The rust removal question gets beaten around here periodically but I
have a variation on the theme. I'm wondering if any of you guys have
some experience that may be useful.

I'm restoring a Coleman lantern. Great exterior, but the inside of
the font (tank) is lightly rusted. The guys in the Coleman group
typically put a bunch of nuts or BB's in, shake till you can't stand
it any more, and then blow it out with compressed air. Gets rid of
the rust but the metal's just waiting to rust again.

I'm looking for an easier way to remove the rust and then a more
permanent fix to prevent its return.

If I used auto body metal prep (phosphoric acid) would that kill the
rust so that it wouldn't come back, or does it just etch the metal so
that paint adheres better?

The tank is pressure tight, but I was wondering if one of the gasoline
tank sealers might be a good coating to line the font / tank with so
that the air can't get to the metal and make it rust again.


******* Recreate gaps in email address to reply *******

Go to a general-purpose motorcycle store and buy a 2-part coating that you use
to line the inside of old motorcycle gas tanks. They should work well for this
too, very similar application. - GWE

RWL wrote:
The rust removal question gets beaten around here periodically but I
have a variation on the theme. I'm wondering if any of you guys have
some experience that may be useful.

I'm restoring a Coleman lantern. Great exterior, but the inside of
the font (tank) is lightly rusted. The guys in the Coleman group
typically put a bunch of nuts or BB's in, shake till you can't stand
it any more, and then blow it out with compressed air. Gets rid of
the rust but the metal's just waiting to rust again.

I'm looking for an easier way to remove the rust and then a more
permanent fix to prevent its return.

If I used auto body metal prep (phosphoric acid) would that kill the
rust so that it wouldn't come back, or does it just etch the metal so
that paint adheres better?

The tank is pressure tight, but I was wondering if one of the gasoline
tank sealers might be a good coating to line the font / tank with so
that the air can't get to the metal and make it rust again.


******* Recreate gaps in email address to reply *******

RWL wrote:
The rust removal question gets beaten around here periodically but I
have a variation on the theme. I'm wondering if any of you guys have
some experience that may be useful.

I'm restoring a Coleman lantern. Great exterior, but the inside of
the font (tank) is lightly rusted. The guys in the Coleman group
typically put a bunch of nuts or BB's in, shake till you can't stand
it any more, and then blow it out with compressed air. Gets rid of
the rust but the metal's just waiting to rust again.

I'm looking for an easier way to remove the rust and then a more
permanent fix to prevent its return.

If I used auto body metal prep (phosphoric acid) would that kill the
rust so that it wouldn't come back, or does it just etch the metal so
that paint adheres better?

The tank is pressure tight, but I was wondering if one of the gasoline
tank sealers might be a good coating to line the font / tank with so
that the air can't get to the metal and make it rust again.


******* Recreate gaps in email address to reply *******

I've used the Kreem brand and am happy with it on motorcycle tanks. The
phosphoric removes the rust, and I'm sure etches the metal, but the
metal would rust again without the coating. This probably doesn't apply
to your situation, but sometimes the tank is coated with varnish
(petrified gasoline) that looks a bit like rust but but can be washed
out with acetone.

Gary Brady
Austin, TX

I'm restoring a Coleman lantern. Great exterior, but the inside of
the font (tank) is lightly rusted.

I'm looking for an easier way to remove the rust and then a more
permanent fix to prevent its return.




I've used the Kreem brand and am happy with it on motorcycle tanks. The
phosphoric removes the rust, and I'm sure etches the metal, but the
metal would rust again without the coating. This probably doesn't apply
to your situation, but sometimes the tank is coated with varnish
(petrified gasoline) that looks a bit like rust but but can be washed
out with acetone.


Hmm. I've got some acetone in the shop. I wonder........
Thanks to both you and Grant on the suggestion of stopping at a
motorcycle shop.

RWL

******* Recreate gaps in email address to reply *******

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
| Go to a general-purpose motorcycle store and buy a 2-part coating that you
use
| to line the inside of old motorcycle gas tanks. They should work well for
this
| too, very similar application. - GWE
|

I don't recall what's in Coleman fuel, but alcohol and most gas tank
sealers are a very bad combination.

It's naphtha if I remember correctly. Don't know if there are additives.
Karl

"carl mciver" wrote in message
ink.net...
"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
| Go to a general-purpose motorcycle store and buy a 2-part coating that
you
use
| to line the inside of old motorcycle gas tanks. They should work well
for
this
| too, very similar application. - GWE
|

I don't recall what's in Coleman fuel, but alcohol and most gas tank
sealers are a very bad combination.

"carl mciver" wrote in message
ink.net...
"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
| Go to a general-purpose motorcycle store and buy a 2-part coating that
| you use to line the inside of old motorcycle gas tanks. They should
| work well for this too, very similar application. - GWE

I don't recall what's in Coleman fuel, but alcohol and most gas tank
sealers are a very bad combination.

Coleman Fuel is a petroleum hydrocarbon naphtha. It was a substitute for
early "white gas" (gasoline with no tetraethyl lead or other additives). It
is
completely alcohol-free.

- Michael

Yep the stuff sold for fixing motor cycle gas tanks works wonders even
if the tank has pin holes........I have used it on numerous small
engine gas tanks and no doubt that it would do a great job on that
coleman lantern.

