By the goodness of the Great Gods of Scrouging, I have been gifted with
access to a number of bench sized ovens and furnaces that could be used
in a HSM/woodworking shop....some of which will soon grace my humble
shop space.

If you were going to setup a oven/furnace corner in your shop, what
would you want to install for a set of ovens and furnaces? How big? How
hot? Gas or electric? Ventilation needs?

For applications I can think of heat treating, drying of parts, drying
of painted parts and the occasional pizza ;)....is there any use that
I am leaving out?

If one would like to upgrade some of the controllers, what would you
recommend?

Thanks for any suggestions, links or pictures (hint, hint) that you may
offer.

TMT

Too_Many_Tools wrote:
By the goodness of the Great Gods of Scrouging, I have been gifted with
access to a number of bench sized ovens and furnaces that could be used
in a HSM/woodworking shop....some of which will soon grace my humble
shop space.

If you were going to setup a oven/furnace corner in your shop, what
would you want to install for a set of ovens and furnaces? How big? How
hot? Gas or electric? Ventilation needs?

For applications I can think of heat treating, drying of parts, drying
of painted parts and the occasional pizza ;)....is there any use that
I am leaving out?

If one would like to upgrade some of the controllers, what would you
recommend?

Thanks for any suggestions, links or pictures (hint, hint) that you may
offer.



I suggest you try to get manuals for them, then read them and
follow their recommendations. If you cannot find manuals specific
to the models you have, try to find some for equivalent models.

--

FF


TMT

Too_Many_Tools (in
) said:

| For applications I can think of heat treating, drying of parts,
| drying of painted parts and the occasional pizza ;)....is there
| any use that I am leaving out?

Hmm (scratching head). How about firing ceramics, working with
enamels/glazes, glasswork, making tea?

One of the furnaces in my shop is powered by a moderately hot (~6000
degrees Kelvin) remote unshielded fusion reactor. In the summertime I
use it for brewing tea. :-)

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto

Keeping welding rod dry.


snip....
For applications I can think of heat treating, drying of parts, drying
of painted parts and the occasional pizza ;)....is there any use that
I am leaving out?

73 Gary

On 20 Jan 2006 14:59:16 -0800, "Too_Many_Tools"
wrote:

By the goodness of the Great Gods of Scrouging, I have been gifted with
access to a number of bench sized ovens and furnaces that could be used
in a HSM/woodworking shop....some of which will soon grace my humble
shop space.

If you were going to setup a oven/furnace corner in your shop, what
would you want to install for a set of ovens and furnaces? How big? How
hot? Gas or electric? Ventilation needs?

For applications I can think of heat treating, drying of parts, drying
of painted parts and the occasional pizza ;)....is there any use that
I am leaving out?

If one would like to upgrade some of the controllers, what would you
recommend?

Thanks for any suggestions, links or pictures (hint, hint) that you may
offer.

TMT

Curing powdercoat on parts that the oven can accomodate.
Melting zinc and/or aluminum for small castings.

I would go electric rather than gas for ease of temperature control
including programmed temperature control for heat treat.

I'd want up to 1400F for "burnout" and calcining of investment molds.

I'd go with one of the many thermocouple PID controls that are
easily found on EBay for about $50.

"I suggest you try to get manuals for them, then read them and
follow their recommendations. If you cannot find manuals specific
to the models you have, try to find some for equivalent models. "

Good suggestion but I doubt they are around.

What temperature ranges are useful in a shop environment?

Is gas or electric more useful? Which is more controllable?

TMT

According to Morris Dovey :

[ ... ]

One of the furnaces in my shop is powered by a moderately hot (~6000
degrees Kelvin) remote unshielded fusion reactor. In the summertime I
use it for brewing tea. :-)

Hmm ... are you talking about solar energy?

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Too_Many_Tools wrote:

By the goodness of the Great Gods of Scrouging, I have been gifted with
access to a number of bench sized ovens and furnaces that could be used
in a HSM/woodworking shop....some of which will soon grace my humble
shop space.

If you were going to setup a oven/furnace corner in your shop, what
would you want to install for a set of ovens and furnaces? How big? How
hot? Gas or electric? Ventilation needs?

