Connecting grinder to 220V line?
 

I am pulling a new 220V line from a power box for my new belt grinder (20Amp 115/220V).
Wiring is inside my garage and 8 gauge wires go through conduit. San Francisco code
requires 4 poles for 220V appliances so I am using four wired inside conduit.
My question is how to wire switch and motor to four wires.
Motor wiring has 6 wires but instruction says that 3 wires go to one pole and 3 other to
another. What about ground and neutral?

Is there any good on line DIY manual for this kind of work.

BTW I am going to have a lichened electrician to inspect my work before attempting to
connect.

Thanks,
Alex

Alex wrote:
I am pulling a new 220V line from a power box for my new belt grinder
(20Amp 115/220V). Wiring is inside my garage and 8 gauge wires go
through conduit. San Francisco code requires 4 poles for 220V appliances
so I am using four wired inside conduit.
My question is how to wire switch and motor to four wires.
Motor wiring has 6 wires but instruction says that 3 wires go to one
pole and 3 other to another. What about ground and neutral?

Is there any good on line DIY manual for this kind of work.

4 poles would go to a dryer outlet, which has L1, L2, N, G

L1: first 220V line
L2: second 220V line
N: neutral -- voltage L1-N or L2-N is 120V
G: ground

I would never go to the expense of running 4 wires when you only need 3. Nor do
I believe that San Francisco code actually requires it, but there are amazing
things in California laws. Your motor will use L1, L2 and G, of course.

GWE

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
Alex wrote:
I am pulling a new 220V line from a power box for my new belt grinder
(20Amp 115/220V). Wiring is inside my garage and 8 gauge wires go
through conduit. San Francisco code requires 4 poles for 220V appliances
so I am using four wired inside conduit.
My question is how to wire switch and motor to four wires.
Motor wiring has 6 wires but instruction says that 3 wires go to one
pole and 3 other to another. What about ground and neutral?

Is there any good on line DIY manual for this kind of work.

4 poles would go to a dryer outlet, which has L1, L2, N, G

L1: first 220V line
L2: second 220V line
N: neutral -- voltage L1-N or L2-N is 120V
G: ground

I would never go to the expense of running 4 wires when you only need 3.
Nor do
I believe that San Francisco code actually requires it, but there are
amazing
things in California laws. Your motor will use L1, L2 and G, of course.

GWE

Although it might be a good idea to run the N for future consideration.
It can be left unused in the box.

Harold

Alex wrote:

I am pulling a new 220V line from a power box for my new belt grinder
(20Amp 115/220V). Wiring is inside my garage and 8 gauge wires go
through conduit. San Francisco code requires 4 poles for 220V appliances
so I am using four wired inside conduit.
My question is how to wire switch and motor to four wires.
Motor wiring has 6 wires but instruction says that 3 wires go to one
pole and 3 other to another. What about ground and neutral?

Is there any good on line DIY manual for this kind of work.

BTW I am going to have a lichened electrician to inspect my work before
attempting to connect.

Thanks,
Alex

I'm assuming this is a single phase motor with a centrifugal starter
switch and possibly a start capacitor.

The motor should have a nameplate or label on it showing how those 6
wires get connected when used on 220V and 115V, make sure you follow the
correct one for 230 volts.

If there's no diagram, but the leads are labeled, the following general
instructions, which I cribbed from a newsgroup a while ago may help, but
may also confuse:

************************

First identify the leads coming out of the motor. They should have
numbers on the leads like T1, T2, etc. A single phase dual voltage
reversible motor should have: T1, T2, T3, T4, T5, and T8. They a T1,
T2, T3, T4 = Run winding leads, T5, T8 = Start winding leads. For 115V
operation, the leads should be wired: T1 + T3 = L1 (Line input) T2 + T4
= L2 (Line input) T5 and T8 are wired to L1 and L2 and to reverse the
motor, you reverse T5 and T8 with respect to L1 and L2 For 230V
operation, the leads should be wired: T1 = L1, T4 = L2, T2 = T3 = T5
(just wire nut these three together.) T8 = L1 or L2 (depending on the
motor rotation you require.)

************************

L1 and L2 are of course the two "hot" leads in the conduit, and you
should install a double pole switch rated for the horsepower of the
motor you're using.

The neutral lead in the conduit won't connect to anything if it's only
the motor that's being powered, just cap it off. If the circuit is also
going to power a 115V load on the machine, like a work lamp, then the
neutral will be required for the "return lead" of the work lamp and the
"line side" of the work lamp switch will connect to either L1 or L2,
take your pick.

The ground lead in the conduit will connect to the frame of the motor.

Since you are calling in an electrician anyway, why not have him eyeball
the motor connections "just in case".

YMMV,

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented."

I suspect - the instrument (machine) runs on 220v and the lamps on it at 120
and the G line to the frame for safety.
The N is used as shown below - Leg (n) to N = 120v.

I think this is done (spec) to protect people like us - so we have 220 and 120 at the plug
or at the drop point. Remember - the specs drive Electricians who bid on jobs
and builders who cheap out when possible.

Martin

Martin
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder



Grant Erwin wrote:
Alex wrote:

I am pulling a new 220V line from a power box for my new belt grinder
(20Amp 115/220V). Wiring is inside my garage and 8 gauge wires go
through conduit. San Francisco code requires 4 poles for 220V
appliances so I am using four wired inside conduit.
My question is how to wire switch and motor to four wires.
Motor wiring has 6 wires but instruction says that 3 wires go to one
pole and 3 other to another. What about ground and neutral?

Is there any good on line DIY manual for this kind of work.


