood to metal bandsaw?

I built my own metal cutting band saw about 2 or so years ago and
faced this same dilema when it came to getting speeds slow enough. Too
small of pulleys and they slip, I did not want to fool with chains and
sprockets, wound up with a nice gear reducer which is 60:1 or may be
100:1 and hooked up a 1.5hp DC drive mnotor to it. Itw orked fine and
I could adjust my speed well below whats needed for metal cutting and
still run it up suffiicinet for most wood cutting.


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Fast Freddy
 
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Default wood to metal bandsaw?


"Roy" wrote in message
...
wound up with a nice gear reducer which is 60:1 or may be
100:1 and hooked up a 1.5hp DC drive mnotor to it. Itw orked fine and
I could adjust my speed well below whats needed for metal cutting and
still run it up suffiicinet for most wood cutting.


Where can a guy find a gearbox?
Fred


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Rex B
 
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Default wood to metal bandsaw?


Fast Freddy wrote:
"Roy" wrote in message
...
wound up with a nice gear reducer which is 60:1 or may be
100:1 and hooked up a 1.5hp DC drive mnotor to it. Itw orked fine and
I could adjust my speed well below whats needed for metal cutting and
still run it up suffiicinet for most wood cutting.


Where can a guy find a gearbox?
Fred


www.surpluscenter.com?

The key to that order of speed reduction is worm gears.
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Don Foreman
 
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Default wood to metal bandsaw?

On Sun, 29 Jan 2006 22:00:15 -0600, "Fast Freddy"
wrote:


"Roy" wrote in message
. ..
wound up with a nice gear reducer which is 60:1 or may be
100:1 and hooked up a 1.5hp DC drive mnotor to it. Itw orked fine and
I could adjust my speed well below whats needed for metal cutting and
still run it up suffiicinet for most wood cutting.


Where can a guy find a gearbox?
Fred


Harbor freight. Wait for their 2000 lb 12 volt winch, item number
92860, to go on sale for $49.95. It has a differential planetary
gear reduction of 153 : 1. Might be noisy, though.

The Wilton 14" metal-wood bandsaw uses a dog clutch, like the knee
crank on a B'Port, to disengage the gearbox and go direct belt drive
for wood.




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lens
 
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Default wood to metal bandsaw?

I got a got a 30:1 gear reducer on ebay for $50. That turns a 1725 RPM
motor into 200 fpm when you have 14" wheels. This assumes direct drive
- no belts between motor and gearbox input. Belts on the fast side of
the gearbox would be OK it you want to play with the speeds. Or as
Gunner said, a VFD and 3-phase motor would be even better. Ebay is
lousy for pricing on a lot of stuff but things like gear boxes and
3-phase motors go cheap. VFDs require more watching to get cheap on
Ebay so Dealers Electric is probably a better bet for that.

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