On Sun, 02 Oct 2005 17:32:10 -0400, RWL GeoLane_NOSPAM_
@evenlink.com wrote:

===
===The rust removal question gets beaten around here periodically but I
===have a variation on the theme. I'm wondering if any of you guys have
===some experience that may be useful.
===
===I'm restoring a Coleman lantern. Great exterior, but the inside of
===the font (tank) is lightly rusted. The guys in the Coleman group
===typically put a bunch of nuts or BB's in, shake till you can't stand
===it any more, and then blow it out with compressed air. Gets rid of
===the rust but the metal's just waiting to rust again.
===
===I'm looking for an easier way to remove the rust and then a more
===permanent fix to prevent its return.
===
===If I used auto body metal prep (phosphoric acid) would that kill the
===rust so that it wouldn't come back, or does it just etch the metal so
===that paint adheres better?
===
===The tank is pressure tight, but I was wondering if one of the gasoline
===tank sealers might be a good coating to line the font / tank with so
===that the air can't get to the metal and make it rust again.
===
===
===******* Recreate gaps in email address to reply *******


==============================================
Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked!
"The original frugal ponder"
~~~~ }((((o ~~~~~~ }{{{{o ~~~~~~~ }(((((o

On Mon, 03 Oct 2005 14:28:52 GMT, (~Roy)
wrote:

Yep the stuff sold for fixing motor cycle gas tanks works wonders even
if the tank has pin holes........I have used it on numerous small
engine gas tanks and no doubt that it would do a great job on that
coleman lantern.

I'd still find the rusty spots in the lantern fount and weld or
braze them up structurally before applying Kreem tank coating to stop
the rust - motorcycle tanks run at atmospheric or a slight vacuum, but
you pump that fount up to 10 to 20 PSI or so.

Having a pinhole in the fount suddenly pop it's sealing film of
Kreem and spraying out a mist of white gasoline with a burning mantle
just above it doesn't sound like the safest thing in the world to be
/anywhere/ near...

-- Bruce --

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

On Mon, 03 Oct 2005 21:06:42 GMT, Bruce L. Bergman
wrote:

On Mon, 03 Oct 2005 14:28:52 GMT, (~Roy)
wrote:

Yep the stuff sold for fixing motor cycle gas tanks works wonders even
if the tank has pin holes........I have used it on numerous small
engine gas tanks and no doubt that it would do a great job on that
coleman lantern.

I'd still find the rusty spots in the lantern fount and weld or
braze them up structurally before applying Kreem tank coating to stop
the rust - motorcycle tanks run at atmospheric or a slight vacuum, but
you pump that fount up to 10 to 20 PSI or so.

Having a pinhole in the fount suddenly pop it's sealing film of
Kreem and spraying out a mist of white gasoline with a burning mantle
just above it doesn't sound like the safest thing in the world to be
/anywhere/ near...

It holds pressure fine. There are no pin holes. It's only light
surface rust, but once it's started, even if you clean it off, it will
be back. I thought I'd give it a more permanent fix with the Kreem.

RWL


******* Recreate gaps in email address to reply *******

Coleman is very pure white gas. We burn white gas now (no lead) but we have tons of
junk stuff to boost the low octane gas to a higher octane. Once real gas with real Octane,
but now junker gas with boosters.

The world wide Model airplane distance flight was done with this very clean burning fuel.

Martin

Martin
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



carl mciver wrote:
"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
| Go to a general-purpose motorcycle store and buy a 2-part coating that you
use
| to line the inside of old motorcycle gas tanks. They should work well for
this
| too, very similar application. - GWE
|

I don't recall what's in Coleman fuel, but alcohol and most gas tank
sealers are a very bad combination.


----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
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The gas tank sealer might be the best solution. However if you use
phosphoric acid on zinc, the zinc gets eaten by the acid. Then if you
use that on steel or iron, you get a zinc phosphate coating on the
steel/iron. This helps to stop it from rusting again.

Dan
RWL wrote:

If I used auto body metal prep (phosphoric acid) would that kill the
rust so that it wouldn't come back, or does it just etch the metal so
that paint adheres better?



******* Recreate gaps in email address to reply *******

after cleaning with phosphoric acid, use sloshing compound to seal it - many
sellers of this kind of stuff advertrize in Hemmings Motor News and other
similar venues. Also Aircraft FBOs
wrote in message
oups.com...
The gas tank sealer might be the best solution. However if you use
phosphoric acid on zinc, the zinc gets eaten by the acid. Then if you
use that on steel or iron, you get a zinc phosphate coating on the
steel/iron. This helps to stop it from rusting again.

Dan
RWL wrote:

If I used auto body metal prep (phosphoric acid) would that kill the
rust so that it wouldn't come back, or does it just etch the metal so
that paint adheres better?



******* Recreate gaps in email address to reply *******

replying to ~Roy, bloomernooney wrote:
It is going to seal up your check valve also right? Ye no maybe haven'thought
it through? Not referring to you but there is a lot of ignorance out there.
Heard some ppl. Out there insisting that citric acid solution is inferior to a
product called evapo rust; these same ppl pronounce that evapo rust works by
chelation, and presumably citric acid is the inferior derivative to their
beloved evapo rust lol! Cheers

--
for full context, visit https://www.polytechforum.com/metalw...er-443386-.htm