For applications I can think of heat treating, drying of parts, drying
of painted parts and the occasional pizza ;)....is there any use that
I am leaving out?

If one would like to upgrade some of the controllers, what would you
recommend?

Thanks for any suggestions, links or pictures (hint, hint) that you may
offer.

TMT

For heat treating you shoud have an oven that will go to at least 1800
degrees. An electric oven is the way to go. Its a lot easier to control
and has no fumes other than the ones off your parts.

John

DoN. Nichols (in
s.com) said:

| According to Morris Dovey :
|
| [ ... ]
|
|| One of the furnaces in my shop is powered by a moderately hot
|| (~6000 degrees Kelvin) remote unshielded fusion reactor. In the
|| summertime I use it for brewing tea. :-)
|
| Hmm ... are you talking about solar energy?

Darn! Did my sig give me away (again)? LOL
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto

"...and has no fumes other than the ones off your parts. "

There for a minute I thought you said "off your pants" and wondered how
you knew we had mexican for lunch today. LOL

TMT

On Fri, 20 Jan 2006 23:02:35 -0600, with neither quill nor qualm,
"Morris Dovey" quickly quoth:

DoN. Nichols (in
rs.com) said:

| According to Morris Dovey :
|
| [ ... ]
|
|| One of the furnaces in my shop is powered by a moderately hot
|| (~6000 degrees Kelvin) remote unshielded fusion reactor. In the
|| summertime I use it for brewing tea. :-)
|
| Hmm ... are you talking about solar energy?

Darn! Did my sig give me away (again)? LOL

"Summertime" + "tea" were the dead giveaways for me.

-
DANCING: The vertical frustration of a horizontal desire.
---------------------------------------------------------
http://diversify.com Full Service Web Programming

Too_Many_Tools wrote:

For applications I can think of heat treating, drying of parts, drying
of painted parts and the occasional pizza ;)....is there any use that
I am leaving out?
TMT

Basic forging and blacksmithing can be handy at times. And or course,
powdercoating.

--
Gary Brady
Austin, TX
www.powdercoatoven.4t.com

"Basic forging and blacksmithing can be handy at times. And or course,

powdercoating. "

What temperatures are we talking about here?

TMT

Maybe I should add this request....what temperatures and temperature
ranges are useful in a home shop environment?

Any ventilation issues that one needs to consider when doing certain
operations?

TMT

"Too_Many_Tools" writes:

Maybe I should add this request....what temperatures and temperature
ranges are useful in a home shop environment?

Depends entirely on what you want to do. If you go for pottery (not
uncommon in home shops) you need something above 1000 degrees Celsius,
enhancing carbon content for hardening mild steel also needs that
during several days and a controlled atmospehre, too,
soldering (some parts are soldered in Ovens) you get away with a few
100 degrees, breeding bacteria needs less than 40 degrees...


Any ventilation issues that one needs to consider when doing certain
operations?

You ought to be more specific as to what you want to do.

--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23

When I mention ventilation, I am thinking that some processes might be
better done in the open air (meaning the oven/furnace needs to be
mobile so it can be rolled out of the shop) or at least requiring a
ventilation system (thus requiring a vent to the outside and the
logistics that requires). Drying parts, freshly painted parts,
powdercoating all come to mind here.

The reason why I am focusing on temperatures and temperature ranges is
that the "solution" (the availability of good cheap ovens/furnaces) has
preceded the "requirement" (what processes/interests are common in a
home workshop environment)...which is typical of the second hand
market. Ever come up with a need for some item long after it is
gone...I have.

Good point about pottery...I had not thought of that.

Thanks

TMT

According to Morris Dovey :
DoN. Nichols (in
s.com) said:

| According to Morris Dovey :
|
| [ ... ]
|
|| One of the furnaces in my shop is powered by a moderately hot
|| (~6000 degrees Kelvin) remote unshielded fusion reactor. In the
|| summertime I use it for brewing tea. :-)
|
| Hmm ... are you talking about solar energy?

Darn! Did my sig give me away (again)? LOL

Nope! I didn't even notice that -- if it was in that article
(gone now, so I can't check).