4 poles would go to a dryer outlet, which has L1, L2, N, G

L1: first 220V line
L2: second 220V line
N: neutral -- voltage L1-N or L2-N is 120V
G: ground

I would never go to the expense of running 4 wires when you only need 3.
Nor do I believe that San Francisco code actually requires it, but there
are amazing things in California laws. Your motor will use L1, L2 and G,
of course.

GWE

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http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

I would ALWAYS put in the full 4 wires especially when you are talking
about NM or UF cable. The cost is minimal, the labor and access is
usually a bummer. If you are pulling it though conduit, I might let it
ride for a while.

In the lab at school we have a 200 amp 3 phase bus duct, they cheaped
out when building the place, ran 3 hots and a ground with no neutral. In
order to put the neutral in we would have to pull all 4 wires out, add
the neutral, pull all 5 back in. Dumb.

Grant Erwin wrote:

Alex wrote:

I am pulling a new 220V line from a power box for my new belt grinder
(20Amp 115/220V). Wiring is inside my garage and 8 gauge wires go
through conduit. San Francisco code requires 4 poles for 220V
appliances so I am using four wired inside conduit.
My question is how to wire switch and motor to four wires.
Motor wiring has 6 wires but instruction says that 3 wires go to one
pole and 3 other to another. What about ground and neutral?

Is there any good on line DIY manual for this kind of work.


4 poles would go to a dryer outlet, which has L1, L2, N, G

L1: first 220V line
L2: second 220V line
N: neutral -- voltage L1-N or L2-N is 120V
G: ground

I would never go to the expense of running 4 wires when you only need 3.
Nor do I believe that San Francisco code actually requires it, but there
are amazing things in California laws. Your motor will use L1, L2 and G,
of course.

GWE

Jeff,

thanks. Now the picture is much clearer for me.

Alex

Jeff Wisnia wrote:
Alex wrote:

I am pulling a new 220V line from a power box for my new belt grinder
(20Amp 115/220V). Wiring is inside my garage and 8 gauge wires go
through conduit. San Francisco code requires 4 poles for 220V
appliances so I am using four wired inside conduit.
My question is how to wire switch and motor to four wires.
Motor wiring has 6 wires but instruction says that 3 wires go to one
pole and 3 other to another. What about ground and neutral?

Is there any good on line DIY manual for this kind of work.

BTW I am going to have a lichened electrician to inspect my work
before attempting to connect.

Thanks,
Alex


I'm assuming this is a single phase motor with a centrifugal starter
switch and possibly a start capacitor.

The motor should have a nameplate or label on it showing how those 6
wires get connected when used on 220V and 115V, make sure you follow the
correct one for 230 volts.

If there's no diagram, but the leads are labeled, the following general
instructions, which I cribbed from a newsgroup a while ago may help, but
may also confuse:

************************

First identify the leads coming out of the motor. They should have
numbers on the leads like T1, T2, etc. A single phase dual voltage
reversible motor should have: T1, T2, T3, T4, T5, and T8. They a T1,
T2, T3, T4 = Run winding leads, T5, T8 = Start winding leads. For 115V
operation, the leads should be wired: T1 + T3 = L1 (Line input) T2 + T4
= L2 (Line input) T5 and T8 are wired to L1 and L2 and to reverse the
motor, you reverse T5 and T8 with respect to L1 and L2 For 230V
operation, the leads should be wired: T1 = L1, T4 = L2, T2 = T3 = T5
(just wire nut these three together.) T8 = L1 or L2 (depending on the
motor rotation you require.)

************************

L1 and L2 are of course the two "hot" leads in the conduit, and you
should install a double pole switch rated for the horsepower of the
motor you're using.

The neutral lead in the conduit won't connect to anything if it's only
the motor that's being powered, just cap it off. If the circuit is also
going to power a 115V load on the machine, like a work lamp, then the
neutral will be required for the "return lead" of the work lamp and the
"line side" of the work lamp switch will connect to either L1 or L2,
take your pick.

The ground lead in the conduit will connect to the frame of the motor.

Since you are calling in an electrician anyway, why not have him eyeball
the motor connections "just in case".

YMMV,

Jeff

On Mon, 12 Sep 2005 14:51:14 GMT, RoyJ wrote:

I would ALWAYS put in the full 4 wires especially when you are talking
about NM or UF cable. The cost is minimal, the labor and access is
usually a bummer. If you are pulling it though conduit, I might let it
ride for a while.

In the lab at school we have a 200 amp 3 phase bus duct, they cheaped
out when building the place, ran 3 hots and a ground with no neutral. In
order to put the neutral in we would have to pull all 4 wires out, add
the neutral, pull all 5 back in. Dumb.

Grant Erwin wrote:

Alex wrote:

I am pulling a new 220V line from a power box for my new belt grinder
(20Amp 115/220V). Wiring is inside my garage and 8 gauge wires go
through conduit. San Francisco code requires 4 poles for 220V
appliances so I am using four wired inside conduit.
My question is how to wire switch and motor to four wires.
Motor wiring has 6 wires but instruction says that 3 wires go to one
pole and 3 other to another. What about ground and neutral?

Is there any good on line DIY manual for this kind of work.


4 poles would go to a dryer outlet, which has L1, L2, N, G

L1: first 220V line
L2: second 220V line
N: neutral -- voltage L1-N or L2-N is 120V
G: ground

I would never go to the expense of running 4 wires when you only need 3.
Nor do I believe that San Francisco code actually requires it, but there
are amazing things in California laws. Your motor will use L1, L2 and G,
of course.

GWE
Because the grinder uses 110 volts for the light, the code WILL
require 4 wires. Running the light from either L1 or L2 to ground will
work - but it will NOT meet code - in California or in Canada.