quick/dirty clamping of vertical rod in tube?
 

I've seen blacksmiths make forge stock stands using a trick: the stand's
vertical member is a tube (e.g. 1/2" pipe) and the vertically adjusting member
is a rod (e.g. 1/2" round bar) which slides in the pipe. The top of the pipe is
cut at an angle and there is a washer slipped over the pipe. As you lift the
pipe, the washer rattles down, but when you let go of the pipe the washer is
forced to an angle and binds on the pipe. When you get it where you want it,
then (and only then) does the user tighten the threaded T-handle clamp on the side.

My question is, does anyone know how to design this angled washer setup? How
angled should it be? How much bigger than the vertical rod should the hole in
the washer be?

Grant Erwin -- trying to not reinvent the wheel

In article , Grant Erwin says...

My question is, does anyone know how to design this angled washer setup?

Interesting idea.

I would first say to bore the hole in the washer so it has sharp
corners. That would help it to bite into the vertical rod.

Jim


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On Sun, 18 Sep 2005 12:08:16 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote:

I've seen blacksmiths make forge stock stands using a trick: the stand's
vertical member is a tube (e.g. 1/2" pipe) and the vertically adjusting member
is a rod (e.g. 1/2" round bar) which slides in the pipe. The top of the pipe is
cut at an angle and there is a washer slipped over the pipe. As you lift the
pipe, the washer rattles down, but when you let go of the pipe the washer is
forced to an angle and binds on the pipe. When you get it where you want it,
then (and only then) does the user tighten the threaded T-handle clamp on the side.

My question is, does anyone know how to design this angled washer setup? How
angled should it be? How much bigger than the vertical rod should the hole in
the washer be?

Grant Erwin -- trying to not reinvent the wheel

Nope, but some things are apparent. The angle on the end of the pipe
must be greater than the angle which causes the washer to hang. It
would seem that the washer would need relatively sharp edges on the
i.d

I'd think you could make one most easily by trying larger washers to
see which ones bind on the rod at an acceptable angle. You could do
this in the hardware store. Once you have the washer and rod, the
rest should be straightforward.

I just went outside to test this idea. 1/2" rod will hang in a 1/2"
flat washer at about 30 deg. Sharper edges would help. I don't have
any 5/8" washers to try.

Good luck. Post pictures.

Pete Keillor

Pete Keillor wrote:

On Sun, 18 Sep 2005 12:08:16 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote:

I've seen blacksmiths make forge stock stands using a trick: the stand's
vertical member is a tube (e.g. 1/2" pipe) and the vertically adjusting member
is a rod (e.g. 1/2" round bar) which slides in the pipe. The top of the pipe is
cut at an angle and there is a washer slipped over the pipe. As you lift the
pipe, the washer rattles down, but when you let go of the pipe the washer is
forced to an angle and binds on the pipe. When you get it where you want it,
then (and only then) does the user tighten the threaded T-handle clamp on the side.

My question is, does anyone know how to design this angled washer setup? How
angled should it be? How much bigger than the vertical rod should the hole in
the washer be?

Grant Erwin -- trying to not reinvent the wheel

Nope, but some things are apparent. The angle on the end of the pipe
must be greater than the angle which causes the washer to hang. It
would seem that the washer would need relatively sharp edges on the
i.d

Not unlike the jack supplied with the VW bug. (or my caulking gun)



I'd think you could make one most easily by trying larger washers to
see which ones bind on the rod at an acceptable angle. You could do
this in the hardware store. Once you have the washer and rod, the
rest should be straightforward.

I just went outside to test this idea. 1/2" rod will hang in a 1/2"
flat washer at about 30 deg. Sharper edges would help. I don't have
any 5/8" washers to try.

Good luck. Post pictures.

Pete Keillor

On Sun, 18 Sep 2005 12:08:16 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote:

I've seen blacksmiths make forge stock stands using a trick: the stand's
vertical member is a tube (e.g. 1/2" pipe) and the vertically adjusting member
is a rod (e.g. 1/2" round bar) which slides in the pipe. The top of the pipe is
cut at an angle and there is a washer slipped over the pipe. As you lift the
pipe, the washer rattles down, but when you let go of the pipe the washer is
forced to an angle and binds on the pipe. When you get it where you want it,
then (and only then) does the user tighten the threaded T-handle clamp on the side.

My question is, does anyone know how to design this angled washer setup? How
angled should it be? How much bigger than the vertical rod should the hole in
the washer be?

Grant Erwin -- trying to not reinvent the wheel

Look at your screen door closer. The thing that holds the door open
works like this.

The jack supplied with VW beetles also worked this way.

This is an easy one. Go to the hardware store with your calipers. Look at
the pipe clamps. They use exactly this type of set up.

--

__
Roger Shoaf

Important factors in selecting a mate:
1] Depth of gene pool
2] Position on the food chain.



"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
I've seen blacksmiths make forge stock stands using a trick: the stand's
vertical member is a tube (e.g. 1/2" pipe) and the vertically adjusting
member
is a rod (e.g. 1/2" round bar) which slides in the pipe. The top of the
pipe is
cut at an angle and there is a washer slipped over the pipe. As you lift
the
pipe, the washer rattles down, but when you let go of the pipe the washer
is
forced to an angle and binds on the pipe. When you get it where you want
it,
then (and only then) does the user tighten the threaded T-handle clamp on
the side.

My question is, does anyone know how to design this angled washer setup?
How
angled should it be? How much bigger than the vertical rod should the hole
in
the washer be?

Grant Erwin -- trying to not reinvent the wheel

Seems to me, the bottom of the inside washer edge and the top inside washer edge on the
other side are the two pipe touch points.

Touch points = pipe diameter
Then the triangle generated by the thickness of the washer should determine the angle.
I suspect the pipe is cut at this angle or more so this angle is attained.

Martin
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



Grant Erwin wrote:
I've seen blacksmiths make forge stock stands using a trick: the stand's
vertical member is a tube (e.g. 1/2" pipe) and the vertically adjusting
member is a rod (e.g. 1/2" round bar) which slides in the pipe. The top
of the pipe is cut at an angle and there is a washer slipped over the
pipe. As you lift the pipe, the washer rattles down, but when you let go
of the pipe the washer is forced to an angle and binds on the pipe. When
you get it where you want it, then (and only then) does the user tighten
the threaded T-handle clamp on the side.

My question is, does anyone know how to design this angled washer setup?
How angled should it be? How much bigger than the vertical rod should
the hole in the washer be?

Grant Erwin -- trying to not reinvent the wheel

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