Air Tank Drainage
 

Retired my old portable air tank -- heard a fizzing sound in the shop
and found a rust blister on the bottom at the lowest point. I am not
the sort who can discard something metal due to an expiration date, so
I wonder if I shouldn't re-orient the next tank to put the air inlet at
the lowest point?

Air Tank Drainage
 

Just put a drain there, and use it?
If you put the air outlet, the moisture will be transferred to your
tires or whatever. Normally not a Good Thing (tm M Stewart)

- -
Rex B

Dave wrote:
Retired my old portable air tank -- heard a fizzing sound in the shop
and found a rust blister on the bottom at the lowest point. I am not
the sort who can discard something metal due to an expiration date, so
I wonder if I shouldn't re-orient the next tank to put the air inlet at
the lowest point?

Air Tank Drainage
 

"Dave" wrote in message
ups.com...
Retired my old portable air tank -- heard a fizzing sound in the shop
and found a rust blister on the bottom at the lowest point. I am not
the sort who can discard something metal due to an expiration date, so
I wonder if I shouldn't re-orient the next tank to put the air inlet at
the lowest point?


Any particular reason?

Harold

Air Tank Drainage
 

Dave wrote:
Retired my old portable air tank -- heard a fizzing sound in the shop
and found a rust blister on the bottom at the lowest point. I am not
the sort who can discard something metal due to an expiration date, so
I wonder if I shouldn't re-orient the next tank to put the air inlet at
the lowest point?


I'm not one of those sky-is-falling types, but if you know your tank has rusted
to the point air is beginning to audibly escape, can a catastrophic failure be
far behind? I hate to say this, but I recommend replacing the air tank. Make it
into a forge or a garbage can or something, but don't use it for compressed air
anymore.

That's my 2¢ worth, anyway.

GWE

Air Tank Drainage
 

Grant Erwin wrote:
Dave wrote:

Retired my old portable air tank -- heard a fizzing sound in the shop
and found a rust blister on the bottom at the lowest point. I am not
the sort who can discard something metal due to an expiration date, so
I wonder if I shouldn't re-orient the next tank to put the air inlet at
the lowest point?


I'm not one of those sky-is-falling types, but if you know your tank has
rusted to the point air is beginning to audibly escape, can a
catastrophic failure be far behind? I hate to say this, but I recommend
replacing the air tank. Make it into a forge or a garbage can or
something, but don't use it for compressed air anymore.

Grant, read the first line: "Retired my old partable air tank"
Last line too "...re-orient the NEXT tank" (emphasis added)

I think he knows better :)

Air Tank Drainage
 

"Dave" wrote: clip) I wonder if I shouldn't re-orient the next tank to put
the air inlet at the lowest point?
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I think you should rotate your new tank a few degrees every month, so it
rusts out uniformly.

Air Tank Drainage
 

In article
,
"Leo Lichtman" wrote:

"Dave" wrote: clip) I wonder if I shouldn't re-orient the next tank to put
the air inlet at the lowest point?
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I think you should rotate your new tank a few degrees every month, so it
rusts out uniformly.



That's what I have been doing with my farm gasoline tank, rotating it
each time it empties before I refill it. 25 years later, no leaks yet.

--
Free men own guns, slaves don't
www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/5357/

Air Tank Drainage
 

I found a time delay relay at the scrap yard. It is hooked up to trigger
a valve at the bottom of my compressor tank so it opens for a fraction
of a second each time the motor kicks in. Blasts the moisture out great,
I haven't noticed any moisture in my lines even when hot and humid out
(it gets real humid in Maine at times). The one drawback is that in cold
weather the air exiting the valve can leave a little ice in there,
causing a slow leak.

Steve

Dave wrote:

Retired my old portable air tank -- heard a fizzing sound in the shop
and found a rust blister on the bottom at the lowest point. I am not
the sort who can discard something metal due to an expiration date, so
I wonder if I shouldn't re-orient the next tank to put the air inlet at
the lowest point?

Air Tank Drainage
 

On 27 Oct 2005 10:47:33 -0700, "Dave" wrote:

Retired my old portable air tank -- heard a fizzing sound in the shop
and found a rust blister on the bottom at the lowest point. I am not
the sort who can discard something metal due to an expiration date, so
I wonder if I shouldn't re-orient the next tank to put the air inlet at
the lowest point?

Putting the air inlet at the bottom does nothing while you are
filling it, only when you want to drain out the accumulated water.

Fill the portable tank, rotate it till the air outlet fitting is at
the lowest point (keeping the outlet hose high so the water doesn't
flow that way) and vent the fill port tire chuck for a few seconds to
drain any moisture, then rotate it upright and top off the air again.

When you use the air you want the valve at the top, you don't want
to pass the water along to your tires or other equipment.

-- Bruce --

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

Air Tank Drainage
 

Bruce L. Bergman wrote:
"Dave" wrote:

Retired my old portable air tank -- heard a fizzing sound in the shop
and found a rust blister on the bottom at the lowest point. I am not
the sort who can discard something metal due to an expiration date, so
I wonder if I shouldn't re-orient the next tank to put the air inlet
at the lowest point?

Putting the air inlet at the bottom does nothing while you are
filling it, only when you want to drain out the accumulated water.

Fill the portable tank, rotate it till the air outlet fitting is at
the lowest point (keeping the outlet hose high so the water doesn't
flow that way) and vent the fill port tire chuck for a few seconds to
drain any moisture, then rotate it upright and top off the air again.

When you use the air you want the valve at the top, you don't want
to pass the water along to your tires or other equipment.

I guess my thought was that this would give you some good options. Some
sort of external water collection chamber could be added at the
fitting, or the water could be blown out at the first useage after
filling.

Air Tank Drainage
 

On 29 Oct 2005 14:58:56 -0700, "Dave" wrote:
Bruce L. Bergman wrote:
"Dave" wrote:

Retired my old portable air tank -- heard a fizzing sound in the shop
and found a rust blister on the bottom at the lowest point. I am not
the sort who can discard something metal due to an expiration date, so
I wonder if I shouldn't re-orient the next tank to put the air inlet
at the lowest point?

Putting the air inlet at the bottom does nothing while you are
filling it, only when you want to drain out the accumulated water.

Fill the portable tank, rotate it till the air outlet fitting is at
the lowest point (keeping the outlet hose high so the water doesn't
flow that way) and vent the fill port tire chuck for a few seconds to
drain any moisture, then rotate it upright and top off the air again.

When you use the air you want the valve at the top, you don't want
to pass the water along to your tires or other equipment.

I guess my thought was that this would give you some good options. Some
sort of external water collection chamber could be added at the
fitting, or the water could be blown out at the first useage after
filling.

They really should put a dedicated drain valve and fitting on those
portable tanks, but then their tank would cost $1 more than the
competition and their sales would drop. Or so says the MBA that took
over the company when the people with practical knowledge got forced
out.

Show me how it's better, and I'll pay a bit more for your product.

-- Bruce --

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.