Filling in gap around punched rail
 

I am assembiling a "wrought iron" fence which I have 1/2 square stock
going through two punched railes. The picket sets flush witht the
bottom rail and extends 4 inches through the top rail. I have been
doing a decent job gaining some welding skills by welding the picket to
the underside of the bottom rails. Since the bottom of the bottom rail
is is within 2 inches of the ground I am just laying down my best weld
and grinding it down if needed. For the top rail I have been tacking
it to picket on the underside of the rail

My concern is that there the punched rail hole is slightly larger then
the picket size. Most of the picket sit really tight into the top rail
however some have a small gap around the rail, one that I think will be
too big to get filled by the paint. I dont want water to be able to
leak down into this gap. My welding skill are not to the point where I
think I can make a good looking weld around the top of the picket.
Well I can make a decent weld but because the pickets are only 4 inches
apart it is tough for me to get a grinder in there and clean them up.

Is there anything I can use to fill in this gap? In most cases I would
figure it is no bigger then a 1/16 of an inch or so. Basically it is
just outside what I think could be filled easily by paint. I thought
of using body filler but thought that was kinda lame and was wondering
if there was a better solution.

Filling in gap around punched rail
 

You can do what an idiot in this part does to cover up his blemished
welds.He fills craters and sych with JB weld or bondo and makes em
dissappear.His welds are really pityfull to say the least and his
consumption of JB and bondo probably exceeds his supply of rods. He
also makes a living at it and its only a mtter of time until he welds
up something that bites him in the ass, but for a gap like you have if
your unwilling to try and run a bead in it, JB or even bondo should
work just fine. I won;t tell if you don't and odds are no one else
will ever see or know it either.



On 17 Jan 2006 14:00:29 -0800, "
wrote:
I am assembiling a "wrought iron" fence which I have 1/2 square stock
going through two punched railes. The picket sets flush witht the
bottom rail and extends 4 inches through the top rail. I have been
doing a decent job gaining some welding skills by welding the picket to
the underside of the bottom rails. Since the bottom of the bottom rail
is is within 2 inches of the ground I am just laying down my best weld
and grinding it down if needed. For the top rail I have been tacking
it to picket on the underside of the rail

My concern is that there the punched rail hole is slightly larger then
the picket size. Most of the picket sit really tight into the top rail
however some have a small gap around the rail, one that I think will be
too big to get filled by the paint. I dont want water to be able to
leak down into this gap. My welding skill are not to the point where I
think I can make a good looking weld around the top of the picket.
Well I can make a decent weld but because the pickets are only 4 inches
apart it is tough for me to get a grinder in there and clean them up.

Is there anything I can use to fill in this gap? In most cases I would
figure it is no bigger then a 1/16 of an inch or so. Basically it is
just outside what I think could be filled easily by paint. I thought
of using body filler but thought that was kinda lame and was wondering
if there was a better solution.

--
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oooO
---------( )----Oooo----------------
\ ( ( )
\_) ) /
(_/
The original frugal ponder! Koi-ahoi mates....

Filling in gap around punched rail
 

In article . com,
says...


My concern is that there the punched rail hole is slightly larger then
the picket size. Most of the picket sit really tight into the top rail
however some have a small gap around the rail, one that I think will be
too big to get filled by the paint. I dont want water to be able to
leak down into this gap. My welding skill are not to the point where I
think I can make a good looking weld around the top of the picket.
Well I can make a decent weld but because the pickets are only 4 inches
apart it is tough for me to get a grinder in there and clean them up.


The last thing you want is a crevice where water will stand. IMO you'd
be better off with a gap big enough for the water to run thru rather
than a filler that at some point is going to seperate from the steel. If
you don't feel confident sealing the joint with a good weld, leave the
gaps open.

Ned Simmons

Filling in gap around punched rail
 

Is brazing an option for you? It's a little more forgiving
appearance-wise that welding. Just my thoughts.
Bill.

Filling in gap around punched rail
 

How is it that the punched holes in the top rail don't fit closely, and the
bottom ones do (fit)? The weld you are making on the bottom side could be
leaving you vulnerable to the same problem you are worried about on top.

If you really don't have a problem with gaps in the fit on the bottom rail,
then I have an idea, but it may be too late if the rail is already assembled
and welded. I was going to suggest that you smear black roofing cement in
the top joint, and weld only the bottom joint. If you are planning on doing
any more lengths of railing, you might consider this.

Filling in gap around punched rail
 

On one job where a full length seal weld would warp the frame we used a
paintable silicon caulking. Any quality paintable caulking should do the
trick. Some are rated for 20 years plus in outdoor conditions.
If water collects in a crack it will bleed rust marks in the future.
Randy

wrote in message
ups.com...
I am assembiling a "wrought iron" fence which I have 1/2 square stock
going through two punched railes. The picket sets flush witht the
bottom rail and extends 4 inches through the top rail. I have been
doing a decent job gaining some welding skills by welding the picket to
the underside of the bottom rails. Since the bottom of the bottom rail
is is within 2 inches of the ground I am just laying down my best weld
and grinding it down if needed. For the top rail I have been tacking
it to picket on the underside of the rail

My concern is that there the punched rail hole is slightly larger then
the picket size. Most of the picket sit really tight into the top rail
however some have a small gap around the rail, one that I think will be
too big to get filled by the paint. I dont want water to be able to
leak down into this gap. My welding skill are not to the point where I
think I can make a good looking weld around the top of the picket.
Well I can make a decent weld but because the pickets are only 4 inches
apart it is tough for me to get a grinder in there and clean them up.

Is there anything I can use to fill in this gap? In most cases I would
figure it is no bigger then a 1/16 of an inch or so. Basically it is
just outside what I think could be filled easily by paint. I thought
of using body filler but thought that was kinda lame and was wondering
if there was a better solution.

Filling in gap around punched rail
 

leo's comments are correct. though i was able to put down a decent
weld on underside of the bottom rails i still have to worry about
water coming in from the top of the underside rail. in some cases i
need to worry more so as if water gets into the bottom rail it has no
way to drain out.

hmm roofing cement. is that paintable? since this is not painted yet
i was thinking the bondo or jb weld would hold the paint better.


Leo Lichtman wrote:
How is it that the punched holes in the top rail don't fit closely, and the
bottom ones do (fit)? The weld you are making on the bottom side could be
leaving you vulnerable to the same problem you are worried about on top.

If you really don't have a problem with gaps in the fit on the bottom rail,
then I have an idea, but it may be too late if the rail is already assembled
and welded. I was going to suggest that you smear black roofing cement in
the top joint, and weld only the bottom joint. If you are planning on doing
any more lengths of railing, you might consider this.

Filling in gap around punched rail
 

Ditto! It's better to leave the gap open to drain. There are fences of
this type that have been up for over a hundred years that haven't
seriously rusted.
Bugs