It was just that the Sun was the nearest unshielded fusion
reactor that I know of -- and the temperature sounds about right for the
surface temperature of the Sun. And the Sun certainly counts as
"remote". :-)

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Too_Many_Tools wrote:
"Basic forging and blacksmithing can be handy at times. And or course,

powdercoating. "

What temperatures are we talking about here?

TMT

Forging and blacksmithing requires steel to be a red heat-around
1500degF, I would guess. Powdercoating is much like a kitchen oven, 375
to 450 deg, depending on the type of powder used. PC often also
requires a change in temp during the process, i.e., heat at 450 to
flowout, and then cure at 400 for 20 minutes.

--
Gary Brady
Austin, TX
www.powdercoatoven.4t.com

"Forging and blacksmithing requires steel to be a red heat-around
1500degF, I would guess. Powdercoating is much like a kitchen oven,
375
to 450 deg, depending on the type of powder used. PC often also
requires a change in temp during the process, i.e., heat at 450 to
flowout, and then cure at 400 for 20 minutes. "

Thanks Gary for responding....I've been a fan of your oven building web
site...great job!

Is there any significant ventilation issues with powdercoating? I have
not been around when it was done for my parts.

Also a question for the group....I notice that Harbor Freight now
carries a powdercoating oven...has anyone had any experience with it?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46300


TMT

I like to bake on enamel and epoxy finishes... makes 'em
nice and hard, and really does a great job with hammertone
or crackle finishes.

Use dark colors.

Too_Many_Tools wrote:

For applications I can think of heat treating, drying of parts, drying
of painted parts and the occasional pizza ;)....is there any use that
I am leaving out?

" I like to bake on enamel and epoxy finishes... makes 'em
nice and hard, and really does a great job with hammertone
or crackle finishes.

Use dark colors."

Thanks for the addition.

What temperatures do you use?

TMT

Too_Many_Tools wrote:

Is there any significant ventilation issues with powdercoating? I have
not been around when it was done for my parts.
TMT
Curing the powder puts off a significant amount of smoke. DON'T try
this in your kitchen oven. It'll never be the same. I have an old
kitchen oven in my shop for small stuff and it get stained where the
smoke comes out. The smoke isn't a problem in the shop, but the shop is
not attached to my house, and also not terribly well sealed, so I don't
worry about it. The inside of the oven does take on some of the colors
cured in it, though.

--
Gary Brady
Austin, TX
www.powdercoatoven.4t.com

I like to bake on enamel and epoxy finishes... makes 'em
nice and hard, and really does a great job with hammertone
or crackle finishes.

Please tell me more. I am about to paint a model engine and I would
really like to know how this works. Is this process benigh enough
that I can do it in my kitchen oven?

I painted one model with rusteloum paint a few years ago and
it took a long time with a heat lamp before the paint was hard.

I did some tests with newer rusteloum paint and it seems to harden
much faster. In fact it seems to be a much better paint too.

"Chuck Sherwood" wrote in message
...
I painted one model with rusteloum paint a few years ago and
it took a long time with a heat lamp before the paint was hard.

I did some tests with newer rusteloum paint and it seems to harden
much faster. In fact it seems to be a much better paint too.

Might I suggest you invest in a small appliance cup, and use a commercial
enamel (like Rustoleum) with some additional hardener. The hardener may be
had at any automotive paint supply.

Wear breathing protection, and use lots of ventilation. The hardeners are
quite toxic. But BOY do they do a nice job. The film turns as hard as
crystal, and SHINES!

I did my 8N tractor this way, and even scraping live oak limbs didn't rub
off the paint.

LLoyd

Might I suggest you invest in a small appliance cup, and use a commercial
enamel (like Rustoleum) with some additional hardener. The hardener may be
had at any automotive paint supply.


Please tell me: what is a small appliance cup? Do you mean a small
spray gun?

I assumed from the original posting that someone was using normal
paint (maybe from a spray can) and then baking it to make it harder
and more durable.

