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| Metalworking (rec.crafts.metalworking) Discuss various aspects of working with metal, such as machining, welding, metal joining, screwing, casting, hardening/tempering, blacksmithing/forging, spinning and hammer work, sheet metal work. |
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#1
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4X6 Bandsaw Speed Ctl Photos in Dropbox
Following are photos of the cutting speed control for my copy of the
ubiquitous 4"x6" bandsaw. I thought about and discarded the idea of building a bracket to compress the cylinder on the cutting stroke. This would give the advantage of moving more fluid for the same distance, but would require a lot more work. Instead, I decided to slightly reduce the thickness of the spring mount to accept the cylinder yoke, then made a shoulder pin for the rear yoke, to mount through an existing hole which I enlarged slightly and counterbored to accept the pin. The reservoir is a 4 oz. model airplane fuel tank. The reservoir mount is just scrap steel drilled, bent, and painted. The pictures are as follows: http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl01.jpg http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl02.jpg http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl03.jpg http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl04.jpg http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl05.jpg http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl06.jpg http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl07.jpg Pete Keillor |
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#2
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Somehow you got front/backslashes mixed up in your URLs. Try
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/SawSpdCtl01.JPG etc. It looks like you speed control both ways, i.e. like you have to open your needle valve wide open just to lift it back up. Is that right? Interesting simplification of the normal design which has 2 legs, one with a check valve. Where'd you get that nifty little cylinder? GWE Pete Keillor wrote: Following are photos of the cutting speed control for my copy of the ubiquitous 4"x6" bandsaw. I thought about and discarded the idea of building a bracket to compress the cylinder on the cutting stroke. This would give the advantage of moving more fluid for the same distance, but would require a lot more work. Instead, I decided to slightly reduce the thickness of the spring mount to accept the cylinder yoke, then made a shoulder pin for the rear yoke, to mount through an existing hole which I enlarged slightly and counterbored to accept the pin. The reservoir is a 4 oz. model airplane fuel tank. The reservoir mount is just scrap steel drilled, bent, and painted. The pictures are as follows: http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl01.jpg http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl02.jpg http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl03.jpg http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl04.jpg http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl05.jpg http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl06.jpg http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl07.jpg Pete Keillor |
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#3
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On Sat, 17 Sep 2005 18:24:22 -0700, Grant Erwin
wrote: Somehow you got front/backslashes mixed up in your URLs. Try http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/SawSpdCtl01.JPG etc. It looks like you speed control both ways, i.e. like you have to open your needle valve wide open just to lift it back up. Is that right? Interesting simplification of the normal design which has 2 legs, one with a check valve. Where'd you get that nifty little cylinder? GWE Nope, that's a hydraulic speed control valve, which is exactly as you described, a needle valve and check valve in parallel, only in one housing. I think the cylinder and valve came from www.surpluscenter.com/. I've had them awhile, waiting for the round tuit. Pete Pete Keillor wrote: Following are photos of the cutting speed control for my copy of the ubiquitous 4"x6" bandsaw. I thought about and discarded the idea of building a bracket to compress the cylinder on the cutting stroke. This would give the advantage of moving more fluid for the same distance, but would require a lot more work. Instead, I decided to slightly reduce the thickness of the spring mount to accept the cylinder yoke, then made a shoulder pin for the rear yoke, to mount through an existing hole which I enlarged slightly and counterbored to accept the pin. The reservoir is a 4 oz. model airplane fuel tank. The reservoir mount is just scrap steel drilled, bent, and painted. The pictures are as follows: http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl01.jpg http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl02.jpg http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl03.jpg http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl04.jpg http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl05.jpg http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl06.jpg http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl07.jpg Pete Keillor |
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#4
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So this (and other bandsaw mods) begs the question: are there recommended
feeds for a bandsaw cutting specific materials? IOW, can one take the mod that you (and other who have done similar mods) made and equate it to a feed rate? Should I quit writing and go look in my Machinery Handbook? Peter "Pete Keillor" wrote in message ... Following are photos of the cutting speed control for my copy of the ubiquitous 4"x6" bandsaw. I thought about and discarded the idea of building a bracket to compress the cylinder on the cutting stroke. This would give the advantage of moving more fluid for the same distance, but would require a lot more work. Instead, I decided to slightly reduce the thickness of the spring mount to accept the cylinder yoke, then made a shoulder pin for the rear yoke, to mount through an existing hole which I enlarged slightly and counterbored to accept the pin. The reservoir is a 4 oz. model airplane fuel tank. The reservoir mount is just scrap steel drilled, bent, and painted. The pictures are as follows: http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl01.jpg http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl02.jpg http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl03.jpg http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl04.jpg http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl05.jpg http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl06.jpg http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl07.jpg Pete Keillor |
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#5
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On Sun, 18 Sep 2005 01:26:37 GMT, "Peter Grey"
wrote: So this (and other bandsaw mods) begs the question: are there recommended feeds for a bandsaw cutting specific materials? IOW, can one take the mod that you (and other who have done similar mods) made and equate it to a feed rate? Should I quit writing and go look in my Machinery Handbook? Peter For steel, I use pulley #2, and 9 on the needle valve. G Gunner "Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire. Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us) off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give them self determination under "play nice" rules. Think of it as having your older brother knock the **** out of you for torturing the cat." Gunner |
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#6
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On Sat, 17 Sep 2005 21:14:44 -0400, Pete Keillor
wrote: Following are photos of the cutting speed control for my copy of the Pete: Nice crisp photos! They so a good job of illustrating the parts. Errol Groff Instructor, Machine Tool Department H.H. Ellis Technical High School 643 Upper Maple Street Danielson, CT 06239 New England Model Engineering Society www.neme-s.org |
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#7
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According to Pete Keillor :
Following are photos of the cutting speed control for my copy of the ubiquitous 4"x6" bandsaw. I thought about and discarded the idea of [ ... ] The pictures are as follows: http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl01.jpg http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl02.jpg http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl03.jpg http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl04.jpg http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl05.jpg http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl06.jpg http://www.metalworking.com\dropbox\SawSpdCtl07.jpg A minor problem there. You have '\' as the later dividers in the URLs, when they all should be '/'. Some Windows browsers let you get away with that, but it is non-standard HTML, and won't work on all systems. Certainly "wget" on my unix boxen barfs. Nice photos, once that is corrected. Which shaper is that which you are using? I don't believe that it is the 7" Rockwell/Delta/AMMCO one which I have, because your table appears to have real T-slots. Enjoy, DoN. -- Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564 (too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html --- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero --- |
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#8
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On Sat, 17 Sep 2005 21:26:07 -0400, Pete Keillor wrote:
Nope, that's a hydraulic speed control valve, which is exactly as you described, a needle valve and check valve in parallel, only in one housing. Yup, metered in one direction and full flow in the other. Does your valve have the numbered calibration marks, and have you worked out a feed chart yet? I once bought a Starret blade for my BS and the package had feed rate suggestions on it. Not much use with the spring operated feed mechanism. Ditto on what some folks have said about the back-slashes in your dropbox links. Gotta use forward-slashes. I think the cylinder and valve came from www.surpluscenter.com/. I've had them awhile, waiting for the round tuit. I'd really like to mod my saw as you have but I haven't had any luck finding an appropriate cylinder yet. Seems to be a common problem. Very nice job though. |
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#10
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You know, I'll be g*d d**ned. I made up a saw hydraulic downfeed control and I
used one of those Parker flow control valves and I *never knew* it had an integral check valve. Funny, too, because the external check valve I plumbed in leaks real bad and I was about to start searching for a replacement. Here's a pic of how I did it: http://www.tinyisland.com/images/downfeed.pdf I just ripped out the (external) check valve and plugged that branch, and it still works fine, i.e. lifts up without restriction. Only thing I can't do now that I used to be able to do is to flip off the shutoff lever, and lift the saw to exactly where I wanted it and it would stay put. All with one hand. Now I have to lift it to where I want it and hold it there while flipping the shutoff lever. Just a little less convenient, but many fewer joints, and the main leak is gone! I sure feel dumb because I never knew what a flow control valve was until tonight, but better late than never! The flow control valve I have in the picture is a Parker F400B. I scrounged two of them one time when I was down at Triangle Machinery in San Jose. I just checked and these suckers cost over $26 at Grainger right now. Wow. Grant Pete Keillor wrote: On Sat, 17 Sep 2005 18:24:22 -0700, Grant Erwin wrote: Somehow you got front/backslashes mixed up in your URLs. Try http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/SawSpdCtl01.JPG etc. It looks like you speed control both ways, i.e. like you have to open your needle valve wide open just to lift it back up. Is that right? Interesting simplification of the normal design which has 2 legs, one with a check valve. Where'd you get that nifty little cylinder? GWE Nope, that's a hydraulic speed control valve, which is exactly as you described, a needle valve and check valve in parallel, only in one housing. I think the cylinder and valve came from www.surpluscenter.com/. I've had them awhile, waiting for the round tuit. Pete |
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