I need to paint a model Hit-and-miss engine. I want to keep it
reasonably simple. Spraying with a spray can and baking in my kitchen
oven is reasonably simple. Not sure I can use a normal spray gun
even though I do have a couple of them. If it gets too complex, I
would opt to take it to a automotive paint shop and pay them to paint it.

chuck

Chuck Sherwood wrote:
I need to paint a model Hit-and-miss engine. I want to keep it
reasonably simple. Spraying with a spray can and baking in my kitchen
oven is reasonably simple. Not sure I can use a normal spray gun
even though I do have a couple of them. If it gets too complex, I
would opt to take it to a automotive paint shop and pay them to paint it.
chuck

I didn't make the original comment about baking paint, but I've have
very good luck with baking high temperature engine enamel. Apply it,
let it dry, then bake it for an hour at 350deg. I did this once or
twice in my kitchen oven without big problems. You might want to try a
small sample to find out if it smokes excessively. The result, though,
is a very hard surfaced paint that wears well, and is heat resistant to
boot. Comes in a spray can, no need for a gun.

--
Gary Brady
Austin, TX
www.powdercoatoven.4t.com

Chuck Sherwood wrote:

Might I suggest you invest in a small appliance cup, and use a commercial
enamel (like Rustoleum) with some additional hardener. The hardener may be
had at any automotive paint supply.



Please tell me: what is a small appliance cup? Do you mean a small
spray gun?

No, that has to do with a sporting protective device for probably
meaningless small appliances.
snort,
jo4hn

According to Chuck Sherwood :

Might I suggest you invest in a small appliance cup, and use a commercial
enamel (like Rustoleum) with some additional hardener. The hardener may be
had at any automotive paint supply.


Please tell me: what is a small appliance cup? Do you mean a small
spray gun?

I'll wait for others on this, as I am slightly puzzled too.

I assumed from the original posting that someone was using normal
paint (maybe from a spray can) and then baking it to make it harder
and more durable.

I've done this with black wrinkle varnish. The baking (in my
apartment's oven all those years ago) produced two effects:

1) A much finer wrinkle pattern.

2) It got much harder much quicker. Without the baking, it took
forever for the paint to get hard. With it, as soon as it
cooled down from the oven it was quite hard.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

I've done this with black wrinkle varnish. The baking (in my
apartment's oven all those years ago) produced two effects:

I don't want my paint to wrinkle. Will a non wrinkle paint
still be smooth if its baked?

What temp did you use for baking? I typically use a little bondo
to fill the pits in the castings. I think this will limit the
max baking temp.

According to Chuck Sherwood :
I've done this with black wrinkle varnish. The baking (in my
apartment's oven all those years ago) produced two effects:

I don't want my paint to wrinkle. Will a non wrinkle paint
still be smooth if its baked?

As long as you don't bake it too hot.

It has been a long time, (this had to have happened somewhere
between 1964 and 1974, while I was in that apartment).

The wrinkle enamel was designed for the purpose. IIRC, you
sprayed a rather thick coat, let it dry for fifteen minutes (or was it
an hour), and then sprayed another coat of equal thickness -- while the
first was still quite soft. The outer coat formed a skin which wrinkled
as the underlying paint dried.

IIRC -- the rattle can had a baking temperature listed on it.

What temp did you use for baking?

Whatever the label on the rattle can suggested. This has been
at least thirty years ago. And the temperature would be different for
different paints, anyway.

I typically use a little bondo
to fill the pits in the castings. I think this will limit the
max baking temp.

If the composition of the paint does not limit it.

If the rattle can's label does not suggest any baking
temperature, go the the maker's web page and look for a FAQ file --
which *might* have that information.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

If the rattle can's label does not suggest any baking
temperature, go the the maker's web page and look for a FAQ file --
which *might* have that information.

Already tried that without any luck. I have been experimenting with
rusteloum spray cans and they seem to harden much quicker now than
then my previous experience. I suspect the formula is much different
because the directions are also quite different.

A 10,000 degree F furnace ?

Don't I wish.

I wish I had a 6000 degree Rankine (5,540 F) furnace.

Martin

Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH & Endowment Member
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



Morris Dovey wrote:
Too_Many_Tools (in
) said:

| For applications I can think of heat treating, drying of parts,
| drying of painted parts and the occasional pizza ;)....is there
| any use that I am leaving out?

Hmm (scratching head). How about firing ceramics, working with
enamels/glazes, glasswork, making tea?

One of the furnaces in my shop is powered by a moderately hot (~6000
degrees Kelvin) remote unshielded fusion reactor. In the summertime I
use it for brewing tea. :-)

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto



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